Logan manual transmission. Manual transmission Logan gearshift

27.09.2019

Transmission: 1 - shaft of the side gear of the differential; 2 - clutch housing; 3 - input shaft; 4 - dirt cover; 5 - gear shift mechanism; 6 - fork of the clutch release drive; 7 - holder of wire harnesses; 8 - bracket for the cable sheath of the clutch release drive; 9 - back cover; 10 - breather hose fitting; 11 - hole for the vehicle speed sensor; 12 - body of the inner hinge of the left wheel drive; 13 - reverse light switch; 14 - gearbox housing; 15 - oil filler plug

The gearbox housing consists of three parts: the clutch housing, the gearbox housing and the gearbox housing rear cover. The clutch housing and gearbox housing are cast from aluminum alloy, and the rear cover is stamped from steel. The clutch housing is attached to the gearbox housing with screws, between them there is a gasoline-oil-resistant sealant-gasket. The rear cover is attached to the gearbox housing with three bolts.

In the manufacture of Renault Logan, the gearbox is harnessed transmission oil, which is designed for the entire life of the car. The oil level in the gearbox should be at the level of the lower edge of the filler hole. Oil sump volume 3.1 l.

The filler hole is located in the gearbox housing, in front of the vehicle. The plastic filler plug is designed so that it can be unscrewed and wrapped by hand, without tools. The cork is sealed with a rubber gasket. The drain hole is located on the bottom of the gearbox housing. The drain plug has a copper washer.

Gearbox oil filled in at the factory: Elf Tranself TRX 75W80, Elf Tranself TRJ 75W80, Elf Tranself TRT 75W80, Elf Tranself TRP 75W80

Manual transmission identification

One of two manual transmissions can be installed on Renault Logan: JH1 or JH3.
These gearboxes are almost the same and differ only in the size of the clutch housings.

The location of identification numbers at the checkpoint can be in two versions:

Previously, plates were installed, the location of which is shown in the figure.

1 - Identification plate for manual transmission: A - Type of manual transmission; B-Digital code for manual transmission; S-Serial number; D - Manufacturer.

Gearboxes are now stamped with an identification number

The arrow shows the place of the stamp on the gearbox: 1 - gearbox type; 2 - modification of the gearbox; 3 - serial number of the gearbox; 4 - manufacturer's code

Gear ratios

Gearbox control mechanism

Gearbox control mechanism: 1 - bushing; 2 - lever lock; 3 - gear lever; 4 - lever handle; 5 - mechanism body

Gearbox control rod: 1 - coupling bolt; 2 - clamp; 3 - nut; 4 - thrust; 5 - thrust finger

Transmission malfunctions

Problems when shifting gears

Cannot shift into gear or lever does not return to original position

Clutch does not disengage (see clutch faults).

Selector forks are deformed or jammed. This is often caused by insufficient lubrication. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

The gears are stuck on the shaft. This is most commonly caused by a lack of lubrication or excessive wear on the gearbox bearings and bushings. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

The gear selector is stuck. This is caused by lack of lubrication or excessive wear.

The shift lever is damaged. The splines have been torn off the lever or shaft, which may be caused by loosening of the lever. Replace any damaged components.

Lever knocks out of gear

The selector fork is worn out. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

The gear grooves are worn out. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

Gear cams or cam slots are worn or damaged. The gears need to be checked and replaced. Do not attempt to service damaged parts.

Noise during gearbox operation

The bearings are worn out. Also note that the shafts may be worn. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

Gears are worn or teeth are chipped.

Metal chips wedged between gear teeth. Most likely, these are fragments of chipped components of the clutch, gears or gear selection mechanism that got into the gears. This can cause premature bearing damage.

The engine oil level is too low. This may cause howling sounds. It will also affect engine power and clutch operation.

The Logan manual transmission is the most traditional for a front-wheel drive car. There are two types of boxes: with a 1.4L engine, JH1 is used, with a 1.6L engine, JH3 is used. By design, both gearboxes are identical and differ only in the size of the clutch housing.

