Do-it-yourself car with internal combustion engine on radio control. How to make a radio-controlled car yourself? The main characteristics of petrol cars on radio control

08.03.2020

The idea of creating a radio-controlled car appeared a long time ago. But the implementation of this idea in plastic and metal all the time interfered with some objective reasons. Firstly, the complete lack of experience in designing and building such a model (my hobby is aircraft modeling, and the arrangement and operation of some components of car models, the types of materials used, engines, batteries, the selection of a gearbox, etc., I imagined very vaguely). Secondly, there is a complete lack of literature on this topic. Thirdly, the lack of components (motors, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). Surprisingly, the last problem was resolved quickly and easily. I work at a computer center, and the guys who know about my passion for modeling, somehow gave me some decommissioned printing mechanisms from printers and magnetic tape drives. From all these "pieces of iron" I managed to pick up several pairs of gears with different gear ratios, several high-quality steel shafts for the axles and small bearings. With literature, it was also quite simple: I reviewed all the magazines "Modelist-constructor" in my own room and in the library, and found several articles that were interesting to me. To begin with, it was decided to build the simplest model (without differential, without depreciation, without bearings, the engine - from the car door lock blocking mechanism, power supply - 8-10 batteries STs-0.55 A / h).

After a closer acquaintance with the catalog and models of TAMIYA, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop drawings again. Due to the rather high complexity of the components of branded models (almost all parts are cast and of complex configuration), a transmission containing many parts, low strength and wear resistance of mechanisms (please note that this is my subjective opinion), I don’t even design an all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis had tried. The chassis from the Formula 1 model served as the prototype; the model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet fiberglass, steel, duralumin, caprolactam, microporous rubber. I made the differential according to the description in the "Modeler-Constructor", the front suspension is similar to the original one, but made of fiberglass, the regulator is home-made, mechanical. During the operation, there were some nuances that did not suit me. Firstly, the complete insecurity of the wheels from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension arms several times and the rear axle axle a couple of times. Secondly, a very dense arrangement of mechanisms under a small volume body, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of components. Thirdly, the material for the differential parts was unsuccessfully chosen, and his work did not suit me.

Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience in the creation and operation of such models, a slightly different version of the chassis was developed. The changes affected mainly the type of chassis (for a closed body), the layout of the nodes, some parts of the differential, the steering gear protection unit. It is quite difficult for me to give an objective assessment of my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to the TAMIYA models, the chassis is faster (however, the comparison was made visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard, without additional options). Parts and mechanisms are simpler than branded ones, in case of breakage they are easily restored or repaired.

Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with branded components (wheels, differential parts, etc.). But I think that by changing the dimensions and configuration of some parts of the front suspension and rear axle, it is quite possible to use standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., produced by firms. In addition, by changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the chassis base and track, that is, to make the chassis fit any closed-type body. And finally, the chassis did not cost me $200 plus about the same for tuning (maybe the prices are lower somewhere, but we have such).

In this material, I in no way want to belittle the merits and achievements of manufacturers of model products, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and accessories for them or claim novelty of ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the magazine "Modeler-constructor", however, I sometimes used other materials, changed and finalized something, taking into account the details that I had. In general, what I did, I bring to your attention.

Brief technical characteristics

Chassis type	back-drug
Base	260 mm
Rear wheel width	200 mm
Front wheel width	188 mm
Ground clearance	14 mm
Chassis weight	700 g
Transmission type	single-stage open gearbox; K=1:4.2 or K=1:4.5
engine's type	Mabuchi 540, Speed 600 different modifications
Front suspension	independent, depreciation - fiberglass plate
Rear suspension	dependent, depreciation - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper
Batteries	7.2 Vx1400mA/h plus 4.8Vx260mA/h for onboard equipment

