Until recently, all domestic cars were equipped with a carburetor fuel supply system, the main function of which is to obtain a combustible mixture based on the interaction of gasoline with air, and transfer it further to the cylinders of an internal combustion engine. Some of these systems are still popular today, for example, such as:
- Ozone,
- weber,
- Solex and others.
By the way, the work of all the named carburetors of various brands is based on a similar principle, they are distinguished only by some design features.
In this article, we will talk about the carburetor fuel supply system of the "seven".
General scheme of work and its elements.
The general scheme of operation of the VAZ 2107 carburetor, if, of course, you are not a specialist in the repair of automotive components, you are unlikely to need it. After all, this scheme is quite complicated, for sure, you won’t even remember it. But you can and should know about which systems play an important role in the design of the carburetor, since it is they who distribute the fuel. What are these systems?
- Starting and warming up the car engine.
- System for maintaining a constant fuel level.
- Idling.
- Econostat system (enrichment device).
- Accelerator pump (it provides accelerating dynamics).
- Main dosing system.
Carburetor device VAZ 2107 (1107010).
| 1 | Throttle actuator lever VAZ 2107; |
|---|---|
| 2 | Throttle control lever; |
| 3 | return spring; |
| 4 | The draft of the connections of the drives of the air and throttle dampers; |
| 5 | A lever that limits the opening of the throttle valve of the second chamber; |
| 6 | Linkage lever with air damper; |
| 7 | Pneumatic drive rod; |
| 8 | Lever connected to lever 9 through a spring; |
| 9 | A lever rigidly fixed on the axis of the throttle valve of the second chamber; |
| 10 | Screw limiting the closing of the throttle valve of the second chamber; |
| 11 | |
| 12 | Openings of the transition system of the second chamber: |
| 13 | throttle body; |
| 14 | Carburetor body vaz 2107; |
| 15 | Pneumatic diaphragm; |
| 16 | |
| 17 | Housing of the fuel jet of the transition system of the second chamber; |
| 18 | Carburetor cover vaz 2107; |
| 19 | |
| 20 | Well of the main air jets of the main dosing systems; |
| 21 | Atomizer of the main dosing system of the first chamber; |
| 22 | Air damper; |
| 23 | Choke axle lever; |
| 24 | Telescopic air damper drive rod; |
| 25 | A rod connecting the air damper axis lever to the rail; |
| 26 | Starter rod; |
| 27 | Housing starting device vaz 2107; |
| 28 | Starter cover vaz 2107; |
| 29 | Screw for fastening the air damper cable; |
| 30 | Three-arm lever; |
| 31 | return spring bracket; |
| 32 | micro switch; |
| 33 | Branch pipe for suction of crankcase gases; |
| 34 | Starter adjusting screw; |
| 35 | |
| 36 | |
| 37 | Communication channel of the starting device with the throttle space; |
| 38 | Air jet of the idle system; |
| 39 | Accelerator pump spray vaz 2107; |
| 40 | Emulsion jet of the enrichment system (econostat); |
| 41 | Econostat air jet; |
| 42 | Fuel jet econostat vaz 2107; |
| 43 | Main air jets vaz 2107; |
| 44 | |
| 45 | Float chamber needle valve; |
| 46 | Fuel jet vaz 2107; |
| 47 | Fuel supply pipe to the carburetor; |
| 48 | Float; |
| 49 | |
| 50 | Screw for adjusting the fuel supply by the accelerator pump; |
| 51 | |
| 52 | Accelerator pump drive cam VAZ 2107; |
| 53 | Throttle valve return spring of the first chamber; |
| 54 | Lever drive accelerator pump vaz 2107; |
| 55 | Screw limiting the closing of the throttle valve of the first chamber; |
| 56 | Accelerator pump diaphragm VAZ 2107; |
| 57 | spring cap; |
| 58 | The housing of the fuel jet of the idle system; |
| 59 | Adjusting screw composition (quality) idle mixture; |
| 60 | Pipe for supplying vacuum to the vacuum ignition distribution regulator VAZ 2107; |
| 61 | Branch pipe for vacuum supply from the pneumatic valve; |
| 62 | Idle mixture adjusting screw |
Scheme of the carburetor VAZ 2107 (1107010).
