Tavria Nova / Slavuta. The engine knocks "cold"
Causes
The sudden appearance of extraneous sounds from under the hood can scare any driver. Such changes in the operation of the motor do not bode well - it means that financial expenses await you. But what is the cause of knocking when the engine warms up?
There are a lot of reasons why the engine may start to make various sounds that are not characteristic of normal operation. In any case, when such changes appear, it is necessary to go to a car service as soon as possible to diagnose and identify the problem. An experienced minder, like a professional musician, hears and feels all the shades of engine sounds and can easily determine the cause.
Engine wear
The culprit for the appearance of knocks on a cold engine may be wear. During operation, everything inside the engine gradually wears out, thermal gaps increase, which leads to a knock on a cold engine. Therefore, the appearance of extraneous noise may indicate the need to adjust the valves or change the hydraulic lifters. Knocking can also be caused by worn main bearings.
On chain motors, the appearance of knocks may indicate an imminent need to replace the timing. As a rule, not only the chain itself is changed, but also the tensioner, and, if necessary, the gears. The most serious causes of knocking from the engine include the knock of pistons. Worn pistons “skirt” the cylinder walls, leaving scuff marks on them.
Poor quality gasoline
Detonation is one of the possible causes of knocking in the engine. But unlike other causes, knocking during detonation does not disappear after the engine warms up. This happens due to improper ignition of the fuel-air mixture, which leads to micro-explosions inside the combustion chamber. Prolonged driving with detonations is guaranteed to lead to engine failure. One of the most common causes of detonation was refueling with low-quality fuel. For example, if on many modern engines, instead of the 95th, fill in the 92nd, then this can lead to detonation.
Other
Frightening, making various sounds from the engine compartment, can also be broken parts of attachments, such as a generator, starter, pump, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, drive belt tensioners. Worn out engine and gearbox mounts can also make knocks when driving.
The hydraulic compensator knocks on the cold. Knock of hydraulic lifters on a cold engine
Each car enthusiast, when operating a vehicle, will certainly listen to how his car works. The appearance of extraneous noise in the operation of the engine, as a rule, does not bring joy to the owner. The presence of the slightest malfunction requires an urgent diagnosis and elimination of the problem. During operation, the engine generates heat, and when it is exposed to the metal, the latter begins to expand. As a result, large gaps form on some parts, which just lead to the appearance of extraneous noise. One of the problems can be knocking hydraulic lifters, which independently adjust the desired gap. In this article, we will approach a broad explanation of the topic. What are hydraulic lifters (their device, purpose), why they knock in different engine operating modes - read about all this below.
This element is a piston, with the help of which the thermal gaps are automatically adjusted. The principle of operation of this device is quite simple. The bottom of the piston interacts with the camshaft cam.
hydraulic lifter knocking on cold
A ball valve is installed in the piston, with the help of which the damper opens and oil begins to flow. When the piston is filled with oil, pressure will be applied to the existing plunger, causing the piston to move all the way to the cam. As a result, the most optimal gap is automatically set. When the cam acts on the piston through the valve, part of the oil escapes.
The piston goes down a little, thereby creating a gap. The latter on the hydraulic compressor is regulated by the flow of incoming oil. At this stage, we learned what hydraulic lifters (their devices) are.
It's easy enough to hear. The knock of hydraulic lifters on a cold or hot engine begins to manifest itself directly during engine operation and has a direct impact on the stability of its operation.
The reasons that the element knocks “hot” are as follows:
The oil pump has failed. The system is not under pressure.
- The hydraulic compensator hydraulics are broken, that is, the required amount of oil is not in the system or, conversely, there is an excess of it.
-The seating area of the part has increased significantly due to the heating of the engine, during which the metals expand.
These causes of malfunction are typical only for a warm engine. It is worth noting that the sound of these elements on a hot engine is quite rare.
Most often, the hydraulic compensator knocks “cold”, while for both modes the sound may appear due to the poor quality of the oil. It also occurs due to a contaminated lubricating fluid purification system.
Knock of hydraulic lifters on a cold engine
There are many more reasons why the part knocks on a cold engine than on a hot one. It is not always possible to determine the source of the "clatter" of hydraulic lifters. Therefore, in some situations it is advisable to seek help from a specialized station.
The main reasons that hydraulic lifters knock on a cold engine:
Plunger production.
- Strong contamination of engine oil due to violation of the timing of the change. Note: when the engine warms up with this cause, the knock will disappear, as a new batch of oil supplied to the part will wash out the exhaust.
- Formation of bubbles, which adversely affects the compressibility of the lubricant.
