For many years I have been exploiting the “old woman” VAZ 2105, and she never let me down, and she always drove home herself. That's why I try to treat her the way she treats me. But the years of age of the car take their toll, and it does not compete with younger "rivals" in any way.
But the situation when, due to my own forgetfulness, I did not turn off the headlights, and in the morning they found a battery discharged “to zero”, happened to me more than once. And one fine day, after unobtrusive communication with the inspector of the road service, he suggested a simple solution: put Daytime Running Lights on the car, or DRL for short.
No sooner said than done, and the next day I went to the nearest car market. I want to immediately warn against buying universal DRLs (not for a specific model) via the Internet or mail: they still need to be tried on, whether you like it or not, and not all sellers will give accurate information about the size. Therefore, I settled on simple DRLs from the “Chinese brothers” for only $11.
In the box
in addition to the very thin diode lights themselves in the amount of two pieces,
there were two simple brackets,
and eight screws: four larger ones for fixing the brackets themselves to the car body or bumper, and four smaller ones for attaching the lights directly to the brackets.
However, further practice has shown that we will not need either brackets or these “dead” screws.
At first I tried to put in niches, but then I could not put the main headlights in place,
and I just didn't like it.
Fortunately, it got dark quite early (or I was fiddling with them for so long), and deciding that “the morning is wiser than the evening”, I went home. And the popular proverb turned out to be right and I dreamed about how to put daytime running lights on my VAZ 2105. For reference: this entire article can be successfully applied to the VAZ 2107, in terms of headlights and the wiring we need, they are absolutely identical.
For installation, you will need a screwdriver that will perform the functions of an autonomous drill,
extension cord and two cross bits for it,
drills 3 and 4 mm,
crosshead screwdriver;
four shorter screws to secure the back of the DRL to the main headlight itself,
and four thin and long ones to fasten the light bulb with glass to the body.
In addition, you need a mounting block, more precisely, only two segments from it,
electrical tape (where without it),
clear silicone sealant
meter (or even less) piece of two-wire wire,
plastic clamps to lay everything neatly,
and nippers, then to bite off the extra ponytails.
All right, let's start creating.
Remove both headlights
and with a drill for four in the lower part we drill a hole through and through.
Now the neatest part, since the outer glass of these DRLs is not glass at all, but rather fragile and sharp transparent plastic. Therefore, with a drill, first three, at the smallest revolutions of the drill, we drill a through hole. And then with a drill for four, we also carefully and carefully increase it to this diameter.
In the back, on the contrary, there are already holes for thin screws, so we don’t do anything with it.
We pass the wire into the prepared hole and put the headlight in place.
We fasten the back cover of the DRL directly to the headlight,
lubricate the contour with transparent silicone,
and having lubricated the screws themselves with the same silicone, with a SCREWDRIVER, carefully (remember about fragility) we fasten one first,
and then another headlight.
Wipe off any remaining silicone before it sets.
Now remove the false radiator grille. It's easy, four crosshead bolts.
Through the contacts, connect the wires from the light bulbs in pairs with the main wire, which we will fix. If the wire is solid color, mark the ground (black wire) on the other side, it will be much easier.
After the adoption of the law on the use of daytime running lights (DRL) when driving on a mandatory basis, most motorists "hurried" to ensure that these attributes were installed on their vehicles. The adoption of such a law is a decision to improve safety on the roads of highways and large settlements.
Every motorist should have information on how the installation of daytime running lights is carried out. The implementation of this procedure is actually not as difficult as it seems at first. The correct approach and following the instructions will help you avoid common mistakes and save a lot of time and nerves.
The main task of the DHO is ensuring optimal vehicle visibility for other drivers. In addition to the denoting function, they play the role of a design element, which unties the hands of car tuning lovers.
The main colors of LED lights used by drivers are bright blue or white. The advantage of this color is good illumination and economy.
