Geely mk convergence. Service Manual Geely Mk

23.06.2020

Section 3 Front Wheel Alignment
Adjustment:
1. Check tires
(Fig. 170)
Vehicle Height:
Tire size
Front
1
(mm)
rear
2
(mm)
175/65R1482H
191 265 185 / 60R15 84H
192 265 1.
Vehicle front height measuring point
Measure the distance from the ground to the center of the front lower suspension set bolt
2.
Rear height measuring point
Measure the distance from the ground to the center of the rear axle beam set bolt
Note:
Set the required height of the vehicle before starting the wheel alignment. If the height does not correspond to the norm, the adjustment must be made by loading the car or lifting it.
3. Check the front wheel alignment(Fig. 171)
Required value : 1±2mm.
If the toe-in of the front wheels is not correct, adjust it with the steering rods.
4. Adjusting the convergence of the front wheels(Fig. 172)
(1) Remove the clamp from the steering gear cover.
(2) Loosen the tie rod lock nut
(3) Adjust the toe-in of the front wheels by turning the ends of the steering gear equally.
Clue: set the toe-in of the front wheels to the middle value of the allowable range.
(4) Make sure both sides are the same length
The difference in length on the left and right should not exceed 1.5 mm.
(5) Tighten the tie rod lock nut (Fig. 173)
Tightening torque: 47 Nm.
Before
Rear end
Before
Rice. 170
Rice. 171
Rice. 172
Rice. 173

88
(6) Install cover and tighten clamp.
Hint: The steering gear cover must not be twisted.
5. Check the maximum steering angle(Fig. 174)
Fully turn the wheels and measure the angle
Wheel Angle:
Vehicle with power steering
Inner wheel 37.2°±2°
Outer wheel 32°±2°
If the wheel alignment is out of range, check the rack length at the left and right ends.
6. Check camber angle, caster angle and lean angle
steerable bridge
Camber angle
-0°30" ± 45" (-0.5° ± 0.75°)
45"(0.75°) or less
Pitch angle
Manual steering
Difference for left-right wheel
9-1 1°46" ± 45" (1.76° ± 0.75°)
45" (0.75°) or less
Pivot Angle
Manual steering
Power Steering
Difference for left-right wheel
9°54" ± 45" (9.90° ± 0.75°)
45" (0.75°) or less
If the kingpin or kingpin angle is out of specification, check the suspension components for damage and wear after adjusting the camber angle.
7. Camber adjustment
Note:
After adjusting the camber, check the wheel alignment.
(1) Remove the front wheel
(2) Unscrew the two nuts under the shock absorber (Fig. 175)
When reusing bolts, apply machine oil to their threads.
(3) Clean the mounting surfaces of the steering knuckle and shock absorber.
Int.
External
Before
Rice. 174
Rice. 175

89
(4) Thread two nuts onto the bolts.
(5) Adjust the camber angle by pushing or pulling the bottom of the shock in the direction of desired change.
(6) Tighten nuts
Tightening torque: 132 Nm.
(7) Install the front wheel
Tightening torque: 103 Nm.
(8) Check wheel alignment
Hints:

Set the camber of the front wheels to an average value from the acceptable range.

Bolt Adjustment: 6" 30" (0.1°
0.5°)
Using the table below, set the correct adjustment if the camber is out of specification, then select the camber adjustment bolts (Fig. 176).
Note: Use new nuts and washers when adjusting camber.
Bolt standard
Adjusting bolt
A B C
1 point
2 points
Bolt
Adjustment value
1 2 1 2 1 2 15"

30"

45"

1°00"

(9) Repeat previous steps, replace 1 or 2 bolts.
Clue:
If both bolts need to be replaced, replace them one at a time.
Adjusting bolt
Rice. 176

