Many car owners, wanting to improve the power and dynamic characteristics of the car with their own hands, decide to install a zero resistance filter. It is difficult for an uninitiated person to judge how justified such a step is. Among motorists, there are directly opposite opinions regarding such a car upgrade. Some are sure that the installation of a "zero" allows you to significantly increase the power of the engine, "strangled" by a regular air filter, and therefore, it is not only necessary, but vital. Others argue that one filter of zero resistance for boosting the power unit is not enough, therefore, there is no point in it, besides, there is a prejudice that such a device copes much worse with its main task - cleaning the air entering the engine.
As usual, the truth lies somewhere in the middle, but first things first.
What is a zero resistance filter?
Atmospheric air contains many mechanical impurities, primarily dust, which, once inside the engine, can sooner or later disable it. To prevent a premature end, this air must be purified. To do this, you need an air filter, which carries out mechanical cleaning.
The power of the motor directly depends on the amount of air involved in the preparation of the working mixture. The better the air is filtered, the less it enters the engine, and the more power drops. Regular filters are made of a fairly dense material that provides great resistance to flow. As it gets dirty, the resistance increases even more. This becomes especially noticeable during dynamic driving - the car becomes "dull".
The Zero Resistance Air Filter is designed to provide minimal intake resistance without compromising cleaning performance. It is for this reason that it is mandatory installed on racing cars.
Its filter element consists of several layers of cotton fabric impregnated with a special agent and placed between an aluminum screen. It allows the air flow to pass almost unhindered into the motor. Dirt particles from the passing air flow stick to the fibers, practically without reducing the throughput of the filter.
Zero resistance filter maintenance
In order for the filter to do its job well, the car owner must service it regularly. The procedure is not particularly difficult, but it takes time.
- First, the filter must be removed and cleaned of dust with a soft brush. Thus, large particles of dirt are removed.
- After that, the filter must be treated with a special cleaning agent and wait 10 minutes until the entire filter element is saturated.
- Then the filter must be washed first in a container with water, and then under a weak pressure of running water. After rinsing, shake off any remaining water.
- Do not dry the filter with heating elements, as this may damage it.
- The dried filter should be carefully inspected. If light spots remain on its surface, the impregnation will have to be repeated.
- Finally, the dried filter can be put back.
The expediency of installing zero
However, one should not be deceived by the sharply increased dynamic characteristics of the machine, because the increase in power will be only 5-6 percent. Even a calculator is not required to calculate that, for example, in a Lada Priora car, installing a zero-resistance filter gives an additional 5 hp.
In practice, a person is not able to feel such an increase in power, therefore, such a procedure will only allow to amuse pride with the realization that the efficiency of the engine has become a little better. The zero-resistance filter will also not have any serious effect on the dynamic characteristics of a conventional car. Therefore, it makes sense to put it only in the order of a complete tuning of the engine, then its advantages can be fully manifested.
We must not forget about the disadvantages of such a filter. It requires regular maintenance, and the price of a high-quality zero-resistance filter is several times higher than usual, and can call into question all its advantages.
Or maybe no filter at all?
There is a misconception among motorists that if the filter is completely dismantled along with the housing, engine power will increase significantly. In fact, this is absolutely not the case; dismantling does not give any gain. The reason is that when developing a power unit, engineers initially calculate the valve timing, taking into account air filtration losses. In addition, in uncleaned air, the motor will not last long, because. abrasive particles will quickly do their job.
Do-it-yourself alternative or "nulevik"
Some car owners, not wanting to spend a lot of money on buying an expensive branded zero-resistance filter, prefer to make them with their own hands. As a donor, a regular round filter from Moskvich of any model is most often used. With the help of glue, sealant, a clerical knife and a round box from CDs, it is converted into the so-called "nulevik". For what? Everything is very simple. The main reason pushing car owners to make a filter with their own hands is the issue price, which does not exceed 150 rubles.
