VAZ 2107 injector engine does not start. What to do, the carburetor does not start

25.09.2019

Brake system

Sooner or later, but every motorist who operates domestic VAZ cars of the seventh model is faced with a situation that can be described with one banal phrase: "It does not start."

There may be several reasons that result in the inability to start the power unit, from an elementary lack of fuel in the power system to serious malfunctions in the main systems of the car. As a rule, these are power systems in conjunction with ignition (candles, high-voltage wire, etc.). In the article brought to your attention, the main focus will be on the malfunction of the power system, including the restoration of the carburetor of the VAZ 2107 car.

Malfunctions of the power system that prevent the engine "VAZ 2107" from starting

Gasoline pump

The main defects affecting the performance of the fuel pump, experts believe:

Measures to eliminate the above causes are as follows:

Purging of individual sections of the supply lines (for example, between and the tank) with compressed air.

Warming of frozen areas and removal of condensate from the fuel supply system.

Cleaning the fuel pump valve and filter mesh from dirt.

Diaphragm replacement.

If the VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start ....

The main option for equipping the seventh model of the Volga Automobile Plant is the carburetor of the DAAZ emulsion type, called "Ozone". The adjustment of the VAZ 2107 carburetor of this type is described in detail. However, it is not uncommon for the G7 to be equipped with a carburetor manufactured by the Italian company Solex. It should be noted a rather large degree of similarity of these units, differing only in systems that ensure the operation of the engine in the "idle" mode. In addition, the carburetor modification "21073" is equipped with two fittings for the exhaust gas recirculation system.

The most common malfunctions of this type of carburetor experts consider the following:

Problems with starting the VAZ "classic" engine are rare. There are few main reasons why the VAZ 2107 does not start. They can be divided into two areas: lack of spark and lack of gasoline. The device of the injection and carburetor engines is slightly different, so it is worth considering possible problems separately for each type.

Carburetor engine won't start

The list of possible reasons why looks like this:

Of course, there are other reasons why gasoline does not enter the engine cylinders. In this case, an individual approach to solving the problem is necessary.

If gasoline enters the cylinders, but the VAZ 2107 does not start, then it is worth checking the ignition system.

Unscrew the spark plug, connect it to a high-voltage wire and attach it to the engine head, ensuring contact with ground. Have an assistant watch the spark plug while you turn the starter. The candle should give out a stable spark of a bluish color. If the spark is red, the spark plug needs to be replaced.
If there is no spark, check the ground cable going to the engine. It must be tightened, the contact must not be oxidized or oily. It is possible to stretch a temporary additional cable, ensuring the contact of the engine with the "mass".
If a spark does not appear, check the operation of the distributor. The high-voltage “center” wire should be attached to the engine at a distance of 1 mm and the starter should be rotated. There is no spark, the fault lies in the distributor. Hold the wire with pliers, otherwise you can get an electric shock.
If there is no spark, check the cover of the distributor and the presence of voltage at the “K” contact. The absence of voltage on the contact indicates a malfunction of the ignition switch or fuse, power wire. To test this, you can run a temporary wire from the positive battery terminal.
If power is supplied to the distributor, it is necessary to check the contact gap of the breaker (0.4 mm) and the performance of the resistor installed in the slider.
With a working distributor, it remains to check whether the ignition is set correctly.

If the ignition is set correctly, the spark is normal and gasoline enters the cylinders, it remains to check the compression. In VAZ 2107, it must be 11 or higher.

Fuel injected engine won't start

The directions for troubleshooting an injection engine are the same gasoline, spark, ignition and compression. But the diagnosis is carried out a little differently.

A lit "Check engine" light indicates a problem with the ignition. To clarify the cause of the malfunction, read the error code. For the ignition system, the error code starts with P03XX, which indicates misfires in the cylinders. Of course, the test should begin with the fact that you can make sure that there is a spark at all. The stages of checking the injection engine look like this:

Reading the error code with a diagnostic scanner. The error code will indicate the type of malfunction.
Checking the ignition module. The easiest way to check it is by trying to replace it with a known-good one, which can be removed from a similar car or taken from a store. In the latter case, you must not forget about the check, which will allow you to return the part to the seller if it is not needed.
Checking the malfunction of the transistors of the control unit. VAZ cars have a pair of transistors, each of which is responsible for two cylinders. Usually they burn out at the same time, as a result, the spark disappears and the VAZ 2107 does not start.
Checking the flow of fuel into the cylinders. To do this, unscrew the candles. If they are dry, gasoline does not enter the engine. There are two possible main reasons: lack of voltage at the injectors or a faulty fuel pump. Also, the problem may be a clogged gasoline filter or a damaged gas line.
Checking the supply voltage of the injectors with a multimeter.
Checking the pressure in the fuel line and the performance of the fuel pump. The latter is easiest to check by analogy with the ignition module - try replacing it with a known working one.

