How to install the ignition on the chassis. Correct adjustment of the ignition system on VAZ cars

Set up or set the ignition, we consider it one and the same. Bye.
The “problem” usually looks like this. In order not to invent any abstract stories, let's take the first one that already exists. History from Azlk-team.ru.
This is not even a story, but a simple question.

Further in the topic there will be my own answers, I will try to explain how this lesson on installing the ignition I see myself. To understand that there will be many answers to the question and they can be different, we will give one of them.

It seems to have an answer, but it adds a few more new questions. Everyone finds for himself a convenient way to set the initial ignition point based on what he knows on this topic. I will write a little on my own. It is worth highlighting separately. This is the ignition setting when the engine is running. at idle. That is, we correctly set the ignition and select the “idle and no more” speed mode for this. That's how it's always been done.

The record will not be short and cannot be compiled at once.
At first, he would answer the questions himself. But this is also not a complete answer. It's easier to start with points, and then the rest.
………….
1. The vacuum cleaner does not need to be removed while the ignition is being set (removing means removing the tube from it and excluding its operation).
But. It is necessary to first check at idle whether it changes the engine speed or not. If it does not change, then it is possible and necessary to regulate the ignition with it, and this is correct.
If it changes speed (that is, we pick up the phone - the speed drops, put the phone back - the speed increases), then alas, there is a problem. The problem will be called "the vacuum is wrong, it must be replaced."
We will set the ignition already with the vacuum cleaner connected, knowing that this is already wrong. But there is no other way out yet.

2. Use of a stroboscope.
I will say a terrible thing, but it is not necessary to set the initial ignition moment. You can do without it and without lamps. But it's easier and faster. Why is it essential...
Anyway, after “accurate setting of the ignition on the strobe”, with a probability of 90% we will move it to the side. In which direction - only driving will show it. More often - in the direction of the earlier. if the car blunts while driving. But sometimes in the direction of the late - when the "fingers" tinkle on the go.

3. “Instructions and especially for contactless ...”.
There is no difference - contact ignition or non-contact - the principle is the same.
The instruction may be, but it is better if it turns out to be with preliminary explanations.
Below is the main text. So far, nothing concrete has been written.
- How to put "by ear"
- How to set a light bulb (only contact ignition system)
- How to set without a light bulb, on a “spark”
- How to correct "on the go". This is not exactly a case of "fourth gear and a recessed gas pedal." Although this, too, will not make a big mistake.
Further, the answer is possible, why not a single method helps and the stroboscope does not help.
Let's go for the second round.
1. The vacuum cleaner at idle should not start working, so let it remain connected. What to do if it works (changes speed when it is connected). You just need to prepare to change it, it is problematic. It has too soft a spring and the minimum vacuum at idle already causes it to compress and pull the ignition bias along with it. It is also worth considering the question of whether the second end of the tube going from the vacuum cleaner to the carburetor is connected there. It goes only to the minimum hole in the carburetor chamber. Now (at idle) this hole from the inside of the carburetor well is closed (without details) by the end of the throttle valve, or this valve is still lower and closed (there is no large vacuum). When the position of the damper changes (the gas pedal is pressed), then the first strong vacuum will appear, acting through the tube on the spring of the vacuum regulator.

2. Let's try to do without a stroboscope when installing the ignition.
- on the contact system, you can use a “light bulb”. That is, hang one end of the car carrier on the terminal on the side of the distributor, and the other on the ground. We remove the cover from the contact distributor, turn on the ignition, remove the backlash of the slider with a hand to the right (clockwise) and turn the distributor clockwise until our light bulb lights up.
In the literature it is written like this (so that no one is mistaken)

... turn the distributor housing counterclockwise until the breaker contacts close. In this case, the control lamp should go out. Holding the slider with your fingers, apply a slight force to it in the clockwise direction (to eliminate gaps in the drive mechanism) and carefully turn the distributor housing in the same direction until the control lamp lights up ...

In general, the instruction in the literature is like this, but I haven’t done it for so long, so I check it on the original source.
The verification is just that. This will be the moment to fix the distributor. The distributor is fixed, click on the contacts of the contact group. The lamp should go out with each press, release - it lights up. So everything was done according to the book, we put on the cover, we start the engine.

