In the timing unit, which is possessed by 8-valve motors of the domestic Lada Grant, the drive belt is assigned a significant role - to be a connecting element between the two main shafts: distribution and crankshaft. This type of rotation transmission has a somewhat lesser noise effect compared to the chain version of the drive, implemented on the outdated "classic". And everyone knows that the timing belt needs to be replaced.
The process of breaking this "consumable" is always accompanied by the destruction of its integrity. This malfunction leads to the inevitable collision of the valves with the pistons. As a result of this “interaction”, the valves are bent, signaling to the owner that an unpleasant event has arrived - the need to repair the motor.
The most effective way to prevent the negative consequences caused by a broken belt is to replace the timing belt with a high-quality analogue in a timely manner. At the same time, we note that replacing the timing belt is quite feasible with your own hands.
Lada Granta motors, having the index "11183", in contrast to analogue units, will require the replacement of the element in question already by 60 thousand km of the distance covered. This interval is the recommended postulate of the vehicle manufacturer. In order to protect yourself and your “iron horse” to the maximum, you should resort to replacement no later than 40-50 thousand km. It is at this run that the primary signs of wear of the pump (coolant pump) and rollers appear.
Among the often common causes that cause the phenomenon of a broken belt, there is not only wear on the entire structure of the element (rubber and cords), but also jamming of the rollers or bearing of the cooling circuit pump.
Tools
If the belt has become unusable and the further movement of the Lada Grant in the 8-valve version is impossible, then in order for the timing belt to be replaced, and even with our own hands, we need such a set of tools and other devices:
- keys having sizes "10" and "17";
- mount (blade);
- a special key that allows you to adjust the tension roller.
The following instruction shows the process on an 8 valve motor. For the 16-valve version, the process is almost identical to the one shown.
Preparatory stage
Before you replace the timing belt with your own hands, you must definitely remove the terminals from the supply battery. We also dismantle the belt that activates the generator. "Operation" will require maximum access to the elements of attachments included in the timing unit. To do this, remove the wheel and the protective shield. We set the piston of the 1st "boiler" to the well-known position - TDC.
Alternator pulley: how to unscrew the main screw?
It is possible to unscrew the generator pulley fixing bolt by using an ordinary key (indicated in the list). If there is difficulty in this action, we use this method:
- dismantle the plug located on the viewing window of the clutch housing of the transmission unit;
- we find the teeth of the flywheel and, using a large screwdriver and a mount (in the list), we jam them (this prevents the motor shaft from turning and allows you to unscrew the “boring” bolt by applying increased force).
Dismantling
To implement this procedure, it is required to loosen the fixing nut of the roller tensioning the belt branch in LADA Granta. This will cause the entire belt to loosen, and therefore, it can be removed from the timing assembly. It is not recommended to use the usual cutting of the belt without loosening the tensioner. This manipulation will not allow you to effectively hang a new consumable component on the pulley and gear of the shafts.
Algorithm
- We dismantle the pulley. The element itself on the shaft of the LADA Granta generator in the version of 8 valves is removed after removing the locking blade from the indicated window. The pulley is completely removed and set aside.
- We dismantle the lower safety cover on the timing elements. It is fixed with three bolts, which are subject to unconditional (usually trouble-free) unscrewing. Such a design (shield) is endowed with some versions of motors, for example, "11186".
- We take off the belt. This final process in the dismantling "epic" involves the following manipulations:
- initial removal from the gear fixed to the camshaft;
- subsequent dismantling from the pulley, the owner of which is the crankshaft.
It is the last (of the indicated methods) action that implies the logical possibility of the subsequent removal of the tensioner - this is the timing roller in the LADA Granta car. The timing roller itself is subject to uncontested replacement, regardless of the amount of backlash, noise and other criteria.
The Importance of Proper Mounting and Tension Adjustment
We install the belt by applying the correct and well-known algorithm for the sequence of its attachment to the pulleys. Until the moment it is necessary to install a safety shield on the Lada Grant, we perform the procedure for correctly adjusting the degree of belt tension.
