First gear is engaged. The main malfunctions of the mechanical box and difficult gear shifting

29.06.2020

The car consists of many components and mechanisms. In order for the energy of the torque to turn into action, and the car to go, you need to use it. But sometimes a situation happens when the gears are hardly engaged on the running engine. What could be the problem? Today we will try to answer this question.

VAZ or foreign car - is there a difference?

To begin with, we note that the principle of operation of the main components for all cars is the same. And such a malfunction can happen to anyone, be it a foreign car or a domestic car. The only difference is the type of drive. The lever is connected directly to the gearbox.

On front-wheel drive cars, the engine is located transversely relative to the body. Therefore, to actuate the box, a rocker or cable drive is used. On the latest VAZ models (including Kalina and Vesta), the latter type of drive is used. It is more reliable, but there are problems with it. If the gears do not turn on with the engine running (including the Niva), do not panic and take the car to a service. Perhaps the reason lies in the banal malfunctions that you can fix yourself.

Traction and backstage

If you have a front-wheel drive domestic car (nine, Priora, and so on), and the gears turn on tightly with the engine running, you should pay attention to these two details. Often, when starting from a standstill, the gearshift lever begins to rattle convulsively (this is especially true for the Lada Samara family of the first and second generation). The backstage flies out of the mounts. As a result, gears are poorly engaged with the engine running. The way out of the situation is to replace the elements with new ones. But this should be done only if you are really convinced that the backstage is malfunctioning by looking under the bottom of the car.

cable

If you have a more modern car, then the problems may lie in the cable drive.

On such machines, the gear lever does not have a backstage and is not inserted into the transmission. If the cable breaks, the gears do not turn on both on the running and on the muffled engine. This is the main sign of failure. The way out is a complete replacement of the gearbox cable. Thankfully it's inexpensive.

ICE mount cushion

Oddly enough, but this malfunction can significantly affect the quality of the gearbox. Moreover, due to bad pillows, gears do not turn on on a running engine, both with a manual transmission and with an “automatic”. On some vehicles, separate supports for the box are installed. Check their integrity and replace if necessary. It is very simple to check - the motor should not twitch from side to side with an increase in speed and at idle. If the pillows “sunk”, the motor will break the wings or the input shaft will jam.

Fork

Now consider more complex malfunctions, due to which the gears do not turn on with the engine running. UAZ is also prone to this breakdown, so you should not deprive the plug of attention. So, on most rear-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles, gears are engaged by hydraulics. When the driver presses the clutch pedal, the release piston is activated, which pushes fluid under pressure. As a result, the fork is retracted to the side, and the disk is disconnected. Inspect the condition of the plug itself and check the tightness of the system. If the level in the tank is constantly leaving (by the way, a “brake” is used for clutching), the anther may have torn. Because of this, we get an incomplete fork release. The latter also sometimes breaks off, especially on GAZelles. This case looks like this:

This suggests that the plug was not of the best quality and should be replaced. When buying such critical elements, it is not the price that matters, but the quality. Do not give preference to cheap analogues. Repairs can take you a lot of time and effort. On front-wheel drive vehicles, replacing the fork requires dismantling the gearbox.

clutch release

The design of the clutch system provides for a special one. It is he who squeezes the petals of the basket under the influence of a hydraulic drive (when you press the pedal). This bearing disconnects the disc from the basket and flywheel. As a result, the motor works separately from the box. If you release the pedal, the element will connect the two nodes again. Torque will be transmitted as the dry disc contacts the flywheel. If the gears do not turn on with the engine running, most likely the release bearing has become unusable. What are the symptoms of a malfunction? You can determine the performance of the bearing "by ear". To do this, gently press the pedal and then release it. There should be no noise, whether it is off or on the clutch. We also note that to replace the clutch release (even on rear-wheel drive cars), you will have to completely remove the box with the “bell”. This element is installed as in the photo below.

