Means for cleaning the car cooling system. Autochemistry for the cooling system

Untimely replacement of the coolant or the use of water as such leads to a large amount of deposits inside the radiator and pipes. However, even with proper operation, various contaminants appear over time inside the cooling system. For this reason, it should be washed periodically.

A sign that the system needs to be flushed is a rapid loss of coolant properties. Passing through contaminated channels, even fresh antifreeze or antifreeze rapidly darken. The engine then starts to overheat more often.

In this situation, a complete replacement of the coolant will not help. It will only delay the problem. In addition, the cost of such a solution is too high. The best option is to determine how and how to flush the engine cooling system.

How to flush the engine cooling system

To flush the cooling system, use homemade and special products. Home remedies include:

• lemon acid;
• vinegar;
• milk serum;
• fanta.

Each of these products has a different degree of cleansing effect. So, washing with citric acid or vinegar will not solve the problem with scale and a lot of dirt. But acids are great for rust in the system. Fanta proved to be an excellent remedy: it also contains a large amount of citric acid.

Whey cleanses the system quickly and effectively. The only nuance of its use as a cleaning agent is the need for repeated preliminary filtering.

As for special tools, their wide range is presented in auto chemical goods stores. Conventionally, they are divided into four groups:

1. Group of neutral liquids. Their chemical composition does not contain aggressive acids and alkalis. Such liquids are used for preventive purposes.
2. A group of acidic liquids. These products are designed to remove rust.
3. Group of alkaline liquids. They are used for descaling.
4. Universal cleaners. They contain both acids and alkaline compounds. Thanks to this, all types of contaminants are cleaned.

In fact, only universal cleaning compounds cannot be made at home. Otherwise, there is no need to purchase special tools. The result from their use will be the same as from home.

An important nuance: only one type of product can be used to flush the system. You also need to observe the proportions, do not make too much concentration. System elements made of plastic or rubber can be easily damaged by aggressive acids or alkalis.

Gentle flushing of the engine cooling system

In addition to the tools described above, not so long ago an innovative product appeared on sale. They call it a soft flush of the engine cooling system.

The principle of operation of this tool is based on its unusual chemical composition. This washing liquid does not contain acids or alkalis in principle, that is, it has a neutral acid-base balance. The system of catalysts in its composition slowly dissolves contaminants without harm to the cooling system.

Soft flushes are presented in auto chemical goods stores in two forms:

• special additives;
• coolant concentrates.

Such funds are poured into the cooling system and operate the car, as before. After several thousand kilometers, the cooling system will be completely cleaned. From this point on, you can completely change the coolant.

Cleaning the radiator from contaminants with a gentle flush is an effective and harmless way. Its only drawback is the relatively long cleaning time.

Washing agents

Most modern motorists prefer to purchase a ready-made flushing agent in the store, rather than bother with solutions and proportions. Popular liquids in the Russian auto chemical goods market are represented by three brands:

• "Laurel";
• Liqui Moly;
• Hi Gear.

Briefly about each of them. The most popular is Lavr with LAVR Radiator Flush Classic. Lavr is a Russian manufacturer of auto chemicals, surprisingly successful and at the same time inexpensive. It is the combination of "price - quality" that attracts buyers of this product.

Reviews on the forums of motorists about this tool are overwhelmingly good. A half-liter bottle of this liquid is enough for a complete cleansing of the entire cooling system. The cleaning procedure takes an average of about an hour.

Liqui Moly manufactures LIQUI MOLY Kuhler-Reiniger, which is the soft wash described above. Despite the gentle composition, it cleans the system pretty quickly. The whole procedure takes 45 minutes.

The properties declared by the manufacturer are present in full. This tool really copes with all types of pollution. At the same time, it cleans without damaging any fragile parts of the system.

And finally, Hi-Gear with Radiator Flush - 7 minute. Based on the name, it can be understood that this flush is designed for the fastest possible cleaning. Like LIQUI MOLY Kuhler-Reiniger, it does not contain aggressive substances.

All of these tools are reliable and easy to use. They improve the efficiency of the cooling system and also contain a corrosion inhibitor.

How to flush a radiator without removing it

It often happens that there is simply no time to remove the radiator. There is nothing to worry about: you can rinse it well without removing it. This should be done in two stages, washing from the outside and from the inside.