It is the correct adjustment of the tension level that is an essential guarantee of ensuring a long belt life (up to the expiration of the recommended replacement interval - 50 thousand km).
About other causes of belt breaks
In the form of all sorts of reasons leading to an unexpected break in the belt, one can single out the inappropriate quality of the material used in the production of both the belt itself and other elements of the timing unit. This fact makes a large army of owners of practical Lada Grants tend to purchase components and consumables only from the original production or analogues produced by famous brands. Among these alternatives there are products manufactured by a manufacturer popular among Grantavodov - Gates. The belt, where the timing roller from the specified manufacturer, has gained enviable popularity among buyers, especially since its resource can approach the critical value of a periodic run of 60 thousand km, which is strongly discouraged.
Conclusion
Do not neglect the recommended interval for replacing the elements of the gas distribution unit indicated here, the value of which is equivalent to a mileage of 50 thousand km. The timing belt must be replaced in a timely manner. Use only high-quality "consumables" from eminent manufacturers, and most importantly, purchased from trusted retailers. These simple measures will allow you to avoid such a costly and unnecessary procedure as repairing the Lada Grant engine.
The second method, using a suspended wheel, was described above. When the marks matched, it is necessary to remove the rubber plug located on the gearbox and open the viewing window. The flywheel is visible in it, the risk on it must also coincide with the slot on the body. The next step is to remove the belt from the alternator drive pulley. To do this, loosen the lower mounting bolt of this unit, and unscrew and pull out the upper one.
Then the generator housing can be moved forward and the belt removed from the pulleys. Immediately, using the moment, you can examine the removed belt for defects and damage, and if necessary, change it. This is followed by an operation to loosen the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley. It often happens that it’s just not possible to do this with a ring wrench, especially after a factory tightening. There are several ways.
- Insert a flat powerful screwdriver or pry bar into the flywheel viewing window, blocking it. Holding the screwdriver with your right hand, loosen the pulley bolt with a 17 mm wrench with your left hand.
- If there is an assistant, the procedure is greatly simplified. One will turn on 4th gear, press and hold the brake pedal, while the second one will unscrew the pulley. It is much more convenient to do this, both hands are free to work.
- Some motorists put a spanner wrench on the pulley bolt and rest it against some element of the body or suspension, after which they turn the crankshaft with the starter in neutral gear. The method is quite dangerous, it is permissible to use it in the most extreme case, when it is impossible to loosen the bolt by other methods.
After the bolt is unscrewed, the pulley is removed and the working part is wiped with a rag. Then you need to loosen the tension roller bolt, the belt tension will loosen and you can remove it. Since the roller should also be changed, it must be unscrewed. The last element that needs to be removed is the bottom cover of the mechanism, it is attached to the engine with three bolts.
This completes the disassembly of the node. Before installing a new roller and timing belt, you need to make sure that the pump drive shaft rotates freely and does not wedge. Otherwise, you will have to make a decision to replace the coolant pump.
Reassembly of the movement
The assembly process is carried out in the reverse order, only at the very beginning you need to make sure that the marks set earlier are in place. Then a new tension roller is installed and a new timing belt is put on the gears, starting from the bottom, from the crankshaft. Supporting the belt in a slight tension with your hand, put it on the camshaft gear so that all the teeth match, and then tighten it with a tension roller.
There are 2 holes in its body, into which you can insert a special plug or round-nose pliers, use them to stretch. After that, tighten the roller bolt with medium force. In order to make sure that the belt is correctly installed and tensioned, it is necessary to make a couple of full turns of the crankshaft, preferably not with a starter, but with a key. Then combine the marks and check again the position of the marks in the viewing window of the flywheel.
