Do-it-yourself leveling stand drawings. Do-it-yourself slipway

08.03.2020

Miscellaneous

Body repairs often require expensive materials. But the deformation of parts does not mean that they need to be replaced. You can restore the geometry of the body by contacting the workshop. But the services of workers will have to be paid. Or you can create a slipway and repair the car yourself. Homemade stocks for body repair have a huge number of advantages.

What is the purpose of the principle of operation

A slipway is the equipment necessary to fix a bent body of a car. But, depending on the type of device, large-sized machines are also repaired. Its purpose is straightening and correction.

The principle of operation is to apply force to a securely fixed machine. For this, chains or other devices are used that allow you to return the necessary body geometry.

Types of stocks and their main differences

In total there are 4 types of construction:

Floor. Standard design on rails.
Rolling. Small in size. Similar designs are stored in a garage or workshop.
Frame. Structures on chains designed for complete repair and lifting of the machine to a height.
Platform. Designed for professional repair. Suitable for large vehicles.

Floor structures

The floor slipway is also called stationary. Its difference is the presence of rails on the floor, which allow you to move the mechanisms. With their help, it is easy to carry out body work.

The stationary slipway is convenient due to retractable mechanisms.

Floor structures have 3 advantages:

They take up little space.
They are cheaper than other stocks.
Quick installation of transport.

The disadvantage is the complexity of the installation of the structure.

Rolling

A slipway is a slipway that is used for light repair work if there is no full-fledged slipway or its use is impossible for some reason. The difference is that the slipway is small in size - it is not necessary to roll the car up to it. You can bring a rolling slipway to the car.

This design has the following advantages:

It is customizable for different types of cars.
Possibility of equipping the device with hydraulics.
The clamp fastening design has no analogues.
Can be used with most types of machines.
Compact size.

The disadvantage is that it is impossible to carry out complex work associated with large distortions.

frame

A distinctive feature of frame structures is the use of a frame as a basis. The car is secured with chains. Most often, this design is used for minor repairs. But, at the same time, the structure of frame stocks is more complicated than others. Clamps are mounted in them, which allow you to fix the car body in the required position or even raise it to a certain height.

Platform models

The platform model is very similar to the trestle design. It allows you to pull the car body in any direction. A lot of different equipment can be installed on the slipway platform. Pulling on the platform is very convenient, and the functionality is enough to make professional repairs directly in the garage.

Tools and materials for creating a structure

We will need the following materials and tools:

metal profiles.
Extended profiles (needed for racks).
Metal corners.
Welding machine.
Bolts and nuts.
Fastening mechanisms.
Paint and primer.
Chains and hooks.
Hydraulic equipment.

Airbrush.
Power stand.

Step by step instructions for building

The construction of any home-made structures begins with the design stage. You need to make a slipway that is convenient to use. It is important that it does not take up too much space, blocking free movement.

The second point is always the creation of a structure frame. The last point is the installation of fasteners and do-it-yourself tightening devices.
Drawings and dimensions

First you need to make suitable drawings. Ready-made options can be found below. Marking is done according to the dimensions of the vehicle. Then the stage of preparation and selection of tools and materials begins. We will also need to make a sufficiently large fastening system that would be suitable for our transport. It will be good to cook it with the ability to change the height.

Once all the drawings are ready, and the materials are selected, you can get to work. First you have to remove moisture from the materials and cover them with a primer. You can paint them right away, or you can leave this step for last.

Now weld metal corners to the base profile.

Weld the profile (this will be a stand). It is secured with bolts.

Now chains, hooks and retractable devices are welded.

Frame manufacturing

The frame is responsible for fixing the car. Therefore, you need to be careful when creating it.

Before creating the frame, you must create the outer frame. It is to him that the frame will be mounted.

A metal profile is suitable as a material. A rack and grippers are attached to it (they are needed to fix the threshold of the car).

Now thresholds are being made. They are made from metal corners.

Thresholds are installed on beams, fixed with bolts.

After installation, you will have to fix all the elements by welding.

Fastening the body to the slipway

Clamps are required for fastening. If you can't buy them, make your own. You will need railway platforms (what rails are attached to the sleepers). Each of the platforms is cut in half, and metal is welded onto the inside. It is cut into diamonds using a grinder.

