All sensors. The main malfunctions of engine sensors Determination of a faulty engine sensor VAZ 2115

20.05.2014

The first injector 14s appeared in 2000-2001. After their appearance, and indeed injection machines, everyone was actively engaged in restructuring into a carburetor system, saying that “the carburetor is more reliable”, and the specialists in injectors could be counted on the fingers.

Now this situation is observed with the conversion of the electronic gas pedal into a cable one.

But it is worth noting that some experts have already learned how to tune and flash e-gas, roll back a turbo engine, compressor, not to mention the evil shafts.

As for the sensors - they all serve to build the operation of the engine.

Engine management system

In general, the entire engine management system consists of two components:

• Brain.
• Sensors.

Brains take readings of the current state from the sensors, analyze and control the operation of the engine using the same sensors.

Now let's talk about the sensors themselves, which are involved in the operation of the engine:

1. Crankshaft position sensor (dpkv) - serves to synchronize the operation of the engine with the operation of the computer, works on the principle of induction. In the event of a malfunction, the car does not start well, does not pull, ... More details in the corresponding one.
2. Camshaft position sensor (dprv) - often called the "Phase Sensor". Used to define phased injection. It is possible to work with a faulty sensor. More.
3. Throttle position sensor (TPS), well, or gas pedal position sensor (if the gas pedal is electronic, it has been installed since 2011). As for the dpdz, it is paired with the IAC. TPS determines the degree of opening of the throttle assembly. If this sensor is faulty, then there is no reaction to the gas pedal, the speed spontaneously increases, etc. More details in the corresponding.
4. Knock sensor (DD) - the name speaks for itself. The knock sensor detects engine vibrations (detonation) according to this ahead of the ignition angle. Details in the corresponding .
5. The coolant temperature sensor (Dtozh) - in other words, the engine temperature sensor. Mounted on a thermostat, designed to control the temperature regime of the engine. For more information on how to replace, check -.
6. The mass air flow sensor (MAF) is the most expensive sensor, so its failure is extremely unpleasant. With this sensor, the ecu reads the amount of air consumed. The main malfunctions are the lack of traction in the motor, problems with idling. On this site, good informative articles are devoted to this sensor, you can read it.
7. Speed ​​sensor (DS) - the speed sensor is primarily designed to measure the speed of the car and it is located on the gearbox. But it also has other functions - about this.
8. An oxygen concentration sensor, or simply an oxygen sensor (dc) - determines the amount of oxygen in the exhaust system, regulates the mixture of fuel and air. Euro-2 has 1 sensor, Euro-3 has two sensors. Very often, after 60 thousand km. run the second sensor is disabled programmatically. with our gasoline, it quickly fails. However, it can be repaired and replaced. Also, DC is the cause of many problems, about this.
9. Idle speed controller (IAC) (until 2011) or electric throttle (since 2011) - this sensor is responsible for stable idling. It lets air into the engine at idle, bypassing the TPS. Quite a capricious sensor, we often replace it. The main problem is unstable idling. Often comes across a marriage. About it .
10. Electric throttle - () - the bottom line is that this is an electronic throttle, which is opened not by the gas pedal cable (mechanically), but by brains (electronically).
11. Accelerator pedal position sensor - (E-gas) - the sensor provides readings of the position of the gas pedal to the ecu, which in turn opens the electronic throttle.

As you can see, in general, the number of sensors is not large, but believe me, many of them caused a lot of problems for car owners, so carefully study and use this material.

The injection power unit, which is installed on the VAZ 2115, has an electronic control unit. In order to regulate the functioning of the engine, the electronics constantly monitors the changes that accompany its operation. For this, sensors are used. More on this later in the article.

The VAZ 2115 sensor panel includes the following devices:

• Speedometer. Shows the driver the current speed of the vehicle. The speedometer receives information about the speed of the car thanks to the sensor, which is located on the checkpoint.
• Tachometer. Located to the left of the speedometer. It is an electronic device that receives signals from the BC and reflects the current crankshaft speed.
• Fuel gauge. It is located to the right of the speedometer. Shows the amount of fuel in the tank.
• Coolant level indicator. Reports the coolant temperature. The pointer is located to the left of the tachometer. Information comes from the corresponding sensor.

Scheme of sensors VAZ 2115

The sensors on the VAZ 2115 are located as follows:

1. Phase sensor.
2. coolant temperature sensor.
3. Knock sensor.
4. Oil pressure sensor.
5. Oxygen sensor.
6. crankshaft position sensor.
7. Speed ​​sensor.
8. idle sensor.
9. DMRV.
10. Fuel level sensor.
11. Gasoline level sensor.
12. Antifreeze level sensor.
13. Throttle position sensor.

Temperature sensor VAZ 2115

DTOZH is distinguished by its simplicity of design and durability. Its only task is to monitor changes in coolant temperature. The electronic unit uses the information received from the sensor to regulate the crankshaft speed and the ratio of the mixture of air and fuel, as well as to select the ignition timing.

Idling sensor VAZ 2115

The idle speed sensor is not only a device for reading indicators, but also a regulating device that directly affects the operation of the engine at idle.

This unit has an electric drive, as well as a conical needle that goes inside the throttle pipe. Under idle conditions, the DXX changes the position of the needle, closing or opening the nozzle, which regulates the amount of air that is supplied to the throttle assembly.

