Clutch slip in a passenger car is a common malfunction that leads not only to inconvenience in driving a car, but also to unplanned financial costs. The breakdown occurs due to improper operation of the transmission system and untimely maintenance.

A detailed review will help the car owner figure out why the VAZ 2107 clutch is slipping, and will acquaint you with ways to fix the problem with your own hands, without resorting to the help of a service station.

The driver can detect slippage in the following ways:

1. Difficult shifting, a kind of crunch.
2. The car does not move well and starts to slip.
3. When driving fast in low gears, it twitches (working jerks).
4. Loss of power when climbing.
5. The appearance of vibration or noise.
6. Failure of the pedal device.

Why is this happening?

To understand why the clutch on the VAZ 2107 is slipping, you need to understand its structure and principle of operation.

The whole mechanism consists of the following elements:

• crankcase;
• slave drive basket;
• riveted friction linings;
• diaphragm spring;
• pressure disk;
• hydraulic clutch release.

Parts are placed in a steel basket; the driven disk contains splines and damper springs that ensure smooth gear changes.

The principle of operation is based on friction between the working parts. The clutch connects the power unit and transmission, transmits torque from the engine flywheel to the intermediate shaft of the gearbox (gearbox) of the car. When you press the pedal, the disc moves away, the connection between the motor and the box is disconnected, the rotation of the gearbox shaft stops. When the pedal is released, the flywheel and the gearbox shaft are connected, rotation is transmitted to the box.

The coupling device slips for reasons:

1. Oil leak, liquid getting on the surface of the basket parts.
2. Drive disk overheating. When the temperature is exceeded during use, the discs expand. This phenomenon is imperceptible on the go. It is determined by inspection of the part. On the surface, soot raids and cinders are visible.
3. Wear or delamination of friction linings. Elements not only wear out, but can also burn. There is an unpleasant smell in the car interior.
4. Damaged or worn pressure spring. In the presence of defects, the spring is not able to create the required pressure on the disk.
5. Lack of gaps in the hydraulic shutdown drive.
6. Reduced free play.

Experts combine the reasons why this happens into 2 groups:

1. Hitch does not fully engage (leads). It is connected with the increased distance of the pedal to the platform.
2. The clutch is not fully engaged (slips). The discs slip relative to each other, the pedal travel decreases.

How to check if the clutch is slipping or not

To check the system yourself without special technical devices, perform the following steps:

1. Start the engine, put it in neutral.
2. Release the parking brake.
3. Press the gas lever.
4. Engage first gear.
5. Depress the pedal.
6. Squeezing is done several times.

When the assembly is working properly, the engine will stall. If the engine does not turn off, or there are extraneous sounds (clicks, squeaks, knocks) and the smell of burning, the clutch is considered faulty. Pay special attention to pedal travel. The lever should lower smoothly, without jerks and interruptions.

What to do when the clutch is slipping

Depending on the cause of slippage, the course of repair and restoration work is determined.

If the fault lies in the pressure spring, it must be replaced with a new one. If the friction linings are worn out, the driven disk is replaced. When repairing and replacing some linings, the gaskets must be inspected. If they are damaged or have burnt places, they are also changed. If oily liquid gets on the parts of the driven disk, it is necessary to treat the surface with kerosene or white spirit and clean it with fine-caliber sandpaper.

Lubrication on the surface of the flywheel and pressure plate is possible with an excessive increase in the fluid level in the gearbox housing or a leak in the crankshaft rear bearing. To solve the problem, visual diagnostics are carried out and the cause of the leak is eliminated, then the parts are cleaned.

What to do in the absence of hydraulic clearances or insufficient free play of the lever, the car repair manual will tell you.

The amount of free travel according to specifications is 30-35 mm, full travel - 140 mm. Any deviation of the parameter is associated with a malfunction of the transmission system and requires adjustment work to change the pedal stroke and the position of the disc relative to the flywheel.

Given the vulnerability of the clutch during inept operation, the craftsmen recommend examining the magnitude of the stroke during the passage of maintenance. The parameter is checked with a measuring ruler. To do this, measure the distance from the pedal to the central part of the site.

