How to make an ATV out of a bicycle. Homemade ATV based on the Oka and VAZ units

Today we will talk about how to make a real ATV with your own hands from a motorcycle, walk-behind tractor or moped. We will also consider drawings, diagrams and methods for assembling a homemade ATV from improvised materials in the garage

From a motorcycle like the "Ural" - this is a big, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" beast, has a wonderful four-stroke engine with a reverse gear and costs a "penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more interesting for enthusiasts to create their own designs of these SUVs.

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to compile a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own offspring, develop a work plan and design drawing.

It is logical that, first of all, it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future ATV - the power unit. Absolutely anyone will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
To use high gear ratios in normal operation, the engine "Minsk" or "Ural" will be enough.

In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so air-cooled models should be chosen. Another good option is Soviet-made boxer engines, an indisputable plus of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious driveline.

There are two most common ATV rear suspension solutions.
Reduction-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously named advantages.

Use of a road bridge. The design turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with an automobile base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the pluses, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when moving along the tracks.

There are huge possibilities for front suspension and steering. ATV suspension arms carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently using improvised means for this. The best option is to create a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.

The ideal thing is to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design can turn out to be unnecessarily complicated.

Having prepared the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freed up time, you can start creating your own ATV:

We collect the frame (frame). We connect the prepared metal beams, according to the drawing, to each other using spot welding. We check the design and carry out integral welding. Alternatively, you can simply remake the frame from the donor motorcycle - it will turn out no worse.

We install the engine. It can be placed both behind and in front - the main thing is to firmly fix it with bolts on the bottom of the frame.

We mount the drive and transmission on the rear wheels. The drive does not need to be created independently - it goes along with the engine from the donor vehicle and is installed on the frame. Again, it is necessary to securely fasten the drive and transmission to the frame to prevent play.

The steering is also installed from the motorcycle. Together with the steering wheel, the fuel tank "migrates" to the ATV. In general, if you imagine the design, then it will look like this: 3/4 of the ATV is the same Ural or another motorcycle, 1/4 is a home-made frame and suspension. .

We install the wheels from a small-sized vehicle ("Oka" or "ZAZ-968"). The rear wheels can go to the ATV together with the rear axle of the car, or they are mounted as follows: we take ready-made axles with disks, after which we attach the gearbox to the rear for the drive. and put the wheels on the rims
With a gearbox on the rear axle and an engine, we assemble a single drive (again, it will be easier if it is completely rearranged from the donor tool). We do this as follows: from the engine we stretch the chain to the gearbox and fix it, after which we carry out a performance check. In the end, we fix the entire structure on the frame.

The front suspension - independent - is more profitable in terms of time and money, since a four-wheel drive ATV requires a significant improvement of this unit by a professional turner, welder and electrician, which will take a very long time. As an option, we purchase ready-made factory units for ATVs.

Thanks to a reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Frame.

Quad bike frame specification:

Material: 2.5 x 2.5 square profile
Total length: 130 cm
Overall height: 74 cm (seat level)
Overall height: 84 cm (handlebar level)
Wheelbase: 105 cm
Distance between axes: 70.5 cm
Axis tilt: 14 degrees
Track (distance from the outer edge of the tire to the outer edge of the other): front: 105 cm; back: 112 cm
Ground clearance: 7" (with 16" rear wheels)
Materials:
Square profile:

2.5x2.5 square profile - 9.75 meters
Pipes:

1.22 meters - 1 x .065 (inches)
1.22 meters - 3/4 x .065
0.3048 meters - 3/4 x .125
0.915 meters - 5/8 x .125
0.61 meters - 1/2 x .083 T6 aluminum pipe
Rental:

0.61 meters - 1 x 3/16 (inches)
0.915 meters - 1 1/4 x 1/4
0.61 meters - 5 x 1/8 (plate for mounting the engine and suspension)

You will also need spring shock absorbers for the rear and front suspensions.

ATV engine:

Now you need to securely fasten the engine to the frame. The engine is best used from a moped. After screwing it to the frame, connect the motor shaft to the gear on the rear axle with a simple chain drive. After that, bring all the engine controls to the handlebars and fasten the pedals and levers to your frame.

