Rear hub: functions and replacement instructions. What is a rear wheel bearing, how does it work and how to replace it? Dismantling the rear hub VAZ 2110

An important part of the chassis of the car is the wheel hub. For its free rotation on the axis, a bearing is placed in it. During operation, it wears out and it becomes necessary to replace the wheel bearing. A signal that the wheel bearing is worn out can be a crunch, vibration and deviation of the car from the course when driving in a straight line.

Why a bearing in a hub

A rim or wheel rim is attached to the hub flange. It also installs elements of the brake system. If the wheels attached to the hub are driving, it acts as part of the car transmission. The front swivel wheel hub is a steering element. The diameter of the hub is much larger than that of its inner hole, where the bearing is pressed. Its length usually exceeds the diameter of this hole.

The high strength and design of the hub does not require frequent replacement. At the same time, the replacement of the wheel bearing pressed into it should be done more often. This part holds together with other similar bearings the weight of the machine, ensuring the rotation of the wheels. In the hubs of driven axles that do not experience heavy loads, tapered single-row bearings are usually used. For the leading ones, tapered bearings with two rows are used, which can withstand twice the load than single row ones.

Wheel bearings have a closed design, which means that they can be used until they are almost completely worn out. They do not need to be lubricated. However, the timely replacement of the wheel bearing is necessary, first of all, because it provides safe movement, under the influence of serious radial and lateral loads.

When to change a bearing

The wheel bearing directly affects the vehicle's ability to move confidently on the road without endangering people in and outside the car. If at least one of these bearings fails, there is a risk of uncontrollability of the car and an emergency. In order to understand in time whether a wheel bearing needs to be replaced, you should shake each wheel with both hands every couple of weeks to detect play or extraneous sounds.

Sure signs that the wheel bearing needs to be replaced are:

• identification of a noticeable backlash in the wheel when it sways in different planes;
• the appearance during the movement of a monotonous hum emanating from the wheel;
• howling or noise that disappears when turning sharply;
• hot to the touch hub or its cap.

The reasons for such phenomena may be loss of lubrication due to high temperatures, washing out if the car often overcomes water obstacles. Fine sand and dust can get into the bearing housing and have an abrasive effect.

In any case, it is worth thinking about how to change the wheel bearing. After all, its wear also affects the beating of the steering wheel when the car is moving. Usually this procedure is carried out after 110-130 thousand km. run. However, this figure may vary depending on the operating conditions of the machine and its driving style. It is believed that every fourth car with a mileage of over a hundred thousand kilometers requires special attention to the condition of such bearings. In order to prevent problems with them, it should be a rule for car owners to regularly diagnose wheel bearings on their own or using the services of a car service.

At the same time, it is important to remember that attempts to repair it yourself or how to replace the hub bearing cheaper will not lead to anything good, since it cannot be repaired. When it fails, it just needs to be replaced.

What you need to replace a wheel bearing

To replace the wheel bearing with your own hands, you need to be extremely careful and do not overestimate your strength. In STO conditions, this is much easier and faster to do. Most of these enterprises employ experienced craftsmen who use professional tools to knock the bearing out of the hub.

Having decided to carry out the work on your own, it is necessary to answer the question of how to remove the wheel bearing and how to replace it with a new one.

To do this, you need to prepare:

• a new bearing, preferably of European production, retaining rings and a hub nut;
• hub diagram and detailed instructions for the work;
• a repair room with a vice and good lighting of the repaired unit;
• special tool for removing the bearing;
• a set of keys and heads with a collar;
• round-nose pliers, which may be needed to remove the retaining ring;
• lubricant (lithol);
• a piece of pipe up to a meter long as a lever.

Before starting work, you should consider in detail how best to remove the wheel bearing. When doing this for the first time, it is better to invite an assistant. The wheel bearing puller deserves special attention in preparation. With it, you can carefully remove the bearing without damaging the wheel and other parts of the machine. It is better to familiarize yourself with its device and principle of operation in advance. Typically, such a wheel bearing puller has a fairly simple device.