This is a non-exhaustive list of causes of injection engine starting problems. Possible damage to the wires going to the ignition module or from the crankshaft position sensor and other malfunctions, for example, a catalyst clogged with combustion products.

semerkavaz.ru

Why the VAZ 2107 engine does not start

VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start

Fuel rail pressure can be checked with a tire pressure gauge.

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legkoe-delo.ru

VAZ does not start: causes, solutions

I must say, the reasons why the VAZ does not start: 2107, 2106, the model is not so important, not so much. Consider in the article the main reasons why the engine does not start.

In general, this problem has two directions: lack of gasoline and lack of spark. That is, fuel must enter the cylinder, and it must ignite. This is a simple truth that needs to be addressed. In addition, there are two more directions - this is an injection and carburetor engine. We will focus on them.

VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start

- Checking the fuel pump. To do this, it is desirable to have a fine fuel filter, which is installed under the hood. And with the quality of our gasoline, there is simply no way without it. So, if you manually shake the pump, then gasoline should circulate in the filter. If the filter is dry, then it is worth looking for the cause in air leakage in the fuel line. This is rare, but it does happen.

- If the VAZ 2107 engine does not start, and the fuel line is intact, the fuel pump itself must also be checked. To check, remove the inlet pipe, for starters. Fuel must not leak from the pump. If this happens, then the check valve is faulty, the pump needs to be replaced. If the fuel is holding, it is necessary to plug the inlet pipe with your finger, and then pump the pump 5-6 times. After doing such actions, a vacuum should be created in the pump. It should not reset even after a minute.

When the fuel pump is working and the fuel reaches the carburetor, it is worth doing the following. We remove the air filter cover, after which we ask the assistant to look into the intake manifold. Next, turn the starter and press the gas pedal. With such actions, fuel must be poured into the manifold. If not, then the carburetor needs to be flushed.

You should definitely understand that these are not all possible reasons why gasoline does not enter the cylinders. Each case of a malfunction is purely individual, so there is simply no solution to the problem for all occasions.

Now let's see why the carburetor-type VAZ engine does not start, if everything is in order with the fuel system, and the candles are “filled”. In this case, you need to pay attention to the ignition system.

- The first thing to do is check the spark on the candles. To do this, we unscrew one candle, insert it into the candlestick, lean it against the "mass", best of all, against the engine head. Next, we ask the assistant to watch, and we turn the starter ourselves. The spark should be stable, bluish in color. If it is red, then such a candle should be replaced.

- Further, if there is no spark, you need to look at the cable that is screwed to the box bell. It must be securely rolled, the contact must not be oily. Ideally, it is worth throwing a separate cable to the engine. Preferably with a cross section of at least 12-15.

- If there is still no spark, we pull out the central high-voltage wire from the distributor cap, be sure to take it with pliers and attach it to the block head with a gap of about half a millimeter, maybe a little more. Then we turn the starter and see that there is a spark. If it is, then the malfunction lies in the distributor. We will return to this point.

- When there is no spark, then you need to check the ignition coil and check the voltage at the “K” contact (2 wires are screwed to it. If there is no voltage, then it’s either in the ignition switch, and the names, in the contact group, or in the wire, or in the block fuses To check, you can duplicate the wire from the 15th contact of the ignition switch.

- Well, back to the distributor malfunction. First, you need to check the gap in the contacts of the breaker, if, of course, they exist. It should be 0.4 mm.

- You also need to check the integrity of the resistor, which is installed in the slider.

If everything is correct, then it is necessary.

On this, perhaps, we will finish with the carburetor engine. Certainly. If the VAZ engine does not start, gasoline is supplied, there is a spark, the ignition is set correctly, then it would be necessary to check the compression. It in the "Zhiguli" engine should not be less than 11.

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

With an injection engine, everything is a little easier and more complicated at the same time. In principle, there are two directions again: gasoline and a spark. Well, compression, respectively. For starters, there is a "check engine" light that will come on if the ignition system is malfunctioning. The error code in this case will begin with P03XX. That is, misfires in the cylinders. Of course, you must first check if there is a spark. There are several diagnostic methods that you should pay attention to:

- diagnostic scanner. There is nothing complicated here. If there is an error, then everything is much easier than when there are no errors at all. In this case, we check the part itself, and then the reasons, if it is working.

- ignition module. There are several methods worth trying to check, but the most reliable is to go to the store and take it for a check with a receipt. You can immediately talk about returning it if your own is in good condition. Of course, not all stores will do this, but most will agree.

The VAZ engine does not start it for one reason. This is quite common among car enthusiasts. The control unit has two transistors, each of which is responsible for a pair of cylinders. Most often they burn out at the same time, and the spark disappears completely.

If everything is fine with the spark, you need to check the power to the engine. Again, we unscrew the candles and see if they are wet.

- If the candles are dry, then you need to see if voltage is applied to the nozzles, for starters. To do this, remove the connector from one, connect the tester probes to the connector and the ground.

- After making sure of this, it is necessary to measure the pressure in the fuel rail.

- Most likely this is a bug. Therefore, it is necessary to check the fuel pump, first of all, the fuse that is responsible for it.

