Contact ignition system. Contact ignition system Interrupter ignition distributor VAZ 2106

Contact ignition system. Contact ignition system Interrupter ignition distributor VAZ 2106

28.09.2019

The VAZ-2106 distributor is installed on the left side of the engine, the drive comes from the oil pump gear. This device is designed to switch the high voltage generated by the ignition coil. During the release of the "sixes", the distributors have changed significantly - they have evolved from contact to non-contact. The latest VAZ-2106 cars, which until 2006 were produced on the IZH-Auto conveyors, have already been equipped with injection systems. They do not have a distributor, its functions are completely transferred to the electronic "brain".

What is a distributor

This is a device that allows you to properly distribute high voltage across the spark plug electrodes. The design of the entire system consists of the following elements:

  1. Power source - battery and generator.
  2. Low voltage wiring.
  3. Ignition coil.
  4. Armored wires (designed for high voltage transmission).
  5. Distributor (distributor) with contact group or Hall sensor. The VAZ-2106 distributor cover is necessary for high voltage switching.
  6. Switch (in case of contactless system).
  7. Capacitor - necessary to get rid of the variable component in the circuit.

The VAZ-2106 distributor has a relatively simple design, but it must be serviced and replaced in a timely manner.

Contact systems

The oldest and most imperfect designs, despite this, a lot of cars still use them. Even stores sell contact groups. One advantage can be identified from contact systems - low cost. Otherwise, they only have disadvantages:

  1. A contact breaker installed in the body of the VAZ-2106 distributor switches high voltage. As a result, the contacts often burn, and it is sometimes necessary to clean the device.
  2. The same contact breaker experiences heavy loads, friction. Therefore, the resource is limited by the quality of the metal used, the time of its wear.
  3. During operation, the gap between the contacts changes, and it affects the ignition timing - this is one of the most important parameters of the internal combustion engine.

Despite the simplicity, the reliability of the mechanisms is very low. The system requires careful care and timely maintenance.

Contact transistor designs

But if the function of the high-voltage switch is given to a device that is not so sensitive to voltage drops, you can get a fairly reliable device. This is what guided the engineers who designed the ignition systems. They left a mechanical contact breaker in the design, but high voltage was not switched with its help.

The contacts worked as a signal source, nothing more. This facilitated operation, made it possible to configure the node much less frequently. Similar designs of the VAZ-2106 ignition distributor did not take root, as they were quickly replaced by non-contact devices, and their reliability turned out to be much greater. Contact-transistor structures are subject to mechanical stress. Therefore, the resource is limited by the lifetime of the contacts.

Contactless ignition systems

These are the most common ignition systems used on carbureted engines. But they, too, were installed for a short time, as they were supplanted by injection injection systems. The principle of operation is the same as that of contact structures. But instead of a contact breaker, a Hall sensor and a switch are used. Of the rubbing components - only the axis of the distributor and the slider, which closes with the plates on the cover.

The reliability of this design is very high, since there is no need to constantly monitor the gap in the contact group, adjust the lead angle and the closed state. All work was carried out by electronic keys. Their resource is much higher than that of the contact group, there is no friction, wear. Usually, drivers who have installed a contactless ignition system forget about problems for a long time. But there are also breakdowns in such a reliable design.

Non-contact system faults

Breakdowns of such structures are rare. Before giving a final verdict that any component of the ignition system has failed, it is necessary to carefully check the engine. Very often, breakdowns in fuel supply systems, ignition, electrical equipment are similar in symptoms. Most common breakdowns:

  1. Switch failure. In this case, the spark on the electrodes of the candles completely disappears. The engine cannot be started.
  2. The Hall sensor in case of failure ceases to supply a control signal to the switch.
  3. Clogging of the Hall sensor leads to the fact that the supply of the control signal is disturbed. At times, the signal goes to the switch all the time, without stopping.
  4. A wire break causes the signal or power supply to the system to stop.
  5. The destruction of the ignition coil is characterized by the fact that the whole structure works, but there is no spark on the candles.
  6. The operation of the VAZ-2106 electronic distributor is completely dependent on the condition of the cover and slider. If there is carbon deposits or damage, this will lead to the inoperability of the entire system.