Types of daytime running lights
Front lamp emitters, unlike ordinary headlights, are special devices of industrial production. They offer many benefits, such as reduced fuel consumption and battery life savings. Installation of DRL does not cause any difficulties.
Multiple Requirements
When installing, you must comply with some requirements of GOST. This will allow you to mount daylights without unpleasant consequences and problems.
GOST requirements for the installation of DRL What you need to know when installing:
- 60 cm is the minimum distance between the lights;
- 25 cm is the minimum height measuring the distance between the ground and the lowest point of the installed lights;
- 40 cm is the maximum distance from the extreme point of the vehicle body.
Important! The use of DRLs as main headlights or dimensions is unacceptable, since they serve as an auxiliary lighting tool. Installation of more than 2 lights is prohibited.
Installation procedure
DRL device Turning on the lights along with starting the engine indicates that the installation was carried out correctly, according to all instructions. Some drivers prefer to install an additional toggle switch that is responsible for turning the system on and off.
Carefully! Neglect of accepted norms and standards will entail the creation of unpleasant moments associated with a road car inspection.
The main thing is to start
Gorbachev's famous phrase helps with motivation to achieve a specific goal like nothing else. The beginning of our installation process is to purchase the necessary running lights from an auto parts store. There are many different manufacturers and even more models, so it can be easy for an inexperienced person to get confused. In this case, it is better to contact the seller or consultant. Most of the manufactured lights meet all GOST standards and are ready for subsequent installation.
Approaching the procedure, motorists must take into account certain requirements:
- brightness of LEDs and their rated power;
- technical characteristics and distinctive features of their vehicle model;
- size, shape and type of front bumper.
DRL installation kit The installation location will depend on the block (meaning its size and shape), but this does not create problems, since regardless of the shape (rectangular or oval), the block sizes are small. Considering the main and “favorite” places for installing emitters, one cannot fail to mention the air intake and bumper, where motorists most often put LEDs.
Performing the installation step by step
This guide explains how to install universal LED daytime running lights on any vehicle. Installation is quite simple, you just need to devote a little time to this procedure.
Step 1. Insert the wire into the bracket.
Starting the installation process Step 2 Install the bracket. Since these are universal daylight lamps, you can install them in any place that appeals to you. Most often, a place is chosen at the bottom of the bumper.
Most often choose a place on the bumper Step 3 After installing the bracket, you can fix the daytime running lights to the bracket.
Attach the lantern carefully Step 4. After you mount the DRL with the bracket, connect the wires and run them near the battery/fuse box.
We carry out the connection of wires Step 5 Use plastic zip ties to secure the wire along the bumper. You can choose another "wired path" if you wish.
Fasten the wire securely with cable ties Step 6 Find the ACC on your fuse box and press the red wire there. You can find the location of the ACC fuse with an electronic meter by clamping the black wire to the battery negative. Insert the tester pen into the fuse box in any unoccupied slot and note the places where the tester pen does not light up. Start the engine and check the slots that are not illuminating. Find a spot that only lights up when the engine is running. This is the ACC site.
Use a special tester to search Basically, when the engine is on, the indicator lights up. When the engine is off, the indicator is correspondingly off. Press the black wire to the negative terminal of the battery
Step 9 The images in the installation guide will make this procedure easy for you.
The result of the work done will pleasantly surprise you. Knowing how to install daytime running lights in accordance with all norms and requirements, you can save yourself from possible problems with representatives of the traffic police and increase the level of safety. Performing such a “tuning” will have virtually no effect on the amount of fuel burned (consumption).
Video - How to install DRL on a VAZ 2106
Daytime running lights are not related to dimensions and are lighting devices that improve the visibility of the driver in the daytime.
Standard DRLs are LEDs that shine brightly and are characterized by a long working life. When you use daytime running lights on the VAZ 2107, you should not additionally turn on the dipped or fog light.
Daytime running lights on the VAZ 2107 Installation rules
Installation of additional lighting on a domestic car does not require qualifications and experience. However, if you install it incorrectly, you run the risk of running into a fine from traffic cops, becoming the owner of an administrative violation.