The method is “universal”, but I didn’t have to use it on my contactless one. My car starts up.

It used to be like that.
We unscrew the first candle (or just take a new one) and put it on the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder. We put the connected candle on the valve cover. We turn on the ignition and, in twilight (or complete silence), turn the crank or a large key on the engine ratchet. When the ignition mark is close, we turn it slower and wait for the moment when a barely noticeable spark slips or we hear its weak click.
We stop and look at the position of our mark on the pulley. She reached her place (opposite the pin) or did not. If it didn’t reach, then the spark slipped too early and we need to turn the distributor counterclockwise, that is, in the direction of ignition delay. And vice versa….
You can turn the distributor a little and repeat almost two turns. Then the spark will fly again.
As it happened, so it happened. On the third test attempt, I usually did not have enough spark power. I started the engine for a couple of minutes, accumulated the power of the spark, and then again continued the “search”.
Absolutely the same if you just keep the tip of the spark plug wire at a minimum distance from the ground (body or valve cover). But this is not convenient, although the spark is more noticeable (and even more so very sensitive to the hands).

As without a light bulb, by feel or by ear. We put the distributor in approximately the correct position and start the engine. If it doesn’t start right away, turn the distributor clockwise by 5mm (this is all viewed from above). We start again. Fired up right away - good. We turn off the engine and make a mark on the body (with a small chisel or screwdriver, or make a scratch on the distributor body and on the part of the seat into which the distributor is inserted). Now we know that in this position our engine will always start.
We shift the distributor by 3-5 mm more clockwise (we do this even earlier ignition). Let's try to start. It is necessary to try to determine “our limit” in the regulations. If now we start and the engine periodically seems to “stumble” into something, then right now we have the ignition too early. An early spark pushes the pistons back, although they have not yet reached their top position. This is not permissible, we just mark ourselves the new position of the distributor and remember it in such a position, we will never leave it like that.
We are looking for the optimal between “we will never” and “the engine starts immediately”.

Next, you always need to check and refine the ignition on the go. It matters to rotate the position of the distributor every 2 mm. Therefore, we need a good mark for the position of the distributor - with a chisel or a screwdriver.
We check the ignition on a fully warmed up car. It is not necessary to look for the ringing of “fingers” from the depressed pedal in fourth gear at a speed of 40 km / h. This is more like a violence of technology, although it is, of course, metal and will withstand everything. The ringing is long or short - this is not the main thing. Our distributor is already approximately right, it remains to correct its position by 2-3 mm. You will understand when it pulls better and does not ring. And when, on the contrary, the traction is a little worse and the car is a little dull.
You can for yourself along the way note the operation of the engine by “hearing”.
If we spin up the engine and switch to the next gear, then at this moment we have two extreme “wrong” manifestations of sound.
a) The engine does not want to slow down quickly. We do not accelerate, but he has not yet reacted to the reset, the speed is kept for some time. So the ignition is too late.
b) The engine instantly loses speed when the gas pedal is released, plus a tinkle during acceleration - this means that there is a little early ignition.
But this last “by ear” is more for “our knowledge”, for convincing ourselves that we have not been mistaken before.
Now we are testing the whole “theory” in practice and
…
enriched with knowledge, then we try to understand. Why in some cases does not help any of these methods. And even the master with a stroboscope does not help.
More on that, but a little later.

Added December 11 Not yet ready in detail. Basic position -
- there are distributors that not allowed to set the ignition.such that everything suits. At the same time - easy start, traction on the bottoms, lack of “ringing”, excellent dynamics at maximum speed.
Therefore, they are trying to turn the distributor to the right and left, without results.
There are only two exits:
1. Buy another distributor.
2. Adjust (or adjust) the distributor. This second concept is more difficult. Many do not believe in him.
….
Also, for winter it is worth adding that sometimes it makes sense to do the ignition a little later, with a loss of dynamics.
But this is when it is very cold and the battery is weak, it is difficult for him to overcome the minimum “sticking” during cranking.

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How to correctly set the ignition on the engine 4.67 /5 (93.33%) 3 votes

When running an internal combustion engine in a car, it is important that the fuel mixture is ignited at the right time. Controls this process ignition system.

