What's wrong with an engine overhaul? How to overhaul an engine How to overhaul an engine yourself.

30.09.2019

Brake system

car engine- one of the main details, occupying most of the space under the hood. The ability of the machine to perform its main task is completely dependent on its work - to drive, transport people and goods.

The condition of the motor is directly related to the operating conditions, care and mileage. Every motorist knows that over time, the parts inside the internal combustion engine wear out and need to be replaced. In this case, it is necessary to overhaul the worn engine in the garage with your own hands.

What is overhaul and why is it needed

Overhaul of the VAZ engine- rather laborious work, requiring knowledge of the device and the principle of operation of the unit.

This process will take a lot of time. You will have to remove the engine from the car and carry out its complete disassembly. All removed parts are checked for suitability for further operation, if necessary, replaced with new ones. Particular attention is paid to the crankshaft: it is restored and brought to perfect condition. The existing systems are also checked: cooling, lubrication, fuel supply, the crank mechanism is being repaired.

During repair work, parts and components of the internal combustion engine are brought to perfect condition. After assembling the unit, its condition and performance should be identical to the new engine, just released from the assembly line. Capital is necessary if the motor has completely or partially exhausted its resource, there are corresponding signs indicating this. You can't ignore them. With further use of the car, the engine may completely fail and it will not be possible to restore it. There is only one option left - the purchase of a new part. Naturally, the purchase of spare parts is more expensive than their repair.

The life of the engine before overhaul can be extended if you follow simple rules when operating the machine.

Monitor the oil level and change it regularly.
Monitor the coolant level to prevent the machine from overheating.
Fill with high-quality fuel recommended by the manufacturer.
It is reasonable to operate the machine without overloading.
Limit the idle time of the vehicle to a minimum.
Refuse extreme driving, requiring increased speed. Do not allow the tachometer needle to go into the red zone.

When is an engine overhaul necessary?

The wear of the car engine occurs gradually.

There are a number of signs that indicate a malfunction of the internal combustion engine.

Harbingers of "disease" may appear in following sequence:

Increased fuel and oil consumption. When the parts wear out, gaps appear between them, which are filled with fuel during operation. An increase in oil consumption is due to clogging of the piston rings or loss of elasticity of the valve stem seals.
Vehicle power is reduced.
Noticeable dark blue smoke from the exhaust. This indicates that oil has entered the fuel mixture.
The oil pressure light starts blinking or stays on.
The engine makes an unusual noise during operation. It is possible that the bearings of the crank mechanism were worn out.
When measuring compression, the instruments show a significant deviation from the norm (decrease). Low compression indicates damaged gaskets, worn piston rings.
When unscrewing the candles, carbon deposits, oil, and dirt are always found on them.
Frequent overheating for no apparent reason.

Stages of repair of internal combustion engines

Engine overhaul implies the execution following steps:

Dismantling the motor.
Complete disassembly and removal of accumulated dirt by washing and cleaning.
Identification of defective parts of the block to be replaced: examination of the engine block for cracks, measurement of possible gaps formed, assessment of the crankshaft condition, identification of worn parts.
Overhaul of the cylinder head.
Restoration of the cylinder block.
Assembly of the unit and installation on the car.

Disassembly and dismantling of the engine

The process of removing the unit from the car may be different depending on the model of the car. Dismantling a carburetor engine is much easier than an injection engine. It has less electronics that you have to remove first. Also, the disassembly process will be different for front- and rear-wheel drive brands.

The preparatory stage prior to dismantling will be the removal of interfering mechanisms and the unscrewing of the retaining bolts. The removal of a heavy unit from the car body occurs with the help of a special lift or winch. If there is no such device, then all possible engine parts and spare parts are removed to reduce weight, and it is pulled out manually. This will require the help of several people.

It is worth knowing that the VAZ engine is disassembled in about 3 hours, it takes more time to disassemble a foreign-made engine: about 10 hours.

Washing engine parts

Flushing is an important step that many people skip.

It is not right. Every detail has a certain meaning. If the spare parts are not washed and the plaque is not removed, then the degree of wear can be incorrectly determined, which can cause a quick failure of the entire motor. Also, with special care, you need to flush the block and cylinder head to examine for possible cracks.

Diagnostics of damages and defects

Identification of defects occurs visually and using measuring instruments. All parts are checked for wear, scratches, cracks and chips. Particular attention should be paid to the following details.

