The starter is an integral part of the car that allows the car to start. Otherwise, you would have to constantly push the car to start. Unfortunately, like any other part, the starter fails sooner or later. Someone immediately runs to a car shop and buys a new one, but often this is a waste of money, because. the starter does not always wear out entirely, but partially. For example, most of the problems are a solenoid relay, which will not be difficult to replace, and save money. There is even a free relay repair option, you will need a sandpaper and a screwdriver. You disassemble the relay, clean the pennies, assemble and put it back. This method helps with oxidation - you cleaned them up and allowed the current to flow normally without interruption. In today's article, we will take a closer look at the procedure for disassembling and assembling the starter, talk about checking, and be sure to figure out how to clean contacts and prevent burning.
Note!
The following tools will help you make repairs: cap heads, a wrench (extension), screwdrivers, a set of wrenches, fine-grained sandpaper.
On most Russian front-wheel drive cars, the starter is located in the same way - it is inserted into the clutch housing and engages with the flywheel. The crankcase is located at the bottom of the car along with the component - the gearbox. A photo is attached below (top view of the car), the starter is indicated by the arrow - pay attention to the color.
When does a starter need repair?
In case of problems with starting the car:
- when turning the key, only clicks are heard, nothing else happens - the car does not start;
- the engine is reluctant to start (the key is turned, the engine is spinning, spinning and after 5-10 seconds it starts the car)
- a knock is heard in the car engine from turning the key, which means that the starter bushings are worn out and the shaft is slightly warped, the shaft does not normally enter the flywheel, but hits.
Note!
To check, you will need wires (you need a plus and a minus) and a battery (installed on a car is suitable). Watch the video at the link below:
If the starter is working as a result of the check, pay attention to the battery (required to charge), to the ignition switch, or rather the contact group of the lock (for details on removing and checking, see the article: “Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ”), Do not disregard the switching relay starter (do not confuse with a retractor relay, do not confuse). , For checking and replacing, see the manual: “Replacing the starter relay on a car”). We have listed the main components of the starter mechanism.
Starter repair for VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099
Note!
On cars of the Samara family, different starters were used depending on the time and year of their existence. The first one is marked “426.3708” (we are analyzing it in this article), the second one is “5712.3708”, and the third one is “29.3708”. The first and third starters are similar to each other and they are disassembled in almost the same way, they only have a collector and drive levers. The second starter is different: it is more compact, it consists of almost the same parts, but repairs by analogy with the 1st and 2nd ones may not succeed without understanding the principle of operation of this mechanism.
Disassembly
1) At the beginning of the operation, remove directly from the car, and the instructions prepared by us from the article will help you cope with the task without any problems: “Replacing the starter with a VAZ” - the process is described in detail.
Note!
Starters are removed identically regardless of the marking!
2) Take a wrench or a socket head with a knob and unscrew the nut of the stator winding output terminal (it is closer to the body and is indicated by a red arrow in the first photo below, and the former location is shown by a blue arrow). Then, remove the stator winding output terminal, then on the reverse side, turning the starter, unscrew the two screws securing the solenoid relay and pull. Carefully remove from the hole (photo 3) and unhook the end part (called the anchor and the red arrow is indicated) from the lever into which the anchor enters. The anchor may also not come out for you, because if it does not disengage from the lever, and you pull the relay, the relay will disconnect itself, and the anchor will remain inside. In such a situation, grab it with your hand and take it out, disengaging it. If the anchor still came out with the relay, then pull it with your hand and disconnect it. Remove the spring and O-ring (photo 4). In case of deformations and torn parts, this ring is replaced with a new one.
3) Find a piece of some pipe of a suitable diameter to knock the restrictive ring from the retainer. Attach the pipe to the restrictive ring (photo 1) and knock it down with hammer blows (the arrow in photo 2 indicates the knocked down one, and under it there is a retaining ring, indicated by a red arrow). Remove the retaining and restrictive rings by passing along the shaft (photo 3). Next, remove the protective cover of the shaft by unscrewing the two fastening screws with a screwdriver (photo 4).