The gear ratios of both gearboxes are the same. The box marking is on the bottom of the crankcase. By design, the boxes are two-shaft, with five forward gears and one reverse gear. They are structurally integrated with the differential and final drive. All gears have synchronizers. True, until mid-2007, there was a single synchronizer in 1st gear. This led to the fact that it was difficult, and sometimes impossible, without re-gassing, to turn on the first gear when switching. Later, the factory made changes to the gearbox, they began to install a double synchronizer in first gear (they were originally on the rest), and the problem with turning on the first one on the go was gone.

The design of the box is very simple. The input shaft is made as a block of driving gears, which are in constant engagement with the driven gears of all forward gears. The gears of all forward gears are helical, and the reverse gears are spur gears. Gears of 1-4 gears are made integral with the input shaft, the gear of the fifth gear rotates freely on the shaft. A fifth gear synchronizer is installed at the rear end of the input shaft. The output shaft is hollow, oil is supplied through it under the driven gears. The driven gears and synchronizers of 1-2 and 3-4 gears are located on the shaft. The fifth gear is mounted on the shaft with splines. On the side of the clutch housing, the bearing of the secondary shaft is roller, and on the side of the cover, it is ball bearing.

In general, the box for cars of the budget segment is very good. It is distinguished by clarity when turned on, a competent gear selection mechanism. You don’t need to “search” for speed, apply a lot of effort to the lever too. Compared to the same VAZ manual transmission boxes, Logan is just heaven and earth.

However, she also has a problem - the inclusion of reverse gear. For many logan drivers, it turns on with a rattle. This is not a malfunction, but a design feature due to the fact that the reverse gear has only a single synchronizer. To avoid rattle, you can follow some simple tips. Firstly, turn on the reverse speed only when the car is completely stopped. Secondly, fully depress the clutch pedal. Thirdly, turn on the reverse gear through one of the front ones.

The gear ratios of the Logan boxes are well chosen and, in principle, are average for cars of this class. The only exception is 4th gear, which is a little shorter than usual. To achieve a speed of 60 km / h (according to the speedometer) in 4th gear, you need to develop 2150 rpm. The gear ratio of 5 speeds is optimally matched, taking into account both engine power and fuel efficiency. At 3000 rpm (maximum torque of an 8-valve engine), the speed on the speedometer is 110 km / h (the navigator shows a little more than 100 km / h) - which is both economical and does not strongly contradict the traffic rules.

The Logan manual transmission does not have any common problems, the resulting breakdowns are individual and occur in isolated cases. Although, if you carefully study the Logan Club forum, you can find such cases. They can be associated both with the features of operation, and with the usual technical marriage. In general, according to experts, the average Logan box during normal operation can go up to 300 thousand kilometers without any problems.

The issue of oil is interesting. According to the official regulations, the oil in the box is filled for the entire period of operation, but mechanics still recommend changing it every 80-90 thousand kilometers, this will extend the life of the unit. In some cases, changing the oil helps to solve problems associated with difficulty in choosing gears. The required volume of the transmission is 3.3 liters. Changing the oil in the Logan gearbox is a simple matter. There is a drain hole (under the "8 square") and a separate filler neck. You need to pour it until it pours back out of it.

It is difficult to check the amount of oil in the box - there is no dipstick. It can only be determined by the drain / fill method, therefore it will be useful to regularly monitor possible oil leaks on the box. There may be several sources of leakage, but most often it is a left-hand drive. The design feature is such that its internal CV joint is lubricated with oil from the box. And if there are any problems, the oil goes away.
Usually the lack of oil is manifested by the rumble of the box when driving. First in 5th gear, and then in all the others. If you notice an oil leak in time and fix it, you can do without consequences. But prolonged operation of the box without oil will almost inevitably lead to its breakdown.