Breakdowns of the switch and the Hall sensor are a rarity. But still in the glove compartment it is desirable to carry devices for diagnosing these devices. With their help, you can not only check the status. In the event of a Hall sensor failure, such a diagnostic tool is installed on the block, and the car can continue to move.

BSZ installation kit

Various kits are available for sale, designed for mounting contactless ignition systems on carbureted cars. They consist of the following elements:

  1. Trambler with Hall sensor.
  2. Wire kit.
  3. Electronic type switch.
  4. fasteners.

High-voltage wires are used regular, there is no need to replace them. Another feature is that the system will not be able to work normally with an ignition coil that was previously used with a contact distributor. The reason is that in the case of using the BSZ, it is necessary that its output have a voltage of about 30 kV. And those devices that are used with contact systems are capable of developing no more than 25 kV.

Installation of contactless ignition

After installing the contactless VAZ-2106 distributor, the driver will completely get rid of the need to service the ignition system. The cost of a replacement kit will be no more than 1500 rubles. To convert, you need to follow a series of steps:

  1. Completely dismantle the old ignition system. Unscrew the distributor mount, remove the high-voltage wires. All excess wiring must be cut off.
  2. Install a new distributor.
  3. In a convenient place on the body, you need to install a switch. A mandatory requirement is that all wires must fit to it, and they must not be in a taut state.
  4. Screw the switch with metal screws.
  5. Connect the switch and distributor.
  6. Install high voltage wires.
  7. Lastly, the entire system is connected to the ignition switch. It is to the contact on which voltage appears when the ignition is turned on.

Setting the ignition timing

This is the only setting that needs to be done on the car. For this you will need:

  1. Turn the crankshaft and align the slot on the pulley with the middle mark on the engine block.
  2. Remove the distributor, remove its cover and install the slider opposite the contact that corresponds to the first cylinder.
  3. Install the distributor VAZ-2106. Fit the fastening nut.
  4. Start the engine. It will work unstably, so you need to make a “fine” adjustment - turn the distributor housing.

It is advisable to focus on the readings of the stroboscope. Only in this way will you be able to adjust the angle as accurately as possible. Here's how to set the distributor on the VAZ-2106 with your own hands. This can be done in an hour and a half, if all the necessary tools and fixtures are available.

Adjusting the ignition of the VAZ 2106 is a very important and useful procedure. Several things depend on it:

  • uninterrupted operation of the power unit;
  • easy start;
  • normal fuel consumption;
  • acceleration dynamics.

If the ignition is incorrectly adjusted, detonation may occur during operation of the power unit. And this, in turn, can lead to a major overhaul of the engine itself.

Interestingly, in practice, many drivers have their own views on how to set the ignition on the VAZ 2106. Some act as they say "by eye", and someone gets a strobe for this business. Some do not climb themselves and entrust this work to car service specialists.

In order to set up the ignition on a VAZ 2106 car with your own hands, use the instructions below.

Preliminary preparation

What you need to take with you to the garage:

  • key for candles;
  • key for 13;
  • voltmeter or ordinary twelve-volt light bulb.

Contact ignition is installed on the first cylinder.

Set the ignition timing according to the marks of different lengths that are applied to the timing cover.


Step-by-step instruction

You can install the ignition on the vase 2106 in 13 simple steps:


Now we can make sure that the ignition is set correctly. We start the engine and start driving. You need to accelerate to 45 kilometers per hour. Upon reaching the desired speed, turn on the fourth gear and sharply press the gas pedal. After a couple of seconds, the motor should start to detonate (pops will be heard, the “fingers” will start ringing). As soon as the car picks up a speed suitable for the selected gear, the detonation will disappear.

If the detonation has not disappeared, then you have made the adjustment incorrectly and received the so-called "early" ignition. So you need to slightly turn the distributor clockwise by half or one division. If detonation did not occur, then you have "late ignition" installed. In this case, turn the distributor counterclockwise by half or one division.

On all carburetor cars of Togliatti production, a breaker-distributor is installed in the ignition system, there is no electronic control unit in the electrical circuit. Although electronics are quite simple and reliable, breakdowns do occur in them.