You don't have to do anything with the outside. A plate is also welded to the inside - 4 millimeters thick. It is important that the clamping device fixes the threshold and does not bend during use.

Installing the rack and pulling devices

Factory hydraulic attachments are suitable for racks and devices. If they cannot be bought, a homemade mechanism will do. The power of the device should be from 1 to 2 tons. An overlay is needed to attach pulling devices. It is made from a channel and installed in the frame of the slipway. To put the tightening mechanism and chains in any place, it is necessary to make holes in the frame throughout the slipway.

Making a slipway is not so difficult. If you have basic knowledge in construction, you can easily do everything yourself. The main thing is to choose the right material and make the right drawings.

On our forum, and on the forums of our auto repair friends, questions constantly pop up on the manufacture of a slipway for body repairs in your garage. Many try to make it with their own hands, but sometimes new knowledge is required, solutions to possible errors and you have to seek help from your colleagues.

Usually, two versions of home-made stocks are considered: mobile and stationary (concrete floor).

In this article, I tried to compile useful information from our forum, including: tips, drawings, photos for making a slipway and give an impetus to those who are not yet fully confident in their abilities and are afraid to start making it on their own.

Mobile homemade slipway

Here is such a slipway made by our forum member Yevsey.

The design of the light and mobile Finnish slipway Autorobot micro A was taken as a basis.

The main materials used in the manufacture of steel channel No. 10 and No. 12.

Below in the photo are the main nodes of the slipway.

Swing lock
crossbar crossbar
crossbar crossbar
power tower power tower

An important detail of the slipway is the grips of the rapids, a kind of vise. For their manufacture, sheet steel with a thickness of 16 mm was used. Threshold grip width 150 mm, tightening bolts 12, and bushings 14 mm. The springs were used from the classic Vase valves. "Sponges" of captures are made of a rasp on metal.

To work with this slipway, hydraulics from a set designed for 10 tons are used.
Here is such a chain lock located on the draft tower (boom) of the slipway, as well as how the threshold grips work.

Staple at work:

But actually the scheme itself with the dimensions of the slipway.

To simplify the work, special coasters were welded with the arrival of a car on them in front or behind, and it became easier and much faster to bring the slipway under the belly of the car.

This design of the slipway has the ability to put a fixture to pull down. To do this, you need to upgrade it a bit by placing a sliding roller under the chain links.

Cons and pros of this do-it-yourself slipway design. It may be worth considering them if you repeat this or a similar design.

Cons and improvements:

There are only two thresholds and there is no height adjustment.
The lock for turning the boom horizontally: there was iron 5 mm, you need at least 10-15 mm.
During the operation, weak points began to come out, which were strengthened.
The length of the telescopic boom is, in principle, redundant, so you can make it shorter.
How to hook the car to the thresholds from below with these grips, if they do not have flanging, for example, a BMW-type car? To do this, you will need special adapters that cost quite a lot of money (there are homemade options).

Pros:

Both a plus and a minus can be considered the mobility of the slipway and the ability to turn it in different directions, but in a small garage, there will be a problem with movements.
On the other hand, not every car repair requires the use of a slipway, and in this case it can simply be rolled out of the garage. And for a small garage, it will be more practical to make a stationary slipway (we'll talk about it a little lower).

In general, beauty, the car stands dead on the slipway, the hydraulics pull exceptionally easily, as if you are not pulling iron, but cardboard or paper. Before that, I used an ordinary winch, so I can compare and say that this is heaven and earth. The slipway has established itself as a real hard worker, its rating is 5 plus, it is very mobile and reliable.

As one of the options for a small homemade slipway for use in the garage, below in the video from Boris AvtoDok, where he talks in detail about his design.

In the second video, the errors identified already during the work, how he corrected them and what alterations he made.

Stationary floor slipway in the garage

And now, we have smoothly moved to a stationary slipway, or, as it is also called, a floor one.
Here is a statement by Yevsey, the author of a do-it-yourself mobile slipway and which we talked about in the first part of our article:

If I had initially built this garage for body repair, then I would have concreted the channels along the inspection pit for its entire length, and to these channels I would have anchored the grippers to the thresholds of the car. And the traction boom would also be attached to anchor fasteners.
I would also put channels or rails into the walls, that is, I would weld a kind of cage so that it would be possible to pull in any direction simultaneously in several directions. Then I think it would be possible to undertake repairs of any complexity.