- Failure or uneven operation of the ball valve.
- Use of low quality oil.
-Using a high viscosity lubricant. As a result, no oil enters the parts at all until the engine warms up.
- The filter element is dirty.
Several units cannot knock at the same time, as a rule, only one sounds. To find out which one has become unusable, it is necessary to make a diagnosis.
How to find out the faulty element
Having dealt with the causes of a possible malfunction in the operation of the engine, you need to consider a way to determine the faulty part. In specialized workshops, a knocking hydraulic compensator is identified using acoustic diagnostics.
In addition, a knocking hydraulic compensator can be identified on a disassembled engine. To do this, remove the valve cover and push through each of the elements. Elements that drown easily will be faulty, since the least pressure prevails in them. The most important thing in diagnosing a malfunction is the lack of influence of the camshaft cam on the units. It is impossible to determine the faulty element by other methods.
What to do when an element knocks
Most drivers are concerned about one question: when the hydraulic lifter knocks, what should I do? Since most problems with knocking are directly related to poor oil quality or interruptions in the operation of the lubrication system, it is necessary to change the oil and the engine filter element. In addition, it is necessary to flush the channels of the system to remove the existing operating time.
Oil selection
In such a situation, many will think about what kind of oil to pour with knocking hydraulic lifters. The answer is quite simple: it is necessary to fill in the lubricant of the desired viscosity, which is recommended for use by the manufacturer. Currently, in the summer, it is most popular to use semi-synthetics on cars, that is, 10W-40. In winter, 5W-40 should be poured.
After changing the oil and filter, you should not be sure that there will be no sound. Quite the contrary: the knock of hydraulic compensators “on the cold” will also be heard due to the fact that there is no lubricant left in the pistons after draining. However, after the engine warms up, it should disappear, thereby confirming the correctness of the replacement decision.
flushing
Not always the use of new oil will help to remove the knock. This has to do with how badly the fault was triggered. In this case, it is necessary to determine the defective element and dismantle it for subsequent washing in gasoline. Often, due to the use of bad oil, the compensator is gradually contaminated. The removed compensators are mounted back into place in the order in which they were dismantled. It is worth noting that flushing the elements is a rather complicated process that will require special skills from the car owner.
Knock can be eliminated in the following way:
Turn the crankshaft until the valve corresponding to the defective element opens.
-Then it is necessary to turn the valve at an angle to restore the correct installation of the part.
-After that, you should start the engine and check for sound.
This method is applicable if the hydraulic lifters are knocking on the car “on the cold”. If the cause persists and the sound is still observed, a complete replacement of the part is required.
At the same time, it is worth remembering that, due to the design of modern cars of domestic production, all models of the latest generations have a short-term knock of hydraulic lifters when starting the engine. There is nothing to worry about, and it is not always possible to eliminate such a malfunction even as a result of repairs in a specialized center or after a complete replacement of the part.
Installing a new part
It is produced if the sound does not disappear after the new oil. Car owners do not dare to experiment with flushing. You can replace the compensator with your own hands, and the process is identical for all car models. The only difference in specific models is the need to replace the valve cover gasket due to the design of the engine.
Consider the process of replacing compensators:
Remove valve cover.
- Remove the sprocket from the camshaft.
-Check damper and tensioner for wear.
- Take off the bed.
-Lay out the pushers strictly in the order of extraction.
-Get the compensators and put them in order.
- The lubrication system and hydraulic compensator seats are being cleaned.
- We install the new elements carefully in place, while screwing in should be done with a torque wrench to control the applied force.
-Other parts are installed in reverse order.
What part of the car is one of the first to fail during the onset of cold weather? I suggest the correct answer is stove (heater) radiator. I think that you will agree with me ... You can, of course, remember the soured (current) stove tap, oak (burst) pipes of the cooling radiator, the cooling radiator itself, or finally the thermostat. But, all of them, are inferior to the bar of superiority to the radiator of the stove))). The legendary Ukrainian Tavria and Slavuta are no exception. The problem with the leaking stove is familiar to them. True, I can immediately please and reassure the happy owners of ZAZ 1102-1105, if the floor mats in the cabin become wet from antifreeze or you installed such a device under the torpedo as in photo number one, then you should not be very upset. I'll explain why. Firstly, there is a stove radiator for your "penny" swallow. Secondly, you can buy it in almost any store. Third, replace the stove radiator in Tavria or Slavuta maybe even a child, and very quickly. And it's not a joke. You will be able to verify this when you read the article to the end. There is truth, not a big but .... With any repair, cars ZAZ 1102-1105, Tavria, Slavuta I have to remember the design engineers of the Zaporozhye Automobile Plant))). And even here, with all the simplicity of the design of the heating system and the ease of replacing the stove radiator, our lads could not help but leave a little surprise for car repairmen and car enthusiasts who like to pick their iron friend on their own)))). But first things first!
