He closed the holes on the doors of the car. The use of fiberglass in bodywork

10.10.2019

One of the most problematic and expensive options for giving a car a presentation is repairing holes in its body. This damage can be repaired at the service station or try to get rid of it yourself. The first method will require significant costs, but the second will be cheaper, but it will take quite a lot of time. In addition, not everyone can properly repair holes.

Stages of repairing body holes

Work to eliminate holes in the body requires careful preparation of the treated area. The area around the hole is carefully cleaned with coarse sandpaper, while its radius should be at least 3 cm larger than the size of the hole itself. They remove not only the top layer of paint and varnish, but also the primer. As a result, metal should be visible in the cleaned area, which is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.

Next, solder the patch. Any piece of metal of a suitable size can be used for it. It is important to consider that such repairs are carried out from the back of the body, so that the violation of its integrity is the least noticeable. Before soldering, the patch, as well as the damage site itself, is tinned using phosphoric acid as a flux. Its use is especially appropriate in this case, because, firstly, it eliminates the possibility of corrosion at the place of the solder, and secondly, it allows you to make the most reliable and inconspicuous seam.

The soldering of the patch is carried out continuously, leaving no loose gaps. After the treated area has cooled down, you should check if our patch is a bubble on the surface of the car. If, nevertheless, it turned out to be uneven, straightening is carried out with a small hammer, avoiding damage to the paint.

Further, the repair involves puttying the area with a patch in order to hide it as much as possible. First you need to sand the repaired area, then degrease it and dry it. Important: putty should be applied in a fairly thin layer, because with a thickness of more than 3 mm, the material will not adhere well to the metal. Priming itself is carried out in two stages: the application of acid and acrylic primer. In order not to bother with the preparation of a two-component composition for the first stage, you can use a phosphate primer packed in cans. Acrylic primer is also sold in aerosol form, which will be very convenient in the absence of a compressor and minor damage.

Alternative options for repairing holes in the body

To repair a hole with a small size, you can close the hole with putty by mixing it with fiberglass. This method is much faster and simpler than the previous one, but it will not last long either - under the influence of precipitation, the hole will begin to swell and become too noticeable. However, this option may come in handy if you are preparing a car for sale.

If there is no desire or opportunity to repair the hole, but you don’t want to drive with it, use stickers for cars. This is very often done with corporate or work machines. This type of repair is conditional, but the appearance remains on top.

If your car has serious damage, the size of a matchbox, it is best to fix it with welding. A professional at a good service station can skillfully perform them. Alternatively, you can do the welding work yourself if you have the proper experience and the necessary equipment.

pokraskamashin.ru

We close up a hole in the car body without the help of a welding machine

It sometimes happens that before repainting the car, the driver encounters one unfortunate obstacle. Layers of paint have been peeled off, and through holes are gaping in the back of the car. Naturally, many will turn to a specialist so that he closes up these holes with the hand of a professional. True, such work will cost a lot.

But there is another way. You can do everything yourself. This option is good if the hole is not very large, the size of a cork. In this case, you can try to cope with this problem without resorting to expensive bodywork services. Although if the hole is quite large, then, of course, one cannot do without the help of a specialist.

Option one

This method is simple, but it has its negative consequences. To get rid of the through hole, you need to add fiberglass to the putty and close the hole. This can be done easily and simply, and most importantly quickly, but such a solution to the problem is short-lived. Water over time will contribute to the fact that the covered place will begin to collapse again. So for a more thorough body repair, it is better to use the following method.

Option two

In the second option, you will need a piece of any metal. A patch of the desired size should be cut out of it, just make sure that the patch completely covers the hole. Then apply the patch to the hole and use a soldering iron and flux to solder it.

Before you start soldering, you need to irradiate the place to which this patch will be soldered. You should also irradiate the edges of the patch itself. And when you solder the patch, be sure to wash all the treated areas with flux.