There is one caveat: the risk on the camshaft gear can deviate by a couple of mm in one direction or another from the mark on the housing, this is quite acceptable. If the belt is installed incorrectly, the discrepancy will be 1 cm, this is immediately noticeable. It is necessary to loosen its tension again and rearrange the belt one tooth to the right or left, and then repeat the operation. When the new belt is successfully installed and tensioned, you can reassemble the assembly.
When installing the alternator drive belt, remember that the VAZ 2190 does not have a tensioner. Therefore, the body of the unit moves as close as possible to the cylinder block, the belt is put on its pulley completely, and partially on the crankshaft, after which it will be necessary to turn it half a turn so that the consumable falls into place. Further assembly is not a problem; after it, the motor can be started. The operation for such a replacement for a 16-valve Lada Grant engine is distinguished by such details.
- There are two camshafts, the marks will need to be combined, and then checked on two gears.
- It is necessary to change 2 rollers: tension and bypass.
- The new belt will need to be carefully put on the top two gears, passing it past the bypass roller, the process is somewhat more painstaking.
During the replacement work, it is recommended to pay attention to the cleanliness inside the timing mechanism space. As a rule, dust, dirt, products of the old belt in the form of black powder accumulate there, and so on. It will be correct to thoroughly wipe the motor housing, gears and protective cover from the inside.
The whole procedure is quite simple. Knowing how much to change the consumables of the timing mechanism and having a minimum set of devices, everyone is quite capable of doing it on their own.
The process of replacing the fuel filter on the Lada Grant
List of maintenance works 2 and their cost for a Lada Granta car
Replacing the timing Lada Granta 8 valves is required every 75 thousand kilometers. If you ignore the planned replacement of the belt, tensioner pulley and sometimes the pump (coolant pump), then you can run into a serious repair of the Lada Granta engine. After all, a broken timing belt almost always leads to damage to valves, valve seats and even pistons. Therefore, the timing drive must be treated very carefully. Once every 15 thousand, it is imperative to inspect the belt for breaks, cracks, delamination or oiling.
The advice applies to VAZ-, 11186 and 21116 engines. All of them are 8-valve and are installed in Grant cars. Consider replacement steps.
First, remember a simple rule: the 11183 motor cannot bend its valves, so you can rotate the crankshaft and camshaft pulley separately. For motors 11186 and 21116 this would be unacceptable!
Detailed diagram of the timing drive Lada Granta
The crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) is disconnected from the connector (see photo). Then the fixing screw is unscrewed with a “10” key. The sensor itself needs to be dismantled.
Installation of all shafts by marks
First check that the gear is in neutral. There is a rubber cover on the crankcase closer to the clutch assembly. She needs to be removed.
The point is to achieve alignment of the marks on the flywheel and in the scale slot. When this is done, the flywheel is fixed with a screwdriver.
Of course, such an operation is easier to perform together. Know that the desired position of the shaft corresponds to the combination of marks A-B and C-D (see figure).
The crankshaft itself must be rotated to the right using the key “17” or “19” (motor 11183). The meaning of what has been said is illustrated in the photo.
The key "13" loosen the lower mounting bolt. Then unscrew the upper fixing nut and remove the bolt. The generator casing is pressed against the engine and the structure is fixed with wire. The belt can now be removed. Installation of the generator belt is carried out in the following sequence: 1 . Fix the generator; 2 . Throw the belt over the pulleys, as shown in the photo;
Know that reusing the alternator belt is a last resort. It would be better to buy a new part.
Timing Belt Replacement
Let the engine flywheel be properly installed and locked (see above). Then, using the “17” or “19” key (ICE 11183), unscrew the screw holding the generator drive pulley. The pulley itself and the protective washer are then removed.The pulley must not interfere
Now you need to loosen the clamping force in the tension roller: 11186/21116 - using the “round” key “by 15”, unscrew the mounting bolt by 2-3 turns. The roller will “release” the belt automatically;
Automation will work to weaken
11183 - with the key "17" you need to loosen the fastening nut. Then the roller itself is rotated clockwise. It remains to replace: a new part is installed in place of the old timing belt, and that's it. The rest of the parts are assembled in the reverse order.Basic replacement operation
To increase downforce, the outer roller assembly is rotated counterclockwise. For motors 11186/21116, an additional requirement must be met: the two rectangular marks must match.