90
Section 4 Front suspension strut
Replacement
1. Remove the front wheel
2. Remove the brake hose
(1) Remove the bolts, brake hose and ABS sensor wiring clamp from the shock absorber holder (for vehicles with
ABS).
(2) Turn off bolts and a brake hose from the holder of the shock-absorber.
3. Remove the coil spring front shock absorber:
(1) Remove the 2 bottom nuts and bolts.
(2) Remove the three mounting bolts for the upper shock absorber mount.
4. Install two bolts and nuts on the bottom holder
shock absorber. Install shock absorber on vise
5. Compress the coil spring until pressure is removed from the top
supports. Do not allow the coils to touch. (Fig.
179)
Risk of injury!
Note:
6. Remove the top cover of the front shock absorber
7. Remove
top
support
front
left
shock absorber, holding it from turning with a screwdriver or similar tool, and unscrew the central nut (Fig. 177)
Note:
Attention: the nut is not reusable
8. Remove the washer of the upper shock absorber support
9. Remove the top gasket of the left front twisted
springs
10. Remove the corrugated casing of the front left shock absorber
11. Remove the left front coil spring
12. Remove the bottom gasket of the front left
springs.
13. Remove the left front damper. Check it for wear. If necessary, replace.
14. Checking the left front shock absorber:
Check for tightness, insufficient resistance and extraneous sounds during compression and exit of the rod. If there are discrepancies, replace. (Fig. 178)
15. Install the left front damper
Rice. 177
Rice. 178
Rice. 179
Rice 180

91
16. Establish the bottom lining of a forward left spring.
17. Install the left front coil spring
(1) Compress the coil spring with the special spring removal tool. (Fig. 179)
Risk of injury! Check the attachment of the special tool before each use!
Note: Do not use an impact wrench to compress the spring
(2) Install the coil spring on the shock absorber
Attention: fix the lower side of the helical spring in the lock of the lower spring seat (Fig. 180).
18. Install the front left shock absorber bellows
Install the top gasket with the “
” away from the vehicle. (Fig.
180)
19. Install the upper seat of the left front coil spring
Install the top slot with the mark “
” away from the vehicle.
20. Install the upper shock mount washer
21. Install the upper support of the front left
shock absorber with a nut.
(1) Hold the support from turning by the studs with a screwdriver or similar object (Fig. 181).
Install a new center nut.
Tightening torque: 33 Nm.
Note: do not damage the top support studs
(2) Remove special tool
(3) Apply multi-purpose grease to the upper shock absorber mount (Fig. 182)
22. Install the top cover of the front left
shock absorber
23. Install the front shock
(1) Install the shock absorber upper support washer
(2) Tighten the top three shock absorber nuts.
Tightening torque: 39 Nm.
(3) Install shock absorber on steering knuckle
(4) Lubricate the bolt threads with engine oil
(5) Install two bolts and nuts
Tightening torque: 132 Nm.
24. Install the brake hose
Tightening torque: 29 Nm.
25. Install the front wheel
Tightening torque: 103 Nm.
Attention: after work it is necessary to check the wheel alignment!
Multipurpose grease
Rice. 181
Rice. 182

92
Section 5 Front axle beam
Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels
2. Remove the front engine protection.
3. Remove the hood
4. Hang the engine
5. Remove the left front reinforcement link
suspension by unscrewing 2 bolts.
6. Remove the right front reinforcement rod
suspension by unscrewing 2 bolts.
7. Dismantle
left
lower
front
wishbone suspension(Fig. 183)
(1) Remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut
(2) Remove the ball joint pin from the steering knuckle using a special tool
8.
Remove the front stabilizer:
(1) Unscrew the nuts, remove the three stoppers and two gaskets, holding the stabilizer bolt from turning.
(2) (Fig. 184)
(3) Remove the front stabilizer bar by unscrewing the four center mounting bolts.
(Fig. 185)
9. Remove the steering gear
Turn off two bolts and disconnect the steering mechanism from a beam of the bridge (fig. 186).
Fig.183
Rice. 184
Rice. 185
Rice. 186

