How to remove the rear hub of the vaz. Replacing the rear hub bearing - get rid of unpleasant sounds

The rear hub bearing VAZ 2109 can be changed in several ways. The quality of the repair depends on the "correct" choice. Below you will find detailed instructions describing each method. You can decide for yourself which is closer to you. At the service station you will not be asked what is best, and they will do it their own way. This is a good reason to delve into the "topic" and make a replacement yourself, especially since such repairs are within the power of everyone.

Causes and symptoms of the need for replacement

The rear wheel doesn't need to turn, so the mounting system is quite simple. The bearing, tightly pressed into the hub, rotates on the shaft. Backlash is not allowed in the design, and rotation must be smooth.

A good wheel bearing usually lasts at least 100 thousand km, but the quality of the roads makes its own adjustments. The main enemies are holes and dirt. A strong blow can damage the part very quickly. Do not forget about natural wear and tear.

Such damage is hard to miss. While driving, you will hear a clear howl or hum in the rear of the car (intensifies in turns). For a more “targeted” check, you need to jack up the rear wheel and spin it strongly (if possible). If you hear noise during rotation, it's time to change. Knocks during transverse "stirring" mean an extreme degree of wear. In the latter case, do not delay the repair.

Check both wheels. By ear, it is not always possible to correctly determine the side. We found a breakdown, now we move on to preparation.

Necessary tool for work on the VAZ 2109

The complexity and speed of repair directly depend on whether you have a special tool. There is a minimum required set:

• a hammer (where would it be without it) and a wooden block or a small board;
• pliers for removing retaining rings (an alternative is an awl or a thin screwdriver);
• key or head for 12;
• head 30 with a knob (to unscrew it easier, extend the knob with a pipe).

To speed up additionally use:

• three-legged puller for the hub;
• two-legged puller for the inner race of the bearing;
• universal puller for pressing in / pressing out;
• chisel.

For alternative methods without the use of pullers, see further in the instructions.

When choosing a bearing, pay attention to the Saratov bearings with the SPZ marking and the Vologda bearings (VBF). Bearings from Samara are notorious, and imported ones are not worth the extra money. Therefore, the first two options are the best combination of price and quality.

How to replace the rear hub bearing: instructions

1. We will not describe the removal of the wheel. Most importantly, do not neglect your safety - substitute an additional stop under the threshold of the car (an unscrewed wheel, a stump, a special stand). Before removing, you need to remove the central plug and align the locking “shoulder” on the mounting nut (a flat screwdriver or a chisel will help). Now “tear off” the nut with a 30mm socket (turn counterclockwise). At this point, the wheel must be on the ground or an assistant is needed to press the brake pedal hard.

   "Tear off" the nut Straighten the bead Remove the cap

2. The next step is to remove the brake drum. There are possible complications here. During operation, it often "sticks". Immediately unscrew the guides, then screw them into adjacent holes of the same diameter and continue to twist until the disk moves.
3. If it “does not go” or the thread is broken, then knock down the drum with blows from the back side. Use a rubber mallet or a mallet along with a block of wood to avoid chipping.
4. Now you have direct access to the hub. Unscrew the nut completely and remove the washer from under it.
5. There are three ways to remove the hub from the seat:
   • If you're lucky, you can take it off with your hands. Pull jerkily towards you or use the pry bar as a lever. Bad luck? See below.
   • Screw two long (15–20 cm) bolts into the wheel mounting points. Screw them in until the hub moves from the “dead” point (in the fourth step, you removed the brake drum in a similar way).
   • Use a special three-arm puller.
6. If you screw the drum to the hub with the reverse side (photo below), then you can apply more force.

   Improving the grip Three-arm puller Using long bolts

7. After the withdrawal, you will also have several options for the development of events. Good - the bearing was removed completely, bad - the inner race remained on the shaft. In the latter case, you will have to fool around additionally. It is necessary to remove the brake pads and use a chisel to break the metal ring from its place. Now you can hook it with a puller with two paws or mounts (depending on what is available) and dismantle it. If notches remain after the chisel, they must be smoothed out with a file, otherwise the new bearing may not completely “sit down” in place.

   Repairing damage Mounting option Two-arm puller Using a chisel

8. To install a new part, you need to free up space. You can remove the defective bearing with a special puller or simply knock it out. In the second option, you need to choose a suitable emphasis.
   

   Do not forget to remove the retaining ring before "knocking out" or pressing out.

