Making a trunk from a button in a VAZ 2114 is much easier than it seems to many car owners. All work is carried out with a minimum amount of time and physical costs. Without resorting to an expensive professional service, you can quickly improve the protection of the luggage compartment of your car on your own. Having completed the work once according to simple algorithms and schemes, the owner of the VAZ 2114 will be able to calmly and naturally open the luggage compartment of the car by pressing just one button located in the cabin or on the alarm panel. 
The main components of the electric trunk lock
The electric lock is best connected to a conventional mechanism in order to be able to automatically and mechanically open the luggage compartment of the car. Electric drives for VAZ cars exist in two forms: on an electric motor and on magnetic plates. Due to its high performance characteristics, the first type is more in demand and popular among owners of domestic cars. But, the drive made on magnetic plates is easier to install.
The electric drive consists of the following elements:
- contact relay;
- fuse;
- stock;
- buttons.
The advantages of this design are obvious: an increase in the protection of the luggage compartment, which will become a real barrier to an intruder, the trunk lock of the VAZ 2114 will work stably and in most cases without fail.
Installing an electric lock is feasible in various ways. However, for its proper functioning, an alarm must be installed on the car.
The body structure of most domestic cars has some weakness - while the car is moving with an oncoming air flow, all the dirt, dust, sand actively pollutes the “stern”. In this case, the lock itself is also clogged with small particles, which in the future results in a lot of problems with its functioning. So how to make a trunk with a VAZ 2114 button correctly?
Instructions for installing the electric tailgate lock
If you are lucky with the standard lock, it locks and holds the tailgate well, then there is no need to change it. 
In this case, you must have with you:
- power window roller;
- door activator;
- steel cable;
- wires with terminals;
- relay with four contacts;
- 10 A fuse.
To automate the opening of the trunk, it is necessary to provide a pull on the latch of the lock. For this purpose, a special roller is installed on the wiper gearbox housing. The steel cable is pulled through the roller and fastened with conventional clamps. Experienced riders often use a bicycle cable because it is strong and flexible. Using it, you can quite easily connect the door activator to the lock tongue. 
You can connect the entire structure to the cigarette lighter if there is no proper knowledge in the electrical circuit of the car. You just need to connect the plus from the cigarette lighter to the button and then to the lock. The minus comes from the taillight. Or carry out the operation of the trunk lock 2114 using a special relay.
Useful video
You can visually familiarize yourself with the possibilities of manufacturing a trunk from a button in the video below:
On this, all work can be considered completed. Ideally, it will take a couple of hours to provide the luggage compartment of your car with automated opening, which is provided on most foreign cars today.
Hi all. Well, finally got around to the trunk to open the trunk with a button. I just thought about implementing this idea for a long time, but somehow there was not enough time. Everything is done, it just takes a little time. We will do it using the example of a VAZ 2107 car. So, what we need:
Activator
- Block for the fuse. (I will lead plus from the battery)
-Fuse
-Wire, took with a margin of 7m,
- The button for opening the trunk of the vaz 2110,
-Terminals “Mom”
-5-pin relay (maybe 4, later I will explain why I took exactly 5)
-Well, you will also need electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
I explain why I took exactly a 5-pin relay, everything is simple, because I opened the alarm book, namely the connection diagram and it described how to connect this type of relay, so I decided to take it so as not to look for connection diagrams on the Internet.
Here is my wiring diagram:
I will say that this circuit is assembled to retract the activator, you can do it to push it out, you just need to swap the blue and green wires
Circuit elements:
Trunk opening button, VAZ 2110, 3-wire
5-pin relay, 75.3777
After a leisurely work, the wiring is all ready, I took it with a margin)
Let's start, the installation process is quite fast, you can easily manage it in a day)
I decided to put the relay under the hood so as not to pull the positive wire far, and you need to look for a place under the panel for the relay :)
I put two wires through the main hole of all the wires, namely the wire to the button, to open the trunk, and the second directly to the activator itself, the positive wire:
I placed the relay in such a place, attached a washer barrel to the mount:
I decided to make a terminal to the conscience, so it was decided to buy a positive terminal:
I hid the wiring in the cabin under the carpet, tobish, it runs next to the standard wiring, at the same time I ran the wires under the rear speakers so as not to disassemble 10 times:
Double wires are music, and red is our plus for the activator. Everything is simple in the trunk, we carry it out together with standard wires:
A decent amount of wires have already gathered, it is worth stopping at this place. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the “mother” terminal as on the activator, so I decided to do it this way for now, then I’ll find the terminal and redo it:
The activator is made to retract. And on the minus I cut off the terminal and made another:
Now about the location of the button. I did not think long and chose a seat to the left of the seat, at hand and not conspicuous.
