When purchasing a car as a property, each owner must understand that this is another family member who will have to devote time. There is not only time for travel, but also for service. One of these areas of service is the soundproofing of the car.
Why you need to remove noise
Modern middle and business class cars are absolutely silent. Traveling in them is comfortable. But what if your class is lower and during the ride it makes some noise, a little annoying for both the driver and passengers? That's right, get rid of the noise. In addition to inconvenience, there are other reasons for this:
- Safety while driving, which is considered passive. Various sounds made by the car while driving distract the driver. Therefore, proper sound insulation (full or partial) is the key to safe driving. There is, however, one downside to this. The driver gets used to a certain sound mode. And if it is violated, then the person is alert, because any additional noise can become a signal of a breakdown of some part of the car. So, you need to go to a car service.
- Comfortable driving conditions. Experts say that properly soundproofing a car means reducing the penetration of sounds from outside by 1.5 times. And, therefore, a trip in a car will be many times more comfortable and convenient. Moreover, in recent years, own transport has become a second home for most people.
- By installing noise insulation in a car, we solve two problems at once: the first is to reduce the noise regime inside the car, the second is additional anti-corrosion protection of the car body.
As you can see, the reasons are serious enough to start soundproofing your own car without delay.
Soundproof materials
Important. All manufacturers of soundproofing materials for cars produce them in such a way that this rather complicated process can be done by hand. And it did not use any complex tools and equipment.
- These are the so-called vibration materials or vibration dampers.
- Soundproof.
- Thermal insulation.
According to the last position, we can say that the heaters used for car decoration have good soundproof properties. So their installation already guarantees a decrease in sound transmission. True, experts note that it is necessary to approach sound insulation for a car in a complex way - these are both insulation and sound insulation connected in one place. It is not difficult to do it yourself, the main thing is to follow the sequence and nuances of the process exactly.
And one more classification. All soundproofing products for the car are produced as self-adhesive. They can be applied with heat or cold.
Advice. Some novice masters often use a regular hair dryer to heat soundproofing. In no case should you do this, it gives the wrong temperature. It is best to purchase a special hair dryer for this type of work, since it is inexpensive.
- If the task is to carry out sound insulation with anti-corrosion requirements, then it is best to choose it with a foil outer layer. The foil will perfectly cope with mechanical loads, and besides, it will keep the heat inside the car interior.
- When buying, be sure to consider the installation location of sound insulation. The thickness of the material you choose will depend on this.
Now let's move on to the main question that torments consumers (car owners), what kind of sound insulation is better, which experts will advise you to choose? To answer it, consider the categories mentioned above.
Vibro isolation
This is composite insulation. It consists of several layers, which are based on rubber. It is he who is the main restraining barrier that restrains vibration waves emanating from the car engine and its suspensions. And everyone knows that the vibration of the car on a rough road is the cause of the inconvenience of driving.
Soundproof
- noise absorbing;
- vibration-absorbing.
The first type is sound insulation based on either foamed polyethylene or foamed rubber. The second type is based on butyl rubber, inside which isolon is placed as a reinforcing frame.
All of the above types of sound insulation are produced in sheets, however, with different sizes and thicknesses. Each consumer decides for himself which sound insulation is better to choose. That is, it can be made in two layers of vibration and sound absorbers, or in one layer with dual properties, that is, both vibration and sound absorption.
The sheet form itself creates certain conveniences when soundproofing a car with your own hands. This is especially true of the salon. Here you can carry out the process, completely covering the surfaces of the cabin, or partially. At the same time, the sheets themselves are easily cut.
How to make soundproofing with your own hands
Making (gluing) soundproofing with your own hands is easy. The main thing is to follow the instructions exactly. But what I would like to say at the beginning of this section is that you should not save on this process. The quality of sound insulation is the key to a quality process, on which the comfort inside the cabin depends.
Before proceeding with its implementation, it is necessary to decide what kind of sound insulation will be carried out: full or partial. It is most difficult to make a complete one, because this includes the soundproofing of the hood, trunk, arches and interior (doors, ceiling, floor, dashboard). That is, the amount of work performed is quite large. Partial insulation is the finishing of one or more of the elements described above.