   You can beat without regret Use a special tool Pull out the retaining ring

9. If at the previous stage there was no point in protecting the bearing, then a new spare part should not be subjected to shock loads. Choose one of three pressing methods:
10. The hardest part is already over, it remains only to collect everything in the correct order. In order not to forget, immediately put the retaining ring in place. To fit the hub onto the shaft, use a spacer that fits the inner race of the bearing. With light blows of the hammer, “put” it in place. Just do not hit hard, the hub should "go in" easily. If not, clean and lubricate the seat.
11. Put the washer in place and tighten the nut by 30. Finally tighten it and tighten it when the wheel is on the ground. The rear hub is not adjustable, so you need to clamp hard, but with the presence of common sense (the wheel should spin freely).

The rear wheel bearing for Lada Grants is a very important element. The importance is due to the fact that it ensures proper rotation of the wheel. As a result of its operation, the bearing experiences significant loads, therefore wear-resistant materials are used in its manufacture. However, no matter how durable materials are used, over time, the part fails.
Due to the high importance of the node, its replacement is mandatory already at the first signs of a malfunction.

Signs of a malfunctioning rear wheel bearing on the Grant

In order to replace the element in time, it is necessary to know the symptoms that indicate its inoperability. Below are some of the most common:

1. Vibration while driving. Vibration can be felt both in the car body and in the steering wheel while driving. When such signs appear, a thorough diagnosis and (or) replacement of the assembly is immediately carried out.
2. The appearance of a specific hum, crunch when moving. Such sounds indicate mechanical damage, destruction of the hub mechanism (spherical elements).

Causes of breakdowns

Below are the 2 most common causes of element failure:

1. Loss of tightness of the bearing. The fact is that in the body of the product there is a certain amount of lubricant to reduce the friction of the internal elements among themselves. Lubrication is retained by special protective covers made of rubber or plastic. Accordingly, these materials break down over time, which leads to a gradual loss of lubrication and failure of the hub element.
2. Great production resource. No matter how carefully you operate your car, over time, most of the components and elements become unusable. Each part has its own lifespan. The bearing is no exception, the performance of which is about 60 thousand kilometers. In some cases (regular or periodic driving through pits, under conditions of increased wear), the element fails much earlier than the above indicators.

How to change the rear hub bearing Lada Granta

The work associated with the removal, installation of the element will require special tools, namely:
- special hub puller;
- chisel;
- a snap ring remover (or pliers with round ends);
- head on "30", or a key of the same dimension;
- vice;
- a puller for pressing in, pressing out bearings;
- a screwdriver with a flat end.

So, let's get started, below are 14 detailed stages of work:

1. We dismantle the plastic protective cap from the rear wheel.
2. Move the gear lever to the "1st gear" position. In order for the car not to roll away under the front wheels, we put supports.
3. Weaken the tightening torque for the hub nut (it is most convenient to use a long lever). Slightly unwind, loosen the bolts holding the wheel.
4. With the help of a reliable jack, we raise the back side of the car, where the bearing actually changes.
5. We unscrew the nuts and remove the rear wheel from the studs. Dismantle the brake drum.
   
6. Unscrew and remove the hub nut, take out the thrust washer.
   
7. We take the previously prepared puller in our hands and gently press the hub from the axle.
8. Now we take the hub, install and clamp it with a vise. Remove the retaining ring (use a puller).
   
9. Press the bearing out of the rear hub. Then, using a brush with a metal bristle, we clean the inside of the hub from dirt. We press the new product back. Do not forget to correctly install a special retaining ring.
10. Taking advantage of the opportunity, we clean the elements of the brake system from rust and dirt.
11. We put the hub back on the axial element. We return the brake drum to its place and put the wheel back on.
12. Tighten the wheel bolts. We release the raised part of the car until the wheel is confidently in contact with the ground.
13. Tighten the hub nut firmly with a wrench with a long lever (or a special hub wrench). Replace the protective plastic cap.
14. In order to check the result of the work performed, we start the car engine and start moving.

This completes the replacement of the rear wheel bearing (Grant fret). As you can see, the process is not too complicated. All you need is a good specialized tool and some free time.

No vehicle component is subjected to such a load as the chassis. Hence the large number of faults. A good example of this is the rear wheel bearing. According to the plan and calculations of the designers, it must serve regularly for at least 100,000 km. run. But domestic roads and improper operation make their own adjustments. Very often the bearing fails without having served even half of the resource.

