How does a car heater work? Installation of autonomous heaters Installation of a car stove

17.10.2019

The interior heater is one of the most important devices in the car during the cold season. The comfort of travel directly depends on it, and even the most severe motorists fix malfunctions of the “stove” in the first place. How does this device work?

There are two types of interior heaters: those powered by the engine cooling system and those operating by burning fuel in a separate device. Gasoline stoves are completely outdated and are no longer used as the main heater. However, they did not disappear completely, but formed the basis of autonomous heaters, which are widely used in freight transport.

Salons of passenger cars are heated exclusively by the engine cooling system. The general principle of operation of such a heater is simple: the coolant takes heat from the engine and, passing through the “stove” radiator, gives it to the passenger compartment. Consider a typical heater in detail.

heater radiator

A radiator is installed inside any car heater. This is a real radiator, very similar to the one installed between the headlights, only small. It also has cooling channels and fins and hot antifreeze or antifreeze circulates through it. The heater radiator is installed in a housing made of heat-resistant plastic.

The flow of hot coolant from the engine passing through the radiator can be regulated by a tap, as was done, for example, on the VAZ classic. The tap regulated the flow, in much the same way as it happens in a conventional home mixer, and, due to this, the air temperature in the cabin was regulated. This is an extremely slow and very inaccurate method. Therefore, in modern heaters there are no taps on the radiator and the coolant circulates inside it constantly.

The temperature of the air from the stove is controlled by an air damper.

air damper

If only a hot radiator was included in the car "stove", there would be little sense from it. Yes, hot air rises, but, in the case of a car, this is clearly not enough. For example, defrosting the windshield would have to wait several hours. To speed up the heating of the passenger compartment, it is necessary that additional air pass through the heater radiator and preferably under pressure.

This air is taken from two places: from the street or from the cabin. Read about air intake from the passenger compartment below in the Air recirculation section, and here we will consider how street air gets into the heater.

In order for air from the street to enter the heater, a special air intake is provided, which in most cars is located in the “wipers” area. Through this channel, air enters the heater housing and ... Then there are two "extreme" options: air either goes through a hot radiator, or bypasses it. It is also possible to mix these options in any proportions. What does it mean?

In front of the radiator, in the air channel, a damper is installed, the position of which determines how much air will go through the radiator, and how much will bypass it. It is due to the position of this damper that the temperature of the air from the stove in modern heaters is regulated. That is, the temperature is determined not by the amount of hot liquid in the radiator, but by the amount of air heated from the passage through the radiator.

Air recirculation

The intake of air from the cabin is called recirculation. This function is available on all modern cars, but is not available on many old Russian models, but in vain. Recirculation is essential when driving through dusty or smoky areas, and also helps to warm up the interior faster.

The meaning of recirculation is that the heater does not take air from the street, but from the passenger compartment through a special, additional channel. An additional damper is installed between the channels, depending on the position of which one of the channels is closed. Thus, when the street channel is blocked, already heated cabin air enters the heater, which helps to create comfortable conditions for people faster.

The recirculation mode is turned on on the dashboard with a button or a slider. In the first case, a rather tricky system works, which includes an electric valve and a vacuum actuator that moves the damper. In the second, everything is simpler - the slider moves the lever and moves the recirculation damper through the flexible rod.

If, when driving fast, street air can enter the heater "by inertia", then when standing, for example, in a traffic jam, this will not happen. It will not get into the “stove” by itself and the air from the passenger compartment with recirculation turned on. For forced air intake and more efficient heating of the passenger compartment, there is a fan in the heater design.

heater fan

There are two types of heater fans in Russian cars: with a real propeller (VAZ "classic") and turbine type. "Propeller" fans have long since become a thing of the past, as weak and unreliable (Read:) and have given way to powerful turbine ones.

A turbine fan is a special wheel with blades of a certain shape, mounted on an electric motor shaft. Rotating, this wheel creates a powerful stream of air going in one direction. In the case of a car heater, this direction is towards the radiator.

The heater fans have several rotation speeds, which are selected by the driver on the “stove” control panel. In the simplest case, the fan speeds are switched by a rotary switch, at least four positions (“off” and three rotational speeds). Although there are quite primitive options with a three-position button without backlight and any amenities.