An example of how to soundproof the interior ceiling
It should be noted that the ceiling of the car interior is the only element that is not subjected to standard vibration and noise insulation. Therefore, God himself ordered to make (glue) it with his own hands.
The ceiling is a smooth non-ribbed surface on which a sheathing frame is installed in the form of wires curved upwards. Their ends are inserted into special pockets, where they are fixed with plastic caps. And this design must be glued with sound insulation. The only thing you need to pay attention to is the insulation, which is installed under the skin. In domestic cars, a synthetic winterizer is used, in foreign cars, felt. Felt is definitely better. Both options have nothing to do with soundproofing material.
Here is the algorithm of actions:
- The casing is dismantled.
- The heater is removed.
- The surface is cleaned from adhesive residue.
- The surface is degreased (you can use white spirit).
- You can glue the first anti-vibration layer.
- Over the second noise-absorbing layer.
- The cladding is installed.
How to glue two soundproofing? What are the nuances in this process? As for vibration dampers, these sheets can immediately glue the entire ceiling surface (100%) or its main part (80% no less). The remaining free areas are sealed with strips. Here it is important to overlap the laying.
The second soundproofing layer will perform its tasks better if you purchase a thicker product. In this case, it is recommended to pay special attention to the perimeter of the ceiling, as well as stiffeners and fixtures.
Both sound insulators are easy to glue. It is necessary to remove the protective film, attach the material to the ceiling and roll it with a roller. Since the area to be insulated is large enough, it is better to glue the sound insulation together.
Vibrations occur in the interior and body structures, at the points of contact between metal and plastic parts of the dashboard, trim, door cards. Penetrate into the cabin and noise from tire friction, the noise of a running engine and others. It is understood that fatigue in a car with a high noise level is also high. The passenger can still deal with this, and driver fatigue primarily affects the safety of the trip. You can eliminate noise irritants with your own hands by additionally soundproofing the car.
Do-it-yourself car noise isolation video consists of two complementary parts - sound insulation, which blocks high-frequency noise and vibration isolation, which dampens low-frequency noise.
In addition, check for yourself whether you will completely isolate the car or partial sound insulation will be enough - both the amount of work and the money spent depend on this.
What is needed for complete soundproofing of a car?
Vibration isolation is carried out using the "vibroplast" material, which has good elasticity and is used in places of increased vibration, laying it in the first layer.
Soundproofing can be done using splen or bitoplast materials, and the thicker the material, the better.
Armed with a tape measure, measure the entire area to be isolated and, with the results of your calculations, go shopping. The best result, on average, is achieved when using three sheets of bitoplast and three sheets of vibroplast on the two front doors.
Of the necessary tools, in addition to the standard repair kit, you will need a knife and good scissors, a ruler, a roller for rolling out sound insulation, and a building hair dryer.
Preparing the car interior for soundproofing
Work should begin by de-energizing the car. To do this, remove the "positive" terminal from the battery contact. After that, it is necessary to dismantle the chairs and the floor covering. If you are going to make good insulation, remove the upholstery from the ceiling as well. Many are limited to door insulation, although this is less than 50% of full-quality sound insulation. Please note that for a quieter closing of the locks, it is necessary either to modify them or separately paste them with soundproofing.
For absolute soundproofing, it is necessary to remove both the instrument panel and the air ducts, but not everyone goes for it. Although sometimes it’s impossible to remove the floor covering without dismantling the dashboard.
An obligatory stage of preparatory work is the elimination of dust and degreasing of surfaces for laying the soundproofing layer.
Do-it-yourself car soundproofing video
The vibration isolation layer is laid first. In places with a complex configuration (trunk lid and hood, under the instrument panel, wheel arches), parts cut out according to patterns made in advance from paper are laid. As an option, you can pre-roll a layer of material to the surface without removing the protection from the adhesive layer, so the marking will be more accurate. First, difficult places are pasted over, and whole pieces are laid on top. The ceiling of the cabin and the floor are covered with solid sheets, from one edge to the other.