The cylinder block and head are checked for integrity, special attention is paid to cracks and chips.
The crankshaft is inspected and measured to see if wear has occurred, and is also checked for alignment and bends.
Details of the connecting rod-crank mechanism: the general condition and the presence of backlash are determined.
Gas distribution mechanism.

Cylinder head repair

Repair of this spare part is not too complicated, but many car owners turn to the service for help. If you decide to do the repair yourself, then you will need to replace or repair the following parts.

distribution shafts.
valve.
Guide bushings.
Valve stem seals.

If cracks are found on the head of the block, then its replacement or grinding is necessary. It is possible that there will be a specialist who can weld the damage with argon.

Cylinder Block Repair

After cleaning and washing the block, it is necessary to restore it, bringing it to a quality close to the factory one. It is necessary to polish the seat of the head to a mirror finish, eliminating the existing shells and chips. For this, a surface grinder or milling machine is used. Depending on the degree of damage, the thickness of the cut can vary from 0.05 mm to 1 mm. In the presence of too deep sinks, grinding can consist of several stages.

Repair and restoration of the crankshaft

The crankshaft of the car can be repaired and bored a certain number of times, depending on the model. For example, a crankshaft on a VAZ is subject to repair 4 times and is bored to fit different sizes of liners with their subsequent increase. Having dismantled the spare part, first thing to check- Can it be restored? If yes, then you can buy larger inserts and start working.

The second thing to pay attention to- These are the crankshafts. If, during inspection, wavy grooves and risks are found on them, then it is required to get rid of them. This is done by grinding on a special machine. Remember the main thing! Replacement of liners without grinding is unacceptable. Repairing a car engine with your own hands will be wasted, the result will be zero.

Assembly and installation of internal combustion engines

Having prepared the head, cylinder block and crankshaft, we proceed to assemble the motor. For engine capital, you may need to purchase at a car dealer the following parts:

Valves, guide bushings and saddles to them;
Connecting rod and main liners;
Connecting rod pins and bushings to them;
Piston rings;
Repair kit for pump;
Oil filter;
Gasket set.

The engine is assembled in the following order:

Installation of liners and shrinkage of the crankshaft.
Installation of pistons and connecting rods.
Fixing the crankshaft with yokes.
Gasket installation.
Installing the engine cover.
Mounting pump and oil pump.
Installing the crankshaft pulley.
Head installation.
Pan and crankcase attachment.

When installing the liners and the piston group, we lubricate the parts and cylinder walls with a special grease. Its further performance and resource depend on the quality assembly of the internal combustion engine. It is desirable that it be carried out by a person who knows the principles of operation and the design of the motor.

We install the unit in its original place also using a lifting device. After successful installation, it is fastened, then the removed equipment and electrics are put in the reverse order. Before starting the engine, it is additionally recommended to center the clutch and pressure test the engine.

Engine break-in

Having capitalized the engine, it is imperative to break it in correctly.

Otherwise, the motor will quickly fail, without having worked out even half of the resource. During the break-in period, grinding of parts occurs, and excessive load will harm them. According to existing standards, a car needs to be run in about 2-3 thousand km. In this case, the speed of movement should not exceed 60 km / h.

Car service after overhaul

After overhauling the engine with your own hands, the car must be operated carefully. During the break-in, the basic rules must be observed, the ride must be calm. During this period, frequent oil changes are required: every 500 km. When the mileage reaches 2000 km, the oil is changed unscheduled for the last time. Then it needs to be changed as in any car after 10-15 thousand.

After overhauling the engine with your own hands, with proper operation, the car will delight the owner for many years. The main thing is to change consumables in time and use high-quality proven products.

Think engine overhaul is a headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they take for work, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start working. Because for that kind of money you can repair three engines. So, we will save money and master the overhaul ourselves.

When does an engine need a major overhaul?

You drove, you drove - suddenly the engine of your favorite iron horse rattled. So do not rush to immediately grab onto the "capital". We need to check everything first.

First, let's immediately determine that this is not a bulkhead of the engine, when it was disassembled, cleaned, gaskets changed and assembled. There are more serious reasons here. So let's take a look at the prerequisites:

How old is the car? How far has she run? Foreign or domestic? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example, a Zhiguli or Moskvich, then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps the resource of your car has been exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
Let's see what's up with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, despite the fact that the car bursts oil godlessly - another reason for repairs.
We check the compression, because this is the main parameter that affects the choice - whether or not a major overhaul is needed. We take a compression meter from friends, we take measurements. For example, in our case, out of four indicators, one has five instead of eight, which means that it’s definitely time for a major overhaul.