Many newcomers who have just bought Logan pay attention to the strange rattling of the car at idle. If you squeeze the clutch pedal, then the rattling disappears, so many tend to blame the gearbox for this. In fact, rattling is a feature of the native release bearing and has nothing to do with the box. The rattling does not bear any consequences either for the clutch or for the box. If you happen to change the clutch, then a new kit will fix this problem.

The material was written for Logan-News magazine.

The transmission of any car requires careful maintenance by its owner. Premature wear is the main sign of improper attitude to technology. Many Renault Logan owners want to prevent their car's transmission from premature wear. It is on this topic that we will talk in our article.

Types of gearboxes

At Renault Logan, the manufacturer installs several transmission options at the request of the customer. All types of these boxes are very reliable solutions, as well as easy-to-use units.

The following were installed on Renault Logan:

classic ,
automatic transmission.

The maintenance of these structures falls entirely on the shoulders of the owner, however, such an operation does not seem to be a difficult task.

In order to undergo maintenance on time, you need to know the timing and clutch mechanisms.

This is exactly what will be discussed.

Service

In order to properly maintain the gearbox, the following rules and regulations for the operation of this unit must be observed. There are several videos on this topic.

During the operation of the gearbox, excess air flows are formed, which must be vented from the body of the device. The ventilation shaft for this is a breather.

This part of the car should always be kept clean and monitored. If this is not done, they will not withstand the load and will leak.

, it is also necessary to change every 60 thousand kilometers.

Since the rubbing elements of the manual transmission give wear, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the gearbox, at the bottom of which there is a magnet that collects chips onto itself. In the process of changing the oil, it also needs to be cleaned.

Automatic transmission requires more careful control by the owner.

An oil change should be made every 40 thousand kilometers, since the machine has many rubbing parts that give increased wear. It is better to leave the work on disassembling and assembling the machine to a specialized workshop.

To extend the life of the machine, you should choose the original Renault oil.

The robot, like the machine, requires increased attention. Change the oil and assemble the unit in the same way. The breather in the robot also needs to be monitored for cleanliness, since the operation scheme is similar to the Renault Logan manual gearbox.

If you follow all the regulations, these units will last a very long time.

Conclusion

As we found out, the maintenance of the machine and the mechanics of Renault Logan differ from each other, but subject to the timeliness of maintenance, the machine is not inferior to its counterparts.

In the case when it is carried out on this topic, you can find a lot of videos to visually verify the material you read.

Our advice is this: carry out maintenance and replacement of the necessary parts of the gearbox in time, only in this case the unit will serve you for a long time.

Transmission:
1 - shaft of the side gear of the differential;
2 - clutch housing;
3 - input shaft;
4 - dirt cover; 5 - gear shift mechanism;
6 - fork of the clutch release drive;
7 - holder of wire harnesses;
8 - bracket for the cable sheath of the clutch release drive;
9 - back cover;
10 - breather hose fitting;
11 - hole for the vehicle speed sensor;
12 - body of the inner hinge of the left wheel drive;
13 - reverse light switch;
14 - gearbox housing;
15 - oil filler plug