For better insulation of doors, it is worth pasting over both the outer surface of the door (of course, from the inside) and the inside. Use thinner sheets so that the door card fits snugly. Do not be zealous in the amount of sound insulation - if there is a lot of material, this will affect the weight of the door, and, consequently, the wear of the canopies.
All parts of the vibration isolation are tightly rolled with a roller for the best fit to the metal surface in order to give it additional rigidity and eliminate the string effect.
The soundproofing layer is glued on top of the vibration-insulating layer by the same method, using a rolling roller. Fix the joints of the material with high-quality adhesive tape.
At the end of the work, you need to install the parts of the door trim, interior and trunk in place, carefully making sure not to leave anything "extra". We hope that do-it-yourself car soundproofing video will be of good help to you.
The air temperature in the room where you are going to carry out work should not be less than +20 degrees Celsius.
About 12 hours after completion of work, do not use the car and do not even start the engine - ensure maximum adhesion of the soundproofing layer to the surfaces of the car.
» How to make a car soundproofing with your own hands - video
Noise isolation of a car is an integral part of comfortable driving, by installing it with our own hands we save a considerable part of the financial budget, in specialized workshops such work is quite expensive, in this article I will try to tell you how we achieve silence in the cabin of your car.
Many car owners, sitting behind the wheel of their car, habitually inserting the key into the ignition, start the car, while making the sound of the radio or player louder. They talk while driving with satellites in raised tones. What's the matter? Maybe they are used to behaving like this, or is it in the car?
Unfortunately, it is in the car, or rather its soundproofing, that all the troubles. Even with the windows closed with a set speed in the cabin, the hum of the engine and the rustle of rubber are heard, which annoy the owners.
Is it possible to make a car soundproofing with your own hands? We will talk about this and find out how to reduce extraneous noise coming from the outside, which is necessary for this. What material to use in the work.
Why is the car noisy, what are the reasons?
All vehicles are subject to wear and tear. Noise isolation, even on elite cars, eventually loses some of its protective properties, not to mention cars that have passed a certain mileage on domestic roads.
Vibration is the real problem with soundproofing. Experienced drivers can determine where the unpleasant sound comes from, where the crickets appeared. They will tell you what the problem is. Perhaps some part has failed. Many car owners, out of inexperience, immediately turn to a service station for help. As a result, the driver's wallet "loses weight". Money is paid for the technical inspection of the car, which is not necessary.
You can solve the problem of losing the protective properties of sound insulation or install it on a car with your own hands and strength. This requires certain equipment, desire and noise-isolating materials.
Materials for isolating external noise sources
Material, absorbing noise consists of three parts.
- vibration isolation,
- soundproofing,
- Antiskrip.
Let's take a closer look at the material for soundproofing a car.
- Vibration isolation.
The first layer of products designed to suppress noise serves as a protection against vibration, more precisely aimed at its suppression. Vibration is sound. The driver and passengers begin to hear a rumble in the car when the oscillation frequency reaches 20 Hz.
Vibration isolation, as a material, is a bituminous layer. It can be of various density and thickness. It "wraps" the metal, preventing the vibration of the latter. Vibroplast aimed at creating silence.
- Noise isolation.
This is a soft material that absorbs external noise. It usually has a layer of foil that serves as a thermos. Speaking of sound insulation, the porosity of the material can be noted. Drivers living in areas with low t 0 feel the greatest effect from it.
- Antiskrip.
Actually, this is a fabric that is glued along the ends and joints of the car elements. It is mainly used for the layout of plastic and car body. On a rough road, the body of the car "plays". Self-adhesive fabric prevents metal contact at the joints. Serves as a lining.
Technological work steps
In one fell swoop, the situation of protecting the car from noise cannot be resolved. Therefore, it is necessary to divide the whole process into several stages. Install sound insulation on each body element separately. The greatest effect of vibration absorption can be achieved by approaching the problem in a complex manner. We are talking about the processing of the following segments of motor vehicles:
- Noise insulation of the car hood;
- Soundproofing of all doors;
- Noise isolation of the partition separating the passenger compartment and the engine compartment;
- Soundproofing floor and interior and luggage compartment;
- Noise isolation of the upper part of the body - the roof.