Where to begin?

Of course, with information. We get a manual in which it is reported in detail and with diagrams how to repair your brand of car. We find a catalog on the Internet that contains spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in an online store.

Cooking tools:

keys - ratchet, torque;
mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
rassuharivatel to valves;
micrometer;
heads;
valve adjuster;
two-arm or three-arm puller;
stethoscope;
tweezers;
support stand;
hydraulic chain hoist;
puller kit.

Getting to the engine

We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Detach the hood so that it does not interfere.

Carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold at any auto shop - and drain them using hoses into the prepared container.

Given the age of the machine, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, pipes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in our hands, nothing is damaged or broken. And then some craftsmen then still repair wiring, cooling system.

We remove without haste everything that can interfere with getting the engine: air filter, carburetor, gasoline pump - do not forget to wind the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. Now the engine can be removed.

Stages of engine overhaul on the example of the Zhiguli brand

Step #1

Before you get to the innards of the engine and start doing a major overhaul, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - one cannot manage here.

Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two wooden blocks on top. Then lay the engine on them.

Step #2

Now fix the talc, i.e. the lift, on the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod, placed above the hood.

Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you can’t lift it with your hands, and if it falls down, you can’t do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the fastening of the talc, and only after that start lifting.

Step #3

Gently, without too much fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.

When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that later you don’t have extra ones, like some homemade ones.

Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the boot of the crankcase. Move on to the oil filter. Having unscrewed the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.

Step #4

Now remove the front and rear covers of the unit along with the stuffing box. Take care of the piglet's star, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stop and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, crankshaft sprocket.

Move on to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones at a specialized store or car market. Just first decide if you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners under them. Get the crankshaft with persistent half rings.

Step #5

Remove the pig, the oil pump and its drive gear. Turn over, putting it sideways, remove the pistons with connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to go to the auto repair shop.

Take new pistons, let them bore the block under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press in the piston pins. Measure the crankshaft journals with a micrometer, look in the manual for what size liners should have, buy them. If you choose the liners correctly, you can rotate the crankshaft by hand This will be the fit test.

Step #6

Start assembly by removing carbon deposits. Remove all metal shavings, wash the beds, lubricate them and liners with engine oil, install in place, guided by the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place the thrust half rings so that the recesses are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.

Now you can return the crankshaft with liners and covers to its place, checking the markings according to the manual, the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.

Step #7

Ask the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat them up to over 200. Check the process.

Now carefully smear the piston pins through the holes, throw in the piston rings without haste, make sure that the slots and holes are preserved, tighten the mandrel with a key. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.

Step #8

Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Turn the block back to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.

Gently begin to pull the connecting rods to the necks. Then scroll the crankshaft to make sure that everything is set correctly and the liners do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.

Step #9

Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-lubricate the joints with sealant. Proceed to install the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that the flywheel must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft with a groove - this is important.

Now start installing the sprocket, pig, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.

Step #10

You can finally install the engine and bolt it on. Tighten carefully so as not to strip the threads and do not burst parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, attach wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.

Cold running

Once the overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold break-in before installing it on the machine. This is done so that the new parts get used to each other, and is carried out in a passive, bench mode. or in hard towing, when due to the movement of the wheels the crankshaft begins to spin and a cold break-in occurs.

So, in the garage, connect the air filter hoses, cooling systems, oil supply, exhaust to the engine. Install plugs. Connect the unit to the electric motor.

Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low speeds, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high speeds, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.

Tips for operating the engine after a major overhaul

Before the car runs two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, do not overload the engine.
After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).

Now you are convinced that a do-it-yourself engine overhaul is possible and profitable, because it costs three times less. In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending the service life, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.

The following video will tell you about what spare parts are needed for the overhaul of the VAZ 2103 engine:

Take it, tell your friends!

General concepts of engine repair

Repair of gasoline engines is a rather complicated process of restoring worn components and parts of a power unit to its original state or close to it. This process includes many operations and depends on the type and class of the motor.

During the operation of the vehicle, many motorists do not pay attention to maintenance, which plays a very important role in the condition of the power unit, as well as its resource. Subsequently, it may happen that the repair of the gasoline engine is not possible. Therefore, the restoration of the power unit is affected not only by physical wear, but also by how it is looked after.

In what cases is the repair of the power unit carried out

Consider in what cases it will be necessary to repair the engine:

Wear and wear of parts over 80% of the resource.
The appearance of mechanical damage to the main components of the power unit.
Failure due to incorrect setup or maintenance.
Other reasons that could cause malfunctions.

How to classify the repair of gasoline engines:

Stream repair. This is the repair of worn parts, which during operation have a lower resource than the main power unit.
Technical repair of engines. It is carried out during in-line maintenance for the planned replacement of worn elements.
Unscheduled repair of car engines. This is an unexpected breakdown of the power unit, which is caused by poor-quality maintenance, spare parts, or other reasons that led to restoration operations on the motor.
Scheduled repairs. It is also called a major overhaul. It is usually carried out according to the mileage of the car, when the resource of the power unit has been exhausted.

Where to begin

Many motorists are wondering where to start repairing gasoline engines? The answer is quite simple - it is necessary to determine the signs: is it necessary to repair the assembly at all, or is the problem something else? To do this, you will have to carry out a number of diagnostic procedures. They are divided into 2 types: electronic and mechanical.

Electronic diagnostics can show whether car repairs are needed in terms of electronics and whether there are any problems at all. To do this, the electronic engine control unit is checked, as well as the condition of all sensors and connections. If no problems are identified, then you should not go further, because you can create a problem that will have to be solved.

Mechanical diagnostics will require a lot of time, effort and knowledge. To carry out this operation, there is an instruction on the Internet, but in this article we will try to explain everything in much more detail and more clearly. If problems were found during the diagnostic operations, then gasoline engines will have to be disassembled and repaired.

By the way, for this there is an engine repair manual, which is produced by the manufacturer, both in paper and in electronic form. So, let's consider the process of repairing the machine, or rather its power unit in more detail.

Dismantling and disassembly

The first process is the dismantling of the power unit from the car and its disassembly. In each case, the engines are removed in different ways. This is influenced by the following indicators: drive, engine location, number of cylinders, body design features, gearbox type and others.

For example, it is much easier to dismantle a power unit from a Zhiguli or a domestically produced truck than from other cars. They have fewer electronic devices, so dismantling is quite easy and simple.

For example, YaMZ-236 and YaMZ-238 diesel engines are dismantled from a car in 10-12 hours, and their foreign counterparts - in more than 36 hours. The same situation is with the dismantling process, which can take from Zhiguli from 3 hours and foreign-made cars from 10 hours.

The disassembly process should be treated carefully, since it is at this moment that the first diagnostic operations are carried out. A motorist, if he repairs the engine with his own hands, must visually inspect the presence of damage, cracks and other defects on the power unit and its components.

Troubleshooting elements

Troubleshooting will be the next step, which will determine the signs of a malfunction, and also show what condition the mechanics are in. What is this procedure:

Measurement of the crankshaft for size, hardness, deflection and centering.
Diagnosis of the state of the plane and the body of the cylinder block.
The condition of the piston group.
Worn elements and cylinder head housing.
Other indicators.
The feasibility of repairing the motor.

Washing

The engine, the repair of which is inevitable, needs to be washed of the block and its components. This process is carried out using hot kerosene or special means under pressure. This allows you to wash all the metal chips, dirt and other unnecessary elements that have accumulated during operation.

Spare parts

When the diagnostics are carried out and all the parts that need to be replaced are determined, it is worth ordering the necessary spare parts, since preparation is required before installing them on the engine. Often, when repairing gasoline engines, the following spare parts are changed:

Main and connecting rod bearings.
Piston group.
Connecting rod fingers.
Connecting rod bushings.
Oil filter and pump.
Pump or its repair kit.
Inlet and outlet valves.
Oil scraper rings.
Gasket set.
Valve guides and valve seats.
Other details.

Block and crankshaft grinding

The next stage of repair and restoration work is the grinding of the crankshaft, as well as the planes of the block and head. With the help of surface grinding and milling machines, the plane of the HBU and the block is brought into a mirror surface. As a rule, it can be removed: 0.05mm, 0.1mm, 0.25mm, 0.5mm, 1mm or more of the thickness of the product.

