05-05-2009 09:43
my masters lubricate the bolts in practice,
for 5 years, there have never been problems with self-unscrewing (pah pah pah)
here I read interesting thoughts about graphite grease, attempts at a discussion about self-tightening / unwinding of bolts and that this is complete nonsense ...
what will be the opinions?
05-05-2009 09:54
I lubricated the bolts on the wheels, there are no hints of self-loosening!
05-05-2009 09:54
IMHO, a correctly tightened bolt, even in working out, even in graphite, will never unscrew itself
05-05-2009 10:21
A version has appeared that the disk is warming up and a bolt lubricated with oil or working off may as a result “stick” to the disk, but several years of operation show that this did not happen ...
05-05-2009 10:35
My opinion is that the topic should be moved to a chat room, let the people there mock about sticking greased bolts.
05-05-2009 12:14
If the lubrication contributed to the self-loosening of the bolts, then inside the engine all threaded connections would be with growers and locknuts. And this is not observed. So smear boldly and normally tighten. It will be easier to open.
05-05-2009 16:42
In my opinion, a clean bolt without any lubrication is unscrewed quite normally; after unscrewing, it is important not to throw the bolts into the sand.
05-05-2009 17:03
An important enough topic to just wag your tongue. All of the above is based on conjecture, personal feelings, so-called experience, etc. If there are disagreements, we look at the normative document. This document is ELSA. But it says there (I can’t open the quote now, but I remember it as a keepsake), IT IS FORBIDDEN to lubricate the wheel bolts. good luck on the road
05-05-2009 17:04
A lubricated threaded connection has much less thread wear. As well as the seat cone of the bolt and disc. Yes, and they twist lubricated much nicer.
And in Elsa it is also written - pull the bolts with a torque wrench. But the lubricated bolt after our installations is easier to unscrew. There, after all, they simply take the ends of the balloon and pull so that the car rolls on the handbrake)))
05-05-2009 17:16
What's wrong with torque bolts? This is exactly what I do, in the installation I make sure that the moment is correct, or when I change the wheel myself, I tighten it with a torque wrench. It’s just that it reminds me a little of Russian roulette, it will unscrew, it won’t unscrew ... The way of thinking of our person is somewhat ... mmmm ... peculiar, “Ah, if you do this and that and that, well, to a heap more here to build something ... Will it give a ride? "And there, let's see ... There is a document, and we must adhere to it.
05-05-2009 17:32
There's nothing wrong with that, it's just that 99% of people don't do that. He doesn't even know what a dynamometer is.
I have always been touched by imported instructions for various techniques, such as not drying cats in microwave ovens, etc. Document
05-05-2009 19:25
You can put your cat in the microwave. This will only hurt the cat. And from a wheel bolt that gets out, it can be bad not only for an unlucky owner who has heard a lot of tales about "A lubricated threaded connection wears out much less thread. Like the landing cone of a bolt and disk. ", And a handful of people who accidentally found themselves nearby. People confuse two different things - the reliability of the connection, proven for decades, documented in Zlz, and not causing any doubts, and "To unscrew it easier later ..." Sour with soft. The ability to fly off the track at speed and to let the bolt go more easily. Think for yourself.
05-05-2009 19:53
Well, it's not about cats. It's a matter of operating conditions. In Germany, salt is not sprinkled on the roads. Lubrication of threaded connections, first of all, prevents the bolt and nut from oxidizing. This protects the thread, including from wear, that is, it increases the reliability of the connection. In any threaded connection, 2-3 threads work when tightening. The compression force of the turns in them is such that any lubricant is completely displaced from there. I always lubricate the threaded connections with dried Movil (poured into an open jar, turns into such a thick composition, such as soft plasticine). I apply a small amount of this grease to the bolt, including the wheel bolts. I have been doing this for 9 years now, not a single bolt that has not been unscrewed, has not even weakened. Everyone decides for himself whether to smear or not to smear. I'm sure that lubrication cannot provoke self-loosening of the bolt. That is, the benefits are obvious, but there is no harm.