Repair work is carried out in the passenger compartment using open-end wrenches 13x17 mm and 17x19 mm. The M10 adjusting nut is screwed onto the tip. Twisting and unscrewing the element affects the increase or decrease in the distance from the pedal lever to the floor. Preliminary, the pusher should be treated with a universal spray of WD-40 from dried dirt. The pusher adjustment nut is turned with rotational movements to the required value, with a key of 17 they are blocked from turning, with a key of 13 the control fasteners are loosened.

At the end of the work, tighten the lock nut so that the settings do not go astray. The adjusted clutch is checked by depressing the pedal several times, after which the distance from the floor is re-measured.

On the VAZ 2107, the free travel of the fork rod is adjusted on the inspection ditch. The plug can deviate within 2-4 mm.

Pedal travel minus free travel

The algorithm for performing the procedure for setting the free travel of the fork:

1. Pliers remove the ends of the return spring under the fasteners of the working cylinder.
2. The adjusting nut is held back with a 17 wrench, the main fastener is loosened with a 13 wrench.
3. They stop the stem with adjustable pincers “Cobra”.
4. By turning the key by 17 on the adjusting nut, the free play of the stem is adjusted.
5. Tighten the locknut.

Checking the operation of the clutch:

1. Start and warm up the engine to operating temperature.
2. Depress the pedal.
3. Shift into first gear.
4. Turn off, go into reverse.

During normal operation, the clutch does not drive, it is easily squeezed out and does not stick. Part damage and incorrect settings contribute to the need to replace the coupling.

The VAZ 2107 clutch is a part of the transmission mechanism involved in the transmission of torque to the driving wheels of the car. There is a clutch between the gearbox and the car's engine and transmits rotation from the engine to the gearbox. At the moment the pedal is pressed, the clutch is disengaged and the engine is separated from the gearbox. When the pedal is released, the connection is re-established. The clutch provides smooth starting and silent gear changes.

Main malfunctions

The working cylinder has several rubber seals, which often become unusable or oily, then the car's clutch “slips”. Replacing old seals with new ones will require using a lift or inspection hole, since the master cylinder is located in an inconvenient place.

When replacing seals, do not forget that there is brake fluid in the system, it must first be drained.

It is advisable not to touch the cone nut, otherwise additional adjustment will be required later. In order to replace the gaskets without removing the master cylinder, certain skills and experience are needed.

Another cause of clutch failure may be wear on the release bearing. To replace it, you will have to dismantle the gearbox. The brake disc linings wear out no less often, it is easy to notice by the characteristic noise at the moment the pedal is released. And the most common clutch problem is air trapped in the system. Air can be removed by pumping.

pumping

For pumping, you will need brake fluid and a container for draining it, as well as a transparent hose with a diameter of 5 mm. and an assistant who will have to press the clutch pedal until heaviness appears in it. After that, it must be clamped, and the second person at this time must unscrew the fitting and drain all the brake fluid. Air bubbles will be visible in the hose. The procedure should be repeated until these same bubbles disappear. Also, do not forget about the liquid level in the expansion tank.

Adjustment

Clutch adjustment on the VAZ 2107 is carried out by adjusting the clutch drive, or rather, the adjusting bolt, which is located at the end of the cable in the engine compartment. Incorrect adjustment causes the clutch to slip.

1. The car is installed on a flyover or viewing hole.
2. In the cabin, the free play of the clutch pedal is checked and, if necessary, adjusted. to do this, use a 10 key to loosen the lock nut of the pedal limiter and set the required clearance, approximately 0.4-2 mm.
3. The pusher is cleaned of dirt and a penetrating lubricant is applied.
4. The working cylinder is checked for free play of the pusher, on which the free play of the release bearing depends. To do this, the clutch fork is pressed back by hand until it stops, while the free play of the pusher should be within 4-5 mm.
5. The pusher free play is adjusted with a 17 key, which will keep the adjusting nut from turning, and with a 13 key, the lock nut is loosened.
6. The pusher is held with a key for 8, at the same time with a key for 17 turns
7. the adjusting nut is turned and the necessary free play of the pusher is set, this is approximately 4-5 mm.
8. The locknut is tightened, for this the pusher adjusting nut is held.
9. In the passenger compartment, the total free play of the clutch is checked, which should be approximately 25-30 mm. from the top position of the pedal to the start of switching on. If necessary, the whole operation is repeated several times until it is felt that the clutch is no longer slipping.

