Preservation of a car for the winter is a very controversial event, some consider it meaningless and refer to it as "remnants of the past", but in fact, little has changed over the decades and "no one has canceled" corrosion.
In this article, I will talk about the basic rules for proper conservation so that your car winters well and gets back into operation in the spring with minimal losses.
1. Iron garage - unacceptable!
A garage made of sheet metal or thin sheets of metal is not suitable for car storage for the winter, in the daytime it heats up, and in the dark it cools down a lot. As a result, due to temperature differences, paint and varnish coating (LCP), rubber parts may suffer, in addition, condensation may form and, as a result, corrosion. Ideal for storing a car is a solid garage made of wood, blocks or bricks with thick walls and heating, which is not afraid of drops and temperature fluctuations.
2. Never use a tarp
If you do not have a garage space, and the parking lot is very far away or there is none at all, do not use canvas covers or capes to protect the body. This material is very poorly suited for this, for all its density it still lets moisture in, while letting it out very poorly, as a result it accumulates a large amount of moisture that evaporates in the sun and creates a greenhouse effect. You know what happens to the metal in the greenhouse, I think there is no need to explain once again ... In addition, when removing or putting on the cover, you will somehow damage your paintwork.
3. Do not wash the car before conservation
A wet or freshly washed car without ventilation will dry for a very long time, meanwhile, corrosion centers will appear on the body in vulnerable places. If you didn’t have time, put the dirty car in the garage, it will be, although not entirely aesthetically pleasing, but the car will be dry and will not “upset” you with swollen paint in the spring. Alternatively, you can reschedule the car for the winter, waiting for a fine warm day.
4. Don't use pads
Some "experienced" motorists advise beginners to use the so-called pads when setting the car for long-term savings, which are installed under the car in order to unload the springs and suspension. The purpose of such an event is that in such a free state the suspension is better preserved. However, at the same time, there are already quite a few on the network who have had the sad experience of such storage, instead of being useful, everything turned into an expensive repair of the chassis. The fact is that when the body is raised, the shock absorber rod comes out of the body, if it is not very dry in the garage, then the rods begin to rust and corrode, as a result, in the spring you "get" to replace all or most of the shock absorbers.
5. Be sure to remove the battery
During the winter, from inactivity, the battery can be completely discharged, in addition, it itself, subject to the negative effects of cold, can quickly become unusable or lose its former power and performance. To avoid such a scenario, I recommend removing the battery from the car and storing it for a long time in a dark, dry place. If you do not want to rush around with the battery, then at least remove the high-voltage wires from the terminals. Do not forget to recharge the battery from time to time and check the density of the electrolyte using a hydrometer.
6. Do not leave water in the radiator!
If you use water or a very "weak" coolant that freezes at the slightest frost, be sure to drain it before storing the car for the winter. It is best instead frost-resistant. The washer reservoir should also have anti-freeze fluid, if you do not have one, then simply drain the water from the reservoir. It is better to plug the exhaust with something dense, for example, a piece of rag tightly folded into a cork. Do the same with the air duct, remove the air filter and plug the hole with a rag soaked in oil. Such a rag will not let in not only air, but also moisture, which is very important. The fuel tank must be filled with fuel, which is called "to the eyeballs", this will avoid corrosion and the appearance of water in the tank. Condensation will form in an empty tank, enough of it will accumulate in a few months to complicate your life and force you to dry the tank and flush the entire fuel system.
7. If you are lazy, then this item is for you!
Those who do not want to follow all the above precautions for preserving a car, I can give you some tips that will allow you to keep your car safe and sound with minimal "gestures". First of all, do not be lazy once a week to operating temperature. Recharge the battery from time to time and monitor its condition. Try to maintain the optimal temperature in the garage, especially at critically low temperatures. Once a month, after severe frosts, check the condition of your car, if you find something wrong, do not be lazy and follow all the above measures and perform car conservation or entrust this procedure to specialists.
During long-term storage, especially in open areas, cars are destroyed as a result of precipitation, dust and fluctuations in air temperature: metal parts corrode (rust), wood dry out or rot, lose elasticity, crack, the braid collapses and loses its insulating properties, varnishes and the colors fade and crack. As a result of corrosion, the surface of the parts deteriorates, and its spread into the depth of the material significantly reduces the strength of the part.