It is easier to check the fuel pump by replacing it with a known good one, as with the ignition module.

The VAZ 2107 engine does not gain momentum, does not pull

It happens that the VAZ engine does not pull. This is most often due to low rail pressure. The engine starts normally, at idle it also runs stably, but does not gain momentum. The thing is that in such modes, the fuel pump requires increased performance, which it cannot provide.

If the VAZ engine does not pull hot, then it is worth checking the air flow meter, as well as candles. The article has already mentioned a red spark, and so, on a cold one, they can be normal, but under the influence of temperature they become “pierced.

portalvaz.ru

VAZ-2107 (carburetor, injector) does not start in frost: causes, repair

In most cases, with a slight frost, the VAZ-2107 car can be successfully started. Low temperatures most often reveal problems with machine systems and maintenance. At the slightest malfunction, the engine starts to stall, the spark disappears or the starter does not work. Let's figure out for what reasons the VAZ-2107 car does not start in the cold.

Why does the carburetor engine not start

As a rule, starting problems occur when there is no spark or due to fuel supply difficulties. Diagnosis and treatment of the problem is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Check fuel pump. If you do not have a fine filter, then it may be clogged. In frost, dirt that has got in can freeze and turn into an impenetrable traffic jam. Pump up gasoline manually, you should find a small amount of fuel in the filter. Otherwise, look for the cause in the fuel line or in the air leak.
The car may not start due to the failure of the fuel pump check valve, if you have not previously noticed problems with this unit, you should not disassemble it in the cold.
Carburetor failure can be noticed with a simple test. Remove the cover from the air filter and have an assistant look into the intake manifold. If the carburetor is working, when you press the gas pedal and turn the starter, fuel will appear in this part.
Check candles. If they are dirty, then there will be no spark. This can happen if the ignition system is built incorrectly. The fuel mixture overflows the spark plugs. Also, the problem may be in the distributor. If there is soot on the candles, then because of this, a spark may not pass - you need to replace the candles and then the car will start. Burning can appear due to deposits of dust and dirt on candles.

If you did not find problems in the listed nodes, then check the engine compression. It must be at least 11.

Problems of injection models

A computer is installed on board the injection models, which can diagnose systems and give an error. Often in cold weather, he gives out a combination starting with the characters "P03", which means a misfire in the cylinders. If you think that low temperatures have disabled the ignition module or fuel pump, then instead of diagnosing, it is easier to replace these parts with known-good ones.

In general, the problems of injectors are the same as those of carburetor models. The only difference is that sometimes the diagnostic scanner becomes the cause of the failure. In order to reset its readings, it is enough to remove the negative terminal from the battery for a few minutes.

How does low temperature affect a car?

With the points listed above, motorists can encounter not only in winter, but also in summer. When cold weather sets in, an absolutely serviceable car can malfunction. A start-up problem may occur due to the wrong choice of consumables. If you choose the wrong oil, then when it gets cold, its viscosity increases, and it will be more difficult for the starter to scroll it.

It is also important to change your style of starting the engine - the clutch must be squeezed to the end. This will help warm up the lubricant faster by turning the gearbox shafts.

In winter, problems with the battery and engine compression are more common. In the latter case, it will be useful to remove the candles and pour some oil into the cylinders. Try starting the car and put the spark plugs back in. Experienced motorists claim that this method always helps to increase compression.

Low temperatures negatively affect spark strength, so check all wires and battery level. If necessary, replace the weak "links" in the electrical circuit of the car.

See also: How to open a VAZ-2107 without a key

How to act in winter

There is a single algorithm with which you can start the VAZ-2107, which does not have serious problems in the fuel supply, ignition or power supply system. To successfully complete the procedure, you will need to have dry, calcined candles on hand, a serviceable and charged battery, and a special spray for the carburetor. Consider the launch procedure in more detail:

Try to remove the battery at night so that it does not cool down. If you have not done this since the evening, then before trying to start your car, bring the battery for 20-30 minutes in a warm place. Remember that this battery loses its capacity by a quarter when frost sets in, so the starting current also drops.
If the temperature drop was not strong or heating the battery did not help, then turn on the music in the car or blink the headlights a little, in high beam mode. These simple actions will put a strain on the battery. If the battery quality is poor, you can put it on charge at low currents.
Install the prepared battery in place and try to start the engine. To begin with, squeeze the clutch to the full, and only then start to start the starter.
Warm up the power plant so that the oil becomes thinner. Slowly release the clutch to heat the lubricant in the gearbox.
If the injector stalls at the stage of warming up the gearbox, then use the blowing of the cylinders. This may not help, then remove the candles and burn them. They may be flooded.
For a cold start, a special spray is released, which is injected into the carburetor behind the air vent. If you have an injector, then spray the spray into the corrugated hose, which is also located behind the air vent.

You should also know another popular starting method in winter - “lighting up”. It is like if frosts caught you on the way, while there is no way to bring the battery into heat. For it, you will need a special starting battery or another car with a well-charged battery. Observe the following rules:

place cars not close to each other;
use only special cables with clamps;
in order not to overload the generator, do not give too much gas;
connect the terminals, observing the polarity;
the car should work 3 minutes before you disconnect it from the "donor".