Needless to say, such a self-made "nulevik" remains the same "Moskvich" filter, and its characteristics will not get better. In addition, we should not forget that in the 70s the technology was not as perfect as it is today, and motors made forty years ago were not as demanding on the quality of air purification. Therefore, the filters that were installed on these engines are capable of retaining only relatively large particles. The conclusion is simple: installing a do-it-yourself zero-resistance filter on modern cars is unacceptable. Otherwise, there is every chance to ruin your iron horse.
Perhaps the only car in which you can install a homemade “nulevik” in order to achieve some kind of effect is the same “Moskvich”. Some owners cut off the walls of the case in which it is placed. Thus, an unnecessary obstacle in the path of the air flow is eliminated.
The “zero resistance filter” (although it is correct to speak of “reduced” resistance, it cannot be zero) is one of those internal combustion engines that has established itself in the mass consciousness as a must-have item. You can see the zero-filter both on a serious tuning project and on a Chinese scooter. Moreover, the owners of such filters do not at all represent either their principle of operation or the rules for caring for low-resistance filters.
What does a zero resistance filter do?
In an internal combustion engine, the working fluid is atmospheric air. The more it enters the cylinder, the more fuel burns in it, the higher the temperature and pressure during the stroke of the piston. Hence the increase in torque and power.
But, the higher the engine speed, the stronger the influence of the intake tract resistance on the filling of the cylinders. If at low revs for a gasoline engine, the filling is still cut off by the throttle, then in the “slipper to the floor” mode, the power already depends on the intake configuration, receiver settings and air filter resistance.
What is a "zero" resistance filter for? By definition, it resists airflow. Even if you remove the filter, turbulence at the cut of the air intake pipe will create some filling losses - it is not for nothing that bell-shaped forms are used in sports receivers.
Moreover, a high-quality filter with a high degree of purification, with an equal surface area, “chokes” the motor more than it passes all the dust into the cylinders. Therefore, earlier on sports engines, air filters were not installed at all - at most, meshes were attached to the air intakes to protect against random stones. The resource of the motors was still calculated for several races, and the increased abrasive wear of the cylinder-piston group was not critical.
But for equipment that was used in not so extreme conditions, and simply without rich sponsors, the problem of reducing the resource due to the lack of air filtration was acute. Therefore, the "zero filter" has become a kind of compromise between the throughput and the degree of air purification.
Structurally, the “nuleviki” are made of two types of materials: cotton or large-pored foam rubber, but the essence of the work remains the same. The filter curtain itself does not provide sufficient filtration, the pore size in it is effective only against relatively large particles. This provides little resistance to air flow.
Impregnation for the filter of zero resistance fights with fine dust - a special sticky oil that envelops the microcells in the filter curtain. While the air flow passes through the “maze” of the curtain, microparticles stick to the oil film.
For this reason, filters of this type require regular flushing, which removes contaminants and old oil, and new impregnation.
Foam filters are the most effective in terms of air purification: it is not for nothing that they are already used from the factory on many motorcycles, the operating speed of which can exceed the five-digit mark. The foam rubber is easy to clean, has sufficient thickness so that the dust has time to stick to the walls of the cells. Cotton "cones" and curtains are much less convenient to clean due to the rigid reinforcing mesh inside, and their effectiveness (especially for cheap models) is less.
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Pros and cons: is there any sense in "zero"?
In reality, the difference with and without a filter is noticed only on a dyno. The benefit of reducing the resistance of only one element of the intake system appears only in the "full throttle" mode at high speeds, in the standard cycle of city driving, the effect of the "zero filter" is exactly zero.
Even for boosted engines, reducing intake resistance gives a penny of benefit. Let's take for example a graph taken on the stand with the Nissan Skyline ECR33, whose RB25DET engine has already moved away from the standard configuration:
The result is not bad - 250 horsepower on wheels. But, if you remove the air filter at all - to ensure that the intake resistance is reduced even more than that of a high-quality "zero" - we will get the second graph:
The drop in power after a peak of 5000 rpm became smoother, but the difference in numbers is negligible: its increase without a filter is only 8 horsepower. With the 250 hp we already have, it's impossible to notice it anywhere but on the track when it counts in hundredths of a second.