The ignition system is a complex element, and it happens that the settings fail, and then the engine starts to work incorrectly. How to set the ignition on the engine many drivers do not know or have insufficient experience, thereby exacerbating the situation, with careless adjustment. To do this, you first need to know what ignition is, how it works. It is not difficult to set the ignition on the engine yourself, the main thing is to know all the subtleties of the process. And we will analyze this in the article.

The principle of operation of the ignition

The ignition means drives the engine. Ignition, in essence, is necessary to create a spark charge during a certain period of engine operation. This spark charge travels through the spark plugs. In a car running on gasoline, a spark is needed to create a charge. The diesel engine is different, where the ignition of the mixture occurs at maximum compression. Those. turning the key activates the compression system and supplies the right amount of air-fuel mixture to the engine.

With the correct operation of the ignition system, the engine quickly picks up the necessary work, there is no increased detonation. In addition, an incorrectly set ignition becomes cause.

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Many car owners, especially beginners, not only do not know how to set the ignition on the engine, but also why it is needed. And this is necessary so that the fuel mixture burns completely.

This is used by dishonest craftsmen at a car service, adding a number of others to the existing problem. Thus, significantly increasing the average repair bill. If you are afraid of being deceived. Click on any of the messengers below to find out 5 easy ways to avoid being scammed 👇

Combustion does not take place suddenly, so some time is needed.

To obtain the required efficiency, ignition of the fuel must occur before the piston reaches TDC. Thus, as long as it reaches the top point and crosses it, the air-fuel mixture burns without residue and the necessary energy is released. Thereby influencing the piston as much as possible.

call it ignition advance or advance angle, because measurements are made by rotating the crankshaft. Those. the angle at which the crankshaft did not turn so that the piston was at TDC.

Causes and symptoms of a malfunction in the ignition of the engine.

Late and early ignition

Violations of the ignition timing leads to late or early ignition.

- when the ignition of the fuel occurs with a delay, if the piston is as close as possible to TDC, or has reached it.

As a result, the air-fuel mixture does not burn completely. It produces a small amount of energy.

Early ignition- when the ignition of the fuel mixture occurs at the moment when the piston is still far from TDC.

Thus, it turns out that the release of energy has occurred, but the TDC piston has not yet passed. In addition, the released energy begins to counteract the piston.

consequences of such violations.

An incorrectly set ignition on the engine leads to bad consequences for the engine.

Signs of late ignition:

1. The motor is not picking up speed. There is a lack of power.
2. Hard start, especially manifested at the first start.
3. Increased fuel consumption.
4. Engine overheating.
5. Cottons are present.

The consequences of late combustion are serious for the motor. Because unburned fuel begins to accumulate on the internal components of the motor in the form of soot. As a result, it turns into coking of the engine and leads to a malfunction.

Signs of early ignition:

1. Fuel detonation occurs.
2. Reduced power at low speeds.
3. Increase in fuel consumption.
4. Heard, when the engine is running, a metallic knock.

Early advance is also quite detrimental to the engine. Because the released energy begins to oppose the piston, and shock loads occur on the piston and connecting rod mechanism (resulting in metallic knocking). All this wears out the nodes, burnout occurs, bending of the connecting rods, wear of the crankshaft.

Therefore, in order to prevent this, it is necessary to know how to correctly set the ignition on the engine.

There are many ways to set the ignition, but we will consider 3 ways to set the ignition on the engine, which you can handle on your own.

No special tools are needed here, this method is used by many experienced craftsmen.

Everything is simple here. First you need to start the car. Then slightly unscrew the nut fastening the distributor and slightly turn its body. Due to the turn, the engine speed will begin to change. A technique in finding the position of the hull, when the speed of the car will be maximum, while stable. In this position, you must quickly press the gas. If set correctly, the engine will start to pick up speed quickly, without jerks and delays.

Turn the distributor by 1-2 degrees clockwise, getting rid of the early ignition, and tighten the nut.

By spark

First you need to set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the upper position. By rotating the crankshaft, we combine the marks on the pulley with the first mark on the timing block. It should be borne in mind that the distributor must be directed to the cylinder wire contact. The fixing nut is loosened and the distributor begins to rotate slightly counterclockwise. This is how the search for the appearance of a spark occurs. When the spark disappears, the distributor is fixed.