93
10. Remove the front axle beam
(1) Turn off a bolt and two nuts of the central fastening. (fig. 187)
(2) Raise the front axle beam with a hydraulic jack
(3) Disconnect the front axle beam by unscrewing
4 bolts (Fig. 188)
11. Disconnect the front transverse arms from
front axle beams:
Unscrew the two bolts, remove the front suspension arms (Fig. 189).
Attention: Do not turn nuts.
12. Check the guide joints of the front
wishbones
(1) Before measuring, turn the ball joint 5 times as shown in the figure (Fig. 190).
(2) Continuously turn the nut at a speed of 2-4 seconds per revolution with a torque wrench, and record the torque value at the 5th revolution.
The tightening torque must be 0.783.43 Nm.
13. Fasten the bolts of the front left
lower arm to fix it on the beam
front axle(Fig. 191)
Rice. 187
Figure 188
Rice. 189
Rice. 190
Rice. 191

94
14. Install the front axle beam on
automobile
(1) Fasten the front axle beam with four bolts (Fig. 192)
Torque:
Bolt A: 70 Nm
Bolt B: 116 Nm
(2) Install the bolt and two nuts of the center mount (Fig. 193)
Tightening torque: 52 Nm
15.
Fasten the steering mechanism to the front axle beam with two bolts. (Fig. 194)
Tightening torque: 127 Nm
16. Install the front stabilizer
(1) Install the front stabilizer with four bolts (Fig. 195)
Tightening torque: 37 Nm
(2) Tighten nuts, install three stoppers and two spacers
(left) while holding the stabilizer bolt from turning. (Fig. 196)
Note: Jack up the front lower control arm
(3) Do the same for the right side.
Rice. 192
Rice. 193
Rice. 194
Rice. 195
Rice. 196

95
17. Install the left lower front transverse arm
(1) Install the left lower front suspension block to the steering knuckle with nuts
Tightening torque: 98 Nm
(2) Install a new cotter pin
Note: If the holes do not line up, turn the nut an additional 60° in the direction of tightening.
18. Install the left front suspension reinforcement link with two bolts
Tightening torque: 47 Nm
19. Install the right front suspension reinforcement link with two bolts
Tightening torque: 47 Nm
20. Install the front wheel
Tightening torque: 103 Nm
21. Lower the car
22. Tighten the bolts of the front transverse arms on the beam of the front
bridge.
Bolt A: 88 Nm
Bolt B: 132 Nm
Attention: Do not turn nuts.
23. Install the hood
24. Check and adjust the angles of the front wheels

96
Section 6 Front Anti-roll Bar
Dismantling
1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the bolts of the front stabilizer
(1) Remove two nuts, five stoppers, four spacers and stabilizer bolts, holding the bolts from turning (Fig. 197).
(2) Do the same for the other side.
3. Dismantle
internal
mounts
front stabilizer: remove the 4 bolts and stabilizer inner brackets (Fig.
198)
4. Install the front stabilizer
Install the front stabilizer bar by securing it with the mounting bushings, brackets and four bolts.
Tightening torque: 37 Nm
Note:
The groove must point towards the rear of the vehicle.
Attention:
The bushings must be outside the paint line
5. Install the outer bolts of the front
stabilizer
(1) Tighten the front stabilizer bolts, install five stoppers and four spacers, keeping the bolts from turning (Fig. 199)
Tightening torque: 18 Nm
(2) Do the same for the other side.
6. Install the front wheel
Tightening torque: 103 Nm.
Mounting marks
Rice. 197
Rice. 198
Rice. 199

97
Chapter 6 Rear Suspension System
Section 1 Rear Suspension System
Component overview
Rice. 200
Nm: Tightening torque
Parts not to be reused
With ABS system
Wheel speed sensor wiring
Upper spring spacer
Left rear coil spring
Rear shock absorber assembly
bottom gasket
Top gasket
bottom gasket
Left rear coil spring
brake hose
Bracket load sensing valve
Rear suspension cross member
clamp
Pad
brake hose