Now let's look at the specifics of material finishing for each segment of the car.
Noise isolation for a car: hood protection.
Covering the inner part of the hood with material does not present any difficulties. It (the hood) is made with notches where soundproofing sheets need to be glued. There is an erroneous opinion among amateurs in this matter, who consider the protection of the hood a waste of time and money.
They believe that it is enough to make (strengthen) the “redoubt” separating the engine compartment and the interior. The error is as follows. The hood cover itself is the sound resonator. With a set of speed, directed waves go from it to the windshield.
Windshield A The car cannot be isolated from noise, unfortunately. So, the hood, reinforced with sound insulation, does not allow noise to penetrate through the windshield. You can make protection for the trunk lid using the technology of laying material in the engine compartment.
- Labor-intensive door processing?
Let's try to figure it out. If the soundproofing of the hood can be done without much effort, then the doors will have to tinker. The workflow begins with the dismantling of the casing and all attachments: handles, buttons.
Next, the doors must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt using rags. Then degrease the work surface using white spirit or liquids containing acetone. We make a pattern from a dense material and glue it on the inside of the door. Using a construction knife, a workpiece is cut out of the noise-insulating material according to the pattern and the protective film is removed.
Glue the blank to the inside of the door. In order for the material to fit tightly on the working surface of the door, it is preheated using an industrial hair dryer. Technological openings are closed with foil material.
It is necessary to monitor the connections of the individual insulating pieces. The distance between them (overlapping) should not exceed 50 mm. Separate pieces are also preheated with a hairdryer. This process is repeated for each door.
Dodo-it-yourself wheel arch soundproofing
We will immediately answer a possible question why it is necessary to cover the wheel arches with insulating material. At the beginning of the publication, we talked about the fact that drivers are annoyed by the noise of rustling rubber. To get rid of or at least reduce the penetration of monotonous rustling into the cabin, it is necessary to perform soundproofing.
Work related to the installation of sound insulation on the car body begins with preparation.
Filmed:
- wheel arch liners
- bumper
- anthers
Second phase:
- cleaning work surfaces from dirt and dust
- thoroughly wash, wipe and degrease using solvents or white spirit
- In work we use metal brushes and rags.
After that, we are engaged in the manufacture of patterns. You can use the so-called "liquid wheel arch liners". They are made on the basis of rubber-bitumen mastics. In this case, there is no need to cut the patterns.
Do-it-yourself spraying of mastic on the surface to be treated is necessary several times. After applying one layer, it takes time to set. Then the second layer is applied. Only first you need to close the nearby parts of the car from its ingress.
Noise isolation of car interior
These are the largest works. The process is laborious, in which a large role is given to the dismantling and installation of interior equipment. It will not be easy to remove with your own hands and put in place all the devices and plastic parts that are in the cabin. Moreover, dismantling and installation is carried out in an uncomfortable position of the body.
The most difficult part is the work of removing the duct. Having reached the base of the partition, it is unforgettable to clean the metal and degrease it. The first protective layer is a vibration dampening sheet. It is heated for ease of use with a building hair dryer. Then a sound-absorbing material is applied. It has a dual purpose.
- It dampens external noise through absorption.
- Is a heater of inside of the car.
Floor soundproofing work.
Remove the seats first. For ease of disassembly do it yourself We start from the back row. Next, remove the trim. Having reached the metal, it is necessary to process: clean it from rust, dirt and degrease. Then a vibration isolator is laid on the prepared surface.
Using an industrial hair dryer, we heat the material for ease of installation and tap the bumps for a snug fit with a wooden or rubber mallet. Having coped with the laying of the vibration isolator, we glue the second layer - the soundproofing sheet. Since it is thinner than the first protective material then exactly repeats all the bends of the vibration isolator. Therefore, the first layer must be carefully laid, repeating all the unevenness of the floor.
Do-it-yourself car soundproofing: scar ceiling protection
As in the objects mentioned earlier, the preparatory process begins with the dismantling of the ceiling lining. We clean the surface from dirt and dust. We carefully process the ceiling with white spirit or solvent. If the car was equipped with protection, it should be removed.