4) Remove the retaining ring by prying it with a screwdriver or with sharp pliers, as shown in photo 1. Now you will find the washers you need to adjust, so set them aside immediately and do not lose them. Unscrew the two nuts securing the cover (the cover is with a blue arrow in photo 2, and the nuts are red) and remove it. Then, picking up a screwdriver, press the springs of both insulated brushes with it (one of the springs is indicated by an arrow and its visual pressing is shown in photo 3) and remove the insulated brushes from the brush holder. Remove the brush holder from the starter (photo 4).
Note!
There are 2 insulated brushes soldered to the terminals of the stator windings (indicated by the letter "A"), so two springs must be pressed and disconnected from them. Otherwise, you will simply tear off the brushes. There are also non-insulated brushes on the brush holders, marked with the letter "B".
5) Next, grasp the stator housing with your hand (photo 1 with a red pointer) and remove it. By hand, remove the lever stop (photo 2) of the plastic type (be careful - rather fragile). Remove the anchor along the cover by pulling it out by hand as in photo 3. Remove the intermediate support from the shaft (photo 4) by pulling it.
6) Together with the anchor, the starter drive was removed - put it aside and take the drive separately. Remove the upper retaining ring (photo 1) with pliers, then remove the Belleville washer (photo 2), thrust washer (see photo 3) and the clutch together with the lever (photo 4) from the drive. It remains to remove the thrust ring.
7) We proceed to the disassembly of the solenoid relay. If you are sure that you have it properly, then you should not disassemble it. However, in most cases, the problem lies precisely in it (the starter clicks). ,Unscrew at the beginning two screws (photo 1 with red arrows) and two nuts (with blue arrow). Take a soldering iron and disconnect both winding leads from the relay leads (otherwise do not remove the cover). Remove the cover (photo 3) and remove the contact plate (photo 4).
Note!
The bolts in photo 3 are called nickels, to take them out it is enough to unscrew them as in the bottom photo. The bolts and the plate should not have any oxidation, signs of rust and heavily ingrained dirt - in a word, they should be clean. If, after stripping the plate and bolts, there was no result, then the relay most likely needs to be replaced.
8) We disassemble the plate: using a screwdriver, pry off the spring and remove it (photo 1), use pliers to remove the small retaining ring (photo 2) and behind it everything else up to the insulating washer (photo 3). We remove the plate (photo 4) and all the details until one rod remains. The main thing is to remember the sequence of your actions and the order of the details. We recommend filming the process on video, then you will not get confused during the reverse installation.
Assembly
1. Assemble the relay by putting on the cover and soldering the winding leads to the contacts (photo 1). After soldering, lubricate the parts with engine oil in the places indicated by the arrows in the photo. Lubricate the bushings from photo number 3.
2. When you get to the installation of the cover and put it on, securing it with nuts, proceed to install the shims. The axial clearance at the starter armature shaft is selected by these washers (it should not be more than 0.5 mm, follow this and, if necessary, reduce or vice versa increase the number of adjusting washers). Continue assembling, and, having reached the installation of the plastic support (blue arrow in photo 3) on the lever (red), install with a ledge to the edge. Be sure to check that both studs pass through the insulating tubes (photo 4).
Note!
After setting the anchor, follow the tip - it should be directed down and log in for clutch with lever.
Troubleshooting starter parts
Note!
Troubleshooting is the popular name for checking parts for defects.
1. Clean the removed parts from adhering dirt and check the stator for operability with a 220-volt control (control light) or a megohmmeter. We connect the lamp contacts: one to the output of the stator winding (photo below), and the second to the housing. Is the light bulb on? - the insulation of the wiring is damaged. Follow this procedure for all outputs. If you are using a megger, then the resistance is at least 10 kOhm. A damaged winding must be replaced.
2. Let's move on to checking the anchor: inspect the anchor, first pay attention to the collector (photo 1). In the presence of dirt, scratches, various kinds of scratches - we clean it with a fine-grained sandpaper. And if you see that mica protrudes between the collector plates or it is very rough and the skin can not cope, then grind the collector on a lathe. Next, go to the armature shaft (photo 2), on it you will most likely find a yellow coating from the bearing. Sand and at the same time check the splines and pins (indicated by arrows), on which there should be no burrs, nicks, etc. Otherwise, the anchor must be replaced. Check the soldering of the armature winding leads to the collector plates (photo 3), everything should hold well and not peel off. The winding diameter at the ends should not exceed the diameter of the armature iron package. According to the principle described above, check the armature with a control: 1 contact is connected to the collector plate, and the other to the core. Is the lamp on? - the plates either hit the ground, or the winding closes, we change the anchor. See photo 4 for wiring diagram.
