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Pressing out old bushings of jet rods.
Having removed the first lever, we inspect the sleeve, if it is very old, then it will be very difficult to press it out, in this case it will help to burn it out. To do this, we kindle a fire and burn out the old bushing with the help of fire, it can also be done with a gas burner. 
If you have a powerful vise, you can try to press out.
Pressing in new bushings.
After the old bushings are pressed out, we proceed to press in the new ones, before that you need to clean the inside of the rod with a file. If you want new installed rubber bands to last longer, I recommend installing polyurethane instead of rubber. 
Such silent blocks are much more durable than standard rubber ones. To press them in, you will need a vise, or a piece of pipe and a bolt that is suitable in diameter. 
This is how it all looks, before pressing in, the silent block must be thoroughly lubricated with soapy water in order to facilitate its installation. I recommend watching this car repair in the video below.
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Good afternoon, dear visitors of the site site. In this article I will tell and show how to make the replacement of the bushings of the VAZ 2107 jet rods myself. The principle of replacement is the same for all Classic VAZ models.
In the last article "Replacing jet rods of VAZ cars", I showed how the rods change completely, but if only the rubber bushing (silent block) is worn out, then it makes sense to replace only it.
To begin with, we need to diagnose and find out whether bushings need to be changed on all jet rods. How to correctly diagnose the front and rear suspension (chassis), I recommend that you read a special article (Later I will put a link).
To do this operation, we need a viewing hole. It's good that I have it. Before, when she wasn’t there, I kept running to my neighbors to let them dig deeper into my car, but now everything is much simpler.
Having rolled the car into the inspection hole, I determined that the rubber bushings on the transverse link had worn out. Now let's get started.
The first thing to do is to remove the transverse jet thrust. I took a metal brush and thoroughly cleaned all the threads on the bolts from dirt and treated with WD-40.
Now that we have everything ready, I unscrewed both nuts without much difficulty.
We faced the next test, this is to pull out the bolts. Why test? Because if the gum is loose, then moisture gets between the bolt and the metal sleeve and corrosion begins. All this leads to the fact that under the influence of corrosion the bolt sticks to the sleeve and sometimes it is simply not possible to pull out the ego.
In my case, I was very lucky and the bolts went very easily. The left bolt came out perfectly, but the right one rested on the lower spring cup.
The photo above shows where the bolt rested. To pull out the bolt, you need to load some scrap metal into the trunk or ask a friend to press down the rear of the car a little. Thus, the bracket will go down a little and the bolt can be pulled out freely.
Now we just extract the thrust, there should be no difficulties here. If the jet thrust will go tight, then you can help her with a mount.
Replacing the rubber bushings jet rods.
To pull out the rubber bushing, we need to knock out the metal inner clip (sleeve). After rummaging through my toolbox, I found the right tool. I don't know what it is, but it just fit. In my opinion, this is a tool for punching holes in the wall, such as an ancient perforator :).
A few more blows and the sleeve flew out along with the tip. Here, be careful not to hit your fingers with a hammer when the bushing comes out sharply.
After all the efforts, this is the picture.
The photo above shows how the rubber bushings cracked and this is not much wear. With more wear, the inner metal clip itself falls out and the rubber band too.
The next step is to squeeze out the old gum. We need a rod for extrusion and an emphasis for jet thrust.
I was too lazy to make a special puller and, after rummaging in the garage, I found a suitable tool.
Instead of a thrust bushing, I used a holder for large dies (with which threads are cut), and for extrusion, I used an ordinary metal round log with a diameter of 25 mm.
The photo above shows how I installed this design. With a little effort, the sleeve will easily squeeze out.
The photo above shows how the sleeve began to come out.
With a little more effort, she popped out.
Preparing for the installation of bushings jet rods.
Before you install a new bushing, be sure to clean out all the dirt and rust inside the metal cage of the jet thrust. If this is not done, then when pressing in, a new sleeve can be wrapped and damaged, which we do not need in any way. Yes, and the installation of the sleeve itself will be problematic.
The inner bushings are also subject to wear and see if they are badly worn, then feel free to change them to new ones.
If it is still suitable for further use, then be sure to chamfer the edges.
This is necessary so that when we press in the metal bushings, they do not damage the rubber bushing. Why I say this, because there were cases when I had to change new rubber bushings because of their damage.
I bought new rubber bushings in advance. I did not seek to buy expensive and branded bushings, because ordinary ones go for quite a long time. Of course, you can buy expensive self-stabilizing ones, but I took simple ones.
We proceed to the installation of bushings jet thrust VAZ 2107.