About spare parts.... Because on Tavria and Slavutakh have stove (heater) radiators from the VAZ-2108 then you will have a lot of choice. You can stop at a high-quality Russian-made radiator (VIS, DAAZ, LUZAR) or save as much as possible, go on an adventure and buy a Chinese product - LSA, AT, Roadmap. The choice is always yours. As for recommendations, for example, I very often opt for the "golden mean" - radiators manufactured by "LUZAR". Not expensive and good quality.
Also, when buying a stove radiator (heater), you should think about the coolant. That is, decide what will be poured into the cooling system after replacing the radiator - old antifreeze or water, new antifreeze (or antifreeze). If the radiator leaked and you had to add water, then it would be best to fill in a new coolant, especially if winter is on the threshold or has already come (as the law of meanness, the radiator flows precisely when the first frost sets in). Let me remind you that the cooling system of Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 cars includes 7 liters of antifreeze .
The tool you need when replacing the stove radiator (heater) on the cars Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102, ZAZ-1103, ZAZ-1105: wrench 14, socket wrench 10, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, a container for draining the coolant.
And smoothly, move on to the main - do-it-yourself description of replacing the stove radiator (heater) on Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 cars:
1. First of all, using a key of 14, you should unscrew the drain plug on the cylinder block (photo 2) and drain the antifreeze (or whatever you have filled in) into a previously prepared container. If you decide to replace the coolant together with the radiator, then it is necessary to drain the liquid from the cooling radiator. To do this, we find and unscrew the drain plug on the radiator in the lower right corner (photo 3).
2. Next, you need to unscrew the clamps of the two pipes of the stove radiator. You can see their location in photos 4 and 5. Isn't it a very convenient place? How well the clamps are hidden! Here about this unpleasant surprise, I also spoke above. You can, of course, try to twist them with a screwdriver or a ring wrench and at the same time remember that in the same manner, you will still have to twist them. As they say, if you suffer for a long time, then something will work out! And you can do it easier, as a last resort, I do it.
3. First, unscrew the pipe clamp that goes to the stove tap (photo 6). We remove the tube. Next, unscrew the clamp and remove the pipe from the water distribution pipe (photo 7).
4. We climb into the car, first from the driver's side. We disconnect the wires from the additional resistance of the electric motor of the stove (photo 8) and power supply (photo 9). We unscrew the mounting plate that goes from the torpedo to the heater body, if there is one, of course (photo 10)
5. With a socket wrench, with a 10 wrench, unscrew the two nuts of the heater housing (photo 11). Please note that mass wires "hang" on these studs; when assembling, do not forget to return them to their place. We unscrew the same two nuts on the right, passenger side (photo 12).
6. We lower the body of the stove down and slightly towards ourselves. Now, access to the stove radiator pipes is more convenient (photo 13). We unscrew them. It remains only to unscrew the three screws (photo 14) and pull the stove radiator out of the body. That is, the heater housing does not need to be removed from the passenger compartment. We do everything on the spot. Installing a new radiator. And we assemble in the reverse order.
That's all! Replacing the stove radiator (heater) on Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102, ZAZ-1103, ZAZ-1105 cars was successful and fast. For 1-1.5 you can cope with this task without too much haste))).
When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!
Rice. 30. Engine cooling system:
1 - cork body; 2 - pump drive pulley; 3 - bearing assembly with shaft; 4 - stop ping, 5 - pump housing; 6 - sealing cuff; 7 - impeller; 8 - bypass pipe; 9 - pump assembly; 10 - hose to the heater radiator; 11 - tee; 12 - hose to the expansion tank; 13, 20 and 34 - gaskets; 14 - branch pipe; 15 - supply hose; 16 - hose from the thermostat; 17 - thermostat; 18 - outlet hose; 19 - radiator hose; 21 - pin; 22 - fan motor; 23 - remote bushing; 24 - cushioning sleeve; 25 - casing; 26 - impeller; 27 - steam outlet hose; 28 - latch; 29 - radiator; 30 - bushing; 31 - front tape; 32 - back tape; 33 - expansion tank; 35 - valve block.