3. Rotate the drive gear by hand in both directions - it should rotate freely and without jamming in only one (clockwise) direction. If it rotates in both directions, change the drive. After checking the drive, put it in place (photo 2) and move along the shaft - without jamming and delays. Sand down any unevenness.
4. Inspect the sleeve in the clutch housing - it is obtained with a tap of a suitable diameter. We cut the thread and take it out. In photo 1, the location of the bushing.). It must be removed only in the presence of any kind of defects. Let's move on to checking the brush holder: the brushes, wearing out, lose height and if it is less than 12 mm, then this brush must be replaced (photo 2). Be sure to pay attention to the movement of the brushes and holders (photo 3) - they must firmly fasten the brushes. Check with a test lamp that the brushes are not shorted to ground. In photo 4, the connection diagram of the control.
5. And finally, let's check the retractor relay and how the springs press the brushes. Install the brush holder in place (photo 1) and fix the brushes with springs. Use a dynamometer or by touch determine the force with which the springs come off the brushes (it is necessary in the region of 0.9-1.1 kg). Connect an ohmmeter to the relay and measure the resistance: one contact to ground, and the second, first to the holding winding (see photo 2 and the yellow line, the device should output 0.725-0.795 Ohm), and then to the retracting winding (photo 2 and the red line, the device should show a value in the region of 0.52–0.59 Ohm). We carry out the check in heat (+15 to +25 ° С), otherwise the readings may vary.
Additional video
Quality tips and detailed information on disassembling the starter using the Bendix repair example in the video below, enjoy watching:
Note!
We attach a link to a video on cleaning nickels from oxidation:
Good afternoon, dear site visitors site. In this article, we will talk and analyze in detail the repair of the VAZ 2109 starter, as well as other models, we will not ignore.
The causes of a malfunction of this unit can be the most unpredictable, in which you can completely sort out the starter without eliminating the malfunction. Our task is to consider all types of malfunctions and not to miss even the simplest trifle, which may entail the re-disassembly of this unit.
We will focus on the starters VAZ 2109, 2107 and 2110.
First, let's talk about the winding stator, more precisely, how to check it for performance and what malfunctions can occur with it.
The stator windings are wound with copper wire in lacquer insulation and additionally the coils themselves are insulated with a special cloth impregnated with a special lacquer. You can read in detail about the operation of all starter nodes and their device.
If you dismantled the starter and see such a picture as in the photo below, it means that the stator windings have come to an end, they simply burned out.
This could have happened from an interturn short circuit in one of the stator coils. In this case, you can replace the stator coils with new ones. The replacement process is difficult for a simple driver and I would recommend buying a new stator, because it is very difficult for a person without special skills to do this job.
But if after removal everything looks fine, then you need to check the windings for a short to ground. This is done very simply. If there is no special device for checking resistance, then you can use a 220 volt light bulb. The switching principle is shown in the photo below.
Be careful because the voltage of 220 volts is very dangerous for life. With such a voltage, even the smallest short circuits will show themselves. This will be indicated by a flashing light. If the light turns on, it means that the stator windings are shorted to ground and they will face the same fate as in the photo above (burnt windings).
Geared starters use a permanent magnet stator instead of windings. The design is certainly good, but as always there is one thing, the workmanship. It is known that our auto construction does not shine with quality anyway, and therefore the magnets that are glued to the stator often fall off and cause a lot of trouble.
In the photo above, we see the consequences of when one magician came off and beat off all the others, the metal intermediate ring also completely collapsed and became unusable.
I've heard a lot of negative feedback from mechanics about magnets falling off. I would like the manufacturer to pay great attention to this problem, since I consider the design of the starter to be successful and one more plus, the dimensions are smaller.
You can glue the detached magnets back, the main thing is not to confuse the polarity, otherwise the anchor will rotate in the other direction.
The armature also has a winding and a contact collector, to which graphite brushes adjoin.
This is how the anchors look like, the top one belongs to a regular starter, and the bottom starter with a gearbox.
What can happen to the anchor.