In order to flush the radiator from the outside, you need to remove the protective grille. After that, numerous contaminants are first removed with a Karcher or a compressor, and then with a brush with gasoline. On this external cleaning can be considered finished.

After cleaning the outside, move on to the inside. To do this, use any of the flushing fluids listed above. First, the spent coolant is completely drained from the cooling system. After that, flushing is poured and the machine runs for the period of time indicated by the instructions at idle. On average, this is about 30 minutes.

The flushing fluid should be drained in the same way as the used coolant. After that, fresh coolant is poured into the system, and protection is put on the radiator.

The following procedures should be carried out, adhering to the safety rules:

• use protective gloves and goggles;
• drain the fluid after the engine has cooled down.

Conclusion

Flushing the cooling system is a mandatory and simple procedure. Every car owner can do it at home. The choice of means for cleaning the cooling system is wide, and their cost is very affordable.

The cooling system is the most important element of the engine; the overall performance and durability of the internal combustion engine directly depends on its condition. Why is it so important to flush the cooling system? Because, regardless of whether water or antifreeze is poured into it, rust, scale and other deposits collect inside the channels of the cooling jacket.

They do not completely block the channels and pipes, but over time, heat transfer begins to deteriorate, the engine may overheat. And this is fraught with a very expensive overhaul.

Overheating has a detrimental effect on all parts of the car engine, so the driver must do everything to prevent it. Having detailed information on how to flush the car's cooling system, you can ensure the reliable functioning of all mechanisms washed with antifreeze.

Why the engine cooling system gets dirty: reasons

If the driver has to use ordinary liquid from a water supply system, a well or a well instead of antifreeze and distilled water, over time, the salts dissolved in it form scale.

Antifreeze and antifreeze can also cause problems if not changed on time. During operation, the additives that make up their composition and protect the cooling system from corrosion decompose and settle on the inner walls. In critical cases, deposits such as scale from water can almost completely clog fine channels.

foreign impurities. If the radiator leak was eliminated by pouring sealant into it, over time it will pollute the CO, which will be visible to the naked eye.

Mixing antifreezes of incompatible types often leads to precipitation of many components of these fluids.

What is flushing for?

Many motorists, up to a certain point, do not think about the need to clean the engine cooling system, but only if necessary add antifreeze to the required level. But over time, this approach ceases to work properly.

The liquid in the system becomes cloudy, and scale or sediment forms on the internal surfaces of the expansion tank, radiator and other elements from the decomposed components of antifreeze or antifreeze.

Deposits and exhaust fluid interfere with the normal cooling of the power unit. Although the system requires cleaning not only from the inside. There are different types of car CO pollution:

Clogging of the radiator with sand, dust, insects, road dirt, leaves and poplar fluff. The problem is eliminated by flushing the radiator with a special high-pressure apparatus. At the same time, water under pressure must flow in such a way as not to bend the honeycombs and not impair their heat transfer.

Internal contamination with rust, deposits of old antifreeze, engine oil, if overheating occurred before. In the latter case, when an oil emulsion is observed in the expansion tank or radiator, it is usually not possible to get off with a replacement of the coolant, but it is necessary to find the causes of the problem and at least replace the cylinder head gasket if it has been damaged.

When servicing a CO car, it is strongly not recommended to unscrew the radiator cap if the engine has just been turned off and it has not yet had time to cool down.

When and how often to flush the engine cooling system

On new cars, almost every malfunction has a warning light on the dashboard, which notifies you of current problems in the car. There is one for the cooling system.

It lights up when the antifreeze level drops below the acceptable level, when it is time to change it, or when other problems occur. In addition, there are other signs by which you can determine that the cooling system needs to be flushed:

• frequent engine overheating;
• problems in the operation of the coolant pump;
• incorrect operation of the thermostat;
• increased engine temperature;
• frequent switching on of the additional cooling fan.

Most often, drivers notice problems with the cooling system by overheating the engine. Another obvious sign is a change in the color of the antifreeze. With severe contamination of the system, it becomes dark, almost brown.

Is it possible to do it yourself?

If there is financial opportunity and there are no significant queues at a professional service center, this procedure is recommended to be performed at a service station. But not in all cases this decision is considered the most justified.

If necessary, you can flush the cooling system and replace the antifreeze on your own, saving on paying for the work of the masters.