In this case, you can not pull with a replacement. It's not even that a bad bearing will cause an even more serious malfunction. In this case, we are talking about security. No need to think that such complex repairs can only be done in a car service. It is quite possible to replace the rear wheel hub bearing yourself.

Symptoms and Causes

Consider how to check the rear wheel hub bearing. Unlike many others, this fault can be localized with almost 100% accuracy. And by virtue of this, it is not only experienced, but also novice motorists, if you know the characteristic signs. The main ones are:

• Extraneous noise while driving. It is often mistakenly confused with the "howl" of the box, but in this case the sound does not disappear even when switching to neutral.
• An unpleasant sound is especially noticeable in the back seat, from the side of the faulty wheel;
• When cornering, a clear braking of the faulty side is felt, and in especially severe cases, clicks are heard;
• Wheel heating while driving.

All these are indirect symptoms, upon hearing which the motorist should be alert and conduct a more detailed check. To do this, using a jack, hang a supposedly faulty wheel. Now you need to unroll it well.

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A hum is heard - bad, but not yet fatal. Grasping the wheel with your hands from above and below, you need to shake it vertically. If there is play - the bearing is in a landfill.

What is it coming from? Surprisingly, only a third of the bearings "die" from the natural wear of metal parts. The remaining two-thirds are due to the following reasons:

• Manufacturing defects;
• Severe operating conditions. For example, constant driving on country roads at high speed;
• Lack of timely service. As a rule, lack of lubrication and dust and dirt on the bearing;

In addition, there is another reason - incorrect installation during a previous repair. However, this can be easily avoided if, before self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing, study the sequence of work in advance and focus on some details.

Do-it-yourself rear wheel hub bearing replacement

Any repair of the running gear of the car cannot be called simple. Not because it requires special education and special skills. The difficulty, first of all, lies in the complexity of the repair. Removing some parts requires decent effort and a lot of patience.

We must be prepared for this in advance. You can’t drive a car with a half-disassembled rear hub into a service. If the determination is not lost - first of all, you need to stock up on a tool.

Tools and accessories

To change the rear wheel hub bearing with your own hands, you will need:

• Jack and suitable wooden support;
• The socket wrench, as a rule, is 30 and a suitable piece of pipe, as an amplifier for the crank;
• Key 12, for disc guides;
• balloon wrench;
• Round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Universal puller. You can do without it, but this requires some experience. Therefore, it is better to buy it, it is also suitable for the front hub bearing.
• Mount.
• And, of course, a new bearing. It does not need to be taken out of the package ahead of time to prevent dirt from entering.

How to change the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110: sequence of actions

First you need to break the wheel bolts, and raise the car with a jack.

Attention, in no case should work be carried out on a car installed on one jack, it is imperative to additionally use a wooden stand of suitable dimensions.

This is due to the great effort that will have to be applied in the process of work. A car on a jack will be very unstable. The further course of action is as follows:

• The bolts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed;
• Now you can remove the hub boot.
• The wheel guides are unscrewed. Sometimes this is not easy to do, they "sour" in aluminum. The main thing here is not to disrupt the edges, so there is no need to rush;
• Next, the brake drums are removed. It all depends on how long they haven't been filmed. Sometimes they are dismantled "by hand", and sometimes you have to knock with a hammer, through a tree, from the back. There is another way. The guides are screwed into special holes. It must be borne in mind that the pins cannot be used to remove the discs, this will lead to the destruction of the aluminum thread. You can only twist them to a slight stretch, and then try to knock the disk through the tree. Should help.
• The hub nut is unscrewed. You'll have to try - it is twisted very tightly. Therefore, the collar is reinforced with a piece of a suitable pipe. Care must be taken as the vehicle will wobble.
• The hub is removed. Here, of course, it is better to use a three-legged puller. However, not everyone has it, so you have to use the "proletarian" method. It consists in the following. A wheel is installed on the hub and bolted, but not completely, but so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the disk and the hub. Thus, a kind of reverse hammer is obtained. With a few sharp jerks of the wheel, the hub can usually be removed. And that's already half the battle.
• Using round nose pliers inserted into the corresponding holes, the retaining ring is removed.
• The old bearing is pressed out or simply knocked out with a universal puller;
• The axis of the hub is carefully examined. Sometimes the clip of the old bearing remains on it. It needs to be removed. The bearing is removed, you can proceed to install a new one. But first you can inspect the working brake cylinder. If it has leaks, you will have to change it so as not to remove the drum again later.
• The axle and hub are inspected for damage, cleaned of dust, dirt and rust, and lubricated with Litol type grease.
• The new bearing is pulled out of the package, its cage is also easily lubricated along the seat;
• Using a universal puller, the bearing is installed in place. In the absence of a tool, the bearing can be pressed in with a vise. In this case, the clip of the old one is used as a mandrel. It is not recommended to hammer the bearing with a hammer, this can lead to its destruction.
• Now you can install the retaining ring;
• Carefully, using a mandrel or a pipe of suitable diameter, with light blows, the hub is put in place;
• Fixed with a nut;
• The brake drum is put in place, the guides are twisted;
• The wheel is spinning. For the sake of interest, it is worth trying to shake and twist it. There will be no extraneous sounds and backlash.