Device. The car uses a liquid engine cooling system with forced circulation of liquid by a centrifugal pump. The cooling system is of a closed type, i.e., its communication with the atmosphere occurs only through the valve block, which opens at a certain pressure or vacuum in it. An expansion tank is used to compensate for changes in coolant volume.
The thermal regime of the engine is controlled by the temperature of the coolant, the sensor of which is installed on the cylinder head, and the thermometer is on the instrument panel. The use of a liquid cooling system of this type provides the most advantageous thermal regime of the engine, which increases its durability and improves efficiency.
The cooling system (Fig. 30) consists of an engine cooling jacket, a thermostat, a coolant pump, a radiator, and an electric fan. A heat exchanger for the body cabin heater is also connected to it, the circulation of liquid through which is regulated by tap 12 (see Fig. 31). At the factory, the system is filled with an aqueous solution of Tosol liquid, which has anti-corrosion properties. In addition, this liquid is not prone to foaming, precipitation and evaporation, and at low temperatures does not turn into ice. Its boiling point at normal atmospheric pressure is 108 ° C. In the warm season (at an ambient temperature above 0 ° C), water can also be used as a coolant with the addition of the Avtoantinakipin preparation. Capacity of the cooling system (together with the heat exchanger of the body heater) 7 l.
During the operation of the cooling system, the liquid, depending on the position of the thermostat valves and the heater start-up cock, can circulate in three circles, shown by arrows in fig. 31.
Fig 31. Scheme of the engine cooling system:
1 - radiator; 2 - sensor for turning on the fan motor; 3 - electric fan; 4 - radiator drain plug; 5 - coolant temperature indicator sensor; 6 - pump: 7 - engine; 8 - inlet pipeline; 9 - plug of the expansion tank; 10 - expansion tank; 11 - engine drain plug; 12 - heater valve; 13 - heater; 14 - thermostat; red arrows - fluid circulation in a large circle; blue arrows - fluid circulation in a small circle; white fluid circulation when the heater tap is open.
The engine cooling jacket consists of cavities and channels obtained by casting. They are located in the cylinder block, cylinder head and intake manifold. In the gaskets sealed at the joints, holes are made for the passage of coolant. The coolant carries away the generated heat from the outer surfaces of the cylinder walls, combustion chambers, plug sockets, bushings and valve seats.
The liquid leaving the cylinder head serves to heat the air in the cabin with the heat exchanger valve open, as well as to heat the carburetor mixing chamber in the intake manifold to improve its mixture formation. The liquid, having entered the radiator heat exchanger, is cooled, giving off its heat through the thin walls of its tubes to the air passing through it.
The liquid level in the expansion tank on a cold engine at a temperature of 15 ... 25 ° C should be 20 ... 30 mm above the mark on the expansion tank.
Periodically, the density of the coolant Tosol should be checked with a densimeter at a temperature of 20 ° C. At low density (below 1.075 g / cm3 and at high density (more than 1.095 g / cm3), the temperature of the beginning of liquid crystallization rises. This can lead to its freezing in the cold season. If the level in the tank is below normal, it is necessary to add boiled or distilled water.If the density is normal, it is necessary to add liquid of the brand that is in the cooling system.If the density of the liquid in the cooling system is below normal, and the car will be operated in the cold season, then it is necessary replace coolant.
Thermostat TC 103-04 provides normal thermal conditions of the engine. A thermostat is installed (Fig. 32) between the rubber pipes connecting the engine to the radiator. The thermostat has two inlet pipes, and pipe 1 is connected by a hose through a tee to the outlet pipe on the cylinder head, and pipe 4 is connected to the lower radiator tank.
Rice. 32. Thermostat:
1 - inlet pipe from the engine; 2 - outlet pipe; 3 - valve; 4 - inlet pipe from the radiator; 5 - thermosensitive element; 6 - main valve spring; 7 - 32 bypass valve spring; 8 - bypass valve; A - fluid inlet from the engine; B - fluid inlet from the radiator; h - stroke of the bypass valve.
Rice. 33. Engine cooling pump:
1 - gasket; 2 - locking screw; 3 - ball bearing; 4 - shaft; 5 - cuff body; 6 - rubber seal; 7 - spring; 8 - graphite ring; 9 - pump pulley for coolant; 10 - hole for draining liquid; 11 - annular groove on the shaft; 12 - body; 13 - impeller; I - pump cavity; II - pump cuff.
Rice. 34. Radiator cooling system:
1 - tube; 2 - tank gasket; 3 - left radiator tank; 4 - folding mustache of the bottom of the tank; 5 - radiator turbulator; 6 - cooling plates; 7 - the bottom of the tank.
