How to stick soundproofing on the door. Do-it-yourself soundproofing car doors

How to soundproof your car

How to glue the car with sound insulation yourself is an urgent issue for any owner, regardless of the model and brand of the car, in recent years they have been saving on sound insulation, so it is either very weak or completely absent.
The process is not at all complicated, but everyone wants to save money, so it’s only important to know what you can make soundproofing in a car from, have the right tools and read our recommendations and tips, and after that you can do it no worse than the masters of this business.

Rookie Mistakes

The most common mistakes motorists make when soundproofing.

With the choice of the contractor

A mistake when choosing a workshop threatens with poor quality work, a banal loss of money and, as a result, a lack of sound insulation effect, and the most unpleasant thing, in this case, is that you conclude that it does not give any effect

Your presence in the room masters are working on your car

As a rule, masters do not like it when clients constantly poke their nose into their work:

• This is the opinion of most of the masters with whom I personally know.
• When someone constantly stands over your soul and looks under your hands in the process of work, even you can be expected to react very hostilely
• Almost no one likes it when someone constantly asks “will everything be ready soon?”, Gets underfoot, just gets in the way, or starts to give advice, pester with questions, all this distracts, creates an atmosphere of nervousness, respectively, such behavior, as a rule, does not affect the outcome in the best way.

Haste and no plan

When you get really excited about soundproofing and want to do it immediately:

• Starting work without planning will be fraught with a huge loss of time and, of course, money.
• You may have to go several times for a tool that will be missed
• It may happen that you have to redo the work
• Once glued and then torn off, sound insulation is no longer suitable for reuse - again a waste of money
• In addition, the process of soundproofing is a matter that requires a lot of time and effort, so you should take into account the time and effort (you can’t do it in an hour or two), here you will have to be patient, perseverance and hard work, especially if you are a beginner

Wrong choice of materials

This is one of the most common and annoying mistakes, from not knowing how to properly soundproof a car:

• As a rule, good, and even more so high-quality materials always cost good money.
• Here, the habit of saving easily leads to new expenses.
• Not only will they begin to peel off prematurely, which leads to corrosion of the case, the effect of such will be weak, and you can again argue that the noise isolation does not work
• In addition, low-quality materials can be harmful to health, they will poison the air with fumes while in the cabin, and you and passengers will breathe

Error with the choice of sound insulation level

When at first you decide that it is enough just to soundproof the car to a minimum, then it will seem to you that it was necessary to do better, more expensive, thicker, but this, as a rule, is a problem for very economical people and perfectionists

Error with the choice of work location

The Internet is full of descriptions and photos of the do-it-yourself soundproofing process, which are carried out anywhere:

• Right on the street, near the office, on the side of the road, etc.
• Here the problem will be the fact that in the wrong place where you will do your soundproofing, you will either be extremely uncomfortable, the onset of night will catch you at the most inopportune moment
• And the most unpleasant thing is that in this case, something will certainly be stolen from you, right from under your hands, you can lose not only tools, but also interior elements, mobile, radio, DVR, etc.

Using the wrong tools

Let's figure out how to make soundproofing in a car, if all the work is done with just a screwdriver - and disassemble the car and roll in vibration isolation, then it will be at least difficult, although it seems to be real:

• However, if you want to do a quality job (so that something doesn’t fall off later), disassemble / assemble the machine without any problems, then you will need the appropriate tools

Self-doubt

• to block out external noise, and to improve the sound quality of music
• From my own experience, I’ll say that even the most primitive “shumka” of doors gives a wonderful effect, in the cabin the music starts to play noticeably better
• With a minimum program for sizing doors, you will need only one vibration-proof material, a vibroplast vibroplast "silver" or "gold" You need to glue from the inside of the door directly opposite the column
• It is important to glue the largest area with vibration-proof material, the quality of insulation depends on it
• Here, too, it is better to take into account the weight of the material, if the doors are excessively weighted, then over time it will sag and you will have to replace the hinges
• If you have a powerful audio system and you want to improve its sound, then you can’t get off with minimal sizing.
• An integrated approach and at least four layers are required (photo below)