How to change the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2110 video

Outcome

After removing the car from the stands and the jack, you can test it on the go. The enjoyment of silence and satisfaction from the work done will be provided. And most importantly, now there is confidence in the reliability and safety of your car.

The service life of wheel bearings should have a fairly high mileage (at least 100,000 km). But the condition of our roads can lead to a rather early replacement of the hub bearing on the VAZ 2109, 2110.

How to determine the need for replacement?

Strong noise, the rumble of the bearing of the rear hub VAZ 2109, 2110, the “howl” from behind, which intensifies when cornering, clearly indicates the need to check the condition of the rear hubs. The verification methods are quite simple:

• be sure to lock the wheel, diagonally opposite from the side of jacking, it is necessary to hang out each rear wheel in turn. (Why each? The fact is that very often there are errors with determining the side of the hum, and even more often there is a need to replace both bearings).
• with the wheel raised, you need to try to spin it as much as possible. If at the same time you hear extraneous sounds similar to a hum, you can not check further - a replacement is necessary.
• if in doubt, you can still check the lateral play of the bearing by taking the edges of the wheel and shaking it towards you - away from you. If at the same time you feel the movement of the wheel on the axle, the bearing needs to be replaced.

In car dealerships, you can be offered both a separate bearing and a complete hub. We see no point in purchasing a complete assembly (except in the cases described below), where replacing the bearing is not at all a difficult matter.

A phased method for replacing the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2109, 2110

1. stop the car in front;
2. tear off the wheel bolts;
3. we tear off the central nut (7) of the hub, having previously removed the cap (9);
4. we jack up the side and expose the “tragus”;
5. remove the wheel
6. fill the landing site of the WD-40 brake drum or other special liquids (you can use diesel fuel or brake fluid);
7. unscrew the guide bolts (preferably lightly tap with a hammer);
8. we are trying to carefully remove the brake drum (if it doesn’t work, we screw the appropriate bolts into a special thread on the brake drum, make an interference fit and try not to knock it out with a hammer. In most cases, the result will be positive. There are special drum pullers on sale, this is just in case if all else fails);
9. we completely unscrew the central nut (there is, of course, the possibility to unscrew it immediately, and even remove the hub along with the wheel and drum, but then there is a high probability of damage to the brake pads);
10. we tighten the hub (if one of the inner races of the bearing remains on the axis, it is necessary to use a puller or just a sharpened chisel to try to move it);

• we inspect the axle for traces of turning the bearing (if there is, we change it, it is advisable to replace the hub assembly);
• inspect the brake cylinder for leakage, pads for wear;
• remove the retaining ring from the hub using round nose pliers and/or screwdrivers.

• be sure to clean the edge from rust, moisten it with WD-40 or whatever is at hand.

There are three options for pressing the bearing:

1. Special press (not everyone has it).
2. Puller (it is not expensive, you can buy it, it will come in handy for the future).
3. Using a heavy hammer (at least 2 kg) or a sledgehammer. At first glance, the method may seem a little aggressive, but it is practiced by the vast majority of craftsmen and service stations, and we will consider it.

• the hub must be well installed on a hard surface, and with a few sharp blows through the mandrel to move the bearing from its place. When this happens, you need to install the hub, for example, on a yew (so that there is an emphasis for the hub and free space for the bearing to exit)

• a few more blows and the bearing will come out (do not rush to throw it away);
• we inspect the landing plane for the bearing, clean the rust with sandpaper, lubricate with ordinary engine oil (you can work out);
• the new bearing must be twisted with any suitable bolt through the washers (the washers must be selected according to the inner races, the bearing is double-row and it is likely to be disassembled during installation);
• install the hub on a hard surface.