Repair of the distributor on VAZ cars is necessary when its parts wear out, but if the breakdowns in the device are too serious, it is not advisable to repair the distributor, it is easier to replace it.

The breaker-distributor (PR) on rear-wheel drive VAZ cars is designed to interrupt the current in the primary circuit and distribute high voltage to the cylinders. On VAZ 2101-07 cars, there are contact and contactless distributors. Contact PR VAZ model 30.3706 consists of the following main parts:

A capacitor is installed on the contact distributor, which improves sparking, protects the contacts from premature burnout. In a non-contact system, interruption occurs due to the Hall sensor, which is installed instead of contacts.

The VAZ-classic distributors differ in shaft length - on 2101/21011 engines, a short-shaft breaker-distributor is installed, on 2103/2105/2106/21213 engines - with a long shaft.

PR on front-wheel drive VAZ cars with a carburetor engine is of a non-contact type, it is fundamentally arranged in the same way as the non-contact distributor on the Classic, but it has its own design features and looks completely different in appearance. The shaft of the VAZ-2108 distributor is short, it is driven directly from the camshaft and mounted on the cylinder head.

Distributor malfunctions

The distributor on VAZ cars may fail:

  • due to mechanical damage;
  • due to wear of parts;
  • due to moisture entering the device.

The main breakdowns in the breaker-distributor:

  • cracks appear in the cover of the distributor, or the contacts (central or side ones) burn in it;
  • the runner burns out;
  • the Hall sensor stops working;
  • shaft bearings wear out;
  • the contact of the sensor breaks;
  • the diaphragm of the vacuum ignition timing regulator breaks through.

In the contact distributor, the capacitor may also be faulty, or the contacts may burn.

You can identify a faulty distributor by the signs:

  • the engine does not develop speed;
  • the motor is troit, one or more cylinders may not work;
  • the operation of the internal combustion engine is accompanied by pops in the carburetor and muffler;
  • when you sharply press the gas pedal, detonation occurs, “fingers knock”;
  • The engine will not start.

On old VAZ 2106 cars, a contact distributor is installed, but such a system is not very reliable - due to malfunctions in the contact group (KG), various problems often arise:

  • due to burnt contacts, the engine may not start;
  • too large a gap in the CG affects the engine power - the motor stops developing speed;
  • with a small gap in the contacts, the motor twitches, it is unstable.

To repair the VAZ 2106 distributor, it must be removed and troubleshooted. The device is removed on the Classic very simply, but before repairing it, it is recommended to set the crankshaft to the mark - it will be easier to install the distributor after repair. We remove the distributor as follows:

Now the PR should be disassembled, perform the following operations:

The disassembly is over, it remains to troubleshoot, replace worn parts.

On VAZ 2107 (2105) cars, both contact and non-contact distributors can be installed, much depends on the year of manufacture of the car. Since the principle of disassembling the breaker-distributor on the "Classic Seven" is exactly the same as discussed above, in this section we will analyze how to properly troubleshoot.

First of all, we examine the cover of the distributor:

  • on its surface there should be no chips and cracks, both outside and inside;
  • the coal on the spring should move freely, without jamming;
  • there must be no burnt contacts on the cover, and internal contacts must not show signs of wear.

If the condition of the cover is in doubt, it is better to replace the part immediately, especially since it is very inexpensive.

The slider must also be visually intact, without external defects. We check the performance of the part with a multimeter, measure the resistance of the conductive part (resistor) - it should be in the range from 5 to 6 kilo-ohms.

The state of the contact group is determined by an external inspection - the contacts must close tightly, without gaps, and not have signs of burntness and heavy wear. If the contacts are a little burnt, we level the irregularities on them with a needle file, the badly burned KG needs to be changed.

The weights on the shaft should move easily, without jamming, and return to their place under the influence of the springs. If jamming is observed in the mechanism, the places of moving joints should be lubricated with machine oil.

The shaft itself should not show signs of wear, and if it has a wear, it must be changed.

The vacuum ignition timing regulator (VROZH) is easy to check: we draw air into ourselves through the fitting with our mouth, if the device is working properly, the "vacuum" rod starts to move.

The distributor bearing should not bite, rotate with tasks, have backlash.