It is based on a metal rod and two or three metal paws connected to it. Their ends are bent inward. The paws are easy to move along the rod for easy grip. They can be rotated to remove the bearing or other parts. Using the clamps included in the kit, a damaged bearing can be removed more easily. To remove sticky bearings at the service station, both a mechanical and a hydraulic puller can be used to remove the wheel bearing. Working with a bearing puller requires care and accuracy. Here, a sledgehammer and a drift are unacceptable, because. the seat on the hub may be damaged.

Replacing the front wheel bearing

When deciding how to replace the front wheel bearing, you should consider its location. After all, it is the front suspension that is the main part that affects the handling of the car. Therefore, it is better to do this work using a puller that helps to remove such a bearing without any problems. First of all, you need to fix the car in a position convenient for work. Put in first gear and place stops under the wheels, tighten the handbrake.

Replacing a front wheel bearing requires careful preparation of the work area. You should carefully examine the parts that you have to deal with, figure out how best to remove the bearing, and prepare the necessary tools. It should be taken into account that two bearings can be installed on the front hubs of the driving wheels.

To replace the hub bearing on the front wheel, you must:

1. Using a screwdriver, remove the bearing cap from the front wheel and unlock and loosen the hub nut.
2. Hang the wheel.
3. Tie the caliper to the suspension part to prevent it from hanging on the front brake hose. After that, wring it out with a screwdriver and remove it from the steering knuckle.
4. Remove the brake disc bolts from the hub and remove.
5. Use a screwdriver to pry off the retaining ring and remove.
6. Using a puller, press out the wheel bearing.
7. Inspect the bearing seat, clean it from corrosion and dirt, old grease, apply new grease.
8. The new bearing, without allowing it to be warped, is pressed into the hub using a puller.
9. Replace retaining ring.
10. Secure the bearing to the axle with a thrust washer and nut.
11. Tighten the nut to adjust the rotation of the wheel to eliminate play.

After completing the work, make a test drive to check for noise in the bearing. After that, once again check the presence of play in the steering. There are other ways to replace the front wheel bearing. The knocking method can be used by cutting a pipe of a suitable diameter, heating the hub, etc. They require attention and care.

Experienced car mechanics know how to replace a rear wheel bearing. This procedure is much easier than when replacing the front. The hubs of these bearings on the rear independent suspension are almost the same as the front ones. The only difference is the lack of a steering knuckle. The type of bearing may vary depending on the machine model.

Replacing the rear wheel bearing

Before replacing the bearing on the rear hub, you must, as usual, remove the wheel and brake drum, unscrew the hub nut. Brake pads can not be touched. After removing the hub using a puller, remove the bearing from the seat. The replacement of the rear wheel bearing is carried out after a careful examination of the hole in which it was located, cleaning it, and removing possible burrs.

The hub must be cleaned of dust and dirt, old grease. The rear wheel bearing should only be replaced after these procedures have been completed and the bearing seat has been lubricated with lithol. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing to the stop and install the retaining ring. Mount the entire assembly in reverse order. Fill the bearing seat generously with grease. Close it with a plug planted on the sealant.

Replacing wheel bearings on different vehicles may vary. Modern vehicles may be equipped with various easily damaged electronic devices that must be removed when replacing a bearing. Therefore, if you are not a highly qualified car mechanic, it is better to entrust this work to car service masters.

It is also worth doing the collapse of the convergence after replacing the wheel bearing. The set camber will improve the car's road holding on turns and straight lines, remove vibration, as well as reduce tire wear and fuel consumption. Vibration can also occur due to a crookedly inserted bearing. To eliminate it, you need to knock out the bearing again and check the tightness of the wheel nuts.

As a rule, the replacement of the rear wheel bearing of the VAZ 2110 is not carried out so often. The service life should be equal to a relatively large mileage (at least 100 thousand km).
But due to the condition of modern roads, this period is significantly reduced, as a result, an early replacement of the rear hub bearing of the VAZ 2110 will be required.

When a Part Needs to be Replaced

If you hear a noise, rumble or "whine" from the rear that gets louder when cornering, it's time to check the rear hubs.
Modern verification methods are quite simple:

• having locked the wheel diagonally - opposite from the jacking point, you need to hang out the two rear wheels in turn.