Parts of a body kit or ATV body are best and easiest to make from fiberglass. After manufacturing on wooden or plasticine ingots, the elements of the aerodynamic body kit are adjusted relative to each other, polished and then painted in the desired color, after which they are already attached to the ATV frame. Ideas, as well as some ready-made elements, for example, from a broken car (of course, if you have them available), options for an external body kit can be taken from any production models.
Important:

Remember that in order to use the ATV on public roads, you will need to register it with the traffic police, where you need to register any vehicles with an engine of more than 50 cc and a maximum design speed of more than 50 km / h. Therefore, we recommend that you do not use engines with a volume of more than fifty cubic centimeters.

The frame for the ATV is welded using pipes with a round section, corners and square profiles. At the same time, it is advisable to use elements of various mopeds and motorcycles, because it is there that pipes with high strength are used. Never use water pipes. They do not have the necessary strength and can crack at any time. Then we weld the mounting brackets and fix the engine to the frame. It is better to make your first ATV from a moped engine
Even your children will like it, who will simply be delighted with it. The fact is that children's ATVs on gasoline are a great toy for every child. After all, he does not develop huge speeds, but the guys will have more than enough emotions from overcoming rough terrain. Next, we connect the engine shaft to the rear axle gear using a chain.

We install the ATV control mechanisms on the steering column, and we attach the pedals and levers to the frame. The power and ignition system is taken from the same moped model from which we took the engine. Over time, they can be improved and finalized within reasonable limits, of course. You can choose a motorcycle fuel tank of the appropriate volume. Do not forget also the moment that in the question of how to make an ATV, each stage must be carefully worked out. Therefore, installing a battery on such a machine is simply necessary.

You also need parts to assemble an ATV:

1 - wheels from a motor scooter tourist or ant
2 - tires for a walk-behind tractor 10 inches and wider 4.5 or 5.0
3 - profile pipe 15*15. 17*17. 20*20. 25*25.
4 - bearing 306 - 12 pieces
5 - external CV joint vaz 2109-08 16 pieces of which 4 new 4 used, but working, and 8 can be killed (for any hundred in scrap metal) and 8 anthers.
6 - engine from a moped of at least 150 cc. for example, a viper storm in a place with wiring with an ignition lock, a wheel and a muffler
7 - gear from scooter ant reinforced (all shafts on bearings)
8 - four leading stars with 21 teeth and two new chains
9 - ball bearings with Renault 21 on any disassembly with a shaft and a penny
10 - reactive thrust of the rear axle (short.) from 2101 need-6 pcs
11 - a bunch of different bolts of cutting wheels and electrodes, well, that's all along the way
12 - shock absorbers for a smoped yamaha aprio - 4 pcs from a honda lead 2 pcs and 8 more dead shock absorbers from any yap mopeds (we will cut off the ears from them)

.

In winter, it is easy to convert an ATV by replacing the rear wheels with pneumatics and installing a steering ski in front; the machine thus turns into a snowmobile, and the transformation takes less than an hour. The use of affordable materials in the manufacture of an all-terrain vehicle, the simplicity of design may well ensure the repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.

The MTS frame is made of round pipes, square profiles and corners. Its feature is detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when installing the engine, as well as the front axle beam. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional "water" coupling, a shackle and a lock nut.

To tension the chain connecting the engine with the gearbox, the motor frame (part of the Minsk motorcycle frame) moves; the axle of the rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox to the rear axle. The front and rear fenders are removable (they are not available in the snowmobile version). Docking of the frame elements was carried out by electric welding.

The engine of the motor vehicle is from the Minsk motorcycle, I have no comments on its work. It is possible, of course, to install more powerful engines - from the Voskhod motorcycle or the Tula scooter; it is only necessary to adjust the dimensions of the frame for them. The choice of the "Minsk" engine was due to its efficiency and low weight. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for traveling on a snowmobile with a passenger; it is also possible to tow a skier or sleigh. Starting properties of the motor in both summer and winter are quite satisfactory.

The directional control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels with the help of two rods; for the winter version, a lever and a rod connecting it to the ski fork are provided. The latter is borrowed from a moped. The front axle is from the SZD motorized carriage, although somewhat reduced: sections are cut out of its beams and the central parts (with a torsion bar mounting bolt) are welded to the peripheral ones (with suspension arm bushings). In the winter version, levers, steering knuckles, rods and torsion bars are dismantled.

The steering wheel is from the Tourist scooter, it fits perfectly with the steering shaft with an M10 bolt. Controls are standard, motorcycle. The brake lever is connected by a cable to the brake shoes mounted on the gearbox.