- we put a twisted bearing on top, lightly lubricate its mounting plane with oil (a new good bearing inside usually does not need to be lubricated, but if you have doubts and a little experience in assembling and disassembling, you can put Litol grease -24)

- with an ordinary 500-gram hammer, very lightly, we are trying to align the bearing in the plane;

- we take a suitable mandrel (for example, a mount), and try to press in the bearing with gentle blows.

The basic rule is no strong blows, if it doesn’t go, then it’s crooked

- after the bearing has passed halfway, you can already apply a little force, since it can no longer skew it.

When we reach the cut of the hub, it is necessary to use the old clip as a mandrel (no strong blows, the metal is high-carbon, with a strong blow it can burst and cause a very serious injury)

- we finish it all the way and put the stopper (if there are problems with installing the stopper, then most likely you did not finish it to the end) the stopper should easily spring in the groove;

Assembly

- that's it, we begin the process of assembling the rear hub bearing on the VAZ 2109, 2110. To do this, we put the hub on the axle (by removing the bolt with which we tightened the clips);

- we twist and tighten the central nut (we must install a new one), not forgetting to put the thrust washer;

- dress and fasten the brake drum and wheel;

- check the rotation (there should be no extraneous noise);

- if everything is fine, we lower the car from the jack;

- tighten the wheel and the central nut (the tightening torque of the hub is about 20 kg / m, this is a rather strong tightening, if there is no torque wrench, you need to tighten the nut with a lever of at least a meter with a force twice that of the wheel tightening force);

- tighten the hub nut, tighten the wheels.

When moving, different parts of the car experience certain loads. They can be from road roughness, its slope, wind resistance and others. In order for people in the car to feel comfortable, all these loads must be balanced. Wheel bearings are one of such elements for balancing loads.

Rear wheel hub assembly.

They are nodes that work to maintain the supporting parts of the transport.

The bearing allows the car to roll freely on the road. It also participates in the transmission and reduction of the load on the rest of the machine. The bearings allow the wheels to rotate freely.

These bearings are front and rear. During their entire service life, they bear heavy loads, and therefore often fail and require replacement. Bearings can experience stress not only when driving on a bad road, but also when starting or stopping a car, and therefore the risk of wear is quite high.

When should you change?

During the operation of the car in the bearing, a natural process of wear of parts and aging of the lubricant occurs.

Bearing failure is not a serious problem. But this gives a lot of trouble to the owner of the car. When driving, a car with a bad bearing will make noise.

The main causes of bearing failure are:

1. Incorrect bearing installation and unadjusted clearance.
2. Movement damage.
3. Insufficient bearing lubrication.

Checking the operation of the bearing

If it happens that the bearing began to make unpleasant sounds, it is worth checking the part before replacing it. After a thorough diagnosis, a decision can be made on the need for repair.

It's easy to check: you need to raise the car and spin the wheel. If there is no noise, then the part is OK. When there is noise when the wheel rotates, the bearing needs to be changed.

Tools and working materials

To carry out the work you will need:

Replacement algorithm

Such work can be done on your own, but here you have to work hard.

Before you lift the wheel, you need to “break off” the hub nut - this is easy to do with a 30 head, a powerful wrench and a pipe. Do not forget to straighten the jammed side of the nut first!

Process:

1. The car is jacked up and the wheel is removed from it from the right side.

   

   In addition to the jack, be sure to substitute a reliable backup.

2. The brake drum is dismantled.

   

   We unscrew the studs and remove the drum.

3. The hub is unscrewed with a key. Here you need to use a puller, but you can work without it.
4. The retaining ring that holds the bearing in its seat is removed and the bearing itself is knocked out.
5. Then a new part is put in and lubricated. Pressing is carried out with a puller or a hammer with a wooden lining.

   

   In order not to damage the bearing during pressing, only the outer race should be acted upon. Don't forget the retaining ring!

6. Next is assembly.

   

   After the hub nut is completely tightened, we jam the side with a wrench.

It is worth noting that for the durability of the bearing, all work must be done carefully. If you make a mistake, it can cause serious consequences.

If you do not follow the installation rules, the life of the bearing can be halved.

Conclusion

As can be seen from the above, such work can be done on your own. But in this work you need to be careful. That is why, if there are no skills in this matter, it is worth contacting the service station so as not to waste your money on the purchase of a new part and the time spent on work.