Speed ​​sensor VAZ 2115

Information about the current speed of the car speed sensor transmits by pulse signals. Depending on the frequency of these signals, the electronic unit determines the speed of the vehicle.

The information obtained is used to adjust the idle speed of the engine. If the speed sensor breaks down, fuel consumption at idle increases significantly, the speedometer does not work and engine thrust drops.

speed sensor connector

Oil sensor VAZ 2115

The oil pressure sensor is designed to inform the motorist about breakdowns in the oil system. More precisely, it fixes that the pressure has dropped in the system, informing the car owner about this through the emergency pressure lamp, which is located in the cabin on the instrument panel.

Crankshaft sensor VAZ 2115

DKPV is a device that supplies information about the position of the crankshaft to the electronic unit. The correct functioning of the injectors of the injection motor, the ignition system and the fuel mixture supply system depends on the operation of this unit.

This device is often called a synchronization sensor, since, based on the data received from the DCPV, the electronic unit determines the moment of fuel injection into the cylinders of the power unit. If this sensor breaks down, incorrect information will be sent to the “brains” of the car and the power unit will lose its performance, since failures will occur in the fuel supply system, and the nozzles will not be able to function correctly. The DKPV is located near the camshaft, near the alternator belt.

Air sensor VAZ 2115

Thanks to the information received from the DMRV, the electronic unit regulates the optimal ratio of gas and gasoline in the fuel mixture that is supplied to the engine injectors. If the device does not work correctly, the combustible mixture will not meet the requirements of the current mode of operation of the engine, which entails a decrease in power and deterioration in dynamics, as well as increased fuel consumption.

Fuel sensor VAZ 2115

The fuel level sensor is designed to monitor the fuel level in the vehicle tank. If, when starting the engine, the FLS indicates that the tank is empty, and after the start of the ride, the readings change, it is necessary to replace the sensor. FLS replacement is also needed if the device does not respond when you refuel (shows an empty tank).

Knock sensor VAZ 2115

A properly functioning knock sensor is the key to the normal functioning of the VAZ engine. If it breaks, the engine will triple, and fuel consumption will increase. The knock sensor responds to the vibrations of the power unit, information about which is transmitted to the electronic unit, which allows the ECU to select the correct ignition timing. The device is mounted on the cylinder block near the fan.

Oxygen sensor VAZ 2115

The lambda probe, also known as an oxygen sensor, transmits information to the computer about the amount of oxygen content in the exhaust gases. It is located in the intake manifold of the exhaust pipe, near the resonator.

Fan sensor VAZ 2115

This sensor is located in the heater core. Inside it is a special contact group. When the coolant in the radiator heats up, this group also heats up and expands. And when this expansion reaches the required limit, the contacts close, the signal is transmitted to the wiring and the fan turns on.

Phase sensor VAZ 2115

Phase sensor plug

The phase sensor transmits to the electronic unit information about the current engine operation cycle: which valve is open and which valve timing is currently being implemented. Based on the received data, the electronic unit determines the fuel injection timing so that fuel is supplied just before the intake valve opens. The device is located on the engine, near the cylinder head, not far from the air filter.

Throttle valve sensor VAZ 2115

TPS is one of the key devices, the correct operation of which affects the functioning of the fuel system. This sensor transmits information to the “brains” of the car at what angle the throttle is currently located.

One of the main characteristics of TPS is the frequency of the signal. Based on signal frequency changes, the engine control unit determines the degree of pressure on the gas pedal, which allows the “brains” to select the most optimal engine cooling mode and the amount of fuel supplied.

Reverse sensor VAZ 2115

The only function of the reverse sensor is to turn on the rear white lights when the driver backs up. The signal that the sensor sends to white lights informs other road users that the driver is pulling back or has already started and is moving in reverse. And in the dark, for your convenience, these white lights illuminate the way back, informing others of your intentions.

It cannot be said that the VAZ 2114 is a very modern car filled with electronics. However, the list of used sensors that are associated with the electronic control unit, the fourteenth is quite impressive.

Each of these devices is responsible for certain functions, collects data transmitted to the car's main computer. So the ECU controls the entire process, makes appropriate changes, from which the driver himself does not have to look for the reasons for the failure or insufficiently efficient operation of one or another node.

Device list

Sensors are needed in order to report on the performance of systems, signal the level of cooling liquids, oils, and prevent or prevent emergencies.

These small devices, despite their size, play an incredible role in the performance of the machine. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to know which sensors are on your car.

We list the main ones that are present in the VAZ 2114 systems. We include sensors in this list:

oil pressure;

Coolant temperatures;

Coolant level in the expansion tank;

Mass air flow indicator;

Idling engine;

The level of brake fluid in the system;

Camshaft position (it is called a phase sensor);

Outside air temperatures;

Road irregularities.

This list is very, very extensive. But even on this, the owners of the VAZ 2114 do not want to stop, which is why they introduce several more different sensors into the system:

• Light devices;
• reverse;
• Device signaling open doors;
• Brake pad wear indicator, etc.

Where are they located?

But knowing about their presence in your car model VAZ 2114 is not enough. In the event of a malfunction, when the electronic control unit receives incorrect data from signaling devices, they have to be changed.

Whatever one may say, each sensor that has ceased to function properly, transmit correct data on the state of the systems to the electronic control unit, must be replaced. Almost all sensors cost no more than a few hundred rubles. But even the low cost and small size are not an indicator of the uselessness of these devices. Change devices in a timely manner.

