We remove the head of the VAZ 2109, change the gasket. How to grind valves

10.10.2019

Transmission

If a leak of engine oil or coolant is detected at the junctions of the block head with the cylinder block, remove the block head and replace the block head gasket. A leak can also occur due to warping of the block head due to overheating.

WARNING The head gasket is disposable, so every time the head is removed, the head gasket must be replaced.

1. Disconnect a wire from the plug "-" of the storage battery.

2. Disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature sensor.

3. Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor. 4. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke (see "Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke"). 5. Drain the coolant (see "Changing the coolant"). 6. Remove the thermostat (see "Removing and installing the thermostat"). 7. Disconnect the muffler downpipe from the exhaust manifold (see "Replacing the muffler downpipe"). 8. Remove the air filter (see "Removing and installing the air filter"). 9. Remove the front cover of the camshaft drive belt (see "Replacing the camshaft drive belt on cars VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 and adjusting the belt tension"). 10. Remove the block head cover (see "Adjusting clearances in the valve drive").

11. Fix the camshaft gear from turning by inserting a screwdriver into its hole and resting it on the pin; loosen the camshaft gear mounting bolt (for clarity, the operation is shown on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 engine removed from the car).

12. Remove the drive belt from the camshaft gear, tension roller, water pump toothed pulley, take the belt to the side (see "Replacing the camshaft drive belt on cars VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 and adjusting the belt tension").

13. Turn out a bolt of fastening of a gear wheel of a cam-shaft and remove it together with a washer (for descriptive reasons operation is shown on the removed engine).

14. Using two screwdrivers, remove the gear from the camshaft. In this case, do not damage the camshaft oil seal (for clarity, the operation is shown on the engine removed from the car VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099).

15. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the fuel supply hose to the fuel pump. 16. Disconnect from the carburetor hoses and wires, draft of a drive of an air damper and a cable of a drive of a throttle gate (see. "Removal and installation of the carburetor").

17. Disconnect the central high-voltage wire from the cover of the ignition distributor.

18. Wring out a screw-driver a spring clip and disconnect a block with low-voltage wires from the plug of the distributor of ignition. 19. Disconnect the tube from the vacuum corrector of the ignition distributor. 20. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the engine intake pipe. 21. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the pipe of the water cooling jacket (see "Removing and installing the radiator of the cooling system").

22. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the heater supply hose.

23. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the heater outlet hose.

24. Loosen the ten bolts of the head of the block in the specified order, then finally turn out the bolts of the head of the cylinder block and remove the bolts together with the washers.

25. Slightly lift the cylinder head, slide the cylinder head so that the end of the camshaft comes out of the hole in the rear cover of the drive belt, and remove the cylinder head.

WARNING Do not drive a screwdriver or other tools between the head and cylinder block.

HELPFUL ADVICE To pry the head off the block, insert a screwdriver under the exhaust manifold. Using it as a lever, lift the head of the block.

26. Remove the block head gasket.

27. Cylinder head bolts are pulled out with repeated use. Replace with new cylinder head bolts that are longer than 135.5 mm. Before installing the cylinder head, lubricate the bolts with a thin layer of engine oil. 28. Clean the mating surfaces of the block head and cylinder block (the planes must be dry and clean) and remove oil from the threaded holes in the block for the block head bolts.

29. Install a new head gasket on the cylinder block (the gasket must be dry and clean) along the mounting sleeves. In this case, the hole for the passage of oil in the head gasket (with copper edging) must be between the 3rd and 4th cylinders.

30. Install the block head on the cylinder block, after making sure that the crankshaft and camshafts are in the TDC position (both valves of the 1st cylinder must be closed). Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence in four stages: 1 - torque 20 Nm (2 kgf-m); 2 - torque 69.4-85.7 Nm (7.1-8.7 kgf-m); 3 - tighten the bolts by 90 °; 4 - finally tighten the bolts by 90 °.

31. Install the parts on the cylinder head and connect the hoses and wires to the block head in reverse order, while it is forbidden to turn the crankshaft and camshafts before installing the camshaft drive belt. Install the camshaft gear with the protruding part of the hub towards the engine. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearances (see "Adjusting clearances in the valve drive"). Adjust the tension of the camshaft drive belt (see "Replacing the camshaft drive belt on cars VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 and adjusting the belt tension").