The winding almost never burns out, there are rare cases when it closes to ground. Shorting can occur from the displacement of metal plates (anchor base).
What caused the shift? The displacement of the plates occurred for several reasons. First reason. A bent shaft, that is, a bent armature shaft, during rotation, the armature touches the stator. The second reason. Wear of the bearing bushings of the armature shaft, while the armature begins to hang out and gets on the stator. And the third reason may be that something fell off and damaged the anchor.
You can check the circuit in the same way as the stator.
If the light bulb lights up, then the anchor is scrapped.
When the starter is operated, the graphite brushes rub against the copper collector and leave a thin graphite deposit on the lamellae, which does not conduct electricity well. This can cause the starter to work poorly. Also, when the brushes wear out, the collector itself wears out.
If the wear is not significant, then it can be cleaned with fine sandpaper and then remove the copper interference from the lamellas. The photo above shows how the lamellas on the collector are worn, and the copper interference almost reaches the neighboring lamellas. This tightness can be cleaned with a thin hacksaw blade and followed by grinding with fine sandpaper.
But if the shells on the lamellas are large and you can’t fix them with sandpaper, then you need to grind it on a lathe.
You need to remove a thin layer and with a small feed, no matter what to pull the lamellas from their seats. After this operation, you need to process the collector with fine sandpaper.
It also happens that when the brushes break, one or more lamella breaks out
With such destruction, the lamella can be bent back into place and glued with glue. Then, after turning, we grind it with fine sandpaper. It should turn out something like this.
This repair does not guarantee long-term operation and, if funds allow, it is better to buy a new anchor.
Another malfunction may be the loss of contacts between the armature winding and the lamellas.
In places indicated by a green frame, oxidation may occur and contact will be lost. Such places can be calculated with a tester and soldered. The work is certainly not easy, but quite doable. If this is not done, then the starter will turn weakly and the load on it will increase, and this leads to a breakdown.
The next thing that our attention will fall on is brushes and a brush holder.
There are two types of brush arrangement, with radial pressure and face.
During the operation of the starter, the brushes wear out very slowly and it takes a lot of time to replace them, but with poor quality workmanship, wear can be faster. The permissible size of the brushes, at which they need to be replaced, is considered to be 12 millimeters, if less, then we change.
We also inspect, no matter what dangled, everything was screwed and riveted.
Having finished with the electrical part, we move on to the mechanical part of the starter.
The next opponent to consider will be the starter's bendix.
Checking this detail is as follows. Turning the gear with your fingers, the bendix should freely go into its working position, without jamming and distortions. Further, the gear should turn only in one direction (freely), but in the other it should turn along with the armature shaft. If the gear turns freely in both directions, or turns with effort in one direction and freely in the other, then the bendix is scrap metal.
I see no reason to repair this part, because the repair will not be durable, and you will need to disassemble the starter again, so it’s better to immediately replace the bendix with a serviceable or new one.
Next, I want to talk a little about the support bushings. When the starter is running, the support bushings slowly wear out, violating a certain gap between the stator and the armature. If worn out, they need to be replaced. You can read how to replace bushings.
And the last thing I want to talk about is the starter gearbox.
The gearbox is a pretty durable unit, if it weren’t for something that someone thought of installing a plastic outer gear of the gearbox on some starters. Using a plastic gear in such a heavily loaded place is a big mistake. It is this gear that fails.
The photo shows how the gear broke in several places.
After removing the gear, everything fell apart into many parts.
It is treated simply, you need to buy a new metal gear.
On this, perhaps, I will end this article. We examined in detail the main malfunctions of the starter, as well as methods for their elimination.
Until new posts.
There may be several reasons for this. The first step is to check the battery charge. After all, the most likely reason is precisely its poor charge, which depends on the operation of the vehicle's electrical systems and, especially, on the correct operation of the starter, we read:
Well, in order to determine the need to repair the VAZ 2106 starter, you need to know the possible causes of the breakdown.
Starter device VAZ 2106.
- front cover
- sealant
- overrunning clutch with drive gear
- drive lever
- partition
- tie rod
- starter relay
- shims
- armature shaft cover
- lock washer
- starter rear cover
- brush holder
- housing with stator
- starter anchor
- drive arm axle
- retaining ring
- sealing ring
- gear limit ring
The most common faults.