After you have soldered the patch, see if it protrudes above the common surface. If it is convex, then you need to level it with a hammer and you can even bend it a little. After you have leveled the patch and made a small dent, you can consider that the first phase is over. Further, this recess will be leveled with putty.

When applying putty, keep in mind that more than 3 mm should not be applied.

To prepare the surface for filling, you will need 3M sandpaper or something like Mirka with an abrasive surface of about 120.

Now in a circular motion we clean the desired surface. This must be done in order for the putty to take better. After cleaning, degrease the surface with a cloth soaked in White Spirit, also remove dirt and dust.

Primer

Next, as is already clear, is the primer. The metal surface quickly oxidizes and becomes rusty. And the faster the primer is applied, the better. From personal experience I will say that it is better to use two types of soil. The first is phosphate, and the second is a two-component acrylic. The phosphate layer dries pretty quickly, so it needs to be applied quickly and only once. It is applied directly to the metal surface in a thin layer. After that, when the phosphate layer is dry, apply the acrylic layer. It should be applied several times, maybe 2 or 3 times with an interval of 5-10 minutes.

If you do not have a compressor for spraying, then you can use aerosol cans. All this dries up for about 2 or 3 hours. If you use infrared heating, then the time will be shortened and everything will dry out in 20-30 minutes.

These are all general tips on how to patch a hole in the body yourself. Now you can get to work. And if you use the second option, then such a patch will last another five years.

tdsmotors.ru

We close holes on a car without welding

The main enemy of cars is corrosion. In case of its untimely removal, holes may appear in the car body that require the golden hands of the master. Welding today is not a cheap pleasure, and it is not always possible to cook yourself, since not everyone can boast of having special equipment, and even experience in these matters. In this regard, many car owners find other ways to patch holes, and we will tell you about them today.

First of all, remember that before sealing holes, you must remove all rust. To do this, everything is carefully sanded, degreased, and only then they begin to perform any method of filling holes.

Types of possible payments.

1.Thin steel, put on holes and riveted. True, here you need to work carefully so that it is not visible.

2. Fiberglass is glued from the inside with epoxy, and from the outside we put it all with ordinary putty. To do this, carefully sand the place where the glue was applied, then apply epoxy and close it with a pre-cut square of glass wool. Now we keep this place for about 20 minutes under the light of a halogen lamp, the power of which reaches 500 watts. Keep your distance. Now the next layer of glue and a square of glass wool, dry, and so we impose ten squares. We dry the last square for about an hour. After it dries by tapping on this place, you can hear the sound of metal. Lightly sand, apply primer from a spray can, dry and paint.

3. Small holes can be repaired by cold welding. The process of its use is similar to standard welding.

4. Polyester resins with hardener for body work. We clean the holes, degrease, dilute the resin and smear the place where we plan the crate. We impregnate the prepared pieces of fiberglass, which we cut in advance and apply two layers. Dry for a day. Next, fry the fiberglass over gas in order to remove the paraffin. Cut out according to the template and apply in two layers. We do the same process on the reverse side. After that, we putty everything, prime it, cover it with seam sealants, prime it again and paint. By the way, you can paint and primer from spray cans.

It is worth noting that all methods of patching holes are suitable for those places where there is no load on them.

Stages of repairing body holes

Alternative options for repairing holes in the body

It's good if you have the opportunity to change cars like gloves. What if there is no such possibility? That apparently they have to "darn"! As well as those who do not have the opportunity to change these same gloves. In general, we do not want to draw analogies about the material well-being of motorists, and even more so to touch on their personal “I” in material matters, this is an everyday matter and is not subject to discussion. But at the expense of practical information assistance in matters of car repair, we can quite help with this. So, today's our topic is about patches on the machine. Such patches are needed when the body has through rust and there is nothing left to do but patch. In fact, there are several ways to fix a hole in the body. It is these methods that we will talk about.

Do-it-yourself patch on a fiberglass car body

The first option proposed by us is the use of fiberglass. Indeed, this material is already used by motorists often and successfully. There are many advantages to this, this is the versatility of making molds, and corrosion resistance, and ease of operation, and relative cheapness. Epoxy resin is used to fix the fiberglass and form the molds. And now about the same, but with a particular example.
The installation site of the future patch is cleaned of rust and dirt.

As a result, after drying, we apply several more layers of fiberglass impregnated with epoxy. As we said, this method is quite affordable for motorists, but it is not without drawbacks. Firstly, this is not a high enough adhesion, but means the likelihood that your patch will come off. Secondly, there are excessively different thermal expansions of metal and fiberglass, which again affects the strength of the connection of these materials with each other. This method is more acceptable for plastic parts and the like.
In any case, if you do not have special alternatives, this option is quite acceptable. Unless epoxy and fiberglass after hardening are best impregnated with bitumen or something similar, that is, painted.

Do-it-yourself patch on the car body soldered with solder and a soldering iron

The second option for installing a patch can be attributed to the era of Soviet motorists, when tinning of kettles and similar quite household procedures at first glance were in use. Welding machines were rare then, and not everyone had ordinary transformer welders, and holes were formed with an unenviable frequency. So it was necessary to look for a way out, and he was found. Soldering metal with a powerful soldering iron and solder is what can eliminate holes in the back of a rotten car. As with soldering, here we will need a flux for soldering.

Its role is to create a protective film around the place for soldering, which will prevent rapid oxidation, thereby improving the quality of the connection between the solder and the metal that we are soldering. Soldering acid is perfect for this. The latter can be purchased at radio stores. Now about the soldering iron. The power of a conventional soldering iron like a 25-40 watt soldering iron is clearly not enough to heat the metal and solder. Here you need a 1 kW soldering iron or so. You can use a soldering iron heated on a blowtorch or even a gas burner.
It is better to take carbide solder, it will be somewhat more difficult to work with it, but its durability will also be higher. We clean the holes from rust and dirt. and the edges to the metal.

If the holes are small, then they can simply be gradually “tightened” with solder, from the edges to the center. First, the solder is applied to the edges, and then builds up to the middle of the hole.

If the hole is large, then you can use a tin plate, for example, from canned food. The plate is soldered to the edges of the hole.

Do-it-yourself welded patch on a car body

Now about welding patches automatically. Why did we immediately write so critically in the first sentence that it should be done “automatically”? You better learn about this from the article "How to cook a car body with your own hands". And here we will focus more on the process, and not on motivational information about what to choose and what modes to use. So, the place of the hole - the hole is cut out with an angle grinder (grinder).

We grab it along the edges, trying to put it in the same plane with the plane of the body. Next, we go through welding along the perimeter of the patch and clean up the bumps with the same grinder.

We treat the metal with phosphate or primer and proceed to putty.

Sometimes, before painting a car, having picked off another “bug”, we suddenly find a through hole under it formed during the corrosion process. What to do in such a case? Run to bow to the repairman with a welding machine, or solve this problem on your own, even without a welder?

Everything, of course, depends on the general condition of the car, if this is only a local through hole, and not a completely rotten body part, then we will proceed to eliminate it.

To begin with, the corrosive place must be cleaned of rust. To do this, we use various brushes on the drill, or a special vinyl nozzle on the drill.

Next, we proceed to the elimination of holes formed as a result of stripping rust. In difficult cases, holes and openings of a large area, as already mentioned above, it is certainly necessary to turn to the help of welding and a bodybuilder.

We, however, will consider easier cases, where the size of the hole (hole) does not exceed the size of a matchbox. There are two ways to eliminate them.

Filling the hole with fiberglass putty is not our method.

Some auto repairers, either out of inexperience, or simply not wanting to achieve high-quality work, try to close up a corrosive hole with glass fiber putty. This is of course a very simple method, but it has one big drawback.