| 1 | Accelerator pump lever; |
|---|---|
| 2 | Adjusting screw for fuel supply by the accelerator pump; |
| 3 | Accelerator pump check valve plug; |
| 4 | float chamber; |
| 5 | Fuel jet of the transition system of the second chamber; |
| 6 | Econostat air jet; |
| 7 | Air jet of the transition system of the second chamber; |
| 8 | Econostat fuel jet; |
| 9 | The main air jet of the second chamber; |
| 10 | Econostat emulsion jet; |
| 11 | Econostat atomizer; |
| 12 | Atomizer of the main dosing system of the second chamber; |
| 13 | Small diffuser of the second chamber; |
| 14 | Accelerator pump spray valve; |
| 15 | Accelerator pump atomizer; |
| 16 | Small diffuser of the first chamber; |
| 17 | Air damper; |
| 18 | Connecting sleeve of the air channel of the starting device; |
| 19 | The main air jet of the first chamber; |
| 20 | Starter air jet; |
| 21 | Choke lever rod; |
| 22 | Starter housing; |
| 23 | Starter rod; |
| 24 | Trigger diaphragm; |
| 25 | Trigger adjustment screw; |
| 26 | Air jet of the idle system; |
| 27 | Needle valve seat; |
| 28 | Needle valve; |
| 29 | Fuel filter; |
| 30 | Float bracket with stop and tongue; |
| 31 | Needle damper ball; |
| 32 | Float; |
| 33 | Fuel jet of the idle system; |
| 34 | The main fuel jet of the first chamber; |
| 35 | Emulsion tube of the first chamber; |
| 36 | Idle mixture adjusting screw; |
| 37 | Forced idle economizer needle; |
| 38 | Idle mixture quality adjustment screw; |
| 39 | Forced idle economizer needle seat; |
| 40 | Throttle valve of the first chamber; |
| 41 | First mixing chamber; |
| 42 | Second mixing chamber; |
| 43 | Throttle valve of the second chamber; |
| 44 | Non-adjustable openings of the transition system of the second chamber; |
| 45 | Emulsion tube of the second chamber; |
| 46 | The main fuel jet of the second chamber; |
| 47 | Check valve accelerator pump; |
| 48 | Bypass jet of the accelerator pump; |
| 49 | accelerator pump diaphragm; |
| 50 | Pneumatic throttle valve of the second chamber; |
| 51 | Pneumatic drive jet located in the first chamber; |
| 52 | Pneumatic jet located in the second chamber; |
| 53 | I Carburetor operation at maximum engine power; |
| 54 | II Operation of the throttle valve actuator of the second chamber; |
| 55 | III Operation of the accelerating pump; |
| 56 | IV Operation of the diaphragm trigger; |
| 57 | V The work of the carburetor during the transition to medium loads; |
| 58 | VI Operation of the carburetor 2107-1107010 at idle. |
How to set up a VAZ 2107 carburetor?
Indeed, with the right approach, having “worked” a little with only one VAZ 2107 carburetor system, you can not only reduce the level of fuel consumption of a car, but also improve its maneuverability. At the same time, the revision itself will not require any significant financial investments from you. For example, it can be done as follows.
- Stock up on a DAAZ repair kit, disassemble the carburetor.
- Take its middle part, where the main diffusers are located, and polish these same diffusers with sandpaper. Next, use a file to polish the small diffusers. All these actions will help to reduce aerodynamic losses at the air inlet.
- We proceed to finalize the throttle valve, for this we make countersunk bolts that secure the damper to its axis. This procedure is carried out as follows: open the damper and, holding it in this open position, file the bolts, then grind its corners. Well, then you do all these actions with the second damper.
- Connecting the middle and bottom of the carburetor, install a new gasket.
- Now it is necessary to carry out the selection of jets: to improve the dynamics of acceleration, the mixture is enriched. So, we replace the 150th main fuel jet in the second chamber with the 162nd one, and install the accelerator pump nozzle in the first chamber instead of the 40th 50th.
- The last step is to install all the elements in their places.
How to clean and set up a VAZ 2107 carburetor - video
Malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 carburetor.
The main drawback of the VAZ 2107 carburetor is poor tightness and rapid wear of its parts. It is for these reasons that all major malfunctions and breakdowns occur. Therefore, in order to avoid such troubles, the carburetor must be checked regularly, namely: blow, clean, flush the fuel filter and accelerator pump. And it is better to do all this by the hands of a professional. Well, if “you are your own master”, then before climbing under the hood, prepare for the work theoretically.
If the lapping is done with high quality, a continuous trace without gaps is formed on the entire sealing surface. After lapping, rinse thoroughly with gasoline and blow out all channels in the cover and body with compressed air. Press the jet into the body until it stops and without distortion. The diaphragm spring must not be heavily compressed or deformed. Replace damaged spring. The threaded hole in the cover for the adjusting screw must not have damaged threads.10. The body sealing ring must not be heavily compressed or torn. If the ring is deformed or the rubber hardened, replace it, otherwise the trigger will not work.
11. The links of the telescopic rod must move relative to each other without jamming by the full amount of travel and also freely return to their original position by the return spring.
12. The stability of the fuel level in the float chamber largely depends on the condition of the fuel valve. The needle 2 of the valve must move freely in the seat 1, so there must be no scratches or burrs on the inner cylindrical surface of the seat 1. If necessary, remove them with fine sandpaper. After processing, the needle should not have excessive lateral play. Burrs on the guide ribs of the needle are not allowed, and there should not be a large output on its working cone. The damping ball 3 must not hang in the depressed position.
Replace badly deformed seat sealing washer.
NOTE
If necessary, replace the needle and its seat at the same time as a set, since if the conical surface of one of the parts is distorted, replacing only the other will not restore the tightness of the mating.
13. The float must be tight and must not have dents. You can check the tightness of the float by lowering it for at least 30 seconds. into hot water. At the site of damage (usually along the seam), air bubbles begin to come out of the heating float. Damage can be soldered by evaporating gasoline from it. After soldering, the mass of the float should be 11.5-12.5 g. If the mass is too large, remove part of the solder without violating the tightness of the float. The surface of the tongue of the float bracket (shown by the arrow) should not have nicks and deep workings at the place of its contact with the damping ball. If necessary, the development can be eliminated by grinding the tongue with zero sandpaper.
14. Emulsion wells and channels of the carburetor body must be completely clean. If washing with acetone or solvent does not remove all contamination, use special reamers for cleaning.
Housing surfaces mating with the cover and throttle body must not have deep nicks and warping. Minor warping at the locations of the threaded holes for the screws for fastening the cover and the passage of the studs for fastening the carburetor, caused by excessive force when tightening the fasteners, eliminate by lapping on sanding paper, as for the carburetor cover, having previously pressed out the adapter bushings of the air-fuel channels from the body.
With a significant non-flatness of the surfaces, try to straighten them with light hammer blows through a soft metal drift and then lap on sanding paper. If in this case it was not possible to eliminate warping, replace the body, since the sealing gaskets will not ensure the tightness of the carburetor joints.
Damage to the threaded holes for fastening the elements of the carburetor body is not allowed. If the holes cannot be repaired by tapping larger diameters with repair fasteners or by any other available means, replace the body or, if such replacement is not possible, the entire carburetor assembly.
NOTE
In order not to damage the thin-walled adapter bushings, firmly insert metal rods or drill shanks of a suitable diameter (2.9 and 3.8 mm for different bushings) into their holes before pressing them out.
15. The channels of small diffusers must be completely clean, and undeformed spring clips are installed in the grooves of the end surfaces mating with the grooves of the carburetor body. Pay attention to the marking applied in the casting on the outer cylindrical surface of the diffusers - the calibration number of the atomizer hole, for example "4.5". In addition, the diffusers of the first (lower in the photo) and the second (upper) chambers differ in the arrangement of transverse brass pins pressed into their housings. When removing the diffusers, remember or draw their location so as not to confuse the diffusers in places when reinstalling. After installation in the carburetor body, small diffusers should sit tightly in its grooves, without play, and should not fall out under the action of their own weight when the carburetor body is turned over.
16. The body of the throttle valves must not have deformation, mechanical damage and stripped threaded holes. The channels and cavities of the body must be clean, and the holes for the throttle valve axes must not have noticeable wear.
NOTE
In case of severe wear of the holes for the throttle valve axles, replace the body assembly with the latter, since the dampers and axles are matched to the body individually and are not completely interchangeable.
17. The branch pipe for supplying vacuum to the vacuum corrector of the ignition distributor and the mixing sleeve of the idling system must be securely pressed into their sockets and not damaged.
18. Examine details of atomizer of the accelerating pump. Damage to the sealing surfaces is not allowed. Replace heavily compressed sealing washers. The non-return ball valve in the fuel supply screw should move easily, without jamming, which is determined by the characteristic knock of the ball, shaking the fuel supply screw in your hand.
Carburetor
| 1 - screw for adjusting the stroke of the inlet valve of the accelerator pump; 2 - carburetor cover; 3 - fuel jet of the transition system of the second chamber; 4 - air jet of the transition system; 5 – econostat air jet; 6 – econostat fuel jet; 7 - the main air jet of the second chamber; 8 - emulsion jet econostat; 9 - pneumatic actuator of the throttle valve of the second chamber; 10 - small diffuser; 11 - jets; 12 - delivery valve of the accelerating pump; 13 - accelerator pump sprayer; 14 - air damper; 15 - the main air jet of the first chamber; 16 - jet starting device; 17 - idle air jet; 18 - automatic starting device; | 19 - solenoid valve with idle fuel jet; 20 - needle valve for fuel supply; 21 - fuel filter; 22 - fuel supply fitting; 23 - float; 24 - screw for factory adjustment of the idle system; 25 - the main fuel jet of the first chamber; 26 - adjusting screw for the quality of the working mixture; 27 - adjusting screw of the composition of the working mixture; 28 - throttle valve of the first chamber; 29 - body of the float chamber; 30 - throttle valve of the second chamber; 31 - throttle body; 32 - emulsion tube; 33 - main fuel jet of the second chamber; 34 - bypass valve of the accelerator pump; 35 - inlet valve of the accelerator pump; 36 - accelerator pump drive lever. |
Design Description
On the VAZ-2106 car, the Ozone carburetor of the DAAZ 2107-1107010-20 model is currently being installed. On a VAZ-21065 car, a DAAZ 21053-1107010 carburetor is used (a model based on the Solex carburetor family).
Carburetor "Ozone" - emulsion type, two-chamber, with a falling stream. It has one balanced float chamber, two main metering systems, an enrichment device (econostat) in the second chamber, an autonomous idle system, transition systems of the first and second chambers, a diaphragm accelerator pump with a spray in the first chamber, an idle system solenoid shut-off valve, a spool crankcase gases removal device into the throttle space, pneumatic actuator of the throttle valve of the second chamber. The control of the air damper of the first chamber is manual, with a cable drive. After starting the engine, the damper is automatically opened by a diaphragm-type starting device under the action of a vacuum in the intake piping. The carburetor is equipped with a vacuum outlet to control the ignition timing controller.
Fuel is supplied to the carburetor through a strainer and needle valve. The valve is mechanically connected to the float and maintains a certain level of fuel in the float chamber.