Reducer. Its basis was the hub of the rear wheel of the Tula-200 scooter, to which an asterisk was welded from the side of the brake drum. The rear axle is driven by a chain with a pitch of 19 mm. The transmission brake makes it possible to significantly simplify the design of the rear axle. The sprocket on the axle is fixed with an M14 bolt, the wheel hubs are fastened in the same way, as shown in the drawings. As the basis of the gearbox, you can use not only the wheel hub of the "Tourist", but also other motor vehicles.

The axis of the driving wheels is a bar with a diameter of 30 mm; its ends are machined up to Ø25 mm, turned hubs are put on these places. The wheels are used from a motorized stroller with a size of 5.00X10.0. Winter wheels of the usual design for pneumatic running on low-pressure tires: with plywood rims, aluminum cradles and fastening the chamber with belts. The axle bearings are double-row, they have conical inserts with nuts that fix the axle well and do not require high machining accuracy.

For more information about quad bikes, see this link:

Optional equipment. This includes front and rear trunks, headlights, turn signals and brake lights; their attachment points are shown in the figures.

The design of the all-terrain vehicle is simple, it can be made in just a few days in a rather primitive workshop - of course, if all the components are available. And the possibilities of using such a machine are the widest: as a winch when plowing a garden, to drive a circular saw, as a simple garden tractor (excellent flotation through arable land, so cultivation, hilling, etc.) is possible. In addition, you can increase the cross-country ability by installing twin rear wheels. You can also mount a reverse gear from an SZA motorized carriage, in which the differential is replaced by a shaft, and then the all-terrain vehicle will receive a reverse gear. Rubber wear due to the lack of a differential is not observed, and this does not affect handling.

The quad bike is a great solution for off-road. It is popular with extreme recreation lovers, fishermen, hunters and anyone who needs to get to places where a car cannot pass. This type of transport is easy to manage, has excellent cross-country ability and is quite stable while driving.

Factory ATVs are quite expensive, so craftsmen choose the economy option: they make such cars themselves. Of course, this decision is not for everyone: you need not only to have golden hands and the tools necessary for the job, but also to be well versed in the structure of a car, motorcycle, and the ATV itself.

If there is a persistent desire to independently make this miracle of technology, it’s worth starting with planning. It is necessary to decide on the models on the basis of which the transport will be assembled, and draw up drawings for them. Be sure to think about what tools will be needed in the process of work and make sure that they are in good condition. No matter how boring this lesson may seem, nothing will come of it without preliminary preparation. If for some reason it is not possible to make a drawing yourself, you should find a ready-made version.

Next, you need sources. From a technical point of view, an ATV is a cross between a car and a motorcycle. Accordingly, for its manufacture you will need a motorcycle and a car. It is optimal to choose domestic models in the secondary market, it will be inexpensive, but in terms of quality it is quite satisfactory for the construction of an ATV. It is better to use a small car like "Oka" or "Niva". Of the motorcycles, the Ural is very popular for such purposes, you can take the IZH.

Technology

When the drawings are ready, the sources are purchased, and the tools are waiting in the garage, you can start making a homemade ATV. Ultimately, the life and health of people depends on the quality of work, so we must not rush and do everything consistently.

First you need to choose the engine and cooling system. A motorcycle engine is usually used, since it consumes less gasoline and takes up less space, but you can also take a car engine. Since it can overheat in summer, it is better to take an air-cooled model, optimally forced (using a cooler).

The frame must be assembled so that the engine can be fixed on it. It will be located in front or behind - it does not matter, the main thing is that it is securely fixed. There are two options here:

1. Making a new frame "from scratch" from pipes. In this case, it is necessary to have equipment that allows bending the material.
2. Take the frame from the motorcycle as a basis, remove the excess and add the necessary.

Before making the final version of the frame, it is advisable to do spot welding and refer to the drawings.

How to make an ATV with your own hands based on a finished frame?

It is necessary to remove everything superfluous from it, leaving only the frame itself. The rear part is removed, and pipes are built up in front, and the bridge is welded.

Next, spare parts from the car and additional metal pipes are taken, the best option would be plumbing. To make a frame for a body, you need a pipe 70x40. Its length must be equal to or greater than the length of the spring, and the width is the same as that of the bridge.

The cardan must be connected to the box using a rubber coupling, and to the bridge - using flanges. The drive is easily done with your own hands using a chain from IZH.

If you plan to install springs on shock absorbers, it is advisable to leave the rear swingarm with silent blocks.