To protect against corrosion, parts are coated with varnishes, paints or lubricants. To prevent moisture from entering the units, mechanisms and devices of the car, their sealing is widely used.
Before coating with varnishes, paints or grease, the surface of the part is thoroughly cleaned from traces of corrosion, since paint or grease applied to an uncleaned surface does not. After removing traces of corrosion, the parts are wiped with a rag soaked in gasoline and wiped dry. It is best to paint parts with oil paints rubbed on natural drying oil, as they create a strong protective film.
The surfaces of parts that should not be painted are protected by films of oils and lubricants (preservative lubricants SHK-3, PVK or UPSh-2, gun grease, UN grease).
To protect tires and other rubber parts from aging and ozone cracking, it is recommended to coat them with AKS aluminum paint, and in its absence, with a mixture of 4c oil varnish with aluminum powder. Tires can be covered with covers made of fabric, moisture-proof paper or other materials.
To prevent the harmful effects of atmospheric and climatic conditions, cars are subject to conservation.
Car preservation called the maintenance of serviceable, fully equipped and specially prepared vehicles in a condition that ensures their safety and bringing to combat readiness in the shortest possible time.
Preservation of cars can be short-term and long-term (more than one year). Depending on this, the scope of work to prepare cars for conservation is different.
Putting the car into conservation and removing it from it is carried out by order of the head and is noted in the car's passport.
Cars are kept in conservation on stands with unloaded tires and. The springs are unloaded by spacers installed between the axle and the frame. Such cars are stored separately from cars that are in daily use.
Gasoline tanks of carburetor vehicles that are in short-term conservation are filled with the prescribed grade of gasoline of the latest arrival, and fuel tanks of diesel vehicles are filled with seasonal grades of fuel. During long-term conservation, the fuel tanks of diesel vehicles are filled with winter diesel fuel, and the gasoline tanks of carburetor vehicles are stored unfilled and specially treated (conservation oil NG-203 "B" or dehydrated is applied to the internal surfaces of the tanks).
The crankcases of aggregates and mechanisms of vehicles that are in short-term conservation are filled with single or seasonal lubricants, and those in long-term conservation are filled with winter grades.
Preservation and re-preservation of cars
Cars, the operation of which is not planned for a period of more than 3 months, must be put into conservation.
New cars are put into conservation only after they have been run in.
General conservation requirements
Preservation is carried out to protect the internal and external surfaces of the vehicle as a whole and its units, assemblies and mechanisms from corrosion by applying a protective film of a corrosion inhibitor on these surfaces.
Anti-corrosion treatment and packaging ensure 12-month storage of cars in conditions that exclude the ingress of precipitation and pollution on the preserved surfaces.
The conservation conditions must meet the following basic requirements:
- relative air humidity should not exceed 70%, and the air temperature should not be lower than +15 °С without sharp fluctuations during the day;
– near the conservation object there should be no materials that can cause corrosion (acids, alkalis, chemicals and other aggressive materials);
- the time interval between the preparation of the surface for conservation and conservation should not exceed two hours;
- heating equipment must ensure the maintenance of the specified temperature of the mixture intended for conservation;
- dishes with lids should be used to store preservation agents.
The room in which conservation is carried out must be dry, well ventilated and heated, equipped with thermometers and psychrometers to control the temperature and humidity of the room; workplaces should be illuminated with diffused or reflected light (opaque lamps or fluorescent lamps). All components and assemblies of the vehicle must have a temperature equal to or higher than the temperature of the room in which conservation is carried out. Sharp temperature fluctuations during preservation are not allowed, as this can lead to moisture condensation on the preserved surface.
Rice. 74. Scheme of lubrication points for the fifth wheel coupling of the KrAZ-258 vehicle.
All components and assemblies of the vehicle subject to conservation must be clean, without corrosive damage to metal, and also without damage to paintwork, metal and other permanent coatings.