The outlet pipe 2 is connected by a hose and a metal pipe to the inlet to the coolant pump.
The temperature-sensitive element 5 of the thermostat consists of a glass pressed into the main valve 3, which is pressed against the seat by a spring 6. The bypass valve 8 is installed in the holder and supported by the spring 7.
The temperature at which the main valve starts to open is 8 7°C + 2°C. When the coolant temperature is below the specified one, the main valve 3 closes the fluid outlet from the radiator, while the bypass valve 8 is open and connects the fluid outlet from the engine to the pump inlet.
If the temperature of the coolant rises, the solid filler of the temperature-sensitive element expands and, overcoming the resistance of the spring, moves the glass with the main valve upwards. The bypass valve 8, pressed by the spring 7, opens the passage of liquid from the engine to the water pump with the bottom of the glass. When the coolant temperature is over 94°C, the main valve 3 is fully open and the coolant circulates through the radiator.
At intermediate temperatures, liquid circulates through both the main valve and the bypass valve. This ensures that the cold fluid is gradually mixed into the hotter one, than the best conditions for engine operation are achieved.
The pump (fig. 33) of the cooling system is installed on the front of the right side of the cylinder block. It is driven by a flat-toothed belt from the crankshaft drive pulley. The gear ratio of the driving and driven pulleys is 1:1. Vane type pump, centrifugal. Cast iron driven pulley 9 and impeller 13 with seven helical blades are pressed onto shaft 4 with an interference fit.
The body 12 of the coolant pump is die-cast aluminum alloy. The pump is fastened through gasket 1 to the crankcase with three bolts. The pump shaft 4 rotates in a double-row non-separable bearing 3, which has moisture and dirt protection and does not require replenishment of lubricant during operation. From longitudinal movement relative to the water pump housing, the bearing is fixed with a screw 2.
Seal II, which prevents liquid from seeping into the bearing, consists of a housing, a rubber seal, an expansion spring and a graphite ring. The rubbing pair in the cuff is a graphite ring and the end face of the impeller. To protect the bearings from accidentally leaking liquid through the cuff, an annular groove 11 is made on the pump shaft between the cuff and the bearing, from which, when it rotates, the liquid is discharged and flows out through the hole 10 in the pump housing. A noticeable leak of fluid through this hole indicates a malfunction of the pump. It must be remembered that its blockage can lead to failure of the pump bearings.
The radiator (Fig. 34) is made of aluminum tubes with aluminum washers pressed onto them. The ends of the tubes are flared in metal support plates and sealed with rubber seals. Plastic side tanks of the radiator are tightly attached to the support plates with folding antennae and sealed with rubber seals. A sensor for turning on the engine of the electric fan of the cooling system and a plug for draining the coolant are screwed into the right tank of the radiator. The left tank is molded together with three nozzles for
hose connections with parts of the cooling system. The tanks have three threaded bosses. The casing of the electric fan is bolted to these bosses through rubber shock-absorbing bushings.
The radiator is installed in the front of the engine compartment on a transverse traverse. To fix the radiator on the traverse, there are two holes in which the radiator is fixed through rubber bushings (shock absorbers). At the top, the radiator is attached with a bolt passing through the electric fan casing to the radiator lining shelf.
The electric fan of the engine cooling system enhances the air flow through the radiator, and hence the heat transfer. The device of the electric fan and the electrical switching circuit are described in sec. "Electrical equipment".
The impeller is four-blade, made of plastic.
On the motor shaft, the impeller hub is fixed with a spring retainer and locked with a pin. The electric fan is located in the casing and is bolted to the radiator.
The valve block is installed in the expansion tank of the cooling system and is held in it by the plug body. The valve block is used to maintain excess pressure in the cooling system, which ensures a higher boiling point of the liquid. The valve block consists of a body, in which the details of the inlet and outlet pressure in the system are located above 0.12 + 0.01 MPa. The intake valve opens when there is a vacuum in the cooling system. If tightness is lost in the valve block, the valve must be replaced.
The car can be equipped with a coolant level sensor, complete with a new (by design) instrument cluster. The sensor is installed in the expansion tank. When the liquid level in the expansion tank drops below the permissible level, the contact plug (float) drops to its lowest position on the sensor rod and turns on the liquid level signal lamp (orange).
Maintenance.
Maintenance of cooling systems consists only in periodically checking the liquid level in the expansion tank, which should always (on a cold engine) be 30 mm higher than the lower mark made on the tank wall.
After the first 5,000 km of a new car, you should carefully check the tightness of all connections. If drops or slight moisture are found on the connections, tighten the connections.
Every 15 thousand kilometers, it is necessary to check the tightness of connections and seals. If necessary, add Tosol A-40M to the cooling system to the required level. In the absence of Tosol A-40M liquid (only in case of emergency), clean water can be added to the system, preferably boiled or distilled, while adhering to the following order: with a cold engine, remove the plug from the expansion tank and add water so that its level is above the lower marks on the expansion tank for 20 ... 30 mm.
Every 60 thousand kilometers or not earlier than after 4 years (whichever comes first), it is necessary to flush the cooling system and fill in a new liquid of the Tosol A-40M brand. In extreme cases, if necessary, if there is no Tosol A-40M liquid, clean water can be poured into the system. It should be borne in mind that in winter the water must be drained.
Rice. 35. Black valves plugs of the expansion tank of the engine cooling system, assy:
1 - exhaust valve spring plate; 2 - intake valve spring; 3 - inlet valve stem; 4 - intake valve gasket; 5 - inlet valve; 6 - valve body; 7 - exhaust valve gasket; 8 - exhaust valve spring.
Rice. 36. Coolant level sensor:
1 - connecting plug; 2 - sensor housing; 3 - expansion tank; 4 - rod; 5 - contact plug.
Attention. When changing the fluid in the system, the valve for turning on the heater (in the passenger compartment) must be open.
Every 60 thousand kilometers, it is necessary to check the operation of the thermostat, valve block and coolant level sensor (if installed on the car).
Coolant replacement.
This operation must be performed in the following sequence:
- remove the plug of the expansion tank and open the heater valve in the passenger compartment;
- remove the engine mudguard (right) by unscrewing two screws and one nut;
- clean from dust and dirt the places adjacent to the drain plug of the right radiator tank (in the lower part) and to the drain plug on the cylinder block (the plug is located in the lower part of the first cylinder near the water pump cavity). On cars of earlier releases (before 1990), the fluid drain plug from the cylinder block is located under the exhaust manifold on the left side in the direction of the car;
- put tanks under the radiator cap and the cylinder block cap;
- unscrew the drain plug of the radiator and drain the liquid, then unscrew the plug on the cylinder block and also drain the liquid. After draining, wrap the plugs.
Fill the engine cooling system with clean water through the filler neck of the expansion tank to the normal level and tighten the tank cap. Start the engine and warm it up at an average speed of the crankshaft. Let the engine run for 3..5 minutes. Then stop the engine and drain the water. Refill the system with clean water and repeat the operation.
Then it is necessary to stop the engine, drain the water and fill the system with the recommended brand of coolant. Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes to remove air pockets. After the engine cools down, check the fluid level, if it is below normal and there are no leaks in the system, add fluid to the norm.
In the northern regions, where the coolant is cold for a long time, it ages more slowly. Therefore, after the warranty period of the coolant (60 thousand km of the car), it can still be operated after checking its quality. If the liquid is free of dirt and oil and has retained its blue color, you can check its density. If necessary, bring the density to normal and use the liquid for another year. Repeat the test after a year of operation.
Checking the operation of the thermostat. This operation consists of checking the temperature at which the main valve opens and checking the stroke of the bypass valve. To do this, the thermostat is removed from the engine and placed in a tank with technical glycerin or coolant and fixed on the bracket. An indicator leg is attached to the bottom of the bypass valve 8 of the thermostat (see Fig. 32).
The initial temperature of the liquid should be 78...80 °C. The temperature of the liquid is then gradually increased at a rate of approximately 1°C 35 per minute with constant stirring.
The temperature at which the bypass valve stroke is 0.1 mm is taken as the temperature at which the valve opens. This temperature should be 87 + 2°C. At a temperature of 102 °C, the travel of the bypass valve must be at least 8 mm. The thermostat must be replaced if the temperature at which the valve starts to open is not between 8 7 + 2 °C or the stroke of the bypass valve is less than 8 mm at 102 °C.
The simplest check for a thermostat malfunction can be carried out by touch directly on the car. After starting a cold engine with a working thermostat, the lower radiator pipe should heat up when the coolant temperature reaches 87 + 2 ° C. In this case, the arrow of the coolant temperature gauge should set between the numbers 80 ... 100.
Increased coolant consumption.