In order for the bushing to easily enter the jet thrust cage, it must be lubricated with soap. Then we install the bushing and jet thrust, as shown in the photo below.
Under the influence of a vice, the sleeve will enter into place. When squeezed, the elastic will begin to bend in one direction and it would seem that she does not want to enter, but you do not pay attention and squeeze further, she simply has no chance and she will eventually enter. The main thing in this case is to quickly squeeze the vise.
After the work done above, we got the following result.
And now, the most important task remains. We need to press in the inner metal sleeve.
I made this bullet from an ordinary bolt. I happened to have a lathe, and I just sharpened the bolt head, but you can grind it off with a sharpener.
I don't remember the exact thickness of the bolt, but I think it was 10 millimeters. This bullet is inserted into the sleeve and looks like this.
We lubricate the bullet with soap and then, according to the principle, as before, crush the sleeve with a vise.
Everything calmly falls into place, but since a bullet is installed in a metal sleeve, it will not reach the end, because it will rest against the cheek of the vise.
Now we need a stand in order to annoy the sleeve. I used an inch sleeve, it just fit.
Having put the coupling, we are annoying the bushing.
After all the work done above, this is the result.
If the inner metal clip protrudes slightly from one side, you need to level it with a hammer.
And now we just have to set the traction in its place. Do not forget to lubricate the bolts with nigrol, you never know what quality the rubber bands will turn out to be.
That, perhaps, is all, we have replaced the VAZ 2107 jet thrust bushings.
Until new posts.
The basis of safe driving is the stability of the car on the road. This rule applies to both trucks and cars. And VAZ 2107 is no exception. The handling of this car has always left much to be desired. In order to somehow make life easier for drivers, engineers developed a jet thrust system for the “seven”. But any detail, as you know, can fail. And then the driver will face the question: is it possible to change the broken traction with your own hands? Yes, you can. Let's try to figure out how it's done.
Appointment of jet thrust on the VAZ 2107
The purpose of jet thrust on the VAZ 2107 is simple: do not allow the car to "walk" along the road and sway strongly when entering sharp turns and when hitting various obstacles. This problem has been known since early automobiles. At that time they did not know about any jet thrusts, and the cars were equipped with conventional springs. The result was logical: the car easily rolled over, and it was incredibly difficult to drive it. Over time, the car suspension was improved: they began to install a system of long rods in it, which were supposed to take on part of the loads arising from road irregularities or due to too aggressive driving style. On the VAZ 2107 and other classic Zhiguli models, there are five jet rods: a pair of long ones, a pair of short ones, plus a large transverse rod, which serves as the basis of the entire traction system. All this is installed near the rear axle of the car.
You can see this system only from the inspection hole, where all work is done to replace broken rods.
On the choice of jet thrust
At present, there are not so many large manufacturers producing jet thrust for the VAZ 2107 and other classics. Their products differ both in price and reliability. Consider the most popular products.
Traction "Track"
The products of the Trek company are very popular with the owners of the "sevens". These rods are distinguished by high reliability and high price, which starts from 2100 rubles per set.
The main difference between the "Track" are the heads for the bushings. Firstly, they are large, and secondly, they are attached to the rods by welding. And silent blocks on the "Tracks" are made of especially dense rubber, which significantly extends their service life.
Traction "Cedar"
On the vast majority of the “sevens”, which had previously left the assembly line, jet thrusts were installed precisely from Kedr, since this company has always been and remains the official supplier of AvtoVAZ.
In terms of quality, Kedr is somewhat inferior to Trek. This is especially true for bushings and silent blocks. All this wears out pretty quickly, and therefore, they will have to be changed more often. But there is also a good side - a democratic price. A set of rods "Cedar" can be purchased for 1700 rubles.
Traction "Belmag"
Despite the simplicity and reliability of Belmag rods, they have one significant drawback: they are not so easy to find on sale. Every year they are less and less common on the shelves of auto parts stores. But if the car owner still manages to find them, then he can be congratulated, because he got a reliable product at a reasonable price. The cost of Belmag rods starts from 1800 rubles per set.
Here, in essence, is the entire list of large manufacturers of good traction for the VAZ 2107. Of course, now there are a lot of smaller companies on the market that are quite aggressively promoting their products. But none of these firms gained great popularity among the owners of the classics, and therefore it is inappropriate to mention them here.
So what should the driver choose from all of the above?
The answer is simple: the only criterion for choosing jet rods is the thickness of the car owner's wallet. If a person is not constrained by funds, the best option would be to buy Track rods. Yes, they are expensive, but installing them will allow you to forget about suspension problems for a long time. If there is not enough money, it makes sense to look for Belmag products on the shelves. Well, if this idea is not crowned with success, the third option remains - the Kedr thrusts, which are sold everywhere.
Here it is necessary to say a few words about fakes. Knowing that car owners most often choose the products of the three above companies, unscrupulous manufacturers have now literally flooded the counters with fakes. Moreover, in some cases, fakes are made so skillfully that only a specialist can identify them. In such a situation, an ordinary driver can only focus on the price and remember: good things are expensive. And if there is a set of “Track” rods on the counter for only a thousand rubles, then this is a serious reason to think about it. And don't rush to buy.
On the modernization of jet thrust
Sometimes drivers decide on their own to increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust. Usually, the modernization of rods means two operations. Here they are:
- installation of twin jet thrusts;
- installation of reinforced jet thrusts.
Now a little more about each of the above operations.
Twin rods
Most often, drivers install dual traction on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: for this procedure with rods, you have to do almost nothing. It’s just that not one, but two sets of rods are purchased, installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the “seven”. Plus, not ordinary, but elongated mounting bolts are purchased, on which this whole structure rests.
The obvious advantage of such a modernization is an increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the rods breaks while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (a jet thrust breakage is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, not to hear this is simply not possible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier she “ate” small bumps in the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and pits while driving.
Reinforced traction
If the car is operated in extreme conditions and drives mainly on dirt roads or on roads with very poor asphalt, the car owner can install reinforced jet traction on it. As a rule, drivers make such traction on their own. But recently, large manufacturers have begun to offer reinforced traction of their own production. For example, on sale you can find Track-Sport rods, which are distinguished by a large size of silent blocks and an adjustable transverse bar. A pair of nuts on the transverse rod allows you to slightly change its length. Which in turn affects the handling of the car and the overall rigidity of its suspension.
Of course, the driver will have to pay for increased reliability: the cost of a set of Track-Sport rods starts from 2,600 rubles.
Checking the state of jet thrusts on the VAZ 2107
Before we talk about checking jet thrusts, let's ask ourselves the question: why is there a need for such a check at all? The fact is that when driving, jet thrusts are subjected to both transverse and torsional loads. Torsional loads occur when the wheels hit large potholes or hit large rocks and other obstacles. This type of load is especially harmful for rods, or rather, for silent blocks in rods. It is the silent blocks that are the weak point of the jet thrust (there is simply nothing to break in the thrust itself: it is a metal rod with two lugs at the ends). In addition, the rubber parts of silent blocks are periodically exposed to the action of reagents that are sprinkled on roads during icy conditions. As a result, cracks appear on the rubber and its service life is rapidly reduced.
If you believe the operating instructions, then the new jet thrust on the VAZ 2107 can travel at least 100 thousand km. But taking into account the conditions listed above, the actual service life of the rods rarely exceeds 80 thousand km.
From the same instructions it follows that the check of the state of jet thrusts must be carried out every 20 thousand km. However, masters in car services strongly recommend checking the traction every 10-15 thousand km in order to avoid extremely unpleasant surprises. To check the condition of the silent blocks in the rods, you will need an inspection hole and a mounting blade.
Check sequence
Video: checking jet thrust on the VAZ 2107
Replacing jet rods on VAZ 2107
Before starting work, we will determine the necessary consumables and tools. Here's what we'll need:
- a set of new jet rods for the VAZ 2107;
- rust remover WD-40;
- mounting blades;
- set of open-end wrenches;
- hammer.
Sequence of work
First of all, two important points should be mentioned. Firstly, the thrust should be changed only on the inspection hole or on the flyover. Secondly, all five rods from the VAZ 2107 are removed in exactly the same way. That is why the procedure for dismantling only one central rod will be described below. To remove the remaining four rods, you just need to repeat the steps listed below.
- The car is installed above the viewing hole. Silent blocks, lugs and nuts on the central rod are carefully treated with WD40 (as a rule, the lugs rust very much, so after applying the liquid you have to wait 15-20 minutes for the composition to properly dissolve the rust).
- After the rust has been dissolved, the area where the WD40 was applied should be thoroughly wiped with a rag.
- Then, using a socket head with a ratchet, the nut on the silent block is unscrewed (it is best if it is a socket wrench with a ratchet knob, since there is very little space next to the rod). With a second open-end wrench, 17, it is necessary to hold the head of the bolt so that it does not turn when the nut is unscrewed.
- As soon as the nut is unscrewed, the fixing bolt is carefully knocked out with a hammer.
- A similar procedure is carried out with the second silent block of the central rod. As soon as both fixing bolts are removed from their eyes, the rod is manually removed from the brackets.
- All other thrusts from the VAZ 2107 are removed in the same way. But when removing the side rods, one caveat should be taken into account: after removing the mounting bolt, the upper edge of the wheel may fall outward. As a result, the holes on the silent block and on the mounting bracket are displaced relative to each other as shown in the figure below. And this creates serious problems when installing a new thrust: the mounting bolt cannot be inserted into the bracket.
- If such a situation arose, then the wheel will have to be lifted with a jack until the holes on the bracket and on the silent block of the new thrust are aligned. Sometimes, without this additional operation, it is simply impossible to install a new lateral thrust.
Video: changing jet engines to VAZ 2107
Replacing bushings on VAZ 2107 rods
Bushings on jet rods VAZ 2107 are disposable products that cannot be repaired. It is not possible to restore a worn bushing in a garage. The average motorist has neither the necessary equipment nor the necessary skills to restore the inner surface of the bushing. Thus, the only option for repairing damaged traction bushings is to replace them with new ones. Here's what we need to replace the bushings on the rods:
- bushing press tool (available at any auto parts store);
- hammer;
- beard with a diameter of 10 mm.
Sequencing
The rods are removed from the car according to the instructions above. Eyelets and silent blocks should be treated with WD40 and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rust with a wire brush.
- Usually, after removing the thrust, the sleeve is removed from it freely. But this only happens if it is heavily worn and not very rusty. If the sleeve is literally welded to the rod due to rust, you will have to knock it out with a hammer, after inserting a beard into it.
- If the rubber part of the silent block is severely damaged, then you will have to get rid of it. These scraps of rubber can simply be pulled out by prying with a screwdriver or mounting spatula.
- Now the inner surface of the eye should be carefully cleaned with a sharp knife or sandpaper. There should be no rust or rubber residue left on the eye.
- Now a new bushing is installed in the eye (and if the rubber was also removed, then a new silent block is installed). It is pressed into the eye using a special tool.
- If there was no press tool at hand, you can use the same beard. However, you will have to act very carefully so as not to damage the inner surface of the sleeve.
So, to replace the jet rods with a VAZ 2107, the car owner will not have to drive the car to the nearest service center. All work can be done by hand. Even a novice motorist who at least once held a hammer and a wrench in his hands will cope with this. All you need to do is follow the above instructions exactly.
Reactive thrust (rod) - an element of the suspension of a car, which helps to limit the movement of the front steering knuckle or rear axle, depending on the installation location. For durability under high loads, jet thrusts are mainly made of cast elastic steel. But in addition to the steel base, this part has an important element of the silent block (or eye).
Interesting! A silent block (from the English silent block) is a non-separable rubber-metal hinge, in which the metal outer and inner bushings are inseparably connected to each other using an elastomer layer vulcanized between them, usually rubber. But collapsible rubber-metal hinges, in which the rubber bushing is replaceable, are also simply called silent blocks.
Rubber-metal hinges (hereinafter referred to as RMSH) are attached to the base of the rod by welding. One of the reasons for the failure of jet thrust is the appearance of cracks in the place of welding. The second reason for the breakdown of jet rods is wear of the rubber bushing of the silent block which deform over time and may break. should also not be ruled out corrosion of the base of the torque rod, you should especially watch out for those made of pipes.
Important! A jet traction malfunction can be noticed by a knock in the suspension that manifests itself while driving. When a knock occurs, you need to inspect the suspension for a malfunction as soon as possible.
How to replace jet thrust and what is needed for this
To replace the tie rod, park the machine in a suitable location. It is best to work on a flyover or in a pit.
Required tool
To remove jet thrust, you will definitely need:
- a set of keys,
- metal brush,
- lubrication fluid WD-40.
Removing jet rods
To remove the jet thrust, start on the freer side. First you need to clean the junction, then spray with WD-40 grease and wait until it gets wet. Then you can unscrew the nut. If it doesn't work, you need to reapply WD-40.
To make it easier to unscrew, you can also take a longer key. Usually the bolt sticks strongly in the sleeve. Therefore, in order to move it from its place, it is necessary, having screwed the nut to the edge of the bolt, hit it with a hammer. You need to completely unscrew the nut and remove the bolt. Then move on to the other side.
When removing the long longitudinal tie rods, to gain access to the tie rod bolt, you need to unscrew the lower part of the shock absorber, remove the spacer and move the shock absorber to the side. Carry out the connection cleaning operation, as in the first case, and unscrew the nut. If you fail to remove the bolt, then you will not be able to hit it, because. access is closed by the brake disc and axle shaft. In this case, it is best to cut the bolt in the gap between the silent block and the bracket.
Fastening new jet rods
It is necessary to install the traction first in the front bracket, and then in the rear. Lubricate the bolt with transmission oil.
When inserting the torque rod into the rear bracket holes usually don't line up.. This is because with a broken link, the bridge was constantly moving under the influence of loads.
To align the holes, use a mounting spatula, rest it on the bracket and unscrew the bridge until the holes line up. When the openings are level, insert the bolt and tighten the nut.
Carry out all work on replacing jet rods one by one, replacing, for example, first two long ones, and then short ones, or vice versa.
Car tie rod bushing replacement
If, when examining the jet thrust, you see that it is not bent, not broken, the eyes are not broken, then you can simply replace the rubber bushings RMSH. To replace you will need:
- buy a set of rubber and metal bushings,
- it is advisable to buy new fasteners (nuts and bolts),
- two spanners for "19",
- hammer,
- a device for pressing and pressing bushings,
- vise (you can do without them)
Note!To lubricate the rubber bushings, it is necessary to use a soap solution, because. they are made of rubber, which is not resistant to oil and gasoline. Using oil for lubrication can shorten the life of the jet thrust.
What can a late replacement lead to?
With a strong wear of the silent block at high speed, you can lose control of the car, it will simply drive from side to side. If the link breaks, the vehicle will immediately lose stability, which can lead to an accident. Don't take things to the extreme. As soon as you hear a knock in the suspension, notice a sharp increase in vibration when driving, or unevenly worn tires - immediately inspect the tie rods. It's also worth doing after every 50 km. run.
Did you know? That the creation of jet propulsion was preceded by the work of automakers aimed at removing the effects of forces that can turn the car over.
Today we will tell you about the nuances, tips and secrets that are used by the owners of the VAZ classic when replacing jet rods, rubber bushings of the rear suspension rods. This entire article is based on both my personal experience and the experience of members of the forum. We have simply combined the main points on the replacement and the problems that you may have to face in one article and present it to you. Questions, if you still have them, you can ask us on the forum in the appropriate topic in the "Undercarriage" section. So - diagnostics. What can make us climb into the rear suspension? Extraneous knocks, strange behavior of the car, expressed in wobbling along the road. Carefully inspect the condition of the rubber bushings - they should not be torn, torn, etc.
So I will say right away - replacing the bushings is not a 5-minute matter. In general, when replacing the bushings, I unscrewed each rod in turn and immediately after the replacement screwed it into place, then removed the next one. If you remove everything at once, it may be difficult to install, as the bridge will move. Now I will describe the process itself - at first I knocked out metal bushings, some fell into my hands due to the high wear of the rubber bands. Next, an elastic band - so as not to worry about pressing it out, I took a hacksaw for metal, removed the canvas, threaded it into a hole where there was a metal sleeve, screwed it to the hacksaw and made two cuts so that a small piece of the sleeve fell out by itself, and then the rest of it is pulled out by hand. Pressing is more difficult...
You can use the following presser:
And you can go the other way. Initially, the rubber bushing is lubricated with soapy water in order to “slip through” and then: the first method is pressed in a BIG vice, not the first time sometimes, but it is pressed in, it is useless to press in with hands or a hammer. And if there is no vice, I used the weight of the car and the jack, that is, I laid down the traction, put a sleeve soaked in the solution on it, then I put a jack on top of them and lift the car with it. The machine, with its weight, presses the rubber bushing into the rod. We do the same manipulations with metal bushings.
Returning to the question of devices for pressing bushings, a ball from a bearing with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bushing is very convenient, we put the ball on the bushing and press it in a large vice, the ball carefully pushes the rubber band apart and the entire pressing occurs quickly and without any effort. I pressed it all the way, pushed the vise apart, put something wider in diameter than the bearing, I used the extended pliers, pressed it and the ball is ready for new tests.
When disassembling (unscrewing) the rods, there are cases when the bolt has rusted to the metal sleeve, and it’s impossible to get it out of there ... If you knock it out, then you need to scatter the floor of the bridge there. There is only one way out -
grinder. Cut exactly on the bushing. First cut off from the side of the nut, gradually turning the bolt, since the grinder will not be able to cut off the entire bolt in one go, then cut from the side of the cap, also turning the bolt by the cap. For the convenience of work, cut off the bar itself so as not to interfere.