The installation is too simple, I drilled a hole, put on the terminals and inserted, minus we hook it right there, onto the lining mounting bolt. We also run wires under the carpet.
And now the most difficult part, for me it turned out like this, it was the relationship between the activator and the lock that slowed down my work, because I could not drill the lock for a long time, I don’t know how everyone is, but I spat on this matter and had to collective farm, because I don’t want to change native castle, who knows what quality it will come across, but here it is strong-hot.
Get to the point! I removed the lock, but attempts to drill it ended unsuccessfully, so I decided to go the other way, drilled a hole on the side of the lock, and wrapped the tongue itself with a cable from a bicycle, everything is held tight + the larva mechanism is still pressing:
There is no information on the correct connection of the electric drive to these cars on any site, so this information will help you.
The electric trunk release is a very convenient feature that allows you not to constantly remove the keys from the ignition to open the trunk, this article will also discuss connecting the electric drive to the alarm key fob for unlocking it from the alarm remote control.
Reinforced Saturn-type door unlocking drive (conventional drives for this car will not pull) - costs about 250 rubles.
- trunk release button - 50 rubles
- relay 90.3747.10 and relay contacts - 50 rubles.
- rope - 20 rubles
- wires - 30 rubles.
DIY installation
To begin installation, remove the tailgate trim. And we install the electric drive as shown in the diagram, use a standard mounting foot, fasten the drive to 2 self-tapping screws. On the left side of the door cover.We connect it either to the regular brake signal on the spoiler, if available, or we pull a new wire under the panel on the driver's side.
We cut off the cable of the required size and connect it to the electric drive and the lock as shown in the diagram:
We adjust the tension of the cable for proper unlocking and locking of the trunk.
After that, we connect the button itself, for this, a special place is provided in the car panel under the instrument panel on the driver's side.
It would be wrong to put a button near the cigarette lighter or small change box when the car has a regular place for this.
We remove the wire going to the additional brake light on the spoiler from the brake switch and connect it to the trunk release button.
Rice. The simplest wiring diagram for the electric trunk lock.
If you don’t have an additional brake signal, or for some reason you want to use it, then, as mentioned above, we pull a new wire to the bottom of the instrument panel on the driver’s side and connect it to the door closer and to the battery through the fuse.
We make final checks and adjustments
You can also open the rear door trunk lock at the same time using the button and using the key fob of your alarm (if your alarm has any additional channel), for this we need a relay. And the alarm diagram.
It is important that for the normal functioning of the trunk electric drive, when connected to an additional alarm channel, you need to select a pulse length of 0.8 seconds.
I decided to change the operation of the standard opening button located on the trunk to suit my preferences: now I can open the trunk from the passenger compartment, and the external standard button has become disabled. Opening the trunk from the standard Ford key fob has not changed, it works as before.
There are a huge number of reasons for the alteration, here, for example. I am sitting in a car, the door is open, I breathe air, a bad person will not open the trunk now, well, I don’t want to close the central lock every time in parking lots (button on the dashboard) while sitting in the car. The outer button is often dirty, especially in the off-season. Etc.
I installed in the cabin on the lower plastic lining of the left front pillar, where the hood opening handle is located, one button and one switch (see photo):
1) When you press the button with the "open trunk" symbol, the trunk opens by itself and smoothly rises to the end (I have a sedan, on other body types it may not rise to the end?). This button now works the same way as the standard button on the outside of the trunk lid used to, so, naturally, if you locked yourself in the car by pressing the lock button in the center of the dashboard, then my button will not work either. It is low-current, sends a request to the BCM module to open the trunk, but does not control the power circuit of the lock itself. The button is from VAZ2110, the price is 55 rubles.
2) The switch serves to block the operation of only the standard external opening button on the trunk lid. In position "0" the external button is completely separated from the control circuit. Well, in "1", of course, the outer button works as always. The switch was bought in a car shop for 50r.
The features of disassembling the cladding and removing the glove compartment are described in detail in specialized topics, I will give only subtle places.
To remove the lining of the left pillar, pry off the plug on the hood opening handle with TWO WIDE VERY SHARP knives. We insert two medium slotted otvetki into the hole formed and wring out 2 latches on the sleeve and at the same time pull the hood opening handle towards you. Oh, removed. We pry off the left side trim on the dashboard and remove it, pull the rack lining we need, it is held on by latches, we disengage it from the threshold lining at the bottom.