Causes of malfunction and solutions:
- the valve block (Fig. 35) of the plug of the expansion tank is faulty. Check the valve opening pressure, which should be within (0.12 + 0.01 MPa). If necessary, replace the plug;
- Expansion tank cap gasket damaged. Replace the gasket with a new one;
- damage to the cuff of the liquid pump, liquid leaking through hole 10 (see Fig. 33) to drain the liquid. Remove the liquid pump from the engine, disassemble, replace the cuff with a new one and check the pump;
- the radiator is damaged. Check the tightness of the radiator and establish the place of fluid leakage. If a leak is found on the seal of the tubes with the rubber gasket of the tank, it can be eliminated by pressing the folding whiskers 4 of the bottom 7 of the tank (see Fig. 34). To do this, it is necessary to install a reliable stop under the bottom of the tank so as not to deform it and slightly press the mustache on the tank in places where the liquid leaks. If a leak occurs through damaged tubes 1, it is necessary to repair the radiator by disassembling and installing repair tubes of a smaller diameter with their subsequent burnishing (punching with a mandrel, i.e., increasing the diameter of the tubes);
- damage to the gaskets in the joints of the pipelines of the cooling system. Check and replace damaged gaskets;
- the cylinder head bolts are loosely or in a non-recommended order. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque and in the correct order;
- fluid leaks in the heater radiator and through the connections of the engine cooling system with the heater. Eliminate leaks in the radiator in the same way as on the radiator of the cooling system, eliminate leaks in the connection.
Checking the operation of the coolant level sensor (Fig. 36). A serviceable sensor should, when the liquid level in the tank drops below the permissible level, turn on the signal control lamp on the instrument cluster. This indicator lamp (orange) is fitted to the new instrument cluster. If the control lamp does not turn on, it is necessary to remove the liquid level sensor from the tank and check it. On the sensor rod, the float must move without jamming and not be damaged. Check the contact connection on the sensor head and on the plug. Clean dirty contacts. If the float or plug is damaged, replace the sensor with a new one.
Cooling system.
Rice. 11. Cooling system.
1. Radiator;
2. Fan motor;
3. Fan;
4. Relay;
5. Fuses;
6. Fluid temperature gauge;
7. Ignition switch;
8. Fuses;
9. Thermal switch;
0. Drain valve;
11. Hose leading to the radiator;
12. Hose outlet from the radiator;
13. Thermostat;
14. Pipe leading to the pump;
15. Coolant temperature sensor;
16. Bypass hose;
17. Drain plug from the cylinder block:
18. Carburetor heating fitting;
19. Intake manifold heating cavity;
20. The cavity of the block and the cylinder head;
21. Pump;
22. Branch pipe to the bypass hose;
23. Bypass valve;
24. Spring;
25. Main valve;
26. Thermal force element;
27. Inlet pipe from the radiator;
28. Pipe for supplying fluid to the pump;
29. Heater radiator in the cabin;
30. Heater tap;
31. Inlet hose;
32. Outlet hose
33. Bypass hose;
34. Hose from the radiator to the expansion tank;
35. Expansion tank;
36. Cork;
37. Pulley;
38. Bearing;
39. Stopper;
40. Roller;
41. Control hole;
42. Hull;
43. Sealant assembly;
44. Impeller;
45. Cuff;
46. Spring;
47. O-ring.
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
Type of cooling system - liquid, closed with an expansion tank, with forced circulation. The radiator is aluminum, tubular-lamellar with plastic tanks. The thermostat is non-separable, thermosensitive element with a solid filler. The beginning of the opening of the main valve at 87±2 °C; full opening at 102 °C. Coolant - Tosol A-40 or Tosol A-65.
Refueling capacity of the system, l .................... 7.
Design features and technical condition check.
Closed type cooling system, i.e. its communication with the atmosphere occurs only through a special valve that opens at a certain pressure or vacuum in it. An expansion tank is used to compensate for changes in the volume of the coolant (Fig. 11). The thermal regime of the engine is controlled by the temperature of the coolant, the sensor of which is installed on the cylinder head, and the temperature gauge is on the instrument panel. The use of a liquid cooling system of this type provides the most advantageous thermal regime of the engine, which increases its durability and improves efficiency. The cooling system consists of an engine water jacket, a water pump 21, a radiator 1, a thermostat 13, an electric fan 3, a fan switch-on sensor 9, an expansion tank 35 with a safety valve, connecting pipelines, drain plugs 17 on the engine block 10 and on the radiator of the temperature sensor TM- 100A, flat-toothed belt drive pump. A heat exchanger 29 of the body cabin heater is also connected to it, the circulation of the liquid through which is regulated by valve 30. The circuit is filled with an aqueous solution of a special liquid "TOSOL-A", which has anti-corrosion properties. In addition, it is not prone to foaming, sedimentation and evaporation, and at low temperatures it does not turn into ice, its boiling point at normal atmospheric pressure is about 108 ° C. In the warm season (when the ambient temperature is above 0 ° C), water can be used. Capacity of the cooling system (together with the heat exchanger of the body heater) 7 l. Refueling of the coolant is carried out through the plug of the expansion tank to a level exceeding (with a cold engine) the "min" mark made on the wall of the tank. During the operation of the cooling system, the liquid, depending on the position of the thermostat valves and the heater switch-on valve, can circulate in three circles. The water jacket of the engine consists of cavities and channels obtained by casting. They are located in the cylinder block, cylinder head and intake manifold. In the gaskets that seal the joints, holes are made for the passage of coolant. The coolant carries away the generated heat from the outer surfaces of the cylinder walls, combustion chambers, plug sockets, bushings and valve seats. The liquid leaving the cylinder head serves to heat the air in the cabin, with the heat exchanger valve open and in the intake pipe, it heats up its walls and the carburetor mixing chamber to improve mixture formation. The liquid, having entered the radiator heat exchanger, is cooled, giving off its heat through the thin walls of its tubes to the air passing through it.