05-05-2009 20:47
But somewhere in the manual it was said not to smear the thread, smear the seats ... Well, you need to pull the bolts with the prescribed torque, and if your thread is not dead, then you will not have problems with unscrewing either. And I’ll definitely look at Elsa at 11 o’clock.
05-05-2009 22:26
Tighten the lubricated bolt to the correct torque and the unlubricated one. The opening moment will be the same in both cases and the lubricant does not contribute to any self-loosening
05-05-2009 22:54
| QUOTE |
| Instructions for changing/mounting wheels ATTENTION! The tightness of the wheel bolts and wheels can only be guaranteed if the following checks/notes are carried out. The following checks/instructions must be carried out with the wheel (disc) removed! Wheel mounting 1) The spherical seat is the curved surface of the ball segment. The spherical seat can be seen on the wheel bolt and in the wheel (rim) on the wheel bolt hole. |
Autoprospect
| QUOTE |
| 11.6. Wheel replacement Zinc plated wheel bolts can only be used on stamped steel rims. Light alloy rims are attached only with chrome-plated wheel bolts, which have a tapered rotating washer. This washer, mounted under the head of the bolt, protects the disc surface when the bolts are tightened. Standard wheel bolts have dimensions - M14x1.5x27.5. Turnkey head size - 17 mm. The tightening torque of the wheel bolts is 120 Nm. PROCEDURE Light alloy rims are protected against corrosion with a transparent varnish. Be careful not to damage the lacquer finish. If the coating is damaged, cover the disc with a layer of varnish. |
05-05-2009 23:51
With the help of a cross-shaped wrench with a moment of 30 nm, I have never seen such moment wrenches. With a conventional screwdriver, all the bolts are screwed on at the minimum tightening torque, then with a cross-to-cross torque wrench. Clean the bolts with a brush and go through a thin layer of graphite. And don't dry cats in the microwave.
Psst, and how can an aluminum disk stick to the hub if there is a centering ring made of plastic.
06-05-2009 00:33
There is no centering ring on the original casting, it was originally DIA-57.1.
06-05-2009 05:59
17-05-2009 19:17
Graphite lubricated joints never stick.
The lubricant base burns out / evaporates, but the graphite itself remains.
Connections lubricated with graphite, even after a few years, are then unscrewed with a bang.
PS
Well, if you also tighten the wheel bolts with a torque wrench ....
Foolishly, you can break yuh.
17-05-2009 23:22
All my life I have been tightening the bolts, LUBRICING with graphite after the moment when the bolts were tightened to me at the tire fitting so that I had to unscrew the 2-meter pipe TOGETHER !!! And if the bolt turned off ... then drill out ... or even change the hub ...
I have always lubricated and will lubricate. I have never untwisted anything, I haven’t taken off the tracks, I haven’t knocked anyone down, I haven’t been left without wheels. bolts. It also saves nerves, reduces the vocabulary of Russian obscenities, and prevents Kuz'kin's mother from hiccuping
Threat Whenever I spin something in the suspension or where the climb is, I always lubricate everything with graphite. But when you climb the second time, it’s not a repair, but a pleasure. And judging by statements like "the wheel fell off on the go", then my whole car should already fall apart ...
18-05-2009 13:54
The topic amused In fact, if you lubricate the bolts, then the main problem is not that they supposedly can unscrew, but that tighten it’s almost impossible to get them right, even with a torque wrench you won’t get the necessary N / m. Floats. That is why VAG forbids lubricating wheel bolts and that is why the two of you then unscrewed them with a 2-meter pipe. Because of the lubricant.
18-05-2009 16:33
This is nonsense
18-05-2009 16:51
Your climate is different...
18-05-2009 17:09
I didn't want to comment on it, but oh well. To begin with, I would like to hear arguments about FLOATING What goes where?