From the float chamber, fuel enters through the main fuel jets (of the first and second chambers) into the emulsion wells and emulsion tubes, where it mixes with air entering through the main air jets. The air-fuel emulsion enters through the atomizers into the small and large diffusers of the carburetor.
The fuel channel of the idle system is blocked by an electromagnetic shut-off valve after the ignition is turned off. The normal state of the energized valve is open.
The idle system draws fuel from the emulsion well of the first chamber. The fuel passes through the idle jet, structurally integrated with the electromagnetic shut-off valve, and mixes with air entering through the idle air jet and the openings of the transition system of the first chamber. The resulting emulsion is fed through two channels (one has a calibrated hole - a jet, and the other has an adjusting screw, otherwise called a quality screw) to the hole blocked by the needle of the quantity screw, where it is additionally mixed with air and then enters the inlet pipeline through the emulsion hole. The composition of the mixture is regulated by the quality screw.
When the throttle valves are partially opened (before the main metering system is switched on), the air-fuel mixture enters the chambers through vias - two in each chamber.
The econostat provides fuel supply directly from the float chamber to the econostat atomizer, which is located in the diffuser of the second chamber. The econostat is switched on at maximum power modes, further enriching the working mixture.
Accelerator pump - diaphragm type, mechanically driven from the axis of the throttle valve of the first chamber. With a sharp opening of the damper, a portion of fuel is injected through the sprayer into the first chamber of the carburetor, enriching the mixture. The pump is equipped with ball valves. One valve - a check valve - is located in the channel connecting the float chamber with the cavity of the accelerator pump. It opens when the pump cavity is filled with fuel and closes when fuel is injected by the diaphragm. Another valve is located in the atomizer. It opens under the pressure of the injected fuel and closes under the weight of the ball as soon as the fuel supply stops. Excess fuel during injection flows through the bypass jet back into the float chamber.
The performance of the pump depends on the profile of the cam, the diameter of the hole in the bypass jet, the profile and length of the adjusting needle in the channel of the bypass jet. The accelerator pump is not subject to adjustment during operation.
The starter consists of the choke, choke lever, telescopic link, throttle link, diaphragm mechanism and throttle control actuator. When the drive handle (“suction”) is pulled out from the driver’s seat, the air damper closes, and the throttle valve of the first chamber opens slightly by 0.7–0.8 mm (starting clearance). At the first flashes in the cylinders, the vacuum behind the throttle valve is transmitted to the diaphragm, which opens the air damper through the rod and rod. The maximum opening of the damper is adjusted by the diaphragm stop screw located under the plug screw.
Carburetor
Scheme of the carburetor "Ozone"
Calibration data for the carburetor DAAZ 2107-1107010-20
| Options | First chamber | Second chamber |
| Diameters, mm: | ||
| diffuser | ||
| mixing chamber | ||
| Main fuel jet | 1,12 | 1,5 |
| main air jet | 1,5 | 1,5 |
| idling fuel jet | 0,5 | 0,6 |
| idle air jet | 1,7 | 0,7 |
| Econostat fuel jet | – | 1,5 |
| Econostat air jet | – | 1,2 |
| Econostat emulsion jet | – | 1,5 |
| starter air jet | 0,7 | – |
| Throttle valve air jet | 1,5 | 1,2 |
| accelerator pump spray holes | 0,4 | – |
| bypass jet of the accelerator pump | 0,4 | – |
| Delivery of the accelerating pump for 10 full strokes, cm 3 | 7±25% | – |
| Calibration number of the mixture sprayer | 3,5 | 4,5 |
| Emulsion tube calibration number | F15 | F15 |
| Float distance from carburetor cover with gasket, mm | 6.5±0.25 | |
| Gaps at the dampers for adjusting the starting device, mm: | ||
| air | 5.5±0.25 | |
| throttle | 0,9–1,0 |
| | | next lecture ==> | |
Do-it-yourself adjustment of the VAZ 2107 carburetor will not take you much time, since the VAZ is designed in such a way that it would be easier to do do-it-yourself repairs.
Different types of carburetors were installed on VAZ cars, but since we are burning about 2107, the DAAZ 2107-1107010 unit was installed on them. Signs of improper operation of this carburetor can be determined by pressing the gas pedal with the car running. When you press the pedal, the car will start to stall (while idling, it works fine).
Before starting work on adjusting the carburetor, we clean it with Abro special tool, which is quite good and not expensive compared to other similar tools. Then we proceed to setting up the DAAZ carburetor on the VAZ-2107, we repair it slowly, fulfilling all the repair requirements clearly according to the instructions. Do not forget - the rhythm of your car engine depends on the quality of your work. We will also adjust the carburetor suction - this will greatly simplify starting the engine in the cold and warming up the engine in the future. Do not forget about cleaning the carburetor filter, since gasoline in our country is not of very good quality, so often the filters get clogged quickly and the car stops working as it should.
Let's analyze the same nuance as cleaning the carburetor on the road. It will be interesting to read not only about adjusting the carburetor, but also.