Mandatory requirement for motors 11186/21116
Upon completion of the installation, the marks A-B and C-D must also match. The drawing for them is given above.
Tightening torques
To perform the installation correctly, you need a key with a force regulator. The value on it is set depending on the type of part: Tension roller mounting screw (11186/21116) - 17-27 N * m; Roller mounting nut (11183) - 30-36 N * m; Alternator pulley fasteners - 105–110 N * m. First, tension is adjusted on the roller, and then the fixing nut or bolt is tightened. Details from the VAZ catalog Immediately consider the list of nodes and special tools VAZ: Tension roller for ICE 11183 - 2108-1006120, nut for it - 00001-0021647-21; Timing belt (11183) - 2108-1006040-10; Automatic tension roller - 21116-1006226; Timing belt (11186/21116) - 21116-1006040; Key for automatic roller - 67.7812.9573-01; The key for the VAZ-11183 roller is 67.7834.9525. The tension roller of the "2108" family has two slots on one side. These slots should look "up", that is, away from the engine.
The slots were made for a special tool. It is designated by the numbers "67.7834.9525" (see list). And for automatic rollers, the key is designated differently - “67.7812.9573”. How it looks is shown below.
Roller can also be adjusted
It remains to list how the fixing bolts, washers, and so on are indicated: Three bolts for the VAZ-11183 cover - 00001-0009024-11, washers - 00001-0026406-01; Timing drive cover (11183) - 21080-1006146-10; Bolts from covers VAZ-21116 - 2108-1003286-00, spring washers - 00001-0011977-73; Top cover - 21116-1006226-00, bottom cover - 21116-1006218-00. We hope there are no questions here. Import analogues Different accessories are suitable for replacing belts "2108-1006040-10": GATES - 5521 or 5521XS; BOSCH - 1 987 949 095; DAYCO - 94089; CONTITECH-CT527; Finwhale - 2108-1006040. The timing belt "21116-1006040" can be replaced with another part: GATES - 5670XS; CONTITECH-CT1164; QUARTZ (Germany) - QZ-5670XS. Usually the choice is made in favor of GATES products. The letters "XS" in her catalog stand for "reinforced".
Attention! Components from GATES (England) are most often counterfeited! From the photo you can see what the main difference is. Beware of fakes.
Timing Belt Replacement Video Grants
Starting with the VAZ-2108 model, the Volga Automobile Plant switched to using a timing belt drive, and continues to use it on modern models, including the Lada Grant.
This type of drive has a number of advantages over a chain drive, including:
- no need for lubrication, which makes it possible to move the timing drive to the outside of the motor;
- noiseless operation and easier replacement process.
But the belt also runs much less than the chain. Therefore, the basis for a long and trouble-free operation of the power plant is the timely inspection of the condition of the belt and its replacement.
Replacement frequency
The manufacturer's technical documentation indicates that the timing belt on the Lada Grant must be replaced every 60 thousand kilometers.
But here it is worth noting that this is a marginal value and it is better to replace it before reaching such a mileage, approximately 50 thousand km, but there are times when the drive needs to be replaced by 40 or even 30 thousand km, it all depends on the quality of the belt and its working conditions.
In any case, it is better to periodically check the condition of the drive (recommended every 15 thousand km) and, if signs of wear are found, immediately replace it.
If this is not done, then it may break, which is fraught with serious consequences - the engine pistons will collide with open valves, leading to their damage and subsequent costly repairs.
Design features of the drive of different engines
To understand how service work is performed with a timing drive, let's first consider its design.
So, the drive of the gas distribution mechanism is carried out from the crankshaft. At the same time, the gas distribution phases in the engine cylinders have 4 cycles and they are performed in two complete revolutions of the crankshaft.