Two types of manual transmissions are installed on Renault Logan cars: with a 1.4 liter engine - JH1, with a 1.6 liter engine - JH3. The marking is on the bottom of the gearbox housing. By design, both gearboxes are identical and differ only in the size of the clutch housing. The gear ratios of both gearboxes are the same.
Gearbox - two-shaft, with five forward gears and one reverse gear, with synchronizers in all forward gears. It is structurally integrated with the differential and final drive.
The gearbox housing consists of three parts: the clutch housing, the gearbox housing and the rear gearbox housing cover. The clutch housing and gearbox housing are cast aluminum alloy, and the back cover is steel stamped. The clutch housing is attached to the gearbox housing with screws. When assembling, a gasoline-oil-resistant sealant-gasket is applied between them. The back cover is attached to the crankcase with three bolts.
The input shaft is made as a block of driving gears, which are in constant engagement with the driven gears of all forward gears. The gears of all forward gears are helical, and the reverse gears are spur gears. Gears of 1-4 gears are made integral with the input shaft, the gear of the fifth gear rotates freely on the shaft. A fifth gear synchronizer is installed at the rear end of the input shaft. The output shaft is hollow, oil is supplied through it under the driven gears. The driven gears and synchronizers of 1-2 and 3-4 gears are located on the shaft. The fifth gear is mounted on the shaft with splines. On the side of the clutch housing, the bearing of the secondary shaft is roller, and on the side of the cover, it is ball bearing. An oil sump is located under the roller bearing of the secondary shaft, directing the flow of oil into the shaft. All parts mounted on the secondary shaft are pulled together in a package with a bolt screwed into the end of the shaft from the side of the cover.
The final drive gear is pressed onto the differential box. Behind the driven gear, a tapered roller bearing is installed on the differential box. Between the driven gear and the bearing, an adjusting ring is installed, the selection of the thickness of which regulates the preload in the differential bearings.
On the other (right) side, the differential box is equipped with a vehicle speed sensor drive gear and a second tapered roller bearing.
The differential box has two satellites and two side gears. The satellites are mounted on an axle fixed in the differential box.
The right semi-axial gear of the differential is made integral with the splined shaft, on which the inner hinge of the right wheel drive is put on. An oil seal pressed into the socket of the clutch housing runs along the cylindrical surface of the shaft. The left semi-axial gear is made on the body of the inner hinge of the left wheel drive, and the body is installed in the gearbox socket and secured in it with a retaining ring. To avoid oil leakage from the gearbox, the connection of the inner joint of the left wheel drive with the gearbox housing is sealed with a rubber boot, which is attached to the gearbox housing using a metal holder. The other side of the cover is attached to the outer ring of the needle bearing mounted on the left wheel drive shaft. The needle bearing is made integral with the oil seal, which prevents oil leakage from the gearbox along the wheel drive shaft.
To prevent water ingress and reduce dust ingress into the gearbox cavity, its breather is placed in the upper part of the engine compartment. The breather is connected by a rubber hose to the plastic fitting of the gearbox.

control mechanism:
1 - bushing;
2 - lever lock;
3 - gear lever;
4 - lever handle;
5 - mechanism body

control rod:
1 - coupling bolt;
2 - clamp;
3 - nut;
4 - thrust;
5 - thrust finger

The gearbox control drive consists of a control mechanism, a control rod and a gear change mechanism. A ball joint is installed on the gear lever, which is inserted into the plastic housing of the control mechanism and secured with a retainer. A sleeve is welded to the lower end of the lever, to which the control rod is attached. The other end of the control rod is connected to the gearshift mechanism mounted on the gearbox.
The gearbox is factory-filled with gear oil designed to last the life of the vehicle. The oil level in the gearbox should be at the level of the lower edge of the filler hole. The filler hole is located in the gearbox housing, in front of the vehicle. The plastic filler plug is made in such a way that it can be unscrewed and wrapped by hand, without the use of any tool. The cork is sealed with a rubber ring. The drain hole is located on the bottom of the gearbox housing. The drain plug is sealed with a copper washer.

But in the face of growing demand from urban dwellers, the Romanian brand has finally decided to integrate it into its offer. To offer a transmission in line with their low cost philosophy, the engineers opted for a single clutch transmission.

Sequential manual control

The advantage of this solution is that it is very affordable. Thus, a city car is available from 000 euros and a break from 0 rubles, which has never been seen in the respective categories. By breaking up the maneuver, the feeling that the car starts to slow down before shifting to the top gear is reduced. To save money, the lever located on the center console does not have a parking position, but there is a parking brake.

By tilting the lever to the left, we have, if necessary, sequential manual control that works in a physiological sense. Operation of the box was more liquid on the road than in the city. Initially driving on the gas network, known shocks remain frequent. A good point, on the other hand, is for the creep mode, which facilitates parking maneuvers, and the other for starting on a hill with no recoil on slopes up to 4%.