During the conservation period, it is not allowed to carry out such work in which the preserved surface may become contaminated with metal, paintwork or other dust. The entire process of conservation of the car must be carried out efficiently and accurately, without damaging the paintwork of the cladding. Oil stains, smudges and splashes of conservation grease are removed with a clean rag.
All metal surfaces that do not have anti-corrosion coatings (with the exception of painted ones) are subject to preservation.
To preserve the engine, clutch, gearbox and other components and assemblies of the car, use the following materials:
diesel oil DP-11 GOST 5304-54;
protective additive-inhibitor AKOR-1 GOST 15171-70;
protective lubricant "Neftegaz 204" MRTU 12N No. 69-63; diesel fuel GOST 4749-49;
two-layer waterproof packaging paper GOST 8828-61;
polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick GOST 10354-63;
adhesive plaster MRTU 42 No. 487-62;
PVC tape TU MHP 2898-57;
silica gel GOST 3956-54;
lubricant CIATIM-201 GOST 6267-59;
lubricant CIATIM-203 GOST 8773-73;
gun grease GOST 3005-51;
ceresin 30 GOST 2488-47;
grease AMS-3 GOST 2712-52;
zaponlak GOST 5235-59;
enamel MS-17 VTU UHP 105-59;
glycerin distilled GOST 6824-54;
soda ash GOST 5100-73;
chrompic potassium GOST 2652-71.
All materials used for preparatory operations and conservation should first be subjected to laboratory analysis for compliance with their GOST or Specifications and used only if there is a passport and verification data.
The presence of acids and moisture in conservation materials is not allowed. If there is moisture in the oil, it should be removed by heating the oil with a closed flame (until the foam disappears completely); moisture is removed from the fuel by sludge.
Wooden corks used in conservation must be made of dry wood and impregnated with working-preservation oil at a temperature of 105-120 ° C until foam formation stops.
Preservation of the power unit
Preservation of the engine consists in flushing the cooling system and conservation of the power supply and lubrication systems, internal surfaces, cylinders and air cleaner.
Flush the cooling system with a passivating solution, preserve the power system with a mixture of diesel fuel with AKOR-1 additive, preserve the lubrication system, internal surfaces, cylinders and air cleaner with working preservation oil (composition and preparation technology of preservation materials are given below).
The conservation procedure is as follows.
1. Drain water from the engine cooling system and heater system. To completely drain the water, it is necessary to install the car on a flat horizontal platform, remove the radiator cap and the cover of the heater filler pipe, open three drain cocks: on the engine water pump pipe, on the boiler and on the heater pump unit. After draining the water, close the faucets.
2. Unscrew the drain plug and drain the oil from the engine sump, then tighten the plug.
3. Unscrew the drain plugs (two) and drain the oil from the gearbox, then tighten the plugs.
After draining the oil, unscrew the oil pump intake cover, clean the oil intake grid and magnet from dirt and chips, then reinstall the cover. When installing the intake cover, make sure that it is in the correct position, paying attention not to block the oil line with the cover or its gasket.
4. Drain the oil from the high pressure fuel pump (TNVD) and the engine speed controller.
Oil is drained from the regulator through the hole in the lower part of the cover, and from the injection pump - by sucking it through the hole under the fuel gauge. After draining the oil from the regulator, tighten the plug.
5. Fill the cooling system with a passivating solution and close the radiator filler cap.
6. Pour the working-preservation oil, heated to 70-100 °C, into the following units:
into the high pressure fuel pump in the amount of 0.2 l, and into the speed controller - 0.15 l. Pour oil into the holes for the level gauges from a container intended for conservation of the Cylinders:
in the engine sump - 29 l;
in the gearbox housing - 8 liters.
Reinstall the oil level gauges, close the engine filler cap and tighten the gearbox filler cap.
7. Start the engine and let it run for 3-5 minutes at medium speed.
8. Remove the air cleaner, and put a special technological plug on the connecting pipe of the intake manifolds.
9. Drain the fuel from the coarse and fine filters.
10. Disconnect the drain tube from the fuel coarse filter.
11. Connect a special intake to the coarse fuel filter and immerse it in a container with a well-filtered mixture of fuel with AK.OR-1 additive, heated to 70-100 ° C.