Let me explain, since the putty is inherently hygroscopic, i.e. passes water, then on a freshly painted car, in a couple of days or after the first rain, an ugly bubble filled with water will come out on a new coating in the place of the former hole. This is easy to verify if you pierce it with a needle. This option, chickens laugh and we do not need this method of repairing corrosive holes. That's why...

We solder the patch - and this is our method!

The principle of this method is quite simple - a patch. We cut out a piece of metal (as a "donor" you can, for example, use cans from car chemicals) a patch that covers the hole in the body with its size, and solder it with a powerful soldering iron, using an acid rust converter (orthophosphoric acid) as a flux, and of course tin solder.

All stages are shown in the picture below.

1 The edges of the patch must be irradiated before soldering. (All rust converter treated areas should be rinsed following the instructions on the rust converter label after soldering).

2 We also serve the surface (hole edges) to which the patch will be soldered. After soldering the patch (and it should be soldered with a continuous seam, without empty spaces), you need to measure whether it protrudes above the surface with a bubble. (We don't need bumps!). You can do this with a metal ruler. If it protrudes, then it follows with a light hammer and light blows to drown the patch (see Fig.).

The resulting small dip will be leveled with putty.

Remember! The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2-3 mm, otherwise it may crack in the future.

Now that all the holes are soldered, and all the rust is cleaned to the metal, we prepare the surface for puttying.

To do this, you need sandpaper with an abrasive size of 120 (manufacturers Mirka, 3M or similar).

We determine by eye the size of the places that should be matted. They should slightly exceed the size of the putty area. And with light circular movements we apply the adhesive risk. It is needed so that the putty has something to hold on to the surface.

After preparing all the places for puttying, we take a cloth, White Spirit and carefully process all the sanded surfaces, from excess dust, dirt, and the surface is also degreased.

And now we can move on to the responsible operation, preliminary priming. The cleaned metal surface rusts easily, so it is not recommended to leave the surface without a protective coating for more than an hour - a primer should be applied. To do this, you need two types of soil.

Priming with acid soil

The first layer of primer is phosphate, which is also acidic. As a rule, this is a two-component primer, diluted in glass or plastic dishes, as it interacts with iron to remove water molecules from the surface. Also, you can use acid primer in aerosol cans.

Phosphate primer is applied in one or two thin layers, directly on bare metal. It dries quickly, is very liquid, so it can give smudges, but in this case it's okay, smudges can be neglected. Within 10-15 minutes. (time is indicated at a temperature close to +20, at other temperatures make an approximate adjustment) you can start priming with acrylic primer.

Priming with acrylic primer

It should be applied in 2-3 layers with intermediate drying for 5-10 minutes. You can use primer from aerosol cans, especially if you do not have a compressor. Then all this is dried for about three hours (when using forced infrared heating, the drying time can be reduced to 20-30 minutes).

I want to note, from personal experience, that such patches last quite a long time. I will say this, two years is not the limit!

Happy repair!

sam-automaster.com

Corrosion repair without welding

The body of any car is the most expensive part of it, so it needs constant care and cosmetic repairs. Through corrosion is the problem of many modern machines. Are there ways to avoid buying a new car frame and how to fix a hole without welding - these are the two pressing questions of many car owners.

The cost of work in car services is impressive, so many people prefer to repair their cars on their own.

Tools and materials required for work

Corrosion repair without welding is the cheapest and easiest way to fix the problem. To do this, you need to buy the following set:

Aluminum mesh with size about 25*18cm;
Scotch tape (preferably metal);
fiberglass putty;
Sandpaper with a degree of grit 80 or 120;
Air machine for leveling surfaces;
Universal putty;
Primer;
Paint (to match the body);
Tools for polishing paintwork.

Stages of work

All work on the quick elimination of a hole in the body without welding is carried out in stages:

Cleaning the damaged area from rust and paint;
Fixing with adhesive tape on the empty place of the body of the aluminum mesh (there should be space between the strips of adhesive tape to fill the mesh with putty);

When fixing the mesh, it is necessary to apply maximum efforts to fix it flush with the car fender.

The space between the attached adhesive tape on the grid is filled with fiberglass putty. In this case, it is necessary to carefully rub the material into the cellular mesh structure to form a sufficiently thick layer;
After the putty dries, the adhesive tape is removed;
Re-applying putty to finally fill the hole in the body;
The hole in the body is puttied both outside and inside. You should get a solid and neat patch;
The dried surface should make a dull sound when tapped;
Leveling the patch with coarse sandpaper, grit 80 or 120. In this case, special equipment can be used, for example, an air machine to obtain a more even surface of the formed patch;
Application of a universal putty composition and again - sanding;
Cleaning the working area from dirt and dust, pasting it around the perimeter with adhesive tape;
Applying primer first, then paint;
The next step is to cover the repaired area with varnish;
The final chord is the polishing of the repaired area.

If you look closely, then corrosion repair without welding will be noticeable on the body. However, this method of solving the problem requires little cost, even an inexperienced car owner can cope with the work. Hole puttying can be used only with minor damage to the body.

If the corrosion of the body is removed with a mesh and putty, the duration of the patch is from one to two years.

The method is used only in emergency cases: urgent inspection or preparation of the car for sale. If the car is expensive and the owner is not going to change it, it is better to entrust the work to car service professionals. And one more important detail - if corrosion has affected most of the car body, the expensive part will have to be replaced with a new one.

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You would be happy to cut costs, but is it possible to do without a car in our time!?

But there is a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! More about this at the link.

KuzovSpec.ru

How to repair holes in a car body yourself

Stages of repairing body holes

Alternative options for repairing holes in the body

PokraskaMashin.ru

Body damage repair without welding

Restoring the integrity and appearance of a vehicle using welding is often not economically viable and sometimes impossible or unreliable. Then apply methods of body repair without welding. It is not recommended to restore load-bearing elements in this way, especially on your own.

Non-welding repair methods

Almost all body work without the use of welding is classified as non-professional. They are not the result of any developments in this area, they are based on the use of the properties of certain materials and substances, they do not have a clear technology that has been tested and regulated by the relevant institutions, organizations, standards and state standards. This is the fruit of folk wisdom and ingenuity of domestic craftsmen, initiated by the specific conditions of our life. For example, in Europe it would never occur to anyone to try to repair a damaged body part or a broken car - they are simply replaced with new ones. These methods are focused, first of all, on the elimination of through damage to the front surfaces and the bottom of the car.

General requirements, rules are as follows. If necessary, cut or expand the damaged area using a grinder. The repaired area is cleaned of paint, rust, dirt. Treated with anticorrosive or zinc, degreased. After sealing the hole at the repair site, a surface of the desired configuration is formed; if necessary, paint auto-putty is used. Then prepare the body for painting.

Puttying

Use putty with fiberglass. It is of the following types:

with small glass fibers;
with average;
with the big ones.

To seal through damage, a composition with large fibers is used. The method is suitable for small holes or when significant damage is located in the region of constructive "pockets" that protect large masses of putty from shedding (for example, the front of the hood above the radiator grille). To fix the composition during work, you can use linings that are installed on the reverse side of the damage. Puttying is the most unreliable way. They are used mainly as a last resort for urgent repairs and when there are no other alternatives.

Before starting work, the cleaned metal of the body is primed. When mixing putty with hardener, bubbles should be avoided. The composition is first smeared inside, and then laid on top. When the damage is significant, the work is carried out in several stages. Allow one layer to dry, then apply the next. Drying occurs naturally.

The use of aluminum mesh makes it possible to repair more significant damage. It is applied to the hole and fixed with tape. At the end of the work, the adhesive tape is removed.

fiberglass and glue

For more serious damage, use fiberglass and adhesive, which is prepared from epoxy or polyester resin. Fiberglass is used to reinforce the patch. This method is more reliable than the previous one and also requires preliminary priming.

Several overlays are cut out of fiberglass according to the shape of the hole. The size of the first one provides overlapping damage by 2 cm. Subsequent pieces of fiberglass are larger than the previous ones, the latter completely covers the prepared bare metal of the repaired area.

The pads are impregnated with glue and installed, or applied to the damaged surface with glue applied in ascending order of size. To prevent the fabric from sagging during work, with large holes, linings are installed. At the end of the work, the resin is given time to dry and grab. The method is suitable for small lesions.

Soldering

Used to repair large damage. A patch made of a sheet of metal is pressed tightly against the body, the connection to which is made with solder. Flux is used to ensure solder strength. This method is quite simple to implement and even a beginner can do it; in terms of reliability - something between welding and gluing. Solder and flux are selected based on the alloys of the metals being joined. Perform soldering with a high power electric soldering iron.

Main disadvantages:

relatively high cost (due to the high price of solder);
the connection is not strong enough (welding is much more reliable).

The metal patch should completely cover the hole. Before starting work, the soldering points on the lining and the body are tinned (they are treated with solder with flux using a soldering iron). The larger the area of tinning and, accordingly, soldering, the more reliable the connection. If the soldered pad protrudes strongly, then it is leveled on the surface of the car part with a hammer. The resulting dent is sealed with putty.

It happens that before painting a car, many motorists come across the same unpleasant problem. After removing several layers, through holes in the car body appear before them. Of course, many of you will immediately go to the bodybuilder, who, without much effort, for a considerable fee, will repair the “hole”.

However, there are other options. For example, try to do this work with your own hands? I propose to choose the second option, and try to repair the extra hole. If, of course, we are talking about a huge hole, then, of course, it would be better to seek help from a specialist. But if the hole in the body is no larger than a matchbox, as, for example, in my case, then it makes sense to try to fix the problem yourself. You can fix the problem in two ways.

First way

In the first option, everything is quite simple, but it has some drawbacks. Its principle is to close the “hole” with putty with the addition of fiberglass. This method is quite simple and fast, but it does not solve the problem for long, since water, sooner or later, will help the bottom to begin to bubble under the new coating. Therefore, I advise you to use the second method.

Second way

The second option is based on sealing the hole with a metal patch. To do this, it is necessary to cut the necessary piece from any metal, while it must completely cover the hole. After that, you need to solder this patch with a powerful soldering iron and flux.

Before you start soldering, you should thoroughly irradiate all the edges of the patch, after soldering, do not forget to rinse all treated areas with flux. You should also irradiate the surface itself, on which you will solder the patch.

After soldering, be sure to check if the patch is protruding too much. If it still protrudes, you need to make a few precise light blows with a hammer until the patch is flush with the surface and even slightly lower. After a small dip is formed, the first stage can be considered completed. The dent will be leveled with putty.

When applying putty, remember that its thickness should not be more than 3 mm

After sealing, it is necessary to start preparing the surface for puttying. To do this, you will need paper like Mirka, or 3M with an abrasive size of about 120.

In order for the putty to take well, it is necessary to apply the so-called adhesive risk in a circular motion. At the end of the preparatory work, take a rag, previously moistened with White Spirit, and clean all sanded surfaces from dirt, dust and grease.

We prime

The next step, as you know, will be a primer. It is important to understand that the metal surface is highly oxidized and rusty, so try to apply a coat of primer to the surface as soon as possible. I advise you to use two types of primer for this: two-component acrylic and phosphate. The phosphate layer should be applied in a thin layer directly onto the metal. Please note that you need to do this in one pass, it dries very quickly. After that, on the dried first layer, apply the next, this time acrylic two-component. This layer, unlike the phosphate layer, must be applied 2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 minutes.