The main unit in the car is the engine. In second place in importance, you can safely put the carburetor. The main task of this part is to ensure the normal operation of the power unit in a variety of operating modes (during acceleration, at idle, during start-up and braking). It is in the carburetor that the air-fuel mixture is prepared, which is subsequently ignited in the combustion chamber.
A slight violation in the adjustment of the device can lead to a number of negative consequences - problems with starting the engine, increased fuel consumption, poor dynamics, reduced power, and so on. To prevent such problems, it is important to timely tune and adjust the carburetor.
The main types of carburetors DAAZ
DAAZ 2107-1107010 - installed on the VAZ 2105, as well as the VAZ 2107.
DAAZ 2107-1107010-20 - were installed, as a rule, on the new VAZ 2106 VAZ 2103.
DAAZ 2107-1107010-10 - installed on VAZ 2106 or VAZ 2103 engines without a vacuum corrector with an ignition distributor.
At all times, various types of carburetors were installed on VAZ cars - Ozone, Weber, Solex and others. However, some of them are still popular today. Generally speaking, carburetors are of float type, bubbling and needle type.
In our article, we will pay special attention to the "native" carburetor VAZ-2107 - "Ozone". At the same time, I would immediately like to note that these devices come in different series. For example, on the "fives" and "sevens" DAAZ 2107-1107010 was most often installed. In turn, the marking of carburetors on "sixes" and "triples" was a little different - DAAZ 2107-1107010-20 (or a similar type, but with 10 at the end).
Design features
The main parts of the carburetor include the shut-off valve XX, the compartment for the removal of burnt fuel assemblies, the transitional chamber system, the throttle valve, the dosing system, the econostat, the float chamber, and the autonomous XX system. Each of these nodes performs its function. We will not delve deeply into this issue - the knowledge already gained will be quite enough for you to configure.
- float chamber.
- Ecostat.
- Autonomous idle system.
- Idle clearance valve.
- Throttle valve.
- Dosing system.
- Transition system of two chambers.
- Department of removal of crankcase gases.
Carburetor VAZ2107, how to clean the carburetor from dirt, a detailed progress of work
When carrying out external cleaning of the carburetor, you will need half a liter of acetone or a special can of aerosol liquid for cleaning carburetors, a small brush and a lint-free rag. First you need to remove the air filter housing, plug the top of the carburetor with a rag so that dirt does not get inside.
Then we apply an aerosol from a can (as an alternative, you can use acetone, which must be applied with a brush) to the outer surfaces of the carburetor. Now you need to wait a few minutes. We arm ourselves with a brush and carefully and carefully remove the dissolved dirt from flat surfaces and recesses. It is advisable to additionally wipe the outer surfaces with a cloth soaked in gasoline or diesel fuel. After cleaning, it is necessary to blow the carburetor with compressed air from a compressor or pump.
How to adjust the carburetor starting system
The starting system is adjusted in the following order:
- To set up the starting system of the VAZ carburetor, it is necessary to dismantle the air filter, start the engine and pull out the suction.
- Open the air damper about a third.
- Then we achieve a speed level of about 3.2 - 3.6 thousand revolutions per minute.
- Now we lower the air damper and adjust the speed by three hundred less than the original one.
We set up the DAAZ carburetor on the VAZ-2107
Please note that the adjustment process will take you some time. It is necessary to work slowly and strictly follow the instructions. Please note that the characteristics of your engine and its “gluttony”, and hence your further costs, depend on the accuracy of the setting. The general algorithm of work is as follows:
- inspect the part for damage and defects;
- clean and rinse all parts from dirt and debris;
- clean the mesh filter;
- wash the float chamber;
- clean the air jets;
- adjust the XX of the carburetor, the starting mechanism and the float system.
Now let's look at each of the stages in more detail:
- Restoration of the mesh filter is performed in the following sequence:
- using a gasoline pump, pump fuel into the carburetor chamber until the shut-off valve closes;
- move the "cap" of the filter to the side and dismantle the valve;
- wash the valve in solvent and dry (you can use a source of compressed air).
Please note that the presence of “failures” during engine operation, a decrease in power, and the “stupidity” of a car are often associated precisely with filter contamination.
- Adjust float system. For this:
- check the position of the float. If it is displaced, then trim it with a special holder;
- make sure the needle valve is closed;
- open the "hatch" of the chamber and move the float. Next, slightly pull the “tongue” of the bracket towards you;
- set the required distance between the float and the "hatch" gasket. The optimal parameter is 6-7 mm. If the measured indicator does not fall into this range, then adjustment is necessary. In the case of immersion, the gap should be no more than one or two millimeters. Otherwise, the needle can be rejected;
- measure the gap that is actually obtained between the float and the needle. With the valve open, this value should be 15 mm.
The checks mentioned above can be carried out without dismantling or with dismantling the carburetor.
- Adjust the starting system. To make this work you have to dismantle the air filter, start the car and pull out the choke somewhere in the third part. Your task is to achieve 3200-3600 rpm. As soon as this parameter is set, release the choke and set the rotation to about 300 rpm less.
- Adjust idle. Tighten the quality screw completely, and then make 2-3 turns to the side in a clockwise direction. Check that the quantity screw is not completely screwed in. Next, warm up the engine to operating temperature (the choke must be open). As soon as the engine has warmed up, remove the choke and listen to the operation of the power unit. If the motor starts to stall, then turn the quantity screw slightly. If the speed is too high, then, on the contrary, screw the screw back a little.