By light bulb

Align the mark on the timing pulley with the protrusion on the cover. Thus, placing the TDC on the first cylinder. Connect the light bulb, one with a wire to ground, the other with a wire that connects the ignition coil to the distributor. Loosen the distributor nuts slightly. The ignition is turned on (without starting the engine) and the distributor housing is rotated until the light goes out. After that, turn the distributor to another until it lights up. And spin the distributor.

Checking the correct installation of the ignition on the engine.

To do this, you need to go to the coward and disperse the car up to stable 50 km/h. By pressing the gas pedal sharply, detonation occurs (metallic knock), and it occurs for 1-2 seconds, then the angle is set correctly. If the detonation is too long, then the advance angle is set incorrectly, it should be reduced clockwise. If detonation has not occurred, then increase the advance angle by turning the distributor counterclockwise.

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The owners of carburetor classics, regardless of what kind of ignition system they have - contact or non-contact, periodically have to deal with the task of adjusting the ignition. Right adjust the ignition on the VAZ-2107 it’s easy, even without experience and skills, you can adjust it in various ways, with a strobe, a control light, just set it according to certain parameters. Today we will try to tell you what nuances you will encounter when adjusting and what you need to know in order to adjust the ignition on the VAZ-2106 yourself.

After all, we all know that incorrectly adjusted ignition on a classic can lead to such consequences as excessive fuel consumption, uneven idling, poor traction, etc.

In order to set the ignition on the VAZ 2105 we need the following tool:
A key to "13", a control, a voltmeter or a stroboscope, a candle key and a key for cranking the crankshaft.
We set the ignition on the first or fourth cylinder to your taste. We will go the classical way and put up the first one.
So, let's pay attention to the timing cover of our engine, there are marks there, and a counter mark on the crankshaft pulley.
The short mark on the cap corresponds to a lead angle of 10°.
Medium - 5° and long - 0°.
TDC (top dead center) is marked on the pulley. Remove the cover from the distributor.

Turn the crankshaft with the key until the mark on the crankshaft pulley is relative to the 3rd mark on the timing cover, which corresponds to 0 °.

In this case, the distributor slider should be opposite the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder. We connect one of the light bulb wires to the wire going from the distributor to the ignition coil, and connect the second wire to ground. We take out the central wire from the cover of the distributor and also lean it against the ground. We loosen the nut that secures the distributor housing.

Turn the key to the position where the ignition is on.
We turn the distributor housing clockwise until the light goes out (the distributor contacts close). Then slowly rotate in the other direction until the lamp lights up (contacts open). By the way, instead of a light bulb, you can use a candle, on which we put a wire directly from the ignition coil. At the moment of opening, a spark will jump. In this position, we fix the distributor housing. We tighten the nut.
Now let's check how correct we are adjusted the ignition on our carbureted VAZ-2107.
To do this, we start and warm up the engine to operating temperature and start moving. We accelerate to about a speed of 45 kilometers per hour, cut into 4th gear and press the gas pedal. Listen for detonation. It should be, but with overclocking it should quickly disappear. If detonation persists during acceleration, the ignition may be too early. And if there is no detonation at all, then later. We adjust until you achieve detonation, which “self-destructs” after a couple of seconds after pressing the gas pedal. Then we can assume that the ignition adjustment on our classic is over.

Often, how to set the ignition becomes a real problem for many motorists. They are completely unaware. And information about the ways of exhibiting it, we think, will become relevant and necessary for many.

Causes

Let's start with what is the reason for the disappearance of the so-called factory settings. In other words, because of what the tuned ignition operation fails. It turns out that the driver himself is often to blame, who for some reason dismantles the distributor, as the ignition distributor is popularly called. After carrying out the necessary work, due to which the distributor was removed, the driver is surprised to find that it is no longer so effective. In some cases, it is not possible to start the car at all.

Why is this happening? It turns out that the whole thing is in the labels set in advance. And the owner of the car, removing the distributor, does not think about the fact that he destroys these same factory settings.

Okay, let's not reproach ourselves and blame, because anyway, nothing can be done. The only thing left is to set the ignition yourself. Many, of course, run, but to do this every time, you see, is not always convenient.