Ruslan Kurt
18-05-2009 17:11
Have you tried to unscrew the boiled bolts on the truck?
IMHO it is better to lubricate, after 100 km - check the puff and then business!
18-05-2009 17:48
Try tightening the lubricated and non-lubricated wheel bolts with a torque wrench, say 110 N.m., counting the turns. You will see that the lubricated bolt will be tightened almost a quarter of a turn more. In the case when the key is not used (in different tire shops), the result will be even more depressing.
18-05-2009 20:59
red@vr6 I don’t know what and where you float, everything is twisted by hand without a torque wrench and there have never been any problems at all. In our city, tell the tire fitters about the torque wrench - you will see such an expression of the muzzle
Let's also say ... I don't live in Moscow ... and the temperature range is from -40 to +40. I would look at you, how would you unscrew the bolt tightened to dry, even with a torque wrench, after such a good winter during the spring change of shoes.
19-05-2009 06:16
| QUOTE(Saint Anger @ May 18 2009, 08:59 PM) |
| Let's also say... I don't live in Moscow... |
Yes, I lived in Omsk for some time. It is not clear how climatic temperature fluctuations affect the difficulty with unscrewing the bolts.
The temperature drops of the disk itself during the trip are much larger due to heating during braking, from this point of view I don’t see a difference between Moscow and Omsk.
19-05-2009 06:47
Interestingly, it turns out that the master, twisting, for example, the nuts of the camshaft covers, on one cover poured plenty of oil on the thread, and the other was wiped with a rag. Both covers were tightened with a torque wrench to the appropriate torque.
According to your statement, the master overtightened one cover, and, apparently, did not hold out the other.
But can you tell me the "slipperiness" coefficient, or whatever it is called there, in order to take a correction for lubricated and not lubricated wheel bolts.
But seriously, a small amount of graphite on the bolt cone and on the thread is useful and necessary. This is evidenced by experience and practice.
19-05-2009 08:28
Only for some reason they don’t know about this utility at VAG. Moreover, they consider it unacceptable. That's how it happens.
31-05-2009 21:53
From my experience, I lubricate with graphite but not abundantly for 15 years, and winter for stamping and summer for casting, as you can see, I have been driving for 15 years.
It helps a lot in our harsh conditions. I ride a lot.
14-11-2009 21:16
- “And where did the misconception come from that it’s impossible to smear wheel nuts, I can tell you. Previously, there was one lubricant - solid oil, the maximum t of application was 60 degrees. Then it gets up with a stake, and the nuts lubricated with it turn away just as badly as those not lubricated. Also, the double wheels on trucks are fastened with the “nut-futorka” system, the lubricated futorka is unscrewed along with the nut, this is a terrible smut. But the nut itself, by the way the outer wheel is attached, can be lubricated. the popular lubricant is Litol, max. t 130-150 degrees, and to heat up the wheel disc during braking is a must.
\\\ From Mastercity.ru forum
I don't oil the wheel bolts because I don't think they'll get used up in a season. But the lambda probe, for example, which has not been unscrewed for twenty years, is another matter.
15-11-2009 10:26
By the nature of my work, I unscrew these bolts in batches a day. Gentlemen, if the bolt is rusty, then why not lubricate it (meaning only the threaded part)? if you are sure that it is YOU who will have to unscrew it in half a year. 20 years of experience shows that if the disks are pieces of iron, it doesn’t matter if the casting, then if grease gets on the cone, it can be released.
For a long service life of the assembly, mechanism or part, lubrication is required. This applies not only to cars, but in general to all complex devices. Being on the surface, it creates a protective layer that prevents the penetration of water and air to the metal. Due to this, the process of corrosion does not occur, therefore, the strength characteristics remain the same, not counting the development.