Design Description

Chassis base

Functionally, the chassis consists of three main components: chassis base, rear axle with damping system and front suspension with damping system and protective clutch. The base of the chassis is part 1, cut out of fiberglass 2.5 mm thick. On this part, sidewalls 3 and 4 are installed in the corresponding grooves, which form a box-pencil case for accommodating power batteries. After installing these parts, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. On racks 5 (material - duralumin or aluminum alloy) the "second floor" of the chassis 2 is mounted, on which the steering machines, the speed controller, the attachment points of the oil shock absorber and the protective clutch of the steering machine are located. It should be noted that the grooves of part 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewalls 3 (these places are not glued!). This assembled design increases the strength of the battery box. Brackets 6 are installed in front of the rear wheels, which play the role of protective "lugs" and, in addition, body fastening pins are installed in them. In the front of the chassis, the body can be attached to similar pins installed in the area of the bumper bumper. The bumper configuration depends on the nose of the prototype and is not shown in the drawings. Also, the attachment points of the body pins are not shown. Their location depends on the contours of the hood of the prototype. Due to the fact that fiberglass is inferior in strength to carbon fiber, lightening windows are cut out only in the parts that form the box for the power battery.

Rear axle with damping system

The rear axle is made as a single easily removable unit, which increases the convenience of repair and maintenance work. The base of the bridge (see section A-A) is a fiberglass plate 3 2.5 mm thick (duralumin 2 mm thick can be used). The motor mount 1 and the left wheel strut 2, made of duralumin 6 mm thick, are attached to it with M3 screws. The upper frame of the rear axle 4 is screwed on top with the same screws. Bearing cups 5 (right) and 6 (left) are attached to the motor frame and the rack. The right one is machined from steel and brought to the dimensions shown in the drawing; the left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,

closed type. Axle 20, connecting the rear wheels, is made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. In the place of installation of the left wheel in the axle, an M2.5 hole was made for the pin. In the hub of the left wheel 17, a groove 2.5 mm wide is propylene. When installing the wheel on the axle, the pin enters the cut of the hub and thus prevents the wheel from turning on the axle. The right wheel is connected to the driven gear 11 (the drawing on the left shows the gear that I found, on the right - it is after completion) through a ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the sockets of the cylindrical insert 10 (the cylindrical insert is connected to the gear with six M1.5 screws; holes for the screws are drilled around a circle with a diameter of 37 mm through 60o; a bronze plain bearing 12 is pressed into the insert) . On both sides, the coupling is compressed by hardened steel washers 9 (washer size 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is glued into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the thrust disc 8. The thrust disc is mounted on the axle through a split bronze bushing 7. To absorb axial forces from the pressure of the balls, a thrust ball bearing 15 is used (made of steel bar; after turning the groove under the balls of the part are hardened). The forces in the clutch are adjusted by tightening the nut with a nylon insert 19. To prevent axial displacements, a bushing 21 is installed on the axis 20, which is fixed on the axis with an M3 screw. The right wheel hub 13 and the left disc 16 are machined from caprolactam; two bronze plain bearings 14 are pressed into the right hub. Wheel tires are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial play, a distance washer 18 is used.

The rear axle is hung on the chassis base through a fiberglass shock absorber plate 22 using three M3 screws. On the basis of the chassis, this part is fixed with an M4 screw and a clamping washer 23, which is screwed onto the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the friction damping assembly. The latter consists of disk-shaped friction washers 25 and springs. The friction force is regulated by moving the sleeve 27 along the axis, the fixation of which is carried out by the M3 screw. With the lower support 26, the spring rests on an additional spring bar 28, which is mounted on racks 29 on the base of the chassis 1.

To dampen vibrations that occur during suspension operation, a damping spring-oil shock absorber is installed. It is attached to part 2 using a duralumin bracket (Node I). With the upper frame of the rear axle 4, the shock absorber is connected by a ball joint (Node II).

Front suspension

The front suspension was originally simplified (section Г-Г), and consisted of the upper and lower strips 1 made of foil fiberglass, interconnected by racks 2 and attached to the base of the chassis 1 through rubber washers (Node III). The swivel arm consisted of parts 3, 4, 5, assembled into one unit by soldering. Depreciation was carried out with the help of a spring and by moving part 3 along axis 6. On axis 6, grooves were made for lock washers. Two bronze plain bearings 9 were pressed into the wheel disc 8.