The first thing the ignition installer must do is find and set the correct labels. In other words, you need to set the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the pin in the same way. And for this you need to take the handle and scroll the crankshaft pulley or put a high gear and push the car forward. In this case, you need to make sure that the marks on the shaft pulley and the pin coincide.

Go ahead. After that, we will need to remove the cover of the distributor and remember the position of the slider. In other words, you need to look at which cylinder its spacer plate is directed. Remembering, you can safely remove the distributor.

It is very important to know the following: Under no circumstances should the crankshaft pulley be rotated with the ignition distributor removed! This will lead to a complete knocking down of marks, and the work will have to be started anew.

Installing the distributor

Not every vehicle has a distributor installation in the same way. For example, the first cylinder is placed in the slider before installation. But on the brands of foreign cars, the distributor on the body has a special mark, on which the slider is set.

As for the iconic Moskvich, ZAZ and GAZ 24, 31, here in the tail of the ignition distributor you can see two crescents of different sizes. One of them is short and the other is long. And such a sector is located in the distributor drive, which is located in the engine block. We keep the direction the same as on the drive, and that's it.

After that, you can install the distributor and check again the alignment of the marks. We scroll the engine two turns and if the marks match, then everything is in order. Everything can already be firmly fixed, follow the wires going to the candles, and start the engine. Important: make sure that the spark plug wires are installed correctly. They must go in accordance with the order of operation of the engine cylinders. The main wire is the central one, which must go to the ignition coil.

How to set the ignition correctly if you do not know the order of operation of the cylinders? It's easy to find out. Often, wire numbers are marked directly on them or on the distributor cap. As for the counting order, it comes from the radiator and looks like this: first the first, then the third, then the fourth, and finally the second.

If the engine does not start again after such manipulations, check the supply of gasoline. It may be that you need to pump up gasoline manually. And that's it, do not forget to remove the handle from the crankshaft pulley. and everything should work.

On the video - ignition installation:

Ignition distributor and the principle of its operation

It is to this detail that novice motorists most often touch. They probably heard the ringing, but they don't know where it is. Every time they touch the distributor, if the operation of the engine seems doubtful to them, and as a result, problems begin. Either they check the ignition installation, then the condition of the breaker contacts, then the gap width, then the presence of an insulation breakdown, and much more.

On the one hand, being so inquisitive is not bad. All the great designers have been breaking cars since childhood to see what is hidden inside. But, on the other hand, it’s a child, and here it’s quite a respectable person of age, and even he climbs his hands into the very, so to speak, supersensitive device.

It is useful, before learning how to set the ignition, to learn the principle of operation of this device. In two words, the principle of operation of the distributor can be described as follows: a high voltage is created and it goes through the cylinders using contacts.

Any ignition system implies the presence of a distributor, a generator, an ignition switch, a breaker, a candle, a coil, and. These are the main "actors", thanks to which the plant is produced.

The mechanical interrupter involved in such a network performs the opening of the low voltage target. This is the main purpose of the primary winding in the coil. When the contacts open, a high voltage is also induced. And what parts will protect the contacts from such high voltage, you ask? Of course, capacitors.

What does an ignition coil do? It converts low current into high voltage.

And the mechanical distributor sends this high voltage current to the candles of each of the cylinders.

Electronic ignition

Many cars now have a contactless or electronic ignition distribution system. Let's try to find out how to set the electronic ignition?

And be sure to check the carbon deposits on the candles, which, if too noticeable, will force this part to be replaced. Don't forget to check your contacts too. Burnt samples will need to be replaced.

Fine adjustment of electronic ignition should be carried out on a special stroboscope. If it is not there, then you can also adjust the spark, as experienced craftsmen do. Now in more detail:

• the car engine needs to be warmed up to operating temperature (90 degrees);
• the distributor does not need to be removed, it is enough to relax it;
• remove the central wire from the ignition distributor;
• install the piston in the first cylinder so that it is at the top dead center of the compression stroke (the holes on the pulley and the pin must completely match, and the pin has such a hole on a special cover);
• now you can turn on the ignition, holding the wire from the coil in your left hand;
• we adjust the ignition distributor clockwise with the right hand, holding the armored wire of the coil above the metal;
• we do the same, now scrolling the distributor counterclockwise until it sparkles;
• at this stage, the setting is completed - we fix the distributor in place.