To do this, you need to understand how to get to one or another sensor. Therefore, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the location of key signaling and measurement devices.

Sensor	Location
Oil pressure	On 8 valve motors, it is located at the bottom of the valve cover in the cylinder head, and on 16 valve motors, it is located on the left side of the end of the camshaft bearing housing
Coolant temperatures (engine temperature sensor)	Look for it near the tasty pipe of the cylinder head cooling jacket
Coolant level	It is located directly on the tank, inside which is coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze). Looks like a simple plastic cover that connects to an electrical connector
brake fluid level	This is a float device located inside the brake fluid reservoir.
Idling (IAC)	Look near the throttle valve on the throttle assembly
mass air flow	You will find it near the large inlet pipe, directly on the air filter housing.
Throttle positions	Located on the body of the drossuzla
Crankshaft position (timing sensor)	Its location is near the generator drive pulley.
Camshaft positions (phase sensor)	Near the cylinder head cover, when viewed from the side of the air filter
Oxygen (lambda probe)	Installed in front of the resonator in the intake manifold of the exhaust system
Detonations	Located between 2 and 3 cylinders near the fan
fuel level	It should be looked for inside the intake chamber of the fuel tank
Speeds	Located directly on the gearbox
Road bumps	Look near the cup on the side of the right mudguard. You can get through the engine compartment
Ambient temperatures	It is installed right behind the front bumper, exactly in the middle.

Each sensor has its strictly designated place. Having studied the areas of their location, you can easily replace devices in case of breakdowns or malfunctions.

Some measuring and signaling devices are located literally on the surface, so there is no need to carry out additional dismantling work. To get to others, you will have to seriously dig into your VAZ 2114, remove no small part of the details.

The integrity of your car, the safety of the driver, passengers and all other road users depend on their performance. Therefore, treat the sensors with appropriate respect, monitor their condition and change them in time if necessary.

The road is the road and any emergency or minor breakdown can be resolved on the spot if you know where the VAZ 2115 sensors are installed, their purpose, malfunctions and verification methods. The first VAZ injection engine appeared just on the Samara 2 family. For several years, the car wore out a nine carburetor engine, and since 2001, the entire line of the second Samaras was equipped with eight- and sixteen-valve injection engines.

Features of injection electronics

Despite the fact that the engine of the second Samara does not differ in particular complexity, it is sometimes difficult to figure it out, find out the symptoms and causes of incorrect operation. Especially when only a tester and a set of keys are at hand. But everything is possible. Therefore, to troubleshoot the electronics of the 2115th, you first need to schematically understand the principle of operation of the engine control system.

Unlike carburetor engines, absolutely all processes for monitoring and adjusting engine systems are at the mercy of electronics. The main element of the control system is the electronic engine control unit. It collects data on the status of each sensor, draws conclusions about the mode of operation of the engine in real time and regulates the amount of fuel and air supplied to the combustion chamber, the ignition timing, and even controls the level of emissions of harmful substances in the exhaust.

For the entire time of production, and this is almost from 1997 to 2012, the car has changed several engines and several electronic control units - January, Bosch, Itelma. Nevertheless, the set of sensors on the VAZ 2115 remained stable, and it is they who are often to blame for many sudden malfunctions with a variety of symptoms.

The only exception is the outdoor temperature sensor, so we will leave it alone. Only the most important of them are on the agenda.

idle speed controller

As in engines with a carburetor, the injection engine keeps idle with the throttle fully closed. This is possible only under one condition - if the design of the throttle provides for a bypass channel, and it must have a variable capacity. To do this, a cone valve was installed in the bypass air channel of the throttle body, which regulates the air supply with the throttle closed, and called it IAC, idle speed controller. It consists of a cone valve, a stem and a stepper motor. Depending on which winding the pulse is applied to, the motor rotates in one direction or the other, thereby changing the throughput of the bypass air channel. Idles either rise or fall as a result of the movement of the cone valve. The idle speed sensor on the VAZ 2115 has a catalog number 1148300 02.

Video about the idle speed controller VAZ 2115 - symptoms of a malfunction and replacement.

Symptoms

Lack of idling, floating idle, idling does not increase on a cold engine.

How to check

The most common breakdown of the IAC is a break in the windings of a stepper motor. To check the windings, a multimeter is required, turned on in the resistance measurement mode. The resistance rating between contacts A-B and C-D is within 45-80 ohms. Otherwise, the regulator needs to be replaced. There should be infinite resistance between pins A-D and B-C. This means that the windings do not close to each other. If there is resistance at these contacts, the sensor is changed. Rated supply voltage - from 7.4 to 14.1 V.

Synchronization sensor

A more common name is the crankshaft position sensor. An extremely important device in the control system. The fact is that this is the only sensor that synchronizes the operation of the injection system, the ignition system and the gas distribution mechanism, as well as many other peripheral systems. The control unit must clearly know in what position the crankshaft is located and, thanks to the DPKV, the main synchronization of electronics and hardware occurs. The device is installed opposite the driving pulley with 58 teeth. Each tooth corresponds to 6 degrees of rotation of the crankshaft, but two teeth are missing on the driving pulley. It is this pass that monitors the VAZ crankshaft sensor, at the moment the pass passes, it sends a pulse to the ECU, which in turn gives out a portion of fuel and instructs the ignition system to supply a spark.