• The first layer is glued on the inside of the doors, where the material is glued through special holes
• You can again use a vibroplast of the silver class, (or bimast bombs) behind the speaker
• And with the second layer - on top of the vibration-isolating material, lay 4 mm splenitis (or Accent)
• Next, soundproof the doors from the outside.
• In this option, it is necessary to completely seal all the technological holes, and make the volume of the door practically airtight, in which the speaker will play
• However, it is worth leaving the drainage holes open so that condensation does not accumulate in the doors.
• Outside, glue with vibroplast of the silver class and over it with an accent or splenitis
• The next step is to soundproof the door cards so that they do not make squeaks and other unnecessary sounds.
• Here you will need the anti-creak material "Bitoplast"
• In this zone, the thicker the layer, the better.
• We perform “crickets” inside the doors and pasting rods and handles with the help of madeleine - this is an anti-creak
• The rear doors are treated the same as the front.
• If they do not have speakers, then we reduce the number of layers and choose the type of material thinner

Let's go to the roof

So:

• We do soundproofing of the roof to reduce external noise from rain, eliminate its vibration, and to remove “crickets”:
• You already understood how to glue a car with soundproofing
• After sizing the ceiling, the effect in the rain is simply amazing - even in heavy rain, only muffled blows do not remain inside the cabin, which are almost imperceptible and do not cause discomfort
• Here you can use vibroplast silver, weight is important, the higher the weight of the roof, the more the center of gravity will shift, we recommend using an accent of 4 or 8 millimeters, even in two layers
• The possibilities are limited so that it is possible to install the ceiling sheathing in place without interference

car bottom

Soundproofing the bottom is done to reduce noise from the road surface, and from impacts from pebbles on the bottom of the car:

• Here you can use the best vibration absorbers and good layers, overlap, just do not glue the fasteners, otherwise there will be problems when assembling the interior
• Top again Accent, better small thickness, but in two layers, here the wider the coverage area, the better the effect
• Close attention should be paid to the places of the wheel arches inside the cabin, it is better to glue them thicker (in two or three layers), use “bimast bombs” as a vibration isolator, in its absence vibroplast gold

Trunk and wheel arches

There are a lot of noises and squeaks in the trunk area, so you should not miss it:

• Particular attention should be paid to the niche of the spare wheel, if possible, it should be completely pasted over with anti-vibration material.
• Second layer sound absorber Accent
• Glue all trims in the trunk with Bitoplast anti-squeak material
• Soundproofing wheel arches is necessary to increase comfort in the cabin

Instructions for actions when soundproofing wheel arches from the outside:

• Take off the wheels
• Remove the plastic fenders (you can’t throw them away, they serve as good sound insulators)
• Then you clean it from dirt and glue vibration-insulating material on the surface of the arch, preferably “gold class vibroplast”
• Ideally, use “liquid” noise insulation of the “Noxidol” type, it is easier to apply and works better, and the weight is less and excellent anti-corrosion protection, along with the arches, you can also process the bottom from the outside

This is how all fender liner are soundproofed

• If you do a good job, then the impact of the pebbles should not be heard at all.

What can replace the sound insulation in the car?
An excellent question, you just have to ask it to local "craftsmen" and you will be given a bunch of advice from building sound insulation to linoleum with felt:

• Construction Shumka is used, as a rule, outside the premises, so inside the cabin it may turn out to be toxic, it may burn or melt in the engine compartment, and the effect of it may not justify hopes
• Felt, even acoustic felt, is hardly suitable in a car, because it itself absorbs moisture, pulls it out of the air, so the car body will quickly rust, then felt is by no means a cheap pleasure
• To use felt in a car, it should be sealed in polyethylene
• We are not talking about the use of other "alternative" materials at all.

I have everything, in addition, watch the video for your specific model.

Soundproofing an apartment is the most important issue that every inhabitant of an apartment building probably thinks about. And if the soundproofing of walls and ceilings does not raise questions, since many articles have already been written about it, then today we will talk about how to make soundproofing doors with our own hands, and below we will give a video of this process.

is a very important issue that worries many homeowners. It is especially relevant for residents of Soviet-style high-rise buildings, because during the construction of these houses, little attention was paid to protecting apartments from extraneous noise. As a result, tiny landings, thin walls and plywood doors left absolutely no chance for a quiet life. There are several ways to change the situation and ensure a comfortable existence. The first is to replace the door with a metal-plastic one, consisting of several layers, one of which is a high-quality sound insulator of varying degrees of conductivity.

The following materials can be used inside modern entrance doors:

• Foamed polyurethane. It is a good sound insulator, it does not let extraneous noise into the room and is characterized by high resistance to fire. The material closely adheres to the door leaf from the inside and does not let in sounds.
• Styrofoam is characterized by a low specific gravity, it protects well from noise, but in case of fire it causes severe smoke.

Advice! Experts advise, if possible, to refuse to buy entrance doors with an internal foam sound insulator, since this material is characterized by a low level of fire safety.

• Mineral wool. Quite with good fire resistance, however, during operation, it absorbs moisture and sags under its weight.
• Corrugated cardboard. This is the cheapest option, however, its soundproofing characteristics leave much to be desired.

Modern models of metal-plastic entrance doors are additionally equipped with special sills and sealing contours, thanks to which the leaf fits snugly against the door frame without any gaps. Expensive models are sheathed from the inside with a layer of artificial leather, which is also a good sound insulator.

Types of soundproofing for entrance doors and methods for its implementation

If it is impossible to replace the doors with better ones, you can make the soundproofing of the old door leaf and door frame yourself. Perform it in several ways.

Arrangement of the vestibule

It's no secret that metal is a poor sound insulator, while the characteristics of wood in this regard are much higher. Therefore, our compatriots often install a double door. The first of them is external, in most cases it is made of reliable and durable metal and protects against the penetration of uninvited guests. The second - internal - is made of wood and is an excellent barrier to all sorts of noises and smells. An air gap is formed between the doors, which acts as a heater.

Each of you has probably seen more than once that a layer of sealant is glued around the entire perimeter of the door frame in new doors. If there are several such contour layers, they are able to provide truly high-quality sound insulation.

There are several types of soundproofing circuits on the modern market:

• silicone - mounted in a slot on the door frame or canvas using a plastic rib.
• Foam rubber contour. It has an adhesive base, thanks to which it is easy to perform independent soundproofing of the front door.
• The magnetic circuit provides a hermetic fit of the doors and, as a result, their good sound insulation.

Advice! Using a soundproof circuit is one of the most affordable and effective ways to soundproof an entrance door, which you can do yourself.

Do-it-yourself soundproofing with upholstery

Not so long ago, a very effective way of soundproofing the front door with the help of its outer finish with a thick layer of batting was especially popular in the vastness of our Motherland. Some craftsmen generally managed to upholster the door leaf with an old blanket, and cover it with leatherette on top. Even now, when asked about which sound insulation is better, they declare with confidence: the one that is made with their own hands and with the help of a thick wadded blanket!

Today, isolon and synthetic winterizer are used as a sound insulator for door upholstery. They are laid in several layers, and covered with leatherette or artificial leather on top - to give the canvas a beautiful appearance.

As alternative options for soundproofing entrance doors, one can consider mounting decorative panels on the canvas, installing rubber thresholds, sealing the gaps that form between the door frame and the walls with concrete mortar.

Interior doors are much thinner in texture than entrance doors, which is not surprising, because they are designed to carve up the space inside an apartment or house. However, this does not mean at all that the issue of sound insulation of such structures is not relevant. If we take a large family, one part of which dreams of a daytime sleep, and the second part dreams of watching a football match with all the ensuing circumstances, it becomes clear that good soundproofing of interior doors is indispensable. But before talking about its types and methods of implementation, let's consider the materials from which the door leaf is made today. So, as materials for doors installed inside the apartment, use:

• natural wood;
• Fiberboard (the most budget option);
• metal;
• plastic;
• mirror and glass plates.

The most popular doors are made of wood-fiber boards (DVP). Their canvas can be solid and hollow, with or without filler, with inserts of glass and other materials. The lowest degree of sound insulation is characterized by doors with glass inserts and hollow door leafs, which in general are a kind of resonators.

Speaking about what material is better for soundproofing interior doors, it should be noted a solid array of natural wood. But through plastic and glass doors, sounds and noises freely penetrate from one room to another.

Today on sale you can find high-quality soundproof doors, which are made according to the principle of a sandwich. If they are mounted in special boxes with automatic rubber thresholds, the sound absorption level can reach 26 dB. True, such a decision is not always justified, because the appearance of such structures is not particularly aesthetically attractive.

Independent soundproofing of interior doors

Professionals assure: if the door between separate rooms within the same apartment is installed correctly, the noise level can be reduced by at least 12 dB. If you also use the best materials for sound insulation, you can even more noticeably reduce the noise level.

Advice! Installing interior doors in accordance with technical standards reduces the noise level by 12 dB.

Stages of soundproofing interior doors

• Seal all the cracks between the wall and the door frame (for this you need to use a sealant).
• Sheathing of the door leaf on the side from which extraneous noise enters the room. The role of the filler in this case can be played by a synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, mineral wool, batting. Leatherette, artificial leather and other materials are used as sheathing. Often, door leafs are sheathed with special sound-absorbing plates, which are glued with mastic and covered with decorative material.
• Sticking a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf, for this you can take a regular profile hollow rubber cord.

Advice! The gap formed between the door leaf and the frame should not be more than 1 cm.

• Installation of a threshold that will prevent the penetration of noise through the gap under the door. Today in stores you can find sills made of a wide variety of materials with a sound-absorbing effect.

Tips for self-soundproofing doors in an apartment or house

If you want to install beautiful interior doors with glass inserts in the apartment, which, by the way, do not differ in special sound insulation, it is better to give preference to models with special soundproof double-glazed windows.

Noise isolation of car doors is just as important as the “shumka” of the entire car. A large amount of unwanted noise from the roadway enters through the doors. After completing this process, you will see:

• reduction of external sounds, most of which are created by passing cars;
• doors close much quieter due to the increase in their mass;
• improving the sound of audio systems.

Do not forget about the disadvantage, which is the sagging of the door due to an increase in its weight, after vibration and sound insulation.

Choice of materials for noise and vibration isolation

Vibration-absorbing materials are used to reduce "structural noise" - the sounds that result from the vibration of the metal elements of the car, namely:

• engine;
• transmissions;
• suspension elements.

This will give you a good result. These materials have an adhesive base, which allows you to install quite quickly and without the use of additional tools. Also, this adhesive has sealing properties to protect metal parts of the body from corrosion.

All these materials are made on the basis of bitumen or mastic with or without aluminum foil:

Sound-absorbing materials are used to isolate extraneous sounds. They are based on a foamed (porous) canvas - polyethylene. Depending on the properties and qualities of this insulator, they are available with or without a foil coating. "Accent" (open-cell structure) and "isotone" (coated with a metallized film) are the main representatives of this group.

The "pluses" include high thermal insulation properties, since noise and sound insulating substances have low thermal conductivity.

Soundproofing materials are necessary to isolate the car from external noise. They are a secondary material and are used after vibration isolators. The main representatives of the sound insulator, which are based on polyethylene foam and an adhesive base, are:

• barrier;
• vibrotone;
• splenitis

Soundproofing car door frame

Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is a process that does not take much time. For him, you need to be patient and a small number of tools:

• a set of screwdrivers for parsing the door trim;
• building hair dryer;
• construction knife or scissors;
• degreaser/solvent;
• rolling roller;
• noise and vibration insulating material.

Proper sound insulation of car doors

You also need to decide which "Shumka" to choose. It depends on what result you want to achieve:

• improve audio quality;
• removal of squeaks and vibrations of metal body elements for greater comfort.

From the above, it will depend on what kind of soundproofing of car doors will be used:

• minimum;
• standard;
• maximum.

Consider a variant of standard door processing. For him it is necessary:

• disassemble the door, namely, remove the door trim, protective film (if any) in order to gain full access to all necessary surfaces;
• further, treat the internal surfaces with a solvent or degreaser so that they do not leave grease, dirt and moisture;
• after that, the first layer of vibration-insulating material of vibroplast M1 is glued on the inside of the door;
• the next stage of the work is the application of a layer of sound insulation. It can be splenitis or accent.

• technological openings on the door are sealed with a cut-out of the required shape with a slight overlap of aluminum foil ("Viek");
• after that, vibration isolation (vibroplast M1) is glued onto the aluminum foil. The result is one glued surface consisting of two layers.

When performing all operations, the main thing is not to disturb the correct operation of all rods and cables, as well as electrical wiring.

Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is the choice of most car owners.

The fact is that such work is quite simple and does not require complex technical skills. The procedure is carried out to reduce external noise and vibrations of the body of the car itself, inevitable during operation. The latter is especially true if you plan to install a powerful audio system in the car.

What material to choose

Modern industry produces a variety of materials for noise and vibration isolation. Some car owners prefer to use cheaper industrial materials, but they usually do not withstand prolonged intense vibration. Therefore, specialized absorbent materials intended for use in motor vehicles are a priority choice. All of them are divided into two large groups:

1. noise absorbers;
2. vibration dampers.

The structure of noise absorbers (vibroton, splenitis) is cellular. In this case, the cells are not arranged in even rows, but randomly. Sound waves, falling into them, scatter and subside. Additional insulation is an aluminum coating of materials.

Vibration dampeners (vibroplast, vizomat) are represented by heavy compounds based on bitumen and foamed polymers. Noise and vibration isolation of car doors is ensured by a tight fit of the layer of polymer material to the metal and damping of natural vibrations.

Proper sound insulation of car doors involves the use of both types of insulation. In this case, the thickness of the layers and the places of their application depend on the required level of sound absorption. So, if the work is carried out in order to somewhat reduce the level of noise penetrating from the street, an average or minimal protective coating is sufficient. To install audio systems, protection from extraneous sounds must be maximum.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you should prepare the car: remove the door trim, protective films, remnants of the old sound insulation or anti-corrosion coating. In general, there is no need to remove the mechanisms of power windows and door locks. However, to ensure comfortable working conditions, it is recommended to do so.

The internal surfaces of the doors are cleaned of dirt and dust. Areas where rust is present are cleaned to bare metal. Taking into account the fact that such places are hidden from view, they can be treated with a rust converter and anti-corrosion mastic. It is impossible to mount sound insulation on rusty areas.

Before starting the installation of sound insulation, all surfaces on which materials will be glued should be degreased with special compounds, gasoline or alcohol. Pasting begins only after complete drying of the surfaces.

Soundproofing installation

In the maximum version, the first layer of vibration isolation is glued to the inner surface of the outer layer of the door. The material is recommended to be glued in long strips, with a slight overlap on each other. The entire accessible surface is glued.

The second layer is glued noise absorber. It should be mounted in the widest possible layers. The result is a two-layer coating that dampens vibration and captures sound waves.

For better insulation, the inner layer of the door is treated in the same way. At the same time, technological holes in the doors are sealed with special aluminum foil, on top of which layers of material are applied. When processing, it is necessary to take into account the trajectory of the movement of the cables and lock drives.

The door trim itself is also processed. All its joints must be filled with sealant. After that, the inner surface of the skin is glued with a sound-absorbing coating. This avoids squeaks from the skin itself, which sometimes occur on budget cars.

Pros and cons of soundproofing

Like any other refinement that distinguishes the car from the factory design, door noise has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of soundproofing include:

• a significant increase in the comfort of the car;
• when selling your car, you can evaluate it higher than similar offers;
• powerful speakers can be installed in the door;
• doors become heavier, as a result of which they close softer and more solidly, without making extraneous sounds.

The list of negative aspects of vibration isolation is shorter:

• doors weighted due to insulation sag more often, requiring repair or replacement of hinges;
• some drivers, when operating such a car, may make mistakes related to the poor audibility of external sounds (the driver did not hear the signal of a neighboring car and got into an accident).

Perhaps this is where the disadvantages of sound insulation are exhausted. The question of how to soundproof car doors is simple. Therefore, if there is a desire, financial capabilities and a certain amount of adventurism, any driver who knows how to use the simplest tool can perform this manipulation on his own vehicle.

Greetings. Today we will analyze Everything on the topic: "Noise isolation of the car." I'll tell you how to do it right and what to make noise in the first place. I will also share my secrets and tricks. Go!

If you want to build even an entry-level audio system, then Shumka is the first necessity and the foundation for improving the sound in a car. An additional pleasant bonus will be an increase in comfort on any trip. Well, if the main thing for you is precisely the reduction of ambient noise, then the improvement in the sound of even a standard audio system will pleasantly surprise you. But to what extent to do the soundproofing of your car, everyone decides for himself and I will try to help decide on this.

More than a dozen cars have passed through my hands on soundproofing work, and I think I will be able to give you some useful information.

Types of soundproofing materials

Under the general name of sound insulation, several types of materials are combined - these are vibration absorbers, noise absorbers and seals.

Vibration isolation materials

The name speaks for itself, these are materials for reducing vibrations of metal surfaces of a car.

They are mastic on foil material of different hardness and thickness. "Vibra" - is the basis of any soundproof "sandwich" of the car. Most often, the materials are self-adhesive, but there are those that require heat for installation.

• roof;
• hood cover;
• doors;
• trunk lid;
• wheel arches;
• interior floor;
• partition of the engine compartment;

Soundproofing materials

As a rule, they are laid on top of vibration isolation, performing a dual function - sound absorption and thermal insulation. There are two kinds.

First option made of foam materials with a closed cell structure, has a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

• interior floor;
• trunk floor;
• roof;
• hood cover.

Second option— softer foam materials with a wave-like or pyramidal surface structure. The uneven face of the material increases the area, providing more effective sound absorption in comparison with flat counterparts of the same thickness. Due to its softness and suppleness, it facilitates the assembly of interior parts and fills voids.

• roof;
• doors;
• trunk lid;
• wheel arches on the inside;
• engine compartment partition.

Sealing materials (anti-creaks)

With the help of these materials, the hated "crickets" are eliminated by everyone and, if necessary, an additional seal is created at the joints of the plastic parts of the interior. Anti-creaks can also be used to wind electrical wiring.

• joints of plastic panels,
• air ducts,
• door trim areas.

Manufacturers

There are two most famous and widespread on the Russian market:

"StP"

Standardplast has been on the market since 1996. Distributes its soundproofing, soundproofing and sealing materials through dealer networks.

"Shumoff"

It is both a developer and a manufacturer. It has a number of very successful materials that fully meet the requirements of auto noise insulation.

Of course, there are many more manufacturers and types of sound insulation, but I will give examples of the materials of these two brands. Because they are the most common and known among us. So it will be easier for you to get an idea of ​​​​the type of insulation for a particular surface.

Car Soundproofing Tools

To carry out work on soundproofing a car, you will need:

• roller**;
• thermal hair dryer, if you need to heat certain materials;
• scissors and a knife for cutting material;
• degreaser (solvent, white spirit, etc.);
• rags for wiping;
• spatula to remove old glue and factory soundproofing;

* Interior disassembly tools. Thanks to the material, car interior parts remain scratch-free during assembly and disassembly, paint, leather, chrome and other surfaces are not damaged.

** Roller roller. A simple tool for rolling out material on the surface, avoiding bubbles and unglued areas. Do not buy rollers with a plastic roller;

Key points

• Materials are glued exclusively on dry and fat-free surfaces;
• Be sure to carefully roll the vibration isolation over the entire surface;
• Choose the thickness of the material so that the plastic elements of the interior fit normally into their mounting places;
• Be prepared for the fact that several caps may break during operation, so you can stock up on them in advance or buy them in the process;
• Carefully monitor the fastening of parts and the location of the electrical wiring plugs, it will not be superfluous to take a picture so as not to get tired during assembly;
• Work must be carried out in a warm room (+20 degrees).

Door soundproofing

Doors need to make noise. This is the foundation for building an acoustic system, you won’t even recognize the sound of the staff after sizing the doors, the external noise will also noticeably decrease while driving, and the sound of their closing will become much more pleasant. First of all, I want to note that the processing of doors will have the greatest effect on costs, both financial and physical. From the processing of other surfaces, you are unlikely to feel such a bright effect!

Door disassembly

On the net you will find a detailed manual for almost any model, so there should not be any problems here.

Be sure to use special tools so as not to damage the plastic and paint. If there is no access to them, you can use a screwdriver wrapped with electrical tape. The main thing is not to scatter bolts with caps and carefully remember which one is from where, and also pay attention to the location of the wiring plugs. When assembling, you can spend a lot of time remembering where this or that chip is inserted, or you can completely forget to connect something.

Preparing doors for soundproofing

After disassembly, remove all factory insulation, remove adhesive residue (any solvent will help with this). When the insides are dirty enough, it makes sense to rinse the metal of the door, and after drying, thoroughly degrease both inside and out. Do not neglect this rule so that the materials hold securely.

If the inner space covers a solid shield, then it will have to be drilled out for removal (use a drill with a diameter of the rivet rods). In principle, it is even more convenient for seaming, since it is not always easy to get into the technological holes with your hand, and even roll the vibration with a roller with force.

Vibration isolation of doors

Advice: first apply a frame grating to the metal from a material of increased rigidity from those that require heating for installation (For example, "Prof" from Shumoff).

Then stick and roll up the inner surface of the outer wall with vibration isolation as much as possible over the entire area where you can reach. Usually materials with a thickness of 2-3 mm are used. ( Examples: Shumoff series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero.) with thicker ones, the effect will be better, but at the same time, the load on the hinges increases and the complexity of installation increases.

The next step is gluing the outer side of the inner wall. There are several options here:

• standard - everything is rolled up under the material used and the mounting openings are closed with it;

• reinforced - mounting openings are sealed with a material that becomes sticky and soft only when heated, and at standard temperature it has increased rigidity;

• professional - the holes are riveted with aluminum or overlays made of fiberglass, and then vibration isolation is applied on top.

When gluing, leave room for wiring. You can cut the material and glue already under it, or you can partially remove the wires, completely roll up the door (leaving holes for the fasteners) and install the wiring back. Also, do not forget to leave holes for caps, screws and guides, otherwise the skin will not be put on later. Additionally, watch the edges of the insulated area so that the material does not go beyond the border covered by the sheathing. Be sure to pay attention to moving parts; often, due to inexperience, the guides of the mechanical open / close buttons are glued.

Additionally, you can partially glue the lining from the inside, but do not overdo it.

If you are making door noise to improve the quality of the music, then be sure to install wooden spacers between the speaker and the door iron (pictured above). Choose the height of the spacer according to the distance to the skin. In order for it to sit in place during assembly.

Door soundproofing

Noise absorbers are usually glued to the inside of the skin.

But it happens that the shape of the skin is very complex or has a fleecy structure. In this case, it is better to stick the material on the wall of the door itself over the vibration isolation. It is more efficient to use a material with a pyramidal structure ( Example: Bitoplast, Germeton).

Do not use splen and similar noise insulators in the doors, most of them simply peel off at low temperatures. I had to face many times.

If you had problems with crickets and creaks in the map, then you can glue the joints with anti-creak.

Door assembly

Do not forget to connect all connectors, install all mechanisms in their places. Be careful not to use too much force. With proper gluing, the skin should fit normally. Before complete assembly and tightening of fasteners, check all controls (lift, lock, mirror control, speakers, etc.)

If everything is done correctly, now you will hear more bass, the music will become more collected and more pleasant, and external noise will also decrease when driving.

Noise isolation of the trunk

Thanks to competent soundproofing of the trunk:

• the level of external noise will decrease, especially in hatchbacks and station wagons;
• a qualitative increase in the sound level of your subwoofer and the speaker system as a whole (sound will no longer be lost in the vibrations of the metal of the luggage compartment);
• reduce heat loss

For vibration isolation, as a rule, a material of 2-3 mm is used. ( Examples: Shumoff series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero). To enhance the effect of resonant surfaces of a large area, thicker material is glued, or a reinforcing mesh is made, as is the case with doors.

Noise insulation for the trunk floor is selected from materials with a smooth structure ( Example: Shumoff series P or isotone from Stp).

For the walls and lining of the luggage compartment lid, it would be more expedient to use a Shumka with an open structure ( Example: Bitoplast, Germeton).

There are usually a lot of uneven surfaces in the trunk, so accuracy and patience will come in handy to achieve a good result.

car roof soundproofing

Installing additional noise insulation on the roof of the car will significantly reduce heat loss. In cold weather, the interior of the car will heat up faster and cool down longer, which will undoubtedly add comfort. The overall reduction in external noise will be quite difficult to catch, but during the rain you can experience a pleasant sensation. The sound of drops disappears almost completely. It will also improve the quality of the bass if you have a subwoofer installed.

The roof soundproofing procedure itself is not complicated and it is quite convenient to perform rolling work.

Do not glue the stiffeners - they must be ventilated. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate inside!

Problems can deliver the dismantling of the skin. You need to be careful and do the work with an assistant in order to accidentally bend or break it. And be careful with the wiring.

Material examples: Light or Aero for vibration, and Hermeton or Bitoplast for noise.

In the arch area, the main external noise accumulates, and besides, this is a fairly vibro-loaded surface. Integrated soundproofing of the arches will significantly reduce the noise level and improve acoustic comfort.

Soundproofing arches from the outside

If your car has wheel arches, you will need to remove them. Glue the outer metal of the arches with a vibration absorber (3 mm). Lighter material can be used for fender liner. Example: Shumoff M series, Stp Bimast Bomb.

It is better not to use noise absorbers outside, even if they are moisture resistant. Practice shows that this is not very effective and the best result will be given by the correct sound insulation from the passenger compartment.

If there are no wheel arch liners in your car, then also seal the outer metal with vibration isolation. It is necessary to roll out the material very carefully to form a uniform surface. Then liquid rubber and similar materials are used on top ( Noxudol 3100, Shumoff layer, etc.), they will additionally protect against sandblasting, reduce noise from impacts of small particles and mask vibration isolation.

Soundproofing arches from the cabin

From the inside, the gluing process is standard. The first layer is vibration isolation ( example: Shumoff M series, Stp Bimast Bomb), the second soundproofing ( example: Bitoplast, Germeton). Shumka is better to stick on the interior parts that cover the arches. But if their material does not allow the insulation to be firmly glued, then mount it directly on the vibration.

It should be noted that a noticeable effect is achieved only with an integrated approach. If you apply only one of the options presented, you will most likely be disappointed with the result.

car floor soundproofing

The floor of the car is characterized by a large area. The main labor costs are dismantling the cabin, removing the seats, etc. Gluing the material in this case is convenient, unlike working with doors and trunk.

Since the area is relatively flat and large, it is better to use a thicker vibrator for the first layer ( example: Shumoff MixF, StP Aero Plus) for the most resonant places, you can use materials that require heating during installation.

The second layer is rolled waterproof soundproofing with a closed structure ( example: Shumoff Comfort 10, Germeton L; StP Accent or Isoton).

Be careful and do not seal the mounting holes, so as not to look for them later under the thickness of the material.

It should be noted that, oddly enough, often the sound insulation of the floor does not meet the expectations of the average owner. The effect is hardly noticeable, especially against the backdrop of a lot of work done and material costs. But as an additional plus, you will receive improved interior thermal insulation, if this is relevant for your region.

The best effect on reducing engine noise is achieved when the sound insulation of the engine compartment is done both from the passenger compartment and from the outside.

This process is perhaps the most difficult compared to working on other parts of the body. The main difficulty is the disassembly of the instrument panel. Because modern cars have a lot of electrical equipment, which is located in the dashboard area. Therefore, the process of removal and reassembly will require very great accuracy and care. Also, it must be borne in mind that it is unlikely that it will be possible to carry out soundproofing of the engine in one day.

On the side of the engine compartment, it is advisable to use thicker vibration isolation, it will not be superfluous to use a material that requires heating. You need to cover the maximum area, including in the most inaccessible places. As sound insulation, a material with a reflective surface is suitable in order to prevent possible overheating.

On the interior side, the thickness of the materials is chosen so that the dashboard falls into place.

If all work is carried out correctly, then the noise level from the engine in the cabin will decrease significantly (up to 50%). Additionally, vibrations will also decrease, this can be felt on the steering wheel. In addition, if the assembly uses a material such as, for example, modelin etc., then you can get rid of squeaks and annoying "crickets" in the dashboard, if there were any.

The main disadvantage is the risk of damaging expensive equipment. It often happens that after soundproofing the instrument panel, there are failures in the electronics.

Therefore, before deciding to carry out these works, you need to weigh everything well.

I will not linger long on the soundproofing of the hood. You can make it as a warming of the engine compartment, but for this it is better to use an auto-blanket or something similar.

This procedure practically does not reduce the noise of the engine in the cabin. Here on the drive the guy took cognitive measurements: .

I would advise you to soundproof the hood if you have a diesel engine and it rumbles loudly. Also, the hood can be processed if it vibrates noticeably when driving and you do not like it. Standard materials: Shumoff series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero for vibration isolation and closed types for noise: Shumoff series P or isotone from Stp.

It is better to glue the noise insulation on the standard sound insulation of the hood, it will be more convenient. And thus the ventilation openings will not be closed.

Results

To what extent to carry out sound insulation, everyone decides for himself.

I would advise the following:

Soundproofing doors - "must-have", it's worth doing even if you don't intend to change your speaker system. The effect compared to the cost is remarkable.