98
I. Description of the structure of the rear suspension
This car model is equipped with an independent suspension with a stabilizer.
The table below shows the main technical parameters of the front suspension
Element
Options
Diameter of the working cylinder of the shock-absorber, mm 38
Shock absorber piston rod diameter, mm 12.4
Shock absorber travel, mm 250
Camber
-0°56" ± 45"
wheel alignment
, mm
3 ± 3
Note: the wheel alignment parameters in the table are given for the car without load
II.
Fault table
Use the table below to help resolve the issue. The numbers indicate the priority of the likelihood of failure. Check all nodes in the order listed, replace if necessary.
Symptom
Cause

3. Worn hub bearing
Pulling the car to the side
1. Car is overloaded
2. Broken or sagged spring
Subsidence of the car body
1. Damaged tire or incorrect tire pressure
2. Wrong type of wheels installed
Vehicle swing
3. Shock Absorber Malfunction
1. Damaged tire or incorrect tire pressure
2. Incorrect rear wheel alignment
3. Shock Absorber Malfunction
Vibration of the rear wheels
4. Wrong type of wheels installed
1. Damaged tire or incorrect tire pressure
2. Incorrect rear wheel alignment
3. Shock Absorber Malfunction
Tire wear
4. Damaged or worn suspension parts

99
Section 2 Rear wheel alignment
Adjustment:
1. Check tire pressure
2. Measure the height of the car
Note:
Before adjusting the toe-in, set the required vehicle height.
3. Check rear wheel alignment(fig. 201)
Toe A+B: 0°19" ± 19"
(0.31 ± 0.31°)
General
C+D: 3.0 ± 3.0 mm
If the wheel alignment is out of tolerance, check and replace the appropriate suspension components.
4. Check the camber angle
(1) Install a device for measuring camber angles, caster and kingpin transverse tilt, install the car on the ring positioner
(2) Check the camber angle
Camber angle
-0°56" ± 45" (-0.93° ± 0.75°)
Difference for left-right wheel 45"
(0.75°) or less
If the measurements are out of specification, check the suspension parts for damage and deterioration in performance, and replace if necessary.
Forward
Rice. 201

100
Section 3 Left/Right Coil Spring Rear Suspension
Replacing the rear spring
1. Remove the rear wheel
2. Remove the yaw rate sensor wiring
wheels(for vehicles with ABS)
(1) Disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector
(2) Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel speed sensor from the rear axle frame (Fig. 202).
Note:
Dismantling the wiring of the right sensor is carried out in the same way as the left one.
3. Remove the detection valve holder
loads(for vehicles without ABS)
Unscrew the two nuts and remove the load sensing valve holder from the axle holder (Fig.
203)
4. Remove the pressure relief valve and
(fig. 204)
(1) Remove the pressure relief valve and the right rear brake pipe using the special tool
(2) Dismantle clamps
Note: clips are not reusable
5. Remove the pressure relief valve and
left rear brake pipe
Note:
To remove the rear brake pipe, follow the same steps as for dismantling the pressure limiting valve and the right rear brake pipe.
6. Remove the right handbrake cable, after unscrewing the nuts, dismantle the right handbrake cable from the rear axle frame (Fig. 205)
7. Remove the left handbrake cable
8. Lower the rear axle beam by unscrewing the two
bolt(fig. 206)
Rice. 202
Fig.203
Rice. 204
Rice. 205
Rice. 206