Replacing the master and slave cylinder

The master cylinder is replaced in the following sequence:

1. Fluid is draining from the tank. This can be done using an ordinary syringe, or by removing the hose from the master cylinder fitting.
2. The fitting of the pipeline leading to the clutch slave cylinder is unscrewed.
3. With a key of 13, two nuts are unscrewed, on which the master cylinder is attached.

Replacement of the working cylinder:

1. The spring is removed from the working cylinder.
2. With a key of 10, the tube connecting the main and working cylinders is unscrewed.
3. With a key of 13, two bolts of the working cylinder are unscrewed and removed together with the plate.

After replacement, the working cylinder must be pumped.

Do-it-yourself clutch replacement

When replacing the clutch, you should carefully inspect all the parts to be removed, it is quite possible that you will not need to replace the entire assembly, it will be enough to change only some parts.

The clutch is replaced in the following sequence:

1. The battery terminals are disconnected.
2. The gear lever is disengaged from the transmission.
3. The exhaust pipe is disconnected from the resonator, then the working cylinder is disconnected from the gearbox housing. The cardan is disconnected from the gearbox itself.
4. The bolts securing the starter to the gearbox housing are unscrewed, but before that, the two lower nuts that secure the transmission to the engine block must be loosened.
5. The gearbox is removed, then the clutch basket is dismantled. After removing the basket, the clutch disc is released
6. At this stage, if necessary, the master cylinder and other components are replaced, for example, the clutch fork or antennae on the basket are changed.
7. Assembly and installation of the node is carried out in the reverse order.

When assembling, all parts must be thoroughly washed, but in no case should this be done in gasoline or oil. Lubrication is carried out only with brake fluid.

The clutch is one of the most important components in the car, without which it simply will not budge. Therefore, this complex system requires due attention and care. Malfunctions in the operation of the clutch can lead to spontaneous movement of the car, and this is a direct threat to the lives of others.

Not really

A few words about the principle of operation of the clutch. The work of any engine on a car ends with the rotational movement of a heavy flywheel. By controlling the accelerator, you can only increase or decrease the speed of rotation of the flywheel. In order for the car to start moving, it is necessary to transfer this movement to a mechanical gearbox - a gearbox. It is very necessary to transmit this rotational movement, otherwise the motor will simply stall. The same operation - smooth disengagement of the transmission - is also necessary when the car is stopped. The clutch is such a "soft" switch.

The principle of operation of this device is easy to understand. Imagine two spinning discs the size of a small steering wheel. One of them is the flywheel of the motor, and the second is the clutch disc. If, during the rotation of the flywheel, the disk from the gearbox is pressed tightly against it, then the rotational movement will be transmitted and the car will start moving. Everything seems to be very simple. Everything works like that, only the disks are compressed using special mechanisms, and special gaskets are installed between them.

The main malfunctions can be poor compression of disks or their untimely separation. It is said that the clutch "leads" or "slips".

How does the clutch slip

If the smell of burning occurs during the movement of the car, the acceleration of the car has become worse, a decrease in speed is noticeable when overcoming the rise, then this is a clear symptom of a malfunction - slipping. To clarify this diagnosis, you can turn on the gear with the engine running and the hand brake applied. Then, while gently depressing the control pedal, slowly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stops, then there is no slipping, and if it continues to work, then the clutch slips.

The causes of this unpleasant phenomenon may be: a violation of the free play of the pedal, wear or oiling of the friction linings, wear of the pressure springs, or a malfunction of the hydraulic clutch release.

How does the clutch

The movement of the car is disturbed by jerks, there is a difficulty in shifting gears. Shocks in the transmission when starting the car from a stop, abrupt engagement of the clutch when the pedal is released smoothly, unpleasant noise - all these are signs of a malfunction, which they say that the “clutch leads”, that is, when the pedal is pressed, the discs do not completely diverge, and the drive shaft of the box gear keeps turning.