But I didn’t like the work of such a suspension, and with the help of an article from the Modeler-Constructor magazine, another suspension was developed and manufactured (the details are shown in the drawing to the right of the red dashed line) The base is node 1, assembled from parts 1A, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Parts 1B are glued to 1A, for greater strength they are tightened with M2 screws; item 2 is screwed with M2 screws. The lower suspension arm 3 consists of a base 3B and two sidewalls 3A (glass fiber 2 mm thick); after fitting and assembly, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. The upper lever 4 consists of an earring 4A, a fork 4B and an axle 4B. Material for earrings and

forks - duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 with axles 15; in their places, the axles are fixed with lock washers 16. Using the same axle, a pivot post 5 is attached to the lower arm (a factory-made part, but it is quite possible to make it from duralumin, simplifying it a bit). The rack 5 is attached to the upper arm 4 with the help of a 4B fork and an M3 screw. Earring 4A is attached to node 1 as shown in view B (axis of rotation 15 is fixed with lock washers 16, PTFE bushings 14 are used to prevent axial displacement of the earring). The rotary lever 6 is a piece of duralumin, a steel axis 7 is inserted into it with some interference, after which a vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the axis of rotation 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a lock washer.

Wheel disks 9 are machined from caprolactam. Hubs 10 - made of duralumin, are attached to the disks with three M2.5 screws. Bearings - 13x6x3, closed version. Tires of wheels - from microporous rubber.

Depreciation is carried out using a plate 11 made of fiberglass, which is pressed against the base 1B with an M3 screw and a duralumin washer 12. The free ends of the plate rest on fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are dressed on the axis 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to the thickness and width of the plate 11 quite over a wide range.

The servo clutch is the assembly shown in section B-B. In comparison with the node published in the "Modeler-Constructor", it has been slightly redone. The base is a steel axle 1, on which a bronze part 3 is mounted in tension. After that, a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is drilled in these parts, a pin is inserted and soldered. Thus, parts 1 and 3 are tightly connected. Rocking chair 4 is soldered to part 2, and the assembly is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axle 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the hole in base 1). The second bearing is a nylon bushing 5 installed in part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm on part 5 must be selected so as to ensure a minimum play of the axis 1 of the protective sleeve, but at the same time ease of rotation of the assembly. The clutch is driven by a duralumin rocker 7.

Conclusion

A few words about the model itself. The prototype was the Ferrari F40, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed based on the actual dimensions of the car, on a scale of 1:10. Body - fiberglass, glued to the blockhead. Control equipment - Graupner FM -314, steering machines - standard 508 (similar in size to HS 422 Hitec).

I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the course of my thoughts when developing and manufacturing the chassis. It is quite possible that some nodes could have been made differently, other materials or design solutions could have been used. I want to give a little advice to those who want to repeat this model. First you need to select components (gears, shock absorber, swing arms, etc.; it is quite possible that it will not be possible to select parts according to the dimensions indicated on the drawings) and materials for home-made parts. After that, you may have to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then start manufacturing. If someone has any questions, suggestions, criticism - I will be glad to talk on the forum.

Becoming a happy owner of a powerful and reliable toy controlled from a distance is a dream not only for many children, but also for some parents. Today, manufacturers are ready to offer a variety of entertainment that can surprise even the most sophisticated young consumers. Radio-controlled equipment can be a wonderful gift, and if properly maintained, it can last quite a long time.

Among a large number of models, radio-controlled gasoline cars deserve special attention, since the power and reliability indicators of these products are among the highest. The features of these popular toys, their technical characteristics and types will be discussed further.

What is a remote control petrol machine?

First of all, it is worth saying that such a product is almost complete, but only a reduced copy of a conventional vehicle. These cars also run on gasoline, while the maximum speeds are really impressive: some models easily accelerate to 80 km / h. However, it would be useful to note the fact that such mechanisms periodically require repair, just like ordinary cars, so the process of "driving" should be approached with all seriousness.

Of course, it is not recommended to use such toys indoors, since their full potential can only be appreciated in open areas, for example, on paved roads.

The main characteristics of petrol cars on radio control

There are many varieties of these models: these are cars for road racing, and buggies, and samples designed exclusively for drifting, which will be discussed a little later. This or that radio-controlled machine with a gasoline engine has its own characteristics.

So, a distinctive feature of these models is the remote control. For radio-controlled samples, its maximum radius of interaction with the machine is usually about 150 m.

Another unique detail is the gasoline engine, the power of which can be different. The scope of its operation depends on what type of motor is installed in a particular model.

If we compare radio-controlled gasoline cars in size, then we can safely distinguish both children's reduced products and large toys that are more suitable for adult lovers of such equipment.

What should determine the choice of a gasoline radio-controlled car?

In order for the purchased equipment to bring only joy, you should first carefully study the entire range of products and stop at the most suitable one. When choosing a typewriter for a child, it is necessary to be guided primarily by his age, but you should also think about how he will use the toy. If the main requirement for the product is speed, then it is best to choose a road model, and an off-road model is ideal for overcoming obstacles.

The younger the child, the easier it should be to manage. It is better to refuse to purchase highly sensitive devices so that the owner of the machine does not experience problems. At the same time, you should pay attention to the size of the product, since some radio-controlled gasoline cars are quite voluminous, which can be very inconvenient for a small child. Large models are ideal for adults.

Proper operation of a gasoline machine on a remote control

In order for such a toy to last as long as possible, you need to responsibly approach its content. Do not forget that it is very problematic for a child to cope with such a technique, so it is better if there is always an adult nearby. Of course, all repair and maintenance work (changing fuel, oil, lubricating parts, etc.) should also be carried out by parents, not only because of the risk of equipment breakdown, but also because harmful fuel vapors are dangerous for the child's body.

Many radio-controlled gasoline cars are sold unassembled, so it is extremely important to follow the attached instructions when assembling such products. In addition, safety rules exclude any play near fire sources and open water.

Characteristics and advantages of radio-controlled cars for drifting

As mentioned earlier, fuel-powered equipment powered by a remote control may differ depending on its purpose. So, radio-controlled gasoline cars for drifting are very popular among consumers. Both adults and children like these models, and their difference from ordinary high-speed toys lies in the following technical characteristics:

such gasoline cars are equipped with special shock absorbers with drift springs;
the tires of these products do not have a tread pattern and are more rigid than conventional models;
as a rule, the basis of the body of such a toy is shockproof plastic, as well as a durable bumper that protects equipment from impacts;
the special design of the suspension allows you to perform various technical elements.

How not to make a mistake when choosing a gas drift car?

RC toy cars designed specifically for this purpose should not be bought for a very young child, since the minimum age of the owner should be 3 years.

In addition, it should be remembered that there are no completely universal models. This means that when purchasing a toy car for drifting, you should not expect any other properties from it, such as high speeds or high cross-country ability.

Another important point is the type of built-in motor. The radio-controlled gasoline car used for drifting (photos of various samples can always be found in specialized publications) must have a very powerful motor so that the loads exerted on the model do not harm it. The complete set of a new product, as a rule, assumes that the toy is ready to ride without the need to purchase additional parts.

The main parts of a gasoline machine on a remote control

Parents do not always have the opportunity to buy an expensive toy for their child in a store. But if we talk about gasoline cars, then such products can be made independently. The design of these toys is in many ways similar to the structure of a standard car, so for many drivers the installation process will be clear.

To figure out how to make a radio-controlled gasoline car, you should initially decide what parts will be needed for this work. So, the following structural parts are included in the package of a standard toy:

shockproof body;
gasoline engine of the desired power;
strong wheels;
chassis;
a set of tools in the form of screwdrivers of different sizes.

Assembly Features

Do-it-yourself gasoline radio-controlled cars are easy to make. After acquiring the necessary materials, you should do the installation.

When attaching the front wheels to the frame, make sure they turn easily. It is best to choose rubber tires, since it is this material that has the highest quality grip on the roadway.

The body for the car can simply be purchased at the store, but many owners want to create a unique toy and come up with their own sketch of the body, which is subsequently made with the help of a specialist.

When choosing a radio unit for control, you should not save on it, since the quality of this part directly affects the convenience of controlling the vehicle.

Of course, one of the most important components of the machine is its engine. Gasoline samples require careful maintenance, but their power ratings are the highest.

Thus, it is safe to say that it is quite possible to assemble a radio-controlled car that operates with the help of fuel with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and the entire list of necessary parts for this.

With your own hands - for many, this phrase is associated primarily with a jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other "handmaker" tools. It is really possible to make your own model from absolute scratch - turning every detail yourself, but this is a rather complicated, time-consuming and very demanding process on your own skills. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and more accessible option: how collect radio-controlled car at home.

How it works?