Your task is to set 900 rpm. By turning the quality screw, achieve a minimum speed with stable operation (in this case, the speed may increase). After that, turn the quantity screw back to the 900 rpm parameter. If necessary, use the quality control again.
Carburetor Solex VAZ2107, how to adjust the float system with your own hands
To adjust the float chamber, you must perform the following steps:
- We check the position of the float and pay attention to the shape of the mounting bracket - if it is deformed, it needs to be leveled. This is quite important, because otherwise the float will not sink properly into the chamber.
- Set with the needle valve closed. It is necessary to open the cover of the float chamber and move it to the side. Next, gently pull the tongue of the bracket. You must make sure that there is a distance of six or seven millimeters between the float and the cover gasket. After immersion, the distance should be approximately one or two millimeters. If it is much larger, it is necessary to replace the needle.
- When the needle valve is open, the distance between the float and the needle should be about fifteen millimeters.
It is worth noting that it is not necessary to remove the carburetor from the motor to perform these actions.
Setting the carburetor suction
How much trouble the wrong setting of the carburetor suction brings to the carriers, especially in winter. In some cars, you pull the choke to the end, and the engine does not keep revs, you have to hold the gas pedal until it warms up. For others, on the contrary, you pull the choke to the end, and the engine screams like crazy, although during warm-up such high engine speeds are unnecessary.
The thing is that the lever for forced opening of the throttle valve of the carburetor is incorrectly adjusted when the suction is pulled.
All this is easy to fix, in the photo above, the arrow shows the thrust of the forced opening of the throttle at the moment the suction is pulled. If the engine does not hold speed, then it is possible that the rod is on the lower hole of the throttle lever, the photo shows two holes for the throttle rod. Move the rod to the upper hole of the lever.
If the engine spins very quickly on the suction, then with pliers slightly bend the rod shown by the arrow, it bends easily without removing it from the carburetor, if the engine speed is low, straighten this rod. In this way, you can easily set the desired engine speed when starting on suction.
Setting the engine speed on suction in the VAZ 2108 carburetor is even easier, the photo above shows boat 3, spinning its engine speed on suction will increase, and unscrewing it will decrease.
I hope that after reading this article, you can easily adjust the carburetor on your car yourself.
Carburetor filter, how to clean the strainer
By pumping, the float chamber should be filled with fuel. This will close the shut-off valve, after which it is necessary to move the upper section of the strainer, remove the valve and clean it with a solvent. For best results, it is advisable to use compressed air to purge the valve.
When cleaning the bottom of the float chamber, do not use a rag, as this can lead to the appearance of fibers on the bottom, as a result of which the carburetor jets will become clogged. For cleaning, it is advisable to use compressed air or a rubber bulb.
When checking the locking needle for leaks, a pear is also used, since the pressure that appears due to the compression of this object with the hands approximately corresponds to the pressure of the fuel pump. When installing the carburetor cover, check to see if the floats are up. Significant pressure will be felt during the installation process. At this moment, the carburetor must be listened to, since air leaks are unacceptable. Even with the smallest leak, you need to change the needle and valve body.
How to clean a carburetor on the road
Sometimes it happens that the main jet in the carburetor is clogged, if the carburetor in the classics is easy to clean, since the jet is easy to pull out, then in the VAZ 2108-2109 carburetor the jet is deep and can be pulled out for cleaning by removing the carburetor and turning it over. On the road it is certainly a very long time.
There is an easy way to clean the VAZ 2108-09 carburetor jet without removing the carburetor, but you only need to remove the top of the carburetor. In order to pull the jet from the carburetor, you will need a toothpick, or a finely planed stick.
To get to the jet, you need to remove the air filter pan, unscrew the bolt holding the suction cable (in the photo below it is shown by an arrow), disconnect the fuel hoses and five bolts holding the top of the carburetor.
After the jet has been removed from the carburetor, inspect the jet; it may contain a mote; blow it out; blow it into the hole from which the jet was removed with a pump;
The float chamber of the carburetor can be drained of gasoline with a rag, then wiped well with a rag, removing debris, or blown with a pump.
Everything, the main jet is cleaned, everything can be assembled in the reverse order. This cleaning is easy to do on the road yourself, not to mention at home.
A sign of clogging of the jet of the first chamber of the carburetor
The sign of clogging of the first chamber of the carburetor is very simple, the engine runs fine at idle, but as soon as you lightly press the gas pedal, the engine stalls.
But there is a very similar symptom that indicates a malfunction of the candles or the ignition coil, more often this symptom manifests itself in wet weather or heavy fog. You drive a car, the engine starts to twitch, you give gas it accelerates, but as soon as you give up gas, the engine stalls, you give it a little gas, the engine does not react, you press it into the floor or pull out the choke, the engine starts to pull. It is very similar to the fact that the jet in the carburetor is clogged, but this is not a jet, it is the candles that fail. You can check it like this, unscrew the candles, if they are in a dry black soot, then the candles are to blame, if the candles are very old with a lot of plaque, then such candles need to be replaced or ignited on a gas stove.