But 2 of these cycles occur with closed valves, so the camshaft must provide only one closing and opening of the valves for all 4 cycles.
Therefore, for two revolutions of the crankshaft, only one revolution of the camshaft is carried out. Moreover, this is achieved quite simply - due to the different diameters of the drive toothed pulleys.
The belt has a toothed working surface, which prevents it from slipping on the pulleys. In addition to transmitting force from the crankshaft, the belt performs another function - it drives the cooling system pump.
In this case, the drive must be constantly tensioned to prevent jumping of the teeth on the pulleys, therefore, a tension roller is included in its design.
This is the entire drive design, that is, it includes only two toothed pulleys (crankshaft and camshaft), a pump gear, a tension roller and the belt itself.
All this is located on the side of the engine, and not inside. But in order to prevent the ingress of dirt and technical liquids that can harm the belt, all elements are covered with protective shields.
But this describes the design of a gas distribution mechanism for 8 valves, for the drive of which only one camshaft is used.
But some Lada Granta models are equipped with engines with a 16-valve distribution mechanism and two camshafts. But because of this, the design of the drive does not change much.
Unlike the 8-valve, there is not one, but a camshaft and, accordingly, two toothed pulleys, and another roller has been added to the design - a bypass, which is also a support. This is where all the differences ended.
Checking the condition and tension
As already noted, so that a broken belt does not lead to serious problems, it is necessary to periodically check its condition and tension.
Checking the condition of the belt is quite simple and you can do it yourself.
To do this, it is necessary to unscrew and remove the protective covers of the drive, jack up the front right wheel, engage in overdrive and spin the wheel.
The included gear will provide rotation of the crankshaft and timing drive through the gearbox.
When rotating, carefully inspect the belt. If any defects or signs of wear are noticed on it - torn teeth, rubber peeling from the threads, cracks, significant abrasions, then the belt must be changed regardless of the mileage.
Additionally, when checking the condition of the drive, its tension should also be assessed.
Although a roller with automatic tension is used on Grant, it is impossible to rely on the fact that it works normally and it is better to check the tension, all the more it is very simple to perform.
The belt must be taken with two fingers in the middle of the section opposite the tension roller, that is, on the span between the shaft pulleys and rotated clockwise.
Moreover, even if it is impossible to twist it at an angle of more than 90 degrees, even with a significant effort, then the belt is tensioned normally. If it twists at a larger angle, then it is necessary to adjust its tension.
What you need to replace the belt
So, to perform the work, you will need such a tool, devices:
- A set of open-end and box wrenches of the most common sizes;
- A set of hexagons;
- Powerful screwdriver or mounting spatula, pry bar;
- A special wrench for tensioning the tension roller, or at least round-nose pliers for removing the circlips;
- Marker;
- Rags.
Naturally, you will need a new belt of the appropriate size, as well as a new tensioner, since it must be replaced along with the belt. Having prepared all this, you can proceed to disassembly.
Disassembly
The sequence of work is as follows:
- We install the car on a flat area, or in the garage. The negative terminal is removed from the battery;
- Jack up the right front wheel and remove it from the car. Disconnect the wiring from the crankshaft position sensor. If there are protective pads on the fender liner that prevent access to the crankshaft pulley, we also dismantle them. In general, we remove everything that can interfere with access;
- With a 5 hexagon, we unscrew the bolts securing the upper protective cover of the timing drive and remove it. We loosen the fastening and tension of the generator, shift it towards the engine and remove the drive belt;
- In order to better see the marks on the camshaft pulley, we put an additional mark on it with a marker;
- We rotate the crankshaft for the bolt of the generator drive pulley until the mark on the camshaft pulley aligns with the mark on the cylinder head protrusion. After that, remove the rubber plug of the inspection hatch located on the flywheel housing. There are also marks on the special ledge and the flywheel itself. And if, after aligning the marks on the camshaft pulley through the hatch, it is noticeable that they coincided on the flywheel, then further work can be continued, since this indicates that the piston of the 1st cylinder was installed at TDC.