In general, the starter installed on the VAZ 2106 does not differ much from standard starter models. Therefore, their main problems are also almost the same. Here is a list of starter failures that motorists often have to deal with:
1. The solenoid relay and armature do not work when the starter is turned on.
- loosening of the tips, because the battery charge is at zero;
- short circuit in the relay winding or short circuit to ground,
- armature sticking in the relay,
- broken wire in the relay.
The solution is to strip the oxidized tips of the battery terminals or wires.
2. If you turn on the starter, the retractor relay will work properly, and the armature rotates very slowly or there is no rotation at all.
This may happen due to:
- almost discharged battery;
- possible wire break in the relay or break in the relay winding;
- short circuits in the collector, namely between its plates;
- oxidation of battery terminals or wires.
The solution is to check the wear of the brushes and the tightness of the bolts on the relay.
3. When the starter is running, the armature rotates, but does not turn the crankshaft.
In such a situation, you should check the buffer spring and the freewheel - it may slip or the lever to turn it on may be faulty.
4. After starting the car, the starter still continues to work.
In this case, you should see if the retractor relay or the drive lever is sticking, the relay contacts may have stuck together, check the operation of the return spring on the ignition switch and see if the starter itself is warped.
5. Strong starter noise.
The cause of such noise may be the breakage of the teeth on the gear and the heavy wear of the bushings. Check the starter mount itself.
Starter repair VAZ 2106, instructions.
To begin with, the retractor starter must be removed, cleaned of all kinds of contaminants, disassembled and washed all mechanisms. After washing, the parts must be dried well. After that, we begin to carry out a detailed inspection and measurements.
Armed with emery, we eliminate all the teases on the moving mechanisms of the starter. If wear can still be removed, then use the installation of gaskets or knurling. Although it is better, of course, to replace worn parts.
We replace bad insulation and collectors. If the collector plates are worn out, then it should also be replaced, if not, then you can not touch it.
If there is damage on the thread, it can be patched up by installing a screw driver or simply make a new thread.
We check the starter bushings VAZ 2106 for wear and damage. We do this by measuring the gap of the roller, which should not be more than 0.2 millimeters.
The winding should also be checked. To do this, we disassemble the starter housing and remove the screws with the terminals of the tips. We remove the coils, dry them well and impregnate them with insulating varnish. All damaged insulation must be replaced with new one. If we find oxidized contacts, we clean them.
After a complete inspection and repair of the starter VAZ 2106 , the latter should be assembled in reverse order. I also recommend that you read my article with the title: "".
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- ← Previous
VAZ starter repair in Moscow - prices
- 750r C\U, REPAIR FROM 800 TO 3000r
- We repair foreign cars. Zhiguli are repairing Kirov 30.
- We do not repair domestic starters.
replacement - 1500 r. - Good afternoon. It's easier to install a new starter.
VAZ 2111 2003, repair of starters
Alexander: the planetary collapsed
- starter replacement from 1500 rub
- Phone for appointment and agreement on repairs
VAZ Oka 2005, repair of starters
Roman: At the factory, the starter first cracks, then there is no spark
- Initial diagnostics 800 rubles
- Hello! Thank you for contacting your Service. Write the phone number where our specialist can contact you or call us back at the number.
- Roman: How much will a Bendix repair cost?
- The cost of primary diagnostics is 500 rubles, which will show the cause of the malfunction.
- Come, let's do it.
Call ahead. - Roman: What's the price? Bendix repair
- The master must first look, then we will decide on the price.
- diagnostics required
-
Andrei: The starter took over, but now it doesn’t turn at all and doesn’t even click
- Good day, Andrey!
An initial diagnosis is required, the cost is 650 rubles.
Registration is possible on 14.01 at 12:00.
In addition, we will diagnose your car according to 40 parameters completely free of charge (the usual cost is 1200 rubles). Please leave your phone number for communication or call us, specifying that you previously wrote to us on the AutoPoint website. - Starter Replacement
- Good day, Andrey!
VAZ 2114 2006, repair of starters
Alexander: diagnostics and urgent repair issues 13.2-13.4 v without load
- Sadovaya 3 B
- Alexander: Approximate cost of repair?