101
9. Remove the left rear shock absorber.
(1) Using a jack, raise the rear beam at the shock absorber attachment point (Fig. 207)
(2) Unscrew the nuts, remove the washer and the left rear shock absorber.
10. Remove the right rear shock absorber
Note:
The right rear shock absorber is dismantled in the same way as the left rear shock absorber.
11. Remove the left rear coil spring
Slowly lower the jack and remove the coil spring and spring spacers.
12. Install left rear coil spring
(1) Install the top gasket, the gap should be to the right of the coiled spring (Fig. 208)
(2) Install the bottom gasket and install the left spring on the rear axle.
13. Attach the left rear shock absorber
(1)
Jack up and install the left rear shock absorber on the rear beam (Fig. 209)
(2)
Temporarily fix nuts and gaskets
14. Screw on the lower fastening of the right rear
shock absorber
Note: The right rear shock is installed in the same way as the left rear shock.
15. Install the right handbrake cable with
using nuts (Fig. 210).
Tightening torque: 5.4 Nm
16. Install the left handbrake cable
Tightening torque: 5.4 Nm
17. Install the pressure relief valve and
right rear brake pipe
(1) Install the pressure limiting valve and the right rear brake pipe using the special tool (Fig. 211)
Tightening torque: 1.5 Nm
(2) Install new clips
18. Install pressure relief valve and right rear brake pipe
Note:
The installation of the right valve and tube is carried out in the same way as the installation of the left one.
Figure 207
Rice. 208
Rice. 209
Figure 210
Rice. 211

102
19. Connect the wiring of the corner sensors
wheel speed(for vehicles with
ABS)
Fix the wiring of the wheel speed sensors on the right and left sides (Fig. 212).
Tightening torque: 8.0 Nm
20. Install the detection valve holder
loads(for vehicles without ABS)
Install the load sensing valve holder with two bolts (Fig. 213)
21. Tighten
mounts
left
rear
shock absorber
(1) Align shock absorber
(2) Tighten the bolts
Tightening torque: 82 Nm
22. Tighten
mounts
right
rear
shock absorber
(1) align the shock absorber (Fig. 214)
If the bolts cannot be tightened in this position, then use a jack and add 90 kg of load to the rear axle.
(2) Tighten the bolts
Tightening torque: 82 Nm
23. Bleed air from the brake system
24. Install the rear wheels
Tightening torque: 103 Nm.
Attention: at the end of the work, check the wheel alignment
Attention: At the end of the work, check the functioning of the ABS system (for vehicles with ABS system)
Rice. 212
Rice. 213
Rice. 214

103
Section 4 Rear shock absorber
Component overview
Rice. 215
Replacing the rear shock absorber
Remove the rear seat cushion
1. Remove the rear seat back
2. Remove the left and right rear seat back hinges (2 pcs.)
3. Remove the rear seat belt assembly
Pad
Left rear shock absorber
Nm: Tightening torque
Pad
Shock absorber boot
Damper
Upper shock absorber support

104
4. Remove the rear decorative panel
5. Remove the additional brake light
6. Remove the rear wheel
7. Remove the left rear shock absorber
(1) Jack up the rear beam (Fig. 216)
(2) Unscrew the two nuts, holding the shock absorber rod from turning (Fig. 217)
(3) Remove the gasket and upper shock absorber support
(4) Having unscrewed the lower nut, remove the anther with the bump stop of the left rear shock absorber. (Fig.
218)
8. Check Left Rear Shock
Check for tightness, insufficient resistance and extraneous sounds during compression and exit of the rod. If there are discrepancies, replace (Fig. 219).
9. Install the left rear shock
(1) Install the upper shock mount
(2) Install the shock absorber, upper suspension bracket and gasket on the car
(3) After clamping the push rod, install the lower nut and allow the push rod to rise 15-18 mm above the nut
(Fig. 220)
(4) Fasten the top nut according to the position of the bottom nut
Tightening torque: 25 Nm.
(5) With the raised position, install the rear shock absorber onto the rear axle frame with the spacer and nut.
Tightening torque: 49 Nm.
10. Install the rear wheel
Tightening torque: 103 Nm.
11. Check rear wheel alignment
Rice. 216)
Rice. 217
Rice. 218
Rice. 219
Rice. 220

Measuring point:

A. Height from ground to center of front wheel

B. Height from ground to center of lower arm bolt

C. Height from ground to rear beam bolt center

D. Height from ground to center of rear wheel

Note: Adjust vehicle height to standard values before checking front wheel alignment.