Malfunction symptoms

It is quite difficult to trace the malfunction of this sensor by symptoms, since all of them may indicate a breakdown of a variety of sensors and systems, but the main symptoms of a malfunction will lead to unstable operation of the motor or a complete failure to start. Sometimes knocking under load or a sudden drop in power can be observed.

How to check

The crankshaft position sensor is the only one responsible for synchronizing the operation of the injection system, the ignition system and the gas distribution mechanism

Checking the crankshaft position sensor is carried out by measuring the resistance and checking for the presence of a pulse. Resistance should be in the range of 570-740 ohms. It is checked between the contacts in the connector. The presence of a pulse can be checked elementarily - a multimeter is connected to the sensor terminals in the measurement mode of 200mV, and a metal object is passed near the core several times. The device should at this moment fix the power surge. If this does not happen, the sensor is changed.

The control clearance between the sensor core and the driving pulley is 1 mm. The catalog number is 2112-3847010-04.

Phase sensor

Responsible for adjusting fuel injection only in the cylinder that is in the compression stroke, that is, fuel is supplied through only one nozzle to one cylinder. It is oriented along the camshaft, so it is called the camshaft position sensor. It works on the Hall principle, giving out an electrical impulse when a magnetic field is excited. If the VAZ 2115 phase sensor fails, fuel is supplied according to the principle of carburetor engines - immediately into two cylinders. As a result, we get a set of faults.

Malfunction symptoms

The DPRV is located in the same place where the camshaft gear is located, on the block head. The main symptom of a malfunction is high fuel consumption and a drop in power. In addition, the computer generates error 0340 (sensor error) or 0343 (impulse too high).

Examination

A malfunction of the DPRV can be judged by the error code and the CE lamp on, but you can verify that it is working by checking the voltage at the power terminal A (12 V). The remaining terminals must not be energized.

Throttle sensor

Until 2011, all tags were equipped with such sensors; the last year of production, an electronic gas pedal could be installed on the car, which served as this device. The throttle position sensor (TPS) is needed to accurately fix the throttle opening angle and transfer this information to the engine control unit. The device is mounted on the throttle body and is a simple potentiometer with a resistive plate and a slider. By changing the resistance of the plate, we change the level of the pulse, and the ECU, based on the readings of the sensor, draws a conclusion about the amount of air entering the manifold. When the damper is closed, the ECU regulates idle speed using the idle speed controller.

Symptoms

With self-diagnosis without the use of special equipment, difficulties may arise, since most of the symptoms of a non-working device are also characteristic of other breakdowns, including loss of compression in individual cylinders. Basically, there are all signs of unstable operation of the motor, incorrect operation in transient conditions, idle floats, inadequate response to the movement of the gas pedal. However, checking the DZ position sensor is quite simple.

How to check

A working TPS is supplied with 5 V to the positive contact, the negative one goes to ground, and the third contact is used to supply a pulse to the control unit. It is on this output that you need to check the voltage. You need a multimeter in voltage measurement mode. With the throttle fully closed, the voltage should be 0.7V on a new high-quality sensor, on an old one - at least 0.3 V. As the damper opens, the potential grows smoothly and without jerks to 4 V. This is the maximum value with the damper open. An uneven voltage increase, a mismatch with the nominal value at the beginning and at the end of the test is a reason to replace the sensor. Contactless devices have been installed since 2011. They are twice as expensive, but practically did not fail.

Knock sensor

A simple but necessary scanner located on the cylinder block between cylinders 2 and 3. In fact, it is a piezoelectric element that responds to knocks in the crank mechanism, and knocking is a sign of detonation. As soon as the knock sensor detects a knock, it sends a pulse to the control unit, and it corrects the ignition timing towards a later one.

Malfunctions and symptoms

The first and main symptom is that the ECU does not respond to the detonation process: the valves clatter with an increasing load on the engine, metallic knocks are heard in the engine, the engine may triple, most often the Check Engine lights up.

How to check

The knock sensor is checked with a multimeter set to voltage test mode with a threshold of 200 mV. If the sensor has two leads, the multimeter probes are connected to both, if there is one, then the minus is installed on the case, plus on the lead. Now it is enough to apply a light gentle blow to the working surface of the device, while the arrow (or numbers) will show a power surge. The knock sensor is OK. If it does not respond to tapping, it must be replaced. By the way, the knock sensor can be replaced with a Volgovsky one, the same ones are put on UAZ.

Antifreeze temperature sensor

Serves to control the temperature regimes of the motor, measures the actual temperature of the antifreeze. The coolant temperature sensor is a simple thermistor, that is, an element that changes resistance synchronously with the temperature of the antifreeze. The thermistor works on a negative coefficient algorithm, the higher the temperature, the lower the resistance at the output.

Symptoms

Inaccurate work of the pointer on the tidy, the pointer does not work at all.

How to check

The coolant temperature sensor can be checked using a conventional tester, any device for measuring temperature up to 100-130 degrees, a container of water. The multimeter is switched to the resistance measurement mode, connected to the DTOZH terminals, the sensor itself is immersed in a vessel with water. The vessel is heated, while the nominal resistance at 5 degrees should be within 7280 Ohms, at 20 degrees the coolant temperature sensor should give out 3520 Ohms, 40 degrees corresponds to 1458 Ohms, and at the boiling temperature the readings should not be higher than 90-100 Ohms. If the readings of the device do not correspond to the nominal value, the VAZ 2115 temperature sensor is changed.