- Approximately 7 thousand
- Alexander: thanks
VAZ 2107 2000, repair of starters
Maria: We need to change the starter, preferably today
- Bring in and change the starter bring your own out of stock
- Bring the starter and change it, we don't have it in stock.
- tomorrow from 9.00 price 900 rubles
- Starter replacement 1000 rubles.
VAZ 2110 2006, repair of starters
Vitaliy: The car won't start, but the dashboard is on.
- Good day to you. And where is your car?
- check the battery for a start, there may be many more problems, but this is later, and there is little information from you
VAZ 2104 1997, repair of starters
Dmitry: When the ignition key is turned, the retractor relay is activated (1 click under the hood), the lighting in the cabin shows that there is a load and nothing else happens. The battery is working, after replacing the retractor, the result has not changed. My phone
- 3000 rubles
- Car service "Autoservice Center": Pre-registration by phone 65-66-60
- Come and see beforehand the bushings on the starter to change or a new starter after troubleshooting, say
- Good morning. Unfortunately, we cannot help you today. Contact on the 8th. Sorry for the inconvenience
VAZ 2110 2004, repair of starters
Victor: Good evening, how much will it take to fix the starter
- Bosch Auto Service H2O-auto Alekseevskaya: Dear Victor!
Thank you very much for your submission.
We will be happy to advise you by phone: daily from 9.00 to 21.00 - Good evening!
We do not repair starters, there is no such equipment.
Best regards, AutoGERMES group of companies! - We do not repair starters. replacement only. replacement 1500 rub
- It's cheaper to buy a new one on a Zhiguli
- Bosch Auto Service H2O-auto Alekseevskaya: Dear Victor!
VAZ Kalina 2013, repair of starters
Sergey: Good afternoon! I start the car, all the instruments are on, the high beams are also on, but the car does not make any sounds at all. I would like to know how much the repairs will cost. I live in Odintsovo st. Mozhayskoe highway 86 My phone
- Diagnostics 1500 rubles
- Unfortunately, the departure of an auto electrician to the place is not available. We make all repairs at the workplace at 3b Sadovaya St.
- If the car does not start, the reason may be in the ignition coil or directly in the starter, you need to bring the car to us to determine the cause, or we can send an employee to you.
- Sergey: How much does it cost to visit an employee?
- / car center autolike, Denis Davydov street 17
VAZ 2112 2012, repair of starters
Alexey: starter repair. bulkhead with your spare parts
- Please call Alexander. Let's discuss your starter in detail
VAZ 2112 2008, repair of starters
Ruslan: Hello. The starter sometimes feels like it's hard for him to turn. and sometimes it's like he's idling
- Good afternoon
Can you help the client or not? - Yes
Spare parts / consumables in stock, to order or bring your own? – on order (out of stock), you can use your own spare parts
How much will labor and parts cost? - diagnostics 1800.00, starter replacement 2500.00 rubles, starter 7000.00 rubles.
What is the guarantee? – 30 days labor warranty, 30 days spare parts
Do I need to make an appointment or can I come anytime? - need to sign up
You can find out detailed information and sign up for the technical center by phone Best regards, AutoGERMES group of companies! - we can help you
- come and see.
- Good afternoon. Starter replacement 1500 rub
- Hello! Most likely your relay is not working.
- Come and have a look, most likely you have a problem with the mass
- Let's take a look.
- Good afternoon
VAZ 2107 2005, repair of starters
Vladimir: When the starter is turned on, clicks of the solenoid relay are heard, but the starter does not turn. When the power contacts are closed to a direct line, the starter starts spinning. After that, it can work several times. Then it stops working again.
tel.- Vladimir: So what about the starter??? How much will the repair cost. Or should I put in a new one?
- Auto-response from the network of technical centers "Optimum Auto"
25% - discount for work immediately, at the first visit!
Only for you the lowest prices for work:
Oil change - 600 rubles. taking into account your discount 450 rub.
Suspension diagnostics and wheel alignment check - free of charge!
Promotion! Wheel alignment adjustment for 990 rubles! (regular price 1920 rubles).
Diagnostics of the brake system - 720 rubles. taking into account your discount 540 rub.
Replacing the front brake pads - 840 rubles. taking into account your discount 630 rub.
Reading fault codes using a diagnostic scanner - 600 rubles. with your discount 450 rubles!
