Changing the oil in the automatic transmission Renault. the cost of a full and partial oil change in a Renault automatic transmission

Changing the oil in the automatic transmission Renault. the cost of a full and partial oil change in a Renault automatic transmission

29.06.2020

Renault claims that the gearbox in the Renault Fluence is maintenance-free, and the oil in it is not changed for 100,000 kilometers, which is equivalent to the entire operation of the car for one owner. But at the same time, one must take into account the fact that the regulation of 100 thousand km is suitable for favorable climatic conditions, under which the oil slowly loses its useful properties, and can last much longer. In difficult Russian conditions, oil will have to be changed much earlier - for example, every 40-45 thousand kilometers. This procedure does not require special skills, and is available for home use. Let's consider it in detail using the example of Renault Fluence with an automatic transmission.

Types of oil change

  • Partial
  • Complete

In the first case, the old oil is not drained, but only new liquid is added. A certain volume is injected up to 100 percent filling. This procedure is carried out very quickly, but is relevant only with a small run. So, if the oil is black or dark brown, or stinks of burning, then a complete replacement will do. It involves first draining the old oil, then flushing the gearbox with a special compound, and only after that new oil is introduced.

What materials are needed to change the oil

  • Towel, rubber gloves
  • New gear oil
  • Tool kit including wrenches and hex keys
  • Canister for draining old fluid
  • Funnel and hose for easy filling of new liquid
  • Lift or jack with high wheel supports - for full access to the underside of the vehicle

What oil to prefer for automatic transmission

Renault recommends filling with original Dexron-III fluid, or other options - ZF TE ML 09.14, Ford ESD-M2C138CJ/ESP-M2C166H and Allison C-4. Oil type - synthetic or semi-synthetic. The required volume is 4 liters.

Getting Started

  1. First you need to warm up the engine so that the oil reaches operating temperature. When hot, the liquid becomes more liquid and fluid, and pours out much faster than when the engine is cold.
  2. We install the car on a flyover, raise the bumper and remove the motor protection
  3. We open access to the oil drain neck, we substitute a technical container under it, where the old oil will be drained. We unscrew the cork, and observe the process of draining
  4. Let's pay attention to how much oil was poured. How much new fluid will need to be introduced into the filler hole
  5. There is another cover on the gearbox. We unscrew it, and the rest of the oil flows out of it into a pre-prepared container.
  6. While the oil is draining, we find the filler cap located under the battery. The principle of partial replacement is that about 60-70% of the total amount of old oil will pour out of the gearbox. For more effective cleaning, this procedure can be repeated after 60 kilometers.
  7. The next step is to fill the gearbox with new oil. For this procedure, it is advisable to use a funnel and a hose for easy pouring. This will prevent splashes and burns on fingers and hands. It is recommended to wear rubber gloves
  8. After filling the oil, make sure that the fluid level is sufficient using a dipstick. If necessary, add a little more fluid if the oil mark on the dipstick does not correspond to the optimum level. On this, the process of changing the oil in the Renault Fluence automatic transmission has been successfully completed.

All about automatic transmission DP0

Automatic transmission DP0

1. Specifications

2. Safety precautions while working with automatic transmissions
2.2 Towing
2.3 Oil used
2.4 Oil drain
3. Filling with automatic transmission oil
3.1 Procedure for filling and checking the oil level
4. Torque converter lockup test
5. Measurement of pressure in the pressure line
5.1 After troubleshooting
6. Removal and installation of the hydrodistributor
7. Leaf spring arm adjustment
8. Removal and installation of an automatic transmission
8.1 Removal
8.2 Work carried out on the left side of the vehicle
8.3 Work carried out on the right side of the vehicle
8.4 Installation
9. Removing and installing the multifunction switch
10. Multi-function switch adjustment
11. Removal and installation of automatic transmission computer
12. Replacing the automatic transmission computer
13. Removal and installation of vehicle speed sensors and torque converter turbine rotation speed
14. Removal and installation of the solenoid valve for flow control
15. Electromagnetic valves of the hydrodistributor.

1.Specifications

Vehicles with DP0 automatic transmissions are equipped with "Shift Lock and Lock up" systems.
The "Shift Lock" system blocks the movement of the selector lever if the brake pedal is not simultaneously pressed.
NOTE
When providing technical assistance in case of failure of the battery, follow the instructions in the vehicle operating instructions.

The "Lock Up" or torque converter lock-up system allows you to establish a direct connection between the automatic transmission and the engine. This is realized thanks to the "mini-clutch" installed in the torque converter.
The "Lock Up" system is controlled by the ECU.
Lubrication of the automatic transmission is carried out under pressure, therefore, it is provided only when the engine is running.
Therefore, in order to avoid serious damage, the following rules must be observed:
– under no circumstances should you drive with the ignition switched off (e.g. on a downhill slope);
– do not move the car by pushing it (for example, to drive to a gas station). If the need arises, take precautions;
Since the vehicle's wheels are driven only when the engine is running, it is not possible to start the vehicle's engine with an automatic transmission by pushing it.

2. Safety precautions while working with automatic transmissions

1. The automatic transaxle is composed of high-precision parts, which requires careful inspection before reassembly, because even a small scratch may cause fluid leakage or affect performance. The repair instructions are organized so that you only work on one group of items at a time. This will help avoid confusion from similar parts of various subsystems that are simultaneously in your workplace. Inspection and repair of groups of elements begins from the side of the converter housing. Inspect, restore and reassemble them before moving on to the next group of items. If you find a defect in a certain group of elements during reassembly, immediately inspect and repair this group. If it is not possible to immediately assemble a group of elements (waiting for ordered parts, etc.), place all the parts of the group in a separate container.
2. All disassembled parts must be washed, all channels and openings must be blown out with compressed air.
3. Dry all parts with compressed air, never use cloths.
4. When using compressed air, do not direct the jet of air at yourself to prevent accidental contact with working fluid or kerosene on your face.
5. Clean parts only with recommended automatic transmission fluid or kerosene.
6. After cleaning, arrange the parts in the correct order for efficient inspection, repair, and reassembly.
7. When disassembling the valve body, store each valve with its corresponding spring.
8. Place new brake and clutch discs to be used for replacement in a container of working fluid for at least 15 minutes before reassembly.
9. Coat all O-rings, clutch discs and plates, rotating parts and friction surfaces with hydraulic fluid before reassembly.
10. Replace all gaskets and rubber o-rings with new ones.
11. Do not apply sealants to gaskets and similar parts.
12. Make sure that the ends of the circlip do not line up with any of the cutouts and are properly seated in the recess.
13. When replacing a worn bushing, also replace the subsystem containing this bushing.
14. Check thrust bearings and raceways for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
15. Use Vaseline to hold the pieces together.
16. When working with a gasket material that is finally formed in the working position, you must follow the following procedure.
Using a blade and scraper, remove all old gasket material from the sealing surface.
Thoroughly clean all elements from the removed gasket material. Clean both sealing surfaces with a non-marking solvent.
Reassembly should be carried out within 10 minutes after applying the gasket material to the surface to be sealed. Otherwise, the gasket material must be removed and replaced with a new one.

2.1. Towing

In all cases, it is preferable to transport the car on a platform or tow it with the front wheels off.
At the same time, in exceptional cases, it is allowed to tow the car at a speed not exceeding 20 km/h and for a distance not exceeding 30 km (in this case, the selector lever must be in the “N” position).

2.2. Oil used

The oil is filled into the automatic transmission DP0 for the entire period of operation. Therefore, the box does not need maintenance. In case of small leaks, only topping up the oil is carried out.
Applicable oil:
– ELF RENAULT MATIC D3 SYN DEXRON III standard.
Capacity:
– total volume 6 l.

2.3. Oil drain

ATTENTION
On gearboxes with plugs of both versions, when changing and checking the oil level, be sure to put the selector lever in the “P” position.

The design of drain and control plugs has been changed.
The procedure for draining and checking the oil level is the same for both plug options.
Hot oil (no more than 60 °C) should be drained from the automatic transmission in order to remove as much dirt as possible.
Place the car on a lift.
Remove the engine undertray.
Old design.
Two parts of the following purpose are successively screwed into the hole:
- control plug;
- drain tube.
To completely drain the oil from the gearbox, remove both assemblies.

Old automatic transmission drain hole design:
1 - control plug;
2 - drain tube

To check the oil level, remove only the control plug

New Design Automatic Transmission Drain Hole:
1 - plug of the control hole;
2 - drain tube;
3 - hex key

Remove:
- control hole plug;
– the drain pipe with an 8 mm hexagon wrench.
Let the oil drain.
ATTENTION
The removed drain tube must be replaced.

Install a new drain tube.
Torque tighten:
- control plug of the old design (25 Nm);
- a drain pipe of the old design (35 Nm);
- a control plug of a new design (35 Nm);
– a drain tube of a new design (90 Nm);
Fill the gearbox with oil and check its level.

Filling port for automatic transmission:
1 - plug of the filling hole

Filling is carried out through the appropriate opening
Use a 15/100 mesh filter funnel to avoid contamination.

3.1. Filling and checking the oil level

Park the vehicle on a level, level surface.

Disconnect the wiring harnesses from the computer.

Battery shelf bolts:
1 - fastening bolts

Loosen the bolts securing the battery tray.
Remove the battery tray and ECU bracket.
Set aside the turbocharger air control solenoid valve (if the vehicle is equipped with a turbocharger).

Removing the accelerator cable:
1 - cable

Remove the accelerator cable.
Disconnect the cable from the lever on the gearbox:
– compress the tip of the cable at points A;
– pull the lock in direction B;
Disconnecting the cable from the lever on the gearbox

– Raise the accelerator cable at point C.
Fill the automatic transmission with 3.5 liters of fresh oil.
Attach the wires to the battery terminals, starting with the positive terminal.
Start the engine at idle.

Enter into a dialogue with the automatic transmission computer.
Watch the temperature of the oil in the box.

Gearbox drain hole

Install a vessel, if the oil does not leak or the amount of leaked oil is less than 0.1 l, stop the engine.
Add 0.5 liters of oil, let the gearbox cool down to 50 °C and start the engine at idle.
Reconnect the diagnostic tool (CLIP) and start dialogue with the automatic transmission computer.

When the temperature reaches 60 °C ±1, unscrew the plug of the control hole.
Place a container under the car to collect the oil.
Repeat these operations until more than 0.1 l of oil has been poured into the container.
Screw on the control hole plug.
Torque tighten (35 Nm) the oil level plug.

NOTE

In the event of an oil change, the electronic oil life counter (built into the ECU) must be reset.

Record the oil change date by running command: CF074 Record gearbox oil change date using the diagnostic tool (CLIP).

NOTE

In case of repair work on the automatic transmission, the following parts must be replaced:
– self-locking nuts;
– sealing gaskets;
- rubber gaskets;
- torque converter mounting bolts.

4. Torque converter lockup test


Raise the car until the wheels are off the floor by a few centimeters.
Connect the diagnostic tool (CLIP).
Enter into a dialogue with the automatic transmission computer.
Monitor the oil temperature parameter in the automatic transmission.
The check should be carried out at an oil temperature in the range of 60°–80°C.
Start the engine, put the selector lever in position D.
Keep track of engine speed. Enter the dialogue mode with the ECU.
While holding the brake pedal depressed, fully depress the accelerator pedal.
The front wheels must not turn.
ATTENTION
Do not hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed for more than 5 s. If this period of time is exceeded, the torque converter or the automatic transmission itself can be destroyed with a high degree of probability.

Immediately after the measurement, release the accelerator pedal and continue to hold the brake pedal depressed until the engine speed stabilizes in idling mode (if this requirement is not observed, there is a risk of failure of the automatic transmission).
NOTE
For vehicles with a K4M engine, the crankshaft speed is set at 2700 ± 150 min–1.
For vehicles with an F4R engine, the crankshaft speed is set at 2500 rpm.

If the torque converter locks up when the engine speed is out of specification, replace the torque converter.
NOTE
The cause of the torque converter blocking at a reduced crankshaft speed may be insufficient engine power.


5. Pressure measurement in the pressure line

Necessary fixtures and special tools:
- special device (Bvi. 1215-01);
– a set for checking the oil pressure in the automatic transmission (in a case);
- 25 bar pressure gauge.
Some automatic transmission diagnostic procedures require the pressure in the delivery line to be measured with a pressure gauge.
The hole for connecting the control pressure gauge is located next to the pressure sensor.

Pressure port:

1 - bolt

To check the pressure in the pressure line, unscrew the pressure port bolt.
Connect a control pressure gauge.
Perform the check on a hot engine at an oil temperature in the gearbox of 60–80 °C.
Check the oil pressure in the pressure line under the following conditions:
- selector lever in the "P" or "N" position, the engine speed is 2000 min-1. The pressure should be within 2.6–3.2 bar;
– Selector lever in “R” position, engine speed 2000 rpm. The pressure must be above 4 bar;
– Selector lever in position “D”, engine speed 2000 min–1. The pressure in 1st gear must be above 7 bar.
If the fault persists, the cause is a mechanical or hydraulic fault in the transmission.
To determine the causes of the malfunction, check the correspondence of all states and parameters.

5.1. After troubleshooting

Delete stored faults from the memory and move the card in the reader to the 1st fixed position.
Carry out a road test.
Finish the operation by checking with the diagnostic tool.

6. Removal and installation of the hydrodistributor

Withdrawal
Place the car on a two post lift.

Remove the battery cover.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal.


Disconnect wiring harnesses:
- from the storage battery;
- from the shelf under the battery;

Disconnecting harnesses:
1 - battery harnesses;
2 - harnesses from the shelf for the battery;
3 - ECU harnesses

- from the injection computer.
Remove the battery, ECU and battery tray.
Removing the side amplifier: 1 - side amplifier wiring harnesses; 2 - fastening bolts

Disconnect the wiring harness from the side amplifier, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the side amplifier

Removing the fasteners of the hydraulic distributor cover: 1 - fastening bolts

Unscrew the four bolts securing the hydraulic distributor cover (be careful: oil may leak)
Bolts of fastening of the hydrodistributor

Turn out seven bolts of fastening of the hydrodistributor.
Disconnect the solenoid valve connectors.
Replace hydraulic distributor.
Alignment of the valve with bolts

Installation
Install the hydraulic distributor after centering it with bolts 4 and 5 shown in the figure.
Screw in the remaining bolts.
Tighten the hydraulic distributor mounting bolts in the order shown in the figure to the required torque (7.5 Nm).

7. Leaf spring arm adjustment
Holding the Multi-Function Switch Lever with a Clamp and Bolt

Hold the multifunction switch lever in the end position (in the forced first gear position) with a plastic tie and a bolt screwed into the gearbox housing

Leaf spring arm mounting bolt:
1 - bolt;
2 - roller;
3 - sector

Remove bolt 1
Leaf Spring Lever Adjustment:
1 - sector;
2 - deepening

Install the leaf spring lever by inserting the roller into the recess of the sector corresponding to the forced engagement of the first gear

Arm bracket bolt:
1 - bolt

Screw in the lever bracket mounting bolt without tightening it).
Install tool (Bvi. 1462) in place of bolt 1.
While holding the lever, screw the tool in until it stops.
Torque tighten the leaf spring arm bracket bolt (9 Nm).
Remove tool (Bvi. 1462). Install the lever mounting bolt.
Tighten the lever mounting bolt (8 Nm) to the specified torque.
In case of valve replacement, reset the self-tuning parameters using the command: RZ005 "Reset self-tuning parameters" and reset the automatic transmission oil life counter using the diagnostic tool by entering the command: CF074 "Record transmission oil change date".
After executing command RZ005, be sure to drive with repeated shifts to higher and lower gears to enter new values ​​​​and settings into memory.
Torque tighten:
– bolts of fastening of a cover (10 N m);
- battery (40 Nm);
- Amplifier mounting bolts (21 Nm).

8. Removal and installation of an automatic transmission
ATTENTION
To prevent damage to the contact disc under the steering wheel, observe the following instructions:
- before disconnecting the steering shaft from the steering mechanism, be sure to block the steering wheel with a special device with the wheels set to the straight ahead position, and the steering wheel must remain locked during the entire time of work;
– at any doubt in correctness of centering of a contact disk remove a steering wheel and center a contact disk.

8.1. Withdrawal
Place the car on a two post lift.
Remove the engine top covers.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal.
Remove:
- air intake pipe;
– rechargeable battery;


– an inlet air pipeline;
- wiring harness attachments.
Remove the ball end of the multifunction switch cable with a tool and remove the cable.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the speed sensor, the wiring harness, releasing the movable part of the connector and unscrew the mounting bolts of the modular connector bracket.

ATTENTION
Protect the connector by placing it in a waterproof plastic bag.

Engine crankshaft speed sensor K4M

Remove the engine speed sensor
Engine speed sensor F4R

Clamp the hoses with clamps.
Disconnect the hoses from the cooler.
Remove the wiring harness from the transmission.

Starter mounting bolts:
1 - bolts

Remove the two starter mounting bolts and remove the engine undertray.
Drain the gearbox oil.
Remove wheels and fenders.
Disconnect the wires from the ABS sensors and the wires from the xenon headlight range control sensors (if installed).
NOTE
The xenon headlight range sensor is located on the left control arm.

8.2. Work performed on the left side of the vehicle

Loosen the hub nut using tool (Rou. 604-01).


Suspension ball joint

Remove the ball joint of the suspension arm.
Disconnect the wheel drive shaft from the steering knuckle.
Remove the left front wheel drive shaft.
Remove the transmission ECU harness holder and side booster.

Disconnecting the transmission ECU connector:
1 – a clamp of a plait of wires;
2 – a socket of an EBU of a transmission

Open the transmission ECU harness lock and disconnect the transmission ECU connector

8.3. Work carried out on the right side of the vehicle

Loosen the hub nut using tool (Rou. 604-01).
Remove the tie rod end ball joint using tool (Tav. 476).
Remove the anti-roll bar ball joint using tool (Tav. 476).
Remove the ball joint of the suspension arm.
Remove the intermediate support flange.
Disconnecting the drive shaft from the steering knuckle

Disconnect the drive shaft from the steering knuckle.
Remove the right front wheel drive shaft.
Secure the engine cooling radiator/condenser assembly to the top cross member with twine.
Remove side reinforcement
Removing the lower radiator cross member

Remove the lower radiator cross member

Removal of jet draft: 1 - nuts of fastening of the final pipeline

Loosen the exhaust manifold nuts and remove the tie rod.

F4R engine.
Removing jet thrust:
1 - nuts for fastening the exhaust pipeline;
2 - jet thrust

Loosen the exhaust manifold nuts and remove the tie rod.
Remove the strut mounting the manifold to the bottom of the engine.
Removing the starter:

1 – a bolt of fastening of a starter

Loosen the mounting bolt and remove the starter.
Loosen the three torque converter mounting nuts.

NOTE

Access to the torque converter fastening nuts opens after the starter is removed. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to access the three nuts connecting the drive plate to the torque converter.

Removing the upper studs of the gearbox housing:
1 - studs

Remove the upper studs securing the gearbox housing to the engine block.
Secure the hood with straps.
Remove the gearbox support pad.
Place a hydraulic jack under the gearbox.
Remove the lower bolts securing the gearbox to the engine block.
Remove the transmission studs.
Remove the automatic transmission.

Securing the torque converter

Secure the torque converter with a string to prevent it from moving.

8.4. Installation
ATTENTION
Do not re-use torque converter and drive plate mounting nuts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
Check for mounting bushings.

Installation is made in an order, the return to removal.
Torque Converter Disc

When installing an automatic transmission on the engine, make sure that the input shaft of the gearbox and the torque converter are aligned exactly.
Torque tighten:
- wheel bolts (110 Nm);
– bolts of fastening of directing fingers of a bracket of a brake (7 Н·м) ;
– a nut of fastening of a finger of a spherical hinge of a tip of steering draft (37 Nm);
– a nut of fastening of a finger of a spherical support of the suspension arm (62 Nm);
- bolts for fastening the jet thrust to the subframe (105 Nm);
- bolts for securing the gearbox and starter to the engine (44 Nm);
– a nut of a pendular support of a transmission (62 Nm);
– a nut of fastening of a finger of a spherical hinge of a tip of steering draft (62 N·m) ;
- torque converter fastening nut on the drive disk (37 Nm);
– bolts of fastening of an arm of the modular socket (20 Н·м) ;
– bolts of fastening of the gauge of frequency of rotation of a cranked shaft of the engine (10 Н·м) ;
- bolts for fastening jet thrust to the K4M engine (105 Nm);
- bolts for fastening the jet thrust to the F4R engine (180 Nm);
– a nut of fastening of a pendular support to a pillow (180 Nm).
Fill the oil in the automatic transmission and check its level.
In the event of an oil change, reset the adaptive correction parameters with command: RZ 005 "Reset self-tuning parameters" and reset the oil life counter in the automatic transmission computer with command: CF074 "Record gearbox oil change date".
After executing command RZ005, be sure to drive with repeated upshifts and downshifts to memorize new settings.

9. Removing and installing the multifunction switch

Withdrawal
Set the selector lever to the "N" position.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal.
Remove:
- air intake pipe;
– rechargeable battery;
- a shelf for the battery;
– ECU of system of injection together with an arm;
– the case of the air filter;
- wiring harness attachments.
Disconnect:
– a spherical tip of a cable of a drive of the multipurpose switch;
– drive cable from the sheath stopper on the modular connector bracket.
Remove the two bolts on the multifunction switch mounting lever.
Disconnect the modular jack by releasing its movable part.
Remove the three screws securing the modular jack bracket.
Remove the two screws securing the modular jack bracket.

Multifunction switch connector

Remove the green multifunction switch connector (12-pin).

Installation
Set the multifunction switch to neutral "N".
Adjust the multifunction switch.
Installation is made in an order, the return to removal.
Tighten the selector lever nut to the specified torque (10 Nm).

10. Multi-function switch adjustment
With the gear selector in the neutral position, attach the two tips of a meter to the position test leads.
Installing the multimeter

Set your multimeter to "ohmmeter" mode.
Turn the multifunction switch manually until the switch closes (resistance at the switch contacts is 0 ohm).
Torque tighten (10 Nm) the multifunction switch mounting bolts.
ATTENTION
After tightening the bolts, the electrical contact must be closed (0 ohm).

Check system operation and gear shifting.

11. Removal and installation of automatic transmission computer
Withdrawal
Place the car on a two post lift.
Remove the engine top covers.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal.
Remove the front bumper.

1 - ECU connector;
2 - intake silencer

Disconnect the ECU connector and remove the intake silencer
Removing the intake silencer:
1 - fastening nuts;
2 - ECU

Remove the two ECU mounting nuts and remove the ECU.

Installation

Installation is made in an order, the return to removal.

12. Replacing the automatic transmission computer

NOTE

When an automatic transmission computer is replaced, it is necessary to memorize the new computer with the value of the gearbox oil life stored in the memory of the replaced computer.
Proceed as follows: read out the oil service life in the memory of the control unit to be replaced using parameter PR133 "Odometer until next oil change" and write it down
.
Replace ECU.
Enter the oil life data into the memory of the new ECU using the command: CF320 "Transfer odometer data until next oil change".
Verify the data entry by displaying the "Odometer to next oil change" parameter.
Enter the after-sales service date using the command: CF320 "Record after-sales service date".
Carry out a road test to memorize the entered parameters with the new ECU.

13. Removal and installation of vehicle speed sensors and torque converter turbine rotation speed
Withdrawal
Place the car on a two post lift.
Remove the engine top covers.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal.
Torque Converter Turbine Speed ​​Sensor

NOTE

It is not necessary to drain the oil and remove the automatic transmission to remove the sensors from the torque converter turbine speed and ground speed.
Be sure to remove the modular connector when replacing the sensor.

Remove the engine undertray.

Removing the connector

Remove the connector shown by the arrow in the figure from the gearbox bracket.
Torque Converter Turbine Speed ​​Sensor Location

Remove the torque converter turbine speed sensor.
ATTENTION
Protect the connector from damage by packing it in a waterproof plastic bag.

Removing the sensor
movement speed

Speed ​​sensor connector

Disconnect the sensor connector
Location of the speed sensor

Remove the speed sensor.
Installation
Installation is made in an order, the return to removal.
Torque tighten:
– a bolt of fastening of the gauge of speed of rotation of the turbine of the hydrotransformer (10 Н·м) ;
– a bolt of fastening of the gauge of speed of the movement (44 Н·м).

14. Removal and installation of the solenoid valve for flow control
Withdrawal
Place the car on a two post lift.
Remove the engine top covers.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals, starting with the negative terminal.
Feed control solenoid valve

NOTE

To remove the coolant oil control solenoid valve, it is not necessary to drain the oil and remove the automatic transmission.

Removing the flow control solenoid valve:
1 - fastening bolts;
2 - solenoid valve

Remove the two solenoid valve mounting bolts and remove the coolant oil control solenoid valve.
Installation
Installation is made in an order, the return to removal.

15. Electromagnetic valves of the hydrodistributor
ATTENTION

Strictly follow the cleanliness requirements during operation to prevent foreign particles from entering the hydraulic valve system.

Electromagnetic valves of the hydrodistributor:

1 - solenoid pressure control valve;
2 – electromagnetic valve of blocking of the hydrotransformer;
3 - solenoid valve No. 4 of the gear shift sequence;
4 - solenoid valve No. 3 of the gear shift sequence;
5 - solenoid valve No. 1 of the gear shift sequence;
6 - solenoid valve No. 2 of the gear shift sequence;
7 - solenoid valve No. 6 of the gear shift sequence;
8 - solenoid valve No. 5 of the gear shift sequence

ATF(Automatic Transmission Fluid) - liquid oilfor automatic transmission, which due to high fluidity is usuallycalled liquid.

Over time, it collects the products of development. Renault automatic transmission oil manufacturer - company ELF, writes on its official website that change automatic transmission oil required every 25,000 - 50,000 km (or every 2 years). On the ATF canisters themselves is indicated shelf life 5 years.

Regulationscar maintenanceRenault in Russia does not contain automatic transmission fluid replacement.

However, in 30% of cases causebreakdowns automatic boxesRenault DP0 and DP2 is hydroblock failureautomatic transmission.

The fact is that with an untimely oil change in a Renault automatic transmission, the transmission fluid changes its properties - it oxidizes and loses viscosity, and also accumulates metal powder and chips from rubbing parts. This leads to clogging and coking of the oil channels of the automatic transmission valve body.

Corporation Renault-Nissan in Russia for cars Nissan introduced automatic transmission oil change every 60,000 km or 4 years into the regulationsexploitation. Earnestly recommend brand ownersRenaultadhere to the same regulations and produce automatic gearbox oil change every 50,000 - 70,000 km of run.

There are two types of maintenance for Renault automatic transmissions - partial and complete oil changes in automatic transmissions. In the technical center Renault-Repair:

  • partial oil change in automatic transmission Renault - price 900 rubles
  • full hardware oil change in automatic transmission Renault - price 3000 rubles

Partial replacementoil in a Renault automatic transmission implies a natural drain of fluid through the drain plug of the oil pan. Usually in this way it is able to leak about40% waste oil.

Clean transmission fluid is poured from above, then it is mixed in a box with dirty one. Partial oil change in Renault automatic transmission necessary repeat 3-5 times, every 150 - 200 kilometersmileage.

Until a clear liquid drains. Thus, in the box it is possible to replace about 75% oils. This type of replacement is not regulated by Renault automakers, since it does not allow you to completely replace the fluid in an automatic box.

partial replacementRenault automatic transmission fluidwe recommend to carry out with a car run without a complete hardware replacement of ATF more than 100,000 km. At the technical center Renault-Repair price partial replacementoils in Renault automatic transmission - 900 rub.

Complete replacementoil in a Renault automatic transmission can beonly hardware. The car mechanic-aggregator connects the installation, selects the car model from the computer database, then the volume of fluid to be replaced is automatically determined.

Replacement occurs by the substitution method. Dirty oil is displaced and replaced by the same amount of clean oil, while the liquids do not mix. The aggregator sees on the indicator the color of the ATF that is being filled in and that is being drained. When the color matches, the machine turns off.

To prevent washed-out dirt from getting into the valve body during a complete ATF replacement, it is necessary to flush the automatic transmission before replacing it. We do it with a professionalflushing agent from well-known German oil manufacturerLiqui Moly.

It removes the formed deposits on the parts and in the hydraulic system, and also allows you to remove insoluble contaminants from the box.Complete replacementliquids in Renault automatic transmission ismore economical- less oil is used and the maximum effect is achieved at a time.

At the technical center Renault-Repair cost of automatic full replacement oils in Renault automatic transmission - 3000 rubles

There are several types of ATF for different automatic transmissions. On some Renault models, along with a fluid change, a filter change is required, as well as a replacement of the automatic transmission pan gasket. All these consumables are maintained in the Renault-Repair warehouse.

Call, our experts will advise you and select a convenient time to visit the service!

On Renault Fluence cars, an automatic transmission oil change is usually performed if it is necessary to repair the automatic gearbox itself. Or if there are leaks in the system. Then you have to drain the lubricant to perform the appropriate manipulations. It is recommended to trust the work to specialists, but in some situations you can change the lubricant in the automatic transmission on your own.

You can change the oil in a Renault Fluence automatic transmission yourself.

Reasons for replacement

According to the Renault Fluence manufacturers, their automatic transmissions are filled with gear oil for the entire operational period. That is, under ideal driving conditions, the car will not need to change the lubricant in the automatic transmission. In practice, only a few drivers reach the mark of 300 thousand kilometers without replacement, and most change the oil after 100-150 thousand kilometers. If the reason for the replacement is in the resulting leak, first you have to determine where the leak originated. Basically, leaks are formed due to:

  • wear of the glands of the automatic box;
  • wear of the surface of the shafts, the formation of a gap between them and the sealing elements;
  • wear of the seals of the box and the drive shaft of the automobile speedometer;
  • the occurrence of play on the input shaft of the gearbox;
  • damage to the sealant layer between the components of the automatic transmission;
  • loosening the fastening bolts connecting the elements of the machine.

When the oil level drops in the Fluence box, the clutches fail. Low pressure does not allow them to properly cling to the discs, because they do not have tight contact with each other. As a result, there is a strong heating of the friction linings, they are charred and gradually destroyed. This negatively affects the quality of the oil, in which dirt forms.

In such situations, replacement is necessary, otherwise it will lead to:

  • filling of plungers and channels of the valve body with mechanical particles, wear of bushings and box parts;
  • overheating and increased wear of steel discs in automatic transmissions;
  • overheating and combustion of rubberized pistons, thrust discs, clutch drum, etc.;
  • wear and failure of the hydraulic unit.

Since the oil is contaminated, it is not able to effectively remove heat from the automatic transmission and lubricate the rubbing elements with high quality. The result of using such oil is often a breakdown of the machine. Contaminated grease is an abrasive, viscous fluid that has a sandblasting effect when exposed to high pressure. Prolonged ignoring of the problem leads to numerous leaks and costly repairs.

Selection of oils

The instruction manual clearly indicates which oil is poured into Renault Fluence if it has an automatic gearbox. When choosing, start from this information, since an alternative lubricant does not always fully cope with the task. Never use oils below the grade specified in the recommendations. Usually, synthetic compounds are poured into Fluence on an ongoing basis, that is, they do not change it. The manufacturer explains this by the absence of loss of technical and chemical properties of the liquid under the influence of various internal and external factors.

But one should take into account the mechanical wear of parts, the formation of a suspension in the composition of the lubricant and the condition of the friction clutches. Therefore, with an impressive mileage, it is still necessary to change the transmission oil in the transmission to Renault Fluence. If the replacement was not carried out immediately, and the car drove on contaminated oil for some time, be sure to check the condition of the box components and perform a full replacement.

From the Renault Fluence factory with gearboxes, the machine is filled with Renaultmatic D3SYN oil manufactured by Elf. Such a composition is optimally suited to the design features of an automatic transmission. Therefore, the French car company recommends using such a transmission fluid in case of replacement.

It cannot be guaranteed that oils with similar characteristics, but of a different grade or manufacturer, will be able to similarly effectively operate the gearbox. Therefore, when choosing a lubricant, start from the recommendations of the automaker. The recommended lubricant is all-weather, therefore the choice does not depend on the climatic conditions in which the vehicle is operated.

To change gear oil in an automatic transmission of a French Renault Fluence, you will need to prepare:

  • a flat area with a pit or a car lift;
  • empty container for draining the lubricant;
  • new box filter;
  • new gear oil;
  • set of keys for dismantling works;
  • funnel for pouring lubricant.

Before changing the old oil, make sure that the causes of malfunctions in the Renault Fluence car are related to the transmission lubricant. For this . Use the oil dipstick, which has two pairs of marks: "Min" and "Max". The top pair is for testing with hot grease, and the bottom pair is for testing with cold. To assess the composition and condition of the liquid, simply drop a little oil from the dipstick onto a white cloth. This will allow you to see signs of wear, dirt particles and discoloration of the lubricant.

Replacement is carried out in two ways:

  • partial;
  • full.

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A visit to a service station does not guarantee 100% quality work. And what is so difficult in the procedure for replacing filters and engine oil? Read our instructions, tips and videos and everything will become clear.

A "Zero Maintenance" can also be carried out for a new machine. This is an oil and filter change after the first 3 thousand km. This is not a mandatory recommendation, but you can do it if you want.

What to pour into the engine

Step-by-step instruction

  1. Warm up the engine to operating temperature and then allow to cool for 5-7 minutes. The oil drains better and faster if it is not cold. Hotter can burn you, so it's better to let the motor stand for a while.
  2. Open the filler neck of the cylinder block (where we wake up to fill in the oil) and pull out the dipstick. If you give through access to oxygen, the liquid will flow out faster.
  3. We jack up the car and put it on stands. A necessary step for easy access to the drain plug. You can also use a viewing hole or overpass.
  4. We unscrew the drain plug with a square. Alternatively, door handles are put on a square that can fit this plug ... Remember that used oil wakes up hot, take precautions to avoid skin burns. If protection is installed on the engine (a protective sheet of metal from mechanical damage), it must be removed.
  5. Drain the waste into a prepared container. Do not drain mining directly to the ground!
  6. Unscrew the oil filter. If the filter is tightly clamped, a special removable key for the filter may be required.
  7. We put a new filter after lubricating its sealing ring with oil, and pouring a little oil right into the middle so that it absorbs it.
  8. We twist the drain plug after making sure of the integrity of the washer located on its thread. If necessary, it must be replaced (sealing washer).
  9. We lower the car from the racks and fill the oil into an empty engine, guided by the dipstick.
  10. After the filled oil wakes up to correspond to the middle of the dipstick between the MIN and MAX marks, we expect 3-5 minutes. After we warm up the engine for about 5 minutes, and again measure the level. As a rule, after the first warm-up, the level drops and we add as much as we need.

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