The degree can be checked as follows. At low engine speeds, the clutch pedal should be depressed to failure, and if the first gear is switched on silently, the clutch is completely disengaged. If, when turning on the first gear, a strong noise of the gears is heard and the gear does not turn on or turns on with difficulty, then the clutch “leads”.

The reasons may be: a large free play of the pedal, air ingress into the hydraulic drive of the system, leakage of brake fluid

It is possible that the engine mounting screws have simply loosened or the grease in the bearings has completely developed. There are quite a few reasons for the occurrence of a malfunction, and there is only one conclusion - they must be eliminated, and the sooner the better and much cheaper.

• One of the main elements that no VAZ car can do without is the clutch. And, like any device, it tends to wear out, deteriorate and be damaged, as a result of which the clutch may begin to slip.

• When the VAZ 2107 clutch slips, the car's traction is sharply reduced, and all the speed characteristics of the car become extremely low. Clutch problems of this kind can be caused by several reasons.

• However, many drivers will not be able to determine by eye or "smell" what kind of malfunction interferes with the normal operation of cars. Therefore, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic signs by which you can determine that the clutch is slipping.

• This process is associated with the combustion of rubber parts, as a result of which a specific “aroma” will appear in the cabin. A slipping clutch also has a bad effect on speed performance - acceleration becomes extremely slow, and on steep climbs the car may refuse to move up at all.

• If there are suspicions, you can find out that the VAZ 2107 clutch is slipping by doing just two actions. You need to start the engine, tighten the handbrake, and then engage first gear. When this is done, slowly rev up and release the clutch at the same time.

• If this causes the engine to stall, this is not a reason to panic, but on the contrary - everything is in order with the car. However, if the car starts to move, it will be a clear sign that the clutch is still slipping.

• If the fact of the presence of this problem is obvious, you should check how easily the clutch pedal moves. If the problem is in it, adjusting the clutch will allow the system to work. If the reason is that the clutches are worn out, you need to check how damaged they are.

• For a situation where the damage is small, it is not necessary to replace them, it is enough to adjust the pedal free play. But otherwise, you need to completely change the driven disk. Well, if it turned out that oil got on the friction clutches or linings, you should find out the cause, eliminate it, and thoroughly rinse the elements themselves, after which the car will be able to work stably.

The VAZ 2107 clutch is designed to connect the engine crankshaft and the gearbox input shaft with the possibility of a short-term interruption of torque transmission. The reasons for its failure can be very diverse. Nevertheless, all of them can be easily diagnosed and eliminated on their own.

Clutch mechanism device VAZ 2107

The VAZ 2107 clutch is a rather complex mechanism, consisting of several dozen elements. The reasons for its failure can be very different. However, all of them can be divided into two groups:

1. Defects in the clutch mechanism itself. These include malfunctions of the driven part of the clutch, pressure device, basket, flywheel, clutch on / off fork.
2. Defects in the hydraulic drive of the clutch mechanism. They can be caused by leakage of the working fluid, the formation of an air plug in it, as well as malfunctions of the main or working cylinders (GCC and RCS) and the pedal mechanism.

The clutch, like any other part of the car, has a limited service life. First of all, it depends on the skill of the driver, therefore it is not regulated by the manufacturer. To increase the service life of the clutch, it is necessary to adjust it in time, monitor the level of the working fluid, avoid off-road driving, and learn how to properly use the clutch.

It must be remembered that, in addition, the clutch is a safety device that protects the transmission from serious damage when the rear wheels are blocked by various obstacles. The car got into a quagmire, the drive wheels got stuck, the engine power is enough to turn the stuck tires. In this case, the clutch will begin to slip, protecting the box, cardan and rear axle from damage. Yes, the lining of the driven disk will burn out. Yes, the clutch will overheat, which can warp the steel flats or weaken the spring plates. But more expensive units will be protected from breakdowns.

On classic VAZ models, a dry, permanently closed single-plate clutch is installed.. It includes two main elements:

1. Leading part. It consists of a driven disk, the splined part of which transmits rotation to the gearbox due to friction between the friction linings and the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate.
2. Non-separable leading node (basket). The basket is attached to the flywheel and consists of a pressure plate and a diaphragm pressure spring.