12. Connect a special drain tube to the tip of the fuel fine filter, lowering its other end into the fuel drain bath.
13. Bleed the fuel system with a manual fuel priming pump until a clean, free of air bubbles preservative mixture comes out of the drain tube.
14. Scroll the crankshaft of the engine with a starter for 2-2.5 minutes. The duration of continuous operation of the starter should not exceed 20 seconds with breaks between starts of 1-2 minutes. In this case, the handle for manually controlling the fuel supply and engine stop must be in the fuel supply on position.
15. Disconnect the special intake from the coarse eye filter
18. Scroll the engine crankshaft with a starter for 20-30 seconds.
19. Disconnect the tube (leading fuel from the injectors to the left tank) from the tip located at the rear of the left head of the engine block.
Connect a hose from a special pump to the tip, to which connect the intake and immerse it in a container with a well-filtered fuel mixture with AKOR-1 additive, heated to 70-100 ° C. Remove the cylinder head covers and unscrew the steel fastening bolts by 1-2 turns tubes to injectors 4 and 5 cylinders.
Pump the drain line of the injectors until a preservation mixture (without air bubbles) comes out from under the bolts of the tubes. After that, tighten the tube mounting bolts, replace the cylinder head covers and connect the tube to the tip.
20. Drain the solution from the cooling system and dry it for 3 minutes by blowing with compressed air at a pressure of 1 kgf/cm2. Close the drain cocks, radiator cap and heater filler cap.
21. Drain the working and conservation oil from the engine sump, gearbox housing and speed controller; Extract the oil from the high pressure fuel pump through the level indicator hole.
Pour working oil into the engine, gearbox, high pressure fuel pump and speed controller in the amount specified in the engine manual.
22. Preservation of the air cleaner should be carried out in the following sequence of fuel and a special tube from the tip of the fine fuel filter.
16. Connect the drain tube to the fine fuel filter and the inlet tube to the coarse fuel filter, having previously preserved the internal cavities of these tubes; drain the preservative mixture from the coarse and fine fuel filters.
17. Remove the connecting pipe of the intake manifolds and using a special hose (through the inlet windows of the cylinder head) pour 60-70 ml of working conservation oil heated to 70-1009 C into each cylinder of the engine.
Preservation of cylinders with oil should be carried out from a special container designed for this purpose.
23. Remove the technological plug from the connecting pipe of the intake manifolds and. install the air cleaner in place, having previously placed waterproof paper under the cover (overhanging the body).
24. Scrolling of the engine crankshaft after conservation is not allowed.
(25. Remove the bottom cover of the clutch housing hatch, install the plug and replace the cover. I 26. Wipe the outer surfaces of the power unit with a clean cloth moistened with mineral spirits until all dirt and oil are completely removed, and then wipe dry.
27. Wrap the generator with waterproof paper; and the breathers of the high pressure fuel pump and gearbox with polyethylene film.
28. Paste with adhesive tape or PVC tape:
engine water pump drain hole;
air release valve on the right engine water pipe;
hole of the drainage tube of the high pressure fuel pump;
engine breather;
a slot on the flywheel housing (in the place of the pointer).
29. If grease gets on rubber or durite parts, wipe them thoroughly with a dry rag.
30. Open places in the creeks of the fan pulleys, water jet engine, compressor drive belt tensioner, . paint the engine crankshaft and power steering pump pulley j, as well as damaged painted surfaces in the same color as the engine.
Preservation of parts, components and assemblies of the car
1. Drain the water from the windshield washer and the cabin heater, release the compressed air from the cylinders through the taps. After the air is released from the cylinders, close the taps.
2. Pour 20 g of DP-11 diesel oil into each compressor cylinder (through the holes for valve plugs).
3. Paste with adhesive tape or PVC tape:
opening of the steam pipe of the radiator;
opening of the air filter of brake cylinders;
wiper outlets;
brake valve air outlet;
windshield washer jets; tire valve holes.