As for grinding the crankshaft, there are types of repairs for this unit:

Type of repair	Thickness, mm	Efficiency compared to new
Repair No. 1	0,25	80-90%
Repair No. 2	0,50	70-75%
Repair No. 3	0,75	65-70%
Repair No. 4	1,00	50-55%
Repair No. 5	1,25	40-45%
Repair No. 6	1,50	Less than 30%
Repair No. 7	2,00	Not used since 1995

Block head repair

Repair of the block head is one of the most simple operations in the process of overhauling the engine. It is recommended to carry it out, of course, at a car service, but many motorists, after repair operations on the Zhiguli, repair the cylinder head of foreign cars on their own. So, what is included in the process of overhauling the cylinder head:

Replacing the camshaft (or several, if there are 2 or more on the car).
Replacing valves, both exhaust and intake.
Replacing guide bushings.
Change of seats and valve stem seals.
Argon welding, in the presence of cracks or leaks.
Other work related to the repair of the cylinder head of one type or another.

Auxiliary work

Auxiliary work should include crimping and centering the clutch. The first is a process in which the tightness of the head and cylinder block is determined. With the help of kerosene, the inside of the engine is filled, having previously closed all the holes. If no leaks are found, then the engine is completely sealed, but if there are cracks, then they must be welded.

The second process involves setting the centrifugal clutch force in relation to the crankshaft. As a rule, it is carried out at a special stand, which is not available at all car services. The clutch is attached to the crankshaft and their joint balancing is carried out. This will help reduce wear and friction.

Node Assembly

The assembly of the assembly is carried out using a stand that allows you to rotate the engine 360 degrees. So, consider the sequence of the operation:

Installation of liners and "laying" of the crankshaft.
Installation of connecting rods and piston group.
Installing the yokes in the correct position, as well as their final tightening.
Installation of Gaskets and covers covering the motor.
Oil pump and pump installation.
Installation of the crankshaft pulley.
Installing the cylinder head(s).
Pallet installation.
Assembly of small knots.
Installation of fuel equipment.
Other assembly work

This process is quite laborious and difficult, so it is recommended to entrust it to professionals.

Run-in and testing

The final stage of the overhaul of the engine is its running in and testing. The best way to break in the engine is the combined one, which we wrote about in one of the articles. For the most efficient operation of the power unit, it is necessary to run it in, both hot and cold.

In many foreign countries, in addition to the running-in stand, there is a test stand, which, using a large number of sensors and indicators, tests the engine and determines the resource after repair and restoration work. Unfortunately, there are no such stands in the CIS, since it is believed that their use is not economically feasible.

Conclusion

It is almost impossible to carry out a major overhaul of a modern engine with your own hands without the presence of special expensive stands. You can only do in-line repairs, such as replacing sensors, and then not on all vehicles. But to carry out a hand-made repair of a power unit - a VAZ or GAZ is quite realistic, which is what motorists who own such vehicles do to this day.

An overhaul of the engine is carried out in the following cases: destruction of the pistons due to a broken timing belt; natural wear of the piston group; loss of compression in the cylinders.

Before starting work, you can think about tuning (improving) the motor. Whatever the car, it is possible to increase the number of horsepower, and without significant costs. Consider the main stages of repair work, so that you have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat you will have to face.

Removing the engine from the car

You cannot do without this procedure, since the motor must be removed, otherwise it simply cannot be completely disassembled. At the preparation stage, disconnect the battery to de-energize the power supply system. All attachments must be removed - carburetor, air filter, generator, starter, exhaust manifold, etc. Before dismantling the engine, you can also unscrew the block head. It will be worked on separately. Drain the oil from the crankcase, after which you will need a winch and helpers.

Four bolts secure the gearbox to the engine block. The motor with a body on VAZ 2108-21099 cars is attached with one pillow. Hang the engine on a cable and unscrew all the bolts, pre-treating the connections with a penetrating lubricant to facilitate work. For convenience, you can remove the hinges at the very beginning and remove the hood to the side, so you will free up space. After the final extraction of the engine, proceed to disassemble it.

Now it’s worth talking about the requirements for each element of the motor.