However, in some places, lubrication can only interfere. This is due to the ongoing processes, or rather, the place of operation of the part. It may require increased friction or a dry surface to function. In such cases, it is better to exclude the presence of a protective layer or use special formulations. Wheel bolts fit perfectly into this topic, disputes about which do not stop to this day. Some motorists claim that lubrication is necessary in order to avoid corrosion and problematic loosening, while the other half contradicts it. Having analyzed in detail all the pros and cons, you can come to one conclusion, which will be the answer to this question.
You need to start with the fact that the wheel can be attached to the car in several ways - with nuts and bolts. Nuts are practically not installed on the wheels of modern cars, since it is not aesthetically pleasing and dangerous, which cannot be said about bolts. They, in turn, are produced in a variety of geometries and are tightly screwed into the wheel rim, which eliminates spin-up.
wheel bolts
There is practically nothing to talk about the device of this part, although there are some points that are worth paying attention to. Many probably noticed that all wheel bolts have a conical or oval shape.
This was not done in vain. Thanks to this edging, they center the wheel, since it has special recesses of the same shape, and also wedged into the metal due to friction.
Bolt sizes can vary over a wide range, but most often, for a passenger car, they are made with a diameter of 12-14 mm. The hat can also be made in different ways - for a wrench head, a hexagon, with a secret, etc. The last one on this list is worth paying attention to. Such bolts are sold with their own special key, which has a suitable geometry only for certain hats. On the one hand, this is good, because no one can unscrew and steal your wheels. But on the other hand, if you lose the key, you will have to throw out a lot of money so that they can be drilled at the service station. Speaking of length, it must also be defined so that at least a few millimeters of thread can be seen from the back of the hub.
This question is of interest to many, since one part of car owners uses special lubricants, while the other does not. What kind of problems can arise? First of all, it is rust, which absorbs the entire hat and threads in the hub. However, many bolts have an anti-corrosion coating that prevents this process. If the thread in the hub starts to rot, then the bolt itself will remain intact, so it’s stupid to talk about it unambiguously.
Another point is simmering. It often happens that when unscrewing, the head breaks off, and only one pin remains inside, which is very difficult to drill out later. According to supporters of lubrication, this is due to its absence, however, not everything is so simple. In any case, you need to take into account all the nuances and draw a conclusion.
- So, wheel bolts are lubricated to avoid rust and thread sticking to the hub.
This is true, because a protective layer is created that prevents the penetration of water and air, without which the corrosion process is impossible. This, in turn, prevents souring.
Wheel bolt lubrication
- The other half of motorists claim that lubrication only interferes, and can also cause loss of the wheel. In principle, this is also possible, since it significantly reduces friction. In theory, because of this, the bolt can loosen and completely unscrew due to high vibration (it is huge on wheels). But in practice, this happens very, very rarely.
- These two statements are true only in theory. If we talk about the real situation, then problems arise due to other circumstances. For example, most often it is difficult to unscrew the wheel bolt, not because of the lack of lubrication, but because of the previous tightening. Inexperienced owners or service workers often tighten them to the limit with pneumatic devices. Or, for example, everyone watched the picture of someone jumping with their feet on the key, spinning the wheel. Because of this, the problem arises when unscrewing. A strong constriction begins to deform and bite the thread with the conical part, which leads to sticking. If we take in addition the subsequent corrosion, then it will be almost impossible to unscrew it.
An extreme way to remove a wheel bolt: drilling a hole and then unscrewing the bolt with an extractor
- By lubricating the bolt, we increase the risk of loosening, and subsequently losing the wheel. However, this is also stupidity. Its conical part is not made by chance. When tightened, it, firstly, centers the wheel, and, secondly, tightly rubs against its seat in the rim. Due to this, a wedge occurs that prevents unwinding. That is, the lubricant here plays the role of only anti-corrosion protection.