In classic VAZ models, a single-disk dry permanently closed clutch is used: 1 - flywheel; 2 - driven clutch disc; 3 - clutch basket; 4 - release bearing with clutch; 5 - clutch hydraulic reservoir; 6 - hose; 7 - the main cylinder of the clutch release hydraulic drive; 8 - clutch pedal servo spring; 9 - return spring of the clutch pedal; 10 - limiting screw of the clutch pedal travel; 11 - clutch pedal; 12 - hydraulic clutch release pipeline; 13 - fork ball joint; 14 - clutch release fork; 15 - release spring for the clutch release fork; 16 - hose; 17 - working cylinder of the clutch release hydraulic drive; 18 - clutch bleeder

The clutch mechanism must be reliable, durable, able to dampen fluctuations in engine torque. The clutch has a hydraulic drive, consisting of:

• clutch master cylinder;
• clutch slave cylinder;
• clutch on/off forks;
• release bearing;
• foot pedal.

Reasons for replacing and adjusting the clutch VAZ 2107

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process. Therefore, before replacing, you should consider adjusting the mechanism.

Clutch replacement

To install a new clutch, you will need a viewing hole, overpass or lift. It is important to detect signs in time that indicate the need to replace the clutch (it is impossible to replace it on the road), and drive the car to a garage or car service. Driving with a defective clutch is very dangerous - you can get into an accident when crossing a railway crossing or main road.

The entire VAZ 2107 clutch is changing, so a kit is sold in car dealerships, consisting of a driven disk, a basket and a release bearing. You should think about replacing the clutch in the following cases:

• the car rises heavily uphill with the accelerator pedal pressed to the end, while the smell of burning is felt - these are signs of slipping of the driven part of the clutch;
• when the clutch is disengaged, noises appear in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe flywheel housing - this indicates a malfunction of the release bearing;
• when starting the car, the first speed is hardly turned on (the box “growls”) - this is a sign of the clutch not fully disengaged (the clutch leads);
• when accelerating, the car starts to twitch, rattling sounds are heard - the reason for this is usually broken damper springs or loose nests for them on the driven disk, deformation of the segments or loosening of the rivets on the hub.

Any noise, vibration, whistling in the clutch area requires a more detailed diagnosis and diagnosis.

clutch adjustment

If the clutch pedal has become too soft, fails, does not return to its original position, then most likely air has entered the system or the hydraulic drive adjustments have been violated. Clutch slippage after prolonged use usually indicates a clutch failure. It will definitely have to be changed.

If the clutch leads, that is, the gears are switched with difficulty, in about half of the cases the reason is a mismatch with the required values:

• backlash between the rod and the piston in the working cylinder;
• clearance between the release bearing and the fifth basket;
• free and working stroke of the foot pedal.

Diagnostics of malfunctions of clutch VAZ 2107

External manifestations of a VAZ 2107 clutch malfunction are:

• difficulty shifting gears;
• slippage of the driven part;
• vibration;
• thrust bearing whistle;
• tight pedal assembly;
• the pedal does not return to its original position after pressing;
• other signs.

Clutch slip

You can check if the clutch is slipping as follows. The third or fourth speed is turned on and the handbrake is pulled. If the motor hums, the car does not move, and the smell of burning has appeared in the cab, it means that the driven part of the clutch is slipping. This can happen for several reasons.

Clutch leads

If the clutch leads, it becomes very difficult to engage first gear, and when the clutch is disengaged, the car does not stop and continues to move. When the pedal is pressed, the driven disc remains clamped, that is, it does not disconnect from the flywheel and pressure plate. This situation may be due to the following points.

Jerks when starting and shifting gears

If the car starts to twitch when starting off and changing gears, the following situations may be the reasons for this:

In these cases, the following measures are taken:

• complete clutch replacement
• repair of hydraulic drive devices;
• removal of air from the hydraulic drive by pumping.

Noise when disengaged

Sometimes when you press the clutch pedal, a sharp whistle and rattle is heard. The reason for this may be:

Noise when clutch engaged

If, when the clutch is engaged (pedal released), rattling, clanging is heard, vibration of the gear lever is felt, this may be due to the following malfunctions.