If the vehicle height does not meet the standards, adjust it.

3- Toe check Toe:

Convergence a + in o ° ± 12 "

If the toe-in is out of specification, adjust the left and right steering levers.

4. Toe adjustment (Fig. 208)

(a) Remove the boot retainer.

(b) Loosen the nuts on the end of the transverse arm.

Advice: adjust toe-in to medium.

(d) Make sure that the left and right uprights are the same length.

(e) Tighten the nuts on the end of the transverse arm.

Tightening torque: 74 ± 5 Nm

(f) Install the boot retainer.

Advice: check the integrity of the boot.

5. Checking the angle of rotation

(a) Turn the steering wheel all the way down and measure the steering angle (Fig. 210).

Angle of rotation:

(regular road)

(bad road)

If the left and right inside corner is out of specification, check the length of the left and right uprights.

6. Checking the camber, pitch and tilt of the steering shaft (Fig. 211).

(a) Install the camber-tilt-kingpin sensor or raise the wheel alignment tester.

(b) Check the camber, caster and steering shaft tilt.

Camber, pitch and steering angle: (regular road)

(bad road)

If the pitch and steering angle are out of specification, adjust the pitch and then check for damage or wear to the lower arm parts.

7. Camber adjustment

Note: after adjusting the camber, check the toe (Fig.212,213)

(a) Remove the front wheels.

(b) Remove the 2 nuts under the shock absorber.

If nuts and bolts are reused, apply oil to the nut threads.

(d) Temporarily install 2 nuts figure 112.

(e) Push or pull the lower end of the shock absorber in the direction of the desired camber adjustment (Fig. 213).

(f) Tighten the nut.

Tightening torque: 153 ± 10 Nm (e) Install the front wheels.

Tightening torque: 103 ± 10 Nm (h) Check the camber.

94 95 ..

Geely MK / Cross. Checking and adjusting wheel alignment

Checking and adjusting the wheel alignment is necessary to ensure good stability and control of the vehicle, as well as uniform tire wear during its operation. Checking and adjusting the angles of the wheels is carried out on special stands according to the instructions for their operation.

The discrepancy between the actual values measured on the car and the control values specified in the specifications is due to wear and deformation of the suspension parts, deformation of the body.

Warning

Replacing or repairing suspension parts may entail a change in wheel alignment, so checking the wheel alignment after carrying out these works is mandatory.

Front wheel alignment angles:

caster angle

lateral inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheel: see vehicle specifications

camber angle : see vehicle specifications

convergence : see vehicle specifications

Rear wheel alignment:

camber angle : see vehicle specifications

convergence : see vehicle specifications

Check wheel alignment on a vehicle with 70 kg of ballast in each front seat, half-full fuel tank, normal tire pressures, and no excessive play in the suspension units.

After placing the car on the stand, just before checking the corners, "squeeze" the car's suspension, applying two or three times a force directed from top to bottom, first to the rear bumper, and then to the front. The wheels of the vehicle must be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

When checking the alignment of the front wheels, first determine the pitch and roll angles of the wheels, then the camber angle, and lastly the toe-in.

Caster angle of the front wheel steering axis formed by a vertical in the side view and a line passing through the middle of the upper support of the telescopic strut and the center of the ball bearing sphere fixed on the lower arm.

The angle of the transverse inclination of the axis of rotation of the front wheel formed by a vertical in the front view and a line passing through the middle of the upper support of the telescopic strut and the center of the sphere of the ball joint fixed to the lower arm.

Front camber angle characterized by a deviation of the mean plane of rotation of the front wheel from the vertical.

Note

Adjustment of the angles of the longitudinal and transverse inclination of the axis of rotation, as well as the angle of camber of the front wheels is not provided for by the design of the car. If these angles deviate from the nominal values, replace damaged and deformed parts.

The convergence of the front wheels is the angle between the plane of rotation of the front wheel and the longitudinal axis of the car. The convergence of the front wheels is regulated by changing the length of the steering rods.

The angles of the rear wheels can be adjusted during operation.

The camber angle of the rear wheels is characterized by the deviation of the mean plane of rotation of the rear wheel from the vertical. The camber angle of the rear wheel is adjusted by turning the adjusting bolts securing the upper transverse arm to the body bracket and to the rear transverse beam.

The convergence of the rear wheels is the angle between the plane of rotation of the rear wheel and the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. The convergence of the rear wheels is adjusted by turning the adjusting bolt located on the inside of the control lever.

After suspension repair:

replacement of tie rod ends;

replacement of ball bearings;

pendulum lever replacement;

replacement of the steering gear or steering rack;

replacement suspension arms;

replacement of silent blocks;

replacement of springs (required: re-adjustment after 3-5 tons of kilometers);

replacement of struts or shock absorbers from oil to gas-oil or gas and vice versa, there is a change in the clearance of the car, which entails a change in the UUK (wheel alignment angles)

If the car is pulling to the side - to the right or to the left, and the steering wheel has changed its position when driving in a straight line.

After changing the ground clearance (clearance) of the car:

installation of spacers ("houses") or thickened rubber bands under the suspension springs;

installation of shorter or higher suspension springs (required: re-adjustment after 3-5 t. km of run)

The car does not hold the road well (“floats”) or throws it to the side when it hits the pits and, especially, the rut.

The car "stupid" in management. Reaction to steering movements is late. The steering wheel is tight.

When braking, the car pulls (pulls) to the side or tends to turn around on a slippery road (brake system diagnostics are required first)

When you get into a pit with disk deformation, suspension impact on the bumpers, steering wheel departure from its original position ("the steering wheel is gone - the convergence is gone").

Increased tire wear.

If the car has a different turning radius to the left and to the right and you want to align it (sometimes this is accompanied by the wheels touching the arches when the steering wheel is turned all the way)

Poor rudder return when exiting a turn (caster broken)

After breaking in a new car or if you have recently bought a used car.

After replacing winter tires with summer tires (in winter you get into the pits - the corners go away, the rubber does not “eat” - slippery, spring comes and the rubber begins to “eat up”).

After installing new tires, especially if the car is pulling to the side. * Do not forget that new tires need to be run in at least 300-500 km during the run-in. Do not make sudden acceleration, braking - do not strain the rubber so that it lasts longer. This is especially true for studded tires, as the studs must fall into place in their nests, otherwise the “floating” studs will become “flying away”.

You can name some technical points that indicate that it is time to drive your car to the workshop. If you visually notice uneven tire tread wear. If you feel pressure on the steering wheel when driving in a straight line, or if the car pulls to one side when the steering wheel is released. If the car loses directional stability when it hits bumps on the road. If you notice increased tire noise while driving. If you notice a sharp change in the position of the horizontal spokes of the steering wheel.

All these points indicate that it is necessary to adjust the wheel alignment. It is impossible to adjust on your own, in the garage. This requires special equipment.

What is collapse?

Wheel with negative camber. Camber - the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Camber is considered negative if the wheels are upside down, and positive if upside down.

The collapse changes with a change in the roll of the car, and in MacPherson struts - also with a change in load. In heavy Tatra trucks, the camber of the rear wheels on an unloaded vehicle is so large that the vehicle travels leaning only on the outer tires.

Zero camber ensures minimal tire wear. Negative camber improves cornering stability. Positive camber is used only in two places: 1) on cars with MacPherson strut suspension, and 2) on sports cars designed to drive around ovals, on internal wheels.

On double wishbone suspensions, camber can usually be changed. On vehicles with MacPherson suspension, reducing ground clearance by simply shortening the springs will change all four wheel alignments. To change the clearance, you need to change the entire suspension mount.

Initially measured using plumb lines and levels of various systems, currently either optical sensors with computer processing of results or gravitational tilt sensors are used.