Another common way to start an engine is by pushing. It is rarely resorted to if nothing else has affected the car. In severe frost, it may be ineffective, so all other methods are initially used.

The frost will not take you by surprise if you prepare your car for the cold in advance:

change antifreeze;
install a new set of candles;
pour anti-freeze liquid into the washer reservoir;
install the fender liner on the wheel arches;
change tires to studded ones;
spray WD-40 into the locks.

ladaautos.ru

VAZ-2107 carburetor does not start: causes, repair

Unfortunately, it is impossible to answer with accuracy the question of why the VAZ-2107 (carburetor) does not start, since there are a lot of reasons for such a malfunction. This can be either a breakdown of one or another part, or the failure of a certain system. If we discard the likelihood of a lack of fuel in the tank, then we can say that the car is faulty.

We start the car on our own

If your VAZ-2107 did not start for the first time since you have been using it, do not rush to go to a car service on a tow truck. Moreover, regardless of whether you have an injection car or a carburetor, you can check for faults yourself. To do this, follow these steps:

check the battery for performance, as well as the charge level;
look at the condition of the fuel filters and spark plugs;
Check throttle valve for blockage.

If the results of the check show that all the above parts are in working order, it is necessary to continue the check, only this time to do it in more depth.

See also: How to disassemble the stove on the VAZ-2107

Possible reasons why the VAZ-2107 does not start

If your VAZ-2107 car starts, but not immediately, or does not start at all, this severely limits your capabilities, and also disrupts your plans for the day. The fact is that even if your car does start, there is no guarantee that you will be able to drive it to your destination. By the way, it is precisely such situations that quite often arise due to the fact that the owner of the car changes his consumables out of time. And now let's look at the possible reasons why the VAZ-2107 may not start.

Even if during the previous check you made sure that the car battery is charged, you need to pay attention to its performance. Remember, it should not have traces of drips, as well as rust.
You should carefully inspect the fuses. Perhaps there was a power surge in the car, due to which they failed.
Check the operation of the ignition switch. If traces of rust are found on it, it is likely that they are the reason that the car will not start.
It is likely that the ignition coil has failed. The only way to fix this damage is to replace it.
The car's fuel system could also fail.
It is possible that too much condensation has accumulated under the hood of your car.

Things to Remember

Undoubtedly, it is the failure of the starter that is the most common breakdown, which leads to the fact that the VAZ-2107 will not start. This is far from the worst problem, which, by the way, is also found on higher-quality foreign cars.

To eliminate this malfunction, the starter should be removed, inspected for damage, and thoroughly cleaned of accumulated plaque on it. You will also need to change the lubricant.

See also: How to pull the chain on the VAZ-2107

Do not forget that overheating of its engine affects the performance of the car very negatively. By the way, this can happen not only on a hot day, but also in severe frost, if the engine cooling system has failed. In order to make sure that the overheating of the engine turned out to be the cause of the idle engine, you should look for traces of coolant in the cabin under the floors. But even if they were not there, it is necessary to disassemble the stove and see if all the pipes are in place, and also in what condition they are. The fact is that a banal blockage of the radiator could occur, due to which a failure occurred in the cooling system.

The intake valve is another detail that you should pay attention to if your VAZ-2107 completely refuses to start. He could burn out, and for no reason at all. As a result, the gases emanating from the car will receive a very high temperature, due to which the engine will overheat.

VAZ-2107 won't start in winter

All owners of this car are well aware that if they need to go somewhere when frost rages on the street, they should prepare for this in advance. And all because the oil in the gearbox and engine thickens so much that the starter is simply unable to crank it. Due to this, the car may not only not start the first time, but also refuse to do it at all.

In order not to be without your iron horse before the onset of spring, you need to know one little secret. When you try to start the car, you should depress the clutch pedal to the very end. In this case, the car will try to spin the shafts on the gearbox and prepare the car for the next movement.

Another reason that the VAZ-2107 refuses to drive in winter may be poor compression. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to remove the candles, pour a small amount of oil into the cylinder, replace the candles and try to start the engine again.

The fact is that frost has a rather negative effect on the wiring. In this regard, the power of the spark produced by candles in cold weather can be significantly reduced. It is necessary to constantly ensure that none of the wires leave the ignition coil, and that each connector is in good condition and has not been coated with oxide.

See also: How to start a VAZ-2107 without a key

Remember that, although the VAZ-2107 car is considered a budget car, you cannot save on its spare parts. You should also change all consumables and fluids in a timely manner. Only in this case, the car will please its owner with stable operation.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (the child is going to school, the wife is going to the hairdresser, and he is forging a penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and... What the hell... One more time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood - down the drain.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: “Take another car ..”), or the trouble is with the battery - disconnected or sat down. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - a 300 amp commercial - it is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work either. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off or dirty, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights for the night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try starting from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Do not try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) cannot be started by these methods. You'll have to smoke at a neighbor's. True, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is spinning, but sluggishly (this happens in summer, in winter this is a subject of a separate discussion), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by the weak headlights or frail signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

From a spark will ignite ...

Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the mass of the car (it doesn’t matter if it is painted or not), and fixed so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your car is electronic, you need to fasten the wire especially securely - if it falls to ground, the electronics will instantly order a long life. For the same reason, you can not strike a wire on the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even your own - it will shock you great.

Stage two. Turn the engine over with the starter. At the same time, look at what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field for further searches.

At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either applied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will need to be changed. More often there is a bad contact in fastening the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, through which the spark flows away, no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but an invisible very narrow strip of dirt remains under it - a good conductor.

If, at the third stage, you made sure that no voltage was supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t cope with electronics (switch and, less often, a sensor in the distributor housing) - special equipment is needed to diagnose them. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - suddenly it will help. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

If voltage has appeared (when the contacts are pulled, the light flashes), restore everything that has been unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, still have time to go about its business. If it doesn’t start, but at least sneezes, turn out the candles and ...

Do not press to the floor - it will not help

It may also turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order in it, and the engine, even if you crack, still does not start. This means that there are problems with another of the systems mentioned earlier - the power supply system, that is, the supply of fuel to the engine.

If there is a trickle in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it often fails. On foreign cars, starting from about the 70s, automatic air damper control is used. The device, without your participation, depending on the temperature of the engine, closes or opens the damper as much as necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine is started. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. The air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (having previously returned the air filter to its place). the gas tank itself - you can quite demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the opposite direction to the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to the tank. In the tank, booming, gurgling sounds should be heard.

About the causes of atherosclerosis

Let's try to explain why the circulatory system of a car is sometimes affected by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline is the blood of the car. And the blood must be pure and run through clean vessels. And the fact that "cholesterol" accumulates in the vessels in excess of the permissible measure, as a rule, is our own fault. How often do you use a canister to add gasoline to the tank? If so, then the chances of clogging the gas line and filters increase, especially if your funnel is without a mesh. Garbage, rust, sand usually accumulate in the canister, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate containers used on the way of gasoline from the dispenser to the tank, the better. Oddly enough, even at the most seedy gas station, there is less dirt in tanks in specific terms than in a "home" canister. The scourge of our gas stations is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. In our memory, only one crook got burned by diluting gasoline, and even then not with water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Fortune"). So you have to put up with it. However, in order not to add water to domestic diluted gasoline with your own hands, try to always keep the tank full. Condensation accumulates in an incomplete tank, especially in the off-season, when sudden temperature changes occur.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Don't lose either one. If a missing tie or a pant leg burnt with an iron can cause a disruption in a business meeting, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Take it easy. No need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. In 5 minutes, most likely, you will not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And it is better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car, and you are not a specialist. That will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.

The diagnosis should be made calmly

Study mentally the symptoms. First, is the starter spinning? And if so, how cheerfully? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another car ..."), or the trouble is with the battery - disconnected or sat down. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - a 300 amp commercial - it is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work either. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off or dirty, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights for the night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try starting from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Do not try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) cannot be started by these methods. You'll have to smoke at a neighbor's. True, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is spinning, but sluggishly (this happens in summer, in winter this is a subject of a separate discussion), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by the weak headlights or frail signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further consideration. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It is better to start with the ignition - there are problems more often. Especially in wet weather.

From a spark will ignite ...

So, you need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic non-contact ignition system, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classical system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, referred to in the world as an ignition coil. Part three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the candles). And, of course, the candles themselves. Checking all this economy should be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

If the ignition of your car is electronic, you need to fasten the wire especially securely - if it falls to the ground, the electronics will instantly order a long life. For the same reason, you can not strike a wire on the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even your own - it will shock you great.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. Under it can be damp and dirty. Through such a "conductor" a spark willingly jumps anywhere, but not where it is needed. Wipe, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Examine the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed.

In the most biased way, check the wires coming from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their lugs must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back on, reconnect and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start to sneeze. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the candles - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already got to the stage of turning out the candles, you can quite effectively (and effectively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the inverted candles, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap them directly along their threaded part with bare soft wire. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. At the same time, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the candles in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine at the same time will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Don't spin for too long. Worse, if at the second stage of the test there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the "case". So, it's not about high voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is applied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if it is not there, you can use the engine compartment light. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the breaker contacts - they can oxidize, especially if the machine has been standing still for some time. Contacts must be carefully cleaned with a thin sandpaper or a special file.

Pull the cleaned contacts so that they either close or open. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so you can pull it fearlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the voltage to the coil is still not applied, once again we advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, since difficulties will begin further.

It may also turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order in it, and the engine, even if you crack, still does not start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power system, i.e. e. supplying fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with injection (injection supply system) of fuel, do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke down: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - it means that she, darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and with handicraftsmen, repairing it is useless and even harmful.