Water pump 21 cooling system (Fig. 11) is installed on the front of the right side of the cylinder block. The pump is driven by a flat-toothed belt from the driving and driven pulleys 1: 1. The pump is vane type centrifugal. Cast iron driven pulley 37 and the impeller 44 with seven helical blades are pressed onto the shaft 40 with an interference fit. The water pump body 42 is die-cast aluminum alloy. The pump is attached through a gasket to the crankcase with three MB bolts. Shaft 40 rotates in a double-row non-separable bearing 38, which has moisture and dirt protection and does not require replenishment of lubricant during operation. From longitudinal movement relative to the water pump housing, the bearing is fixed with a screw 39. The cuff 45 (Fig. 11), which prevents fluid from flowing into the bearing, consists of a housing, a rubber sealing cuff, an expansion spring 46 and a graphite ring 47. The rubbing pair in the cuff is a graphite ring and impeller end. To protect the bearings from accidentally leaking liquid through the seal, an annular groove is made on the pump shaft between the cuff and the bearing, from which, when it rotates, the liquid is discharged and flows out through the hole 41 in the pump housing. A noticeable leak of fluid through this hole indicates a malfunction of the pump. It must be remembered that its blockage can lead to failure of the pump bearings.
Thermostat (Fig. 11). To ensure the normal thermal regime of the engine in the cooling system, a thermostat of the TS 1033-04 type is used. A thermostat is installed between the rubber pipes connecting the engine to the radiator. The thermostat has two inlet pipes, and the pipe 22 is connected by a hose through a tee to the outlet pipe on the cylinder head. Branch pipe 27 is connected to the lower radiator tank. The outlet pipe 28 is connected by a hose and a metal pipe to the water pump inlet. The temperature-sensitive element 26 of the thermostat consists of a glass pressed into the main valve 25, which is pressed against the seat by a spring 24. The bypass valve 23 is installed in the holder and is supported by a spring resting against the bottom of the glass. The temperature at which the main valve starts to open is 87 ± 2 °C. When the coolant temperature is below the specified, the main valve closes the fluid outlet from the radiator, while the bypass valve is open and connects the fluid outlet from the engine to the inlet to the pump. If the temperature of the coolant rises, the solid filler of the temperature-sensitive element expands and, overcoming the resistance of the spring, moves the glass with the main valve upwards. The bypass valve, pressed by a spring, opens the passage of fluid from the engine to the water pump with the bottom of the glass. At coolant temperatures over 94°C, the main valve is fully open and coolant circulates through the radiator. At intermediate temperatures, coolant circulates through both the main valve and the bypass valve. temperature for engine operation.
Radiator and its mount . The radiator is made of aluminum tubes with aluminum washers pressed onto them. The ends of the tubes are flared in metal support plates and sealed with rubber seals. The side tanks of the radiator are plastic and tightly fixed to the support plates with folding antennae and sealed with rubber seals. A sensor for turning on the engine of the electric fan of the cooling system and a plug for draining the coolant are screwed into the right tank of the radiator. The left tank is molded together with three pipes for connecting hoses with parts of the cooling system. The tanks have three threaded bosses. The casing of the electric fan is bolted to these bosses through rubber shock-absorbing bushings. The radiator is installed in the front of the engine compartment on a transverse traverse. To fix the radiator on the traverse, there are two holes in which the radiator is fixed through rubber bushings (shock absorbers). In the upper part, the radiator is bolted through the electric fan casing to the radiator lining shelf.