You need to install your buttons in approximately the same way as in the photo, then there is no risk of them resting against a metal rack or somewhere else.
To remove the glove compartment, unscrew 5 TORX25 screws, after prying and removing the right side trim on the dashboard. Pull out the glove compartment halfway, then remove the glove compartment light bulb module, pull out the plastic box (by pressing 2 latches on top) in which the USB connector is, then detach the USB connector itself (2 latches on the sides). Remove the glovebox entirely.
We need connector C2 - this is the upper leftmost connector of the BCM module (if you look directly at the module from the passenger seat). We remove the clip that holds the wiring harness from our C2 connector. We carefully remove the Ford paper labels on the harness (I then glued them back, everything turned out like a factory one). We remove the black electrical tape from the bundle, it is necessary to release approx. 30 cm of the bundle, the more, the easier it will be to work with wires later. We are looking for a thin (0.35mm2) brown wire, it is alone there, you will not confuse it. We are looking for earth: green-blue medium thickness (0.5mm2), there seem to be even two identical ones, take any, just do not confuse them with green-purple, it is thinner (0.35mm2). (I got confused at first) If in doubt, find a large blue wire among the adjacent wires and remember what blue is, not purple!
Take the wires for pulling from the buttons to the BCM with a length of 2.5 meters, this is the butt length. The cross section can be small 0.2-0.5 mm2, there is a weak current. Wrap our wires along the entire length with black electrical tape, so that it is beautiful and imperceptible. Immediately at the buttons, I fixed the wires and their connectors with ties to the plastic from the inside. He stretched it from the lining of the rack immediately down, away from the hood opening handle, then in front under the floor under the driver’s feet, then at the very, very bottom of the center console (stretched with wire), much lower than the radio and climate unit (for example, where the VAZ2110 has a controller ECU, as if under it), then it goes under the HCM and along the regular harness to the C2 connector. Everywhere along the way, fasten with screeds, to standard elements and other harnesses. Then hide our solderings or twists (do not forget about the electrical tape!) inside between the wires of the standard harness at the VSM, wrap everything with black electrical tape, as it was, glue paper Ford labels on the harness as it was. We put on a regular clip on the tourniquet as it was.
It took me over 3 hours to complete. What else to do in the car?
The trunk lock and the button for opening it are, in general, it would seem, one of the most uncomplicated elements of car security. However, they often get in trouble. Especially often the trunk button “jumps”. At the same time, it’s definitely not worth delaying with its repair, since a situation may arise when you urgently need to get something out of the trunk, and access to it is closed - the button does not respond to your actions. Of course, you can try to open the trunk with improvised means, but then a counter question will arise - how to close it after that? Meanwhile, thieves are on the alert and will be able to quickly figure out a car in which the trunk does not close. To prevent this, you must immediately fix the problem. And how to do it - read our article.
1. The trunk release button does not work - what to do and how to open the lock?
The first step is to figure out how the trunk opening mechanism works. When you press the button, a special signal is transmitted through the ground wire (that is, along the "minus") to the GEM module, due to which the relay is activated. At this point, you will hear a click.
After that, a positive charge is transmitted through the white-green wire that goes to the trunk lock, which acts on the lock, removing the special latch and thereby opening the trunk. As you can see, the system consists of several elements, the failure of which can cause the trunk release button to stop working properly.
In such a situation, it is very important to accurately determine the cause of the malfunction in order to quickly and efficiently eliminate it. There can be many options, so we recommend that you consider each of them in turn:
1. We carry out a check of the trunk release button itself. Our main goal is to determine whether the signal from the button reaches the GEM module. For this you need:
- press the button and listen carefully to see if the relay clicks (the sound should come from under the instrument panel at the passenger's feet);
If you hear the right click, it means that the signal passes from the button to the relay normally (but if you press the button very often, the sound may disappear due to thermal protection, so pause at least 5 seconds between presses);
If there was no click, you need to remove the plastic trim on the instrument panel, which is attached with several self-tapping screws, pull it towards you, but you do not need to completely remove it; put your hand under the panel and push the button towards you;
We remove the trunk opening button and try to close it for a short time - if the necessary relay click occurs, then the problem is directly in the button itself, which will need to be disassembled and repaired (more on this later);
If the closure did not give anything, then we continue to search for the cause of the malfunction.