4. Close the opening of the air intake pipe of the pumping unit of the water heater with a rubber cap.
5. Wrap with NDA inhibited paper or cotton cloth impregnated with a work-preservation lubricant and tie with twine:
safety valve; with air pressure regulator;
horn openings and pneumatic signal head; silencer exhaust pipe opening (after putting a bag of silica gel weighing 200 g into the pipe); connecting head of pneumobrakes; filler necks of the water radiator and starting heater.
Note. Silica gel must be dried before use at t temperature 150-170 ° C for three hours. Hanging silica gel in bags! and laying them should be done immediately before sealing (not earlier than j earlier than an hour).
6. Coat with CIATIM-203 or CIATIM-201 lubricant:
axles and hinges of the engine control drive;
power steering rod, then wrap with inhibited paper and tie with twine.
7. Coat unpainted metal parts with a colorless zapon varnish:
handles and levers of toggle switches;
switch buttons;
wiper tap heads;
cabin fan bracket;
external and internal cabin door handles;
wiper handles;
wings and wing wings of wind windows;
emblem and brand name.
8. All articulated joints must be carefully syringed, and the crankcases of components and assemblies (transfer box, drive axles, intermediate support for cardan shafts, steering gear, rear suspension balancers and power steering reservoir) must be filled with fresh (commercial) grades of oils and lubricants according to the lubrication chart.
9. Preservation of fuel tanks is carried out by filling the entire tank capacity (with its subsequent draining through drain holes) with a conservation mixture of diesel fuel with AKOR-1 additive. Place 150 g silica gel bags in the retractable necks of the fuel tanks and close the lids, then seal the gap between the lids and the filler necks with adhesive tape or PVC tape.
10. Remove the wiper blades and rear-view mirrors from the vehicle and wrap with waterproof paper or cotton cloth.
11. Clean the set of driver's tools and accessories from dirt and corrosion, cover with a thin layer of CIATIM-201 lubricant and wrap it with waterproof paper or oiled cotton cloth.
12. Clean the working surface of the saddle plate (on a KrAZ-258 vehicle) from dirt and cover with CIATIM-201 grease, and wrap the saddle with waterproof paper or oiled cotton fabric.
13. Wrap the footboards of the car with strong waterproof paper and fix it with a tying wire having an anti-corrosion galvanized coating.
14. Place the vehicle on stands so that the springs are unloaded and the tires are at a distance of 80-100 mm from the ground.
Tires clean and wash with water. Bring the air pressure in the tires to normal. Tires should be covered with covers made of fabric, waterproof paper or other materials.
Car reactivation
1. Release the tires from the covers and remove the car from the stands.
2. Remove the waterproof paper and plastic film from the parts and assemblies of the power unit and release the power unit from plugs and plugs.
3. Remove the bottom cover of the clutch housing, remove the plug and replace the cover.
4. Remove adhesive tape, waterproof paper or oiled cloth from parts, components and assemblies of the car.
5. Remove the silica gel bags: from the muffler exhaust pipe, from the filler necks of the fuel tanks.
6. Remove preservative grease or its residues with a rag soaked in gasoline.
Note. The fifth wheel plate, axles and pivots (except those in the cab and under the hood) do not need to be lubricated.
7. Wipe tools and accessories with a rag soaked in gasoline.
8. Remove the waterproof paper from the footpegs of the vehicle.
9. Rinse the filter element of the air cleaner in gasoline and blow it with compressed air.
Note. It is not required to depreserve the gearbox, power supply and lubrication systems, cylinders and internal surfaces of the engine.
Carry out further preparation of the vehicle for operation in accordance with the operation manual.
Preparation of preservation materials
Universal working and conservation oil. It is prepared by adding a protective additive - inhibitor AKOR-1 to commercial grades of diesel oil. To prepare working-preservation oil manually, you must:
measure the required amount of diesel oil and heat it up to 70-100 °C;
measure the required amount of additive AKOR-1 at the rate of 20% of the prepared amount of working conservation oil;
add an additive warmed up to 60-70 °C to diesel oil with intensive stirring of the oil until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
The homogeneity of the mixture is determined by the absence of black or dark brown streaks on the oil stream flowing from the mixer, as well as the absence of sediments or clots on the bottom and walls of the container.
Note. Warm up the oil and additives in an oil dehydration oven or in a water bath.