Cylinder block

Either way, it needs to be repaired. First of all, clean the entire surface of oil, dirt and other deposits. Repair consists in boring the sleeves to the required size. This procedure cannot be carried out on your own, it is better to trust a specialist. The turner carrying out the boring must have the skills to work on the machine. Do not trust such a thing to an inexperienced person. Its reliability depends on how correctly the overhaul of the VAZ 2109 engine is done.

There are two boring options: under a mirror and a fine mesh. In the second case, honing is done - the entire inner surface of the sleeves is covered with thin lines. Some people claim that this gives a power boost. But in reality, the picture is the opposite - the wear of the piston rings increases, since the surface of the cylinder looks like a regular file. Fortunately, this continues for 10-20 thousand km, after which the sleeve takes on a mirror-like appearance. And not always the geometry is perfect. For this reason, boring is best done under a mirror.

Is it worth it to lighten the pistons

If you are on fire with the idea of \u200b\u200btuning in order to increase power, then the answer is unequivocal: it is necessary to lighten the pistons! But if it is in your interest only to make repairs, then it is enough to install new ones. In any case, the increase in horsepower will be noticeable, as the motor compression will increase. It is best to entrust lightening work to the same turner who is engaged in boring the cylinder block. As you can see, it will not be possible to do a major overhaul of the engine with your own hands; you will have to resort to the services of specialists.

The essence of the process is to get rid of the "extra" metal in the inner part. To do this, aluminum from the piston skirt is carefully ground. Pay attention to whether there are scrapers - recesses for valves in the upper part. If they are present, then purchase repair ones with the same attributes. Otherwise, you will need to sort out the motor every time the timing belt breaks. And do not forget that rings of the right size are needed for each piston - you can find out all the values \u200b\u200bin the car's manual.

Crankshaft and its relief

This is perhaps the most massive element of the entire motor. If you only need to overhaul the VAZ engine, then you can limit yourself to replacing the main and connecting rod bearings. But in the event that you are seeking an increase in power, you will need to do a lot of work. And without the services of a turner, again, it will not be possible to do. After all, only when using professional equipment can you get rid of the "extra" metal on the surface of the crankshaft.

But do not forget about one feature. The crankshaft has an axis of rotation, its center of gravity is located in such a way that no beats occur. In the case when you grind metal, the alignment is disturbed. And by installing such a crankshaft, you simply destroy both the bearings and the cylinder block housing. Therefore, after relief, it is necessary to do balancing in order to restore the shaft alignment. But the engine after a major overhaul will be much more powerful, which will surprise you unspeakably.

Flywheel and clutch block

For tuning, these nodes should also be finalized. As in the case of the crankshaft, it will be necessary to cut off a layer of metal from the inside of the flywheel. After this procedure, balancing is also necessary so that axial runout and, as a result, vibrations do not occur. The clutch will need to be reinforced. Give preference to samples that are used for newer and more powerful car models. Start with how much horsepower you want to end up with.

Oil pump and cooling system

The improvement of these nodes is essential when tuning. Lubrication of all units may be insufficient, as there is an increase in torque and power due to the lightening of the main elements. Carefully troubleshoot the oil pump gears so that the gaps are minimal. As for the cooling system, it would not be superfluous to install a more efficient pump and a radiator with a larger area. Without these procedures, a major overhaul of the 2109 engine, provided that there is no need to do tuning, can be dispensed with.

Block head repair

This unit is responsible for the quality of the sealing of the combustion chamber at the moment of ignition of the mixture. Therefore, you should achieve maximum contact between the surface of the valves and the seats in the cylinder head. To do this, it is necessary to carry out lapping. The work is not difficult, but tedious and long. You will need a drill with a reverse (even a manual one will do), a piece of rubber hose, two clamps, a metal rod, lapping pastes - finishing and rough. Please note that after the work there are no abrasives left on the surface of the cylinder head. Clean everything and blow with compressed air.

First, a rough lapping paste is applied to the seat. Use a drill to rotate the valve in different directions (it is highly desirable that there be an equal number of revolutions). After getting rid of large surface irregularities, you need to apply a finishing paste and grind to a shine. Maximum contact between valve and seat is now ensured. The main thing is to install them the way you rubbed them in, you can’t swap elements. In this case, it will not be possible to achieve maximum tightness.

Every car needs repair. The hardest part is the engine. Restore power yourself or give it to a service station? In the workshop, they will do it faster and better. But immediately ask the price: how much will it cost to overhaul the engine with your own hands. The amount would be enough for two or three repairs.

If you have a garage, and you have repaired something in the car more than once, you know its design - take it yourself. But for some work, you still have to turn to the masters. It's unavoidable.

When did it come time for the capital?

How long is your car in use? What is the mileage? Which roads are asphalt or potholes? Do you have to add oil more often than usual? Has your gas mileage gone up? Compression drops in at least one cylinder? ICE shaking on the supports? Are piston pins rattling? And there are so many more questions you have to answer for yourself.

Let's add: if your car has 150 thousand kilometers, the power drops, then this is a reason for a capital investment. Although the "classic" can withstand without overhaul and 200 - 250 thousand.

If your car is more than a dozen years old, it is domestic, for example, a Zhiguli or Moskvich, then its limit before the first overhaul is 150 thousand km.

Where to begin?

So what should be done first? First, deal with the list of spare parts, keys. You will need to replace the water pump, if it is still factory, the insides of the oil pump and oil filter, the metal timing chain and sprockets for it.

Purchase a high-quality piston group with a repair number, liners, seals, high-voltage wires, repair kits for a gasoline pump, distributor.

There are small details, but you won't go without them. For example, persistent half rings. They prevent axial movement of the crankshaft. When removing the crankshaft, make sure that they are worn out.

The toolkit is the most complete:

keys, probes for debugging valves;
crackers on valves, caps;
pullers for 2 and 3 paws;

If there is a hydraulic chain hoist, then half the work is done. It will be needed when removing the internal combustion engine and installing.

We clean the engine

Everything is removed from the motor: carburetor, starter, hoses, cables, batteries, motor mounting couplings. Drain the oil and antifreeze or water.

Do not rush to disassemble the internal combustion engine before removing it from the car. It's better—and safer—to do it on a table or wooden platform. Next, free up a clean place with a film, where you will store separately all the hardware and so on. Remove the clutch from the gearbox, this will make it easier to overhaul the engine with your own hands.

Parsing the insides

After removing the motor hoist, continue disassembling it. Down to the empty cylinder block. Remove covers, sprockets and timing chain. Release the crankshaft from the connecting rods, remove them along with the pistons; inspect the liners, worn necks - they will have to be bought. Most likely, the engine mount will need to be repaired, which suffers from bumps, “triples” and vibration.

Repair the engine radiator. Instead of a bolt, insert a drain tap into it. Rinse with water or special composition, blow from both sides. If one tube is leaking, seal it.

New life for internal combustion engines

If you do not need to grind the crankshaft, then start the reverse process. After assembling the internal combustion engine, install the valve marker, connect everything you need, connect the battery.

It is better to run in for grinding in “cold”, or drive on the cable of another car with the speed turned on, but without starting the internal combustion engine for several kilometers.

Running in place takes place at a speed (per min) of 600 - 1000 for a couple of minutes, for 1200 - 1400 - for five. Then drive at a reasonable speed, without ICE jerks. Change the oil after a thousand kilometers.

Attention to walk-behind tractors

Motoblocks perform a large amount of work, and they work at high speeds in plowing, cultivating neglected areas. And with a trolley loaded into it, up to two hundred kg of weight move off-road, mud and snow.

Therefore, do-it-yourself maintenance of motoblock engines has to be done almost annually. It is similar to the "Zhiguli" in functionality, but only on one cylinder. There is no water cooling in it, the oil also lubricates the crankshaft and piston.

It is possible to replace the fuel pump filter, in the latter, replace the repair kit, since the walk-behind tractor “swallows” much more dust than the “Lada” on asphalt.

Vulnerable in such operation is the chain transmission from the internal combustion engine to the chassis. The chain must be in stock and kept with the keys.

Lawn mowing

From the title it is clear that this mechanism is not intended for mowing grass for hay on a hectare area. But it is operated in difficult conditions and in cities.

Lawnmowers are available with gasoline engines and electric motors. The latest units are bought more often because of their silent operation.

Do-it-yourself lawn mower engine repair (on an electric drive) is simple: dust removal, lubrication of bearings, special attention to the gearbox for transmitting rotation to the knives. This mechanism has its own lubrication.

Washer needs to be inspected

It does not have such a complex transmission of rotation as a lawn mower. The electric motor can fail if the water tank leaks, it can be jammed by bearings that have developed grease or worn out graphite contacts. In a word, it's all about how to repair a washing machine engine.