When laying the protective layer with your own hands, it is enough to lay the foil material only on flat surfaces. It would be enough. Laying should start from the middle of the roof, gradually moving to its edges. To smooth the protective layer, you can use a special knurling.
Having finished laying the foil material, we proceed to gluing the sound-absorbing protection. Having finished the work on soundproofing the roof, we proceed to the installation of the ceiling sheathing.
What to pay attention to when performing soundproofing installation work
To increase the efficiency of laying sound insulation with your own hands, you need to use little tricks.
- The basis of quality is preparation. Pay special attention to cleaning the work surface and degreasing it.
- When laying the bitoplast and vibroplast, be sure to use an industrial hair dryer to heat the material. This will help to carefully lay the protective layer of sound insulation. In addition, the workflow will go faster.
- For the efficiency of laying the ceiling and doorways, use pieces of vibroplast cut into small strips, laying them crosswise.
- Vibroplast is a heavy material, so you should not “sculpt” it in large quantities, making the car heavier.
- When protecting doors, it is recommended to use vibroplast in the form of rolls. Splenium is laid on it in the form of small pieces.
There are places in the car where it is not recommended to install noise insulation. These are recesses for a spare wheel and a working tool. No need to protect the bottom of the doors. The point is that this is where moisture accumulates. Perhaps the appearance of rust, which adversely affects the metal, reducing its service life.
Useful soundproofing video
conclusions
Processing with a special car material is an additional protection against the penetration of noise sources into the cabin. If you approach the process creatively and efficiently, you can improve the sound insulation in the car by 40-60%.
It takes patience and time. After all, the work will take several days. The costs will be justified by the silence in the car and the ease of driving.
Do soundproofing do-it-yourself is not difficult. Before starting work, you can see the procedure for laying protection on the Internet.
It may be difficult to do the work yourself, given the lack of experience. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out the laying of soundproofing material with an assistant.
Good luck with your work.
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Inexpensive cars are usually produced with poor or mediocre sound insulation. Therefore, many motorists solve the problem on their own - either install the Shumka on the car with their own hands, or give the car to a car service.
The cost of soundproofing work in a car service is quite high - from 20,000 rubles, but this amount cannot be called too high - you need to disassemble the entire interior, but the result, no doubt, will bring a lot of pleasure to the owner of the car.
Many car owners, having decided to make a soundproofing of a car with their own hands from the first materials at hand, as a rule, remain disappointed with the results of their work.
What materials are required for soundproofing a car with our own hands, we will consider in this article.
Noise-insulating materials are divided into two groups - vibration-absorbing and sound-absorbing. To achieve a good result, both types of coatings must be used.
Vibration-absorbing coatings
Soundproofing "Vibroplast"
Vibration-absorbing coatings are attached directly to body parts.
Vibration absorbers are attached directly to its parts. Their purpose is to dampen the vibration that occurs as a result of the operation of the car's mechanisms, as well as caused by small irregularities in the road surface when driving.
Such coatings include the Vibroplast soundproofing, made of a polymer composition and having a foil coating. This material is available in thicknesses of 1.5 mm (M1) or 2.3 mm (M2). Its more expensive variants (Silver and Gold) with the same thickness have better vibration-absorbing properties.
Self-adhesive vibration isolation "Bimast" has a bitumen base. It is made with paper, fabric and aluminum coatings.
The basis of the composition of vibration-absorbing coatings is most often bitumen or mastic with similar characteristics.
Most modern cars leave the assembly line already with large-area vibration-absorbing coatings applied to parts.
Sound absorbing materials
Noise isolation "Vibroton"
Sound-absorbing materials are mounted on top of vibration isolation and serve to absorb noise.
Such coatings are mounted on top of vibration isolation and serve to absorb noise from outside the car. They also have a self-adhesive layer, such as, for example, Splen soundproofing or similar Vibroton and Barrier. Noise isolation "Bitoplast" is popularly known as "anti-creak" - it is used as a cushioning material to eliminate squeaks between the plastic parts of the cabin.