2. We check why the relay does not work and whether the signal from the button reaches the trunk wire. To check, you need to do the following:
- at the passenger's feet on the right side, remove the plastic trim, which is fastened with a pair of plastic bolts;
Under the glove compartment we remove the “wafer”, the fastening of which consists of several clips, possibly with internal plastic bolts;
Completely remove the glove compartment, which is mounted on self-tapping screws;
We are looking for a GEM module (it looks like a black plastic box, and it always has connectors for connecting wires);
We take out the GEM module, pry up a little the yellow latch, which is located on the green connector (if you count from the left side, it will be the second one);
Now you need to connect the contact of the white-green wire (the one that goes from the GEM module to the trunk lock, it is the second in the relay contact group) to the battery positive;
If you heard that as a result of these actions, the trunk lock opened, it means that the signal is passing to it, but the GEM module itself does not transmit a “positive” impulse;
We try to clean the contacts and repeat the opening of the trunk lock using the button; if it failed, the reason is in the GEM module;
If it was not possible to open the trunk with the help of the battery, we continue the search.
3. We check the performance of the drive. For this you need:
Open the trunk - we hope you have access to it with the key;
Remove the trim, which is located around the trunk lock itself (it is fastened with self-tapping screws and plastic clips);
Again, remove the "plus" from the battery and touch it to the white-green wire directly near the trunk lock;
- if at this moment the usual murmur occurred, which indicates the opening of the lock, the malfunction is hidden in the wire, which is not able to transmit a signal from the GEM module (most likely the reason may be hidden in the corrugation, which is located on the left side of the car trunk lid);
If, in this case, the lock does not give any signs of life, it means that its drive is broken, and the lock will have to be changed (fortunately, such a nuisance happens less often).
As you can see, there can be a lot of reasons, and we won’t be able to tell you how to fix them all in one article. Therefore, today we will talk specifically about how the repair and replacement of the trunk opening button is carried out.
2. How to repair a trunk release button that does not send a signal to the GEM module?
The whole process of repairing the trunk release button consists of five main steps:
1. Removing the instrument panel.
2. Removing the button itself, which does not work.
3. Removing the wires from the button.
4. Button disassembly and repair.
5. Reverse installation of the trunk release button.
What do we need to repair a faulty trunk release button?
- black automotive sealant for fixing the button after repair work;
Special grease for electrical contacts;
Glue for plastic;
- a soldering iron for connecting contacts, as well as solder and rosin (where without them);
Knife, not necessarily sharp;
Regular screwdriver;
Tester (needed to determine the performance of the repaired button).
We have already described how to access the button itself and get it for the possibility of a more detailed study and further manipulations. The main thing is not to forget to immediately turn off the power from the battery so that you don’t inadvertently “shit” with current. After the button is in your hands, feel free to cut off all the wires that fit it.
By the way: the button can be fastened with latches, so it will not be possible to get it the first time. To still achieve this, you need to very carefully move the latches using a regular screwdriver, after which it will not be difficult for you to remove the button. However, on some car models, blue buttons are sometimes installed, which are even more difficult to remove. In this case, the button will literally have to be picked out with a knife and cut off the sealant with which it was fixed.
We move to a more convenient place for repair work and proceed to the most important stage: we disassemble the button and try to understand why it refuses to work. In order to disassemble it, you must again use either a screwdriver or a knife, with which you can pry the cover until it completely comes out of its latches.
Next, you will need a new trunk release button, or rather its inner part. After all, even a specialist is unlikely to be able to figure out which contact burned out on the board of the old button. Fortunately, the new button costs just ridiculous money, and you can easily find it both in online stores and in the usual car market. It is very important to choose the right size for the new button so that the design of the old one is neither too big nor too small for it (in this case it will have to be fixed with glue). For soldering, you will need one of the pairs of side pins. The main thing is to check how the new button works before installation. To do this, you can use a regular tester. After that, we perform the following actions:
1. We insert the new button into the body of the old one, leaving the "antennae" ready for soldering.
2. We solder the contacts to the antennae (but not those that come from the GEM module, but specially cut short wires).
3. We fill the housing cover with special grease, which is intended for electrical contacts.
4. Install the button cover.
Surely you are interested in why we do not solder the "antennae" immediately to the native wiring? This is done in order to simplify the installation of the button itself: you can easily install the button from the outside, after which you will connect the wires to each other, remembering to securely isolate all connections with electrical tape. Also, if the button suddenly fails again, it will be easier to remove it, since you will simply strip the insulation, disconnect the wires and push the failed button out.
In general, the replacement of the trunk opening button is carried out according to the same scheme. The only difference will be that you will be using the new button in its entirety, not just its “stuffing”. In this case, the purchase of a new button will need to be taken more responsibly, it is even advisable to pick up a copy that is completely identical to the old one. Thanks to this, you don't have to think about how to insert a button that is too large, or close the space that was left free after installing a button that is too small.