Why does the VAZ engine stall at low speeds at 90c and does not start?
There may be two reasons for this, the carburetor gives a very rich mixture. An enriched mixture may be due to the carburetor needle (does not hold the level), the float has a leak and has taken in gasoline, the level of the float is incorrectly set, the jets are incorrectly installed according to the caliber. If a cold engine needs a rich fuel mixture, which a bleed carburetor can provide, a hot engine needs a leaner fuel mixture, so the engine stalls when it warms up.
The second reason is not related to the carburetor, but this symptom is the ignition coil (reel) is faulty. Due to a malfunction of the ignition coil, a warm engine can also stall at low speeds and not start until it cools down.
Configuring the PU (launcher)
To proceed to the stage of setting up the PU (starter), first prepare a piece of wire with a cross section of 0.75 ± 0.05 mm and a cardboard (plastic) template 5.0-5.5 mm wide. After that, we dismantle the air filter and clean the outside of the carburetor.
1 - three-arm air damper control lever; 2 - air damper; 3 - thrust of the starting device; 4 - stock; 5 - adjusting screw; 6 - throttle valve of the first chamber; 7 - throttle actuator rod
We close the air intake completely, while the end of the rod, which connects the air intake lever with the PU rod, should be at the end of the groove of this rod. Then we fully retract the PU rod and, using a template or caliper (ruler), we control the gap between the chamber wall and the edge of the air intake. It should be 5.0 + 0.5 mm.
Now we adjust the opening gap of the air intake. Adjustment is made using a special screw, which is closed with a stopper. Therefore, first we unscrew the cork with a slotted screwdriver, and then we correct the opening of the OT.
DZ opening control
To perform this operation, you must first remove the carburetor. Then we scroll the 3-arm lever counterclockwise and use the wire to check the gap, the value of which should be within 7.5 ± 0.5 mm. If necessary, carefully bend the rod or move its tip to another hole.
Setting XX
To properly set the XX, you will need a gas analyzer and a multimeter. We preheat the engine. The revolutions in the XX mode should be within 860 ± 40 rpm. First, set the lead angle.
- We switch the multimeter to the speed measurement mode and connect one probe to the primary winding of the short circuit (ignition coil), and connect the second to ground.
- We insert the gas analyzer sensor into the exhaust pipe and turn on the device.
- We start the engine and control the speed. If necessary, adjust the quantity screw to 860 ±40 rpm.
- With a quality screw, we achieve a carbon dioxide content within 0.85 ± 0.35%. If you do not have a gas analyzer, we control this parameter for the stable operation of the engine.
With the correct setting, if you sharply press and release the gas pedal, the engine should smoothly increase and then decrease speed.
VZ drive setting
After dismantling the air filter, we take the damper handle with our hands and move it away from us so that the air intake becomes vertical. If it was not possible to install vertically, proceed to the adjustment.
Using a 7 key, hold the sleeve and at the same time unscrew the screw securing the damper rod. Under the action of the spring, the VZ should become in a vertical position. Then tighten the screw.
As you can see for yourself, adjusting the VAZ 2107 carburetor is a rather simple operation that will help you save your money and time. You can learn more interesting and useful information from this video.
Engine operation before and after adjustment
Prior to the adjustment in the operation of the engine, minor interruptions and tremors were observed. Black combustion products came out of the exhaust pipe. During long driving, at high loads, in low gears, fuel consumption increased significantly.
After adjustment, the noise and vibration significantly decreased. The engine runs steadily and starts quickly. Increased power, better revs. Significantly reduced fuel consumption.
Why do I adjust the carburetor myself
Do-it-yourself adjustments save money and time. There are types of work that cannot be done without special equipment with your own hands. But to service the carburetor, which is not a complex design, is within my power.
Therefore, I am happy to do this process myself, without outside help. After the correct adjustment, there is a feeling of pride, satisfaction for the result. My car runs like clockwork, which is nice.
Source
www.megasos.com
prosedan.ru
vipwash.com
mylada.net
make-1.ru
The operation of the engine of your car, first of all, depends on what this engine is powered by. And to be more precise, on what the air-fuel mixture will be. And here it is very important that the correct amount of air is mixed with a certain amount of fuel. After all, if the proportions are met, then the engine will produce maximum power with relative efficiency. And it depends on how to adjust the carburetor on the VAZ 2107. After all, it is the carburetor that is responsible for the air.
There are several ways to do this, depending on the type of carburetor you are using. They are membrane, float, needle. As for the carburetors of VAZ 2107 cars, they are of the float type.
If you want to increase the life of the motor, as well as its efficiency, then you should pay due attention to the condition and adjustment of such an aggregate unit as a carburetor.
Carburetor modification
The first thing you have to do before you start adjusting the carburetor on your car is to find out which model is on it:
- The presence of a vacuum ignition corrector indicates that you have a VAZ 2103/2106 engine and a modification carburetor 2107-1107010-20.
- If you have an engine from the “six”, but there is no corrector, then you have a modification carburetor 2107-1107010-10.
Malfunction symptoms
To solve the problem, you need to know the signs and causes of its occurrence. Considering that the operation of the carburetor directly affects the dynamic qualities of the car, the following symptoms of a malfunction can be noted:
- The engine is hard to start, it can “sneeze” for a long time.