After replacement, the noise should disappear. But if even after this the gears do not turn on with the engine running, it is necessary to inspect the

Basket

Such an element is installed on all cars with a manual gearbox. As for the "automatic machines", a torque converter is used here, or in the common people a "donut". So, why don't the gears turn on with the engine running? Over time, wear occurs on the petals of the clutch basket. They bend or break. As a result, gears do not turn on with the engine running. Inspect the state of the element visually. If the petals are damaged, then the element must be replaced.

But this is not the last reason why the gears do not turn on with the engine running. If the speeds are hard to turn on, and the car shakes at the start, a worn clutch disc is to blame. The element looks like this:

This is what the new element looks like. After 100 thousand kilometers, it will take on a slightly different look.

If the disc is worn, burnt, or springs fly out on it, it should be replaced. By the way, there is also wear on the flywheel, but it is not so significant.

How often does the clutch disc change?

There is no specific regulation here. The resource of the clutch disc is a subjective concept. It all depends on the loads - whether you used a trailer, how much you overloaded the car and how often you started off with wheel slip. Each blow from the flywheel falls on the clutch disc, because its main task is to transmit torque, and do it as smoothly as possible. The resource can be from 30 to 200 or more thousand kilometers. Service life depends on driving style and vehicle load conditions.

Synchronizers

In the event of a malfunction of these elements, the gears can be switched on, but with great effort and with a characteristic crunch (as on the 53rd Lawn). The synchronizers themselves are soft gears that smooth out the angular speeds of the shafts. Typically, elements are made of copper and brass, and therefore subject to wear. As it develops, the gears will turn on more and more difficult, up to the use of a double squeeze with regassing.

transmission shafts

This is one of the rarest causes, but it should not be ruled out either.

So, the gearbox shafts themselves fail. For example, refuses to turn on the second or fifth gear. It is possible to determine the degree of wear only after dismantling the transmission and fully opening the elements. Shafts are not machined, but replaced with new ones. That's all.

Conclusion

So, we found out why the gears do not turn on with the engine running. As you can see, most problems can be identified and fixed by hand. The main thing is to identify the breakdown in time and fix it, otherwise you risk getting into expensive repairs.

As on any car, there is also a gearshift mechanism on the VAZ 2110. The VAZ box is a five-speed one, it is activated by a lever located in the passenger compartment.

In order to be able to fix problems on your own, you need to understand a little about how exactly the switching mechanism works, which is why there are cases when some speed does not turn on or crashes. And also know how to fix it on your own.

Checkpoint scheme

The gearbox is as follows:

to ensure gear shifting, there is an input shaft in the gearbox, consisting of a block of gears. They constantly engage with the drive gears from the first to the fifth speed (that is, those that have a forward direction);
the secondary shaft is equipped with the drive gear of the main gear, it also has gear synchronizers that ensure the driven gears move forward. There are also bearings plus an oil sump;
differential VAZovsky two-satellite, with a driven gear of the main gear attached to the flange of its box;
the gearbox drive consists of a gearshift knob, ball bearing, selection rod, traction, gear selection mechanisms, as well as gear shifting;
jet thrust is designed to protect the gearbox from the fact that the transmission takes off. Its ends are attached to the support and the power unit.

How speeds are chosen

A separate important gearbox assembly is the gear selection mechanism. It has a special speed selection lever, as well as two brackets for blocking. One arm of the selection lever turns on the forward stroke, the second serves to turn on the rear.

Adjustment

On the VAZ 2110, there are not so rare cases when the gears turn on badly, or they are knocked out. Especially for this, a mechanism for adjusting the drive for selecting speeds is provided.

Adjustment may be needed if:

the box was recently removed for repair;
one of the gears crashes;
speeds turn on badly or they simply knock out when the car is moving.

If you have one of these problems, try adjusting first. Her sequence:

Under the bottom of the VAZ 2110, find and slightly loosen the nut on the bolt that tightens the clamp that secures the rod designed to control the gearbox;
Slightly push the grooves of the end of the rod with a screwdriver and the gap formed on the clamp itself. This is necessary to ensure easy movement of the rod in relation to the gear selection rod. Put the rod in the neutral position;
Release the shift knob from the cover in the cabin;
Set the lever according to a special template. This is done as follows: install the template in the window of the lining of the rear speed lock bracket. After that, insert the stop of the lever axis into the groove of the template, pressing it without too much effort in the transverse direction;
Then adjust the axial play of the rod in the rear direction, and its axial play by turning to the left;
Install the clamp without reaching a few millimeters to the end of the rod. Then carefully tighten the clamp with a bolt.

Repair

If the described adjustment did not help you, you need to remove and disassemble the VAZ 2110 gearbox. Pay special attention to the fact that it often knocks out the gears that turn on the first and second speeds. Be sure to check each fixer.

They are made in the form of springs, there are three of them. The first latch is long, it is responsible for the first and second gears. The second - the average, for the third - the fourth gear. For the fifth, the shortest retainer is used.

CAT diseases

Often there is a complaint from the owners of the VAZ 2110 that the first speed turns on with difficulty or crashes.

Possible reasons:

often the synchronizer is to blame;
perhaps the latch spring has burst, the lever is loose, the speeds are turned on as they want;
the stem and fork may need to be replaced.

Another complaint is that the second gear does not turn on well, it often knocks it out.

Here you can suspect the main culprits:

the second one flies out most often because the gear teeth do not mesh well with the clutch, which turns on the speeds;
the tips of the gear teeth and the clutch are already worn out, so the speed does not turn on well. If you do not intervene, it will soon take off;
as an option, when it knocks out on bumps, the clutch dies.

Sometimes (albeit rarely) from the fact that the second one does not turn on well enough and flies out, replacing the fixing spring helps. If the speeds often fly out, some of them turn on with difficulty, then half measures will no longer help - the box needs to be overhauled.

You will carry it out yourself, or go to a service where they will repair you, as well as adjust the gearshift mechanism, decide on your own, based on your own experience and skill.

Manual transmission is a mechanism that connects the engine and the drive wheels of the vehicle (the transfer of engine torque to the wheels). The main feature is that gear shifting is completely controlled by the driver.

For the correct operation of the manual transmission, it is very important to know not only. Although the mechanic box is easy to maintain and repair, problems can still arise during operation.

In this article, we will talk about why the gears are not engaged clearly or tight, the gears do not engage at all, etc. We will also consider the main causes of manual transmission malfunctions.

Read in this article

Main Causes of Poor Shifting

Among the main reasons, experts identify the following:

the manual transmission rocker is poorly adjusted;
clutch drive malfunction (not completely disengaged);
a defect in the gearbox gear selection mechanism (defects in gears, bearings and);

The first reason why the gears are switched on poorly or the manual transmission lever does not respond at all to the driver's manipulations may be an unadjusted rocker. The backstage is a kind of rod that connects the gear lever to the gearbox (also the lever to the gearbox can be connected by means of cables).

This problem is solved by adjusting the backstage or replacing it, especially if the plastic bushings in it are worn out. The reason described above applies only to front-wheel drive cars, since in the case of rear-wheel drive cars, the gear lever is connected directly to the transmission.

A malfunction in the vehicle's clutch mechanism can also cause poor gear shifting:

Another reason for not clearly shifting gears may be a malfunction of parts and mechanisms in the gearbox:

synchronizer wear. Excessive wear of synchronizers occurs in those gears that are switched on more often, namely, in the urban cycle, these are first, second and third gears.
When driving on highways in high-speed mode, respectively, the synchronizers of increased gears of the manual transmission wear out. Wear can be determined by the characteristic crunch when shifting gears. In this case, the synchronizers are replaced.
manual transmission shaft bearings. Breakdown occurs mainly on cars with very high mileage or on cars that, by the nature of their activities, carry heavy loads. In one and the other case, manual transmission bearings are subject to increased wear. At the initial stage, bearing wear is manifested by the appearance of a monotonous howling sound from the box. If no measures are taken, then further development appears in the worn bearing, which leads to axial runout of the bearing, followed by its jamming. Parts of the crumbling bearing can get into the gears of the manual transmission and completely disable it.
destruction of the gear teeth of the gearbox due to physical wear or factory defects. When operating a car with mechanics, the teeth of one of the gears of the gearbox may “fall out” with subsequent possible destruction of the gearbox.
As a result, the gear whose gear is damaged ceases to turn on, and fragments of the collapsed gear can damage the rest of the manual transmission mechanisms.