Automatic transmissions are an increasing share of new car sales, especially in developed countries. One way or another, the convenience of automation is starting to win over more and more people, and due to the growing congestion in cities every day, someone decides to spend some money on their new car, but it does not have a clutch. And how does this question stand in relation to low-budget cars? There is an option or at least up to Dacia. It is true that this is not an absolute automatic, but simply a gearbox in which the pedal function carries a robot and three electric motors and a computer, but in any case it is a great convenience.

This is a simple mechanical gearbox, but the clutch is equipped with a computer and electric motors. When it is necessary to change gear to a lower or higher gear, the latter will take care of it instead of the driver. This occurs under certain conditions such as engine speed, instantaneous vehicle speed, and throttle position.

What are the types of transmission units?

The same is achieved with sudden braking or deceleration. The function is easily achieved, as with an automatic transmission, when the lever is moved to the M position, then the lever is pushed forward or backward to a higher or lower gear, and now the driver can fully use the engine and shift to the next gear at much higher speeds than computer. And when we feed some gas naturally it's even faster. We exit the parking lot, turn into a boulevard, give us a little more gas to avoid one of the heavy ones in the back and quickly catch up and wait for the robot to shift into our second gear.

Gearbox oil filled in at the factory: Elf Tranself TRX 75W80, Elf Tranself TRJ 75W80, Elf Tranself TRT 75W80, Elf Tranself TRP 75W80

Manual transmission identification

One of two manual transmissions can be installed on Renault Logan: JH1 or JH3.
These gearboxes are almost the same and differ only in the size of the clutch housings.

The location of identification numbers at the checkpoint can be in two versions:

Lever knocks out of gear

Which, in the current situation is a very light breeze, the initial accelerator pedal to the bottom, the gasoline engine is normal. However, gear shifting does not occur immediately, but there is a delay. Shifting directly up and up is also done with a soft pause before the clutch "sticks" again. But this opinion is subjective, and another may think differently. At the same time, I liked that when the throttle came to an end, this piloted gearbox worked like a real automatic again.

If a person is not used to the "habits" of the box, he must take into account a longer pause when switching, if he, for example, overtakes the TIR, so as not to find himself in a difficult situation when the car is already on the way. But after a certain number of kilometers, especially urban ones, they are already in place, they get used to it and know perfectly well what to expect.

Previously, plates were installed, the location of which is shown in the figure.

1 - Identification plate for manual transmission: A - Type of manual transmission; B-Digital code for manual transmission; S-Serial number; D - Manufacturer.

Gearboxes are now stamped with an identification number

And to a certain extent, how to counter them. A robotic gearbox cannot be called expensive. Which, against the backdrop of a minimum of double the automated price of some of the competitors, who are also representatives of the upper classes of cars, is cheap. In contrast to this amount, one gets a brand new car that will not create the inconvenience of pushing the clutch hundreds or thousands of times, especially when driving around the city. What we do not have in our country.

Perhaps in China, a local brand offers similar boxes at similar prices, but not in Europe. Against the quantity mentioned, it provides the comfort of not having a third pedal in the car, which is what people are looking for more and more, also in Bulgaria. At the same time, I can say that the comments, which are not so important against the background of the pros and prices, are by no means more than the comments made in the mid-1990s, equipped with a machine gun. The gears of the time were far from the perfection that is now available, especially from luxury brands.

The arrow shows the place of the stamp on the gearbox: 1 - gearbox type; 2 - modification of the gearbox; 3 - serial number of the gearbox; 4 - manufacturer's code

Gear ratios

Gearbox control mechanism

And for the Romanian brand, we are talking about a new car in warranty. And more and more people in Bulgaria are beginning to give preference to the latter. The condition, however, is to get used to the "character" of the robotic transmission before. The change occurred mainly in the offer of seats.