Pedal failure and lack of clutch

If, when pressed, the pedal fails, but then returns to its original position, the clutch stops working for the following reasons:

1. Large amounts of air entered the system through loose threaded connections. Fittings are pulled, operating fluid is added, and the hydraulic drive is pumped to remove air.
2. There was a leakage of the working fluid through the worn O-rings of the MCC or RCS. Using repair kits for cylinders, protective caps and rubber seals are changed, the working fluid is added to the desired level. After that, the clutch is pumped.
3. Bent or broken thrust bearing yoke. The fork is replaced with a new one.

Clutch disengages but pedal does not return to original position

A situation may arise when, when the pedal is pressed, the clutch is disengaged, and the pedal itself does not return to its original position. This may happen in the following cases.

tight grip

The rigidity of the clutch depends on the condition of the basket damper springs. If they have lost elasticity, the pedal will become very tight. It is necessary to make considerable efforts so that the GCC piston can create pressure that allows the release bearing to press on the tabs and release the driven disk. In this case, the basket must be replaced with a new one.

The initial softness or hardness of the clutch depends on the manufacturer. The owners of the VAZ 2107 speak positively about Starco, Kraft, SACHS, Avto LTD, etc. A tight grip is very inconvenient when driving in traffic jams, when the left leg is constantly in motion.

Clutch disengages at start or end of pedal travel

If the clutch disengages at the beginning of the pedal stroke, it means that there is no free play. The problem is eliminated by reducing the pedal stop offset, measured with a ruler. On the contrary, with increased free play, the clutch is disengaged at the very end of pressing the pedal. In this situation, the length of the RCS rod is adjusted. A large free play indicates a decrease in the thickness of the lining of the driven disk. Often in such cases it is necessary to replace the clutch.

Clutch adjustment VAZ 2107

Clutch adjustment is a mandatory step after troubleshooting or replacement. When dismantling the gearbox, basket, driven disk, the RCS rod is usually unscrewed, therefore, after assembly, the adjustment must be carried out again. This is also necessary if during the operation of the car, for one reason or another, the clutch on / off mechanism is broken. It's pretty easy to make adjustments yourself. This will require a viewing hole, overpass or lift.

Tools and materials

• open-end wrenches for 8, 10, 13 and 17;
• measuring ruler or building corner with divisions;
• pliers;
• pincers "Cobra";
• water repellent WD-40.

The clutch adjustment is carried out after pumping the hydraulic drive.

Pedal free play adjustment

Pedal free play should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. It is regulated from the passenger compartment by changing the reach of the clutch pedal limiter.

The procedure for this is as follows

Fork free play adjustment

The free travel of the fork rod is the gap between the release bearing and the fifth diaphragm spring of the pressure plate. Its adjustment is carried out on a viewing hole or lift as follows.

Fork Stem Adjustment

The threaded part of the stem is not protected from dirt and moisture, so the adjusting nut and locknut may not immediately unscrew. It is recommended that after cleaning the stem of dirt, apply WD-40 to the threaded part. Then it is suggested to perform the following steps.

1. Holding the adjusting nut with a 17 wrench, loosen the lock nut by 2–3 turns with a 13 wrench.
2. We stop the stem with Cobra pliers and, turning the adjusting nut with a key of 17, set the free play of the stem within 4–5 mm.
3. We tighten the locknut with a 13 wrench, holding the stem from turning with the Cobra pliers.

   

   After adjustment, when tightening the locknut with a 13 wrench (c), the adjusting nut is held with a 17 wrench (b), and the rod flats with Cobra pliers (a)

• start and warm up the engine to operating temperature;
• depress the clutch pedal and engage first gear;
• disengage first gear and engage reverse.

A properly adjusted clutch should squeeze out easily, without jamming. Speeds turn on without difficulty and noise. When driving, slipping of the driven disk should not be observed.

Video: DIY clutch adjustment VAZ 2107

A faulty clutch can cause a lot of trouble for the owners of the VAZ 2107. Therefore, experts recommend constantly listening to extraneous noise, knocks, vibrations when shifting gears while driving. Self-adjusting the hydraulic drive is quite simple. This will require only a minimum set of locksmith tools and careful adherence to the advice of professionals.