How to flush the cooling system

All liquids for flushing the radiator and cooling system can be divided into two groups: "folk" and special. Most often, people use folk remedies, these include:

• lemon acid;
• acetic acid;
• serum or lactic acid.

Most often, it is because of the availability that citric or acetic acid is used. With their help, you can qualitatively flush the radiator or immediately the entire cooling system of the car.

The acid will be especially effective if water was previously poured into the engine, and not a full-fledged antifreeze, since the acid can easily cope with scale or rust deposits. But with significant pollution, she will not be able to deal with.

How to flush the radiator and the entire cooling system

Rinsing can be done with ordinary, distilled or acidified water, as well as cleaning agents.

Water

Directly for removing scale and deposits, it is not the best tool. But in the absence of other options, this one will do. At the same time, the old liquid is drained, water is poured in and the engine is allowed to run for about 10-15 minutes until it warms up and the thermostat activates a large cooling circle, including a radiator.

Then, a few minutes after stopping the internal combustion engine, the contents are drained and the procedure is repeated one or more times until the liquid becomes clear.

For the final rinse, it is advisable to use distilled or boiled and settled water. It should not be too cold, especially in the case of forced "hot" engines that have a cylinder head and an aluminum cylinder block.

The disadvantage of this method is the low efficiency of removing contaminants and the likelihood of scale formation.

acidified water

It is used when fragments of scale are found in the drained liquid, which interferes with the removal of heat from hot parts. In this case, ordinary water will not help. To get rid of scale, you will need to prepare a solution with the addition of one specific substance:

Acetic acid

The solution is created by mixing 0.5 liters of vinegar (9%) per 10 liters of distilled water.

Regular caustic soda

This is one of the most accessible alkalis. It can only be used to clean cast iron blocks and cylinder heads and copper radiators.

Such a solution will corrode the surface of aluminum parts. To prepare a solution, 50 g of soda is stirred in 1 liter of pure distilled water.

Lactic or citric acid

At the same time, 20 grams of citric acid is diluted in 10 liters of water. In the case of lactic acid, 1 liter of concentrate (36%) is diluted in 5 liters of water. You should get a 6% solution.

If there is a lot of deposits in the system, then more acid can be added. But this ratio is considered optimal.

Acid should not be excessive, so that it does not damage rubber and plastic parts. The solution must be poured into the system and the engine warmed up. It should remain in the motor for 2-3 hours.

During this time, you will need to warm it up a few more times. After that, the procedure must be repeated, and at the end, rinse with CO with distilled water.

Special flushing liquids

There are alternative ways to effectively deal with chemical deposits inside the cooling system. Manufacturers of automotive chemicals have long been offering customers specialized products for flushing the engine cooling system.

This approach is considered the most optimal. Today you can find compositions to eliminate pollution of various types. Scale is better removed with acidic solutions that separate it from the walls. Fat and organic fragments will help to remove alkali.

But you should not mix these components, because they neutralize each other's actions.

They have a very budgetary cost and are available to every car owner. All means for cleaning the engine cooling system are divided into several groups:

• Neutral. They do not contain aggressive substances, so they will not be able to cope with any deposits. Used for preventive purposes.
• Acid. Contains chemically active substances that can break down a variety of inorganic deposits.
• Alkaline. Made on the basis of alkalis, effective against organic deposits in the cooling system.
• Two-piece. They are made using the previous two bases and are a universal cleaner that is suitable for cleaning any cooling system, regardless of whether water or antifreeze was used there.

Important! You should not use two different cleaning agents at once, as they can react with each other and either neutralize the positive properties of each other, or begin to negatively affect the plastic and rubber elements of the cooling system.

Alkaline and acid formulations are used infrequently, and in their pure form it is not easy to find them. The fact is that they corrode not only pollution, but also plastic and rubber pipes. After working with them, the owner will need to neutralize their negative impact and repeatedly flush.

Two-component formulations are quite popular among car owners. They are supplied in kits with acidic and additionally alkaline solutions. They take turns pouring into the radiator. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for this.

Neutral products do not contain aggressive components. Depending on the composition, they can be used both for preventive cleaning and for getting rid of serious deposits.

The composition of solutions of complex action often includes:

• Cleaning agent.
• corrosion inhibitors.
• Means for processing nozzles and tubes made of plastic and rubber.
• Dispersants that prevent loose dirt particles from re-adhering to the surface.
• Components to protect the system from the influence of acids and alkalis.