Modern radio-controlled models can be divided into two large groups:

RTR. Completely ready to use machines. That is, I took the model out of the box, put the battery in - and forward to the races;
kit. Delivery option for advanced users: instead of an assembled car, a set of spare parts comes, to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, as a result, assembling the model of your dreams on your own.

Note : the option in which you buy all the spare parts separately is not much different from. It’s just that you don’t use ready-made kits, but, nevertheless, you use factory parts.

Why do you need a do-it-yourself RC model at all? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, to make your car unique. Moreover, assembling from finished parts is less demanding on skill than "file work".

What spare parts will be needed?

As a rule, if you have chosen some kind of Kit, then only the chassis and body are included in its package. Additionally needed ( Considering an electric machine):

Engine;
Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
wheels;
Battery;
Discs, inserts, etc.

Ultimately, it all depends on the specific kit for assembling a radio-controlled car model with your own hands: some, for example, do not have a body, and it is purchased separately.

Is it difficult to assemble the Kit?

It is at the assembly stage of Kit’a that there are usually no difficulties: the parts are numbered, detailed instructions are included with them - do everything carefully, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise when combining the chassis with other components, so once again we advise: before buying an engine and other spare parts attentively study the selected Kit and its characteristics. An excellent choice would be to read thematic forums: surely someone has already worked with this Kit - and, most likely, this someone will willingly share their experience.

Plastic or aluminum?

The answer to this question largely depends on the brand in question, but more on that below. If we compare "in a vacuum" - and good plastic with good aluminum - the picture looks something like this:

Plastic: Lighter, absorbs shock better, recovers shape after collisions. But, at the same time, with too strong a blow, the plastic cracks and tears, it will be almost impossible to repair it - the part is to be replaced. In addition, the seats of shafts and bearings become loose on plastic parts over time, which causes backlashes - you have to change the part again;
Aluminum. It is repairable and practically does not deform over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually quite brittle and literally crumbles at a level of stress that high-quality plastic will not even notice. And it costs about the same.

Parts manufacturers

There are three most interesting brands:

RPM. The best plastic on the market. Perfect quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what you need to make an indestructible rc model with your own hands. The brand has only two drawbacks: a high price and a clear sharpening for American cars like, most likely, RPM spare parts cannot be supplied to the “Chinese”;
Integy. Aluminum parts, a good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal to plastic, it is quite possible to think about choosing this brand. And yes, aluminum looks great!
Pro-line. Another great - and quite versatile - brand. The best choice if you are going to work with non-American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a lot of awards, a very wide range and an acceptable pricing policy.

General conclusions on do-it-yourself cars

If you carefully follow the instructions and take your time, there is nothing prohibitively difficult in self-assembly of a RC model. The main thing is to use high-quality components from a well-known brand, they fall into place seamlessly. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, having received the first experience, raise the bar of custom.

Not only children are interested in toys now. Many adults buy replicas of famous brands of cars or look for radio-controlled models of cars. Among the proposed range of toy stores, it is not always possible to find an option that will completely suit the client. In some cases, it is much better to make a radio-controlled car model yourself, your child will appreciate your efforts. A hand-made present from improvised means is much more valuable than a bright car bought in an expensive toy store.

You can make your own radio-controlled car using our sequential algorithm. Modeling from one finished car model to another is very similar to the actions of craftsmen in a car repair shop.

To create a controlled car with your own hands, you need to have the following elements:

Electric motor;
Small car body;
Rugged chassis;
Removable wheels;
Mini screwdriver set;
Detailed instructions for accessories.

Undoubtedly, self-collection of cars on the remote control has a lot of winning advantages, namely:

Saving money, while you will have the model of the machine that you wanted;
You can choose the model you need from the proposed range of spare parts and body types;
You decide - to make a mini-car on a wired remote control, or use radio control, which will have to spend a large amount.

After you decide on the model, perform the following algorithm of actions:

We select the chassis for our model, pay attention to the quality of all the small details. No inclusions and notches on the surface of the plastic should not be visible, the front wheels should move smoothly;
When selecting wheels, pay special attention to models with rubber, since all-plastic models have a poor quality grip surface;
Approach the choice of the motor with all seriousness, since this is the main heart of the mini-car. There are 2 types of mini-motors for cars - electric and gasoline. Electric motors are affordable and easy to use, they are powered by a battery, it is very easy to give a new charge. Gasoline options have more power, but they are more expensive and require delicate care. They need special fuel. For beginners in the field of modeling toy cars, electric motors are suitable;
You need to decide on the type of control - wired or wireless. Wired control costs less, but the car will only move within a limited radius, while the RC model will move within range of the antenna. The radio unit is much more efficient for mini-machines;
The body of the future car also deserves special attention. You can choose a ready-made case or make it according to your personal sketch.

After all the parts are purchased, you can start assembling.

We attach a motor and a radio unit to the chassis. We mount the antenna. Together with the accessories, detailed instructions for assembling the entire machine should be included. Setting up the motor. After everything is working properly, fix the durable body of the mini-car to the chassis. Now you can decorate the created model as you wish. Let's make a machine with a powerful motor.

Many will find the idea of building a car with a motor for their child very strange, since there are many ready-made options on store shelves. But if you are striving to show individuality and earn authority in the eyes of your child, then you can take on the assembly of a car with a motor, although this is not easy to do, but the result will justify all efforts.

The best option is to start assembling a radio-controlled model. It will require certain skills and knowledge of small electrical engineering, because this mini-machine is a rather complex mechanism, despite its compact size. All important parts must be purchased.

We begin to study the control panel. The movement of the car, the ability to overcome obstacles, and make beautiful maneuvers directly depend on the correct assembly. Many car modellers use a three-channel pistol-type remote control, which you can assemble yourself.

You can follow a simple path - get a special designer, where the kit contains all the necessary parts, their detailed diagrams and final drawings of finished models.

Engines for future radio-controlled models can be electric or internal combustion. Internal combustion engines produce gasoline or incandescent, operating on the composition of methanol, oil and nitromethane, a special gas-alcohol mixture. Approximate volumes of such engines range from 15 to 35 cm3.

The approximate volume of the fuel tank for such machines is 700 cm3. It provides the engine with uninterrupted operation for 45 minutes. Many petrol models are rear-wheel drive and have independent suspension.

Today on sale there are many collapsible models designed for car modellers. Among the leading manufacturers of mini-cars, it is worth highlighting ABC, Protech, FG Modelsport (Germany), HPI, HIMOTO (USA). Their main feature is the similarity of mini-models with real prototypes. After completing the assembly, according to the attached instructions, install a charged on-board battery, a battery in the transmitter, pour a small amount of gasoline into the tank. You can safely launch your iron horse on the road.

Modeling cars on your own is an exciting hobby, especially when the result exceeds all expectations. First you need to purchase a bench model of the Range Rover, from which we will make a jeep that freely dissects off-road. We also need to take working electronics from an old jeep, we will fix it in an SUV.

We make bridges and differentials from copper pipes with a soldering iron. We attach it to the powerful wheels of an SUV. Make sure that all connections are firmly soldered. We closed the sharpening differentials with pill caps. From above, we cover the entire junction of the differential with ordinary car enamel. We put bridges on the frame and perform tie rods. Tie rods can be taken from an old disassembled machine. After installing the plastic bottom, we cut out a hole there necessary for installing the gearbox, cardan shafts. In the gearbox there is an engine from an airplane, also quite powerful. The model does not move in jerks, but smoothly, this is the most important condition for such models. Making a gearbox is quite difficult, but here you can show all your ingenuity. We fix the gearbox tightly to the bottom, we fasten the bottom to the frame. Now comes the installation of electronics, shock absorbers, battery. At the end, there is painting the body of the car, installing the main components, headlights and much more. We apply the paint in 4 layers for ordinary plastic. The author found the original photo of the car and made a mini-copy of it in a toy version. So that the model is not afraid of moisture, he covered the electronics with a special compound. To give the effect of antiquity, I sanded the outer surface of the car after painting. The battery in this model is enough for 25 minutes of continuous riding.

To create such a simple model, we need the following list of small parts:

Microcircuit for a radio-controlled car;
Remote Control;
Steering element;
Soldering iron with solder;
Compact electrical device;
Battery with charger.

The procedure for this is as follows:

We assemble the lower part of the car, that is, the suspension;
For this purpose, a strong plastic plate is required, it will be the basis for this model;
A microcircuit for a radio-controlled car is attached to it, we solder a wire to it, which serves as an antenna;
Solder the wires from the electric motor;
We fix the battery wires to the correct points of the microcircuit;
We fix the wheels taken from a simple children's car;
All parts can be fixed, so long as they do not fall off during use.