In the process of this work, you need to make sure that the slider electrodes are installed correctly. In other words, they should be opposite the output from the cover of the distributor sensor, marked with the number 1. It is also important to find the octane corrector plate and tighten it with a bolt so that the pointer coincides with the middle division in the octane corrector adjustment scale. The bolt itself must have a pointer inserted on it.

Diesel

Now about how to set the ignition on a diesel engine. As you know, the efficient operation of a diesel engine is possible only with complete combustion of fuel. And the wrong adjustment of the ignition prevents this.

The difference between a diesel engine and a conventional engine is that here you are not forcibly setting fire to the fuel. Diesel strokes must clearly correspond to the moments of fuel supply to the cylinders.

Proper adjustment involves installing the piston on the first cylinder, as described above. Just here you will need to unscrew the decompression mechanism.

In addition, it will be necessary to remove the neck housing, where oil is poured, and the motor meter. We set the lever that regulates the fuel supply to the most extreme position. We install a momentoscope and check if a clean stream goes through the tube when we turn the crankshaft. In other words, the fuel supply must match the injection mark on the flywheel.

Injector

Setting the ignition on the injector is also easy. Here you need to carefully examine the throttle device and the degree of its opening, the position of the damper and wires. It does not hurt to check the sensor voltage with a tester, as well as the on-board network.

The results obtained must be compared with the indications presented in the reference indicators. The norm of the sensor voltage is 0.45 or 0.55 volts.

Setting the lead angle

And finally, consider how to set the ignition advance. It is clear that the measured roar of the engine is possible only with a normally set advance angle.

Video on how to set the ignition:

We carry out the work in the same way as indicated above. We put the slider in the desired position and turn the crankshaft of the motor until the marks match.

We turn on the ignition, and press the distributor slider against the stroke and look at the control lamp. If it is lit, then the slider turns in the opposite direction until the light goes out.

We turn the breaker housing in the opposite direction, and if the lamp lights up, we fix the mounting bolts in this position.

We put the cover in place. That's it - the ignition timing is set.

Having learned how to set the distributor on your car, you can not worry about a clear start of the engine, be it anywhere. You can also save on fuel, because from an incorrectly set ignition, fuel consumption increases several times. Finally, the traction characteristics of the car will increase, and you can no longer be afraid that detonation will appear.

Setting the ignition according to two scenarios

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Every modern car enthusiast has his own answer regarding how to set the distributor. Some use a stroboscopic instrument, others perform eye surgery, and still others use only the services of a service station.

If you want to learn how to set the ignition yourself, you will need to stock up on a few tools. A 13 key, a voltmeter and a tool for removing spark plugs (candle) are required.

Correctly set ignition provides a guide to the 1st or 4th cylinder of the power plant. Let's see how to do it in the first case.

When setting the ignition timing, you must also be guided by the marks on the timing cover. There are 3 marks:

• Long line coinciding with the lead angle equal to 0 degrees.
• Medium risk - with an angle of 5 degrees.
• Short risk - with an angle of 10 degrees.

Setting on the 1st candle

The TDC is marked on the rim of the crankshaft pulley, and on the hub, directly opposite the risks, there is a special influx.

So, here's what you need to do:

• Unscrew the 1st SZ, and then close the hole with a plug.
• Turn the crankshaft pulley until the compression moment appears. In other words, until the rubber stopper, put in place of the candle, begins to squeeze out.
• Continue scrolling until the crankshaft line lines up with the pointer on the timing case.

Attention. Experts advise - if the owner of the car fills in gasoline with an octane rating above 95, then it must be combined with a short risk. If standard fuel, then it should be combined with an average risk, with an angle of 5 degrees. If 72nd or lower is poured, then it should be combined with a long mark corresponding to 0 degrees.

• After that, it will be necessary to relax the latches-latches, remove the cover.

After the crankshaft pulley has rotated properly, the rotor will go into the zone when its contact on the outside points in the direction of the first cylinder. When combining all the marks, it is recommended to mentally draw an axis along the latches of the cover. The line should run clearly parallel to the axis of the power plant. If this is not the case, the preparatory operation must be continued.