- If lubrication is not applied, the threaded bolt in the hub may begin to corrode. If the bolt is not equipped with an anti-corrosion coating (which is becoming less common), then this is a completely fair remark. Moreover, the wheels are constantly in harsh conditions, especially in winter, when the road is sprinkled with salt. Getting on the metal along with water and dirt, the process of electrochemical corrosion begins, which quickly renders the product unusable.
Rusted without lubrication wheel bolts
So, taking into account all the above points, we can say that use lubricant not necessary , but if the bolt is prone to rust, it is possible, and it will even be useful. No wheel spinning threatens the car, since the bolts, due to the conical shape, are tightly screwed into the rim. The main thing is not to overdo it when tightening. It is not necessary to jump with all the weight on the key, since the effort of the hand will be more than enough. For more precise work, you can use a dynamometer, which will show how much force you are applying.
Also keep in mind that it is not necessary to lubricate the entire bolt. It is enough to apply a small part of the substance to the thread and the conical part. To do this, you can use copper grease, graphite, with molybdenum, etc. If there are no other options, you can lightly lubricate with lithol or grease. But use regular motor oil and is not recommended, since the benefit from it will only be in the first week, and then it will simply wash off. If you apply the consistency to the indicated places and tighten the bolts normally, without enthusiasm, then there will be no problems during the next spin.
So, if the bolts on the car stick and lend themselves to rust (moreover, one follows from the other - corrosion oxides, as it were, “solder” the bolt to the hub), then lubrication will help get rid of both of these problems. If the owner does not tighten the bolts from his foot, and they themselves are not prone to corrosion, then you can refuse to lubricate or apply it quite a bit.
Meanwhile, some car manufacturers often write in technical manuals that it is not recommended to lubricate the wheel studs and nuts due to the possibility of loosening them. Sometimes the same prohibition applies to bolts. And here there is one more "trick" - torque.
The fact is that each automaker for each model gives a clear prescription for the tightening torque of the original discs. This is done with a special torque wrench, however, balloon wrenches with the necessary torque are often included in the kit.
torque wrench
When applying lubricant, the tightening torque is slightly lost, respectively, the friction force is reduced. Therefore, a bolt with lubrication will need to be tightened more than without it, therefore, with a different torque. The catch is that it is already unknown at what exact moment a lubricated bolt should be tightened, since the information in the manual is presented exclusively for unlubricated materials. In this case, you have to act randomly.
Summing up all of the above, it is quite difficult to clearly answer the question of whether wheel bolts need to be lubricated. On the one hand, the lubricant really saves from sticking of bolts and corrosion, it will allow the motorist to forget about their dreary eversion and, moreover, drilling a broken stud. On the other hand, the warnings of car manufacturers and the downed tightening torque.
Probably, every motorist must himself, having collected all the information, decide for himself whether it is worth it or not.
Instructions for installing and tightening the car wheel
The wheels on the car are removed more often than all other parts. This is due to a change in the season, when rubber needs to be replaced, or with a puncture. In any case, you have to unscrew the bolts, with which difficulties often arise.
In general, installing and tightening bolts is a simple matter, requiring almost no serious skills. You need to do the following:
- Thoroughly clean the wheel hub with an iron brush before installation.
- If you decide to lubricate the bolts, prepare a grease. Copper or graphite is best, but similar ones can be used.
- Apply a light layer of grease to the taper of the bolt and its threads.
- After that, install the wheel in its place, and make the bolts by hand. Feeling the effort, take a suitable wrench and pull them even harder so that they center the disc, that is, get into their saddles.
- Then find in the operating book how much torque to tighten the wheel bolts. This information may also be available from other sources. The main thing is that you find out with what force you need to attract them. For example, here is a table:
- Find a wrench with a dynamometer and stretch the bolts crosswise. This will ensure uniformity, and therefore, reliability of fastening.