Air mass meter (DMRV)

One of the most expensive scanners, its failure is extremely unpleasant. It is installed in the air path immediately after the filter and evaluates the amount of air entering the manifold. Based on his readings, the ECU doses fuel, in idle mode it passes about 9 liters per hour, at 3 thousand revolutions - about 30 l / h.

Malfunctions and symptoms

This is one of the few sensors that cannot sharply cause obvious signs of a malfunction, but over time, high fuel consumption, a drop in traction at the bottom, dips at high speeds, and cold start problems may occur. The CE lamp may come on.

How to check

If there are suspicions about the correct operation of the DMRV, it is worth removing the terminal connector and starting the engine. If the idle speed rises above 1300 rpm, it is possible that the sensor needs to be replaced. This method is not accurate, so it's best to use a multimeter and take simple measurements. The device is set to a measurement threshold of 2 V, the positive probe is connected to the rightmost wire (most often yellow), the negative one to the green wire, through one contact from the positive one. Turn on the ignition, do not start the engine. The multimeter will show a minimum of 0.9 V, a maximum of 1.04 V. The last value is already critical, and if the measurements showed a higher voltage, the sensor is changed. An external inspection will also be useful: if there is an oil coating on the surface, the sensor is cleaned and the test is repeated.

oxygen sensor

Depending on the engine size, the VAZ 2115 may have one or two sensors. A lambda probe (aka an oxygen sensor) is installed in the exhaust pipe of the muffler (there are two of them in 1600 cc engines). The sensor is needed to assess the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases and regulate the proportions of air and fuel in the working mixture. For the device to work correctly, the ceramic working element must be heated to 345-360 degrees. Therefore, a heater is built into its body. The VAZ oxygen sensor sends a pulse to the computer in the range from 0.1 to 0.9 V. In the first case, the mixture is considered poor, in the second - rich.

Malfunction symptoms

The main signal indicating a faulty lambda probe will be an error message. Starting with error P0130 and ending with P0141 in order, we can conclude that the DC is malfunctioning. Errors P1102 and P1115 will indicate a malfunction of the heating element. In addition to the indications of the on-board computer about a breakdown, overestimated gas mileage can tell. In garage conditions, this sensor is not checked and, when errors are fixed, it must be replaced.

Speed ​​sensor

Speed ​​measurement on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles is carried out using electronics. The measurement circuit includes a speed sensor and a stepper motor in the speedometer. The DC is located at the top of the gearbox and is a conventional Hall sensor - the faster the sensor shaft rotates, the more the speedometer needle deviates. The catalog number for the six-pulse instrument is 2111-3843010.

Faults

The speedometer needle shows incorrect data, it may lie at zero when driving.

Health check

Checking the VAZ 2115 speed sensor is quite simple. Only a multimeter and a jack will come in handy. A multimeter is connected to the speedometer drive connectors, the front wheel is hung on the jack, the engine starts and the gear is engaged. When the sensor roller rotates, a potential should be generated in the range from 1 to 5 V. The increase in the potential value with an increase in the rotational speed should be smooth, without jerks and without delays. Otherwise, the DC is changed.

Oil pressure sensor

When the oil pressure drops, this is signaled by an emergency light on the tidy

The simplest device, which consists of a housing, a measuring membrane and terminals. The oil pressure sensor is installed in the cylinder block and is connected to the lubrication system. Pressurized oil acts on the measuring diaphragm, causing the output voltage to change. At a critical pressure value, the oil pressure sensor gives a minimum signal, while the ECU turns on the emergency lamp. This is a pretty serious signal, so you need to urgently check the condition of the engine.

Symptoms

The oil pressure warning light is on.

How to check

If the oil pressure sensor is faulty, then everything in the pressure system should be normal. This is checked with a manometer. The sensor is unscrewed, a pressure gauge is screwed in instead and the engine is started. The device should show 0.6-0.7 bar at idle. In this case, the sensor is changed.

No troubles with the motor can confuse even on the road, if you know the engine control system, VAZ 2115 sensors, their purpose and malfunctions well.

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Several faults that are often found on cars of the 2115 family.

Cooling system

If a malfunction occurs in the cooling system, we move off the road and stop the engine.

Open the hood and carefully inspect the engine compartment. If steam breaks out, we determine a specific place. We inspect the engine, check the expansion tank for the position of the coolant level. For one, we determine the state of the thermostat, radiator, rubber hoses in the engine cooling system.

It is impossible to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank immediately after stopping the engine. The fluid in the cooling system is under high pressure. When we unscrew the plug, the pressure drops sharply, and according to the laws of physics, the coolant boils. Naturally, its splashes can lead to burns to the hands and face. If there is an urgent need to unscrew the plug of the expansion tank on an engine that has not yet cooled down, throw some thick fabric on top and only then slowly unscrew the plug.

We will not be too lazy to look under the instrument panel of the VAZ-2115. Under it, streaks of coolant oozing from the heater or radiator tap may be found.

If coolant leaks are caused by a burst hose, it can be temporarily patched with adhesive tape (duct tape, adhesive tape).

Much more problems if the leak comes from the heater, radiator or thermostat. It's hard to get rid of it along the way. In this situation, it is recommended to add water to the cooling system and monitor the temperature readings during the trip. If necessary, the level in the cooling system will have to be periodically restored. Please note that if you use water instead of antifreeze for a long time, this will most likely provoke the formation of scale in the VAZ-2115 cooling system. As a result, cooling will deteriorate, and the motor resource will decrease. Therefore, after an emergency trip, be sure to fix the leak, drain the liquid diluted with water, flush the system and fill in fresh coolant. The most important condition is that it is forbidden to add cold water to an overheated engine! The motor must be cooled for at least half an hour with the hood open.

If the VAZ 2115 cooling system is faulty, and there is no coolant leak, we check the integrity of fuse No. 5 (at 20A). It performs the function of forced protection of the onboard power circuit in the electric fan of the cooling system. The fuse is located in the mounting block located in the engine compartment. If the electric motor starts working after replacing the fuse, the trip can be continued.

If the electric motor does not work after replacing the fuse, we will carry out additional diagnostics. We take two additional wires and supply power to the electric motor directly from the battery.

Please note that the wires must be insulated and securely fastened. Short circuits between wires are not allowed! Be sure to pay attention to the polarity of the connection: the electric motor must rotate in such a way that the fan blows air onto the engine through the radiator, and the directions of the incoming (travel) air flow and the air flow formed by the fan coincide.

If the electric motor starts working after these manipulations, then the wiring of the cooling system or the fan switch relay is faulty. The relay is located under the overlay on the right side of the VAZ 2115 dashboard console. If the engine is deaf, there may be a malfunction of the electric motor itself or the wiring. Unfortunately, neither the electric motor nor the relay can be repaired and will require replacement.

The engine can also overheat if the thermostat fails. This unit regulates the flow of fluid through the cooling system either bypassing the radiator (to speed up the warm-up of a cold engine), or through the radiator. Checking the thermostat is not difficult: on a warm engine, we feel the lower hose connecting the radiator and the engine. If the hose is cold, the thermostat is most likely defective, so no coolant is circulating through the radiator.

Brake system

Possible malfunctions of brake systems and ways to eliminate them
Cause of malfunction	Remedy
Increased brake pedal travel
Presence of air in the hydraulic drive system	Bleed the system
The thrust ring of the piston of the rear wheel cylinder has lost its elasticity and, under the action of the return spring of the brake pads, together with the piston, is displaced into the cylinder	Replace wheel cylinder assembly
Violation of the tightness of the brake system (liquid leak)	Determine the location of the fluid leak and replace the parts that affect the leak. In the event of leaks in pipeline connections, tighten connections or replace gaskets.
Increased clearance between the head of the vacuum booster adjusting bolt and the master cylinder piston	Cm.<Вакуумный усилитель>
The brake pedal slowly moves down with a constant effort on it and the parking brake is applied
Cuff damage 14 (see fig. 8.3)	Replace damaged cuff
The brake mechanisms of all wheels or axles are not completely released (high wheels turn hard)
Lack of clearance between the head of the vacuum booster adjusting bolt and the master cylinder piston	Cm.<Вакуумный усилитель>
Incomplete return of the brake pedal after braking due to incorrect installation of the brake light switch	Set the gap (8 + 1) mm (see Fig. 7.16) between the plastic tip of the brake light switch and the emphasis on the pedals
Clogging of the compensation holes of the main brake cylinder or overlapping of the compensation holes with the edges of the cuffs 14 (see Fig. 8.3)	Remove the reservoir of the main cylinder and connecting sleeves 3 (see Fig. 8.3). Clean the compensation holes with a soft wire with a diameter of 0.6 mm. If at the same time the wire rests against the cuff, then it is necessary to disassemble the main cylinder and replace the swollen cuffs 14
One brake mechanism does not release (the suspended wheel rotates tightly)
Jamming of the guide pins at the base of the front bracket	Replace or lubricate guide pins. Replace damaged finger covers (see<Замена направляющих пальцев>)
Piston jamming in the caliper housing	Remove the brake caliper housing from the base, remove dirt and corrosion from the surface of the housing cylinder and lubricate the working surfaces with NG-213 liquid or castor oil (see.<Ремонт тормозного механизма переднего колеса>)
Loss of elasticity of the sealing ring of the brake caliper housing	Remove the caliper housing from the base and replace the O-ring (see<Ремонт тормозного механизма переднего колеса>)
Jamming of shoes due to severe contamination of the guide groove of the base	Remove the pads and clean the guide groove and the ledges of the base from corrosion and dirt (see.<Замена колодок тормозных механизмов передних колес>)
Weak or broken return spring of the rear brake pads	Replace spring
Jamming of the rear brake pistons due to contamination or corrosion	Disassemble the wheel cylinder, clean the parts from dirt and corrosion, rinse, replace the mudguards
Swelling of the sealing rings of the pistons of the rear wheel cylinder	Change O-rings and brake fluid
Lack of clearance between the brake lining and the rear brake drum due to improper installation of the automatic adjustment stop ring	Dismantle the wheel cylinder, eliminate the misalignment of the thrust ring
Skidding or pulling the car to the side when braking
Inconsistent air pressure in tires	Adjust tire pressure to normal
Lubrication of friction linings in one of the brake mechanisms	Replace the pads or wash the pads with gasoline, followed by sanding with fine sandpaper and carefully removing abrasive dust from the pad
Seizures or deep scratches on the surface of the brake disc or drum	Repair or replace disc or brake drum assembly with hub
Leakage of brake fluid in one of the front brake mechanisms or wheel cylinders	fix the leak
The rear wheels are blocked before the front ones due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator or improper adjustment of its drive	Adjust or replace pressure regulator (see<Регулировка регулятора давления>)
Insufficient braking performance (increased effort on the brake pedal)
Worn or oily brake pads	Replace or clean brake pads
Incomplete fit of the pads to the drum in the rear brake mechanisms	Clean up the protruding places at the overlays. Replace pads if necessary
Vacuum hose leak	Restore the tightness of the connection
Filter 14 (see Fig. 8.2) of the vacuum brake booster is dirty	Rinse the filter or replace with a new one
Broken diaphragm 7 or 8 (see Fig. 8.2) vacuum brake booster	Replace diaphragm
Sealing cuffs 13 (see Fig. 8.2) of the vacuum brake booster do not provide tightness	Replace the seals and clean the cylindrical working surfaces of the valve body and connector
Violation of tightness in the connection of the cover 6 (see Fig. 8.2) with the housing 11 of the vacuum booster	Restore tightness
Violation of tightness in the connection of the vacuum booster with the main cylinder body	Replace O-ring 12 (see Fig. 8.2)
Failure of the vacuum booster as a result of the ingress of brake fluid into the cavity of the vacuum booster	Replace the master cylinder seals, remove the fluid from the amplifier and replace the diaphragm
Rattle in the brakes
Ovality or runout of the working surface of the brake drums of the rear wheels	Boring brake drum assembly with hub or replace with new ones
Broken disc brake pad springs	Replace brake pads (Ref.<Замена колодок тормозных механизмов передних колес>)
Wear of the guide pins of the brake mechanism of the front wheel	Replace guide pins (see
Wear on the holes for the guide pins in the base of the brake caliper	Replace base
It takes a lot of force on the parking brake handle to hold the car.
Jamming of ropes in guide shells	Disconnect the cables, clean them of dirt, lubricate the cables and their connections with grease<Лига>
Lubricating rear brake pads	Rinse pads or replace pads with pads
Parking brake incorrectly adjusted	<Регулировка привода стояночного тормоза>)
Large stroke of the parking brake lever handle
Large free play of the spreader link of the parking brake drive in the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels	Adjust the parking brake actuator (see<Регулировка привода стояночного тормоза)
Heating of brake drums when driving without braking
Incorrect adjustment of the parking brake expansion link	Adjust parking brake actuator
Reduced level of brake fluid in the reservoir of the main brake cylinder in the absence of external leakage in the hydraulic drive
Wear or swelling of the outer cuff 8 (see Fig. 8.3) of the main brake cylinder	Remove the main brake cylinder and replace the cuff. Drain the brake fluid from cover 6 (see Fig. 8.2) of the vacuum booster

Clutch

Possible clutch malfunctions, their causes and solutions:

Cause of malfunction

Remedy

Incomplete clutch disengagement (clutch "leads")
Insufficient full travel of the clutch pedal	Adjust clutch release actuator
Warping of the driven disk (end runout more than 0.5 mm)	Straighten or replace disc
Jamming of the hub of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft	Clean the slots, rinse with white spirit. If the splines are worn, replace the input shaft or driven disk
Skewed or warped pressure plate	Replace clutch cover complete with pressure plate and spring
Loose rivets or broken disc friction linings	Replace the pads, check the end runout of the disc
Clutch cable failure	Replace cable
Incomplete engagement of the clutch (clutch slips)
Increased wear or burning of the friction linings of the driven disk	Replace friction linings or driven disc assembly
Damaged or stuck clutch release actuator
Jerks during clutch operation
Lubrication of the friction linings of the driven disk, flywheel and pressure disk surfaces	Rinse oily surfaces thoroughly with white spirit, replace worn or damaged gearbox and engine oil seals. Check for oil leakage through the flywheel mounting bolts; in the presence of a leak, install the bolts on the sealant, as indicated in the "Engine Assembly" subsection
Seizure in the clutch release actuator	Eliminate the causes of jamming. Replace damaged parts
Surface damage or buckling of the pressure plate	Replace clutch cover assembly with pressure plate
Increased noise when engaging the clutch
Breakage of damper springs of a conducted disk	Replace driven disc assembly
Increased noise when disengaging the clutch
Wear, damage, lubricant leakage from the clutch release bearing	Replace bearing

ignition module

There are several typical signs that directly indicate problems with the ignition module:

1. Engine idle floats.

2. Periodically, the engine thrust disappears for no reason.

3. The car picks up engine speed very slowly during acceleration.

4. Cylinders stop working in pairs.

Note that the same signs indicate a malfunction of the BB type wires and the vehicle's ignition plugs, so at the beginning, you should check them, and if everything is in order with them, then replace the ignition module.

petrol pump

- car won't start

A possible cause may be a non-working, or semi-working fuel pump. The fuel pump must create a certain pressure in the fuel system for normal operation. But not only the fuel pump can serve as the cause of the malfunction, in any case, the first step is to measure the pressure in the fuel rail, check the spark and already draw the appropriate conclusions. More information can be found here.

- the fuel pump does not "buzz" after turning the ignition key

Here, most likely, the matter already lies in the wiring to the fuel pump. A separate article is devoted to this problem.

- engine interruptions

- the car jerks at low speed

Again, the fuel pump itself may be in order, here the small filter (mesh) under the fuel pump may already be a problem.

starter

1. Freewheel slip

Generator

Relay-regulator

Call an assistant to check the regulator. It is necessary that he starts the engine, bringing the speed to 3000. At the same time, turn on the dimensions of the high beam, the rear window heater and the stove. Measure the voltage on the battery with a tester, the value of which should be more than 13.2 V (for generator 9402.3701), or 13.6 V (for generator 37.3701).

If the voltage is much lower than this value, this may be due to a malfunction of the generator windings (break, short circuit), relay-regulator, or lack of contact due to oxidation on the excitation winding rings.

Indirectly, a malfunction of the relay-regulator can be determined by turning on the high beam, turning off the rest of the consumers. For this purpose, a voltage measurement should be made, the indicators of which should be 13.2 or 13.6 V.

A more reliable way to determine the performance of the regulator with a removed generator or relay-regulator. You will need a 12V pilot lamp, which should be connected between the brushes. Next, you should simultaneously apply a direct current with a voltage of 12 V from the power supply that is suitable for it, connecting the plus to the “D +” terminal, and the minus to the vehicle ground.

After that, the lamp should light up. If you smoothly increase the voltage to 16 V, it should go out. Otherwise, the regulator will need to be replaced. If the brand of your generator is 37.3701, connect plus from a constant voltage source to pins "B" and "C", minus to ground.

Generator valves (rectifier block)

To control it, you just need to use a battery and a control light. You need to connect the plus of the battery with the help of a test light to the “B +” generator contact (for the generator 37.3701, to the “30” contact), and the minus to the case. If the lamp is on, then there is a short circuit or breakdown in the valve block (positive and negative).

To make sure that the positive valve block is working, connect the battery plus to the contacts (“B” or “30”) using a test lamp, and the minus to any phase winding. If the light comes on, then one of the valves is broken.

How to check the VAZ 2115 generator You can check the negative valves (diodes) by connecting any phase winding to ground through the lamp (generator housing). If the lamp is on, it means that there is a short circuit in the generator case with the stator winding or one of the valves is broken. You can use an ohmmeter to check, but for this you need to disconnect any diode contact.

It is better to replace the rectifier unit in assembly and in a car repair shop.

Pumps

The water pump plays an important role in the life of the engine. Thanks to the pump, the coolant (coolant) can freely circulate through the cooling system, thus removing the temperature from the heating parts of the engine. A faulty water pump can cause the engine to overheat and completely damage it. In order to prevent this, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the pump and its performance. A faulty water pump makes itself felt by the following symptoms: Leaks in the gland area.

Humming during work. Poor coolant circulation. Increase in engine temperature.

Coolant level drop. To make sure the pump is faulty, do a few simple tests: Warm up the engine to operating temperature, then compress the top hose. If at the same time you feel that the liquid in the system continues to circulate, we can conclude that the water pump is working. Listen to see if the pump is buzzing, if a buzz is felt, it is most likely dying. It is better not to wait until this happens and replace the pump in order to avoid big troubles.

Recently I replaced the pump because it failed, as I understood from the howling sounds. Today I want to tell you about how to replace the VAZ 2110 water pump with your own hands without removing the generator drive. 1. First of all, I decided to remove the adsorber for the convenience of doing the job, without disconnecting the wires and hoses.

2. Next, you need to remove the plastic casing from the engine, as well as the timing belt casing. 3. Now take the jack and jack up the right side of the car, your task is to hang the front right wheel. This is done in order to put everything on the labels.

For convenience, I decided to make one mark with white paint, in the future, believe me, it was very useful. 4. As much as I didn’t want to, I still had to remove the wheel, because

Needed access to the lower bolt of the plastic casing. 5. In excellent condition, so there is no point in changing it.

In addition, I decided to try replacing the pump without removing the alternator drive belt. As it turned out later, this was a good idea that saved a lot of time. 6. However, the plastic casing, and with it the camshaft pulleys, still had to be removed. To do this, loosen the tension rollers, then remove the timing belt from them. 7.

Next, you need to block the camshaft gears with something flat in order to unscrew them. Be careful, the teeth are quite soft. 8. When the pulleys are dismantled, you need to unscrew the plastic casing itself.

The unpleasant moment is that one mounting bolt will need to be unscrewed in the bottom position, through the space near the wheel. Now we can say that we got to the pump. 9. The water pump VAZ 2110 is fastened with three hexagon mounting bolts. Unscrew them, then lightly tapping on her body, try to pull it out.

10. Substitute the dishes for the coolant and be careful not to spill. 11. Take a new VAZ 2110 pump and make sure it has enough lubricant. I also recommend applying a thin layer of sealant if you have a paper gasket. Let it dry.

Assembly is traditionally done in reverse order. Reinstall the water pump. Install the plastic cover. Fasten the camshaft pulleys in their places. Put on the timing belt. According to the marks made earlier on the camshaft, align and put on the timing belt.

Turn the engine with the wheel, adjust the correct tension and position of the belt. When everything is installed, add antifreeze (or any other coolant), and you can check the operation. Replacing the water pump took me 3 hours, everything works fine, the problem is fixed.