If possible, in order to flush the cooling system of a car engine, it is worth using special compounds, but in their absence, ordinary water, preferably acidified and distilled, will help the driver.

How to flush the engine cooling system with your own hands

There is nothing complicated in this matter, the main thing is to immediately decide on the flushing fluid. If specialized chemistry is used, then it is enough to follow the instructions. With folk remedies, everything is more complicated.

But first of all, you should start by draining the old coolant. To do this, you will need to use special drain holes. This is usually a faucet on the radiator and one or two drain bolts on the engine block. Both of them must be unscrewed to drain all the fluid from the block.

After that, you need to close all the drain holes back and use the flush. If you decide to use citric acid, then it must be diluted in water and poured into the system, filling it completely.

Then you need to start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. This will allow the acid to react with the deposits and "eat away" them. It should also be drained and flushed again with distilled water. This can be done in a flow way without closing the drain holes - the water will simply drain.

There are also times when you need to flush the radiator separately. This may be required when it is removed during repairs, or when the cooling system is so badly contaminated that it cannot be avoided.

The easiest way to flush a removed radiator is to insert a water hose into one of the holes and force pressurized water through it. You can pour a special liquid or the same citric acid into it and clog it. In a day it will be clean from the inside.

If you don’t want to remove the radiator from the car, but you need to rinse it, then there is a way out of this situation. It is necessary to drain the old coolant, and then disconnect all pipes from the radiator, then plug all the holes and fill in the flushing fluid.

At the finish, you should also not forget to rinse the radiator with water. And upon completion of all manipulations, you only need to fill in new antifreeze in order to avoid an early clogging of the clogging system.

Flushing the engine cooling system is one of the key procedures for keeping a car running, but most motorists often neglect this not too laborious process.

This can lead to disastrous consequences: the radiator device is subject not only to external pollution - it can also become clogged from the inside. Rust, grease and oil deposits, antifreeze decomposition products, scale formed when washing with non-distilled water - all this can cause pollution, and, as a result, a drop in radiator performance.

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Why and how often do you need to flush?

Radiator failure leads to engine failure and vehicle failure. Therefore, keeping the radiator clean will help both keep the engine in proper condition and avoid costly repairs or even replacements. This process may take some time, but it is not difficult. There is a sufficient amount of textual materials and videos on how to properly and safely carry it out.

Flushing with a complete replacement of antifreeze or other coolant is recommended to be done on average once every 2 years, adjusted for the make and manufacturer of the car, as well as its service life. This frequency helps prevent the accumulation of decomposition products of coolants and rust in the system.

Untimely flushing of the cooling system can lead to engine damage.

What can be washed?

Now there is a wide choice of cleaning products. The most accessible of them is water. However, it is also the least suitable remedy. Due to the salts that are in the composition of the water in a dissolved state, scale may form after washing, which in the future will cause contamination and repeated cleaning. For this reason, it is worth using only distilled or, in extreme cases, boiled water.

Special flushing liquids

The range of cleaning liquids of various composition and concentration is quite extensive. Most of them allow you to qualitatively clean the engine cooling system. But the choice of means should also be taken seriously, since substances of different composition are needed to remove different types of dirt.

Cleaning products can be divided into 4 categories:

• Neutral - do not contain aggressive components, are less effective in cleaning the cooling system than other liquids, and they are most often used for preventive purposes.
• Acid - almost never found in its pure form due to their extreme aggressiveness to the details of the system. Acidic flushing liquids are well suited for neutralizing scale and inorganic formations.
• Alkaline - like the previous category of substances, they are not found in an undiluted state. Effectively remove organic contaminants.
• Two-component They contain both acid and alkali. Consistently poured into the system and well cleaned it from all types of pollution.

Coolant racks

It is better not to use two different products at the same time, since acid and alkali are neutralized when interacting, which may not only not bring the expected result, but also cause a malfunction. Also, do not use substances with a high concentration of acids or alkalis, as they can damage rubber and plastic parts.

Lemon acid

One of the popular "improvised" cleaning products is a solution of citric acid. With the right proportions, it copes well with scale inside the radiator and does not damage rubber components. The optimal ratio is considered to be 100 g of acid per 1 liter of water.

Citric acid can be replaced with whey. It contains a sufficient concentration of lactic acid for effective and gentle cleaning. Also, whey washing is more gentle on non-metallic parts of the radiator.

As in the case of compositions specifically designed for cleaning, the process itself is best carried out in several short steps - this will help to avoid breaking off large pieces of scale.

Flushing the OS with serum

"Coca-Cola" and the consequences of such washing

Another common cleaner. Phosphoric acid, which is part of the drink, effectively removes scale from internal parts. However, such a tool should be used carefully, because in addition to the aforementioned acid, Coca-Cola also includes sugar, which can clog the system. Therefore, after using Coca-Cola, it is necessary to re-flush the system with water to remove the remaining sugar. The concentration of phosphoric acid has a negative effect on rubber and parts.

Another disadvantage of Coca-Cola as a washing liquid is the gas content. Expansion of gas due to heating during engine operation can lead to negative consequences for the car. Therefore, if you still decide to use Coca-Cola as a cleaning liquid or do not have the opportunity to use more suitable substances, you must get rid of the gas contained in it.

Coca-Cola for flushing the cooling system

Keeping the engine cooling system clean is one of the important factors in the health of the car. To do this, a wide range of specialized cleaning fluids are available, which, with the right choice, will help maintain the optimal condition of this system, as well as all sorts of alternatives at hand. But when using the latter, you should be careful and resort to them in the absence of more suitable substances.

Video "Instructions for replacing the coolant and flushing the cooling system"

For more information on how to change the coolant and flush the engine cooling system, see our video on the example of a VAZ.

What washer do you use?

The radiator grill is a kind of dirt collector: everything that passes through it settles on the radiator. And there can be several radiators in a car - at the charge air cooler (intercooler), power steering, air conditioning condenser. The radiator of the engine cooling system is always installed last in the direction of air flow, which means that it is blown worst of all by the oncoming air flow. And often it is because of him that water procedures are started. After all, other heat exchangers, when contaminated, only partially lose their efficiency, and the engine cooling system is more like a toggle switch with two positions: “works normally” and “guard, boil!”.

The engine radiator is not only contaminated from the outside, rust and scale particles, as well as oxidation products of aluminum parts, often accumulate in its tanks. And if you are thinking about flushing the radiator from the outside, it makes sense to combine it with replacing the coolant. The terms for replacing the fluid for all cars are different, but, believe the experience, with a run of 80–90 thousand kilometers, it will not hurt to update it.

Consider ways to clean radiators. We will act, as bequeathed by the fathers of dialectics, from the simple to the complex.

As easy as pie

The easiest way is with - they have one radiator. You can wash it yourself, and even without removing it from the car. For example, from a hose in the country. Or going to the car wash. The water pressure should not be powerful so that the thin heat-removing plates do not bend. If this happens, the radiator will practically stop passing air through itself and, accordingly, will not be able to effectively cool the liquid.

Before water procedures, it is advisable to install a plastic film screen behind the radiator: it will block the path of water and dirt flying onto the drive belt, generator and candles. In this case, it is important not to flood the fan motor. He is not afraid of splashes, but you should not direct a jet of pressure directly at him.

In company

If the engine cooling radiator is installed in a package with other radiators, flushing it without dismantling is unlikely to give the desired result. The fact is that the jet after washing the first heat exchanger inevitably loses its strength - and effective cleaning of the second radiator will not work. In this case, you can try to flush the radiators from different sides: the condenser - from the outside, and the radiator of the cooling system - from the inside. But I know from experience that sometimes there is something like a felt blanket made of poplar fluff and other “materials” between the two heat exchangers. Sometimes it is possible to get off with little blood by dismantling the radiator grille (on those cars where it is removed separately from the bumper). This will make it possible to flush the heat exchangers without. And then, tilting the engine cooling radiator and disconnecting its upper mounts, clear the space between the radiators.

The most difficult, but also the most effective way to clean the engine radiator is to completely dismantle it. To do this, you will have to disconnect and remove the electric fan assembly with the casing, as well as disconnect the engine and air conditioner heat exchangers. It is more difficult with the air conditioner condenser: after dismantling, you will have to refill the system with refrigerant. Therefore, they try to simply take the condenser aside and flush it, without depressurizing the air conditioning system. At the same time, I recommend cleaning the removed engine radiator not only from the outside, but also from the inside. For absolute success, you need to drain the coolant from the system and flush all cooling circuits with clean water. This will increase the efficiency of the heater, since dirt accumulates in its heat exchanger.

For different machines, the method of extracting the radiator of the cooling system is different. In most cases, it is necessary to remove the front bumper and grille, as well as remove the engine protection or plastic mudguards from below. Some cars have a reinforcement beam under the bumper, which is welded to the front ends of the side members, which makes it difficult to access the radiators. For others, it can be dismantled with just a few bolts, making it easier to access the heat exchangers.

If you do not dare to flush the radiator on your own, you can entrust this work to professionals. At the same time, the officials will act in full - with the removal of the radiator, but they will also ask for a considerable amount. For example, the owner of a mid-size crossover in Moscow will have to pay about 12 thousand rubles.

Unofficial services that specialize in cars of the same brand usually rate their services somewhat lower. The offers of garage craftsmen are even more affordable, but the quality is often appropriate. Washing a removed radiator at a car wash will cost 100–300 rubles.

June 10, 2018

Overheating of an automobile motor happens for many reasons - various malfunctions, low-quality antifreeze filling, leaks, and so on. On used cars with decent mileage, an additional problem often arises - a banal clogging of narrow ducts and thin radiator tubes. The troubleshooting method is relatively simple and does not require large financial costs - you need to flush the engine cooling system. You can do the work yourself, right in your own garage or on the street.

About the causes and consequences of pollution

The motor and elements of the cooling system of the new car are absolutely clean. Heat exchange in the radiators and the water jacket of the engine is as efficient as possible. Over time, deposits form on the internal surfaces of the channels, which impair the transfer of heat from the coolant. The reasons for the phenomenon are as follows:

• natural oxidation and decomposition of antifreeze;
• filling the system with untreated water rich in metal oxides (salts);
• use of low quality antifreeze;
• a crack in the gasket between the main engine block and the cylinder head (cylinder head), through which engine oil penetrates into the cooling channels.

Note. The circulating hot liquid also interacts with gaskets and various sealants, gradually washing away material particles. The latter travel through the system and clog the bottlenecks - radiator honeycombs.

The process of decomposition of antifreeze is considered natural and is observed on all cars. The result is a deposit in the form of a slippery coating on the inner walls of the pipes and ducts. The phenomenon has practically no effect on heat transfer until the insulating layer becomes too thick (10–15 years of car operation).

Other reasons arise due to improper maintenance of the vehicle or engine breakdowns. Separately, it is worth mentioning the filling of ordinary water - scale forms from its contact with the cold surface of the heat exchanger tubes. This is a durable heat-insulating coating, often blocking the flow of fluid through the engine cooling radiator.

Clogged cooling system pipes cause overheating of the power unit. Further it is clear - the wear of the cylinder-piston group accelerates sharply, the motorist has to repair the engine ahead of schedule.

When to flush?

Removal of contaminants from the engine cooling system is carried out as needed, there is no clearly established regulation. If the machine is properly maintained during operation, and the water jacket and heat exchangers are filled with high-quality antifreeze, then sedimentation and deposit accumulation remain minimal. It will take 8-10 years before such a need arises.

A number of signs indicate clogging of the auto cooling elements:

• the motor constantly works at a temperature close to the limit, the electric fan often turns on;
• after pouring fresh antifreeze, the liquid becomes dark brown in just a few hours;
• deposits are observed on the inner surface of the filler caps;
• the interior heater heat exchanger slightly warms the air;
• antifreeze boils away quickly, it has to be topped up often.

Note. Symptoms correctly reflect the picture only when the pump and thermostat are in good condition, and there are no leaks at the connections.

As a rule, the listed signs appear simultaneously, since clogging particles and salts are evenly distributed throughout the system. But first of all, it is the salon heat exchanger that “overgrows” - its tubes are the thinnest. Just flushing the radiator is not enough - you need to remove deposits from all channels and assemblies.

Tools used

The simplest and cheapest remedy - distilled water - is used for the purpose of preventive washing in the process of replacing antifreeze. The procedure is extremely simple - the antifreeze that has exhausted its resource is drained, the cooling network is filled with distillate, after which the engine warms up to operating temperature. The system is then re-emptied and filled with new anti-freeze fluid.

Prevention gives results in the case of constant use - with each replacement of the coolant. It is unrealistic to wash off scale that has been deposited for several years with water. For major cleaning, experienced drivers use the following tools:

• distilled water with the addition of weak acids (citric, acetic);
• the same with the addition of caustic soda or sodium hypochlorite, better known as "Whiteness";
• factory-made cooling system flush chemicals sold in automotive stores.

Factory chemicals are divided into 2 groups - strong and soft flush liquids. The choice and application depends on the degree of clogging. The question is how to define it? You can't see pollution from the outside. Here you should be guided by two signs: deposits on the plug of the main radiator and the efficiency of the stove.

If the cabin heater practically does not heat up or the lower part of the radiator cap is covered with a dirty coating, it is better to flush the system with a strong two-component composition in two stages. The first is made on an acid basis, the second is on an alkaline basis, when cleaning chemicals are poured in turn. Otherwise, you can limit yourself to a soft flush liquid.

The use of a folk remedy - acidified distillate saves money and also gives an effect, but takes much more time. It is necessary to allocate from 4 to 7 hours to remove perennial dirt.

Soft cleaning method

To do the work yourself, you will need a minimum set of tools:

• wrenches for unscrewing drain plugs;
• the largest syringe you can buy;
• capacity for emptying the water jacket of the motor;
• protective rubber gloves.

Factory products designed for soft cleaning do not corrode gaskets, sealants and rubber products. In addition, the chemical allows you to save up to 90% of the flooded antifreeze, after the operation you will not have to change it.

An example of a popular chemical of this type is the Russian-made Motor Resurs liquid, tested by many motorists on their own cars.

Flushing is done without removing radiators and other parts of the cooling circuit according to the instructions:

1. On a cold engine, unscrew the cap of the main radiator or expansion tank. From there, take antifreeze in an amount of 200 cm 3 with a syringe.
2. Shake well the composition in the bottle and pour into the open neck. Reinstall the plug.
3. Keep driving the car until you have driven 2000 km or see a decrease in engine operating temperature - whichever comes first.
4. Drain all antifreeze from a warm engine, including from the stove radiator. Let the liquid stand for 2 hours - during this time a precipitate will fall on the bottom of the container.
5. Carefully pour 80-90% of the antifreeze back into the cooling system, do not pour out the sediment. Top up the cooling circuit with coolant to the correct level and operate the machine with peace of mind.

Reagents from other manufacturers act in a similar way, only some are filled 1-2 thousand km before replacing the coolant. Additional rinsing with distilled water is not required.

How to do a major cleanup?

If the channels are covered from the inside with a thick layer of plaque, a gentle flushing of the engine cooling system will not give a tangible result. In such cases, a two-component strong agent and water for intermediate cleaning are used. The application technology is as follows:

1. Empty the cooling circuit. The remains of antifreeze from the stove are removed by blowing through one of the nozzles.
2. Heat the desired volume of distillate, pour into the motor and add component No. 1. Start the engine and warm up to operating temperature, let it run for several minutes (the flushing period is indicated on the package).
3. Drain the contaminated solution, refill the system with water and warm up the power package.
4. Remove the water again and fill vial #2 plus distillate. Repeat the flushing operation and empty the system.
5. Do another flush with distilled water in order to remove any remaining scale from the radiators and engine. Fill the circuit with fresh antifreeze.

Warning! When cleaning the channels of the units with strong chemicals, be prepared for the leakage of heat exchangers. The reagent will open microcracks covered in mud, through which antifreeze will seep.

You can rinse the radiator, engine and pipes with citric acid or vinegar essence. No more than 100 grams of food "lemon" or a liter bottle of "Whiteness" is added to the volume of 10 liters. It must be understood that such solutions are quite aggressive and can also cause heat exchangers to leak.

The cleaning technology is similar - the old antifreeze is drained, flushed with acid and distillate. The difference compared to the factory chemical is poor efficiency. It will take several washes to remove a strong blockage, so the intermediate use of distilled water becomes pointless.

Experienced drivers recommend leaving citric acid in the engine for 1-2 hours after warming up the engine. The goal is to allow the chemistry to interact with the scale until the liquid has cooled. If you decide to clean the system with "Whiteness" or another strong agent, then drain it immediately after processing and quickly fill the units with water. Be sure to wear a respirator - chlorine vapor is very caustic and harmful to health.