Sound absorption by these materials is possible due to their porous structure. They are most often made of foamed polyethylene or polyurethane foam and, like vibration-absorbing coatings, have different thicknesses.
The use of such materials without first pasting parts with vibration-absorbing coatings will not give a good result, as well as soundproofing cars with building materials.
What is the best soundproofing
Noise isolation "Splen"
The most effective way to reduce noise is to apply liquid soundproofing to car parts.
Often, car owners, having spent a lot of time and money on gluing a car with soundproofing with their own hands, remain dissatisfied with the result, even if they are not stingy and use the “Shumka” of maximum thickness.
This usually happens from a misunderstanding of what causes the greatest noise in the car. The largest percentage of noise is due to the vibration of body parts due to their small thickness and their excellent sound conductivity.
In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to give the parts rigidity. Only vibration-absorbing coatings can provide this. Tightly glued to the part, they seem to increase its thickness, forming a single whole with it. The resulting vibrations are damped by the part itself and do not spread throughout the body.
Therefore, one of the most effective options for reducing noise is on auto parts. Aerosol cans with such compositions are especially convenient in use - their application becomes possible in hard-to-reach places, which provides the largest coverage area.
The application of a liquid insulating coating is allowed from the outside, which makes the “shumka”, for example, car arches, as effective as possible. The disadvantages of this material include a long drying time - sometimes up to two weeks.
Pasting the hood with porous sound insulation will rather play a heat-insulating role, which is quite justified - temperature drops will not be so sharp and frequent, which will favorably affect the resistance of the part to corrosion.
How to glue "Shumka" in the car
Calculation of material for soundproofing a car
Considering the considerable price of materials for high-quality soundproofing of a car (for example, the Shumoff company), first of all, you need to calculate the required quantity.
In order to have an idea of the consumption of materials (in square meters), you can use the table:
| Car class | Bottom | Trunk | Doors (4 pcs) | Roof | Hood |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A and B | V-3 ZV-3 | V-2 ZV-2 | V-2.4 ZV-1.5 P-1.5 | V-3 ZV-3 | ZV-2 |
| WITH | V-4 ZV-4 | V-2.8 ZV-2.8 | V-2.4 ZV-1.5 P-1.5 | V-4 ZV-4 | ZV-2 |
| D, E and Crossovers | V-4 ZV-4 | V-3 ZV-3 | V-2.4 ZV-1.5 P-1.5 | V-4 ZV-4 | ZV-2 |
"B" - vibration-absorbing materials;
"ZV" - soundproof coatings;
"P" - gasket materials.
car floor soundproofing
car floor soundproofing
Before starting work on soundproofing the car, a complete disassembly of the passenger compartment is necessary.
In order to achieve the maximum result, a complete disassembly of the interior will be required, that is, it will be necessary to remove the seats, the lining of the gearshift lever and the handbrake. It is also advisable to remove the instrument panel - for sizing the motor shield.
The most reasonable would be the pre-production of cardboard templates - with their help, the vibration-proof material is used most rationally.
Work should be carried out in a warm room - otherwise the material will not stick properly. It is also important to thoroughly clean and degrease the surfaces to be glued.
To tightly fit the coated parts, you will need to heat the material with a hairdryer and press it to the floor, smoothing it with a roller, spatula, in the most inaccessible places - with your hands.
The best result is achieved with a two-layer coating - first with vibration-absorbing, and then with soundproofing materials.
Door soundproofing
Noise insulation of doors, hood, arches and car trunk
If you glue the inner surfaces of the car only with porous materials, then the sound-absorbing effect will be negligible.
Doors, despite their small (compared to the floor) area, are the most difficult to paste over due to the inaccessibility of the surface. Therefore, the manufacture of templates in this case is a necessity - it is very inconvenient to adjust the material "in place".
If you glue the inner surfaces of the car only with porous materials, then the sound-absorbing effect will be negligible. Much more important is the application of vibration-damping coatings.
When pressing the material to the surface, be careful - the application of excessive force can cause deformation of the surface. The use of liquid soundproofing in this case will give the best result.