After making the frame, it is necessary to fix the engine on it. The muffler can be used homemade.

Transmission

It must be installed with high quality so that there is no backlash. The engine and drive can be removed from the motorcycle, and the wheels can be used from the car. The trunk is easily made from pipes with thin walls.
There are two possible control options:

1. Using the steering wheel (in this case, the base is taken from the car).
2. With the help of a steering wheel from a motorcycle. The fuel tank is taken along with the steering wheel. For a homemade steering shaft, a 20 mm pipe with walls of 2.8 is suitable. There should be a limiter on the bottom.

Suspension can be done either front or rear. In the manufacture of the back, two options are possible:

1. The rear axle of the car is used. It will need to be shortened. The design will be heavy, but there will be a differential, which is useful on the tracks.
2. A gear-cardan design is used. A gearbox is mounted on the rear axle, and wheels are attached to the disks. This is a lighter version of the suspension for a homemade ATV. It does not have a differential, but this is not critical.

The front suspension is used from a motorcycle. You can make an all-wheel drive model, but this is a much more laborious job, and it also requires certain skills in turning.

The pendulum arms are installed so that when turning the wheels of the ATV, they do not cling to the engine. If a Ural frame is used, the wheels should be moved further. Two bipods are welded to the steering column: on the left and right wheels. The A-pillar must be sloped.

ATV with all-wheel drive

For its manufacture, you will need a steering system from a car, a drive from a mechanical transmission, suspension and differentials. The suspension, like the steering, can be removed from the car. The frame in such cases is cooked completely from scratch, starting from the size of the engine of the future ATV. On the front suspension, you should take into account the space for the gearbox for the drive.

Using automotive products purchased on the secondary market, it is possible to assemble vehicles for difficult roads and rural areas relatively inexpensively. One of the budget options for the original is the Ural motorcycle, since it is inexpensive, has a rear-wheel drive and a four-stroke engine. Due to its positive aspects, it is popular.

A self-made ATV is not only a convenient and practical vehicle, it is a reason for pride and an opportunity to demonstrate your skills. Outwardly, it may be inferior to factory designs, but in terms of its technical characteristics, home-made ATVs are no worse.

Perhaps the only negative (apart from the time spent, since a favorite thing is not a burden) is the need to involve auto experts in order to obtain documents and be able to register an ATV.

How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The efforts and time spent are paid off not only with great savings, but also with the result - an exclusive, author's model of a quadric, which no one else has.

The features of assembling a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by the craftsman.

6 best options for the basis ("donor") for setting out with the goal of how to make an ATV.

1. Motorcycle "Ural".
2. Motorcycle "Izh".
3. Motor scooter "Ant".
4. Another scooter (scooter).
5. Niva car.
6. Oka car.

Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.

In addition to parts (accessories) for a quadric, its creator will need:

• assembly "shop" - in this capacity, a fairly spacious garage, equipped with good heating and lighting, will come in handy;
• a set of equipment and tools;
• blueprints.

You may also be interested in our specialist's article, which tells how to make.

Preparation for work, tools and equipment

First of all, you need to carefully consider when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, and others. It is on this basis that it is necessary to make a choice of a “donor” vehicle, having decided how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.

Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and be ready to redo it at your discretion.

List of required tools:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• drill;
• a set of keys;
• various small tools - calipers, hammers, knives, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

For self-manufacturing of the frame, you will also need equipment for bending pipes. In the absence of it, you can rent it or give the necessary work "for outsourcing" to another craftsman. Only with remarkable dexterity can pipes be bent manually by heating the place of the bend with a gas cutter or a burner.

Quad components:

• engine;
• frame;
• rear and front suspension;
• steering;
• brake system;
• cooling system;
• muffler;
• electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
• hull, bodywork.

The muffler is quite possible to make yourself. Everything else is to buy used parts on the shadow market.

Parts selection

ATV frame

Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame will either have to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a finished, used one.

The most important thing is that along the frame the engine is securely bolted to the bottom, which can be located both in front and behind. Also firmly, in order to avoid play, the transmission and drive should be attached to the frame.

As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of not more than 3 mm:

• for spars - 25 mm;
• for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.

Pipes are connected by spot welding, then integral welding is carried out. Ears for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - in the process of mounting units and assemblies.

Reconstruction of an existing frame

To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the back and build up the front. Then weld the elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, the seatposts should be moved 40 - 45 cm.

The front and rear trunks are cut out of a metal sheet and welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, varnishing is not necessary.