We fix the steering elements, it is impossible to do this with glue alone. The front axle must be wrapped with electrical tape for a stronger fixation. We fix the battery on the microcircuit. Now the machine is ready for testing. It must definitely function. The control of such a machine is carried out using a remote control. Following this instruction, you can easily make a new machine on the control. If you want to design with your own hands, then this guide is more than ever useful. A hand-made toy pleases much more than a hand-made model.

To assemble this model, we need the following components:

A simple model of a machine of any production;
VAZ parts for opening doors, 12-volt battery;
Equipment for the organization of radio control;
Durable batteries with chargers;
Radiator;
Electronic measuring equipment;
A small soldering iron with solder;
Locksmith fixtures;
A piece of rubber to provide reinforcement to the bumper.

An approximate scheme for collecting a radio-controlled model is shown in the figure.

We turn to reading and collecting the scheme, to the exciting process of creating a unique mini-car. First, we collect the suspension. We take VAZ connections and gears to assemble the gearbox. The studs and housing need to be threaded to hang the gears and solenoids. We connect the gearbox to the power supply, check it, and then fix it on the machine. To effectively protect the system from overheating, we install a radiator. The plate from it can be firmly fixed with ordinary bolts. Next comes the installation of power driver chips and radio control. We completely install the body of the car. Our mini car is ready for the real test.

Do you have a radio controlled car? Do you want to make it more maneuverable, but don't know how to do it?

Do not overload the model with additional systems and unnecessary small details. Sound signals, luminous headlights are all conveniences, they look great, but the independent process of assembling a radio-controlled car already has certain difficulties. The complication of parts can adversely affect the important running parts of the car. The main point that you need to focus on is the creation of a high-quality suspension, ensuring reliable signal transmission.

To improve maneuverability and optimize speed parameters, fine-tuning the system during test runs is suitable. These recommendations will help you understand the business of automodelling. You can independently create a machine that will be a real copy of a large model. All the details will be similar, only your version will have everything in a mini format.

Make your son happy - make a car with him on the remote control

You can start with a simple one - to assemble a machine-designer on the remote control. First you need to come up with a project: how your car will look like, how it will move, view other details. To start immediate assembly, you need to prepare not only all the important components of the future iron horse, but also the necessary fixtures. To start an exciting joint lesson with sons, we take the following things:

A small motor can be borrowed from an old vein or household fan;
Sturdy frame;
Mini rubber kit;
Quality suspension for a small chassis;
2 strong axles for fixing the wheels;
Wireless antenna;
Thin wires for connections;
High-quality batteries for the battery or special gasoline;
Assembled signal receiver;
An old control panel, a simple transmitter or an outdated radio unit will do.

From the devices you will need pliers, a small soldering iron, screwdrivers of various diameters.

Assembly order

During the collection process, it may turn out that some of the missing parts will have to be bought in addition or borrowed from the son's old, broken cars. After all, he will sacrifice them for the sake of a cool novelty, right?! We take the frame and body from the old samples of my son's toys. The selected motor is pre-tested for maneuverability and performance. The power of the engine should not go against the weight of the machine, because a weak motor will not pull a heavy structure. Batteries must be unused. The assembly steps are as follows:

First, we assemble a mini-frame;
Then we fix and adjust the serviceable motor;
We introduce batteries or a compact battery;
Next, the antenna is fixed;
The wheels are mounted so that they can turn freely, spinning along with the axle. If this condition is not met, the machine will only move forward and backward.

For the future iron horse, it is better to take rubber tires, as they perform best on open ground. If the assembly process was easy enough, you were able to understand all the intricacies of the initial auto-modeling, then you can make several samples, you can give another copy to the neighbor boy. They will arrange races on the open ground on the street.

Assembling a new unique car is an exciting process that dad and son can spend more than one evening behind. To turn it into a productive business, you can follow the following recommendations, they must be taken into account when assembling a modern toy:

Make a sketch of the future model that you want to assemble or use the ready-made assembly instructions;
Get all the quality parts of the machine;
Additional parts can be taken from old machines or purchased new ones;
Before installation, carefully test the selected motor, this is the heart of the machine;
Don't skimp on batteries for a new model, keep them new and unused;
Firmly fix all the details, according to their sequence;
Study the schemes for creating similar machines in advance to facilitate the assembly process;
Choose a ready-made model or come up with something of your own, unique.