The internal solution is focused on functionality, without overly complex solutions.:: It doesn't bother, but it doesn't bother. Despite the seemingly simple body structure, the designers have not spared the amount and arrangement of abrasives around the drive unit.::In the direction of the cab, the engine sound sounds pleasant and does not bother the crew at higher rpm.::Three battles can travel safely. For the first 200 km flights, it was clear to us that we didn't need a lot of fuel to propel ourselves.

Gearbox control mechanism

Gearbox control mechanism: 1 - bushing; 2 - lever lock; 3 - gear lever; 4 - lever handle; 5 - mechanism body

Gearbox control rod: 1 - coupling bolt; 2 - clamp; 3 - nut; 4 - thrust; 5 - thrust finger

The formation reserve reservoir turned on at 850 km. In practice, we missed the 135Nm paperback a bit and a fully loaded car, we had to think twice about how and when we would be ahead of us. If both seats are occupied, the height of the average adult will not burden the lack of space or the second.

The luggage compartment volume of 573 liters looks at first glance a little more, since its floor has a full supply. The excitement, however, disappears almost instantly after the floor has been raised, which has been warped in the new car, and the glued carpet has come loose from the cardboard.

Transmission malfunctions

Problems when shifting gears

Cannot shift into gear or lever does not return to original position

Clutch does not disengage (see clutch faults).

Selector forks are deformed or jammed. This is often caused by insufficient lubrication. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

Only for such a good trunk, the designers did not underestimate such a key element. The advantage is a higher height without any elements that could be dangerous on the chassis. Logan on an unstable track had no problems and we didn't have to be too careful as we went.

The chassis is simple and works well. He quickly becomes hot and heals his weight for some time in advance. However, when the car is fully occupied, the gas pedal must be lowered. We don't like taking apart the luggage compartment floor, it's not strong enough and after a few months of use it will need to be repaired or replaced. The car is good for small entrepreneurs or for a mindless family with plenty of space. Under certain conditions, you can get a contract for 5 years or 100 km, whichever comes first.

The gears are stuck on the shaft. This is most commonly caused by a lack of lubrication or excessive wear on the gearbox bearings and bushings. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

The gear selector is stuck. This is caused by lack of lubrication or excessive wear.

The shift lever is damaged. The splines have been torn off the lever or shaft, which may be caused by loosening of the lever. Replace any damaged components.

Lever knocks out of gear

The selector fork is worn out. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

The gear grooves are worn out. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

Gear cams or cam slots are worn or damaged. The gears need to be checked and replaced. Do not attempt to service damaged parts.

Noise during gearbox operation

The bearings are worn out. Also note that the shafts may be worn. Perform a gearbox overhaul.

Gears are worn or teeth are chipped.

The engine oil level is too low. This may cause howling sounds. It will also affect engine power and clutch operation.

It is possible in more detail what it means to throw the clutch, press the clutch, turn on the gear, and immediately release the clutch pedal completely and add a little gas, do not even let go, but quit, i.e. take your foot off the pedal. ???
Almost everything is correct.
1. I do not let go "immediately" - but at the right moment when I need to move.
2. By the time the gas is released, it should be slightly submerged so that the speed rises to 2000 rpm. Approximately, of course - when starting off, there is no time to look at the tachometer, besides, it is very inertial and late with readings. You need to hear the motor well and have an idea of the tone at this speed. By the way - this technique of mine does not work well on megane 2, since the motor is almost inaudible on it.
3. "To drop the clutch" means - not to allow the car to start on the slipping of the clutch discs, but to transfer the rotation to the wheels so quickly that the inertia of the flywheel helps to break the wheels into slipping - this is a short thrust impulse that the motor does not need to develop and, accordingly, you do not need to give a lot gasoline and spin the engine up to maximum torque to move the WHOLE WEIGHT of the VEHICLE from a stationary state.
That is - the most difficult moment of shifting from a state of rest - is taken over not by the clutch and not by the engine - but by the rubber and the flywheel.
Throwing the clutch does not mean a blow to the transmission - slippage of the clutch discs still exists, but its time is reduced by an order of magnitude. Approximately the same amount reduces clutch wear. We press the pedal from pressing to completely releasing it at the same speed - with which we usually shift our foot from the brake to the gas. That is about half a second.
4. If everything is done correctly, the engine will not stall, but will break the wheels into slip. As soon as he does this - he can no longer stall - as his speed will rise to those at which he provides sufficient torque.