• The lock nut of the distributor is unscrewed.
• The distributor turns up.
• The axis of the rotor after rotation is placed parallel to the power plant.
• The distributor is put in place, the latch is tightened, but not completely.

Now is the time to proceed directly to the process of setting the ignition.

• One end of the voltmeter with a low-voltage wire is connected to the output of the ignition coil, the other to ground.
• The ignition is turned on.
• The distributor is gently turned clockwise until the indicator stops flashing.
• Now the distributor rotates counterclockwise, and as soon as the indicator lights up, the distributor should be fixed permanently.
• The ignition is switched off.
• The distributor cap is put in place.

It's time to check how everything is done.

• The engine starts, the car starts moving.
• It is recommended to accelerate to 45 km / h, then put it in 4th gear and instantly “rev up”.
• After a few seconds, detonation should begin (claps and ringing evidence of this), which will disappear as the car accelerates.

There are several versions here. If, as the car accelerates, detonation occurs, but does not disappear, the set ignition is most likely “early”. To eliminate this blunder, you will have to turn the distributor clockwise for another half or full division.

You can judge "late" ignition if detonation does not appear at all. In this case, the distributor rotates counterclockwise by half or full division.

Attention. After completing the ignition adjustment, it is recommended to mark the position of the middle mark on the distributor housing relative to the block.

Alignment on the 4th cylinder

This manual does not imply the use of special meters, test lamps or a stroboscope. Definitely, if the final check is carried out on a moving car, all this is superfluous.

We are preparing the following:

• Keys for 13 and 38 (cap).

Step-by-step instructions for exhibiting:

• The car is put on the "handbrake".
• The timing is set to a certain octane number of fuel (more on this was discussed above).
• The marks on the crankshaft pulley and the front cover of the power plant are aligned by slowly rotating the crankshaft by the ratchet.
• The distributor is placed parallel to the motor using its latches. In this case, the contact of the slider must necessarily be directed towards the 4th cylinder (this can be determined by the distributor cap).

Attention. The distributor housing should be pressed lightly with the holder.

• The ignition is switched on.
• The distributor rotates clockwise until the contacts open, until a spark appears between them.

The appearance of a spark is the correct ignition moment. In this position, the distributor should be securely fixed.

It is noteworthy that in some cases, with a correctly set lead angle, the operation of the power plant at the twentieth is clearly not impressive. In this case, inexperienced drivers begin to turn the distributor again, shifting the position to “early”. Certainly not worth doing. It is better to pay attention to the adjustment of the carburetor.

The gap and its setting on the distributor

The gaps between the contacts of the distributor and their adjustment is no less important. It is recommended to adjust the gap in car services, but in extreme cases you can do it yourself. Especially after the ignition was set on its own.

Step by step instructions for setting the gap is as follows:

• A set of special probes with a thickness of 0.40 mm is being prepared.
• The distributor cover is removed.
• The distributor rotor is also dismantled (it is held by 2 fixing screws).
• The crankshaft rotates until the breaker cam reaches its maximum position - when the contacts are open to the limit.
• Now the gap between the contacts of the distributor is checked. If in one place, for example, the gap is smaller, then you should alternately loosen the tightening screws of the contact group rack and push the rack away with a screwdriver until the optimal gap rises.

Note. The normal gap, for example, on the VAZ "seven" should be 0.35-0.45 mm.

What threatens an incorrectly set distributor

If the ignition is set incorrectly, then this threatens with big troubles. Here are just a few of them.

• Loss of the former power of the power plant and throttle response.
• Increase in fuel consumption.
• Black exhaust, indicating incomplete combustion of fuel.
• Detonation.
• Valve burnout, etc.

As for the reasons for knocking down the factory settings, then, as a rule, they are associated with the human factor. The driver himself dismantles the distributor for some reason, after which the standard settings are lost.

It will be interesting to note that on domestic models of a car, the slider is set on the 1st cylinder, but on foreign cars - on the 4th or according to the special label of the distributor body.

On Muscovites, Zaporozhets and Volga-24/31, the marks are two different crescents. Of these, one is short, the other is long.