Repair of the VAZ 2107 distributor is easy to do on your own, besides, distributor spare parts are always available in car dealerships, and they are very inexpensive.

In the distributors of VAZ 2108-09-099 cars, the VROZH quite often fails. Its performance can be checked without removing the PR from the engine - we suck in air through the hose, and if a vacuum is not created, the regulator should be changed.

The ignition timing controller can be replaced on site without removing the distributor:

Replacing the VROZH can also be done with the removal of the distributor, it will even be more convenient. We remove the distributor as follows:

Installing the distributor back is simple - the camshaft spline has a groove shifted to one side, and therefore the PR is placed in only one position, it is impossible to make a mistake here. Even during installation, you need to pay attention to the rubber o-ring - if the rubber has hardened, the part must be replaced. And in any case, the seal should be lubricated with an oil-resistant sealant, in which case it will be almost 100% possible to avoid oil leakage.

One of the most common problems of the VAZ 2109 distributor is the failure of the Hall sensor. If the sensor is faulty, the engine stops starting, we replace this part as follows:

After repairing the VAZ2109 distributor, you may need to adjust the ignition, it is very simple:

  • loosen the three nuts of the PR body itself;
  • on the running engine, we gradually turn the distributor in one direction or another, gas it with the throttle - we find the position at which the engine picks up speed faster, without failures;
  • after we tighten the nuts, we check the car on the go. If you can not find the desired position immediately, repeat the operation.

As you know, properly adjusted ignition VAZ 2106- this is not only, but also serious fuel economy. Therefore, at the first symptoms, we first of all recommend diagnosing the entire system with subsequent adjustment. The signs will be described below, as well as how to configure it.


Signs of incorrect ignition timing VAZ 2106

  1. While driving, the car does not develop maximum speed
  2. elevated
  3. Interruptions at idle
  4. Engine overheating
  5. Engine knock after shutdown
  6. Knocking fingers when you sharply press the gas pedal while the car is moving.

How to adjust the ignition of the VAZ 2106

The whole process comes down to three steps:

  1. Changing the angle of the closed state of contacts (UZSK)
  2. Changing the ignition timing (UOZ)
  3. Checking ignition adjustment while driving

Adjustment of the angle of the closed state of contacts (UZSK)

We make this adjustment if you have classic or installed on your car.
  1. Remove the distributor cover. For classic ignition, before adjusting with a needle file, we clean the contacts in the distributor and check the tightness of their fit to each other. If necessary, gently press the fixed contact.
  2. Using a special key, turn the crankshaft until the distance between the contacts is maximum (if there is no such key, then turn on the fourth gear and slowly push the car)
  3. We turn off the screw that fixes the contact group on the bearing plate
  4. Using a 0.4 mm probe, we adjust the contact group so that the probe fits snugly with the contacts
  5. We tighten the screw and thereby fix the position of the contact group.
  6. We check the gap using probes 0.35 mm and 0.45 mm. In this case, a thinner probe should move freely between the contacts, and the one that is thicker should not pass between them at all.

In the process of this adjustment, we obtained the desired clearance of the contacts of the distributor. But in fact, it is precisely the angle of the closed state of contacts (UZSK) that is critical. As a rule, the exact angle is present only in new distributors, when there is no wear in the contacts. Therefore, after adjusting the gap, it is recommended to check the angle, it should be 55°±3°.


How to determine the angle of the closed state of contacts (UZSK)

To check, you will need an electronic tachometer that has the function of measuring UZSK or another similar device with the same function.


Adjusting the ignition timing with a light bulb

For execution ignition adjustment VAZ 2106 with this method, you will need a 12 volt light bulb and a key to rotate the crankshaft.
  1. Turn the crankshaft with the key until the marks match, as shown in the figure, and at the same time the distributor slider was on the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder.
  2. We connect one contact of the light bulb to the wire that goes to ignition coil vaz 2106, and the second to the mass.
  3. We take out the central wire from the distributor and lean it against the mass of the car
  4. We loosen the bolt fixing the distributor housing and.
  5. We turn the distributor clockwise until the light goes out, which indicates the opening of the contacts.
  6. Then slowly rotate in the opposite direction. The contacts should close and the light will turn off.
  7. Now slowly rotate the distributor housing clockwise until the light turns on again.
  8. We fix this position with a screw.