Fan speeds are generated by resistors. The switch on the dashboard supplies current to the fan motor in such a way that at any speed, except for the maximum, the motor is connected through the appropriate resistor. These simple devices reduce the current passing through them, and the motor shaft rotates more slowly. At the last, maximum, speed, the fan is connected directly (bypassing the resistor block) and, accordingly, rotates and blows at full strength.

Air ducts and air distribution system

Junction box and air ducts of the heater VAZ-2110

In order for the air from the heater to effectively enter the windshield, front door windows, into the area of \u200b\u200bthe legs of the driver and passengers, and even heat the rest of the cabin, it is necessary to bring air as close as possible to these “targets” and evenly distribute it. This is done through an advanced air duct system hidden under the torpedo.

Air ducts are solid or prefabricated plastic pipes that are assembled into a single system. The air that has passed through the hot radiator or bypassed it enters this system and its further movement is determined by the distribution damper or several dampers.

The control of these dampers is located on the dashboard in the form of a rotary switch (or ancient sliders with levers). The dampers can be mechanical (with the help of flexible rods), vacuum (when the dampers are moved by vacuum actuators operating from a vacuum in the engine intake manifold) or electric (with the help of electric motors).

Depending on which mode the driver selects, the flaps assume such a position that the air from the heater goes, for example, only to the windshield or to the windshield and legs, or in some other combination.

Air ducts end with deflectors. These are the same grilles on the dashboard, from where the air blows. Modern deflectors are quite complex and interesting devices. As a rule, each such “lattice” has a whole set of functions: you can change the direction of the air horizontally and vertically, the force of the air pressure, or even completely block the air path by “turning off” the deflector! All this is done with wheels / levers from below or on the sides of the deflector. Accordingly, the direction of the air changes due to the rotary vanes and the change in the position of the deflector itself, and its “turning off” - by closing an individual small damper, which tightly blocks the path of air from the heater to the outlet of the corresponding deflector.

All this together gives the widest possibilities for creating a comfortable microclimate in the cabin.

Climate control and other features

This article discusses the simplest "basic" automobile "stove". This principle is the basis of any heater, but it can be added and complicated by the introduction of additional devices, such as an air conditioner.

In this case, the “stove” is capable of not only heating, but also effectively cooling the interior. And the addition of an electronic component allows you to implement the climate control function. In general terms, climate control is implemented by sensors that determine the temperature in the cabin and send appropriate signals to the electronic unit. Depending on these signals, the unit controls the same shutters itself, using electric drives. And he does it in such a way as to constantly maintain the temperature set by the driver. That is, it is enough for a person to choose the temperature and the blowing mode, and the car will do the rest.

All cars of the Classic family from AvtoVAZ were equipped with a ventilation and interior heating system. In many ways, they were similar in design and simple, since they did not use today's air conditioners. And although it is impossible to wait for coolness in the Classics salon in the summer, the heating system will not let you freeze in winter.

The heating system of the VAZ 2104, like the rest of the models of the family, was produced from a liquid cooling system of the power plant. To be clear, this system includes two radiators in which heat is removed from the coolant passing through them.

But one of the radiators is the main one, it regulates the temperature of the liquid, so the heat from it is removed to the environment so that the heat exchange is carried out efficiently. It is installed in front of the car, under the grille.

The second radiator - provides interior heating. It also produces heat exchange with heat transfer to the air, but this air is supplied to the passenger compartment, and this ensures its heating.

But this radiator is small in size, therefore, for effective heating of the cabin, a whole system is used that provides forced air supply to the radiator, the removal of already heated air to a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe cabin, while it is possible to shut off the supply of heated fluid to the radiator of the stove VAZ-2104. After closing, the system can continue to work, providing cold air to the passenger compartment - this is provided by the cabin ventilation system in summer.

The design of the heating and ventilation system

For clarity, a diagram of the VAZ-2104 stove is provided

So under position 1 there is a resistor for changing the fan speed. The base of the stove consists of a fan housing 2 and blower fan guide 3 . They are connected to the upper part of the body with brackets. 4 . The top of the case is the radiator shroud 5 . An air intake hatch is installed on top of it. 6 .