To prepare the mixture using mechanization, an AZ-1E oil filling unit or mixing tanks of the BS-30, PPS-7500 design, etc. can be used (in this case, heating the additive is optional). When preparing more than 200 liters of the mixture, it is recommended to use the MZ-51 oil tanker or the VMZ-157V water oil tanker. The mixing operation in this case must be carried out using oil pumps and an oil heating system.
It is strictly forbidden to pour AKOR-1 additive directly into the engine sump, gearbox, high-pressure fuel pump and speed controller, because due to its high adhesion and viscosity, the additive will remain on the walls of the filler neck or crankcase and will not mix with oil.
Conservation mixture of fuel with AKOR-1 additive.
To prepare the mixture you need:
- measure the required amount of diesel fuel and AKOR-1 additive (based on 30% of the prepared amount of the mixture);
- add an additive heated to 60-70 °С to diesel fuel with intensive stirring of the fuel until a homogeneous mixture is obtained (heat the mixture to 70-100 °С).
Passivating solution (composition of the solution in grams per liter of water: glycerin - 30 g, soda ash - 5 g and potassium chromium peak - 0.5 g).
To prepare the solution you need:
- Dissolve a weighed amount of pre-ground dry components (soda ash and potassium chromium peak) in a small volume of water heated to a temperature of 40-50 ° C, using a separate container for this purpose;
- after complete dissolution of the indicated components, pour the solution from the container into the bath, add a weighed amount of glycerin into it, add water to the desired volume and mix.
The solution should be poured into the radiator gradually, through a funnel with the maximum possible cross section of the tube. In winter, warm the solution to a temperature of 50 °C before use.
When reusing the solution, it should be filtered from the sludge.
TO Category: - KrAZ vehicles
Preservation of fire trucks is carried out to prevent corrosion of the mechanisms and systems of vehicles that will not be used for a long time.
Conservation is understood as the maintenance of technically sound, fully equipped, refueled and specially prepared machines and equipment in a condition that ensures their long-term preservation and bringing to combat readiness in the shortest possible time.
All supernumerary PA or PA are put on conservation, the use of which is not expected for a period of more than three months, and in special climatic conditions - more than one month.
Conservation can be short-term (up to one year) and long-term (more than one year).
Setting the PA for conservation is carried out by decision
Head of the Department of MTO. It also determines the type of conservation, the list of machines subject to conservation, and financially responsible persons
for the performance of work.
The work on conservation is organized by the deputy head of the detachment (unit). He also draws up a work plan, which determines:
- training of personnel who will perform the work;
– distribution of equipment and premises for putting machines into storage;
– provision of subdivisions with operational materials;
- the procedure for the preparation of documentation.
An entry is made in the form about the setting and removal of the PA from conservation.
Statement and removal from conservation of other equipment is carried out by decision of the head of the State Fire Service.
PA conservation. Only cars with a cruising range of at least 12,000 km before medium and overhaul are put on conservation.
New cars put on conservation after running.
Preparing machines for conservation includes regular maintenance and special work to protect them from corrosion. Before starting special work, fire hoses, hose delays, rescue ropes, a tool for cutting electrical wires, and portable electric lights are removed from the machines and stored separately. The rest of the fire-technical equipment, after bringing it into good condition, if necessary, is lubricated and stored on machines.
Additional work to protect mechanisms from corrosion is regulated by the Technical Service Manual. They can be divided into two groups. first group constitute the work performed
before placing the cars in the parking lot for storage. second group
make up the work after the installation of machines in parking lots for storage.
The order of work of the first group:
- wash, clean and dry all tanks, and if necessary, restore the destroyed layers of paint;
- the wheels are removed, the tires are dismantled, the parts are cleaned of corrosion, the tires are painted, the chambers are talc, then the tires are mounted on disks, filled with air and put in place;
- remove water from the working cavity of the pump and pour a liter of engine oil into this cavity; turning the pump shaft 5–10 revolutions, drain the oil; the foam mixer is removed, disassembled, after cleaning, lubricated with engine oil and installed in place;
- treat with grease all the hinges of the drives,
tools, leaf springs (graphite grease).