In cases where the car uses a transistor or thyristor ignition system, then with this adjustment you will need a voltmeter or diode probe, since the voltage may not be enough to light the bulb.


Checking the ignition settings of the VAZ 2106 while the car is moving

  1. Warm up the engine to the optimum temperature
  2. On a flat stretch of road, accelerate the car to a speed of 40-50 km / h. and, turning on the 4th gear, sharply press the gas pedal. At the same time, characteristic detonation knocks should be heard in the engine for 1-2 seconds, and the car should pick up speed. If this does not happen, then turn the distributor one division, located on the scale at its base, counterclockwise.
  3. If, on the contrary, knocking is present for a longer period of time, turn vaz 2106 one notch clockwise.

If during these adjustments the position of the distributor has changed significantly compared to the position found in the second stage, then this is a sign of a malfunction in the operation of the distributor, or significantly from the nominal one.

The distributor can be safely considered an outdated element of the sparking system, since it is absent on modern cars. The functions of the main ignition distributor (the technical name of the distributor) of gasoline engines are now performed by electronics. The specified part was massively used on passenger cars of past generations, including the VAZ 2106. The minus of switchgears is frequent breakdowns, a clear plus is ease of repair.

Purpose and types of distributors

The main distributor of the "six" is located on a horizontal platform made to the left of the engine valve cover. The shaft of the unit, ending with splines, enters the drive gear inside the cylinder block. The latter is rotated by the timing chain and simultaneously rotates the oil pump shaft.

The distributor performs 3 functions in the ignition system:

  • at the right time, it breaks the electrical circuit of the primary winding of the coil, which causes a high voltage pulse to form in the secondary;
  • alternately directs the discharges to the candles according to the order of operation of the cylinders (1-3-4-2);
  • automatically adjusts the ignition timing when the crankshaft speed changes.

The spark is supplied and the air-fuel mixture is ignited before the piston reaches the upper extreme point, so that the fuel has time to fully burn out. At idle, the advance angle is 3-5 degrees, with an increase in the number of revolutions of the crankshaft, this figure should increase.

Various modifications of the "sixes" were completed with different types of distributors:

  1. VAZ 2106 and 21061 were equipped with engines with a working volume of 1.6 and 1.5 liters, respectively. Due to the height of the block, distributors with a long shaft and a mechanical contact system were installed on the model.
  2. VAZ 21063 cars were equipped with a 1.3 liter engine with a low cylinder block. The distributor is a contact type with a shortened shaft, the difference for models 2106 and 21063 is 7 mm.
  3. The updated VAZ 21065 series was equipped with contactless distributors with a long stem, working in conjunction with an electronic ignition system.

The difference in the length of the drive shaft, depending on the height of the cylinder block, does not allow the use of the VAZ 2106 part on a 1.3 liter engine - the distributor simply will not sit in the socket. Putting a spare part with a short shaft on a “clean six” will also not work - the splined part will not reach the gear. The rest of the filling of contact distributors is the same.

As a young inexperienced driver, I personally encountered the problem of different lengths of ignition distributor rods. On my Zhiguli VAZ 21063, the distributor shaft broke off on the road. In the nearest auto shop I bought a spare part from the "six" and began to install it on a car. Result: the distributor was not fully inserted, there was a large gap between the platform and the flange. Later, the seller explained my mistake and kindly replaced the part with a 1.3 liter engine suitable for the engine.

Maintenance of a contact type distributor

In order to independently repair the distributor, it is necessary to understand its structure and the purpose of all parts. The algorithm of the mechanical distributor is as follows:

In fact, 2 electrical circuits pass through the distributor - low and high voltage. The first is periodically broken by a contact group, the second switches to the combustion chambers of different cylinders.

Now it’s worth considering the functions of the small parts that make up the distributor:


An important point should be noted: a manual octane corrector is found only on older versions of the R-125 distributors. Subsequently, the design changed - instead of a wheel, an automatic vacuum corrector with a membrane acting from engine vacuum appeared.