What is the result

It is important to understand that a manual transmission is a reliable unit, which normally should not cause discomfort to the driver when driving a vehicle. This means that in the case of complete serviceability, the work must be clear and balanced.

If the driver notes extraneous vibrations, noises, etc., there is a fuzzy engagement or knocking out of gear while the car is moving, then it is necessary to immediately diagnose the manual transmission.

At the same time, it is important to determine not only why the speed on the gearbox does not turn on or the manual transmission gears turn on tightly, but also to eliminate the cause as soon as possible.

In other words, riding a faulty gearbox can cause bearings, etc. to collapse. As a result, further damage to the components and mechanisms of the manual transmission cannot be avoided, and the cost of repairing the gearbox in this case increases significantly.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear changes on a car with a manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch malfunction, when it does not fully disengage (leads). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear engages with a characteristic crack. The rear reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than the other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gearbox gear selection mechanism. And, finally, the third - excessive wear of gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears do not shift well:

Excessive wear of synchronizers mainly occurs in those gears that are switched on more often: these are usually first, second and third. The rear one does not fall into this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When your gear shifts poorly, and you assume that the reason for this is the wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should only have difficulties with this on the go. Secondly, in this case it switches better if you use a double release.

For those who do not know what a double squeeze is. To upshift: depress the clutch, shift into neutral, release and depress the clutch again, shift into gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for the fuzzy gear shifting

To switch to a lower one: double squeeze must be combined with regassing, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the box is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So they switch gears on a car whose box does not have synchronizers. If the box shifts easier using a double squeeze, then the worn out synchronizers are most likely to blame for the poor gear shifting.

If the gears shift poorly when the car is stationary with the engine turned off, the malfunction can only be in the gearbox gear selection mechanism.

Look for a breakdown in it or check the correctness of its adjustment. Don't even think about the clutch and synchronizers.

For those who have an automatic

If your car has automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

The automatic gearbox has a button on the mode switch with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, a switch-on prohibition occurs, which upshifts the analog of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your machine has 4 forward gears, then for more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

About a gearbox malfunction, an automatic transmission is much more complicated than those encountered with a manual transmission, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about it, at least in order not to harm it by improper operation.

Automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than mechanics. Both too low and too high oil levels are very harmful to her. Both can lead to serious damage. In both cases, foaming of the oil occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump begins to capture air along with the oil. With an excess of oil, it foams up the rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate the machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slippage of the clutches and their intensive wear. The deteriorating thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. Which, in combination with low pressure, will lead to the fact that the machine will fail and require serious repairs.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will show too high a level. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. Then check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required poria and repeat the test.

The oil level in the machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

Warm up the oil to operating temperature (for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Choose a flat horizontal area for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

Move the lever for selecting the operating mode of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine operates.
Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
Without stopping the engine, remove the dipstick, wipe it dry and re-insert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of oil traces on a dry dipstick should be at the mark with the inscription hot or in the area with intersecting notches.

In case of insufficient level, oil can be added through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so add only clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth that does not loose threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. A dark, burning-smelling liquid indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material that the clutches are made of. Do not hesitate to replace such an oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze getting into the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant can get into the box due to leaks in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common malfunctions of the machine

The vehicle does not move forward and reverse is normal. Possible reasons: wear of the forward clutch clutches, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
There is no reverse speed, there are only 1 and 2 forward. Probable causes: wear of the reverse clutch clutches, malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline connection in the drum housing, another defect of this drum.
No back, forward everything works. Causes: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
There is no movement either forward or backward when you turn on any mode, there is a shifting push, but the car stands still. Causes: torque converter malfunction, lack of oil, clogged filter.
Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are engaged. Causes: valve jamming in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and friction clutches of gears that do not turn on.