To prevent this from happening, connect following the rules:
- read GOST R 41.48-2004. It concerns the rules for installing lighting fixtures on a car and vehicle certification in this regard. It contains all the parameters that you must consider when installing these devices;
- choose the appropriate shape of the DRL body. Keep in mind that not all lighting devices are suitable for the VAZ 2107. Drivers consider it the best choice in terms of price-quality ratio;
Philips LED DayLight 9 daytime running lights - check for proper housing size, taking into account the blocks of adjacent Daytime Running Lights. Install lighting fixtures in the air intake or on the bumper, depending on the situation;
- the height of the body of products in the frame is 250-1500 mm from the road surface. The width between the inner edges of the 2 surfaces visible on the vehicle must be at least 600 mm;
- products are located in front of the machine, and the beam of rays is directed forward;
- consider the overall brightness of the LED lighting. It is 150-330 lumens.
Installation process
After buying ordinary ones or before you, the question is: how to connect new devices to the VAZ? This requires:
- take a five-pin relay from a domestic manufacturer;
Five-pin relay of a domestic manufacturer - to terminal No. 30, take a positive charge from the ignition (as an option - a wire from the button responsible for heating the rear window);
- connect connection No. 86 to the low beam using the button for activating the dimensions and low lamps;
- No. 85 - throw on the ground;
- No. 88 - connect to DRL;
- No. 87 is not required during operation and is not connected to anything.
Wiring diagram for daytime running lights on the VAZ 2107 Relay - put in the cabin. Under the car hood, only run the wiring that goes directly to the lighting fixtures. Such
Many car enthusiasts have not yet installed daytime running lights on their car, but maybe they have been thinking about it for a long time. It's no secret that the lack of navigation lights, as well as the low beam / fog lights turned off, can cause your vehicle to be stopped by a vigilant traffic police inspector, which is not very desirable for most drivers, unless the latter lack communication with people and are happy any company at any time.
In addition, if you use dipped beam or fog lights as daytime running lights (hereinafter referred to as DRL), you will probably have to change the lamps in these headlights much more often. There is still a moment of increased gas mileage with constant driving with the low beam on. Of course, this expense is negligible compared to the main one, but still it takes place.
If you have a certain amount of time (depending on skills and experience) and desire, correctly installing DRL on a car is not such a difficult task for people who know how to hold a soldering iron in their hands and crimp terminals with wires, and in this article I will tell you how to do it .
Of the tools and materials we need: a crimping device (if you have some skill, pliers are also suitable), a soldering iron, wire cutters, a knife, a lighter (as an option for tightening a heat shrink tube), 3-4 meters of a two-core wire in PVA insulation 2x1.5 (2x0 can be .75 if the DRLs are LED, not fog lights with halogens!). This wire will be needed to connect two lights in parallel to each other.
You will need a standard 12-volt automotive relay, four-pin, reed switch (any), a single wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 2.5 mm. about 2-3m., plastic clamps, heat shrink. It seems to be all.
Now a few words about connection options.
Option 1. You can make the DRLs turn on when the ignition is turned on and not turn off until the engine is turned off. This is the easiest option. The negative wire is attached to the car body in any convenient place, the positive wire is attached to the positive from the ignition switch or to terminal D of the high-voltage module, preferably through a fuse (not indicated in the diagram).
Option 2. The same option, but when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs go out. In this case, we connect the plus in the same way as in the first option, and the minus to the positive wire of the low beam lamp (either of the two). The fact is that an incandescent lamp consumes much more current and has much lower resistance than LED DRLs, and therefore, when DRLs are turned on in this way, the filament of the lamp will not heat up even to the minimum glow at full heat, and at DRL operation, the resistance of the lamp filament ( even warmed up) practically will not affect.
As soon as you turn on the dipped beam, a plus will appear on the minus of the DRL, and they will go out. True, if you turn on the distant, the DRLs will light up again. In this case, you can connect the DRL to the marker lamps in the same way (if incandescent lamps are used as such, and not LED ones!). In most cars I know, marker lamps are a priori connected in parallel, so you can connect a common negative wire from two DRL lights to any marker lamp.
Option 3. This is an option when the DRLs turn on automatically only when the engine is started and running. In this case, we connect the minus of the DRL also to the car body, and the plus to the 30th relay contact. 87 contact is connected to a more powerful plus (you can connect to the positive terminal of the battery), 85 contact of the relay - to the ground of the car through the running lights, and 86 - to the reed switch, to one of its outputs.
We also connect the second output of the reed switch to any plus nearby (you can from the generator or from the same place - from the battery). We start the car and moving the reed switch around the generator, we achieve the operation of the relay and the ignition of the DRL. We fasten the reed switch, pre-packaged in heat shrink, with a plastic clamp to the generator in the found position and you're done.
Option 4. If there is no reed switch. Everything is the same, only 86 pin - to the oil pressure lamp in the instrument panel.
That's all. In conclusion, I will say that using something that is made by one's own hands is much more pleasant than that which is made by strangers. Good luck in implementing your and not yours, but, most importantly, interesting ideas.
On the territory of the Russian Federation, for more than 8 years, amendments to the rules of the road (SDA) have been in force, according to which a moving vehicle during daylight hours must be indicated by dipped beam headlights, fog lights (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL). The use of head and fog lamps for these purposes has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made navigation light modules and install them on their own in their car. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict applicable laws?
The nuances of turning on running lights
The main requirements regarding the installation, technical parameters and connection of navigation lights are listed in paragraph 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional diagram of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights automatically turn on when the ignition key is turned (engine start). At the same time, they should automatically turn off if the headlights are turned on.
Paragraph 5.12 of this standard states that the headlights (FGS) should be turned on only after the dimensions are turned on, with the exception of short-term warning signals. When connecting DRLs independently, this feature must be taken into account.
The correct connection of DRL is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to think about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, the resistors act as a current limiter, however, due to voltage drops, the resistors cannot limit the current at the same level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the navigation lights connection circuit is essential. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant changes in on-board voltage. Some motorists say that you can connect running lights without a stabilizer.
Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because DRLs on LEDs regularly shine for months without any stabilization ...
However, this assertion is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each power surge, more than 12 V appears on the LED module, the direct current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the radiating crystal. The brightness of the LEDs decreases, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task - to warn drivers of oncoming vehicles from afar, and over time they will completely flicker and fail.
Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means throwing away at least a few hundred rubles every year on new modules and wasting time replacing them.
For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without the use of a stabilizer.
The simplest circuit
The simplest scheme for switching on DRL when starting the engine is shown in the figure. The positive wire is connected to the "+" terminal of the ignition switch. The negative wire is attached to the machine body in a convenient place. In this form, the scheme has a significant drawback. LED daytime running lights will emit light as long as the ignition key is turned. In addition, their work is not coordinated with the work of the other headlights, which means that they do not meet the requirements of GOST.
Switching on through the dimensions or dipped beam
The second version of the DRL connection scheme involves using the power supply circuit of the marker light bulb. To do this, the positive wire from the navigation lights is directly connected to the "+" from the battery. In turn, the negative wire is connected to the "+" side light, which is currently electrically neutral. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the “+” battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the case, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp coil remains extinguished. 
If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the plus side of the marker, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, current flows through the side light bulbs.
This circuit solution has several disadvantages:
- running lights remain in operation when the engine is turned off, which is contrary to current regulations;
- the circuit will not work if LEDs are also installed in the dimensions;
- the circuit will not work correctly if powerful SMD LEDs are placed in the DRL, the rated current of which is commensurate with the current of the light bulb;
- for safety reasons, an additional fuse must be installed.
This connection method can be improved by connecting the positive wire of the LED module not to the “+” of the battery, but to the “+” of the ignition switch, thereby getting rid of the first drawback. 