What is the most important thing in a slipway? The most important thing is that you can securely fix the car and even then it can be pulled in any direction, of course, if the slipway design allows.

I can’t offer drawings for such a slipway, because. I don’t have my own, but for every master, if the slipway is not purchased, but made with his own hands, then he made it according to the principle of his vision of the situation (tasks to be solved, source materials, garage sizes, finances and other “Wishlist”).

Basically, these are channels welded and embedded in concrete with a cut for fastening various fixtures (threshold grips, “tower”).
Some car repairmen make a whole cube from channels throughout the entire volume of the garage. Such a kind of slipway allows you to pull the body in any direction and at any angle. Of course, this solution is the most convenient, but very expensive.

The design of a homemade floor slipway in a video from Ivan from Nizhny Novgorod. Video in three parts.

Part one is the overall design and budget.

Part two - Benefits.

Part three - Drawings and full alignment.

If you are going to make a floor slipway with your own hands, then approach this issue thoughtfully and purposefully. Sketch out a sketch depending on the size of your garage and the intended work, decide on the list of necessary materials, think about how and where you can save.

It will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the various designs of home-made stocks, of which you can find plenty on the Internet. And take the best from them, taking into account the mistakes and shortcomings - learn from the mistakes of others!

How much will it cost to buy a slipway or leveling stand? At least 50 tyr. In this case, this slipway will be suitable only for work with light damage. For serious and complex work, you will need a stand or slipway with a much higher price, and it can be 10 or even 20 times higher than the price indicated above. I bring to your attention a small overview of the manufacture of a very powerful slipway with a budget that you yourself can determine. It all depends on the price of the metal, which can be purchased both at metal depots and at acceptances of ferrous metal. Basis 16th channel. Why 16th? Well, at least because the width of 2 welded channels allows almost any car to freely drive into it, and this is important, but in terms of strength, this slipway will give odds to any factory one.

The idea of creating a slipway was taken from the Internet, in particular from Vitaly Kakhovka. Dimensions 4.5 by 1.85. Why is this? Because it's normal size. And the point. One of the biggest advantages of this slipway is that it can be put in a standard garage, or any other room in which it fits. Unlike similar frame construction slipways, this slipway does not have the so-called “geese” (as in the photo), which increase the working area both in front and on the side by a sufficiently large distance, which does not allow using such a slipway in an ordinary garage.

For the manufacture of the slipway, 46 meters of the 16th channel were purchased. Moreover, half was found at the acceptance, which reduced the cost of it by several tyr. 20 meters was purchased at 25 rubles per kg. at the acceptance of black metal, and the rest was bought at a metal base at a price of 570 rubles per meter.

The channel was immediately marked and cut to size.

The length of the extreme ones is 4.5 m. The length of the middle ones is 3.76 and the length of the jumpers is 1.5 m. Then the channel was assembled into boxes and tightened with clamps. Tacked at the joints at several points. After welding 2 boxes of 4.5 meters each to eliminate the deflection on the boxes, they were again tightened with clamps and pieces of the 12th channel with holes had to be welded to them and the boxes were tightened with bolts. After that, the boxes were welded with tacks to each other, so that they would not be deformed during welding. Later they will be cut. After that, the boxes were scalded more thoroughly. Without special markings, by eye, with tacks of 4-6 cm in 10-20 cm.

After welding all the channels into blanks, in the form of boxes, half of the blanks are set aside. We lay out on the floor the outer contour of the slipway from boxes 4.5 meters long (namely, the slipway will be of this length) and internal, more precisely perpendicular boxes 1.5 meters long. I set the horizontality with the help of a level, placing under the box the thickness of wood chips or metal scraps that was required. Also, before welding the first outer contour of the slipway, the diagonals were measured several times with a tape measure. After that, the boxes were welded (with tacks at the corners and the center, as well as at the inner corners and centers) to each other into a rectangle. Then this design was turned over 180 * and tacked from the back side at all corners. Then all joints were scalded thoroughly. After that, the first contour of the frame was again turned 180 * and scalded. After that, we proceed to the assembly of the inner part of the slipway. To do this, we have 2 boxes of 1.5 m each, the same as the outer boxes. We grab them to a long box, stepping back from the outer box 6 cm.

We do the same with the other side.

Why 6 and not 4 or 8? Don't know. I decided that less and more is not worth doing. Yes, and longitudinal blanks - the boxes were already measured and cut off exactly for this gap, as it was intended. Then again we repeat the procedure for turning the future slipway 180 * and scald the lower part. Then turn over again and brew the upper part.

After that, we insert the inner longitudinal boxes and, also stepping back 6 cm from the outer boxes, we grab them in the newly welded transverse boxes.

The process is repeated one more time. We turn the slipway 180 * and scald. Then turn over again on the front side and scald completely. (The vertical walls were also scalded in a horizontal position, because I cannot weld the vertical seams with high quality). Why am I doing this? In addition, the slipway for a couple of days went up and down many times with a winch. Although, it was probably worthwhile to make something like a rotating platform on 2 bases before that. It would make it easier. Anyway. The slipway is welded. What slipway without legs? Nope, this is some kind of legless horse, and you won’t be able to fix anything on it. For the legs, I decided to use nuts, the largest I found in the store. I don’t remember, probably 24. Well, with them bolts, 15 cm long, for future adjustment of the slipway in relation to the horizon. The nuts were welded on the corners of the slipway.

We are starting to manufacture fixtures for attaching a car to a slipway, as well as for pulling and pushing.

I made the clamping jaws even before the start of welding the slipway. I can’t advise you to make just such ones, because I haven’t pulled a single patient on my “operating table” yet. I hope they don't let me down. I made them from 2 railway platforms for attaching rails to sleepers. Having cut it in half, I welded half of the old Soviet file on each. Camping welded dots on the inside, which I then turned into rhombuses with the help of a grinder. I decided not to weld anything on the outer part so that the thresholds of the car from the outside remain intact. I welded a plate onto the inner edge of the platform, approximately the thickness of the clamping jaw, so that when the jaws are tightened, the upper, clamping part does not warp, but evenly clamps the threshold flange.

For the manufacture of racks with clamps, on which the clamping jaws will be welded and on which the car will be installed, as well as devices for extracting, clamps and hooks, metal was purchased at metal acceptance with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm. For the manufacture of racks (let's call them paws), I used centimeter metal, cutting out from the acquired platform with a width about 20 cm and a length in width of 2 channels and a gap. i.e. 36-38 cm, as well as vertical racks, 30 cm high .

Transverse jib reinforcements were cut from the same metal.

After welding the 2nd vertical rack to the platform, I realized that it’s not worth cooking like that, because the platform itself bends from welding. Then I had to unbend the platform with a sledgehammer, placing wooden blocks under the edges, and lower the vertical rack between the slipway boxes (although the slipway had to be lifted and placed on wooden logs so that the rack did not reach the floor). But to be honest, it didn't help much. I had to weld their lower platforms together with tacks, clamping them with clamps and only after that weld the transverse scarves. The remaining 2 paws were cooked immediately by welding them with tacks between themselves.

Then, from separately purchased KAMAZ (thickness 15 mm.) Fragments and scraps of springs, upper clamps were cut, 20-25 cm long, with a slight offset from the center, holes for KAMAZ bolts were burned in them fixing the head to the cylinder block (16mm), i.e. what I could quickly find, durable and not subject to deformation and thread stripping. Pieces of the 12th reinforcement are welded along the edges, for the same purposes as on the clamping jaws, so that there is no distortion when clamping. I used 20 mm as mortgages (lower stops into which bolts are inserted). a metal strip with pre-existing holes in it. I just had to cut them into pieces. 8 for paws and a few more for amplifiers. (Later you will understand).

The next step was to weld the body clips to the uprights. I don't have a photo, but I'll try to explain.

At first, ready-made racks were bolted to the slipway, which was previously set on the level. I screwed them to approximately those places on the slipway, on which they will subsequently stand. Clamping all 4 paws, he measured one height with a level, to which the clamping jaws were welded, which were first tightened with clamps, tacked by welding, and then, after removing the paws from the slipway and laying them in a horizontal position, welded to the paws from all sides.

The dimensions of my paws are indicated above, the width of the jaws was taken arbitrarily, i.e. based on the availability of material, and as I already wrote, the clamps were made from railway platforms and welded file halves. Bolts for clamps at 16. Holes in the jaws, previously, temporarily tacked by welding at the ends to each other to maintain alignment, were drilled on a drilling machine. But once again I want to focus your attention on the fact that all sizes are arbitrary and were taken on the basis that there would be as little scraps as possible from the available metal. I think that sponges can and should be made with a width not less than mine, but better than a larger one. Bolts and, accordingly, holes for tightening the jaws may need to have more and their diameter should also be larger. And it is possible to use factory clamps (which are commercially available) even better, but this is again an expense.

Ready slipway in front of you.
Well, that's all for today. Next time I will tell you how to make different devices and devices for stocks.

РќСЂР°РІРёС‚СЃСЏ

Types of stocks

There are four types of structures in total, each of which is used in certain conditions. Some types of equipment can be made independently. How are the slipways used today characterized?

Rolling

Differ in a possibility of use for restoration of a body of the most various cars. The devices available on the slipway allow you to fix the car without flanging the thresholds. Rolling equipment is compact, so it can be used in a limited space - that is, it makes sense to make a slipway for body repair with your own hands to install it in the garage. The disadvantage of this equipment is that it cannot be used in the presence of distortions and changes in the geometry of the body.

floor standing

It assumes the presence of a rail along which retractable devices move. This design helps to carry out repairs of varying complexity, as the mechanisms move to any point on the slipway. Advantages of outdoor equipment:

relatively low cost;
operational installation;
small footprint;
ease of manufacture: you can make a floor slipway for body repair with your own hands;
if necessary, you can remove the retractable devices and use the floor (the rails are on the same level with it) to accommodate equipment or other purposes.

The downside is the inconvenience of measuring individual elements of the body and its general geometry.

frame

It uses a metal frame on which the machine is fixed by means of chains. Despite the fact that such stocks are used when correcting not too severe damage, structurally frame equipment is more complex. The fixation of the body at the desired height and in the required position is carried out by means of clamps, and the deformed part is straightened by chains connected to a power hydraulic device.

To simplify lifting, auto frame slipways are often used in conjunction with scissor lifts. The advantages of these designs:

access to the car bottom and various elements located below;
the ability to perform body work at different heights.

Frame stocks do not take up much space, however, serious deformations cannot be corrected with their help, since the number of exhaust points is small. Therefore, it makes sense to use such structures during straightening and other simple damage.

Stages of manufacturing a slipway

The most popular platform or frame structures. This is due to the simplicity of their manufacture, compact dimensions and relatively large functionality. Finding suitable drawings on the Internet today is not difficult. The best option is to measure the finished factory slipway and focus on its design. Here the main requirement is the dimensions, which must correspond to the area of \u200b\u200bthe workshop or garage. The recommended dimensions of the slipway are 4.5 × 1.85 m. Externally, this is a structure where one frame is inserted into another.

Necessary tools and materials

You will need a welding machine, a hydraulic device, a grinder, a drill with drills, an airbrush or paint brushes. From the materials you need to purchase:

profile pipe 40 × 80 mm (calculate the length in accordance with the drawing, taking into account the jumpers) with a thickness of 4 mm;
metal for making scarves (thickness 4 mm);
clamping devices (you can buy factory ones, but if this is not possible, then how to make them yourself will be described below);
bolts, nuts;
primer;
regular or powder paint.

Frame manufacturing

First, the outer frame is welded from the profile, then the inner frame is attached to the finished structure. It is necessary to boil from above and below, turning the structure over. Do not forget to use kerchief reinforcements at the corners of the structure to increase its rigidity. If you have doubts about the strength of the frame, weld a pair of cross beams in the middle. When the frame is ready, it is necessary to attach legs to it from below in order to adjust the horizontal position of the device. To do this, you can use bolts 15 cm long and nuts 24, which are welded at the corners of the structure. If you wish, install wheels instead of hardware - you get a mobile slipway. This makes sense if you have a perfectly flat floor or you put the structure on rails that are in a strictly horizontal position.

Devices for fastening the body to the slipway

If it is not possible to purchase ready-made clamping clamps, then they can be made independently from the railway platforms, through which the rails are attached to the sleepers. Cut each of them in half and weld metal on the inside, which, using a grinder, cut into rhombuses. Leave the outer side as is, so that when installed on the thresholds of the car, their outer side is not damaged. Weld a 4 mm thick plate on the inside as well. This is necessary so that the clamping part evenly fixes the threshold and does not warp.

Making racks, or paws, and upper clamps

You will need steel 1 cm thick. Cut out rectangles 200 mm wide and 350 mm long. Weld vertical racks 300 mm high to the resulting platforms, do not forget about triangular reinforcing braces made of the same metal. For the manufacture of upper clamps with a length of 200 - 250 mm, it is best to use fragments from KAMAZ springs 1.5 cm thick. You need to burn holes in them for mounting bolts.

As the latter, use hardware that secures the cylinder head with a diameter of 16 mm. These are strong enough products that do not allow thread breakage. Weld 12 mm reinforcement from the edges - it will guarantee the absence of distortions when fixing the body.

Clamp welding

Align the frame strictly on the level to ensure its horizontalness. Further:

attach the uprights to the frame with bolts and nuts;
set the height with a level: paws should be on it;
focusing on it, weld the clamping clamps.

The last stage is the cleaning of the structure from rust, primer treatment, followed by painting.

Installing the rack and pulling devices

Here you can use factory hydraulic devices or a home-made mechanism. In any case, the capacity should be 1.5 - 2 tons. To fasten the pulling structures, use an overlay made of a channel and installed on the frame of the slipway. So that the pulling mechanism and chains can be placed at any point, drill holes in the frame around the entire perimeter of the structure.

If you prefer a homemade rack design, a tower device is better. Although it is heavier than other varieties, it provides uniform traction over the entire height.

Such a rack can be placed in close proximity to the body, while the power cylinder does not interfere during operation (the rod comes out from behind).

Using a standard hydraulic pump is not the best solution. It is much more reliable to make such a unit from a jack with a lifting capacity of 8 tons. You will have to upgrade the central cylinder, replacing it with a suitable tube. This is necessary to increase the volume of the poured liquid by 300 - 400 ml. In the upper part of the jack, near the fitting, make a breather (you can use a grease gun bent at 90 degrees). And to make it more convenient to work, instead of a bypass bolt, which requires a key, install a “butterfly” that is turned off by hand.

Examination

To do this, place a slipway under the car that needs repair. Jack up one side. Now, with the help of the adjusting screws, fit the paws under the thresholds, lower the machine onto the clamps and tighten them well. And so with the other two paws. Jacks can be removed.

conclusions

Self-manufacturing of a slipway is an economically profitable business. In addition, it is not so difficult to build a structure, adhering to the above recommendations, especially if you have the skills of a locksmith and a welder. In addition to the multiple difference in price compared to factory samples, you will soon be able to justify your expenses: body repairs are a rather expensive service.

The design is used in complex repair work, when it is necessary to bring the dimensions of the body to the desired parameters. The slipway operates due to a power device with a stretching capacity of not more than 10 tons.

Depending on the degree of damage to the car, different types of slipway are used:

floor;
platform;
frame.

Designs differ in the principle of operation. Simple inexpensive stocks are designed for simple restoration work. Professional body stands serve for long-term reconstruction.

Types and features of stocks

There are a lot of varieties of slipways, and each of them belongs to a specific group:

Floor stand for body repair: is a large-sized mobile system. The movement is carried out along the laid rails. The use of a floor slipway is relevant for the restoration of cargo and passenger bodies of any degree of deformation. The kit for the floor stand includes clamps, a straightener with a pneumatic mechanism, reinforced stands. Despite the size of such a device, it does not take up much space, and with its simple space with rails, it can be used for other purposes, because their level is the same as the floor. The rectifier can function in either direction, which facilitates the repair process. The average cost of such a product varies from 125 thousand to 360 thousand rubles.
Platform slipway: comes complete with rails and access bridge. Equipped with a winch and a mobile unit for vehicles that do not have functioning wheels. “The support legs have a reliable hydraulic mechanism, which guarantees a long service life.” Fastening beams have the ability to move structures weighing more than 20 tons in any direction. The platform slipway makes more accurate calculations and determines errors thanks to the telescopic scale. The cost of such a device is 300 thousand rubles or more.
Frame bench for body repair: in comparison with other types of restoration stands, it has a high ergonomics and economy of working space. In particular, this is due to the presence of a car lift. The slipway securely fixes the machine and straightens it according to the specified parameters. The pressure on the body is exerted by the hydraulics of the power device. Due to the insufficiently strengthened alignment system, the frame slipway cannot perform complex restoration work, but is relevant for minor body damage. The cost of the device is 70 thousand rubles or more.

Frame slipway for quick repairs

The equipment comes standard with:

Fixing elements for fastening the flanging to the rectifier.
Fortified columns.
Hydraulic pump.
Pull-out mechanism with multiple locking points.
Clamps for body work.
Reinforced chain.

The quick repair slipway is equipped with a reinforced flanging grip, which ensures that there is no risk of the vehicle slipping off the platform. With such a device, you can easily correct minor impacts to the side parts of the car, without necessarily fixing the car to the floor.

The model provides for the possibility of limiting the movement of rotary parts due to locking structures on hinges. The main column is smoothly adjustable in a vertical position in any direction of thrust, which reduces the time of restoration work. The workflow goes like this:

Raising the car to the desired level and fixing special blockers under the wheels.
Putting the car on the repair platform.
Supply of clamps for flanging and fixing to the ramp.
The reinforced column is installed in the right place with the help of a hinge.

The weight of this design does not exceed 400 kg, the tower can tilt 90 degrees.

Stabilizer for correcting the geometry of the body

Violation of the geometry of the body often leads to a dangerous situation on the road. The slightest deviation of the geometry from the norm causes such phenomena as skidding, poor corner entry, etc. In any technical documentation, control points are indicated, by which experts determine the correct geometry of the car and, accordingly, the parameters of its distortion.

It is carried out with the help of a slipway, which pulls it into place with a power mechanism. Do-it-yourself body geometry restoration is carried out using factory equipment and a self-assembled device.

The features of the stocks include:

The presence on the platform of 4 anchor racks installed anywhere in the elongated groove.
The traction force of the columns is up to 10 tons.
The full lift provides smooth adjustment of the entire platform.
Access ramps available.

Do-it-yourself slipway for body repair

The slipway is a complex repair equipment that requires professional skills, both with the operation of the device and with assembly. Do-it-yourself slipway is made from standard fixtures:

Metal profile 150 cm long with a section of 40x80 mm.
A steel longitudinal profile with a section of 20x40 is suitable for support posts.
Corners will be needed for welding to the racks.
Welding machine.
Bolts and nuts of fine thread.
Fasteners (best suited from foreign cars).
Anticorrosive epoxy primer.
Powder paint, spray gun.
Bolts M10.
Hydraulic device with a thrust level of at least 4 tons.
Strong chain with a hook.

To assemble the slipway, drawings are needed to do everything right. Without them, problems and inconsistencies in parts may arise.

Drawings can be found online. The construction of the slipway elements takes place as follows:

Corners with bolt holes must be welded to a metal profile serving as a transverse beam. Get a rack with grips. If a slipway is required for one machine, then all holes must be made according to individual parameters.
Longitudinal steel profile - racks - it is better to strengthen the corners. This is required for the correct capture of the thresholds of the car. The minimum stand height is 25 cm.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to paint. Suitable and, but the first option is better and more reliable:

All elements of the future slipway must be cleaned and degreased, and then resistant to corrosion.
After priming the car repair tool, you should wait until it is completely dry.

After that, the installation process continues:

All racks are recommended to be fixed with M10 bolts. They serve well when working with hydraulics of any level of traction.
The resulting slipway must be placed in the working space, taking into account the minimum parameters: a passenger car must fit freely on the stand, and there must be no foreign objects that interfere with the movement of the slipway.
In conclusion, it remains to attach the chains and grips.

How to make a slipway with your own hands, you ask: drawings, materials, auxiliary tools are freely available, so every car owner can assemble his own repair stand. There would be a desire.