Following these recommendations, you and your child can easily make the selected model of the machine. It is possible to make and collect replicas of original cars when you reach a certain skill level. Putting together a car in the family circle is the best way to effectively organize leisure for yourself and your child.

The machine, assembled with your own hands, will be a valuable present for your children, because real paternal feelings are invested in it. When assembled, the model will drive in the chosen direction and is easy to maneuver. You can learn how to make a simple version of the machine by following the recommendations from the proposed video. Start your journey in the world of car modeling!

This article is a modeler's story about making a homemade RC Range Rover 4x4 from a plastic model. It reveals the nuances of manufacturing axle drives, installing electronics and many other nuances.

So, I decided to make a car model with my own hands!

I bought an ordinary bench model Range Rover in the store. The price of this model is 1500 rubles, in general it is a little expensive, but the model is worth it! Initially I thought about making a hammer, but this model is much more suitable in design.

I had electronics, well, I took some parts from a trophy called "cat" which I had not needed for a long time and was disassembled for parts!

Of course, it was possible to take other prefabricated models as a basis, but I wanted just such an off-road jeep.

It all started with bridges and differentials that I made from copper pipes and soldered with a regular 100w soldering iron. The differentials here are ordinary, the gear is plastic, the rods and drive bones are iron from the trophy.

These tubes can be purchased at any hardware store.

I took the differential gear from a regular printer. I didn’t need him for a long time and now I decided that it was time for him to rest.

Everything turned out pretty reliably, but it’s rather inconvenient to work with a soldering iron!

After I made the differentials, I had to close them with something, I closed them with pill caps.

And painted it with regular car paint. It turned out beautifully, although beauty is hardly needed for a trophy.

Then it was necessary to make steering rods and put bridges on the frame. The frame was included and to my surprise it turned out to be iron, not plastic.

It was not easy to do this, since the scale of the parts is very small and it was not possible to solder here, I had to bolt it. Steering rods I took from the same old trophy that I dismantled.

All parts of the differentials are on bearings. Since I made the model for a long time.

I also ordered a gearbox with a reduction gear, the gear will be switched on by a microservo machine from the remote control.

Well, in general, then I installed a plastic bottom, cut a hole in it, installed a gearbox, cardan shafts, a home-made gearbox, an ordinary collector engine for such a small model, it makes no sense to put a bc and the speed is not important to me.

The engine is from a helicopter, but in the gearbox it is quite powerful.

The most important thing is that the model does not move in jerks, but smoothly without delay, the gearbox was not easy to make, but I had a heap of details, the main thing is ingenuity.

The reducer was screwed to the bottom, it kept perfectly, but to attach the bottom to the frame I had to tinker.

Then I installed electronics, shock absorbers, battery. At first I installed the electronics rather weak and the regulator and the receiver were a single unit, but then I installed everything separately and the electronics were more powerful.

And finally, painting, installation of all the main components, decals, headlights, and more. I painted everything with regular plastic paint in 4 coats then painted the fenders brown and sanded the parts to give a shabby and worn look.

The body of the model and the color are completely original, I found the color on the Internet and the photo of the real car did everything according to the original. This color combination exists on a real car and was painted in this color at the factory.

Well, here are the final photos. I will add a video with the test a little later, and the model turned out to be very passable, the speed was 18 km / h, but I did it not for speed. In general, I am satisfied with my work, and it is up to you to evaluate it.

The machine is not large, the scale is 1x24 in size and there is the whole point of the idea, I wanted a mini trophy for myself.

The model is not afraid of moisture! Germetil himself simply varnished the electronics, very reliably, no moisture is terrible.

Servo machine micro park from the aircraft for 3.5 kg.

The battery lasts for 25 minutes of riding, but I will install more powerful electronics and a battery, because this one is not quite enough.

Even the bumpers are the same as on the original. And fastenings on them too. The drive on it is not 50-50%, but 60-40%.

In general, the Range Rover turned out in a rustic style, I didn’t even think that it would turn out to be so high-quality to paint because I really don’t know how to paint, although there’s nothing difficult!