But if the marks on the flywheel do not match, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft another 2 turns, the main thing is that all the alignment marks are aligned; - We unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley. At the same time, it is important to prevent even the slightest turning of the crankshaft and displacement of the marks. To unscrew the bolt, you can use a pry bar or a powerful screwdriver.
We drive it into the inspection hatch between the teeth of the flywheel and rest against the crankcase, thereby blocking the crankshaft. You can do it differently: ask an assistant to turn on speed 4 or 5 at the checkpoint, and also give out the brake pedal, thereby using the transmission to prevent the crankshaft from turning while unscrewing the bolt; - After completely unscrewing the bolt, carefully remove the alternator drive pulley and the washer installed under it;
- Using a hexagon, unscrew the bolts securing the lower protective cover. Providing full access to the belt;
- We loosen the tension roller bolt with the key, after which it will loosen the belt tension. Before removing it, we once again check the coincidence of all installation marks;
- Carefully remove the belt first from the tension roller, and then from the teeth of the camshaft, pump and crankshaft. After that, completely unscrew the fastening of the tension roller and remove it. This completes the disassembly.
Disassembly features of a 16-valve engine
As for the 16-valve engine, the disassembly in sequence is completely identical to that described, with the exception of one point - setting marks. Since this engine uses two camshafts, the marks must be aligned on both, and do not forget about the marks on the flywheel.
Also, during disassembly, in addition to the tension roller, you will also have to dismantle the bypass roller, since it is also subject to replacement.
After removing the belt, you should also check the play of the bearings on the pump. If it is significant, then it is better to replace it immediately. Otherwise, it may soon fail after replacing the belt and the need to re-disassemble the drive, since the pump changes only after the drive is dismantled.
Note that after removing the belt, it is important to ensure that you do not accidentally turn one of the shafts while installing a new one.
Assembly, verification
The drive is assembled in the reverse order, but with certain nuances. First, we put the tension roller in place and bait the bolt of its fastening, but do not tighten it.
In a 16-valve engine, before putting on the belt, we put both rollers in place, but unlike the tension bypass, you can immediately tighten them.
The belt is worn from the bottom up. That is, first the teeth of the belt are installed on the crankshaft pulley, then it is thrown onto the pump, then it starts behind the rollers, and only then it is put on the camshaft pulley.
After installing the belt, it is tensioned. To do this, a special key or round-nose pliers are installed in special holes in the outer cage of the tension roller, after which it turns clockwise until the notch on this cage aligns with the rectangular recess on the inner sleeve.
While holding the roller in this position, the bolt of its fastening is tightened.
Having finished with the tightening, we reinstall the lower protective cover, the washer and the generator drive pulley. After that, we check the correctness of the work.
To do this, first check the coincidence of all the marks, then turn the crankshaft a few turns, and then combine all the marks again. If they converge, the replacement work has been done correctly and you can proceed with the assembly. Here we note that a slight deviation is allowed on any marks, but not more than a couple of millimeters.
When checking the coincidence of marks on a 16-valve engine, this action should be given more attention, since there are two camshafts, and a mismatch of marks on any of them can lead to significant interruptions in the operation of the motor.
And only after such a check, everything is going further - the generator drive, the upper protective cover, the wiring of the crankshaft position sensor are installed.
Interchangeability of parts
When performing a replacement, it is important to use components designed only for installation on Lada Granta engines.
But it is worth mentioning that the same power plants are also used on other VAZ models, for example, on Priora. At the same time, if the belt is the same for them, then the tension rollers for the Grant and Prior motors are different, and they are not interchangeable.
On Grant, this element is larger in diameter, but the plastic work surface is narrower than on Priora.
Of course, you can install the roller from Priora by slightly sharpening the edges of the plastic, as well as placing a washer under it, since the thickness of the metal part of the Grant element is greater.