Despite the simplicity of the wheel and the bolts with which it is attached, you also need to be able to install it on the car. Please note that even in the service station, tightening is carried out without observing these important requirements. Most often, no lubricant is used, but they are twisted with a pneumatic device without taking into account the moment of force. Therefore, it is better to install the wheels on the car yourself in order to take into account all the nuances.
in fact, lubrication is not so necessary. of course, without lubrication, the likelihood of corrosion and souring increases significantly, as do potential problems - stripped threads, licked edges, broken bolts and studs. but on most machines and without lubrication, everything is normally unscrewed and twisted. just with a regular key outside the tire fitting, without lubricating the wheel fasteners, you really run the risk of being unable to put a spare tire, for example.
Another important point in my opinion is cleaning the mating surface and the contact point of the central hole in case there is rust (in 2/3 cars) and its lubrication. this will save the wheel from "sticking" to the hub. for example, on most bmw wheels tend to stick and they need to be knocked down with unscrewed fasteners - the central hole holds very tightly, if you need to remove the wheel yourself, this may not be possible without something heavy (in fact, you can knock it down with a spare tire, a large stick, a sledgehammer , and if there is nothing at hand, then loosen the fasteners until a gap of 3-4 millimeters appears between the wheel and the cone, and so make a small circle in the parking lot, braking sharply a couple of times.
As a former owner of a shank with many years of experience, of course, I will say that everything needs to be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated - mating surfaces, fasteners, and studs (if any) so that all contact surfaces are clean and lubricated. this totally facilitates the work of the renter and minimizes the risks of operation - the inability to put a spare wheel on the road or hit a torn/broken fastener.
I always recommended tightening by 10-20 nm more than according to the passport, because. there data for a dry, new thread. rusty requires an increase in moment by as much as 30%. and I added 10% to guarantee against torque wrench error. our fasteners have never been unscrewed, there were 3.5 thousand customers in the client base, of which more than half were permanent. so the stats were good.
You can use any lubricant except wd-40. lithol, graphite - it doesn't matter. best of all, of course, what it should be - copper. but it is expensive, it is not sold everywhere, it is rather for perfectionists. wd-40 contains kerosene with the cheapest engine oil, by the end of the season there is nothing left of it, but if there is no other lubricant at hand and there is nowhere to take it, then it is better to spray at least wd-40, so at least during the tightening, most of the moisture will be removed from the thread and cone pressure points and there will be less corrosion than if no lubrication is done at all.
Another point - tire fitting in autumn / winter is usually done in conditions of either precipitation or already lying snow. water and snow inevitably get into the thread during tire fitting, so corrosion is accelerated many times over. if you do not lubricate the thread, then sticking and corrosion in such conditions are guaranteed. therefore, especially when shank in the autumn season, be sure to lubricate everything.
And since we are talking about the tavern. please, in the name of the memory of a.s. Pushkin, do not use secrets with weak keys! mcgard and other *** with a secret key having a hook depth of 2-3 mm with fasteners - this is EVIL! secret keys with thin walls are also EVIL. now the market is full of lock pullers (a head with curved knives inside), which silently and for a second removes ANY lock, except for the filthiest locks in the world - regular French ones: it is better to change them as soon as you see them on your car! the key to them will DEFINITELY break, it's only a matter of time. it’s good if there is a handy owner in the tavern, who will cook a broken key for free out of “love for art” and regular customers. but the probability of this tends to zero. pullers will not help you either, there is nothing to cling to. you are guaranteed to get in. it is best to take locks with reliable keys - with thick walls, with a large number of edges for reliable transmission of large torque for unscrewing. remember that a secret is protection from "pioneers", they will not detain a real pro, but they can put you up for a lot of money - in many services they still have not heard of pullers and do not even know how to fill heads of a smaller denomination (or rather do not want to spoil your tool) - welding, grinder, etc. are immediately used. with the complete destruction of the wheel and exorbitant price for the work.
In general, the article is stupid. in countries with a warm climate, it may and may not be possible to lubricate the wheel fasteners, but in our country it is simply impossible to operate the car normally without it.