I just wanted to start off sharply a couple of times, I raise the clutch pedal when I feel that the car is starting to move, I add gas a little while I stop releasing the clutch when the car starts off a little, I completely throw the clutch and gas to the floor. Duck, if you don’t rush, the car starts off smoothly, if you release the clutch a little faster, it starts to twitch as if it wants to stall, it twitches a couple of times and starts picking up speed. maybe it's because the mileage is only 1600km, maybe it's still better not to do such experiments up to 3000km.
First of all - all of the above applies only to a run-in car! With a mileage of over 5000 km!
Here you need to understand that there are only two options - either a throw or smoothly. Throw - means on the inertia of the flywheel.
But the inertia of the flywheel is very small compared to the mass of the car - and only works for a short moment of time. Therefore, if you do it a little smoother, you can’t increase the smoothness gradually. As soon as the flywheel inertia is lost, it is necessary that the engine thrust correspond to that required for starting.
Here the problem is this - when the clutch closes quickly, but not fast enough to use the energy of the flywheel - the engine speed drops faster than the speed of rotation of the wheels increases. And this means that the engine is rapidly losing traction! Even if the gas to the floor at this moment - but the speed is already below 1000 rpm and even below idle (600-750 rpm) - no gas to the floor will help, the engine no longer pulls at these speeds. Therefore, the main principle is not to let the speed fall below 1500 rpm. When throwing the clutch, when the wheels turned sharply - the revolutions do not have time to fall purely physically - therefore - without noise and dust, without a roar, almost inaudibly - we start off sharply, immediately gas to the floor (avoiding a slippage AFTER starting off) and confidently drive ahead flow.

What does cutoff mean? how does this cut-off occur, how do you know that it was a cut-off, explain? :)
Cutoff is a forced restriction of the engine speed in order to prevent the destruction of the motor due to exceeding the permissible operating modes. You can find out by stopping acceleration in any gear (except for the fifth%), regardless of the fact that the gas pedal is pressed, and the car twitching due to the intermittent operation of the cut-off mode.
For eight-valve logan / sander, the limit is set to a frequency of 6000 rpm, for a 16-valve valve, if I'm not mistaken, at 6500. In Megan, the same 16-valve valve is limited to 7000 rpm and it produces a maximum of 115 hp.
The engine cut-off frequency can be exceeded on engine braking - for example, accelerating in fourth gear to 160 km / h and switching to third. The engine will not die at the same time - the developers have provided such a margin for excess (in our case, apparently up to 8000 rpm) - provided that it is not under thrust, but without fuel supply. But I don't recommend doing that. The general rule of downshifting is: 4th - at 160 or less, 3rd - 120 or less, 2nd - 80 or less, 1st - not at all on the go. First gear is needed for starting.

Many are afraid to turn the motor above 4000 rpm, purely physically fearing that the motor will become ill. Not only will it not become bad - for the motor it is periodically required to work in different modes IN THE WHOLE ESTIMATED RPM RANGE of the motor! Only under these conditions, engine wear will be minimal - since the calculation of wear is based on its uniformity for different parts, and this happens only when the engine is running in all modes. Otherwise, it will turn out that one thing wears out more, and the other is weaker - and the resulting misalignment upsets the balance inside the motor - either temperature, or lubrication, or strength.

For those who are very afraid of noise, I repeat - the loudest noise from renoshny motors is in the middle of the rev range, that is, about 3500-4000 rpm. The higher it gets quieter. This is how the design is designed.