And you have to pay for these pennies by complicating maintenance and worsening air purification.
The “right to life” filters of “zero” resistance have only on (and, first of all, on those boosted in terms of speed, and not boosted). But even there, the installation of a “zero” is one of the many stages of fine-tuning: installing wide-phase camshafts, fitting and grinding inlet channels, and setting up the receiver. In another case, a zero air filter is nothing more than a harmful, albeit beautiful, accessory.
In addition, the oil impregnation of the Nuleviks itself can cause problems on engines equipped with mass fuel flow sensors. The air flow, passing through the filter, carries along oil microparticles, which then settle on the walls of the inlet pipes and directly on the surface of the sensing element. Because of this layer, which works as a heat insulator, the DMRV starts to “lie”, giving an incorrect injection signal. And here, already on the “gone” composition of the air-fuel mixture, we will talk not about a microscopic increase in peak power, but about a noticeable drop.
In some cases, the FTS installation itself can even reduce the maximum engine power. When installing a fashionable cotton “cone” or foam rubber “mushroom”, you have to dismantle the standard air filter box and air intake. If the layout of the engine compartment is unsuccessful, after this “anti-tuning”, the engine does not receive air that is close in temperature to atmospheric, but already warmed up, passing through the radiator. An increase in air temperature for every 10 degrees Celsius gives a loss in density of 0.04 kg / m3 - and an average atmospheric two-liter engine, spun up to 5000 rpm, drives 35 - 40 cubic meters per minute through itself! As a result, an engine with a zero-resistance air filter receives less air mass than with a standard, allegedly “strangled” intake.
The inevitable harm from the use of zero air filters is the accelerated wear of the cylinder-piston group. Even the air purification results declared by the world's leading manufacturers (for example, K&N) for these filters do not exceed 99% under ideal conditions and with the use of expensive branded impregnation oil. A paper curtain air filter is capable of filtering 99.5 to 99.9 percent of dust. It would seem that the difference is small - but for several tens of thousands of kilometers we will already talk about the difference in whole grams of dust that has fallen into the engine cylinders. Moreover, as it gets dirty, the paper filter only increases the degree of filtration: dust, clogging the pores, reduces the throughput, and they become able to trap smaller particles, albeit at the cost of increasing resistance.
In "zero" pollution on the surface of the pores reduce the likelihood of adhesion of new particles, and the cross section of the pores still remains larger than the size of the particles being filtered, as the pollution decreases, the degree of purification decreases with a little changing resistance. The previously used contact-oil air filters suffered the same, where the oil impregnated the line stuffed inside (designs familiar, for example, from trucks and motorcycles). Nuleviki have become a more compact and lighter version of these filters, which have long been supplanted by paper ones.
And errors in filter maintenance make wear rates only higher. Someone manages not to impregnate filters, someone uses cheap aerosols or oils that are completely unsuitable for impregnation. Try rubbing a drop of branded impregnation oil between your fingers: it is so sticky that even wiping it off your fingers is not easy. Another oil will not give any noticeable improvement in cleaning compared to a filter that is not impregnated at all.
The only plus for engines that have not been subjected to serious tuning, from the installation of "nuleviks", can be considered the absence of the need for regular replacement: you need to wash and re-impregnate the same filter in time.
Video: Nuleviki air filters - evil or tuning?
One of the ways to increase the power of a car's internal combustion engine is to reduce the resistance in the air intake - exhaust system. It is known that the removal of the muffler and catalyst can increase engine power by up to 10%.
Likewise, completely removing the air filter can increase power by up to 8-10%. That is why in the 20th century, air filters were simply not installed on many racing cars. However, at the same time, the ingress of dust particles into the intake system significantly reduced the engine life.
Considering that modern racing car engines cost fabulous money, the designers were given the task of developing air filters with zero resistance to the intake air, and it was solved. Now such filters (car enthusiasts often call them “nulevik”) are affordable for ordinary car owners and their popularity is increasing.
Why you need a zero and how it works
During the operation of an internal combustion engine, it is necessary to protect the air intake duct from dust, small particles, fluff, insects and other substances that are not in a gaseous state. In principle, even gaseous water (steam) also destroys the piston group.
To protect the engine in all cars equipped with internal combustion engines, an air filter is installed. Without such a filter, the engine life can be reduced up to 10 times.
On most cars, regular filters are made of a special, as a rule, paper composition. Such material has the smallest pores (holes - micropores), which prevent the smallest particles from passing through the filter.
The more such pores, the less resistance the filter will have to the passage of air. Therefore, most air filters are made in the form of an "accordion" to increase the area and number of pores.
Video - what problems can arise when using the nulevik in various modes:
During the operation of the car, such air filters quickly become clogged, as their resistance increases.
The idea behind zero resistance filters is that the pore size in them is enlarged to slightly impede the passage of air flow. The filter material itself (usually a fabric base made of a special material) attracts dust and small particles to itself, as it were, where they settle. This "attraction" is based on the physical and chemical processes of electrization and adsorption.
There are two main types of filtering:
- Dry filtration. Filters of this type are less efficient. Studies show that the maximum increase in engine power is less than 5%.
- impregnated filters. Their efficiency is higher (up to 7% power increase). Dust and particles settle on oily impregnation.
Where to install nulevik in a car
There are three options here:
1. In an abnormal place, that is, separately from the standard air intake system.
This option allows you to install a filter of any design that will fit under the hood of an existing car.
There is a big disadvantage in this installation method. Air in the engine will come from the engine compartment, and not from the external intake.
In addition, the air will be heated by a running engine, that is, less dense, therefore, with a lower oxygen content. This minus eats up almost all the advantages of a zero resistance air filter.
2. At the regular place.
In this case, it is necessary to select a filter of a compatible design. In modern cars, air filters generally have a rectangular (trapezoidal) configuration.
The maximum efficiency of rectangular filters with zero resistance does not exceed 5% (cylindrical - about 7%).
3. Installation on a modified intake system design.
The most effective installation method, however, requires certain skills and additional costs to re-equip the standard air duct system and intakes.
Pros and cons of zero resistance air filters
First about the poles:
- increase in engine power. Specifically, it is possible to judge the power increase factor only on the basis of testing for each installation option. Do not trust advertising. Efficiency can be from 1 to 8%;
- reduction in fuel consumption. For car owners, this characteristic can be decisive when installing an emergency zero;
- for dry filters, the procedures for installing and maintaining the filter practically do not change (it should be remembered that they are less effective than serviced zero filters);
- changing the "sound" of the engine. This plus is more suitable for the younger generation of motorists.
- price. The price can be up to 10,000 rubles. An average nulevik will cost about 2,000 rubles, but this is more than the cost of an ordinary consumable.
- an abnormal installation of a zero-resistance filter may have negative efficiency if heated engine compartment air enters it;
- the need for maintenance (impregnation) of the filter of zero resistance after 2 - 3 thousand kilometers simultaneously with cleaning. The procedure takes time and additional costs;
- its installation is effective only in the complex of car tuning works. Without improving the efficiency of the exhaust system, often the installation of such a filter does not make sense at all (especially with a clogged catalyst);
- not the fact that the engine management system will adequately perceive the increase in air flow. In the air intake system of every modern car there is a flow meter (). It instantly “calculates” the change in mass air consumption and corrects the engine. That is, when installing a nulevik, it is rational to perform chip tuning of the car engine control unit. This operation is costly;
- there is no 100% proof of the effectiveness of installing zero-resistance filters in conventional cars. For racing cars, everything is clear: every additional horse is expensive there, regardless of the costs. The installers are professionals. Control and adjustment is carried out on professional equipment. At the disposal of ordinary motorists - only advertising;
- in case of abnormal installation of the Federal Tax Service, questions may arise during the inspection.
Video - does it make sense to install a zero if additional tuning work is not carried out:
How to properly serve
Zero resistance filter maintenance sequence:
- cleaning with a special brush (you can use soft clothes, you can additionally use a vacuum cleaner);
- washing the filter (it is possible with special compositions, even household “Weasel” is suitable);
- drying for 12 hours (not close to the battery);
- application of a special impregnation for the Federal Tax Service from the side of the air inlet - two times.
Do not exceed the amount of impregnation, as its excess may enter the engine. The packaging of the Federal Tax Service and care products must contain instructions for use and operation. For some filter models, the maintenance sequence may be different.
Almost all motorists have a desire to increase the power and dynamics of their car. At the same time, everyone uses their own methods, based on their capabilities and level of knowledge.
Some optimize the engine, others install various body kits and spoilers, others use high-quality “consumables”, and so on.
But experienced car owners know about another popular method - installing a zero resistance filter.
So what is this device? What are the differences between "nulevik" and standard filters? Does it make sense to spend money? Let's figure it out.
What is a zero resistance filter for and where is it used?
The task of the air filter installed in each car is to clean the flows entering the engine from various “garbage”. But here the “stick” is at two ends.
On the one hand, installing a filter allows you to clean the air, and on the other hand, it creates additional resistance to the flow.
The result is a decrease in power, which is especially noticeable as the filter element gets dirty.
Zero resistance filter is an alternative to the classic filter. The main purpose is to reduce the overall air resistance without compromising the quality of cleaning.
It is believed that the installation of such a filter allows you to achieve an increase in engine power by an average of 5-7%. At the same time, it is almost impossible to feel the difference from the installation. There are only facts to be believed.
Nuleviki are actively used on sports cars for the same purpose - to add power to the power unit. At the same time, any alternatives are not even considered.
But it is worth considering that the difference between sports cars is not only in the installation of a special filter, but also in a more advanced exhaust system that allows the release of large volumes of exhaust gases even at maximum speed.
How is it different from other types of filters?
The main difference between the "nulevik" lies in its design. Classic filters installed on most cars are made of paper (more precisely, from compressed fibers).
The flow of air masses passes through small holes in the fibers, and then goes to the motor.
As soon as the fibers become clogged, the resistance also increases, because the air needs to find new ways to overcome the obstacle. If nothing is done, then the engine power drops.
Based on current standards, the filter paper should be thicker with maximum fiber compaction. With this design, high-quality cleaning is ensured, but the resistance is already too high immediately after installation.
The design of the "nulevik" is based on the principle of resistance reduction.
At the heart of the device are several layers of cotton, which effectively trap dust and dirt. In this case, the retained particles, in fact, become part of the product.
Due to this, the efficiency of the filter element is higher and one square centimeter of surface receives more dust than its predecessor.
The cotton cloth is sandwiched in an aluminum screen, which increases the filtering surface. The developers claim that the working part of the "nulevik" is 4-5 times larger than in the classic filter, which ensures a long service life and less resistance of the product.
This is achieved due to another factor - the presence of a special coating (oil) on the cotton, which traps dirt without harming the flow.
The principle of the filter, its features
The principle of operation of the "nulevik" is based on two factors:
- high-quality cleaning of the flow entering the motor;
- minimum air resistance.
The effectiveness of the zero resistance filter is due to the unique design and the use of cotton (rather than paper) material.
The incoming stream is filtered from dust without much contamination for the product. Thanks to a special impregnation, particles entering through the filter settle on the surface and do not interfere with the flow of air to the combustion chamber.
As a result, a sufficient amount of air enters the intake manifold, and the power of the power unit increases.
Advantages and disadvantages of "zero"
As practice shows, such filters have their positive and negative qualities.
Let's start with the pros:
- increase in power by 5-7%. Of course, this may not be noticeable to the driver, but when installed in combination with other types, the result can be felt for yourself;
- change in the sound characteristics of the motor. It is believed that the filter element makes a special sound, which changes the overall rumble from the engine compartment. Many motorists install "zeros" for this very reason;
- the appearance of the space under the hood changes - it becomes more sporty.
Cons of "zero":
- the need for constant care, which not all car owners like to do;
- Affordable filters are of poor quality, so they clog almost immediately. The oil also gets dirty faster, which leads to a decrease in the resource of the power unit.
How to take care of these filters?
As already mentioned, one of the main disadvantages of the filter is the need for regular maintenance.
After purchasing and installing the product, it must be washed and processed regularly. At the same time, processing according to the principle “removed-washed-installed” will no longer work - a special algorithm is required here.
The frequency of flushing is every 5-6 thousand kilometers. If the car is operated in areas with high dust content or off-road, then it is necessary to clean the filter more often.
If you forget about servicing the device, then the car becomes “gluttonous” and “dumb”.
The algorithm of actions is as follows:
There are even special kits for caring for “nullers”, which include washing and impregnation. A few manipulations that are described above, and the product looks like new.
Please note that the total number of washes may be limited to around 20. After that, it is worth installing a new filter.
Installation Features
Many motorists make a big mistake - they incorrectly set the "zero" because of which he is not able to perform his functions normally.
For example, the filter is installed too close to a hot engine or exhaust manifold. Here it is time to remember physics.
The density of cold air is higher than that of hot air. As a result, cold air is easier to "shove" into the combustion chamber than hot air.
Therefore, the “nulevik” should be located as far as possible from any heat sources (motor, exhaust manifold, etc.).
In addition, a dirty filter will have to be “repaired”, which will also take some time.
Today there are many models of zero filters that are designed for mounting on various types of cars - with an injector or a carburetor.
The material can be mesh, foam rubber or cotton. Foam rubber filters have the highest degree of purification, but they also have more resistance than their “brothers”.
Installation of the “nulevik” on different cars is done in different ways, but in general, you need to follow the following algorithm:
- discard the connector from the DMRV (mass fuel flow sensor);
- use a screwdriver to disconnect the rubber tube from the MAF;
- remove the sensor fasteners from the housing (for this you will have to unscrew a couple of bolts);
- dismantle the case and remove the rubber clips (use platypuses or pliers);
- unscrew the mount from the group of wires;
- fasten a couple of bolts from the DMRV retainer to the “nulevik” fastener;
- put a new filter on the DMRV, stretch the clamping clamp and connect the sensor.
That's all, the new filter is installed on the car.
How to make a zero filter with your own hands?
Some motorists, in the desire to save money, decide to make a “nulevik” with their own hands.
As a source, a factory round filter is used, which was once mounted on Moskvich cars.
To make a "null" you can use different methods. We will describe one of them below.
You will need improvised tools (foam rubber, sealant, sharp knife, glue, and others). The total price of the issue is no more than 3-4 US dollars.
It should be noted right away that the converted “nulevik” is unlikely to add power to your car. The reason is outdated technologies that were used in the production of cars in the 70s and 80s.
When creating filters, manufacturers thought little about the importance of cleaning, so old products only trap very large pieces of dirt. So, by "creating" a zero filter, you are taking a certain risk and can "kill" your engine.
By the way, the only car where such a zero filter will have to “go to court” is Moskvich. At the same time, there are owners who immediately cut the walls to eliminate excess flow resistance.
If you still decide to experiment, then the sequence will be as follows:
- remove the standard device;
- from a piece of plywood, make a rectangular adapter with a hole.
Drill four more holes and fix the adapter to the air meter sensor.
Before that, install a piece of pipe in the hole and seal the cracks with sealant;
- make additional holes in two circles of plywood. At the same time, on the outer circle, make a hole of a larger diameter, and on the inner one (installed near the air meter) - according to the diameter of the pipe being installed. The latter shrinks with a sealant;
- make 3 bars with a length of about 16-18 centimeters and use them to fasten the circles. The result is a kind of cylindrical figure. Since there is no plywood in the bars, it is necessary to make holes around the edges for mounting self-tapping screws (otherwise the plywood may be damaged);
- to prevent foam rubber from falling out, make a case. For its manufacture, you can take a mesh for GVL joints. The advantage is the presence of a sticky base, which will allow you to immediately fix it;
- after that, foam rubber is glued from the outside with the help of a thermosealant, which allows you to securely and quickly fix the device;
- fix with a sealant a couple of pieces of foam rubber for the side of the barrel;
- put on foam rubber and fasten the plywood bars with ties.
The standard air filter performs the function of air purification, i.e. protects against ingress of dust particles in the cylinder-piston group of the engine.
Efficient air filtration results in a loss in engine power.
Conventional paper filters such as: Bosch, Mann, Champion, Fram, SCT, Hengst have high airflow resistance because the filter material is very dense. The greater the resistance, the greater the power loss. This is especially noticeable before the change date, when the filter is "clogged".
The design of the zero resistance filter allows you to minimize the resistance at the inlet without reducing the filtering capacity and increase engine power. On sports racing cars, in order to add "a few horses" to the engine, a zero-resistance filter is installed.
Zero resistance filter base- a filter element with a multi-layer cotton gauze impregnated with a special composition, sandwiched between a pressed aluminum screen.
A conventional paper filter is able to filter the air flow directly with only one surface. The design of the zero-resistance filter provides air filtration from the entire surface, which means it allows you to trap more dust. Dust particles settle sequentially on layers of interlaced cotton fibers treated with a special oil impregnation.
In addition, the resource of a conventional air filter is limited and averages up to 15 thousand km, after which the air filter must be replaced. Cleaning this air filter will not bring any effect. As for the air filter of zero resistance, its resource is about 100-150 thousand km or more. The filter is easy to wash and clean with water and a little Fairy (usually cleaning is done every 5 thousand km.)
So, what will the installation of a zero resistance filter give the engine?
Fuel economy by 1-4%. Due to the powerful air flow and effective filtration.
Increasing engine power to 3-5 hp without reducing the filtering capacity. The filter has a more complex configuration that provides low resistance, but at the same time effective filtration, protecting the fuel system from clogging and the piston system from wear.
Reusable use - you get rid of the need to replace the filter every 15 thousand km. The filter is easily washed with ordinary water using Fairy, after which it restores its original properties.
Induction noise - after installing such a filter, a little more unique induction noise and several additional horses (up to 5 for injector VAZs) will appear under the hood, and torque will also be added in the medium and low speeds.
Installation process
I bought this Japanese-made zero-resistance filter for 450 rubles for installation on a VAZ engine (for comparison, a regular air filter costs about 150 rubles).
We unscrew the 4 screws securing the air filter housing cover with a Phillips screwdriver.
and remove the housing cover
Loosen the clamp on the air intake pipe from the air filter housing.
Remove the wiring harness from the mass air flow sensor.
Remove the mass air flow unit from the air filter housing.
And remove the air filter housing.
Remove the clamping ring from the inlet side of the air filter housing.
The block is ready for installation of a zero resistance filter.
Tighten the zero resistance filter clamp to the mass air flow unit, from the side of the removed filter housing.
We insert our design into the air intake pipe and tighten the clamp.
Zero resistance filter installed and tested.
The zero resistance filter must be fixed so that it does not hang out, otherwise you risk breaking the brake pipes.
You should not use similar fasteners for mounting a zero-resistance filter, see below, because. these fasteners cause oil to leak from the places from which they are attached and no gasket and sealant simply help, believe me.
The correct fastening of the zero resistance filter is carried out using the plate shown in the photo below.
Alexander Borisov, Samara