Engine

The engine is suitable from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefty" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which for heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".

The engine compares favorably with a scooter due to its low fuel consumption, besides, the scooter-based quadric is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric needs a more powerful engine to transport goods and / or drive off-road.

The power of the engine "Izh-1", "Izh-2" and "Izh Jupiter" - 24 hp, the old "Ural" - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old "Oka" - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.

To travel in hot weather, an ATV needs a cooled engine. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will fit, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.

The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.

2 rear suspension options:

1. The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quadric. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will come out heavier.
2. Cardan-reducer design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.

Please note: ATV requires high ground clearance independent suspension.

Suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.

The tilt of the front suspension strut is mandatory, otherwise the ATV may roll over.

Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil pumps, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.

Steering and chassis

The steering system of an ATV can be either based on an automobile - with a steering wheel, or with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle steering wheel, lever and shaft - at the top, automobile tie rods - at the bottom. Together with the steering wheel of a motorcycle, it is advisable to immediately take a fuel tank.

A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A stroke limiter must be placed below.

In the manufacture of a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace a gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.

The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.

Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs (“Okas” or “Nivas”) and are shod with rubber corresponding to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The braking system is selected depending on the wheels. Steering knuckles - also from Niva or Oka.

Four-wheel drive

If you prefer a four-wheel drive vehicle, you need car steering, differentials, and a manual transmission drive.

The existing frame will not work in this case; a new one should be welded to fit the engine size.

Suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. On the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.

Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special craftsman skills, but also additional labor costs. An alternative option - to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - costs money.

Frame

Making the body is far from the easiest stage in the story, called: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.

First you need to draw, cut and build from pieces of durable foam, glued or fastened with mounting foam, the “blank” of the body. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, smearing each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the body to the frame. In conclusion, dry the body thoroughly, then prime, sand and paint.

An ATV is an all-wheel drive car and a motorcycle, an enduro-cross bike, in one bottle. The features of this type of transport are compactness, tires with deep treads for better off-road traction, 1-2 seats and no roof over your head. This type of transport first appeared in Japan in the 1970s and won the hearts of many off-road romantics. Such transport will be of interest to hunters, fishermen, and those who like to conquer impassable terrain. Many of us dream of such a toy for adults. We will tell you how you can make your dreams come true with your own hands.

Choosing an engine for an ATV

The most important part for your all-terrain vehicle will be the power unit. Most often, motorcycle engines are used (they are economical and small in size). For example, an engine from Ural or Minsk, IZH Planet or IZH Jupiter is suitable. You can adapt the engine from VAZ or Oka to your ATV. To avoid overheating of the engine in the heat, you need to choose a model with an air cooling system. The most popular option is the transfer of automotive forced cooling.

Modernization of an existing frame or drawings from scratch

Before any undertaking, you need an action plan and a design drawing or a finished frame. If you yourself are friends with mathematical calculations, then you can calculate everything yourself. If you can’t make a drawing, then you can contact a specialist or look for a design scheme that suits you on the Internet.

The easiest way is to take the finished frame from the motorcycle as a basis and weld all the missing parts onto it. The order of your actions is as follows: we disassemble the old motorcycle. We leave only the frame. We cut off the rear part of the frame with the pendulum fork fastening. We extend the frame with pipes and weld the bridge (use jibs and scarves). First turn over the automobile bridge so that the quadric can go forward and not backward (because the direction of rotation is reversed on the “Ural” gearbox at the output).

Remember that in case of replacement, the axle gearbox should be easily removed. We are looking for spare parts from a passenger car: 2 front hubs, a rear axle (so that the disks match the fasteners with the hubs), a cardan shaft, front suspension arms, tie rods, a ¾ inch round water pipe.

If there is no donor motorcycle, then the frame is best made from durable alloys: pipes, profiles welded together by spot welding. For the bearing parts of the frame, you can buy water pipes (VGP 25 × 3.2). You must have equipment that will allow you to bend pipes in the right place. For the body, we cook a frame from a 70 × 40 pipe. The length should not be shorter than the spring, and the width should correspond to the size of the bridge. When using jibs, do not forget about the torsional rigidity of the structure.

"Ural" rubber coupling connect the cardan to the box. Through the cross of the hinge, we connect the cardan with the bridge with a flange. If the donor was IL, then the drive is carried out by the native chain.