3. Installation of the trunk release button on the car, where it was not there before.
Unfortunately, there are still cars in which the trunk is opened not with an internal button in the car, but only with a key. Installing a button in a car is generally not difficult, but this task involves the complete replacement of the old trunk lock with a new one that can be opened by an electric charge. It doesn't cost that much, considering the benefits it will bring. In addition to the castle, you need to purchase in advance:
- trunk release button with relay;
A single-core wire for connecting a button (you need to take about 2.5 meters so that you don’t have to sharpen it later);
Two terminals, one from which will go to "plus", and the second to "minus" (for mass, you must purchase a wire with a ring);
Block "father-mother";
Wire with a block for a fuse (it is better to take a fuse for 5 A);
Consumables: sealant, electrical tape (or heat shrink tubing).
Of the tools, you need to prepare a wood drill in advance, it is best to use number 23. You will need it in order to make a hole in the instrument panel to install a new button. Also, in the process of work, a drill, a soldering iron (not always needed, since the wires can not be soldered, but simply twisted), wrenches and pliers are useful. First of all, we proceed to prepare the wiring for connecting the button, for which we lay out all the necessary tools and materials in front of us. Let's immediately pay attention to two important points:
- if you are going to use heat shrink instead of electrical tape, do not forget to put pieces of heat shrink on them before twisting the wires;
If you're going to use a soldering iron, get some soldering acid right away to help you solder more efficiently.
We assemble our wiring directly for the trunk release button:
1. The red wire that departs from the male-female block must be connected to the terminal and the connection must be secured first with pliers, and then by soldering. We isolate in a way that is available to you.
2. The black wire, which also departs from the "father-mother" block, is similarly connected to the second terminal and do not forget about the insulation.
3. We fasten the black wire of the second block to a single-core wire and solder it for reliability, do not forget to isolate. We measure about 35 cm from the entire length of the wire, cut it off and twist it with the wire, at the end of which there is a terminal with a ring (if you just used a terminal with a ring, then insert a solid wire into it and fasten it).
4. The red wire of the second block must also be connected to a single-core wire, but we are not in a hurry to cut the latter, since its length will need to be measured already in the process of connecting to the lock.
5. We drill a hole for the button on the panel or in another place convenient for you. Immediately check if it fits into it, but the most important thing is not to overdo it and do not make the hole too wide.
6.
We insert the button into the hole and snap it into place. We connect contacts to it: turn the button so that two identical vertical contacts are parallel to each other and are located below, and one horizontal contact is located on top. Further, the red terminal should be connected to the lower contact on the right side, and the black terminal to the upper horizontal one.
7. At the time of connecting all other elements, you can disconnect the "mom-dad" block.
You have completed one of the most important stages of the work. Next, you should proceed to connect the entire system to the car. To do this, follow the instructions:
1. We remove the terminals from the car battery.
2. We remove the side trim of the car console, which is located on the driver's side.
3. We also remove the side trim of the console on the passenger side.
4. Wires with a block disconnected from the button must be screwed to the "minus". You can find it under the left threshold, next to the front pillar - you need terminals tightened with a nut, which are the "ground". Using a wrench, unscrew the nut and fit the terminal with the ring, after which the nut must be screwed back.
5. The remaining wire, which departs from the block, we pull under the threshold of the car, under the carpet, under the pedals and strive for the center console. Pull it out completely from the passenger side.
6. Next to the motor shield behind there is a connector with wires. If you go from the shield, then you need to select the second connector, which is colored pink, and pull it out of the socket.
7. In the connector, you need to find a wire with yellow and blue stripes. We cut off the insulation from it (you don’t need much, about 0.5 cm).
8.
We take the wire and put a fuse on it. One end from it must be connected to a wire with yellow and blue stripes, and the other end to the wire that we pulled under the console, having previously cut off the length you need from it. Don't forget isolation.
9. We return the pink connector to its place, inserting it with the latch up.
10. We connect the block together, check how accurately and correctly the terminals are connected, whether they are disconnected.
11. We extend the remaining end of the wire from the GEM module to the trunk lock and also connect it, not forgetting about the insulation.
12. We return the terminal to the battery.
13. We check how the system we connected works: we press the button and wait for the relay to click and the lock to respond. We hope that the trunk lock lid opened for you the first time.
That's all. It remains only to put in place all the removed panels and remove all debris. We hope that the trunk opening button installed by oneself will work for a long time and without interruption, so that later it does not have to be repaired or changed again.