You can get prompt advice and find out the cost of other works by tel. . Call!"Optimum Auto" is a network of modern technical centers providing services for post-warranty maintenance of cars from the world's leading manufacturers.
Equipping our stations with the most modern diagnostic and repair equipment and 20 years of experience working with cars allows us to carry out both ordinary maintenance and complex repairs of components and assemblies at the dealer level, electrical work, tire fitting, wheel alignment, professional dry cleaning, bodywork and painting work.
An online spare parts store with a large selection of goods in stock and on order is at the service of car owners. When buying spare parts through the online store, you are provided with a 20% discount on the installation of the part in the Optimum Auto network of auto service centers.
We are waiting for you in our technical centers "Optimum Auto" at the following addresses:"Kashirsky": 26 km of the Moscow Ring Road, outer side
"Altufievsky": st. Ilimskaya, 1B
"Schelkovskaya": Shchyolkovskoe sh. 100, bldg. 106
Paveletsky: 2nd Paveletsky pr-d, 7A
tel. - Vladimir: Turn off the useless machine and work with clients of a living person, this will be more useful for the client and more profitable for you. Perhaps someone will come to repair. If the answer is specific and not advertising.
- Vladimir!
Our Autoresponder is definitely not perfect. But this is a forced measure.
In the future, the answers will be specific.
The phone number for reference is indicated in the text: . Call!Best regards, Optimum Auto
- retractor replacement
- Vladimir: The price of the question???
- 1.5r
..................... - Vladimir: Work? Or with spare parts?
- Job
cost of spare parts in the store
how old is the starter?
- Vladimir: No idea. Machine 2005 I'm in my second year. Judging by the fact that there is no one bolt in the starter mount, it was removed or changed for some reason.
- this bolt is hard to remove, so some do not install it!
- Good afternoon, dear Vladimir!
change the starter, as repairing it will come out like a new starter. Starter replacement in our service 1200r. - Vladimir: Thanks for the quick response.
- Dear Vladimir!
Call, we advise for free - Vladimir: Are there starters available? When can you change?
VAZ 2112 2006, repair of starters
Andrey: The starter crunches when starting the engine, when everything is running, everything is ok! How much will you charge for repairs
As you know, the starter is one of the most important parts of the car. A malfunction of this element is easily detected, even by inexperienced drivers.
Such repairs can be done on your own, you just have to have the instructions at hand, which will be given below. In this article, we will consider the starter of the popular car of the golden youth of the 90s Vaz 2109.
This car became the ancestor of a large number of cars.
But as a result of operation, this model began to crumble exactly like the previous Lada. Details began to fail again, as in the previous Zhiguli.
The starter, which was the main part of the starting system, suffered especially, and was often subjected to heavy loads, especially in the winter season.
How to repair a starter with your own hands
Repairing a starter VAZ 2109 is not particularly difficult for an experienced driver who has managed to get acquainted with this part in old models of the classic Zhiguli. This part is quite simple in its design, like most cars of this family.
The item consists of:
- DC electric motor, which has 4 poles, endowed with electromagnetic inclusion;
- there are also freewheels;
- traction relay.
Starter malfunctions
Malfunctions of this part are easy to distinguish. The overall design of the “nine” starter has not undergone absolutely any changes, although the developers have upgraded some elements.
So:
- The main difference from previous starter models is the shaft sleeve, which is no longer installed in the starter, but in the clutch system. And this element is often forgotten when carrying out repairs, people who have not received special technical education and have not studied the "nine" scheme. To replace the starter bushing with a VAZ 2109, you need to have some skills. If you have not done this work before, then you can find yourself face to face with various difficulties.
- Another malfunction that I would like to highlight is the VAZ 2109 starter retractor relay. This part also becomes the culprit for the malfunction of the “nine” starter quite often.
Its breakdown can be considered an empty multiple operation, not holding the gear in the required engagement.
Otherwise, the defects associated with the starter modification of the VAZ 2109 are as follows:
- the starter shaft does not rotate or does it very slowly;
- the gear slips, this happens when the engagement with the flywheel crown is poor, although the shaft rotates;
- during operation, the starter makes tapping or an uncharacteristic sound.
Noticing one of the above malfunctions, you must immediately proceed to repair. If you do not do this work right away, then you run the risk of permanently damaging the part and not being able to repair it.
Dismantling
Before troubleshooting, it is worth looking at battery performance. The symptoms of a weak battery are often similar to a bad starter.
You should also check the following type of communication: battery / ignition switch / starter / traction relay. Removing the starter is not so difficult.
For this you need:
- remove the terminals from the battery;
- disassemble the engine crankcase protection;
- disconnect the wiring terminals;
- unscrew the nuts securing the starter to the crankcase (there are three of them).
Attention: During the dismantling process, it is necessary to pay special attention to such parts of the starter as the armature, the condition of the winding, gear defects, cleanliness of contacts and much more.
Direct repair
You should not think about the fact that before removing the starter, it is necessary to raise the VAZ 2109 car to the inspection hole. We begin to repair the starter after it has been completely removed.
So let's start:
- we check the relay by applying a voltage of 12 V to the output, do not forget that the minus should be closed to the case;
- We connect the ohmmeter at the same time with this procedure to the contact bolts (if the relay is working normally, the clutch should move back into the hole when current is received, and close the bolts - if this does not happen, then the relay should be replaced).
- checking the brushes
- the starter cover is removed, after which the screw is unscrewed, fixing the fastening of all wires;
- the spring is removed;
- the brush is removed (as a rule, its minimum height should be 12 mm - otherwise, this means its erasure and mandatory replacement).
We continue to work with the VAZ 2109. The starter, which is repaired by oneself, must be carefully examined.
At this stage, you can even arm yourself with a magnifying glass in order to see everything better.
Let's move on to the next step:
- we check the winding of the starter itself (as mentioned above, this device does not particularly differ from other models of the VAZ 2109, and do-it-yourself repair of the starter must be done skillfully and know all the basics of the circuit);
- we take an ohmmeter and check for a short circuit between the turns and on the case;
- we inspect the collector and other windings (for this, it is necessary to carefully remove the ring so that it does not fly off and pull it out);
- remove the washer from the axle;
- unscrew a few bolts;
- we disconnect the tubes that serve to isolate the coupling bolts and pull them out;
- carefully inspect the collector and winding (they should not have soot or surf);
- With sandpaper we wipe minor changes on the surface.
On the VAZ 2109, do-it-yourself starter repair also involves a thorough check of the armature winding.
As you know, the starter anchor is a core and a shaft. Between them, a winding is laid, which should be checked. The easiest way to check it for an interturn circuit is on a special stand.
For this:
- we take a control lamp for 220 W;
- we check the insulation for rupture, determine the runout of the shaft (which should be 0.08 mm, the insulation resistance should be at least 10 kOhm;
- we connect the armature collector with one wire with a current of 220 V;
- we connect the second wire through a 220 W 100 W lamp to the power case (if the lamp lights up, then there is a breakdown in the anchor and it needs to be replaced.
On a VAZ 21099 car, repairing a starter, where the anchor is in order, also involves inspecting and checking the collector.
A few important tips:
- if burnt plates are found on the collector in two places, then the coil is broken;
- if the plates are blue, then a turn circuit has occurred (this is rare, but it does occur):
- an interturn short circuit is found in the visible sections of the armature or busbar wire (usually the turns are crumpled or bent);
- you can eliminate the circuit and fix the wrinkling of the tires by checking for the presence of foreign bodies;
- if the short circuit is not found, it remains only to rewind the anchor.
On a VAZ 21093 car, starter repair, as well as on VAZ 21099 and 2109, after checking the windings, involves inspecting the clutches and gears.
To do this, we perform operations of the following type:
- remove the washer from the anchor axis;
- we take out the anchor assembly with the drive;
- remove the clutch drive lever;
- we begin to rotate the gear (in this case, there should not be any chips and notches, if any, it is advisable to replace the device).
Video, of course, can help in this matter, but first of all, you should understand what you are doing and how it works.
Attention: When assembling the starter in reverse order, it is advisable to check its shell. All plastic parts must be coated with lithol (pictured below), even if in good condition.
The instruction also recommends that all parts that rub should be lubricated with engine oil for prevention.
Having learned how to repair a starter with our own hands, we get a unique opportunity not only to repair our favorite car with high quality, but also to really save money. After all, the price of a new starter is not cheap in stores, and finding a good one is not always possible.