The radiator is located inside the upper part. 8 , and for the density of its fit, a foam pad is used 7 . This radiator is connected to the cooling system through metal pipes. 9 . A valve 10 for supplying liquid to the radiator is installed on the inlet pipe.

The stove fan consists of an impeller 11 and electric motor 12 . The fan is attached to the case with a bracket 13 , and to eliminate its vibration, it is pressed with a pillow 14 .

On the lower part of the body there are dampers for supplying warm air to the front doors 15 , as well as a cover for air supply to the leg area 16 .

But this is only the design of the stove, in order for the VAZ 2104 interior to be heated properly, additional mechanisms are attached to it.

The following pictures show the rest of the system

The design of the heating system VAZ 2104

Heating system side view

Under the notation 1 And 2 left and right ducts shown with left 4 and right 5 nozzles. Position 3 points to the windshield duct. Control Panel - 6 , with crane control handles 9 , inlet cover 10 control and side and windshield heating controls 11 . under position 12 the air distribution cover lever is located.

Next are the elements of the stove itself: 13 – fan housing with impeller 14 and electric motor 15 , windshield flap 16 , fan speed control resistor 17 , fan housing guide 21 , fluid control valve 22 , radiator housing 23 , radiator 25 with gasket 24 , fastening elements of the air intake cover 26 .

Position 18 – control rod for the side heating damper, 19 - side window heating damper, 27 – heater draft, 28 - air intake grille, 29 - car hood 30 - air box 31 - windshield.

Heating scheme

Air flow diagram of the heating system VAZ-2104

Cold air is supplied into the heating system through the air intake grille 28 installed near the windshield from outside the car. Further heating of the VAZ-2104 can be carried out in three directions, which are selected by the control system:

1 – Heated windshield, this direction is marked in red. With this scheme, air enters through the hatch 7 into the airbox 30 for cleaning from dust and drops of water. Then it moves through the radiator 25 where it removes heat from the coolant, as well as the fan housing 13 from where it enters the windshield heating duct 3 .

2 – heated side windows in front, this direction is marked in blue. Here, air also enters through the hatch into the box, then into the radiator casing 23 , and then enters the left and right air ducts 1 And 2 .

3 - heating of the legs, this direction has a green designation. Air enters the passenger compartment, as in other directions, but after the radiator casing, it enters the internal ventilation duct 8 .

System management

At the VAZ-2104, the interior heating is controlled by the control panel handles, each of which ensures the closing and opening of one or another element.

Yes, top handle. 9 provides opening and closing of the radiator valve 22 . It regulates the amount of fluid that will enter the radiator.

Medium handle 10 the hatch cover 7 of the air inlet is opened and closed, which regulates the amount of fresh air supplied from outside the car.

Lower handle 11 regulates the position of the damper 16, which distributes the air flow through the air ducts.

There is one feature of the airflow distribution control. At damper position 16 on blowing the windshield, the side window heating flaps are completely blocked. And vice versa, when the flow is blocked by a damper on the windshield, the air is directed only to the side windows.

This phenomenon is due to the fact that the windshield damper lever is connected to the side air duct damper lever. Therefore, to simultaneously heat the windshield and side windows, the damper control knob must be set to the middle position.

Heating VAZ-2104 is produced in 4 ways:

Windshield heating (Middle and lower handles of the control panel are moved to the right as far as they will go);
Heated side windows (the middle handle is moved to the right, and the bottom handle is turned to the left as far as it will go);
Heated legs (upper handle - to the right as far as it will go, the air distribution cover of the heater housing is lowered down);
Hot air supply from the outside through the lowered windows (it seems like a joke, but this is indicated in the technical documentation for the car);

This car also provides exhaust ventilation, to remove air from the passenger compartment. Unfortunately, there is no scheme for this ventilation specifically for the VAZ-2104, but it is identical to the VAZ-2105 model, which is presented below:

So, 1 is the car heating system, 2 - a decorative grille, a rubber valve is hidden under it 3 through which air can escape when the windows are closed. The same valve prevents dust and moisture from entering the cabin.