The chamber of the new octane corrector is connected by a tube to the carburetor, the rod is connected to the movable plate, where the breaker contacts are located. The magnitude of the vacuum and the amplitude of the membrane operation depends on the opening angle of the throttle valves, that is, on the current load on the power unit.

A little about the operation of a centrifugal regulator located on the upper horizontal platform. The mechanism consists of a central lever and two weights with springs. When the shaft spins up to high speeds, the weights under the action of centrifugal forces diverge to the sides and turn the lever. Breaking the circuit and the formation of a discharge begins earlier.

Typical malfunctions

Ignition distributor problems manifest themselves in one of two ways:

  1. The engine is unstable - vibrates, "troits", periodically stalls. A sharp press on the gas pedal causes a pop in the carburetor and a deep dip, accelerating dynamics and engine power are lost.
  2. The power unit does not start, although sometimes it “picks up”. Possible shots in the silencer or air filter.

In the second case, the fault is easier to detect. The list of reasons leading to a complete failure is relatively short:

  • the capacitor or resistor located in the slider has become unusable;
  • breakage of the wire of the low voltage circuit passing inside the housing;
  • the cover of the distributor cracked, where the high-voltage wires from the candles are connected;
  • the plastic slider failed - a rotor with a movable contact, screwed to the upper support platform and closing the centrifugal regulator;
  • jammed and broke the main shaft.

A broken shaft leads to a complete failure of the VAZ 2106 engine. Moreover, a chip with splines remains inside the drive gear, as happened on my “six”. How to get out of the situation while on the road? I took off the distributor, prepared a piece of the "cold welding" mixture and stuck it to a long screwdriver. Then he lowered the end of the tool into the hole, pressed it against the fragment and waited for the chemical composition to harden. It remains only to carefully remove the screwdriver with a piece of the shaft stuck to the "cold welding".

There are many more reasons for unstable work, so it is more difficult to diagnose them:

  • cover insulation breakdown, abrasion of its electrodes or central carbon contact;
  • the working surfaces of the breaker contacts are badly burnt or clogged;
  • the bearing is worn out and loosened, on which the base plate with the contact group rotates;
  • the springs of the centrifugal mechanism have stretched;
  • the diaphragm of the automatic octane corrector failed;
  • water has entered the housing.

The resistor and capacitor are checked with a tester, the broken insulation of the cover and the slider is detected without any instruments. Burnt contacts are clearly visible to the naked eye, as are stretched weight springs. More diagnostic methods are described in the following sections of the publication.

Tools and preparation for disassembly

To independently repair the VAZ 2106 distributor, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

  • 2 flat screwdrivers with a narrow slot - regular and shortened;
  • a set of small open end wrenches 5-13 mm in size;
  • pliers, round-nose pliers;
  • technical tweezers;
  • probe 0.35 mm;
  • hammer and thin metal tip;
  • flat file, fine sandpaper;
  • rag.

If you plan to completely disassemble the distributor, it is recommended to stock up on WD-40 spray lubricant. It will help displace excess moisture and facilitate the unwinding of small threaded connections.

During the repair process, additional devices and materials may be needed - a multimeter, a vise, pliers with pointed jaws, engine oil, and so on. You don’t have to create special conditions to carry out work; you can repair the distributor in an ordinary garage or in an open area.

So that during assembly there are no problems with setting the ignition, it is recommended to fix the position of the slider before removing the element according to the instructions:


To dismantle the distributor, you need to disconnect the vacuum tube from the membrane unit, disconnect the coil wire and unscrew the only fastening nut with a 13 mm wrench.

Lid and slider problems

The part is made of durable dielectric plastic, in the upper part there are outputs - 1 central and 4 side ones. Outside, high-voltage wires are connected to the sockets, from the inside, the terminals are in contact with a rotating slider. The central electrode is a spring-loaded carbon rod in contact with the brass pad of the rotor.

A high-potential pulse from the coil is fed to the central electrode, passes through the contact pad of the slider and the resistor, then goes to the desired cylinder through the side terminal and armored wire.

To identify problems with the cover, the distributor does not need to be removed:


Do not be afraid to mix up high voltage cables when disconnecting. Cylinder numbers are marked on top of the cover, which is easy to navigate.