Pasting door skins from the inside will give practically nothing in terms of sound insulation. It is much more important to close the openings in the inner surfaces of the doors and paste over the lock rods, wire harnesses, and fix the electrical connector blocks with a thin gasket coating.
What gives the "Shumka" trunk
If you thoroughly insulate all surfaces - the wheel arches, the spare wheel well and the inner surfaces of the rear fenders, you will achieve a stunning effect. The trunk is a resonator, in which the noise during the movement of the car tends to increase due to the closed volume. Gluing the trunk with vibration isolation from the inside will prevent sound from resonating, which is usually shielded by parts.
Another positive effect of soundproofing the trunk and its lid is to improve the acoustic properties of the car, which lovers of good sound will appreciate.
An article about why you need car soundproofing and how to install it yourself. Important details of the process. At the end of the article - a video about soundproofing a car with your own hands.
The content of the article:
Buying a car is always an event, and a joyful event. But this joy can be overshadowed by some nuances that the car owner may not have had any idea about before buying the car.
For example, cars can have vibration to one degree or another, which is not good for health. What about extraneous noises during the journey? Agree that, once in a cozy car, you want complete comfort, including silence, to listen to your favorite music or just relax.
What is needed for this? Any self-respecting driver in the car should have high-quality sound insulation.
What is soundproofing for?
Unfortunately, such a pleasure is not installed by manufacturers on all car brands, but only on those that belong to business class cars. On inexpensive models, you will either not find sound insulation at all, or it will be of very poor quality.
Extraneous noise not only will not give you the opportunity to listen to music and talk calmly, but will also reduce attention and response speed, leading to rapid fatigue.
As a result, irritation will appear, which will lead to a harder driving style. A hard driving style is one of the reasons for serious troubles that can occur on the highway.
Installing soundproofing in the car is needed to perform the following tasks:
- for soundproofing the engine compartment;
- to dampen the noise that comes from the gearbox;
- to reduce road noise;
- to eliminate squeaks and other extraneous noises that can reproduce the plastic parts of the interior trim;
- for interior insulation.
And, we must pay tribute to the results of the work of designers, at the beginning of the operation of a new car, noise and squeaks may indeed be absent. But later, especially if you drive on bad roads, these noises will definitely appear.
They penetrate into the cabin, as a rule, through the floor, ceiling, doors and trunk. These noises meet various kinds of obstacles on their way and from this they weaken to some extent, and also transform into vibration, which is also perceived by the driver as noise. Therefore, the noise in the cabin can be divided into primary and secondary.
High-quality sound insulation successfully copes with these types of noise. To achieve the desired result, an integrated approach is required, involving the treatment of the entire machine with insulating agents.
In general, there are no trifles in a car - absolutely everything is important, including soundproofing. Therefore, if the manufacturer has not installed noise insulation on your car, you need to take care of it yourself. You can install it yourself, which will be discussed below.
Varieties of sound insulation
If you decide to install soundproofing on a car, you should first figure out where to place soundproofing materials. It turns out that each sector of the car corresponds to a separate material. Consider the main types of sound insulation:
- on the door;
- on the arches;
- on the floor in the cabin;
- on the ceiling;
- on the trunk;
- elimination of squeaks in the cabin.
Choosing material for soundproofing
In order to choose the right material for sound insulation, it is necessary to understand and know the varieties of these materials that have demonstrated their reliability and effectiveness to motorists, as they were developed specifically for this purpose:
- Visomat. Made from resin with foil as the top layer. It is advisable to use this material for large surfaces, such as: arches, floor, roof, trunk. This coating is very effective in combating sound vibrations, and also reduces the level of vibration. To glue the visomat, you must first clean and degrease the surface to be treated, and then heat the resin with a building hair dryer.
- Vibroplast. Universal coating made on the basis of foil. For installation, a hair dryer is not required, but if you use it, it will not be worse. Most often, vibroplast is used for doors, roofs and trunks.
- Splen. Porous coating with excellent soundproofing parameters. There is one minus: interacting with plastic surfaces, it can make a creak.