In a conventional carbureted engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a gasoline pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can poke around yourself. The first step is to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual priming lever. If a fairly powerful stream of gasoline has scored, everything is fine, it's time to move on to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not enter it. If you have time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply press the accelerator pedal. Or you can sharply pull on the throttle cable yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you won’t see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that it is not in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (it happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or clogged jets. The filter is cleaned by blowing, but if you don’t have the necessary skills, it’s better not to mess with the carburetor internals at all, deal with sticking of the needle valve, clogged jets and other subtleties - let the experts do it.

If there is a trickle in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it often fails. On foreign cars, starting from about the 70s, automatic air damper control is used. The device, without your participation, depending on the temperature of the engine, closes or opens the damper as much as necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine is started. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. The air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (having previously returned the air filter to its place). the gas tank itself - you can well demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the opposite direction to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. In the tank, booming, gurgling sounds should be heard.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to drive normally. If it is completely clogged, the engine will not start. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if there is no new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, ballpoint pen cases, preferably transparent - you can see how gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - a sealed (or sealed) case cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car does not have a fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".

We saved the rare but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in perfect order, but the car, nevertheless, does not start - it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - in belts, like in humans, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt needs to be replaced (those who have a car with a camshaft chain drive do not face this trouble). The procedure for replacing the belt is not difficult, but troublesome. It is carried out in a hospital. Well, if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire head of the block - this also happens.

Fewer freeloaders

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to give operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable longer. Do not get carried away stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that the energy balance of the car has a certain margin that allows you to connect two or three "freeloaders" does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unforeseen tsatski yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery is dying, try not to chug your engine during countless city stops. Nothing rapes the battery like frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire lugs must be dry and clean and fit well to the "destinations". Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or fire.

You can stop there. Meticulous motorists, of course, drew attention to some superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to delve into the wilds. In order not to provoke you to self-treatment - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps a lot with the treatment.

Carburetor engine won't start

The list of possible reasons why the VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start looks like this:

Of course, there are other reasons why gasoline does not enter the engine cylinders. In this case, an individual approach to solving the problem is necessary.

If gasoline enters the cylinders, but the VAZ 2107 does not start, then it is worth checking the ignition system.

Unscrew the spark plug, connect it to a high-voltage wire and attach it to the engine head, ensuring contact with ground. Have an assistant watch the spark plug while you turn the starter. The candle should give out a stable spark of a bluish color. If the spark is red, the spark plug needs to be replaced.
If there is no spark, check the ground cable going to the engine. It must be tightened, the contact must not be oxidized or oily. It is possible to stretch a temporary additional cable, ensuring the contact of the engine with the "mass".
If a spark does not appear, check the operation of the distributor. The high-voltage “center” wire should be attached to the engine at a distance of 1 mm and the starter should be rotated. There is no spark, the fault lies in the distributor. Hold the wire with pliers, otherwise you can get an electric shock.
If there is no spark, check the cover of the distributor and the presence of voltage at the “K” contact. The absence of voltage on the contact indicates a malfunction of the ignition switch or fuse, power wire. To test this, you can run a temporary wire from the positive battery terminal.
If power is supplied to the distributor, it is necessary to check the contact gap of the breaker (0.4 mm) and the performance of the resistor installed in the slider.
With a working distributor, it remains to check whether the ignition is set correctly.

If the ignition is set correctly, the spark is normal and gasoline enters the cylinders, it remains to check the compression. In VAZ 2107, it must be 11 or higher.

Fuel injected engine won't start

The directions for troubleshooting an injection engine are the same gasoline, spark, ignition and compression. But the diagnosis is carried out a little differently.

Reading the error code with a diagnostic scanner. The error code will indicate the type of malfunction.
Checking the ignition module. The easiest way to check it is by trying to replace it with a known-good one, which can be removed from a similar car or taken from a store. In the latter case, you must not forget about the check, which will allow you to return the part to the seller if it is not needed.
Checking the malfunction of the transistors of the control unit. VAZ cars have a pair of transistors, each of which is responsible for two cylinders. Usually they burn out at the same time, as a result, the spark disappears and the VAZ 2107 does not start.
Checking the flow of fuel into the cylinders. To do this, unscrew the candles. If they are dry, gasoline does not enter the engine. There are two possible main reasons: lack of voltage at the injectors or a faulty fuel pump. Also, the problem may be a clogged gasoline filter or a damaged gas line.
Checking the supply voltage of the injectors with a multimeter.
Checking the pressure in the fuel line and the performance of the fuel pump. The latter is easiest to check by analogy with the ignition module - try replacing it with a known working one.

What to do if the injection engine of the car does not start? What to do when, when the key is turned in the ignition, the starter turns, but the engine does not start. If the engine was carbureted, then the situation with the definition of breakdowns is a little simpler. How are things with injection engines?

In an area where there are a sufficient number of auto repair shops, and calling a tow truck is not a problem, solving the problem is not so difficult. But what if there is no such possibility? After all, there are times when you have to do everything yourself. In fact, many breakdowns due to which the engine does not start can be fixed on your own.

Tools needed for self-diagnosis

Bulb. You can make such a control lamp yourself by connecting wires from the instrument panel to the lamp. To do this, you need to use light bulbs up to 3 watts.
Discharger. It is needed to determine if a spark is being supplied to the spark plugs. There are many recommendations for self-assembly of such a device.
Multimeter. It's not very easy to assemble here. But such "testers" are widely available in the trading network.

Possible reasons why the injection engine does not start

Fuel system

It is necessary to diagnose the fuel supply system. In domestic injection cars, when starting the engine, you can hear a specific buzzing from the rear of the car. This sound indicates the operation of the fuel pump. Accordingly, if such a buzzing is not observed, most likely the problem lies in the pump.

You need to check the fuses that are responsible for the fuel pump, the main engine control relay and the fuel pump relay. In some cars of the VAZ family, the fuses are hidden under the glove compartment, in others behind the heating panel cover on the passenger side. If the fuses are ok, check the relay.

You can touch it, and a specific click should sound. If the relay is also working properly, you need to check the pressure in the fuel system. It is best to do this with a manometer. If this is not possible, you will have to find a spool, which should be under a protective cap.

When you press it, you should feel pressure. Some models do not have a spool. Then you need to disconnect the fuel supply pipe. If the pump is working, then pressure should also be felt under the finger.

Possible causes could also be clogged fuel filters or fuel lines. There may also be such a banal reason as the lack of fuel in the tank.

If it turned out that all the elements of the fuel system are in order, then the next thing to pay attention to is the ignition system.

Ignition system

The main thing to be sure of is the presence of a good spark, that is, a discharge between the two contacts of the spark plug. If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, then there is a high probability that the ignition system is malfunctioning. Here we need our spark gap. If you check the candle without it, for example, by attaching it to the engine, then the resistance will be too great.

Therefore, we will not be able to accurately check our candles and, in addition, the controller can be disabled. After checking the fuel system, the ignition system and not finding the causes of the malfunctions, it will be necessary to check the engine. Most likely, the reason is in it.

Starter malfunction

This can be a very common reason that the car engine does not start. In order to establish a possible cause of a starter failure, it is very good if the motorist has at least a rough idea of the structure of this mechanism, and how you can check whether it is working.

For owners of foreign cars, it is important to know that imported starters can stop turning even from a lack of lubrication or contamination. In this case, the solution is very simple: remove the starter from the engine, thoroughly clean it of dirt and thoroughly lubricate the necessary mechanical components. Moreover, the used grease must be removed. In principle, this is not difficult, but if it does not work out, then it is better to contact the master.

Some starter malfunctions can be identified by ear. If you turn the key in the ignition, the starter clicks, but it does not start, then most likely the relay is faulty. If possible, then you need to repair it. If the relay cannot be repaired, then it is worth replacing it. Only collapsible types of relays can be repaired.

Accumulator battery

The battery must not be damaged and the terminals must be clean without oxide, otherwise the battery will not make good contact with the car's electrical wiring. The battery must have sufficient charge and "hold" it.

If the battery has been used in the undercharge mode for some time, then the probability of deep discharge is very high, at which it will no longer be able to recover.

Wiring

Corrosion can form on the wiring elements or at the joints, which prevents the normal flow of current. All contact pairs must be clean and connections insulated.

nozzles

Injectors in a car rarely fail all together and at the same time. Therefore, if there is a malfunction of one of the injectors, then the engine will still be able to start and work, albeit intermittently.

crankshaft sensor

If this sensor is faulty, the engine will not be able to start. At the same time, the starter turns, but the engine still does not start. The failure of other sensors will not be able to affect so much that the engine does not start. To test the sensors, you should use a multimeter.

The auto giant VAZ presented domestic motorists with many models of vehicles that have become classics today. They are still incredibly popular. It happens that a failure occurs in the car's systems. The car cannot move.

Independent problem solving

VAZ-2107 or does not move at all, quite a lot. It is quite possible to find a breakdown on your own. But for this you need to stock up on patience, the necessary tools and a sufficient amount of free time. If trouble caught the owner of the car when he is in a hurry about his business, it is better to take another car. It will be possible to repair this later, when there is enough time for diagnostics.

It doesn't matter if a carbureted or injection engine is installed on this model. Diagnostics is carried out in any case according to a single scheme.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the battery, whether it is charged. Also, the battery may fail for some reason. Next, candles, fuel filters are inspected. You can also check the throttle body. It may be clogged. This is the simplest test, which sometimes immediately reveals a malfunction. If the cause could not be established, a deeper diagnosis will be required.

First step in diagnosis

What should be checked first of all if the VAZ-2107 does not start? The starter is what needs more attention. You should see how it behaves when ignited. It can work vigorously, weakly or not at all to react to ignition.

If the starter does not work at all, the breakdown may be related to this particular node. But such a picture is also typical for a completely starter relay, while it does not even click. To test this version, you must turn on any battery powered equipment, such as headlights.

If the starter turns weakly, the problem is a dead battery. This can confirm dim headlights.

Battery failure at best can be solved by tightening the terminals. If the battery is completely discharged, you can leave the push, tug or slide. But a car with electronic fuel injection or an automatic transmission cannot be set in motion in this way.

Ignition system breakdowns

The starter can turn briskly, but the engine will not start. or injector), most likely, cannot move due to or its ignition. It is better to start with the latest when diagnosing. This system in the presented model fails more often. This is especially true for wet weather.

The contact system of the "seven" can be very different. There are cars with a simple device (classic) or with a very complex electronic non-contact principle. There are also combined options.

In any case, the ignition system will consist of 4 parts. This is a low-voltage group step-up transformer (coil). This is followed by the high-voltage part and candles. Checking is carried out in stages (and better from the end).

High voltage part of the system

If the VAZ-2107 does not start well or does not work at all, it is necessary to check the central wire. It connects the distributor to the coil. To do this, the wire tip is carefully removed from the cover. Then it is brought closer to any part that is in close contact with the mass of the machine. It does not matter if this surface is painted or not.

Next, you need to fix the wire in such a way that a small space remains between the selected part and its tip (5-7 mm is enough). If the car has an electronic type ignition, it is necessary to attach the conductor especially carefully. After all, when it falls to the ground, all electronics will most likely fail.

It is also impossible to strike the central wire across the body. Do not hold the conductor by hand. The electric shock will be quite strong. If there is a spark in this system, then the problem is in another system.

Further research into electronics

In search of the reason why the VAZ-2107 does not start, it is necessary to further investigate the electronics. If the matter is not in the ignition spark of the central wire, it is necessary to remove the distributor cap. It is necessary to visually assess its internal state.

If dirt or condensation has accumulated under the distributor cap, the spark may not go where it should. To eliminate such violations, this space should be washed, dried and cleaned. The distributor contacts are also cleaned with fine sandpaper. If there is a dark mark from an electric shock on the slider or cover, this part will have to be replaced.

Next, you should very carefully examine the wires going to the candles. Their tips and all communications must be clean and dry. After that, the cover can be installed in its original place. The system is checked again. If all fails, the candles are turned out and cleaned. Sometimes they need to be replaced altogether.

Checking the voltage on the ignition coil

If, after the manipulations, the VAZ-2107 does not start, it is necessary to check the ignition coil. Voltage may or may not be applied to it. In the first case, it is the coil that causes the problem. This is rare, but in this case it is necessary to change it. Sometimes the wires are poorly attached to it, which leads to a malfunction.

If there is no voltage on the coil, the reason is most likely precisely the electronics, in which the contacts and connections in the low-voltage part are not securely fastened. But with the diagnosis in this system alone can not cope. You'll have to go to a professional mechanic.

If the ignition system of the car is of the classic contact type, you can also try to inspect the breaker contacts. If the car has been standing still for a while, they can oxidize. In this case, they are cleaned. If voltage is applied to the coil, you can continue to operate the car. If not, you need to contact the service center.

Fuel supply

If the VAZ-2107 car does not start even after all the above manipulations, the problem may be in the fuel supply system. With an injection fuel supply system, nothing can be done on your own. You can only do harm. In this case, a visit to the service cannot be avoided.

The carburetor system is simpler. Therefore, it can be self-diagnosed. First, check whether gasoline enters the carburetor. After disconnecting the hose, turn on the manual fuel supply. If everything works, you can check if the fuel goes directly to the carburetor.

To do this, the air filter is removed, the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply. You can instead pull on the throttle cable. Look into the carburetor from above (choke is open). If there is no stream of gasoline in the first diffuser, then the valve needle is stuck or the fuel filter is clogged.

Temperature effect

Often the VAZ-2107 does not start in winter. Such a nuisance can be caused by the wrong choice of oil viscosity or its thickening in the gearbox. It becomes difficult for the starter to turn it in the system.

If the viscosity of the oil is not suitable, it can lead to engine failure. Therefore, in cold weather, the selection of lubricants should be taken very carefully. In winter, in order for the car to start quickly, it is necessary to depress the clutch to the end. The mechanism will turn the gearbox shafts, preparing the car for movement.

It is in winter that problems with compression are determined in the cylinders. You need to remove the spark plugs. Then some oil is poured into the cylinders. Now try to start the car again. Next, the candles are returned to their place. Motorists with experience say that this method works almost always.

Electricity in the cold

VAZ-2107 does not start in cold weather also due to problems in the electrical system. Low temperatures reduce the strength of the spark. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully monitor whether the wires are moving away from the coil, and whether the connectors have signs of oxidation.

It should also be remembered that cheap spare parts, rare maintenance significantly reduce the life of the car. Poor-quality antifreeze can be the answer to the question of why the "seven" does not start. Therefore, by regularly carrying out maintenance, choosing the right consumables, you can not be afraid of problems with the car. When difficulties arise, they can be eliminated quickly and easily.