An insulation breakdown between two contacts is diagnosed as follows:


Not knowing such subtleties, I turned to the nearest auto shop and bought a new cover with a return condition. I carefully swapped parts and started the engine. If the idling leveled off, left the spare part on the car, otherwise returned it to the seller.

Slider malfunctions are similar - abrasion of contact pads, cracks and breakdown of insulating material. In addition, a resistor is installed between the contacts of the rotor, which often fails. If the element burns out, the high-voltage circuit breaks, the spark is not supplied to the candles. If black marks are found on the surface of the part, its diagnostics are necessary.

Important note: when the slider becomes unusable, there is no spark on all candles. Insulation breakdown is diagnosed using a high-voltage cable coming from the coil. Pull the end of the wire out of the cover, bring it to the central contact pad of the slider and turn the crankshaft with a starter. A discharge appeared - it means that the insulation is broken.

Checking the resistor is simple - measure the resistance between the terminals with a multimeter. An indicator from 5 to 6 kOhm is considered normal, if the value is greater or less, replace the resistance.

Video: how to check the functionality of the slider

Contact group troubleshooting

Since a spark jumps between the contact surfaces when opening, the working planes gradually wear out. As a rule, a ledge is formed on the movable terminal, and a recess is formed on the static terminal. As a result, the surfaces do not fit well, the spark discharge weakens, the motor begins to “troit”.

A detail with a small output is restored by stripping:

  1. Remove the distributor cover without disconnecting the cables.
  2. Using a screwdriver, push the contacts apart and slide a flat file between them. The task is to remove the build-up of the movable terminal and align the static terminal as much as possible.
  3. After stripping with a file and fine sandpaper, wipe the group with a rag or blow it with a compressor.

In stores, you can find spare parts with upgraded contacts - holes are made in the center of the working surfaces. They do not form depressions and growths.

If the terminals are worn to the limit, it is better to change the group. Sometimes the surfaces are deformed to such an extent that it is impossible to adjust the gap - the probe is inserted between the bump and the recess, too much clearance remains at the edges.

The operation is performed directly on the car, without dismantling the distributor itself:


Installation of contacts is not difficult - screw the new group with screws and connect the wire. Next is the gap adjustment of 0.3-0.4 mm, performed using a feeler gauge. It is necessary to turn the starter a little so that the cam presses on the plate, then adjust the gap and fix the element with the adjusting screw.

If the work planes burn too quickly, it is worth checking the capacitor. Perhaps it is dry and does not perform its function well. The second option is the low quality of the product, where the opening surfaces are offset or made of ordinary metal.

Bearing replacement

In distributors, a roller bearing is used for the correct operation of the octane corrector. The element is aligned with the horizontal platform where the contact group is attached. To the protrusion of this platform is attached a rod coming from a vacuum membrane. When the vacuum from the carburetor begins to move the diaphragm, the rod turns the pad along with the contacts, correcting the moment of sparking.

During operation, play occurs on the bearing, which increases with wear. The platform, together with the contact group, begins to dangle, opening occurs spontaneously, and with a small gap. As a result, the VAZ 2106 engine is very unstable in any mode, power is lost, and gasoline consumption increases. The bearing is not repaired, only changed.

The backlash of the bearing assembly is determined visually. It is enough to open the distributor cover and shake the contact breaker up and down by hand.

Replacement is performed in this order:

  1. Remove the distributor from the car by disconnecting the coil wire and unscrewing the fastening nut with a 13 mm wrench. Do not forget to prepare for dismantling - turn the slider and make chalk marks, as described above.
  2. Dismantle the contact group by unscrewing 3 screws - two fixing screws, the third holds the terminal.
  3. Using a hammer and a thin tip, knock out the stopper rod from the oil slinger. Remove the latter from the shaft without losing the second washer.
  4. Remove the shaft along with the slider from the housing.
  5. Disconnect the octane corrector rod from the moving platform and unscrew the membrane unit.
  6. Prying the plate on both sides with screwdrivers, pull out the worn bearing.

Installation of a new element is carried out in the reverse order. Before installing the inside of the distributor, it is advisable to thoroughly clean it. If rust has formed on the roller, remove it with sandpaper and lubricate the clean surface with engine oil. When you insert the shaft into the housing sleeve, do not forget to adjust the contacts on the feeler gauge.