At the end of all work, close all valves and valves,
and a plug is placed on the suction pipe. After completing these works, the car is installed in the parking lot. There are special rooms for car storage. In them, cars can be installed in no more than two rows with their front part to the gate with an interval of at least 1 m.
The works of the second group include conservation of the engine, draining water and fuel from the engine. The most difficult is the preservation of the engine.
Warming up the engine before storage should be carried out
at operating speed at coolant temperature
70–80 o C. In this case, the smallest amount of SO 2 and SO 3 is formed in the exhaust gases.
The engine should be stopped by closing the gas tank cock. Having unscrewed the candles (or nozzles for diesel engines), turn the crankshaft (2-3 times) with the starter for 5 s. After that, 30–50 g of dehydrated (pre-heated to 110 ° C) oil at 80 ° C is poured into each cylinder, then the engine crankshaft is turned by the crank for 10–15 revolutions. Spark plugs are screwed onto
place and all operating materials are drained from the engine. Batteries are removed from vehicles, prepared for storage and handed over
to the warehouse. The necks of all mechanisms and systems are sealed and closed with oiled paper.
The control levers must be placed in the neutral position and the brakes released.
Each car is mounted on metal or wooden stands. At the same time, the wheels should be raised from the ground by 8-10 cm,
and tire pressure is reduced by 50%.
After checking by the commission of the quality of the preservation of the cabin door
and bodies, as well as the engine hood are sealed.
The ignition keys must be in place.
When designing and manufacturing machines, great attention is paid to protecting their mechanisms and systems from corrosion. To do this, choose metals with the necessary properties, protect products with paints, varnishes, indicate the modes of operation and maintenance of mechanisms and systems.
The technical documentation for products (fire pumps, engines, machines) provides instructions on the features of conservation of products
and organization of their storage.
Maintenance of cars in conservation is carried out according to inspection plans. During maintenance, a complex of works is performed. First of all, the presence of corrosion is checked. If it is found, it is removed, followed by coating the areas with grease. The operation of the control drives is checked. Upon completion of all work, the engine hood, cab and body doors are sealed.
Every year, 20% of cars are removed from conservation. They are tested for 20–25 km, and special units for 1 hour. If
any faults are found, other faults can be tested
cars.
After the tests, the machines are serviced in the scope of the second maintenance and put into conservation. The work performed is recorded in the form.
Removal of cars from conservation. Before setting up cars
in the fire department on duty they are subject to the first maintenance. In addition, equipment removed from them is installed on the machines, all systems are washed, topped up and the oil in the units is changed. The tanks are filled with a foaming agent, the tank is filled with water. The operation of the pump is checked by taking water from an open reservoir.
Control questions
1. Features of the organization of maintenance and repair in the State Fire Service.
2. ETO organization. The content of the main works.
3. The essence of TO PA on fires. The content of the works.
4. Organization of maintenance after a fire. Purpose and content of works.
5. Planning and content of the main works TO-1.
6. Planning for TO-2. Organization of setting up for service and receiving PA after service.
7. Classification of repairs PA, Standards, organization.
8. Organization of commissioning operations in the State Fire Service.
9. Causes of corrosion of metal products PA.
10. Organization of storage and conservation of fire engines.
When carrying out all types of maintenance of each type and model of a fire truck, the instructions of the manufacturers of this equipment should be followed.
Checking the fluid level in the steering reservoir, hydraulic brakes and clutch release mechanism, in the engine cooling system; fuel level in the fuel tank; water level in the windshield and headlight washer reservoirs
(top up if necessary) are carried out once every 10 days with an entry in the Tire, Battery and Wheel Maintenance Log.
Lubrication of components, assemblies and mechanisms should be carried out in accordance with the lubrication chart for all types of fire trucks.
Lubrication of components, assemblies and mechanisms should be carried out in accordance with the lubrication chart for all types of fire engines.
Painting of damaged surfaces of a fire truck and fire fighting equipment is carried out if necessary for all types of vehicles.
Talc - mineral Mg 3 Si 4 O 10, sp. weight 2.7–2.8, hardness 1 (on the Mohs scale,
on this scale, the hardness of diamond is 10).