Proper control of the heating and ventilation system VAZ-2104

Correct control depends on the weather outside. In the summer, when it's hot and the supply of hot liquid to the radiator is not needed:

The lower handle of the system control panel is moved to the right as far as it will go to open the air intake cover and supply fresh air to the passenger compartment;
The distribution of the air flow is carried out by the middle handle;
To provide more fresh air, you can turn on the fan;

When it's cold outside:

Move the top handle all the way to the right to ensure the supply of hot liquid to the stove radiator;
Turn the nozzles of the side air ducts so that warm air goes to the side windows in the area where the side mirrors are located;
To heat the legs, lower the cover of the heater housing down;

If the windshield is covered with frost and needs to be defrosted quickly:

Move the top handle to the right until it stops for maximum fluid supply to the stove radiator;
Middle handle - all the way to the left to shut off the air supply from outside the car;
The lower handle - to the right until it stops, to ensure that warm air is supplied only to the windshield;

Video - stove VAZ 2104

The heating system of a car for many models is arranged and works on a similar principle. Understanding the principle of turning on and adjusting the speed of the interior heater fan will be very helpful when looking for a malfunction on your own (for example, if you have one).

General air circulation pattern

The intake of air into the passenger compartment is carried out by a fan, which can be installed in the passenger compartment or behind the engine shield. Above the electric motor is located. If heating is required, the air flow passes through the heater core. The stove radiator is connected to the car's cooling system, so when the engine heats up, the circulating liquid from the engine cooling system heats the stove radiator cells. Therefore, passing through the honeycomb, the air flow also becomes warm.

Air flaps

The redirection of air flows for temperature control is carried out by a special damper. Damper control types:

mechanical. The damper drive is connected directly to the switch in the passenger compartment by means of rods and cables. In this case, the driver, moving the regulator, manually doses the temperature of the incoming air;
electronic. The damper is equipped with a servo drive. The electric motor changes the position of the damper, receiving commands from the control unit. This scheme is used on cars with air conditioning. It is enough for the driver to set the desired temperature in the cabin in the on-board computer, after which the electronic control unit, focusing on temperature sensors, will control the air damper servo.

Channels leave the stove fan into the cabin, through which air can be supplied to the windshield, to the legs or through the central deflectors. Depending on the scheme of operation, the modes can be either combined or single, when all the intake air is supplied to only one zone. Mode switching can be carried out mechanically or with the help of a servo drive and a control unit. The mechanical method involves the direct connection of the air dampers to the switch on the dashboard. The electric damper drive allows you to control them by pressing a button, as well as to realize automatic control of the electronic unit of the interior air conditioning system.

recycling

In recirculation mode, the main air damper closes, after which the stove fan begins to take air from the passenger compartment. This mode of operation allows you to block the access of unpleasant odors and polluted air from the street, if, for example, you are driving behind a car on a dusty gravel road.

In winter, the recirculation mode allows you to warm up the car interior faster, since not frosty, but warm cabin air passes through the heater radiator. Accordingly, in the summer, recirculation simplifies the cooling process for the air conditioner.

Types of recirculation drive:

How does a stove fan work?

The car interior heating fan is a conventional AC motor. It can be either a simple axial fan or a diametrical version, which is most often installed on modern cars. The device of the inside of the stove fan is no different from the device of a conventional AC motor with excitation from permanent magnets.

Of greater interest to us is the operation of the electric motor at different speeds. This possibility is realized by including additional resistance in the circuit. Resistors increase resistance, which reduces the amount of current flowing in the circuit. Therefore, the fan starts to rotate more slowly. The value of the resistor determines how much current will drop in the circuit. The last fan speed is direct as no resistance is included in the circuit. This allows the heater fan to remain operational even if the resistor fails.

Wiring diagram

The figure shows the simplest circuit diagram for connecting a stove fan. When the positive terminal of the fused switch is closed to terminal H, current flows directly to the motor, causing it to rotate at maximum speed. When the positive contact is closed with the V pin, current flows through the resistance, which reduces the fan speed.

The heater motor of the VAZ 2108, 21099 models already has 3 fan speeds. When the positive output of the mode switch is closed to 1 contact, 2 resistances are connected in series in the circuit, so the rotation speed of the electric motor will be minimal. When power is applied to the second pin of the mode switch, current will flow through one resistor, which will correspond to the average rotation speed. Accordingly, pin 3 is designed to supply power bypassing the additional resistor and corresponds to the fastest rotation speed.

This is the principle of turning on the heater electric motor on most cars. For a better understanding of the scheme, we suggest watching the video.

Automated control system

In the diagram, we still see an additional resistor, only now all commands are transmitted to the electric fan not directly from the speed switch knob, but through the heating system control unit (No. 3). The unit also controls the saloon recirculation solenoid valve and the damper drive micromotor. This scheme uses only one temperature sensor in the cabin, but in more advanced versions there are also intake air temperature sensors, as well as sensors that measure the temperature of the air supplied to the passenger compartment at several points.

The presence of a stove in any car is mandatory, especially when it comes to vehicles used on the territory of the countries of the former USSR. If in the heat the performance of the heating system is not so important, then with the advent of cold weather it is almost impossible to use a car without a stove. What functions does the radiator perform in the heater system, what malfunctions are typical for the stove and how to fix them - you will find the answers in this article.

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Features of the stove device

Depending on the model of the vehicle, the design of the heating system may be different.

A typical stove, in general, has a relatively simple device:

a radiator device that is connected to the cooling system;
stove fan designed to blow the radiator unit;
fan resistor;
oven pump;
systems of branch pipes and blowers, which are used to supply heated air flow to the car interior;
heater tap;
a heating system motor that performs the function of starting the unit;
heater control unit located on the center console of the car in the passenger compartment and designed to control the adjustment of operating modes.

Almost all elements of the system, including the electric crane and the stove engine, are usually located under the center console of the vehicle. In some cars, part of the component nodes is located in the engine compartment.

Principle of operation

Two pipes are connected to the radiator device, through which consumables - antifreeze - enter it. The substance circulates through heating systems, as well as cooling the motor using a pumping device. After the engine warms up to operating temperature, heat exchange occurs - the coolant cools the power unit, taking heat from it, after which the hot coolant enters the radiator assembly.

The latter is heated according to the principle of heating a conventional household battery, after which the ventilating device transmits a cold air flow through it. As a result, heat exchange is carried out again - the radiator assembly transfers heat to the air flow, which, in turn, cools the device (the author of the video is Oleg Krasnoshchekov).

As a result, the warm air flow enters the car interior, and the cooled refrigerant enters the power unit again and cools it down. This version of the heating system is considered one of the most common, as well as effective. In order for the car interior to warm up properly during the cold season, an air flow with a temperature of about 30 degrees must come out of the heater. The power of the stove, as well as the direction of air - to the feet, to the face, to the windshield and side windows - the driver can adjust using the control module located on the dashboard. If you do not blow air on the windshield, then it will begin to fog up, while dirt from the outside can get into the cabin.

The stove itself is an additional radiator unit. In the event that the engine of the machine is not warmed up to the required temperature, then when the heater is activated, additional cooling will be carried out. As a result, this will lead to the formation of corrosive processes on the body of the radiator mechanism, and the power unit will have to warm up longer. In addition, the humidity of the air will also increase, which will lead to fogging of the glasses. That is why the heating system should be turned on only when the engine warms up to at least 50 degrees, or better, to operating temperature, that is, up to about 90 degrees (the author of the video is the Auto Electrician VCh channel).

Possible malfunctions

To diagnose the heater, you just need to turn on the unit and evaluate whether it works efficiently or not. If the efficiency of work is reduced or traces of coolant smudges appear in the car interior, then the unit needs more thorough diagnostics and repair.

What malfunctions are typical for the heater:

Failure of the control module located on the dashboard. It is possible that mechanical damage to the controls has occurred, as a result of which the heater cannot operate in different modes.
The heater core has failed. In the event of a breakdown, this assembly, as a rule, begins to flow, which contributes to the formation of puddles in the passenger compartment, under the front mats (usually under the passenger one).
Leaking electrical or mechanical heater tap. This malfunction also contributes to the leakage of the working fluid, the problem is solved by replacing the part.
Failure of the electric motor. If the motor breaks for some reason, then, as you can understand, the operation of the device will be impossible. As a rule, the electric motor cannot be repaired, so it must be replaced as an assembly.
Failure of the temperature controller, which is usually located in the cabin. This sensor is required for automatic activation of the heating device.
Another reason why the unit will not work efficiently is a coolant leak. If the leak is not related to a broken radiator or faucet, then most likely the cause is worn hoses. Worn fittings should be replaced before adding antifreeze.

Photo gallery "Main malfunctions"

Features of operation and repair of the stove

Since the main element of any heating unit is an electric motor, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the process of replacing it using the example of a VAZ 2110 car.

How to change the electric motor with your own hands:

First of all, it follows, then dismantle the jabot.
The jabot itself should be pushed aside, and then, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws.
By doing this, you can disconnect the wires from the existing electric motor.
Now you just have to remove the old gear motor from the seat and replace it with a new device. Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

As for the main features of operation, in order to prevent breakdowns in the operation of the heater, we recommend that you follow the following rules:

If your vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, then it is best to turn it on in wet weather, as the air conditioner allows you to remove moisture from the passenger compartment.
Never block the blowers that supply air to the passenger compartment, in particular the nozzles located at the bottom and used to blow the legs.
In the cold season, vehicle windows must be thoroughly cleaned from moisture and dirt.
In addition, during the period of frost, experts recommend using two positions for adjusting the stove. If you need to quickly dry the windshield, then the glass blowing is turned on specifically. And when you start moving, it is best to activate the leg blowing mode.

Each car has one important detail that provides comfort - a heater, or simply speaking, a stove. Heat for interior heating is taken from the engine using a heater radiator - read this article about this part, its purpose, device and operation, as well as about malfunctions and repairs.

The device of the heater (stove) of the car interior

The first cars offered their drivers a minimum of comfort - in those days, the very ability to move without the help of horses was a novelty, and there was no need to think about comfort. But over time, cars became more perfect, and engineers began to pay attention not only to the technical characteristics of vehicles, but also to the comfort of the driver and passengers. Therefore, at first, the cars acquired closed bodies that protected from the weather, and later - heating devices that provided comfort when driving in the cold season.

It is no longer possible to imagine a modern car without a stove (heater), especially if the car is operated in Russia. The presence of a heater has become standard, this feature is offered by default on most cars.

Today, in cars and trucks, as well as in small buses (PAZ, old LAZ and the like), heaters are used that take heat from the engine, and it is these most common stoves that will be discussed further. In city buses with a rear engine, electric heaters are more often used to heat the passenger compartment - we will not talk about them here.

A typical heater has a simple design. It consists of a radiator connected to the engine cooling system, a fan that blows the radiator, an air duct system that supplies heated air to the passenger compartment, and a number of control and monitoring devices. The heater components are installed under the front panel of the car, or, in the case of a bus, in the engine compartment.

The heater works as follows. Coolant from the engine water jacket enters the heater core, heating it. The heat from the radiator is taken away by the air flow, which is created by the fan. Further, this flow of heated air through the air ducts enters the cabin. The stove is controlled by changing the fan speed, the position of the damper for supplying outside air to the radiator, the position of the dampers and shutters in the air ducts under the front panel and in the cabin.

The main component of the car heater is the radiator.

The purpose of the heater radiator and its place in the interior heating system

- This is a conventional heat exchanger that provides heat transfer from the coolant to the surrounding air. This radiator is similar to the main radiator of the engine cooling system, it has the same connection diagram and principle of operation.

For the operation of the heater, constant heating of the radiator is required - this is achieved by connecting it to the liquid cooling system of the engine. The heater radiator is connected to the system parallel to the main radiator; for this, special fittings are provided in the engine outlet pipe or thermostat housing, as well as in the pump inlet pipe - hoses for supplying and discharging coolant are connected to them.

It is important to note that the heater radiator is included in the first (small) circuit of the engine cooling system, while the main engine cooling radiator is in the second (large) circuit. That is, when starting a cold engine, the coolant passes only through the engine water jacket and the heater radiator, but does not enter the main radiator. This connection makes it possible to heat the interior immediately after starting the engine.

As in the main radiator of the cooling system, the heater radiator provides the ability to connect a steam outlet pipe connected to the expansion tank. Superheated water and steam are discharged from the heater radiator through this pipe in case of excessive temperature rise.

By the way, why is it impossible to heat the car interior with the heat that is released on the main engine cooling radiator? After all, this heat is free, and it is uselessly released into the atmosphere, although it could be used for heating. The thing is that the air passing through the main radiator is polluted with dust and various impurities, and its supply to the cabin will be harmful. The presence of a separate heater with its own radiator and fan allows you to use a filter to clean the air, as well as easily adjust the air temperature and the intensity of its heating. All this could be implemented on the basis of an engine cooling radiator, however, such a heater would have a more complex design and lower efficiency.

Types of heater radiators

All heater radiators can be divided into several types according to a number of characteristics.

According to the material of manufacture, there are two types of radiators:

aluminum;
. Copper.

Copper radiators are a classic solution that is used less and less today. The fact is that a copper radiator has a much higher cost, and most modern cars are designed and manufactured based on considerations of achieving the lowest cost. However, copper radiators have two indisputable advantages - they have better heat dissipation and are easy to repair (in the event of a leak, such a radiator can be soldered even at home).

Aluminum radiators have a much more affordable cost, and also have a low weight. However, aluminum radiators resist mechanical damage worse and are extremely difficult to repair - it can be restored only with the use of special tools and consumables. Therefore, sometimes it is easier to buy a new aluminum radiator than to repair the old one.

According to the shape of the tubes, radiators are divided into two types:

With round tubes;
. With flat (flattened) tubes.

Round tube radiators are the easiest to manufacture and have the lowest cost, but they have a relatively small surface area and therefore less efficiency. Therefore, in such radiators, special measures are often used to increase their efficiency (for example, the installation of swirlers).

Flat tube radiators have a larger surface area and, as a result, better operating efficiency. However, this is achieved by complicating and increasing the cost of the design.

Finally, heater radiators can be divided into two groups according to the density of the tubes:

Double row radiators;
. Triple radiators.

In two-row radiators, the tubes, as the name implies, are installed in two rows, in three-row ones - in three rows. Double-row radiators have smaller dimensions (small thickness), however, due to the smaller volume, the supplied coolant has time to give off less heat per unit of time. Three-row radiators have more coolant at one time and travel a longer distance, so they work more efficiently.

All heater radiators, regardless of type and purpose, have a fundamentally the same device.

The device and operation of the heater radiator

The basis of the stove radiator is a heat exchanger - a system of parallel tubes connected by a number of transverse plates (or ribs). The plates form the so-called honeycomb, which has a large surface area, which is necessary for more efficient heat removal. The number of tubes and plates, their mutual arrangement and density are selected in such a way as to ensure the most efficient heat transfer with minimal resistance to air passing through this entire structure.

Three tanks are mounted to the right and left of the heat exchanger - inlet, outlet and return tank. The inlet tank is connected to the inlet pipe, it is supplied with hot coolant from the engine and distributed through the heat exchanger tubes. The outlet tank collects the liquid that has passed through all the tubes and outputs it to the outlet pipe. The return tank is needed to reverse the flow of coolant that has passed through the first row of heat exchanger tubes and direct it to the second row of tubes.

Two-row radiators have one inlet and one outlet tank, they are located on one side of the heat exchanger, since the coolant passes through the first row of tubes and returns through the second. There is only one return tank in such a radiator; it is installed on the back side of the inlet and outlet tanks.

In three-row radiators, there is also one inlet and outlet tank, and two return tanks (since here the fluid flow changes its direction twice). In this case, the inlet and outlet tanks are located on opposite sides of the heat exchanger, next to them are the return tanks.

It is the location of the tanks and pipes that helps to quickly distinguish between two-row and three-row radiators:

For double rows, the inlet and outlet are on the same side of the heat exchanger;
. For three-row inlet and outlet pipes are located on opposite sides of the heat exchanger.

In radiators with round heat exchanger tubes, there is one more detail - turbulators (or swirlers) that improve heat transfer between the coolant and the tube walls when the engine is idling. Turbulators are plastic spirals inserted inside tubes (they are often called noodles for their characteristic shape). Due to turbulators, eddies (turbulent flows) are formed in the fluid flow, significantly increasing the volume of fluid in contact with the inner walls of the tubes. On average, swirlers increase the efficiency of the stove at idle by a third, but at higher speeds, these parts practically do not improve the operation of the radiator.

The heater radiator is extremely simple, however, various malfunctions can occur in it.

Malfunctions of radiators and ways to eliminate them

Three types of malfunctions are typical for heater radiators:

channel clogging;
. A leak;
. Cell clogging.

The most serious failure is a leak due to mechanical damage (due to shock or vibration) or corrosion. Most often, a leak occurs at the junction (soldering) of the heat exchanger tubes to the tanks, however, cracks or holes can occur in tubes, tanks, at the junction of the pipe with the tank, etc.

If a leak occurs in a copper radiator, then the problem is solved quickly and at low cost - the radiator must simply be removed and soldered. If an aluminum radiator leaks, then in most cases (especially when it comes to a domestic car), it is easier and cheaper to buy a new radiator. An aluminum heatsink can be soldered or welded, but the cost of this work can be as much as buying a new heatsink, and the leak may soon recur.

Clogging of the radiator channels does not occur immediately, but gradually, and often the radiator has time to leak faster than to become clogged to complete obstruction. A clogged radiator is indicated by a deterioration in the operation of the heater without any changes from other components - the fan, dampers, etc. Deposits on the inner walls of the heat exchanger tubes do not allow the liquid to completely give off heat, and also reduce the volume of liquid passing through the radiator per unit time. You can try to solve this problem with the help of special means for cleaning the engine cooling system, but they do not always work with sufficient efficiency. Therefore, as in the case of a leak, a clogged radiator is easier to replace.

The problem with external clogging of the radiator is most simply solved. Despite the presence of a cabin filter, dust and other contaminants are deposited on the radiator over time, which reduce the patency of the cells and the area of \u200b\u200bthe fins. Also, clogging of honeycombs can occur due to the illiterate use of cleaners for the heater, or when using low-quality products of this type. The malfunction is eliminated by simply cleaning the radiator, however, in most cars, this simple operation can require a lot of time and effort - usually the radiator is located in a hard-to-reach place, and in order to get to it, you have to almost completely disassemble the front panel (dashboard) and remove many parts.

Thus, in most cases, the car owner has to buy and install a new heater radiator. And here it is very important not to make a mistake with the choice.

The main rule for choosing a new heater radiator is very simple - you need to use only the original radiator of the same type that was installed on the car by the manufacturer. However, exceptions are possible here. For example, copper radiators are often installed instead of aluminum, which significantly improves the operation of the heater, increases its durability and maintainability.

When choosing a radiator, you need to pay attention to three things:

The number of plates and the density of their installation;
. Plate strength;
. In radiators with round tubes - the presence or absence of swirlers.

High-quality radiators have a lot of plates and they are installed tightly, in low-quality radiators there are fewer plates, and the distance between them is greater. The very same plates in high-quality radiators have high strength, they are deformed only with relatively strong impacts. In low-quality radiators, the plates often crumple from simple finger pressure - it is easy to imagine how the characteristics of such a radiator will deteriorate during installation and connection.

To check the presence of turbulators, you need to shake the radiator - if there are turbulators, then they will beat against the walls of the tubes with a distinct knock. If the swirlers do not show themselves this way, then they may not exist at all - this is typical for the cheapest radiators, often of dubious origin. However, this method does not always allow you to find out the truth, today turbulators are often made from soft materials, and they simply do not emit a noticeable knock when they hit the walls of the tubes.

With the right choice, the heater radiator will provide the car interior with heat even in the most severe frosts without the risk of breakage. And since in our climate driving without a stove in winter is fraught with the most serious problems (primarily for human life and health), the choice and purchase of a heater radiator should be given the most serious attention.