When installing the distributor, keep the original position of the body and slider. Start the engine, loosen the element fixing nut, and rotate the body to achieve the most stable operation. Tighten the mount and check the "six" on the go.

Video: how to change a bearing without marking

Other malfunctions

When the engine categorically refuses to start, you should check the performance of the capacitor. The technique is simple: seat an assistant behind the wheel, remove the distributor cap and give the command to rotate the starter. If a barely noticeable spark jumps between the contacts, or one is not observed at all, feel free to buy and install a new capacitor - the old one can no longer provide the required discharge energy.

Any experienced driver operating the "six" with a mechanical distributor carries a spare capacitor and contacts. These spare parts cost a penny, but without them the car will not go. I was convinced of this from personal experience, when I had to look for a capacitor in an open field - a passing Zhiguli driver helped, who gave me his own spare part.

The owners of the VAZ 2106 with a contact distributor are also annoyed by other minor troubles:

  1. The springs holding the weights of the centrifugal corrector are stretched. There are small dips and jerks at the time of acceleration of the car.
  2. Similar symptoms are observed in the case of critical wear of the vacuum diaphragm.
  3. Sometimes the car stalls for no apparent reason, as if the main ignition wire was pulled out, and then it starts and runs normally. The problem lies in the internal wiring, which has broken and periodically breaks the power circuit.

It is not necessary to change stretched springs. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the slider and, using pliers, bend the brackets where the springs are fixed. A torn membrane cannot be repaired - you need to remove the assembly and install a new one. Diagnosis is simple: disconnect the vacuum tube from the carburetor and draw air through it with your mouth. A working diaphragm will begin to rotate the plate with contacts by means of a thrust.

Video: complete disassembly of the ignition distributor VAZ 2101-2107

Device and repair of contactless distributor

The device of the distributor, acting in conjunction with the system, is identical to the design of a mechanical distributor. There is also a plate with a bearing, a slider, a centrifugal regulator and a vacuum corrector. Only instead of the contact group and the capacitor, a magnetic Hall sensor is installed plus a metal screen mounted on the shaft.

How does a contactless distributor work:

  1. The Hall sensor and the permanent magnet are located on a movable platform, a screen with slots rotates between them.
  2. When the screen covers the magnet field, the sensor is inactive, the voltage at the terminals is zero.
  3. As the roller rotates and passes through the slit, the magnetic field reaches the sensor surface. A voltage appears at the output of the element, which is transmitted to the electronic unit - the switch. The latter gives a signal to the coil that produces a discharge that enters the distributor slider.

The VAZ 2106 electronic system uses a different type of coil that can work in conjunction with a switch. It is also impossible to convert a conventional distributor to a contact one - it will not be possible to install a rotating screen.

The non-contact distributor is more reliable in operation - the Hall sensor and the bearing become unusable much less often due to the lack of mechanical load. A sign of a meter failure is the absence of a spark and a complete failure of the ignition system. Replacement is easy - you need to disassemble the distributor, unscrew 2 screws securing the sensor and pull the connector out of the groove.

Malfunctions of other elements of the distributor are similar to the old contact version. Troubleshooting methods are detailed in previous sections.

Video: replacing the Hall sensor on classic VAZ models

About the drive mechanism

To transmit torque to the distributor shaft on the "six", a helical gear is used, rotated by the timing chain (colloquially - "boar"). Since the element is located horizontally, and the distributor roller is vertical, there is an intermediary between them - the so-called fungus with oblique teeth and internal slots. This gear simultaneously turns 2 shafts - the oil pump and the distributor.

Find out more about the timing chain drive device:

Both transmission links - "boar" and "fungus" are designed for a long service life and are changed during the overhaul of the engine. The first part is removed after disassembling the timing chain drive, the second is pulled out through the upper hole in the cylinder block.

The VAZ 2106 distributor, equipped with a contact breaker, is a rather complex unit, consisting of many small parts. Hence the unreliability in operation and the constant failures of the sparking system. The non-contact version of the distributor creates problems much less often, but in terms of performance it still falls short of modern ignition modules, which have no moving parts.



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