Some motorists use circuits for switching on running lights through a low beam lamp. That is, when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs automatically go out, and in other cases they work. In addition to the above disadvantages, this method does not comply with GOST R 41.48-2004 and traffic regulations.
When the car is parked at night, parking lights are used to indicate it, the use of DRL traffic rules is prohibited.
Connection via 4 contact relay from generator or oil sensor
The two following methods have a common basis and involve the operation of daytime running lights only after the engine is started. The DRL switching circuit from the generator is based on switching four contact relays and a reed switch. 
DRL relay contacts are connected as follows:
- 85 - on the positive wire to the dimensions;
- 86 - to any output of the reed switch;
- 87 and the second output of the reed switch - to the "+" of the battery.
After checking the reliability of all contacts, proceed to the setting. To do this, start the engine and, moving the reed switch near the generator, achieve its operation and a stable glow of the DRL. Then the reed switch is hidden in a thermotube and fixed in the found place with the help of nylon ties.
At the moment of starting the engine, and then the generator, the contacts of the reed switch and the relay are closed, supplying voltage to the LEDs of the running lights. At the same time, the indicator lamps remain off, since the current through the relay coil is small to ignite them.
In the absence of a reed switch, it is possible to power the DRL from the oil pressure sensor. In this case, the 86th contact is connected to an oil pressure lamp. The rest of the circuitry is duplicated. 
Both schemes have a common drawback. They cannot be used if LEDs are installed in the dimensions.
Connection via 5 pin relay
Now it's time to learn how to connect running lights through a five-pin relay. The scheme is the most universal, and is assembled in order to eliminate the shortcomings of the previous options. 
First, about connecting the relay for DRL:
- 30 - to the positive terminals of the LED modules;
- 85 - on the positive wire of the marker lamp;
- 86 - on the car body;
- 87a - to "+" from the ignition switch;
- 87 - do not connect (isolate).
The circuit with five contact relays works as follows. When the key is turned, +12 V is supplied to the DRL, thereby turning them on. If you turn on the side lights or headlights, the relay will open contact 87a and close the inactive contact 87. As a result, the DRL will go out and the dimensions will turn on. The circuit fully complies with the requirements of GOST and SDA and can work with side lights even based on LEDs.
However, the scheme still has one negative point - DRLs will turn on immediately after turning the ignition switch. That is, if you turn the key in the ignition, but do not start the car, the DRLs will burn.
Despite the existing drawback, the circuit is quite successful, but in order to properly connect the DRL through a five-pin relay, it will be necessary to supplement the circuit with a voltage stabilizer.
This switching option is interesting in that the current flow path through the running lights is independent. This allows you to install light sources of any type and power in the headlights and DRLs.
DRL control unit
The most reliable and simplest is the option of connecting DRLs without a relay, but using a special running lights control unit. It ensures that the DRL is turned on after starting the engine, guarantees safe operation, protects against overloads and can be installed on cars with any type of lamps, including LED ones.
Unfortunately, among the whole variety of industrially manufactured DRL blocks, the vast majority does not comply with GOST and has a mediocre build quality.
This concerns, first of all, products from AliExpress, which do not meet the requirements in almost all respects.
Among all the variety, only 2 options can be noted: the Russian DayLight + DRL control unit and German products from Philips and Osram. The DayLight+ control unit was developed by the Russian radio engineer Fedor Isachenkov, taking into account all the features of the car's on-board network and has a number of positive aspects:
- there is a built-in voltage stabilization;
- full compliance with GOST;
- the maximum long-term load power is 36 watts (significantly less is required for DRL);
- the simplest wiring diagram.
In addition to the above points, the DayLight + block is universal and fits all cars with a 12-volt on-board network, and also has good build quality and a high degree of protection against moisture and dust. 
German products from Philips and Osram also have all the advantages of the DayLight + unit described above, however, German control units are only supplied with daytime running lights and are more expensive.
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