If your quadric will be with springs on shock absorbers, then leave the rear suspension swingarm with silent blocks. Weld the bridge to the fork (do not forget to reinforce the seams with wide scarves so that it does not vomit later). Instead of a cardan, use the axle shaft from Oka or VAZ. We leave the springs with shock absorbers as they are, do not touch. When the frame design is ready, we proceed to fasten the engine to the bottom of the frame with bolts. The engine can be located in the back or in the front (no difference). The muffler can be homemade, two-section.

Now we mount the transmission on the rear wheels with high quality so that there is no backlash. The drive comes with an engine from an obsolete motorcycle. Wheels on the quadric can be put from the "Niva". If you need a trunk, you can weld it from thin-walled steel pipes. The bumper can be replaced by "kenguryatniki".

Control type

In order for your all-terrain vehicle to be safe to operate, you will have to take care of the type of control. Your ATV can have 2 types of controls: a steering wheel (we take the basis from the car - tie rods) and a steering wheel from a used motorcycle (lever and shaft). The steering shaft can be made from a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. Place a travel stop at the lower end. Thus, at the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

Suspension: front and rear

Your ATV can be fitted with either rear or front suspension. For the rear suspension, this solution is suitable:

1. To make the design lightweight and simple, you need a gear-cardan system. There is no differential in this case.

2. The construction will turn out to be very heavy if you use an automobile bridge (it has to be shortened). In this case, there is a differential that will be needed when driving.

For the front suspension, you can take the suspension from the Urals or IZH as a basis. Installing the front suspension is more time-efficient - it's faster than four-wheel drive, where you will need the help of professional turners, electricians, welders (some refinement will be needed).

To attach the pendulum arms, the front of the motorcycle frame is lengthened. It must be installed so that the turning wheels do not touch the engine cylinders. Therefore, on the Ural frame, the wheels are placed further forward. To increase the geometric cross-country ability, the suspension arms should be as long as possible(these need to be made by yourself). To the steering column (made from the "Ural" cardan) at the bottom we weld two steering bipods side by side: on the right and left wheels. The hubs are attached by means of native ball joints.

When installing the front rack, do not forget about the slope of the rack. This will prevent the steering wheel from knocking out over bumps and will help the steering wheel to return to its place when turning. If there is no tilt, you can fly by inertia, returning the rudder to the opposite position on the road will be very problematic.

4WD ATV

For an all-wheel drive ATV you will need:

- drive from a mechanical transmission with a power take-off gearbox to the front wheels;

Wheel differentials;

Steering on the front wheels (according to the principle of a car);

Independent suspension (can also be multi-link) or dependent suspension.

If it is not possible to assemble everything yourself, they take the suspension from the Oka or front-wheel drive VAZs. We cook the frame from scratch under the engine from the Oka. In the front suspension, we leave room for the front wheel drive gearbox. You can do it yourself: cut off the “stockings” of the bridge and remove the suitable axle shafts from the VAZ from the differential. Turn the engine back to front. Now the axle shafts have become universal joints that drive the front and rear axles.

We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. Another machine built by him testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...

A year has passed since, when leaving the garage, I tried my first ATV with rear-wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain Vehicle - an all-terrain vehicle; similar cars received such an international designation).

Fortunately, at that time a buyer turned up for a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.

A year of work for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").

1 - front wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - silencer;

11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear lock lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission was assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel gearboxes - from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);

5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no low gears or differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);

9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);

12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);

20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.

Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.

Under the dashboard, a part of the Oka dashboard went into action. I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent adhesive tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. Carefully, without gaps, he pasted over the whole blockhead with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin by 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and a plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on even surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making wrinkles. By the way, the fiberglass moderately stretches along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, he thickly smeared one section of the blockhead with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it again with resin on top. I glued the adjacent piece of fabric using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. I had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After wrapping the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not hug bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate a stackomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stackomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with large sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; b - rear

Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and there was not enough experience, dips and pits still remained - I filled them somewhere with one resin, and where with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. Resin was a bit lacking. I bought more already in the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than purchased at the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and back, false tank with underseat, front fenders and front. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with picking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking sealing of recesses with putty with fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.

Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.

Main data of ATV:

Weight, kg…………………………………………430

Length, mm………………………………………2300

Width, mm

(along the outer sidewalls of tires)………1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel……………………………………….1250

on the saddle………………………………………..900

Ground clearance, mm…………………….300

Base, mm…………………………………………1430

Track, mm………………………………………1045

Maximum speed, km/h…………….65

S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm Territory