ECU: where is it located and how to replace it? When pads need to be replaced and how to determine pad wear.

The efficiency of the brakes is the most important criterion for safe driving. At the same time, the brake mechanisms have a consumable part - pads, which are directly involved in the process of stopping the vehicle. The braking distance of the car, as well as the comfort of deceleration, depend on their condition and degree of wear. How to determine the period for replacing the rear and front pads on VAZ cars of the “tenth” family and directly carry out the replacement work on your own?

When do you need to replace the pads and how to determine the degree of wear?

The service life of pads on VAZ-2110 cars and its derivative modifications is, on average, 15-20 thousand kilometers for the front, and 40-50 thousand for the rear. Nevertheless, their wear directly depends on a number of factors. So, in urban driving, the degree of wear is higher, as well as when operating on dusty roads, when there is a high risk of mechanical particles getting on the working surfaces.

The main symptom of a malfunction is the appearance of a characteristic whistle during braking. This is due to the fact that the design of the block provides signal strips-indicators, and when the working surface of the block is worn to a critical minimum, the strips are exposed and create this sound.

Along with this, malfunctions can be expressed in the form of a metallic rattle in the event of the destruction of the friction layer and the exposure of the metal structure of the block. At the same time, during the braking stage, vibrations and knocks may appear, as well as a characteristic creak in the area of ​​​​the front wheel (or the rear wheel if the rear pads become unusable). In other words, the pads whistle, rattle or knock, giving out a malfunction.

Thickness difference between old and new pads

Necessary tools to change parts

Changing the pads on the VAZ-2110 on your own is not difficult if you have basic skills. This will require:

• keys for 13 and 17,
• regular cutters,
• car jack.

If the rear pads are changed, then the set should contain:

• head "7" with a collar,
• pliers,
• head "30" in case there are difficulties with removing the drum.

The process of replacing the front brake pads on the VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

Replacing the front pads for cars of the "tenth" family is quite simple. For this you need:

1. Jack up the car and remove the front wheel.
2. Bend the locking plate, gaining access to the bolt and unscrew it by setting the keys “by 17” inside, and “by 13” from above.

   Bend the lock plate

   Loosen the bottom fixing screw

3. Unscrew the bolt located on the caliper and remove it together with the plate.

   Dismantling the bolt and plate

4. Pry off the caliper and then open it.

   Pry off the caliper with a screwdriver to open it.

5. Remove brake pads.

   Removing worn out brake pads

6. Using a wrench, press the brake cylinder into the caliper body and cut off the wire responsible for indicating pad wear.

   We cut the wire

7. Disconnect the connector and remove the remaining wire.

   Disconnecting the connector

   We take out the wire

8. Connect the new connector and wire.
9. We assemble in the reverse order.
10. After completing the work, press the brake pedal several times to restore the working efficiency of the brake system.

The process takes about 30 minutes for one wheel and can be done with minimal auto repair knowledge.

How to change the front with your own hands: video

How to replace rear

Replacing the rear pads on cars of the VAZ-2110 series and their derivatives is somewhat more difficult, since they are of the drum type. Replacement work is carried out as follows:

1. The back of the car is jacked up, after which the wheel is removed.
2. The guide studs located on the drum are unscrewed (in case of souring of the studs, it is possible to remove the drum together with the hub after unscrewing it).

   Work is carried out with a key of 12

3. If the drum does not dismantle, we tap it.

   It is better to tap through a wooden spacer

   Or with a mounting spatula

4. Using long-nose pliers, the cotter pin located on the left side is removed.
5. Using pliers, disconnect the spring that tightens the brake pads at the bottom.

   We pry the spring

   

It will be useful for a novice car enthusiast to learn how to remove a bumper on a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112. This information will come in handy when replacing, repairing or tuning it.

Work with the front bumper Lada

The most common reason for changing the bumper and fenders is damage. Often, the front structure suffers from potholes in the road, frontal and side collisions, while the rear one suffers from unsuccessful parking maneuvers, as well as drivers who do not respect the speed limit and driving distance. They also remove bumpers for tuning installation of additional headlights, parking sensors or a video camera.

Before starting work, prepare the necessary set of tools: a cross screwdriver, an 8x10 mm open-end wrench or a socket with 8 mm and 10 mm heads (nozzles).

We remove the grate from the lower hooks and separate it

Having lifted, we release the grille from the sockets of the lower fasteners and completely separate it.

We attach the front bumper to the body from above with two 8 mm screws. From below, it is attracted to the engine protective casing with five 10 mm bolts. Additionally, with two self-tapping screws, we attach the structure to the fender liner on each side. The bosom also has two side protrusions with mounting holes in combination with 8 mm screws that serve to fix them in the body brackets.

How to remove the bumper yourself

The structure is dismantled in the following way:

1. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, loosen the tightness of the fastening of the lower side to the engine protective cover at five points.
2. Using a Phillips screwdriver on each side, unscrew the screws that secure the bumper to the fender liner on the underside.
3. In the same way, we release the upper part from fastening to the fender liner.

With an 8 mm socket wrench, we unscrew one screw on each side.

With the same key, we disconnect the fasteners on the front panel of the hood.

We move the bumper forward, disengaging the technological protrusions.

Photo gallery: step by step instructions for dismantling the structure

Detach the engine apron Detach the fender liner from the underside Loosen the fasteners at the top of the fender liner Unscrew the fixing screw of the bracket Detach from the front panel Complete separation of the front bumper

Remember that only the presence of high-quality tools will ensure an excellent result of work.

Video: how to change the grille

Installing the bumper is also easy. It is enough to follow the reverse sequence of actions performed during dismantling.

Video: what is the difference between the process of installing a tuned front bumper

Removing the rear bumper VAZ

Of the tools for this operation, you will need a 10 mm key. Removal work is carried out in the following order:

1. Using a 10 wrench, unscrew the two nuts of the lower attachment to the body.
2. We do the same with the two upper screws located at the rear lights.
3. Disconnect the license plate light power connector.
4. We unscrew the terminal of the negative wire attached to the threaded point of the body inside the trunk.
5. We deduce the design from technological hooks.

Photo gallery: the main stages of work to detach the fasteners and replace the part

Loosening the lower fasteners Loosening the upper fastenings Disconnecting the power connector for number and weight lights Completely detaching the rear bumper

Unlike the 2110 model, the VAZ 2111 has a bumper mounted at the top with four screws and does not carry a number plate light. Its installation is carried out in the reverse order. The purchase of a new replacement part will cost around 4.5 thousand rubles.

Video: how to replace the rear bumper without the involvement of specialists

Information on the rules for replacing the front and rear bumpers of a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 car will expand the technical horizons of a novice motorist. With minimal knowledge and skills in maintaining your car, you can replace the bumper yourself if necessary. The ability to remove and install this part without the involvement of car service specialists will save time, money and nerve cells of the owner.

VAZ 2112 is practically an analogue of the "tens" known to Russian motorists. Mass production of the car of this brand began in 2000.

(see picture).

The first cars were equipped with a timing belt engine. Despite a number of improvements, their typical problem was "bent" valves, which deformed during a belt break. In 2004, the problem was solved by manufacturers by increasing the depth of the piston groove.

However, modern drivers still face the need to replace valves, although not as often. In general, this process is not difficult, so every driver is able to make repairs without contacting the service.

So, the valves in the car are an element of the cylinder head (cylinder head). It is this part that is responsible for the combustion of fuel in the engine and the removal of exhaust gases (see figure).

Its constituent elements include:

1. Cover for protection against mechanical damage.
2. Rubber gasket that performs the function of sealing. It is located in the place where the cover is attached.
3. In front of the block is the camshaft drive and chain tensioner.
4. combustion chambers.
5. Threaded holes for injectors and spark plugs.
6. Holes for fastening the input and output manifolds.

The top of the cylinder head also contains other parts such as camshafts, thrust washers, etc. The gas distribution mechanism (GRM) is also located here.

The non-removable parts of the cylinder head include valve seats, which serve to ensure the tightness of the timing. Non-removable parts also include valve guides.

A typical problem faced by drivers of VAZ 2112 cars is the need to replace valves. The causes of failure can be different, often they fail due to overheating of the car engine.

1. The presence of knocking during engine operation.
2. Stopping the engine when starting the car.
3. Reducing compression in the cylinders.

The presence of any of these signs may be a signal of valve malfunction.

Of course, the best solution in this situation is to contact the service center. However, a difficult financial situation or lack of time often does not allow resorting to the services of professionals. Then you can try to fix the damage yourself.

How to replace valves with your own hands?

Replacing valves VAZ 2112 is as follows:

1. First of all, you need to pull out all the removable parts of the cylinder head, as well as disconnect the wires.
2. Then the cylinder head cover is removed.
3. Carbon deposits are removed from the cylinders. This can be done by putting a special brush on the drill.
4. Next, the valves must be dried out and removed with tweezers. To do this, you need to tighten the spring.
5. Diamond grit is applied to the edge of the valve.
6. The valve returns.
7. The cylinder head is being assembled.

Point 5 presents a particular difficulty. It is worth dwelling on it in more detail. So, grinding is carried out as follows:

1. Slide the rubber tube onto the directional valve.
2. Scroll the valve until a uniform trace of diamond grit is formed on its edge.
3. Remove any remaining lapping paste.

If this method does not help, the valve should be replaced with a new one.

Advantages of the 16-valve engine

VAZ 2112 with 16 engine valves has a number of advantages over cars of the same brand, but with fewer valves. Its main advantage lies in the possibility of achieving maximum engine power, regardless of the type of the latter. (see picture).

For comparison:

1. VAZ 2112 with a volume of 1500 cubic cm, has 77 horsepower.
2. VAZ 2112 of the same volume can have a power of up to 90 horsepower.

This difference is possible due to the fact that in the second case, the filling of the cylinders with a heat-air mixture is much higher.

In addition, the advantages of a 16-valve engine:

1. Better performance of the cooling system and, as a result, greater unit strength.
2. The possibility of increasing the detonation resistance of the motor. This is especially important if low quality fuel is used.
3. With 16 valves, the intake and exhaust tracts are spaced on opposite sides of the cylinder head, which facilitates their installation, repair, etc.

Other cases in which the dismantling of the cylinder head is required

Of course, it is not necessary to remove the cylinder head for every breakdown. This is only necessary if a major repair is needed. These "major" cases include:

1. Gasket wear.
2. Formation of soot on details.
3. valve deformation.
4. The need to replace the guide bushings.
5. Camshaft failure, etc.

Of course, the repair is independent or in the service, in any case, implies certain financial costs. To ensure the smooth operation of the engine, you need regular diagnostics of the cylinder head. The use of high quality fuel is recommended. In addition, try to prevent the car from overheating - because of this, the cylinder head can lead.

If some points remain incomprehensible to you, then you can visually familiarize yourself with the process of replacing valves by watching the video:

2 Tuning cars VAZ

Installation of oil nozzles on a VAZ 2112 car

The main unit of the VAZ 2112 car is the engine. Severe temperature conditions of operation of the unit lead to its overheating, especially the main elements, which are pistons.
To reduce the temperature during the movement of the car, their bottoms are cooled with oil. For these purposes, special nozzles are pressed into the second, third, fourth and fifth main bearing supports.
These are tubes with spring-loaded balls inside. When the engine starts to work at high speeds, an increase in oil pressure occurs, which presses on the balls in the nozzles.
The springs begin to compress, holes open in the tubes, the oil of the VAZ 2112 nozzle falls on the piston from below. At idle, there is a slight oil pressure, the pressure reducing valves that contain oil nozzles VAZ 2112 are closed, which ensures normal lubrication of the crankshaft liners.

Tip: When overhauling the engine or repairing it, you need to change the oil nozzles on the VAZ 2112 to new ones. During operation, they wear out, and most of all they clog, the valve spring weakens. This leads to a decrease in engine speed, a drop in oil pressure and poor spraying.

Advantages of oil injectors

The pistons of the cylinder block are cast from a special aluminum alloy. Three piston rings are mounted on each element: at the bottom - oil scraper, at the top there are two compression rings.
On the engine model of a VAZ 2112 car, the pistons have a flat bottom, on which there are four recesses for the valves. The original oil nozzle VAZ 2112 for piston cooling is carried out on an engine with sixteen valves.
Due to the additional cooling of the pistons and lubrication of the cylinders, the engine life is increased.
Installation of oil cooling jets allows:

• Reduce wear of cylinders and connecting rod and piston group.
• The piston is subjected to significantly lower thermal loads, which do not allow changing the geometric dimensions of the parts.
• When starting the engine in cold weather, oil is supplied to the pistons quickly enough.

Replacement of oil nozzles

How well the oil nozzles work in the VAZ 2112 block depends on:

• Lubrication of the cylinder mirror, which protects it from scuffing.
• Cooling of the lower part of the piston.
• Removal of excess heat.

The photo shows new and old nozzles. Their difference is only in color, but regardless of this, the old ones need to be replaced.

Oil nozzles of the VAZ 2112 engine on the left - old, on the right - new

The main reason why oil injectors fail is the destruction of the valve spring. Because of this, the pressure on the crankshaft main journals drops, which leads to increased wear of the connecting rod and main journal bearings.
To replace the VAZ 2112 oil nozzles, you need to knock them out towards the crankshaft with a punch made of aluminum or copper.

Tip: Do-it-yourself work must be done carefully so as not to damage the mounting holes.

• The old nozzle is removed and a new one is installed in its place, from the crankshaft side of the vase.
• Not with strong hammer blows, a new element is pressed in. In this case, you need to use a spacer made of soft material.
• The instruction indicates that it must be planted with effort, to a certain place. Then the nozzle rests and does not go further.

Tip: You need to make sure that the oil nozzle on the VAZ 2112 does not block the oil channel of the engine block.

Installing an oil nozzle on a VAZ 2112 car

How oil nozzles change, the 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine can be seen in the video. With the timely replacement of clogged oil nozzles, the cost of engine repair will be significantly reduced.

Tuning cars VAZ

In cars of VAZ models that do not have oil nozzles, and the “engine is hot”, it is advisable to install such elements from the VAZ 2112 engine. In this case, the most loaded parts of the engine will receive additional cooling.
An oil nozzle VAZ 2112 is installed using a drill in the cylinder block. Initially, a hole of small diameter is drilled, then a large diameter to a depth of 5 millimeters.
There is not much room for nozzles, so the top of the nozzle is cut off, as shown in the figure below.

Refinement of the oil nozzle of a VAZ 2112 car

It is better to install the nozzles as shown in the figure with red dots.

Installing an oil nozzle from a VAZ 2112 engine on a VAZ 2121

In this case, the device will “sit” more in the block, and with the correct direction of the oil spray hole, the crankshaft will not touch. Using a hammer and a file, if necessary, you can correct the installation of the nozzle.
You need to act carefully so as not to damage the body of the part, it cracks and breaks very easily.

A break in the timing belt (timing) of a 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine can lead to bending of the valves. The result is an expensive overhaul of the engine. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2112 in a timely manner. Moreover, you can do it yourself.

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When is replacement required?

The belt has a resource - an established service life. If this period has expired, then the spare part must be replaced even if it looks normal. After all, a break can happen at any time.

When asked how many kilometers it is necessary to replace the belt so that the belt does not break, experienced motorists give different answers. Some believe that after 50-60 thousand kilometers. Others specify: such a replacement period is relevant for an 8v (eight-valve) engine. If a 16v (sixteen-valve) motor is installed, then the replacement must be done after 30-45 thousand kilometers.

In the video, a practitioner shows how the timing belts look after a long run and whether to trust the advertisement. Shot by ExpertR channel.

Choosing a new belt

You need to choose the right size belt. The length of the product should be 742 mm. Important for motorists is the question of which manufacturer is better to choose.

Today, high-quality products are produced by both foreign and domestic suppliers:

1. Volga Automobile Plant. The factory belt Lada 21126-1006040 is considered to be extremely durable and reliable and quite competitive in comparison with imported analogues. And the price wins.
2. Domestic belts BRT "Balakovo". According to experts, they are not inferior to foreign analogues. According to many VAZ owners, they are superior to them.
3. Bosch belts. The brand is synonymous with product quality. This Bosch belt fulfills its due date without any problems. But fakes under the brand are quite frequent. The quality of counterfeit products cannot be compared with either Russian or foreign products.
4. Gates 5631xs. These belts are popular due to their durability. The risk of breakage during the service life is practically absent.
5. Lynx 137 fl22. The Japanese belt is relatively inexpensive compared to other imported models. But even less quality, has a smaller resource.

How to change with your own hands?

Before you change the timing belt yourself, you need to study the timing diagram, stock up on the necessary tools, and also imagine the order of work in the form of a sequence of actions.

Before replacing, study the timing diagram

There are differences between modifications of the VAZ 2112, but the basic algorithm is approximately the same for all modifications. This algorithm can also be used on VAZ vehicles of other modifications, for example, 2110. You need to have a good manual explaining the progress of work step by step. And if there is at least a little experience in servicing and minor car repairs, we calmly carry out timing maintenance with our own hands and change the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

The set of basic tools is small:

• end heads for 10, 15 and 17;
• box or open-end wrench for 17;
• large flat screwdriver;
• wrench for tensioner roller (if power steering is installed on the car).

From the materials you need a new timing belt.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Work begins with the removal of the "minus" terminal of the battery.
2. With a head of 10, six bolts are unscrewed and the cover of the gas distribution mechanism is removed.
3. The crankshaft sensor chip is disconnected.
4. The crankshaft sensor mount is unscrewed. Then you need to remove the sensor.
5. The sensor hole must be aligned with the place on the pulley where there are no teeth. This is done so that the crankshaft sensor can detect TDC (top dead center). In addition, the non-toothed section is used to block the pulley. After alignment in the sensor hole, you need to put the hexagon on 12, and fix the pulley.
6. With the pulley locked, the alternator nut is unscrewed.
7. The belt tensioner bolt is loosened. After that, the belt is removed. Often during this operation, the tension and support rollers, and the pump also change.
8. Installing a new timing belt. There are two ways to install this part correctly. First: put on the belt with the tension roller removed. The tension is adjusted after the roller is installed. Second: install the belt by turning the exhaust camshaft pulley with a 17 wrench.
9. Next, you need to tighten the timing belt with the adjusting bolt. It rotates with a key of 10. Clockwise rotation increases the tension, against - weakens.

Replacing the belt on a car with power steering

If the car has power steering. then the procedure for replacing the timing belt has some differences. Before starting work, it is necessary to remove the hydraulic booster reservoir, since it blocks access to the timing.

In addition, machines with power steering do not have an adjusting bolt. The belt is tensioned using a tension roller and a special key. If there is no such key, you can use a homemade fixture of two nails and a screwdriver. During operation, it is necessary to check the degree of tension of the belt, and, if necessary, tighten it. In conclusion, you need to tighten the tension roller nut.

Features of labeling

Before tightening the belt and tightening the bolts, it is necessary to check the position of the marks. If the marks are set incorrectly, this will at best manifest itself in a decrease in the power and traction characteristics of the engine. In the worst case, in those engines where valve bending is possible, it can occur even with a fully functional timing belt.

In order to avoid these problems, you must follow the order of labeling:

1. After installing the timing belt, but before tightening it, the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump housing are aligned.
2. Marks are placed on the pulleys of the intake and exhaust camshafts.
3. The belt is tensioned, the tension roller nut is tightened.
4. The crankshaft rotates two turns. If after this check the position of the marks remains the same, you can replace the crankshaft sensor, connect the power connector and replace the timing cover. Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2112 is completed.

The steps for replacing the timing belt can be seen in the photo below.

Blocking the crankshaft pulley Marking on the crankshaft Setting marks on the valve pulleys

Issue price

In the case of self-replacement of one timing belt, the cost of repair is determined only by the price of the belt. This is from 630-650 rubles. The rollers cost about the same, so a repair kit consisting of a belt and two rollers can be purchased for about 2 thousand rubles. If it is decided to replace the pump as well, then another 1200–1300 rubles are added to this figure.

Compared to work in a car service, self-replacing one belt will save about 1,500 rubles, and replacing a belt and rollers will save about 3 thousand rubles.

Consequences of an untimely change

If the timing belt is not changed in time, it may break. While driving on the highway, this can lead to an accident. If the accident was avoided, you will have to spend money on a tow truck to deliver the car to the place of repair. In the event of a belt break, the movement of the camshafts and valves will stop, but the movement of the crankshaft will continue, which may result in damage to the valves as a result of hitting them with pistons. Repair may be limited to replacing the timing belt and rollers. But only if an 8 valve or 16v 1600cc engine is installed. cm, that is, safe in terms of bending the valves (21114, 21124 or just 124).

In the event of a bend in the valves, an overhaul of the engine will be required, which will cost from 20-30 thousand rubles. In some cases, it will be cheaper to purchase a new engine, although this will lead to other problems - registration. Based on the foregoing, it is much easier, safer and cheaper to change an inexpensive part on time.