But due to the difference in diameter, you will have to tighten it more, significantly reducing the range of automatic adjustment.
Therefore, if a drive replacement is planned, then it is necessary to find original spare parts in advance, while sellers who assure that a drive element from another model will do is better not to believe.
Finally, we note that the whole process of replacing the timing belt with a Lada Grant is not so complicated and even a novice motorist can perform this operation.
The main thing is to make sure that you have everything you need and do the work slowly and carefully.
The gas distribution mechanism is one of the most important systems of an internal combustion engine. The timing belt controls the valves of the engine, carrying out the normal functioning of the intake and exhaust. During intake, the fuel-air mixture enters the combustion chambers as a result of the opening of the intake valve. The next phase opens the exhaust valve, and the gas distribution mechanism removes exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. The VAZ 2190 uses a standard gas distribution unit, which differs only in the number of engine valves.
Timing characteristics of Lada Grants
The gas distribution mechanism of Lada Granta has a drive in the form of a belt. Such a device is familiar to motorists for a long time. After all, the design of the timing migrated from the VAZ 2108 engine, which became the basis for all subsequent modifications of the VAZ power plants. Two types of engines are installed on the Grant: an 8-valve engine and a 16-valve engine. The gas distribution system of the 16-valve power unit has a complex structure and increased dimensions compared to the 8-valve one. Accordingly, replacing the timing belt Grants becomes more difficult.
The main feature of the 16-valve device is the presence of two camshafts operating synchronously, in parallel with the crankshaft. The design is located in the cylinder head. All three shafts are synchronized by means of a toothed belt. The main disadvantage of a timing belt drive is the unreliability of the belt itself. During its break or when jumping, the valves meet the pistons and bend. The structure of the 16-valve timing is clearly shown in the photo.
16-valve unit
- Mounting mark on the drive cover.
- Lid.
- Intake camshaft pulley.
- Phase disk (sensor).
- TDC mark on camshaft.
- Release camshaft pulley.
- Support roller.
- Roller tensioner.
- Drive belt.
- Pump pulley (coolant pump).
- Mounting mark on the oil pump.
- Crankshaft alignment mark.
- Crankshaft pulley.
The timing kit can be changed by hand. The main thing is to know about the presence and correct placement of installation marks. By the way, most foreign cars are devoid of such marks, so in this case, VAZ cars have an advantage.
The eight-valve timing drive of Lada Grants, in comparison with previous modifications of the car, looks simpler. The scheme is simple, because there is no bypass roller and there is only one camshaft. You can clearly see the timing device for 8 valves in the photo.
If you have doubts about your own abilities, you do not need to try to replace the timing belt with your own hands, as you can do even more harm. In addition, in a car service, such a procedure performed on an 8-valve engine is inexpensive. But in the case of a 16-valve engine, the price tag is usually much higher.
Replacing the timing belt on a 16-valve engine Grants
Access to the drive of the gas distribution device is closed by a plastic casing. To remove the cover, you need to unscrew the five screws with a 5 hex wrench. Pay special attention to the location of these screws. In the photo, number 1 shows the fixing screws of the top cover, and number 2 shows the screws for fixing the bottom cover. After unscrewing the five screws, the top cover must be lifted and removed from the engine.
If the car has a manual transmission, you need to turn on the fifth speed, hang out the right front wheel and turn it clockwise. At the same time, it is required to inspect the belt for cracks, scuffs, delaminations, etc. If the car is equipped with an automatic transmission, you need to remove the right front wheel and boot (protective shield) on the right. The 17 head rotates the drive pulley bolt for additional equipment (air conditioning, generator) and inspects the belt. If various defects and damages of the belt are diagnosed, it must be urgently replaced. Replacement will also be required in case of detection of oil leaks, a malfunction of the water pump and the tensioner roller.
On a 16-valve engine, a broken belt drive will lead to a discrepancy in the angular arrangement of the crankshaft and camshafts. As a result, the piston group will contact the valves. As a result, repairs will be required.