- Bitoplast. It is used to eliminate squeaks, as well as to fill gaps between different parts and sectors in the cabin. The material is somewhat reminiscent of foam rubber. Getting into cracks and gaps, it immediately takes their shape, reliably isolating the contacting surfaces. Widely used in all places of creaking in the car interior, as well as on parts made of plastic.
- Madeline. Special fabric coated with an adhesive layer. It is used to fill gaps between elements of different designs and for winding electrical wires.
What soundproofing is better
Of course, the final choice of sound insulation always remains with the driver. He himself decides this issue, based on the situation, tasks and personal financial capabilities. It is known that a professionally installed "Shumka" will solve this problem better, but, nevertheless, sound insulation can be installed with your own hands. The main thing is strict adherence to technology, as well as the desire and availability of free time.
Due to the fact that when installing sound insulation, the vehicle will have to be partially dismantled, you must first study the instructions for it so that there are no difficulties during dismantling.
It is rather difficult, or rather impossible, to say which sound insulation is the best. If you use for this purpose special materials made only for the car, then you will not be mistaken. These materials take into account all the nuances of future operation, such as temperature changes, humidity, vibration.
The price of sound insulation depends on the thickness of the material, as well as on its technical characteristics. And if you have not spared the money for such a necessary add-on for your car, it will fully pay off with comfortable silence in the cabin, as well as the absence of vibration and creaking.
In addition, due to insulation in winter, the cabin will be much warmer. And in the summer it will warm up more slowly from the sun's rays. However, if you want to make the interior perfectly insulated, you will have to apply several types of insulation, among which a foil layer must be present.
Making your own soundproofing
Self-installation of sound insulation consists of the following steps:
- complete disassembly of the cabin;
- gluing the desired surfaces with insulating materials;
- installation of materials to eliminate squeaks in the cabin;
- assembly of the interior and analysis of the quality of the work performed during the movement.
When dismantling the interior, be careful with fasteners, which can be easily lost or damaged. As a result of disassembly, the interior should be completely “naked”. After that, clean off dirt and degrease all metal surfaces, and only then start gluing with soundproofing material.
First of all, lay the material for vibration isolation. They need to glue about 80% of the entire area of the processed metal surfaces. Glue sound insulation on top of this material. However, this rule can not be observed if the material you purchased contains a combination of both of these properties. You should not save on defective or thin material, otherwise there will be no desired result, and all efforts will be in vain.
Attention: when working with foil insulation, use protective gloves, otherwise there may be cuts.
Properly installed soundproofing will save you from unnecessary sounds from the outside, but will not solve the problem associated with squeaks in the cabin. Therefore, as soon as you finish installing soundproofing, immediately start eliminating internal squeaks.
For these purposes, use the materials that we have already talked about. Lay these materials between the metal surface and the plastic parts of the cabin.
Assemble the cabin in reverse order.
Places of high attention
When carrying out work on the installation of sound insulation, it is necessary to pay special attention to individual areas:
- Doors. Noise isolation of car doors must be carried out without fail, because the main amount of noise penetrates through them. This is due to the large area of the doors, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, to the small number of stiffeners inside each door. High-quality door processing has a huge effect in the form of a noticeable increase in acoustic comfort in the cabin.
- Hood. If you do not treat this area with soundproofing material, then there will not be the desired result either, especially for cars with a diesel engine. Like the doors, the hood has a large area, which contributes to large vibration loads.
- Trunk. Noise from the rear arches passes through it, so the soundproofing of the trunk is a must.
- Roof. When driving at high speed, the roof provokes a lot of noise and vibration. By insulating the roof, you will get rid of the unpleasant rumble in the cabin.
- Floor. This zone also cannot be bypassed, because it has direct contact with the wheel arches and parts of the suspension, from which noise and vibration come. To achieve a greater effect, try to use the most thickened layer of insulation for the floor.
- wheel arches. These parts themselves are not sources of noise and vibration, but they very well transmit both noise and vibration from other mechanisms to the cabin. Therefore, soundproofing arches is necessary.
Video about soundproofing a car with your own hands:
