Answer: Help set TDCAlso try this:
When changing the timing belt, first, without removing the old belt, set the engine to the TDC-1 position so that, if possible, do not knock down the marks at all. If you do everything carefully, then the marks will not scatter - then, having installed a new belt, they should not be brought together from the very beginning, but by scrolling the KV (crankshaft) 2 times, check. NB! The engine can only be rotated using the KV sprocket bolt! A socket head is used for 19, it is more convenient with a ratchet.
So, TDC-1 can be found in any of 3 ways: 1) Align the notch on the pulley groove (it should look almost vertically up) with the arrow (stamped on the lower belt casing above this pulley and points down).
2) Align the "0" mark on the flywheel with the tooth in the window on the gearbox bell at the top.
3) Unscrew the 1st force, take some straight thin metal rod (you can use a long thin screwdriver), lower it into the hole and, resting against the piston and turning the engine, catch the upper piston lifting point. This method is good only as a very redundant one, but it was worth mentioning it in fairness.
Each of these methods can check the correctness of the actions performed by another method.
For any of the three described methods: immediately check the coincidence of the mark on the PB sprocket (camshaft). It happens behind the sprocket, then it must be combined with the left upper edge of the valve cover gasket (in the direction of movement). It happens that the label is in front and is marked "OT", it must also be combined with the arrow on the crescent-shaped plastic casing, it stands directly behind the PB asterisk and sits on the first two valve cover studs. If this PB mark has gone 180 degrees, you need to scroll the KV for another 1 turn, then all the marks should line up with their marks (or be close to it). The position of the intermediate shaft is important only for the correct setting of the initial ignition timing.
Next, we remove the KV pulley, on which 4 bolts were already loosened from the very beginning with the engine stopped, the lower belt cover too (to do this, you must also first pull off the pump pulley, and its bolts can be loosened if you first, at the very beginning of work, tighten the belt strongly generator and stop the engine - this is where everything should start). After pulling off 3 bolts of the pump pulley, the alternator belt loosens and is completely removed.Release the tensioner roller, remove it from the stud (it must be replaced simultaneously with the belt), carefully tighten the old belt, change the roller, put on a new belt, tighten it so that in the area between the PB sprockets and the intermediate shaft (approximately opposite the roller) it (belt) STILL could be twisted no more than 90 degrees, using some effort of the thumb and forefinger.
Keeping the position of the KV in TDC-1, check the PB mark, if it doesn’t match a little, loosen the roller and rearrange the belt, avoiding its sagging between the sprockets of the PB and the industrial shaft, as well as the KV and the industrial shaft. You tighten it again, turn the KV bolt 2 turns, check the marks again. Now everything should be perfect.
But it happens that when the mark on the KV sprocket is set, it can be set on the RV only by combining half a tooth to the right or left. It's not scary, only in the end the car can be a little blunt. If this happened, it is necessary, having set the KV mark, to rearrange the belt on the RV by 1 tooth in the other direction from the mark, i.e. as a result, he will move half a tooth to the other side.
Renault Megane 2. Increased fuel consumption
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Clogged air filter element | Check the condition of the air filter element | Blow out or replace the air filter element |
| Leakage of the power system | Gasoline smell, fuel leaks | Check the tightness of the connections of the fuel system elements; if a malfunction is found, replace the corresponding components |
| Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Candles are checked on a special stand at the service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs |
| Throttle Actuator Malfunction | Check the stroke of the “gas” pedal, the gap in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
| Faulty idle speed controller or its circuits | Substitute a known-good regulator. | |
| Throttle not fully closing | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the housing is visible through the light | Replace Throttle Assembly |
| Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) | Replace failed regulator |
| Nozzle leakage | Check injectors | Replace faulty injectors |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor or circuit | Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Substitute a known-good ECU to test. | Replace faulty ECU, repair damaged electrical circuits |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): gaps in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts |
| Faulty throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits | Check sensors and their circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (sensors) |
| Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged exhaust system components |
| Malfunctions of the running gear and brake system | Check chassis components and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment, replace the faulty parts of the chassis, repair the brake system |
Reasons for high fuel consumption
There are several typical mistakes that inexperienced drivers make, leading to excessive fuel consumption. Remember that the excess amount of gasoline or diesel fuel will be consumed when:
The operation of the air conditioner or climate control system. The operation of these devices is associated with the operation of the compressor. Indeed, to rotate the pump pulley, energy is needed, which is taken from the rotating crankshaft. And it requires additional fuel.
The operation of the heating system. This applies not only to the operation of the "stove", but also to the heating of seats, windows and mirrors (in cars where these options are provided). The logic here is similar to the situation described above.
Sharp acceleration. If you like to pull away hard at traffic lights or other places, then be prepared for the fact that your car will use more fuel than usual. This is due to the fact that any transient process (in this case, setting the car in motion) is associated with increased energy consumption. And the sharper it is, the more energy is needed. Therefore, try to move smoothly. So you not only save fuel, but also save tires, clutch and powertrain components.
Engine operation at high speeds. Try not to overdo it. This will not only save fuel for your car, but will also have a positive effect on the operation of the engine as a whole.
Use of poor quality fuel. Try to refuel at proven gas stations and fill the tank with the brand of fuel recommended by the automaker. After all, bad fuel burns worse, provides insufficient energy and requires additional fuel costs.
Technical reasons for the increase in fuel consumption
First, let's deal with the technical problems that contribute to an increase in gasoline consumption in a car. Let's find out the most common causes associated with the engine and other elements, due to which the consumption increases.
Engine wear
Usually occurs due to the high mileage of the car or its improper operation. Some points related to the operation of the engine:
The temperature of the coolant (coolant) is lower than calculated;
- wear of the cylinder-piston group;
- wear of the crank mechanism;
- wear of the gas distribution mechanism and unadjusted valve clearances.
Clutch wear
When the driver needs to keep high speeds in order to move off and shift to a higher gear, this directly affects fuel consumption. In this case, replacing the clutch will help.
One of the causes of increased fuel consumption is the wear of the clutch disc. The situation here is quite simple. The engine consumes more fuel during starting than at constant speed. This fact is present even with a good clutch. If the disk or other parts of the system are faulty, then it turns out that the fuel is consumed, and the car stands still. The more often the car starts off, the greater the excess fuel consumption takes place.
In critical cases, a similar situation can occur even when driving in constant mode. That is, when the clutch disc does not provide synchronous rotation of the engine and gearbox. This situation, although rare, can happen in the most "neglected" cases.
Diagnosing clutch wear is fairly simple. To do this, you need to put the car on the handbrake, turn on fifth or fourth gear (depending on the gearbox, that is, the highest) and try to move off. If at the same time you did not turn off the engine with gas, this means that the clutch needs to be repaired or completely changed.
Ignition set incorrectly
An incorrectly set ignition is also the cause of increased fuel consumption. In particular, if the engine "troits", then gasoline from an idle cylinder is thrown directly into the exhaust system. This leads not only to excessive fuel consumption, but also to increased wear of the catalyst.
If the ignition is simply set incorrectly, then a situation arises when the fuel does not completely burn out. That is, a spark occurs before the fuel mixture appears in the cylinder in full, or after. In any case, this leads to its incomplete combustion. And this automatically means that the fuel is wasted.
Therefore, always monitor the condition of the ignition system. The amount of fuel consumed directly depends on this. In addition, an incorrectly set ignition system can cause problems when starting the engine.
Tire wear
If the tires are worn out enough or the pressure in them is less than normal, then this will also lead to the fact that the car will start to “eat” more than it should. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the tires, and regularly check the tire pressure.
Low-profile tires with a wide tread create increased resistance and, accordingly, increased fuel consumption.
Brake system malfunctions
They are different, consider those that lead to incomplete unclenching of the calipers when the so-called “wedging” occurs. If the caliper is not fully unclenched, then over time, not only the brake pads, but also the discs become unusable. Due to excessive friction and resistance, fuel consumption naturally increases.
Broken spark plugs
Through unsuitable candles, the car does not work correctly, as a result - an additional load on the engine. This leads not only to the fact that there is a large fuel consumption, but also to a general deterioration in performance. To avoid, it is necessary to check the candles.
Such a check includes examining the color of soot, measuring the electrode gap, checking the resistor for breakdown. It is also worth paying attention to the junction of the white insulator to the threaded part of the candle - a red coating is unacceptable.
Clogged injectors or carburetor
Clogged injectors are one of the most common causes of wasted fuel. They clog due to natural causes. These are the use of low-quality gasoline, the untimely replacement of the fuel filter, the ingress of dirt into the engine compartment, and so on.
With clogged nozzles, a violation of the shape of the fuel spray jet in the combustion chamber occurs. Because of this, the formation of the fuel mixture is disrupted. That is, more gasoline is used for this process than is necessary under normal conditions.
In some cases, due to clogged injectors, the engine may start to “troit”. This is expressed in a decrease in the dynamic characteristics of the car. It is also possible to run the engine for a long time at high speeds, even at idle. This in itself leads to an increase in fuel consumption.
Similar reasoning is valid for cars with a carburetor engine. When the carburetor is clogged, the same situation arises with excessive consumption of gasoline and a drop in dynamic performance.
Therefore, always monitor the condition of the fuel system, in particular, the injectors on the injection engine and the carburetor on the carburetor. Their clogging is a direct cause of excessive fuel consumption.
Low-octane fuel also has a great effect on consumption (for a low price and poor quality, it comes down to quantity).
Breakage of the lambda probe or DMRV
The failure of the oxygen sensor (lambda probe) can also lead to a significant waste of fuel. Its task is to control the amount of oxygen that goes into the fuel mixture. Therefore, if this sensor is faulty, the mixture will not be created correctly, and this will lead to excessive fuel consumption.
The lambda probe is quite fragile. There are a number of reasons why it might fail. Among them:
Depressurization of its body and penetration into its exhaust gases;
- overheating of the sensor (this may be caused by incorrect operation of the ignition system);
- natural aging and wear;
-problems with the car's electrical network;
- mechanical damage to the sensor.
Similar reasoning is also valid in relation to the mass air flow sensor (DMRV). It is designed to regulate the level of air supply to the engine cylinders. Sensor failures are easy to identify. As a rule, in this case, the engine starts to work unstably, especially at idle (very high or low “jumping” speed), loss of dynamic characteristics (the car accelerates poorly). The mass air flow sensor is beyond repair. It can only be replaced, although cleaning it can temporarily fix the situation.
Clogged air filter
The recommended replacement interval is every 15,000 km. Timely replacement of the air filter is required, because if it is clogged and you ignored it, then be prepared for the car to have a good appetite.
The flow rate is also affected by the use of air filter elements with heavy fabric pre-cleaners, since, as with a clogged filter, air resistance increases. Lightweight filter elements are recommended to minimize airflow resistance.
7. Install the rear powertrain mount in the reverse order of removal.
_Note
Pay attention to the marking of the support. Get a new support with the same marking.
SETTING THE PISTON OF THE FIRST CYLINDER TO THE TDC POSITION OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE
The piston of the 1st cylinder is set to the top dead center (TDC) position of the compression stroke so that when carrying out work related to the removal of the camshaft drive belt, the valve timing is not disturbed. If the valve timing is disturbed, the engine will not work normally.
To accurately set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke, two special devices are needed to fix the crankshaft and camshafts in a certain position.
You will need: special tools for fixing the crankshaft and camshafts, a “10” socket wrench, ring wrenches or “8”, “13” socket heads, an “18” key.
1. Remove the decorative engine cover.
2. Disconnect a wire from the minus plug of the storage battery.
3. Remove the cylinder head cover (see "Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket", page 103).
4. Remove the right front wheel (see "Changing a wheel", page 58).
5. Remove the engine mudguards (see "Removing and installing engine mudguards", p. 99).
6. Remove the right front fender liner (see "Removing and installing wheel mudguards and fender liner", p. 267).
7. Turn on the neutral gear in the gearbox.
8. Turn the engine crankshaft by the bolt of its pulley so that the hole in the crankshaft pulley does not reach the threaded hole in the timing cover by approximately 45 °, and the valve cams of the 1st cylinder are directed upwards.
9. Loosen...
10. ... and remove the plug located in the front of the cylinder block on the right.
11. Screw in the fixing bolt.
12. Carefully turn the crankshaft by the bolt securing its pulley until the shaft stops with the fixing rod.
Note
This is how the M10x1.5 fixture looks like for setting the crankshaft to the TDC position of the compression stroke.
13. On engines 1.8 and 2.0 L R4 Duratec-HE
16V screw the MBx18 bolt through the hole on the crankshaft pulley into the threaded hole of the timing gear drive cover, thereby fixing the crankshaft from turning.
14. Install the fixing plate in the special grooves at the rear of the camshafts.
15. On the engine 1.6L R4 16V Duratec Ti-VCT (variable valve timing) install the tool so that the marks on its branches are at the top, and the mark in the form of a line should be on the side of the exhaust camshaft, and the mark in the form of a dot should be on the side of the intake shaft.
If the device was installed without difficulty, the piston of the 1st cylinder is at the TDC of the compression stroke and the initial setting of the valve timing is correct. If it was not possible to install the device (the valve timing is shifted), remove the timing belt, install the fixing device and put on the belt correctly (see "Replacing the timing belt on a 1.6 l R4 16V Duratec Ti-VCT engine", p. 86 ) or replace the timing chain (depending on engine type).
16. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.
REMOVAL, FAULT AND INSTALLATION OF THE FLYWHEEL
The flywheel is removed to replace the crankshaft rear oil seal, to replace it if the gear rim is damaged, and to grind the surface for the clutch disc.
See also:
1. Top dead center (TDC) is the highest point of the piston stroke in its cylinder. In 4-stroke engines, during the rotation of the crankshaft, each of the pistons reaches this position twice during one operating cycle: once at the end of the compression stroke and the second at the end of the exhaust stroke. Determining the TDC position of the piston at the end of the compression stroke (usually the first cylinder) is important for many subsequent work, for example, to replace the toothed belt, check the valve timing and replace the cylinder head gasket. Sometimes the TDC of the compression stroke is also called the ignition timing.
Note: Cylinder numbers are counted from 1 to 4. The first cylinder is on the accessory/timing side.
2. This section most fully describes the procedure for setting the TDC of the first cylinder of the 1.6L Z16XEP engine. For other engines, only the features of setting the TDC are given. When carrying out the work, some special tools and devices from Opel will be required, make sure in advance that all the necessary accessories are available and at hand.
3. To bring the piston of the first cylinder to TDC, turn the crankshaft evenly and slowly so that the TDC marks match. Depending on the conditions, cranking the engine crankshaft can be performed in the following ways:
- Hang and place on stands the front of the car. Engage 5th gear - when turning one of the suspended wheels, the engine crankshaft will turn (models with manual transmission). Use an assistant to turn the wheel when making adjustments.
- If you don't have jacking tools handy, choose a flat, large enough area and engage 5th gear. When moving the car by pushing, the crankshaft will also rotate (models with manual transmission).
- In stationary conditions, the crankshaft is rotated using a ratchet and a head change, which is installed on the central bolt of the crankshaft pulley, while the neutral gear must be engaged and the parking brake cocked. The crankshaft should be turned clockwise (when viewed from the timing drive side).
Z16XEP engine
4. Remove the air cleaner ().
5. Remove the top cover of the toothed belt / timing drive (see illustration), for which loosen the 2 fixing bolts, disconnect the drive cover from the casing and then slightly pull it upwards by the lug (arrow).
6. Remove the right engine boot ().
7. Turn the crankshaft pulley in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) so that the marks on the pulley and the casing match (ref. illustration 6.7a) - while the marks on the gear wheels of the camshafts (ref. illustration 6.7b see ) should be opposite each other. Now the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke.
Note: If the marks are on the outer sides of the timing wheels. turn the crankshaft one more turn.
If the timing pulley marks do not match, it is necessary to adjust the distribution phases, for which remove the toothed belt () - it is recommended to contact the Opel campaign service station.
8. After completing the test, reinstall the removed components. Installation is in the reverse order. Before installing the upper timing cover, check its integrity and wipe it thoroughly inside and out.
9. If, in addition to checking the valve timing, setting the TDC is required for other work on the engine, you must first disconnect the negative battery cable and, after removing the top cover of the toothed belt, remove the multi-ribbed drive belt (), and fix the camshaft gears with special devices (see resist. illustration).
Z18XE engine
10. Remove the engine top cover ().
11. Remove the air cleaner ().
12. Remove the top cover of a gear belt (see sopr. an illustration) for what release 3 fixing bolts.
13. Turn the crankshaft pulley in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) so that the marks on the pulley and the engine block match (see illustration) - the marks on the gear wheels of the camshafts must also match. Now the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. At the Opel service station, for a more accurate determination of the TDC position, a KM-852 fixture is installed between the gears of the camshafts.
If the marks of the timing gears do not match, it is necessary to adjust the distribution phases, for which it is necessary to remove the toothed belt ().
14. At the end of the test, reinstall the removed components. Installation is in the reverse order.
Engines Z20LE(L/R/H)
15. Remove the air cleaner ().
16. Remove the top cover of a gear belt (see sopr. an illustration) for what turn out 2 fixing bolts.
17. Turn a cranked shaft so. so that the marks (2) match (see illustration), while the marks of the camshafts must match the marks (1) on the timing case.
Note: If the camshaft marks are on the outer sides of the gears, turn the crankshaft one more turn.
If the camshaft marks do not match, the valve timing is adjusted, for which it is necessary to remove the toothed belt ().
18. At the end of the check, reinstall all removed components.
Z14XEP engine
19. Checking and adjusting the valve timing is a very time-consuming operation and can only be performed using a special tool from Opel KM-952, KM-953 and KM-954.
Examination
20. Remove the air cleaner ().
21. Remove the ignition module ()
22. Disconnect gauges and bringing electroconducting (see sopr. an illustration) from a cover of a head of the block of cylinders.
6.22 Disconnecting the sensors from the cylinder head cover (Z14XEP engine)
1 Camshaft sensor
2 Air flow sensor
3 Engine oil pressure sensor
4 Coolant temperature sensor
5 Wiring box
23. Disconnect 2 hoses of the crankcase ventilation system.
24. Turn out 13 bolts of fastening and remove a cover of a head of the block of cylinders, remove the remains of an old laying of a cover and clear interfaced surfaces.
25. Remove the right engine boot ().
26. Turn out the bolt closing an adjusting aperture of a cranked shaft (see sopr. an illustration) and lower the car.
6.26 Setting TDC on the Z14XEP engine
1 Crankshaft adjusting hole bolt
2 Installed fixture KM-952
3 Mark on the timing cover
4 Mark on the crankshaft pulley
27. Install the KM-952 tool in the hole (see illustration 6.26), and slowly and smoothly turn the crankshaft until the tool engages with the shaft (fixes the shaft) - the marks on the crankshaft pulley and on the timing cover must match. , moreover, the timing cams above the first cylinder (see illustration) should look in opposite directions from the middle of the engine - if this position is not observed, turn the crankshaft another 1 turn.
28. Install in the grooves of the camshafts (from the side of the flywheel) a special tool KM-953 (see illustration) - the protrusions of the tool should enter the grooves to the greatest possible depth. If it is not possible to install the device, it is necessary to adjust the valve timing (see below).
29. Install the KM-954 special tool (see illustration) so that the protrusion of the tool gets into the groove of the camshaft sensor rotor. If the protrusion and recess do not match, adjust the valve timing (see below).
Adjustment
30. Unlike models with a timing belt drive, the valve timing on this engine can be adjusted without removing the drive cover and the chain itself.
31. At the end of the check, remove the KM-953 and 954 fixtures from the engine.
Caution: Under no circumstances should control devices be used to keep the motor shafts from turning!
32. Turn out a bolt, having released a hole for installation of adaptation КМ-955-1 (see illustration 6.32а). Using an open-end wrench, press the intake camshaft in the direction indicated by the arrow and fix the chain tensioner with KM-955-1, thereby loosening the chain tension.
Attention: When pressing/turning the camshafts, the key must be installed only on the part of the shaft made in the form of a hexagon (see illustration 6.32b)!
33. Holding the camshafts from turning, loosen the fastening bolts of the sprockets of both shafts (see illustration 6.32b), and then unscrew them one by one and replace them with new ones. Tighten bolts, notes that the rotor of the gauge of an inlet camshaft (see an illustration 6.29) could turn manually.
34. Install the KM-953 tool by turning the camshafts with an open end wrench and remove the KM-955-1 tool.
35. Install the KM-954 fixture so that the projection of the fixture coincides with the notch of the rotor (see illustration 6.29) - if necessary, tighten the rotor manually.
36. Screw in place the bolt of the hole for installing the KM-955-1 fixture and tighten with the required force. Tighten the mounting bolts of the camshaft sprockets with a force of 10 Nm - no more, then remove all adjusting devices.
37. Tighten the fastening bolts of the sprockets with a force of 50 Nm and another 60 ° - if necessary, use the help of an assistant, then smoothly turn the engine crankshaft 2 full turns and use the tools to check the TDC position - if the tools are not installed (see above) , re-adjust the valve timing.
Installation
38. Installation of all removed components is made in an order, the return to an order of removal. When assembling, use a new cylinder head cover gasket (see illustration), apply sealant (gray) to the joints of the cylinder head and timing cover.
Attention: The cover must be installed within 10 minutes after applying the sealant!
Don't forget to replace the adjusting hole bolt gasket.
Z22YH engine
Attention: Unlike others, this engine determines the TDC of the compression stroke for the piston of the 4th cylinder!
39. To check the valve timing after carrying out the preparatory work and turning the crankshaft pulley until the marks are aligned, it is necessary to install a special tool KM-6148 with the help of mounting bolts (see illustration) - while the guides must enter the special holes on the gear pulleys of the camshafts . If this does not happen, it is necessary to make the appropriate adjustment.
Engine Z19DT(H)
40. Z19DT engine - it is necessary to turn the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft pulley and on the timing case are aligned (see illustration).
41. Engine Z19DTH - to check, you must first unscrew 2 screw plugs in front and behind on the camshaft housing and screw in special adjusting mandrels Opel-EN-46789 (on the side of the intake valves) and EN-46789-100 (on the side of the exhaust valves) instead . Rotate the crankshaft so that the adjusting mandrels lock into the camshafts.
42. Install the EN-46788 crankshaft retainer (see illustration), to do this, unscrew the bolt (arrow) of the oil pump and install a special mounting pin instead. Install the retainer on the crankshaft gear and secure it to the gear with a bolt and nut on the mounting stud.
43. If, with the tool installed, the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley and the camshaft housing coincide, then the distribution phases are adjusted correctly. Otherwise, remove the toothed belt and make the appropriate adjustment - it is recommended to entrust this operation to the specialists of the service station.
44. At the end of the test, reinstall the removed components. Don't forget to install the engine cover ().
Engine Z17DT(L/H)
45. Remove the engine cover ().
46. Remove the air cleaner ().
47. Turn out a bolt of fastening of a box of an electroconducting from the top forward cover of a drive of GRM (see sopr. an illustration), disconnect a plait of electroconducting and a vacuum tube.
48. Disconnect the vacuum tube (see illustration) from the timing cover (3 holders), unscrew the 8 fixing bolts and remove the drive top cover.
Attention: Bolts of various lengths are used to fasten the upper cover of the toothed belt - remember the installation position of the bolts!
49. Remove the camshaft sensor bracket (see illustration 6.48).
50. Turn the crankshaft until the holes on the gear wheels of the camshaft and high pressure fuel pump are aligned with the holes on the engine housing and screw the mounting bolts (see illustration) M6 into the corresponding hole in the camshaft wheel and M8 into the high pressure fuel pump drive wheel.
51. Remove the engine crankcase protection () and check the alignment of the marks - with the installation bolts screwed in, the mark on the crankshaft pulley must match the pin on the oil pump cover.
Note: With the crankshaft pulley removed, the mark on the drive gear should line up with the boss on the oil pump cover.
If the marks do not match, it is necessary to adjust the distribution phases () - first remove the toothed belt.
52. At the end of the check, reinstall all the removed components.
Z13DTH engine
53. Remove 2 plugs from the camshaft housing (see illustration). Clean the threads and screw the fixing studs (Opel-EN-46781) into the holes - after installation, the flats on the outside of the studs should be horizontal. Mark the studs if necessary.
54. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the spring-loaded locking pins lock into place.
Attention: When turning the crankshaft, the assistant must ensure that the fixing pins do not turn!
55. Insert the Opel-EN-46785 pin into the special hole on the manual transmission (see illustration), slightly rotating the crankshaft back and forth so that the pin enters the hole on the flywheel. If the pin does not fit into the flywheel, the valve timing must be adjusted.
On a VAZ 2106 car, the piston of the 4th cylinder is set to the TDC position (top dead center) of the compression stroke so that during work connected with the dismantling of the camshaft drive circuit, the installation of the gas distribution phases is not disturbed. If the valve timing is disturbed, the power unit will not work positively. Set the TDC according to the mark on the camshaft sprocket (when mounting according to the marks on the crankshaft pulley and on the front cover of the camshaft drive chain, the piston of either the 1st or 4th cylinder can be in this position).
After that, make sure that the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the cover match. If at the same time the risks of the shaft do not match, then the installation of the gas distribution phases is violated (the piston of the 4th cylinder is not located at TDC). In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the camshaft drive chain from the camshaft sprocket and rotate the crankshaft until the marks match (see "Checking and installing the valve timing by marks"). useful recommendation
You can scroll the crankshaft VAZ -2106 in the following ways. 1. Get a special key to rotate the crankshaft for the bolt (ratchet) fixing the pulley. This wrench can be used to rotate the crankshaft from above the engine compartment. You can use the “36” head, but this is somewhat inconvenient due to the limited volume between the radiator and the engine, as a result of which it is necessary to dismantle the mudguard and scroll the crankshaft from the bottom of the VAZ 2106 car. the desired side until the marks on the camshaft sprocket match the mark on the camshaft bearing housing. 3. Engage 4th gear and hang one of the rear wheels. Next, turn the suspended wheel in the desired direction until the marks on the camshaft sprocket match the mark on the camshaft bearing housing.
The risks are placed on the camshaft sprocket (hole a) and on the camshaft bearing housing (protrusion b).
Comment
The cylinder head cover has been removed. In addition, the risks are applied in the casting on the cover of the camshaft drive chain (long risk a) and on the crankshaft pulley (triangular recess b on the edge of the pulley stream). For clarity, the photo was taken from the bottom of a VAZ 2106 car with the mudguard removed, however, from a certain angle of view, they are also visible from the upper section of the engine compartment.
Comment
Recess b is duplicated by a protrusion in the casting on the front section of the pulley hub, but the protrusion is not visible on the engine installed on the VAZ 2106 vehicle.