The main symptom indicating a malfunction of the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2109 car is the appearance of an oil or coolant leak at the junction of the cylinder head and the engine block. In addition to a malfunction of the gasket itself, a leak could also provoke warping of the head due to engine overheating, but in any case it is necessary to disassemble.

To perform dismantling, we prepare a standard set of tools. The order of work is as follows:

Disconnect the supply wires from the coolant temperature control sensors and from the emergency oil pressure sensor in the system.
Next, remove the thermostat, after draining the cooling system.
Remove the air filter housing. There is no need to remove the carburetor itself, as it will not interfere.
Disconnect the muffler downpipe from the exhaust manifold.
Now we need to remove the camshaft drive gear, but first we set the piston of the first cylinder to the top dead center position. Then we remove the protective cover of the camshaft drive belt and loosen the gear mounting bolt, having previously fixed it from turning.

Now we remove the camshaft drive belt, after which, finally unscrewing the fastening bolt, remove the gear.

We press the latch and disconnect the block with the supply wires from the ignition distributor. Also disconnect the central high voltage wire.
Loosen the clamps and remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump.
Disconnect the air and throttle control rods from the carburetor. Disconnect the power cable from the solenoid valve.
Remove the vacuum booster hose from the intake pipe, disconnect the tube from the vacuum ignition corrector.

We loosen the clamps and remove the heating hoses for the car interior from the nozzles.

Now you can remove the block head. Unscrew the bolts of its fastening with a head with an extension. Swing it slightly in jerks to move it out of place and carefully remove it.
Remove the seal.

This completes the repair work on removing and replacing the cylinder head gasket VAZ 2109. Before you install the head, check the length of the bolts of its fastening. The length should be 135.5mm, if they are stretched out, then replace them. Complete assembly in reverse order.

This work is carried out on a viewing hole or overpass.

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Drain the coolant into a plastic container.
Disconnect the intake pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Now dismantle the receiver together with the throttle assembly (VAZ-2111), or the carburetor in the case of (VAZ-21083), as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds (remove the cylinder head without removing the manifolds).
On the VAZ-2111, it is necessary to disconnect the "mass" wires (they are attached to the left end of the head), remove the fuel rail with fuel pipes and nozzles.
Disconnect the high voltage wires from the spark plugs, as well as the connectors for the coolant temperature and oil pressure sensors.
On the VAZ-21083, you will additionally have to remove the housing of auxiliary units, the ignition distribution sensor and the fuel pump.
Now remove the timing belt, then the tensioner pulley, spacer and camshaft sprocket.
Unscrew the rear nut that secures the timing cover to the cylinder head.
Remove the cover cylinder head.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the clamps and, one by one, disconnect all hoses from the outlet pipe of the cylinder head.

12. Remove 10 cylinder head bolts using a hexagon on "10".

13. Get screws together with washers.

14. Now you can remove the cylinder head along with the gasket.

15. When disassembling the valve mechanism, place a wooden block under the valve plate that you are going to crack.

16. Dry the valve.

17. Get it from the cylinder head guide sleeve.

18. Take the key to "13" and unscrew the two fastening nuts on the outlet pipe.

19. Remove the gasket and tube.

Valve stems and bushing guides are lubricated with engine oil.
Before installation, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the cylinder block from dirt and oil, as well as the remnants of the old gasket.
Replacing the cylinder head gasket carried out on two special centering bushings.
Now you can install the mounting screws and tighten them in four stages according to the diagram below.

The first tightening of the screws is carried out with a torque of 20 N.m (2 kgf.m);

The third is a 90 ° tightening;

Now you know how to remove the cylinder head on a VAZ 2109, on this do-it-yourself replacement of the cylinder head gasket can be considered complete.

WARNING
The cylinder head is replaced with bearing housing assemblies as they are machined together.

1. Remove the cylinder head from the car VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 (see "Replacing the cylinder head gasket").

2. Turn away the fastening screw and disconnect the union of heating from the carburetor. If the screw cannot be removed, loosen the clamp and remove the hose from the fitting.

3. Turn away four nuts of fastening of the carburetor (two of them are located from the opposite side).

4. Remove the carburetor from the intake pipe.

5. Carefully remove the carburetor gaskets.

6. Turn away two nuts of fastening of a heat-insulating guard of the carburetor.

7. Loosen the nut on the fitting.

8. Remove the carburetor heat shield.

9. Turn away two nuts of fastening of a branch pipe of an intake of warm air.

10. Turn away a nut of fastening of an eye.

11. Remove the eye and warm air intake pipe.

12. Turn away nine nuts of fastening of an inlet pipe and a final collector.

13. Remove the exhaust manifold.

14. Remove the intake pipe.

HELPFUL ADVICE

After removing the exhaust manifold and intake pipe, place wooden spacers under the cylinder head so as not to damage the valves protruding from the cylinder head.

15. Remove two gaskets.

NOTE

Remove gaskets carefully. If the exhaust manifold and inlet pipe gaskets are not damaged or heavily compressed, they can be reused. Carefully pry off the burnt gaskets in the exhaust manifold and inlet pipe with a screwdriver.

16. Turn out from a head of the block of cylinders of a spark plug.

17. Turn out the gauge of temperature of a cooling liquid (DTOZH).

18. Turn out the gauge of a control lamp of emergency pressure of oil.

19. Turn away ten nuts of fastening of both cases of bearings of a cam-shaft.

20. Remove both camshaft bearing housings from the cylinder head.

21. Remove the camshaft.

22. Remove the oil seal from the front end of the camshaft.

23. Turn away a nut of fastening of a tension roller.

24. Remove the tension roller and thrust washer installed under the tension roller.

25. Take out pushers of valves together with adjusting washers.

WARNING

After removing the next valve lifter, mark it and the adjusting washer with a serial number in order to install them in their place during assembly.

NOTE
The valve drive consists of the following parts: 1, 2 - valves; 3 - outer spring; 4 - internal spring; 5 - top plate; b - cracker; 7 - bottom plate.

All these parts must be dismantled from the cylinder head.

26. Mark the valves with the cylinder number so that the valves are in place during assembly. Marking can be applied using a core as close as possible to the center of the valve: the valves of the first cylinder - one point, the second - two, etc.

27. Place a suitable stop under the valve to be removed.

28. Install the valve spring compressor on the cylinder head. Compress the valve springs with it and remove the crackers. Gradually loosening the pressure on the tool handle, fully decompress the valve spring and remove the tool from the head.

29. Remove the valve outer spring with poppet.

30. Remove the internal valve spring.

31. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.

32. Carefully remove the valve stem seal without damaging the valve guide.

33. Remove the support washer (plate) of the valve springs. Remove the rest of the valves in the same way.
34. Rinse the block head parts in gasoline, wipe and dry them.

35. Clean the combustion chambers from carbon deposits. Inspect the cylinder head. If the cylinder head has cracks or burn marks in the combustion chambers, replace the cylinder head.

36. Check up flatness of the surface adjoining to the block of cylinders. To do this, place a metal ruler with an edge on the surface of the cylinder head in the center along, and then diagonally and measure the gap between the plane of the block head and the ruler with a feeler gauge. Replace the cylinder head if the clearance exceeds 0.1 mm.

37. Clean carbon deposits from valves. This can be done with a suitable metal tool.

38. Inspect the valves. Replace valves with the following defects: deep scratches and scratches on the working chamfer, cracks, deformation of the valve stem, warping of the valve disc, traces of burnout. Shallow risks and scratches on the working chamfer can be removed by lapping the valves (see "Lapping the valves").

NOTE

Rice. 4.5. Valve seat dimensions
Damage to the working chamfer of the valves, which cannot be removed by lapping, can be repaired by grinding on a special machine. When grinding, it is necessary to maintain the dimensions indicated in Fig. 4.5. In parentheses are the different dimensions for the VAZ 21083 engine.

39. Check up a condition of springs of valves. Replace bent, broken or cracked valve springs. Check the elasticity of the valve springs. To do this, measure the height of the springs in the free state, and then under two different loads. If the valve spring is out of specification, replace the spring.

NOTE
Parameters of valve springs to determine their elasticity:
outer valve spring:
free height ...................... 45.2 mm;
height under load (26.0 + 1.7) kgf ....... 33.7 mm;
height under load (46.2 + 2.4) kgf ....... 24.7 mm;
inner spring:
free height ...................... 34.1 mm;
height under load (9.0 + 0.8) kgf ........ 29.7 mm;
height under load (27.5 + 1.5) kgf ...... 20.7 mm.

40. Check the condition of the valve seats. Valve seat faces must be free of wear, pitting and corrosion. Minor damage (minor scratches, scratches, etc.) can be removed by lapping the valves.

NOTE
More significant defects in valve seats are eliminated by grinding.

Rice. 4.6. Valve seat dimensions: a - inlet valve seat; b - exhaust valve seat; I - new seat; II - seat after repair
When grinding, maintain the dimensions indicated in fig. 4.6. First, the chamfer is ground at an angle of 20°, then the chamfer at an angle of 45°. After grinding the seats, it is necessary to grind the valves, then thoroughly clean and blow the head of the block with compressed air so that no abrasive particles remain in the channels and combustion chambers. In parentheses are the different dimensions for the VAZ 21083 engine.

41. Check up a backlash between directing plugs and valves (fig. 4.7).
NOTE

Rice. 4.7. Dimensions of valves and valve guides
Gap between valve and guide sleeve, mm:
nominal for inlet valves ................. 0.022-0.055;
nominal for exhaust valves...............0.029-0.062;
maximum allowable clearance for intake and exhaust valves ... 0.3.
The clearance is calculated as the difference between the diameter of the hole in the sleeve and the diameter of the valve stem. If the clearance is less than the limit, try replacing the valve. If the clearance exceeds the limit, replace the guide bush.

42. Press out the defective valve guide from the side of the combustion chamber with a special mandrel.

43. Insert the new valve guide into the special mandrel.

NOTES

Valve guides with circlips are available as spare parts. The valve guides have an outer diameter increased by 0.2 mm and a reduced diameter of the valve hole.

44. Using a mandrel, press in the valve guide from the camshaft side until the retaining ring stops against the cylinder head.

45. Ream the hole in the valve guide with a reamer to 8.022-8.040 mm for intake valves and 8.029-8.047 mm for exhaust valves. Then grind the valve seats as described above, centering the tool over the hole in the bushing.

46. Inspect the valve lifters. If there are scores, scratches, or other damage on the valve lifter working surface, replace the valve lifters.

47. Examine adjusting washers of pushers of valves. On their working surfaces there should be no burrs, nicks, scratches, traces of stepped or uneven wear, metal rubbing. With such defects, the washers must be replaced. Concentric burn-in marks with camshaft cams are allowed on the washers.

48. Measure the length of the cylinder head bolts, as the block head bolts are pulled out with repeated tightening. If the cylinder head bolts are longer than 135.5 mm, replace the bolts.

49. To check the tightness of the cylinder head, plug the hole in the cooling jacket pipe at the rear end of the block head, turn the cylinder head over with the combustion chambers up and pour kerosene into the channels of the cooling jacket. If there are kerosene leaks, it means that the cylinder head is not tight, and the block head must be replaced.

50. If an old valve is being installed, deburr the cracker grooves. After that, it is necessary to grind the valve to the seat (see "Lapping the valves").

51. Install the valves in the block head in accordance with the previously made markings, after lubricating the valve stems with engine oil.
52. Install the lower plates of the valve springs.
53. Install the valve stem seals (see "Replacing the valve stem seals").

54. Replace the camshaft if the camshaft journals and cams show signs of wear, scoring and deep scratches. In workshops equipped with special tools and devices, it is possible to check the radial runout of the camshaft journals (radial runout of the journals should not exceed 0.02 mm) and the gap between the holes of the supports and the camshaft journals, which should not exceed 0.2 mm (clearance for new parts 0.069-0.11 mm).
55. Install the camshaft and bearing housings (see "Replacing the valve stem seals").
56. Install gaskets, exhaust manifold and intake pipe.
57. Install the head on the cylinder block (see "Replacing the cylinder head gasket"), check the clearances in the valve drive and adjust them if necessary (see "Adjusting clearances in the valve drive").

It is necessary to remove the cylinder head (cylinder head) when replacing the gasket, block, and also when the piston group mechanism and its valves are being repaired or when the head itself is being repaired. In addition, when tuning the engine or completely disassembling it, you also need to dismantle the cylinder head.

Before starting work, it is necessary that the car be installed on a flyover or on a viewing hole.