The quality of connections is very important in any industry. Even the most durable materials without proper connection are nothing more than a set of parts. In order to create a single whole out of these parts, for example, a car that could withstand various high loads and environmental influences, engineers at all times invented different types of connections. To date, a threaded connection is one of the most popular and effective types of connections . Threaded connections are used everywhere and not only in mechanical engineering, they are convenient, and unlike welding connections, they allow disassembling and assembling the mechanism several times without harm to parts.
The threaded connection easily withstands: vibration, temperature changes, shock loads, as well as exposure to aggressive environments. However, this type of connection has a sworn enemy - moisture. Each of you knows what happens to the thread after a few years if it is not treated with anything and not unscrewed from time to time. The threaded connection is exposed to corrosion, which tightly fastens the two parts, as a result, if necessary, unscrew the bolt or nut, it becomes very difficult. Sometimes, in order to unwind two stuck parts, you have to suffer for a long time and eventually resort to extreme measures (grinder, drill, chisel, hammer, welding).
In this article I will tell you how to avoid trouble with threaded connections during car repairs. You will learn how to process bolts and nuts so that they do not rust and are easily unscrewed.
How to lubricate the thread?
- grandfather methods. The fact that old nuts and bolts are difficult to unscrew over time was known by our great-grandfathers, it was they who were the first to come up with ways to protect threaded connections. During the assembly of one or another assembly, the bolts and nuts were dipped or smeared with "working off", nigrol or grease. Such treatment, although for a short time, nevertheless made it possible to protect the thread from moisture and prevented the appearance of corrosion. The disadvantage of this method is that over time, these lubricants are washed away or leaked out under the influence of high temperatures. Although it should be noted that using this method will still simplify future disassembly and save you from having to cut the bolts with a grinder or chop them with a chisel.
- Graphite (or graphite) grease is designed for lubrication and subsequent protection of threaded joints and mechanisms subject to stress. The advantage of this lubricant is the fact that even when exposed to moisture or even partial washing out, drying, etc., a thin graphite layer remains on the rubbing surface. It is this layer that will ensure the sliding of the thread during disassembly or unwinding of threaded connections. Graphite perfectly protects metals subject to oxidation, corrosion and is well suited for processing parts and threaded connections of the undercarriage (cables, hinges, coupling mechanisms, bushings, etc.).
- Litol replaced the older grease - grease. Litol is more versatile than grease, like previous lubricants, it is water resistant and is used mainly on rubbing parts. This grease has excellent conservation properties and reliably protects metal parts and threaded connections from corrosion.
- Copper grease (paste). It is mainly used for processing the back side of brake pads, parts and threaded connections of the exhaust system, as well as other places that are subjected to high temperature loads (up to 1100 ° C). , prevents sticking and simplifies disassembly after many years of operation. The disadvantage is that such a paste is not cheap, so it is an expensive pleasure to process threaded connections with it. Copper paste perfectly performs a protective function and is one of the most effective means of protecting threaded connections.
- Anticorrosive ("Movil" or analogues). everyone knows, but not many people know that thread can be processed with this tool. In principle, it is logical that the anti-corrosion agent is used precisely in those places where rust most often appears. The only negative is that after hardening and several years of operation, Movil acts like glue and can create additional resistance when trying to unscrew a bolt or nut.
Summing up
Using any of the above lubricants will allow you to avoid problems during disassembly of parts and threaded connections.
- Protective lubrication for threaded connections is a time saver. The faster and easier you can loosen a bolt or nut, the faster you can get the job done.
- Thread Lubricant - Save money. The more difficult it is to unscrew the bolts, the more expensive the entire repair will cost. Moreover, often rusty nuts and bolts stick or rust to such an extent that for disassembly it is necessary to break and cut ... And this, as you understand, is an additional cost.
- The use of protective lubricants - saving your strength and nerve cells. I think there is no need to explain here that a quick and easy unscrewing will take you less strength and save your nerves.
Actual:
