Toyota: 4A, 5A, 7A-FE engines. Guide - part 6
4. Install the first qi piston
lindra at TDC at the end of the compression stroke.
4.1.
a) Turn the crankshaft pulley
la and align the groove on the pulley with
label "O" on the protective cover No. 1
timing belt.
6)(4A-F, 5A-F)
Make sure the valve lifters
1st cylinder released. In against
otherwise, turn the crankshaft pulley
shaft for one complete revolution.
4.2. (4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE)
Make sure the hole in the pulley
camshaft drive with
fit with a label on its lid
bearing.
Otherwise, check
a) Turn the crankshaft pulley
and align the groove on the pulley with
coy "0" on the protective cover No. 1 rem
nya timing drive (for models AE and
AT) or with index pin
(for AW model).
b) Remove the oil filler cap
neckline and make sure you can
you can see the notch on the distributor
shaft.
Removing and installing the timing belt (4A-GE (AE92, AW11 and AT160)). 1 - pulley to
crankshaft (alternator drive pulley and coolant pump
sti), 2 - crankshaft pulley mounting bolt (MZ = 137 N.m), 3 - wedge
howling drive belt for the generator and coolant pump, 4 - for
shield cover No. 1 timing belt, 5 - coolant pump pulley,
6 - protective cover No. 2 of the timing belt, 7 - protective cover No. 3 of the timing belt,
8 - protective casing of the engine wiring, 9 - protective gasket
timing belt covers, 10 - timing belt tensioner, 11 - mounting bolt
timing belt tension roller (MZ = 37 N.m) (for AW model on the head
Timing, 13 - tension roller spring, 14 - timing belt
(timing belt), 15 and 16 - toothed camshaft pulleys respectively
inlet and outlet valves, 17 and 18 - mounting bolts
toothed pulleys of camshafts, respectively, inlet and
exhaust valves MZ = 47 Nm (AE92 until 1987, AW11 and AT160).
MZ = 59 Nm (AE92 after 1987). 19 - a gear pulley of a cranked shaft
for timing belt.
Otherwise, check
crankshaft for one revolution (360°).
5. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
a) Using the right tool
loosen the fixing bolt
b) Using a puller, remove
(compress) the crankshaft pulley.
4A-F, 5A-F and 4A-FE (AE92, AE95
AT171 and AT180).
6. Remove belt guards
timing drive.
4A-FE(AE101 AND A T 1 9 0) ,
5A-FE and 7A-FE.
4A-GE
7. Remove the belt guide
timing drive.
8. Remove the timing belt.
Attention: in case of reuse
belt use, draw
belt direction arrow
(in the direction of rotation of the crankshaft
motor shaft) and make marks
on the belt and pulleys, as shown in
drawings.
a) Loosen the tension bolt
foot roller, move it until it stops
ra to the left and then temporarily fix
rut it in this position with the same
mounting bolt.
Removal and installation of the timing belt (4A-GE (AE101, AE111)). 1 - washer tank,
2 - hydraulic booster reservoir, 3 - right engine support, 4 - protective cover
wires of the ignition system, 5 - oil filler cap,
6 - spark plug high voltage wires, 7 - spark plugs, 8 - tooth
Timing belt tensioner, 11 - protective cover No. 1 of the timing belt, 12 - pulley to
crankshaft (alternator drive pulley and coolant pump
sti), 13 - right engine protection cover, 14 - compresso drive belt
air conditioner and power steering pump, 15 - generator drive belt
and coolant pump, 16 - coolant pump pulley,
17 - tensioner roller for the drive belt of the generator and the cooling pump
fluid, 18 - protective cover No. 3 timing belt, 19 - protective cover No. 2
timing belt, 20 - washer pump connectors.
Engine - mechanical part
(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
a) Unscrew the nuts (bolts) and remove
the timing belt tensioner.
b) Remove the timing belt.
Attention: when the timing belt is removed, do not
turn junction
and crankshafts to avoid
collision between pistons and valves.
Engine - mechanical part
9.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Remove the tension roller and tension
spring by completely unscrewing the bolt
tension roller attachment.
10. If necessary, remove the gear
crankshaft pulley. When
difficulties, use 2 screwdrivers.
Attention: to prevent
damage to cylinder block elements
ditch place a rag as shown
on the image.
11.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
If necessary, remove the gear
distributor drive pulley
shaft (4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and
7A-FE) or drive pulleys
camshafts (4A-GE
(AE92,AW11,AT160)).
Holding the camshaft
from cranking by setting times
water wrench on his hex
part, unscrew the fixing bolt
and remove the pulley.
Note: for 4A-GE (AE92, AW11,
AT160) remove the pulley from each race
limiting shaft.
4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE.
4A-GE(AE92,AW11,AT160).
3.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Check the tension roller spring.
Measure the free length of the spring
condition (see picture), as well as
Lie required for a given de
formations (stretch marks) of the spring ("mouth
new "amplifying).
Attention: when performing this operation
walkie-talkie do not damage the wrench
what is the head of the block.
(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
See relevant procedures
section "Checking and adjusting the
valve clearances" (p. 9-15).
Checking the state of the elements
timing gear
1. Check the timing belt
Timing.
Attention:
The belt must not be bent
twist or turn inside
her side out.
The belt must not contact
wash with oil, water or steam.
Can't use tension
belt when loosening or
turning the fixing bolt
camshaft pulley.
If you have the following
defects, check their possible
a) Premature dissection
or broken belt, check
the correctness of the installation of the belt and its
shield covers.
b) Damage or breakage
belt teeth check fastening
camshaft.
c) With significant wear or
damage on the outer surface
belt, check the presence of
damage or dents on the surface
tension roller.
d) If there is wear or damage
only one side of the belt
check the condition of the guide
belt and/or pulleys.
e) If there is significant wear
check the condition of the belt teeth
protective covers, correct
ness of installation of the gasket and cash
any foreign objects on
pulley teeth.
If there are defects
replace the timing belt.
2. Make sure the tension roller
rotates smoothly, without jamming. IN
otherwise, replace the roller.
The length of the spring in the free state
early releases 43.3 mm
late releases 38.4 mm
4A-FE (Models AE92, AE95,
AT171.AT180) 43.3 mm
4A-FE (Models AE101,
AT190) 35.3 mm
5A-FE 36.9mm
7A-FE 31.8mm
4A-GE (models AE92, AW11
and AT160) 43.5 mm
Force required to increase
spring length to "installation"
states:
early releases (50.2 mm) 69H
later releases
(50.2 mm) 35.5 - 39.5 N
4A-FE (Models AE92, AE95,
AT171, AT180) (50.2 mm) 65-73 N
4A-FE (Models AE101,
AT190) (43.6 mm) 35-39H
5A-FE (43.6mm) With 34 -38 N
7A-FE (37.6 mm) 47.5 - 51.5 N
4A-GE (models AE92, AW11
and AT160) (50.2 mm) 93 - 103 N
If the spring length and/or "set
internal" force do not correspond
specifications, replace
4.(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
Check tensioner seal for
no grease leaks, and the stem is
no wear, cracks or scratches.
Note: minor traces
lubricants on the stem seal are not
indicate a malfunction on
loader.
Timing belt installation
Note: Don't get hit
water or oil on the gear
camshaft pulleys
shafts and keep them in
purity.
1.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Install the drive pulley
camshaft (if
(4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE)
a) Align the dowel pin
on the toe of the camshaft with
groove of the toothed pulley and fit
those pulley on the camshaft.
Attention: for 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE
2 types of pulleys are used with one
or two grooves, in the last
case dowel pin on
camshaft wear
should be aligned with the groove,
labeled accordingly
("A" - 4A-FE, "K" - 5A-FE,"E" - 7A-FE).
Engine - mechanical part
b) Using the gear bolt
that crankshaft pulley,
return the crankshaft and
Keep the sync marks on
toothed pulley and on the oil housing
foot pump.
(4A-GE(AE92, AW11 and AT160))
a) By setting divorce in turn
wrench for hex sections
camshafts, rotate
them and align the synchronizing
marks on the gear pulleys
casting shaft and on the protective
cover #4 of the timing belt.
b) Rotate the crankshaft and
fit sync marks
on the toothed pulley and on the housing
lye pump.
(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
a) Make sure the labels on the
head cover and pulleys.
4A-F and 5A-F.
5. Install the piston of the 1st cylinder in
TDC position at the end of the compression stroke.
(4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE)
a) Installing the wrench on
hex section
shaft, rotate it and
fit the mark on the bearing cover
nick camshaft with
the center of the small hole on the pulley
camshaft (4A-F and
5A-F) or with hole center,
labeled accordingly
("A" - 4A-FE, "K" - 5A-FE, "E" - 7A-FE).
c) Holding each - distribute
body shaft for its hexagonal
part with an adjustable wrench, tighten
distribution pulley bolt
body shaft (MZ = 59 Nm).
2.(4A-GE)
Install qi head covers
lindrow (see "Installing the block head
ka cylinders").
b) Temporarily install the crepe bolt
pulley.
c) Holding the distributive
shaft for its hex part times
with a water wrench, tighten the screw
capturing the camshaft pulley.
Torque:
4A-F, 5A-F 47 Nm
4A-FE. 5A-FE and 7A-FE 59 N.m
(4A-GE (AE92, AW11 and AT160))
a) Position the installation
camshaft pins,
as it shown on the picture.
b) Align the dowel pins
camshafts with grooves
kami toothed pulleys and fit"
pulleys for camshafts.
In this case, the installation marks should
we be located at the top like
shown in the figure.
3. Install the crankshaft pulley
that shaft (if removed).
a) Align the key on the crank
tom shaft with keyway
toothed pulley.
b) Put the pulley on the toe of the crank
of that shaft to the stop by flanging in
inside.
4.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Temporarily install the tension roller
and tension spring.
a) Fix the roller with the bolt without tightening
bending the last one.
b) Install the tension spring.
c) Pull the roller to the left as far as it will go and
tighten the bolt.
Replacing the timing belt and changing the fluid was done alone.The time spent on everything is approximately 6 hours.
In the workshop for such an operation, it is on such an engine that they will take from 1000 rubles.
Motor: 5A-FE
Automatic transmission: A240L
You need to buy the necessary parts: a belt (about 500r), a tension roller (about 420r), an oil filter for the engine (about 180r). The quality of the video is just perfect, and why can't ours do the same :(
Tools:
We remove the right wheel, the right mudguard of the motor. 
And we proceed to the most important procedure: unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolt. As you can see in the photo, there are holes in the pulley for special. tool, of course we can do without it. Let's insert into one of the holes (with a blunt end, of course), an ordinary punch from a standard Soviet set of keys. You need a good head for 17, 2 extensions and a handle at least 0.5 meters long (end tool). The mount must be taken rigid so as not to bend. Then we fit the mount between the punch, the head and the suspension arm so that it does not pop out when unscrewing. Here it is important to find a good point of support for the mount (you can not rest the mount against the drive). An additional person during this operation can even interfere, since it will take a sufficiently large moment to unscrew it, and he will not be able to hold the mount with his hands. It is very important to check the position of the mount when installing the mount and immediately before starting to apply force: it should be as close as possible to the pulley. And of course the axis of the entire key coincide with the axis of the crankshaft.
closer to the pulley.
And of course the axis of the entire key coincide with the axis of the crankshaft.
Turn the handle of the key counterclockwise!
You need to have enough strength to unscrew this bolt even with a key with a 0.5 meter handle, and you need to constantly, during the application of force, control the alignment of the key and the crankshaft, the position of the mount.
This is the end of the hardest part of the job.
Now remove the alternator belts:
why we specialize the "axial" bolt
(view from above) 
tension bolt
(view from above) 
lock bolt
(view from below) 
air conditioning belt,
why unscrew the lock
and loosen the tension bolts
(view from above)
remove power steering belt
(view from below, wheel arch) 
(view from above) 
Now all the belts are removed, you can remove the timing belt, for which we remove the valve cover, and the mudguards of the timing belt. 
Unscrew tensioner pulley bolt (also counterclockwise). After making sure that the belt tension has loosened, you need to carefully and carefully remove the belt from the gear splines). Never twist or pull the belt!
(view from below) 
After removing the belt, you can remove the tensioner roller, for which unscrew the bolt and remove the tensioner spring. 
At this stage, I install a new tension roller.
Now that the belt has been removed from the gears, it must be pulled under the engine mount,
(view from above) 
to do this, you need to raise the engine by at least 2 cm, after unscrewing the 3 bolts of the support
(view from below) 
Looking at the old belt, we understand that the replacement was nevertheless made for our own peace of mind: since the previous belt replacement, the car has run 65 thousand, and even a hint of signs of aging is not visible on the belt.
Be sure to compare the belts (old and new) for matching serial numbers, after which you can start assembling.
We drag a new belt under the engine support and immediately fasten it into place, lower the engine.
Timing belt installation: carefully without turning the gears we install the belt so that on the right (where there is no tension roller) it is tensioned, then we tighten the left side with a roller, and tighten the roller lock bolt.
(view from below, through the wheel arch)
The timing belt mudguards are installed from the bottom up.
Install the belts for the air conditioner, generator and gur in the opposite order to removal.
When everything is set, you can change the oil and filter, start and make sure that the engine is running normally and the Check Engine light does not light up.
Complete fluid change in automatic transmission.
Special tools: manual oil pump, 100-150 ml syringe.
The presence of a flyover or viewing hole is mandatory.
Manual oil pump 
1. We stock up on the necessary amount of liquid (Dextron III 6.5l at 200 rubles per liter). It is better if you can always quickly take the required number of liters for unforeseen circumstances, for example, if you have to change a very old fluid.
2. We drain, having unscrewed the bolt-plug from the automatic transmission crankcase, the old liquid, along the way checking its consistency, the amount of friction chips, gears, etc. (it will come out about 3 liters), i.e. we make visual diagnostics of mechanisms for possible repairs.
3. Using a syringe with a curved cap, remove the remaining oil from the crankcase. We wrap the bolt-plug to the crankcase.
4. To pump oil, you need a manual oil pump, a tube suitable for the outer diameter (this tube will need to be inserted deeper into the automatic transmission dipstick tube).
5. We pump the oil pump with old fluid, then make a few strokes with fresh fluid.
6. We pump fluid into the automatic transmission (as much as it was pumped out) through the dipstick tube.
7. Remove the left mudguard of the engine, find 2 hoses going from the automatic transmission to the bottom of the radiator, disconnect the tube with which it will be most convenient to work (a small amount of liquid may leak out).
8. We start the engine (the automatic transmission selector is in the P position) and, observing the color (to the light) of the liquid coming out under a slight pressure, we wait for it to become clear or air to appear. (If air has gone, then turn off the engine and add oil and repeat step 8. again)
.
(will come out about 3.5 liters)
- After the liquid has gone light, wait a little (10 seconds) and turn off the engine.
- Restore the connection broken in step 7.
- Upload fresh liquid - about 3 liters.
- Wait 5 minutes for the liquid to escape from the walls of the dipstick tube, set the Max level on the Cold scale.
- Start the engine (automatic transmission selector in position P) and check the fluid level, set the level (topping up) to Max on the Cold scale, (repeat starting from step 12.)
- Start the engine and drive the box in different modes (while standing still) P-R-N-D 4 times with a delay in each position of 3 seconds. (repeat steps 13-14, bring the level to max in the Cold position)
- Drive around the city to warm up the fluid to operating temperature and check the fluid level on the dipstick, top up with a syringe if necessary.
Throughout the following week, constantly monitor both the engine oil level (with the engine off, after waiting 5 minutes after stopping) and the automatic transmission fluid level (in the morning on the Cold scale; after long trips, in the evening on the Hot scale; on the running engine immediately before / after driving; automatic transmission selector in position P), top up in small portions as necessary.
Attention: if after changing the oil there is a delay when turning on (more than 1.2 seconds in the passport), sharp jerks when starting, moving, or something else, then 99% that you can’t ride on such a liquid!
Demin Sergey aka Shark
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And liquids in the Toyota engine 1.5 l 5A-FE. You will need approximately 6 hours.
The first thing you will need to do is remove the right wheel, then remove the mudguard. Everything, you can proceed to the most difficult procedure, our task is to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. Once you get to the pulley, notice that it has holes for a special tool. We will use a simple punch from the usual Soviet set of keys.
You will need a good head for 17, the handle of which is no shorter than 0.5 meters long, you will also need a mount. This pry bar must be placed between the punch, suspension arm and head, place it so that it does not fly out, find a good fulcrum, remember that the mount must not rest against the drive. Now the key handle is unscrewed, you need to turn it counterclockwise. You will need a lot of strength in order to be able to unscrew this bolt. As soon as the bolt is unscrewed, the most difficult work is over. You can remove the alternator belts.
To do this, you will need to loosen the "axle" bolt, stop bolt, tension bolt and loosen the adjusting bolt.
Everything, when nothing interferes, you can remove the timing belt, for this, the valve cover is removed, as well as the mudguards of the timing belt. The tensioner roller bolt must be unscrewed, it is unscrewed counterclockwise.
Let's start removing the timing belt
After the belt tension is loosened, carefully remove the belt. Do not pull or twist the belt.
As soon as the belt is removed, we begin to remove the tensioner pulley. We unscrew the tensioner spring first.
To remove the belt, you need to drag it between the support and the motor, to do this you need to lift the engine.
Before you put a new belt, you need to compare it with the old one, the new belt must be installed carefully, without turning the gears.
Timing belt guards must be installed from bottom to top.
Oil change in automatic transmission
This part of the article will tell you how to replace. Of the tools, we need a 100-150 ml syringe. and manual oil pump.
We buy liquid (Dextron III to us need 6.5l).
It merges like this: - you just need to unscrew the bolt-plug from the automatic transmission crankcase; - take a syringe, put a wrapped tube on it, this is to remove the remaining oil from the crankcase; - everything, the bolt can be wrapped.
We need a manual oil pump to pump oil. Fluid need pour exactly as much as was pumped out. Now you need to remove the left engine apron (there you will see two hoses that go from the automatic transmission to the radiator), you need to disconnect the tube (not much liquid will flow out). Now we start the engine, after we observe the color of the liquid that comes out.
As soon as air comes out, turn off the engine and fill in the oil again. And when a light liquid starts to flow, wait 10 seconds, then turn off the engine.
Now we connect the tubes and pump in a new liquid - about 3 liters. We wait five minutes, set the level, max on the Cold scale. We start the car, and once again check the fluid level.
Now you need to drive the box in different modes, but you need to stand still P-R-N-D about four times, the delay in each position should be about 3 seconds. You can also ride to heat the liquid to operating temperature, then check the level again.
More and more, our site is “rolling” towards diagnostics. Which is not surprising - chiptuning a faulty car is unacceptable. And the client, as a rule, comes for a “flashing” with a whole bunch of faults, hoping to cure the car that has become depressed.
Therefore, we will consider a seemingly simple procedure for controlling the installation of timing phases, which is necessary for monitoring and replacing a timing belt or timing chain.
2108 , 2111
The mark on the crankshaft pulley should be opposite the triangular mark on the engine (photo 1). In this case, the mark on the flywheel should be opposite the triangular mark on the casing. These marks will be visible if you remove the rubber plug on the gearbox (photo 2). The mark on the camshaft pulley should be opposite the L-shaped mark on the rear timing belt cover (photo 3).
2112
On engines 2112, the mark on the crankshaft pulley should be opposite the triangular mark on the engine (photo 4). You can still control it from above. The U-shaped protrusion on the gear must be exactly in the middle of the triangular mark on the engine. On the camshaft gears, the marks should be opposite the triangular marks on the back cover of the toothed belt (photo 5).
When replacing the timing belt on new 16-valve engines, there is no traditional triangle mark. The mark can be seen in the window of the clutch housing by removing the rubber plug, which is not very convenient. You can make it easier to align the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the ebb on the oil pump housing, as shown in photo 5 a.
2121 (2104 –2107 )
On Niva 21214 engines (and classics 2104-2107), the label that is on the drive disk should be opposite the label on the front cover of the engine (photo 6). The mark on the camshaft pulley should be opposite the ebb on the bearing housing (photo 7).
On Chevrolet Niva engines, the mark that is on the drive disk should be exactly in the middle of the DPKV (photo 8). The mark on the camshaft pulley should be opposite the ebb on the bearing housing (photo 7).
21106 , Engine OPEL
On these engines, the installation of timing marks is intuitive, just like on 2112, that is, 2 marks on the camshaft drive gears and one on the crankshaft pulley. In the photo, all marks are indicated by arrows.
Replacing the timing belt Skoda Octavia A5 should be carried out in a timely manner, although the concept of timeliness in different countries may differ from the numbers declared by the manufacturer. Skoda determines the replacement of the timing belt after 120,000 kilometers or after 5 years, regardless of mileage, as well as a check at 60,000 and 90,000 kilometers. When you drive in a mild climate without sudden changes in temperature, and on clean roads that are not covered with various chemicals, but with normal gasoline, calmly, without traffic jams, and generally live in an ideal world, you can agree with such figures, but in the vastness of our Great and Invincible these figures should be reasonably underestimated, because a broken timing belt in most cases leads to Stalingrad under the hood with valve deformation and cylinder damage, and as a result, an overhaul of the engine. It's like stepping on an untied shoelace while quickly running down the stairs - you will remain alive, but bruises, abrasions, fractures will need to be treated for more than one day.
Given:
- Car: Skoda Octavia
- Release year: 2011
- Model year: 2011
- Engine: BSE (1.6 l., 1595 cc, 101 hp)
- ICE Features: MPI
- Gearbox: LVN (gearbox, 5 steps, modification 0AF)
- Preselective Gearbox Robot DSG: No
- Mileage: 78,322 kilometers
We accept Skoda as guests, we send it to the shower and then for a full diagnosis. Everything is like at the airport: a full check, things on the bedside table, what you are taking with you, the purpose of the visit, a frame scanner and #welcome. Tiring? But safely and calmly fly from point A to point B, where the biggest trouble will not be the hijacking of an aircraft or an explosion, but only air pockets and neighbors, although here you are lucky.
Replacing the timing belt of the Skoda Octavia A5, on the one hand, is a trifling operation for experienced navigators and captains, but not every conqueror of the sky from civil aviation can handle it. To begin with, we recline the battery terminals - the ignition must be turned off, otherwise there will be trouble.
For free work with the gas distribution mechanism, we free the passenger side of the engine compartment: we get rid of the upper decorative cover, the adsorber, the coolant reservoir and the filler neck of the washer reservoir, blocking and disconnecting all the necessary hoses, after which we proceed to the drive belt, it is also the belt of mounted units.
We remove the wheel and the “Shumka” on the right side, and here is the place where the drive belt is spinning in tandem with the pulley. We turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise, fix it with a hex socket wrench and calmly remove the weakened belt, marking the direction of its movement with a marker or chalk.
Putting a used drive belt against the wool during assembly may cause it to break. Who wants to be left without cooling, power steering and air conditioning? Under the guise, we dismantle the bracket and the tensioner itself.
Next up is the upper timing belt cover. Mechanics often see protection heavily “crippled” by screwdrivers - if you find two plates on the side of the engine and press them, then the protection can be easily removed without “barbaric” tricks.
We set the top dead center of the first cylinder, for which we combine the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the bottom of the timing belt cover. It can be seen much better with the eyes, but the apparatus did not manage to crawl there.
We check the upper mark of the camshaft gear for coincidence with the mark of the rear timing belt cover of the Skoda Octavia A5. Didn't fit?
We turn the crankshaft one more turn and get to the “Prize” sector.
Holding the central screw of the crankshaft gear with a wrench, unscrew the four bolts holding the crankshaft pulley and remove it to the assembly stage. We release the gas distribution mechanism from the protective covers, lower and middle.
We rush to the warehouse of special tools for the traverse for hanging the engine - now we will torment the right support. Without this, the replacement of the timing belt for the Skoda Octavia A5 will not take place. We unscrew the retaining bolts of the support and brackets according to the instructions, not forgetting that, according to the general scheme for mounting the engine mounts and their brackets, any unscrewed bolt is automatically sent to the scrap, and in our case - to the collection points for ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
We unscrew the bracket and engine support, raise the engine and unscrew the last bracket bolt.
We loosen the nut of the tension roller to be replaced, and at this the replacement of the Skoda Octavia A5 timing belt reaches its equator, after which it is necessary to go all the way in the opposite direction almost step by step, with small but important deviations from the course.
We install, but do not cock, a new tension roller. 
We carefully monitor that the timing system marks do not run away, for this we put the belt on the crankshaft gear, screw back the lower timing belt protection, the crankshaft pulley and check the camshaft mark.
The Germans fiercely learned the rule “Measure seven times - cut one”, you can’t miss here, just like with circumcision. We put the belt on the pump, the tension roller, and then on the camshaft gear. Theoretically, it doesn’t matter how to put on the belt, but from ancient times the tradition of manufacturers came that the factory marking should look at the installer, that is, it should be easy to read by those who approached the car from the right side.
We install the belt, return the lower casing (fasten the bolts with a force of 10 Newtons per meter) and the drive belt pulley (we fasten the new bolts with a force of 10 Newtons per meter and turn 90 °) to their places.
To finish with the belt, we need a set to work with the tensioner pulley.
We take the key, it is also a rod with two pins for the grooves, and with the help of moderate complex manipulations we cock the tensioner eccentric roller into the working position, after which we pull it with a force of 23 Newtons per meter.
We scroll the crankshaft, checking the coincidence of the marks, and re-check the tension - a weakened timing belt is equivalent to the beginning of hostilities under the hood with servicemen's reparations. Remember that with one revolution of the camshaft, the crankshaft makes two revolutions.
Now we assemble everything in reverse order, but we stop when we get to the right engine mount. Its correct installation meets three rules:
- for a guaranteed result, only new bolts are required;
- bolt heads are parallel to the edge of the engine mount bearing bracket;
- the distance between the bearing bracket and the support is 10 millimeters.
Ignoring any of the points will cause the gearbox or engine to knock on the spar when entering a turn, and this is not only time to fix, but also repeated spending on new bolts.
We install the crankshaft pulley, tensioner, return the drive belt to its place in the sequence “pulley - compressor - generator”. Do not forget to make a total replacement of the bolts according to the instructions, bravo clicking the speaker, counting the Newtons. Having done all these procedures, it is important not to forget to remove air from the fuel supply system (remember about the adsorber hoses) using special adapters, hose clamps and a scanner, otherwise you can cripple the catalyst.
Our plane is ready for further daily flights for many tens of thousands of kilometers. Replacing the timing belt Skoda Octavia A5 took 2 hours 40 minutes. The turnkey cost was 11 900 rub.