Note! Why each separately? Often errors are made with the identification of the side of the noise, in addition, it often becomes necessary to replace two bearings at once.

• the raised wheel must be rotated as much as possible. If extraneous sounds are heard, similar to a hum, in any case, one cannot do without replacing the part;

• if there are still some doubts, you can view the lateral play. You need to take the wheel by the edges and roll it away from you - towards you.
  With a bad bearing, you will feel the movement of the wheel on its axis.

Today, stores sell individual bearings and assembled hubs. In fact, there is no point in buying an assembled assembly (except in individual cases), since replacing a bearing is not as difficult as it first seems.

Detailed instructions for replacing the rear wheel bearing

So:

• The car is stopped in front.
• Wheel bolts break.
• The nut breaks off in the center of the hub, while you must first remove the cap.
• The required side is jacked up, "tragus" are set up.
• The wheel is removed.
• The installation site is filled with WD-40 or other special liquids.

Note! In this situation, you can use diesel fuel or any brake fluid.

• The guide bolts are unscrewed, which are recommended to be tapped with a hammer first.

• Carefully remove the brake drum. In case of difficult removal, it is required to screw special bolts into the threads on this drum, a stretch is made and slightly knocked out with a hammer.
  Usually such measures give positive results.

Note! You can buy specialized drum pullers, but this is the last option when you can’t do anything on your own.

• The central nut is completely unscrewed. Of course, you can unscrew it immediately and remove the hub, wheel and drum together, but in this case there will be a high risk of violation.

• The hub is tightening. If one of the bearing races remains on the axis, you need to move it from its place with the help of a puller or sharpened chisels.
• The axle is inspected for traces of bearing rotation; if such traces are present, the hub assembly will need to be replaced.
• The brake cylinder is evaluated for leakage, and the pads for wear.
• The retaining ring is removed from the hub using round-nose pliers or screwdrivers.
• The edge must be cleaned of rust, after which it must be moistened with WD-40 or a similar liquid that is at hand.

• There are three ways to press out the bearing: using a special press, a puller or a heavy hammer (sledgehammer). Perhaps the third method will seem aggressive, but most of the masters at the service station prefer it, so we will consider it in more detail.
• The hub is securely mounted on a hard surface, and through the mandrel with a few blows of a hammer or sledgehammer, the bearing is displaced from its place. After that, the hub is installed on a vise.

Note! There must be a stop for the workpiece and a place for the bearing to rebound.

• A couple more blows are made, after which the bearing comes out.

• The seating surface for the bearing must be carefully inspected, sanded with existing rust and lubricated with plain engine oil.
• The purchased bearing must be twisted using a selected bolt through a washer, which must be selected in accordance with the inner races. Since the bearings are double row, they will have to be disassembled during installation.
• The hub is mounted on a solid surface.
• A twisted bearing is installed on top, only first you need to lubricate its installed plane with oil.
• The floor with a kilogram hammer slightly aligns the element in the plane.
• A suitable mandrel is taken, for example, a pry bar, which is hit on the part to press the bearing.

Note! The main thing is not to apply strong blows, since the pressing will be uneven.

• When the bearing has gone about half way, you can hit harder.
• Reaching the cut off part of the hub, you need to use the old clip as a mandrel.

Note! Do not apply strong blows, as it is a high-carbon metal that can burst.

• You need to finish it all the way, after which a stopper is installed, if it is not possible to install the last element normally, then most likely the bearing was not completely finished off.

Note! The stopper should spring without difficulty in the groove.

Bearing assembly procedure

So:

• Now it's time for assembly, the hub is put on the axle, while you need to remove the bolt used to tie the clip.

• The central nut is twisted and tightened as much as possible. In this case, the installation of a new nut is implied.
  We also put a thrust washer.
• The previously removed brake drum with the wheel is put on and screwed.
• The rotation is evaluated, if there is no noise, then all actions have been performed correctly. The car is removed from the jack.
• The wheel with the central nut is tightened.
• The hub nuts are closed and the wheels are securely tightened.

The wheel bearing is one of the most important components of the running gear of a car. Sooner or later, every car owner faces the question of the need to replace this element due to its failure or the end of its service life. You should figure out how to diagnose a malfunction of the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ-2110 and replace it correctly.

The manufacturer recommends changing these parts every 100 thousand kilometers traveled by the car, but only in rare cases do they fully consume their resource. Much more often they come into a faulty state about 1.5-2 times faster. In many ways, the wear rate depends on the road conditions in which the car is operated, as well as on the driving style of its owner. Naturally, a lot depends on the quality of the bearing itself.

Symptoms

The wheel bearing has a large margin of safety, but since the loads constantly experienced by it during movement are very large, sooner or later it wears out to such an extent that it loses its efficiency. Tightening with the replacement of a faulty wheel bearing should not be done, as this threatens that it will fall apart while driving. This will inevitably lead to instant blocking of the wheel, which, when driving at a sufficiently high speed, very often becomes the cause of a serious accident.

Even if you are lucky not to get into an accident, operating the machine with a non-working hub bearing will gradually lead to the failure of the entire rack, and replacing it is a much more complicated and expensive process.

The malfunctioning condition of the wheel bearing can be judged by the appearance of extraneous sounds during movement - knocks or hums from the side where the faulty part is located, which after a while, if no measures are taken, turn into vibration, giving both to the steering wheel and to the body part . This sign is already fraught with a serious threat - if it comes to vibration, in the near future we can expect the collapse of the "killed" bearing with all the problems associated with it.

Diagnostic procedure

Self-checking the wheel bearing is carried out in the following order. It should, in turn, jacking up the left and right sides of the vehicle, spin the wheels.

Having found a wheel that makes a hum when rotating, it should be shaken in different directions. As a rule, backlash is quickly detected. In some cases this is caused by a loose hub nut. To exclude this possibility, it should be tightened with a torque wrench and locked. If the play and extraneous noise have not disappeared, the wheel bearing should be replaced.

Since the VAZ-2110 has been out of production for quite some time, it cannot be under warranty. This car is not equipped with too complex electronics, unlike many foreign cars. Therefore, having the right tool and some skills, you can replace the wheel bearing on the "top ten" yourself.

Selecting a new part

It is not difficult to buy a new wheel bearing now, but since the choice of any parts is very rich, it can be difficult to decide on the manufacturer. It can be advised to give preference to an element produced in Russia. The quality of bearings made in China is inferior to domestic ones, and you should refrain from buying them.

Replacement procedure

It should be noted that the hub nut is tightened very tightly, and it is difficult to move it. To facilitate this task, you can use a metal pipe as a lever. A chisel and pry bar may also come in handy - it's best to keep them nearby. It is very good if an experienced motorist helps to independently replace this element for the first time.

This procedure is performed in the following order. First of all, the car should be put in a garage equipped with a viewing hole. If this is not possible, then you need to find a flat area for repair work. Then turn on the first gear with the gearshift lever, and put wheel chocks under the front wheels (ordinary bricks will do). Having done this, using the “balloon” wrench, you should slightly loosen the wheel bolts and raise the side on which the wheel bearing will be changed with a jack.

Then the fixing bolts are unscrewed to the end, and the wheel is removed from the axle. The guide pins are unscrewed and the brake drum is removed.

If you can’t do it right away, you should take a hammer and, applying a small plank to the drum, knock it around the circumference.

If tapping does not work, you can try to wrap the pins in their place - sometimes the drum moves away after that. In the event that all methods are ineffective, the part must be dismantled with a puller, however, there is a serious risk of damage to it. If this happens, the brake drum will also need to be replaced with a new one.

The hub nut is unscrewed using a socket wrench and (if necessary) a metal pipe.

The hub nut is removed from the trunnion using a puller

You can try to remove the hub without a puller. To do this, you need to put the removed wheel back in place, and then pull it sharply (but you don’t need to be too zealous, otherwise the car will fall off the jack)

In case of luck, the bearing is removed together with the inner ring. If it remains in place, then in order to dismantle it, you need to use a small puller.

If the ring is stuck, then it must be moved with a chisel and a pry bar, and then use a tie rod.

The retaining ring is removed using special tongs or pliers, after which the anther is knocked off (it can not be removed if the bearing is dismantled by knocking out).

Then the bearing is pressed out (or simply knocked out).

The old lubricant should be removed by laying in its place a new one. Then a new bearing is pressed in (according to the rules, this should be done using a puller, but if it is not available, the outer race of the element to be replaced is also suitable).

A failed rear wheel bearing indicates a permanent problem, often. It comes from behind and does not disappear when driving in neutral. As bearing wear increases, this sound can increase more and more. The rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced.

This work can be done most quickly with the help of special tools (pullers). If they are not, then to achieve the goal, improvised materials should be used. Consider carrying out a bearing replacement with this slope.

Checking the rear wheel hub bearing

We hang the wheel on the bearing of which there are suspicions. We rotate it by hand. A wheel with a good bearing spins almost silently. A defective bearing gives itself out with noise and the sound "as if the balls are rolling in the bearing." The degree of noise and rolling depends on the degree of wear of the wheel bearing itself. For comparison, you can hang a wheel with a serviceable bearing and listen to what sound it rotates.

Required Tools

- An elongated head by 30 with a long collar, or a curved ring wrench of the same diameter (or a similar socket wrench, etc.)

For loosening the wheel nut.

— Thin chisel, center punch

For bending the jammed edge of the hub nut.

- Three-legged puller(not required)

To remove the hub from the wheel axle.

- Two-legged puller, or a special semicircular(not required)

For removing the bearing inner race from the wheel axle.

- Puller - pliers

For removing and installing retaining ring

- Puller for pressing the bearing out of the hub / pressing the bearing into the hub(not required)

- Open-end or any other key for 12(11, 8, 7 - depending on the type of pin)

For loosening the guide pins holding the brake drum.

- Key for 13 (14)

For loosening the parking brake adjusting nut.

rear wheel bearing for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 with nut

Preparatory work

Work is best done in a pit (inspection ditch), as it is more convenient. But if there is no hole, you can do without it.

- fixing the car, putting it on a flat area, in first gear, placing wheel chocks under the wheels.

- Under the bottom of the car, loosen the handbrake tightening nut.

If the car is not installed on a pit (inspection ditch), then to perform this operation, you will have to jack up one of the wheels, put a safety stop under the car and get to this very nut lying down.

The procedure for replacing the rear wheel hub bearing on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 vehicles and their modifications

- Remove the protective cap on the wheel hub

- Remove the dent on the side of the hub nut

Using a thin chisel or core and a hammer, straighten the jammed edge. For greater clarity, the wheel in the image has already been removed.

dent on the edge of the wheel nut

- Loosen the hub nut

To do this, use a 30 head with a long knob (or a special key) to unscrew the nut. You may have to apply considerable force and lengthen the key handle with a metal pipe, as it may boil or rust over time. Also, to prevent the wheel from spinning, in the passenger compartment, the assistant can press the brake pedal.

loosen the rear wheel hub nut

- Remove the wheel

We loosen the rear wheel mounting bolts, jack it up, substitute the safety stop, unscrew the bolts, remove the wheel.

- Remove the brake drum

With a key of 12 (11, 10, 8, 7 - there may be a different size of the pin), we unscrew the two guide pins that secure the brake drum. If they do not want to turn away, lightly tap them with a hammer.

unscrewing the two guide pins of the wheel disc on the brake drum

Since we have already loosened the parking brake, the brake drum should be removed without much difficulty. Hands rotate it left and right and at the same time pull it towards you. If it goes badly, we tap the drum in a circle from behind with a rubber mallet. This should help.

brake drum removed

- Finally unscrew the hub nut

We remove it and the washer under it.

- Remove the rear wheel hub with bearing

We install a three-legged puller on the hub and, turning its nut, pull it off the wheel axle.

removal of the rear wheel hub of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars using a puller

If there is no puller, we take the wheel, turn it over with its back side towards us and fasten it to the hub with wheel bolts. We wrap the bolts not completely, but several turns (it is desirable, of course, to use elongated bolts, but if they are not available, you can use regular ones). We will use the wheel as a reverse impact hammer. With a sharp movement we move it towards ourselves. If it was not possible to remove the hub from the axle at once, we perform this operation several times.

- Remove the bearing inner race from the wheel axle

You can use a two-legged or semi-circular puller, or you can simply put a large chisel behind the ring and hit it with a hammer. The ring will move along the axis, then it can be pry off with a mounting spatula or a large screwdriver and finally removed. If after working with a chisel there are nicks on the axis, we clean them with a small file.

Removing the rear wheel bearing inner race

- Remove the retaining ring that secures the bearing in the hub

We use a pliers for this. If it is not, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver.

Removing the retaining ring of the bearing in the hub using a puller

- Remove the bearing from the hub

Using a special puller, we squeeze it out of the hub housing. If there is no puller, we knock it out with a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. The diameter of the pipe must be equal to the diameter of the inner ring of the bearing. We strike at him.

knocking the old bearing out of the hub

- Clean and lightly lubricate the inside of the hub

- Press the new bearing into the hub

We do this with a puller or vise, or simply hammer it in there using a wooden spacer and hammering in a circle. At the final stage of this driving, you can use the old bearing as a spacer.

driving a new bearing into the hub

- We install a retaining ring in the groove on the hub

You can use a pliers for this, you can just use a screwdriver.

rear wheel bearing circlip

- Install the hub with the inserted bearing on the axle

mounting the hub onto the rear wheel axle

- We put on the washer and the hub nut.

install washer and hub nut

- Tightening the nut, press the hub all the way onto the axle.

tighten the nut

- Replace brake drum and wheel

- Finally tighten the hub nut with a torque of 186.3-225.6 N.m (19-23 kgf.m)

If there is no special key to determine the tightening torque, then we remember with what effort the nut was unscrewed, with approximately the same force it must be tightened.

The running system performs many functions, the main of which is ensuring the controllability of the car. To make the machine maneuverable and safe, it is equipped with a special steering knuckle and a hub between the axles. In order for them to be as reliable as possible, they include two bearings each. Both parts may differ in size and cost, but their design remains unchanged. Both the front and back are tapered. Although some motorists claim that the rear hub bearing is easier to operate than the front one. To finally find out the answer to this question, in today's article we will consider all the features of this part.

First, let's look at the design of this element. As we have already found out, the rear hub bearing has a conical shape. So - it is attached to the axis with a special thrust nut or washer. The more this part is tightened, the tighter the rollers will be pressed. Thanks to this, the possibility of backlash of the mechanism can be excluded.

So why is a rear hub bearing easier to operate?

The design of the front and rear parts are very similar to each other, but there are some differences. The fact is that the rear hub bearing does not have therefore it is easier to operate. Now several types of these parts are installed on cars:

• deep groove ball bearings (most often for machines with dependent suspension);
• conical (for independent).

The first mechanisms differ from the second ones in that they do not have the ability to adjust the degree of pressing the rollers to the clips. They are much cheaper, and you can buy them absolutely in any town.

Why does a rear wheel bearing fail?

It often happens that this part fails due to road dust that has got into its body. This can be due to leaking oil, but most often it happens due to water getting onto the hub. Well, no one is safe from hitting a puddle. So it turns out that it’s best to have a couple more such details in your trunk so that at one fine moment you don’t have to go home on a tow truck. But having a set of new parts with you is half the battle. You also need to know how to change the rear wheel bearing. Therefore, below we will give a small instruction on the removal and installation of this part.

rear wheel - step by step process

First, remove the protective cap of the hub fastening nut and lower the tightening of the wheel bolts and the mechanism itself. After that, we take a jack and raise the car by 5-10 centimeters. In this case, do not forget about additional supports. Next, turn on the first gear and put the substrate under the front wheels. Then remove the wheel and pads. Next, using a puller, we dismantle the hub from the trunnion and the inner race of the bearing. The next step is to remove the retaining ring and then the bearing itself. All mechanisms are thoroughly washed, and a new part is pressed into the hub. The rear wheel bearing is installed in the reverse order.