- While pressing the gas, jerks, failures in the operation of the engine may be observed, the car may twitch.
- Heavy and long acceleration, no matter how you put pressure on the gas.
- Abnormal "gluttony" of the engine ().
In case you started to observe one or more of the signs from this list, then you should start adjusting the carburetor.
You will get the best quality of adjustment if you remove the carburetor from the car. During operation, do not use woolen, fleecy cloth and various wires to clean the jets.
Float system adjustment
After you've removed the carburetor, it's best to adjust the float system first.
If the float is correctly adjusted, then its stroke will be in the range of 6.5 mm on one side and 14 mm on the other. It will not be difficult for you to adjust it, you can use the checking template by setting the camera vertically. This will allow the float to make slight contact with the valve ball, but will not exert pressure on it.
If you notice that your stroke is not 6.5 mm, then you should bend the needle valve tab a little to get the desired value.
Then adjust the opening level of the needle valve, it is he who is responsible for passing fuel into the chamber. When there is enough gasoline in the chamber, the float rises, reducing the flow of gasoline, but if you press the gas sharply, it opens, the fuel will begin to be consumed more intensively, and the float will lower, opening the valve.
After that, you need to adjust the stroke of the float on the other side. Check for deviations by moving it away from the cover until it stops, the distance should be 14 mm. In case of discrepancy to this value, bend the stop of the bracket for attaching the float so that a distance of no more than 14 mm is obtained.
After you carry out the steps described above, the float will have a stroke of about 8 mm.
Trigger Adjustment
A mandatory step in setting up the carburetor is adjusting the starting device, because it starts a cold engine with its help. In this case, several times more gasoline can be supplied to the air-fuel mixture than in the operating mode.
The frequency of the starting device on the VAZ 2107 carburetor is 1500 rpm, which corresponds to the engine idling.
Below is a diagram of the starter:
The principle of operation of the trigger is such that when you pull the choke, you activate it, at the same time:
- the cable pulls the three-arm lever and, turning it counterclockwise, cocks it;
- the telescopic rod also moves, rotating the air channel damper by means of a lever;
- the other arm of the three-arm lever acts on the axis of the throttle valve of the first chamber;
- the air damper is in the closed position, and the throttle is slightly ajar and has a starting gap.
Having decided to adjust the starting device, first of all remove the carburetor, then:
- Rotate the airflow flap lever so that it is fully closed. In this position, the device is armed.
- Turn the carburetor over. Measure the gap between the channel wall and the edge of the throttle valve. In a properly adjusted carburetor, it is in the range of 0.85–0.9 mm. You can use a feeler gauge to check this.
- If the clearance is not correct, correct it by bending the throttle lever linkage.
After adjusting this gap, go to gap "A". This is the distance between the damper and the wall:
- Close the damper by cocking the trigger.
- In order to create rarefied air conditions, push in the stem.
- The rod will pull the slot rod along with it, as a result of which a gap appears between the wall and the edge of the damper.
- In a properly adjusted starter, gap "A" is in the range of 5–5.4 mm.
- If it is not within this range, it must be adjusted. To do this, turn the adjusting screw.
How to adjust idling on a VAZ 2107
Before undertaking the idle speed adjustment, care must be taken that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, while it must be in good order:
- Raise the speed to the maximum frequency. To do this, unscrew the quality screw. The mixture becomes "rich".
- Raise the rpm further by turning the mixture amount screw counterclockwise.
- Check if the RPM goes up even higher by turning the quality screw in different directions without changing the position of the quantity screw. If the turnover has increased, then repeat the previous two points again;
- Having found the required position of the quantity screw, without touching it, use the quality screw to set the speed in the range of 850–900 rpm.
This is a very simple but convenient way to adjust. You can focus on the readings of the electronic tachometer, auditory sensations, as well as on the readings on the dashboard.
To adjust:
- Push the choke all the way down.
- In this case, the air damper in the secondary chamber will be in a vertical position.
- If the damper is not fully open, it must be adjusted.
- To do this, loosen the damper rod fixing screw, it will stand upright, then tighten it.
Throttle Actuator Adjustment
This drive must be set up correctly, otherwise the car will have worse speed dynamics. In order to set it up, you will need a partner, an 8 key, a simple screwdriver, a caliper and a flashlight.
How to properly regulate:
- First of all, drown the "suction" all the way.
- The partner must squeeze the gas to the floor. The throttle valve in this case, if properly adjusted, will rise vertically. Shine a flashlight to make sure.
- Let the partner release the gas pedal, at the same time, the damper will close the primary chamber without gaps.
- If the damper is not fully opened or closed, then it will be necessary to adjust the length of the actuator rod.
- Remove the rod, measure its length. It should be exactly 80 mm. If there is a discrepancy, then tighten the locknuts to set the desired length.
It is worth noting that there are a number of operations with the carburetor, but by following the above steps, you will get rid of most problems with the air-fuel mixture. If you have more serious problems, it would be better to contact a specialist in this matter. As a rule, the implementation of the proposed instructions is enough for a quality adjustment of the carburetor.
Video
Useful tips for adjusting the carburetor below:
