Engine decarbonization ep6. Why ep6 engines don't work well

Engine decarbonization And piston rings- a procedure aimed at removing carbon deposits from parts of the piston group. Namely, cleaning from combustion products of low-quality fuel and oil from pistons, rings and valves. both with their own hands and at the service station, it is carried out using special means - chemical compounds, solvents and solvents. There are 4 ways to remove coke, three of which are carried out without opening the motor, and are exclusively a preventive measure. You can get rid of soot not only with a specially designed liquid, but also with tools prepared on your own. Moreover, both those and others will have good efficiency. The quality of decarbonization depends on the procedure, accuracy of execution and expediency in a particular situation.

Any decarbonization is good as prevention! Like oral hygiene in humans. It is best to produce it periodically, without bringing the engine to a critical state, when only a bulkhead can “reanimate”. Very relevant for German engines (VAG and BMW) prone to oil consumption.

To cope with such a task, you will have to study the list of popular tools that allow you to decarbonize, their characteristics, properties, reviews of real use, as well as the instructions for the procedure.

Why do you need decoking

The first logical question that arises among novice car owners is why decarbonize the engine at all? The second - how can you actually clean the CPG and KShM? Coking of the rings reduces their mobility, deposits on the piston reduce the volume of the combustion chamber, and soot on the valves does not allow them to work properly, which leads to oil consumption, scuffing on the cylinder walls, a decrease in engine power, valve burnout, and as a result -. Therefore, the main task of decoking is to remove carbon deposits on top of the piston, stir up the rings and clean the oil channels.

Such a regular procedure will eliminate the malfunctions resulting from the appearance of deposits. In particular, detonation will disappear and a slight spread of compression across the cylinders will even out. But in order to get rid of the bluish, typical one, you will also have to eliminate the cause of the fuel and lubricant entering the combustion chamber.

One of the chemicals belonging to the so-called “soft” or “hard” groups of raskoskovok will help to cope with the products of the deposit. It is worth noting that each of them has both its pros and cons.

10 best decarbonizers

Taking into account only the results of real use and cost, and not advertising campaign, we will compile a list of 10 products from different price categories, applications and methods of dealing with carbon deposits. Note that all of them are suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines, since there is no fundamental difference. Maybe just a layer of soot, more or less.

So, what kind of decarbonization is better to choose from all those on the market? Tests that showed good results and the number of positive reviews made it possible to build popular tools in this order:

Means	Price	Decarbonization method	Method	Application	Application area	Additional procedures
Mitsubishi SHUMMA	1500r.	rough	chemical	without opening	piston group
Gzox	500r.	soft	chemical	without opening	piston group	Need an oil and filter change
Kangaroo ICC300	400r.	soft	chemical	without opening		Need an oil and filter change
XADO Verylube	800r.	rough	chemical	without opening>	piston top and rings	you need to change the oil and filter, and a drop of oil in the cylinders
Greenol REANIMATOR	900r.	tough	chemical		piston top and rings	need to change the oil and filter, as well as clean the sump
Lavr ML-202	400r.	rough	chemical	unopened and/or specific parts	piston top and rings	Need an oil and filter change
Edial	300r.	dynamic	chemical	without opening	piston group	without oil change, but with spark plug change
Acetone and kerosene	160 rub.	tough	chemical/mechanical	without opening and with opening	piston and rings	better effect if mixed 1:1 + engine oil. And last 12 hours.
Dimexide	150r.	tough	chemical	without opening	piston top and rings	only works at 50-80℃
Plate cleaner	300r.	tough	chemical/mechanical	with autopsy	piston and rings	keep no more than 5 minutes

* We did not include solvents that are added as an additive to the fuel for cleaning nozzles (the exception is Edial, because this is really decarbonization), since their effect on soot is minimal, the action is mainly aimed at cleaning nozzles, and not parts of the piston group. There is also 204-SURM-NM, it is poured into the fuel and into the cylinders, but there is very little data about it to draw objective conclusions.

** We also want to separately note that we did not include in the rating those decarbonizers that are poured in as an additive to oil (BG-109, LIQUI MOLY Ol-Schlamm-Spulung or Ormex), since their action is effective only in combination, and they wash tanned pistons to no avail.

Hydroperit with water, which some experimenters try to use to remove carbon deposits from pistons, is not recommended. Not only will he not fully cope with this task, but there is also a lot of trouble (you need to connect a dropper to the intake manifold). Hydrogen peroxide can be used as a handy throttle body cleaner. This is the situation with professional solvents, you need skills, otherwise you can get a water hammer.

Cleaning the piston

So, as you can see, not all advertised decarbonizers are universal and worth attention. Only the first three products that are poured into the cylinders will help to cope with coked rings and improve the situation with oil consumption. Others will not give such a joyful effect, especially when the situation is neglected. And if we talk about economic means, then it is better to use them only directly for cleaning pistons, valves or an engine block during overhaul, but not for decoking the engine when oil consumption and compression decrease occur. Because they very aggressive and can corrode paint, aluminum pistons, or the engine block.

In order to understand why, and to learn more about each product, check out the characteristics, application features and reviews of car owners who once tested one or another liquid designed to remove carbon deposits from oil deposits.

Characteristics, features and reviews - rating of the best decarbonizers

Best results when soaking valves and pistons. Where the soot has not eaten away, it will become soft and can be easily removed mechanically.

Mitsubishi Shumma Engine Conditioner is the No. 1 Japanese engine decarbonizer according to the majority of both professional car repairmen and experienced drivers. Mitsubishi Noise Decarbonizer is a petroleum-based solvent, 20% ethylene glycol and mono-ethyl ether, smells like ammonia, is representative of a tough decarbonizer. This cleaner is an active foam designed to clean GDI (direct injection) engines, but actually removes carbon deposits in any engine. It is introduced into the cylinders through a tube. Aged for 30 minutes, but according to the recommendation, it is most effective with an exposure of 3 to 5 hours. It is not aggressive to valve stem seals.

One cylinder is enough only for decoking a 1.5 liter engine. Decoking agent copes with carbon deposits on pistons, rings, valves and combustion chambers. It can be used not only without disassembling the engine, it can also be used to soak parts of the piston group to remove sludge. The price of Shumma is more than huge, on average about 1,500 rubles for a standard 220 ml. balloon. In many regions of Russia, it can be quite difficult to buy. But such excitement is quite justified. And if its application has not yielded results, then it is safe to say that only repairs can already help. Order code - MZ100139EX.

Reviews

• There was an impressive oil consumption, but after a 2-hour stay in the piston, the situation improved significantly. By the way, they write that it is not necessary to change the oil, I advise you to change it anyway, since more than half of the liquid as a result of carbonization went into the crankcase
• I learned about Schumm's decarbonization from a video where tests were carried out using the example of removing carbon deposits from a valve. I decided to test it on my car, the rings lay down. And at the same time, I decided to clean the EGR. The tool coped with the task with a bang, probably everything was not so bad there.
• On my Mitsubishi Lancer, I had to add oil once a week. On the recommendation, I decided to use the original engine cleaner. After cleaning for five minutes trying to start the engine. There was a lot of smoke and sludge. As a result, the car drove a little more cheerfully, and for 500 km it took only 2 mm on the dipstick.
• There was a big detonation, knowledgeable people suggested that the valves were in soot. Acquired Noise, removed the inlet and popshikal on the intake valve, well, in the cylinders. After 30 minutes, upon inspection, I saw that they had really become clean. After the procedure, the engine stopped shaking, it took swimming speed. I want to warn you that a couple of drops got on the headlight and the body now has traces, I think only polishing can do it.

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• Pros:
• Fast and high-quality decarbonization of both rings and valves;
• Can clean deposits on pistons, throttles and EGR;
• It is used both without opening the motor, so it is possible to soak disassembled parts.

• Minuses:
• Very expensive;
• Although it doesn’t eat the paint in the pan, it leaves a muddy mark when it gets on a plastic headlight or body.

The effect of cleaning is almost similar to everyone's favorite Noise, only 3 times cheaper. So we can say that this is the best folk remedy for decoking motors.

Gzox Injection & carb cleaner is a chemical product developed by the Japanese company Soft99. Already from the name it is clear that it is intended for cleaning nozzles and carburetors, but it has also proven itself well when the engine is decoked. The instructions do not contain data on how to remove carbon deposits on the pistons, but do not be afraid to use it like other cleaning fluids poured into the combustion chamber.

Contains petroleum solvent and ethyl glycol. It creates an oily film on the surface, so despite being similar to the products from the hard decarbonizing section, the action is much softer. It is recommended to use as a preventive measure every 10 thousand km.

A can of 300 ml is enough for most cars with a 1.5 - 1.8 liter engine, and also enough for a V-shaped 6-cylinder engine. According to the test results, it showed that Gzoks perfectly cleans the piston from carbon deposits and is able to stir up the rings. But he still could not open the piston holes cemented with coke. Although the composition is almost similar to the leading one, it still loses a little in performance. More available for sale than Shumma. The average cost is in the range of 500-700 rubles. Code for ordering Gzoks - 1110103110.

Reviews

• It was possible to achieve a result in reducing oil consumption from 1 liter per thousand to a reasonable 100-200 ml. But since decoking with Gzoks is not the direct purpose of the agent, the main thing is to follow the sequence: apply to each cylinder for 5 seconds; the first hour to move the shaft every 15 pour; after 1 hour, add more leftovers; withstand the composition of 4-5 hours.
• In the public domain it was difficult to find, but the effort was worth it. Piston cleaned almost perfectly. Oil consumption was reduced by 4 times. After 15 thousand km I want to repeat again.
• There is experience in using Gzoks decarbonization on several types of engines (including VAG) = the result is positive in all cases of use (compression equalization, reduction of oil consumption, improvement of traction and consumption parameters).
• Excellent removal of carbonaceous deposits, pitches and other pollution. But keep in mind that in GZoks - ammonia, which "eats" Aluminum. Cast iron / steel - does not corrode.

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• Pros:
• It is used for cleaning the carburetor, throttle valve, injectors and decokes the rings;
• Soft effect on the piston;
• Enough to decoke a six-cylinder engine.

• Minuses:
• Does not decoke oil channels;
• In view of the turnover of popularity and the level of effect, the price in some stores is sometimes exorbitant.

The best available remedy. An analogue of Gzoksu, it costs less, but it also loses slightly in performance.

Kangaroo ICC300 EFI cleaner and carburetor made in Korea. Like the previous sample, GZox is not a tool specifically for decarbonizing, but nevertheless it does an excellent job with this task. But to open the oil channels with this liquid will not work. A great option to eliminate coking after a long car parking when the rings lie.

There are opinions that Kangaroo has a similar composition with top products because it also smells like ammonia, but this is not so. ICC300 cleaner is water based and has good emulsification (oil solubility), it contains: lauryl demethylamine oxide, 2-butoxyethanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol. It is poured exclusively on warmed up to 70 ℃, for the result it takes about 12 hours.

Low volatility and good at softening sludge. As a result of penetration into the oil and short-term operation of the engine after decoking, it favorably affects the flushing of the oil system. To combat deposits of petrified varnish on pistons, Gzoks is slightly worse, but the price is lower, on average it can be bought for 400 rubles. Article for ordering 300 ml. cylinder - 355043.

Reviews

• I bought Kangaroo ICC 300 and decided to immediately check it in action. Arranged a small test - sprinkled on soot on the oil filler neck. Foam formed and everything flowed. Now it shines like new, I am very surprised that the action is so fast.
• I sprayed kangaroo icc300 directly into the removed intake. To clean nozzles and valves. I let the liquid sour for about 10 minutes, then I start to slowly turn the KV so that the kangaroo enters the combustion chamber and wait another 20 minutes. From the traces on the fabric, I saw that a lot of coke was washed out, but I did not see any changes in the operation of the engine.
• There was a slight detonation, after I zapped with the Kangaroo cleaner everything stabilized.
• For 200 km of run after decarbonizing with Kangaroo ICC300, the engine began to work noticeably quieter, a little livelier for acceleration and somehow easier to go. But with oil consumption, the situation worsened after 2000 km.

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• Pros:
• Cheaper than other good decoking agents;
• One cylinder can clean the throttle and carbon deposits on the pistons;
• It cleans the oil system well with the amount that seeps under the rings.

• Minuses:
• weak effect at room temperature.

Decarbonizing VeryLube(XADO) anticoke refers to a chemical method for removing burnt oil deposits. This aerosol is designed to quickly clean cylinders, pistons and combustion chambers from all types of contaminants (carbon deposits, coke, varnishes, resins), as well as restore mobility to the rings of gasoline and diesel engines. But in fact, it barely copes with cleaning the pistons, not to mention the oil channels. Hadovsky anticoke is much worse than the previous ones, but if used on a slightly coked engine, then it is quite worthy of attention. In at least 7 out of 10 cases, when there is a slight discrepancy in the compression readings across the cylinders, it helps. The first start after decarbonization will be very difficult.

An interesting feature of VERYLUBE Anticoke is that it can be used to flush the engine oil system. Therefore, the manufacturer assures that after application it does not require an engine oil change. The consequences after such a procedure have not been studied. So given the dilution of the oil, it is still better to change it as in other cases of applying the hard method.

Contains detergent-dispersant components, aliphatic hydrocarbons. Although safe for rubber products, the manufacturer still recommends avoiding contact with the paintwork.

One can of 250 ml. enough for cleaning a 4-cylinder engine, the article of such a tool is XB30033, the average price in Moscow will be 300 rubles. As shown by real tests, this novelty does not perform well. But there are also other packages on sale, with a better effect, which, by the way, are positioned not as decoking of the engine, but of piston rings. Liquid anticoke 320 ml. based on 20 cylinders, but in fact a maximum of 8-10. Order code - XB40011 for 600 rubles. and a 10 ml blister. (dosage per cylinder) - XB40151 worth 130 rubles.

Reviews

• The motor “ate” a lot of oil, which indicates the obvious occurrence of the rings. BUT the use of the decoking agent Very Lub from Xado did not give a positive effect.
• I decarbonized the piston rings with Verylube Anticoke spray according to the instructions. As a result, at the first start, the smoke was all over the yard, with incomprehensible flakes from the exhaust at high speeds. The engine began to work more stable (small dips and flooding disappeared).
• He did a decoking for prevention. Engine 3.5L V6, oil consumption was 300-500g per 5000km. I knew about foam products like Shuma or Gzoks, but they cost more and are not so easy to buy, so I used VeryLube Anticox, which, although not the most effective, is working and cheap. The decoking procedure must be repeated several times. I did it 2 times, poured the product for 30 minutes, 1 bottle was enough. I am satisfied with the result, the compression has almost leveled off.

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• Pros:
• There is a choice according to the required volume;
• Used to clean pistons when opening the motor;
• You can immediately flush the engine oil system.

• Minuses:
• Poorly effective with strong coking;
• The procedure must be repeated several times in a row.

Professional quickly but not safely removes carbon deposits, washes the piston, restores the mobility of the rings and is able to soften deposits in the oil outlet channels. This Russian product for removing carbon deposits and varnish deposits does not meet international environmental safety standards.

Grinol decarbonizer is active but aggressive. The chemistry contains powerful solvents, namely: selective organic, refined petroleum distillates, functional additives. The owner of cars with a pallet painted inside should refrain from using it. It also adversely affects the valve stem seals (the rubber bands simply swell 2 times, but fortunately they can recover overnight).

Greenol will be enough to flush most engines, including V6s, since the volume of its bottle is 450 ml, which is much larger than most decarbonizers on the market. It copes with average coking by 5 minus. To achieve the maximum effect, not only do you need to decoke on a warm engine, but also pour 50-80 ml at once (or how much will go in), and top up in the process of evaporation and seepage.

Reviews

• Before flushing, the engine was troiled and one candle was filled with oil. I spent an hour and a half on the procedure. Now it works smoothly.
• For a week there was a burning smell in the cabin from chemistry. Apparently burned, but it's a trifle.
• The car stopped smoking. Stopped eating a lot less. The compression has risen and leveled off, it works smoother until I found no minuses. I'm thinking of cracking it again.
• After the first 1,000 km of Greenol decoking, the oil level is still at its maximum. And before that, the consumption was 300 grams.
• Very powerful was the bitter experience of peeling the paint and clogging its oil receiver mesh: (You need to handle it carefully!

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• Pros:
• A large volume is enough to decoke a 3.5 liter engine;
• Good when using individual parts (valves, cylinders).

• Minuses:
• Corrodes paint;
• Aggressive to rubber parts.

The most hyped domestic liquid for removing carbon deposits from pistons, its grooves and rings without disassembling the engine. But as real results show, its action at the level of acetone with kerosene is very mediocre. Although it creates a much more aggressive environment.

The product Lavr ML202 Anti Coks Fast belongs to the hard way of decoking. It is a complex of surfactants and directed solvents of different chemical nature. Designed to act on tar-coke and soot deposits. In the course of repeated tests, practice has shown that after Laurus, soot still remains. And the piston can be completely cleaned only mechanically. So, unfortunately, it does not have all the properties declared by the manufacturer.

Decarbonizing with LAVR necessarily requires an oil change, therefore it is recommended to use it before scheduled maintenance. The attached instructions, Lavr provides for pouring into cylinders of 45 ml. and literally for 30-60 minutes, but such a short period is maintained exclusively for express cleaning with regular use. But when the case is running, there are significant symptoms of sticking of the pistons and rings, then at least 12 hours are needed. The maximum stay of the liquid in the cylinder is no more than 24 hours. Indiscriminately cleans carbon deposits in the chamber and on the working surfaces of the pistons. Although this is not the main task of the application. The most important thing is to decoke the oil scraper rings. The amount of fluid is calculated for decoking a motor with a volume slightly above 2.0 liters. Article for ordering 185 ml - LN2502.

Reviews

• After advice on the effectiveness of decarbonization, the Lavr ML-202 on the forum decided to test it for myself on a Skoda with a TSI engine. Maslozher was almost a liter per thousand. The engine began to run quieter, but the reduction in oil consumption was short-lived.
• The car ran 150 thousand. I poured it into the cylinders and left all this slurry for 10 hours, as a result there was almost no effect. The remnants pumped out with a syringe turned brown slightly, and there was also little sludge on the rag when scrolling. The car really didn't want to start and the compression dropped from 15 to only 14 (with the prescribed 12 kgf / cm2). Of course, I didn’t look at the situation from the inside with an endoscope, but when I looked through it with a flashlight, I saw that the pistons weren’t particularly washed off.
• He decoked with laurel in front of the capital, in principle, an autopsy showed that the remedy was working.
• I tried LAVR on a Honda. Applied according to the instructions, left to sour for the night. After raskosvki the first attempts to start the engine were unsuccessful. After starting, white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe. Plus a characteristic stench. After changing the oil, I drove for 20 minutes at a speed of 120. As a result, the traction improved, starting the engine became easier.

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• Pros:
• No need to look for instructions for use, it comes with a syringe and a tube.

• Minuses:
• Exclusively prevention, therefore it is not effective for the occurrence of rings and oil consumption.

Decarbonizing EDIAL is a fuel additive, which is why it is referred to as a “soft” cleaning method. Therefore, you can not do an oil change, but it is still recommended to change the candles. The tool is designed to remove carbon deposits from the details of the combustion chamber.

Edial decarbonizer does not contain alkalis, acids or solvents. Unlike liquids poured directly into cylinders, it can not only remove coke from pistons and rings, but also clean valve seats and spark plugs from valve deposits. The drug contains active reagents and surface-active substances (surfactants), which have a huge penetrating power. But unfortunately, this still does not help him clean the rings and oil channels from varnish deposits.

One bottle of 50 ml in the calculation of 40-60 liters of fuel. And it can be both gasoline and diesel. Edial decarbonization is equally effective for these two types of engines. According to the characteristics declared by the manufacturer, it creates an active protection in the form of a thin film on the surface of the parts of the piston group, which prevents the appearance of carbon deposits. Activation of detergent additives occurs in motion over 60 km/h. You can buy from one of the official representatives of EDIAL products.

• Pros:
• No oil change required after application;
• Cleaning happens in motion;
• No special instructions are required.

• Minuses:
• Exclusively prevention that does not allow to stir up the rings if they lie down;
• You need at least half a tank of fuel in order to proportionally pour the agent and roll it out.

This is an old "grandfather" working method that worked quite well on VAZ engines with Soviet fuel and oil quality. But progress does not stand still. A mixture of kerosene and acetone is often enhanced with oil or other chemicals. Like decarbonization, laurel has a “hard” nature of cleaning from coke and varnish formations. To prepare a liquid, it should be assumed that it will take about 150 ml per cylinder. In the combustion chamber, as well as other means of this group, pour into a hot engine, and a small amount of oil will improve the effect, it will not allow it to evaporate quickly. Allows you to reduce oil consumption, improve dynamics, get rid of detonation caused by incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture.

It is imperative to change the oil, since Kerosene and acetone are aggressive to oil, therefore, after the procedure, it is imperative to change the lubricant. At the first start and gassing, for the period until the remains of the mixture and soot are burned, it is better to put in old candles so as not to spoil the new ones.

Decoke kerosene + acetone “cure” the occurrence of piston rings due to soot or after a long downtime of an immobilized car. And also in such a liquid they set the parts of the piston group to sour when cleaning deposits when the engine is disassembled for a major overhaul. Since a lot of cleaning agent is required, and the price of decarbonization is not small. Therefore, preparing a liquid with decoking properties is one of the best options to save the budget.

In order to decarbonize with acetone and kerosene, you need 250 ml each. each solvent, and then add engine oil. The mixing ratio is 50:50:25. In total, such a mixture will cost 160 rubles.

When a decent mileage remains behind the car and the engine has seen a lot on its way, it will not be superfluous to decoke the engine. Especially if the operation of transport takes place in the urban cycle, in conditions of endless traffic jams, when the engine overheats and the use of low-quality gasoline.

Increased oil consumption, while most likely the car will smoke.

Low compression in the cylinders (to find out, you need to measure the compression).

It is important to remember that if you have a strong wear of parts, then decarbonization will be powerless. There is only one way out in such a situation - repair. But such a repair is quite expensive because usually it is not possible to get rid of replacing only the rings. Since when disassembling the engine, you need to inspect other components along the way, and if necessary, replace them. Moreover, when the engine is no longer new, this is inevitable, and it is not rational to disassemble it only to replace the rings. And yet, decoking the engine can help you, so before you start repairing, try it.

First you need to decide what we will decoke. Decarbonization of the engine can be carried out both with special tools sold in the store, and with tools prepared independently.

An effective tool is ProTerra 100 Decarbonizing.

You can also use the old-fashioned way of preparing the remedy we need. We mix kerosene and acetone in a ratio of 1: 2. We are preparing our miracle remedy with the calculation of 100 - 150 ml per cylinder. This amount is chosen with the expectation that the mixture is very fluid. Immediately after filling, the mixture will slowly seep through the rings and drain into the crankcase, dissolving carbon deposits along the way. But it is still better to use a special tool, as it is more effective.

Let's start decoking.

Engine decoking method without overhaul:

1. Warm up the engine to a temperature of at least 50 C

2. Remove spark plugs

3. Pour "ProTerra 100 Decarbonizing" 30-60 ml into each cylinder

4. Cover the candle holes with a cotton cloth

5. Depending on the degree of coking, wait 1-4 hours, periodically turning the crankshaft

6. Remove cotton fabric from candle wells

7. Remove any remaining liquid with a syringe or blow with compressed air

8. Crank the engine with the starter for 5 seconds

9. Reinstall the removed elements from the engine

10. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes

11. Change engine oil with oil filter

Method for cleaning pistons and rings during overhaul:

1. Remove the piston with connecting rod from the engine

2. Install the pistons in a specially prepared container so that the upper part of the piston is at the bottom of the container

3. Pour "ProTerra 100 Decarbonizing" into the container so that the liquid covers the surface of the pistons to be cleaned, together with the rings

4. Close the container with a lid or plastic wrap

5. Keep the pistons in the container for 30-60 minutes

6. Pull out the pistons and remove loosened deposits with a hard brush and a plastic spatula

7. Wipe the part with a clean rag

8. Remains of contaminants in the channels of compression and oil scraper rings, clean with a stiff non-metallic brush and ProTerra 100, preventing the drug from drying on the piston surface

9. Rinse the cleaned piston with plenty of hot water, then blow with compressed air and lubricate with engine oil

1. The result can be improved if, before step 2, the piston is heated with hot water

2.When cleaning Teflon-coated pistons, the product may be diluted with water, but not more than 1/3

After all the work, the result will not be long in coming. As a result, we should get the following:

• increase and equalization of compression in all cylinders
• restoration of the former power and dynamics of the engine
• exhaust emissions reduction
• cold start improvement
• reduced oil consumption

In the end, I would like to remind you that we will achieve all these results only on the condition that all the wear of the cylinder-piston group is normal.

» We decoke the engine on our own

Engine decarbonization - for whom it is necessary

All drivers are conditionally divided into 2 categories: the first includes those who have straight arms and know what it means to “decoke” the engine on their own and why it is necessary; those drivers who belong to the second category, most likely did not even hear about it.

Engine decarbonization is one of the integral parts of repairing your car. Another reason for doing this process is that you will end up with more mileage before the overhaul. Therefore, if you have been repairing your car yourself for a long time and do not trust the service station, then you are probably familiar with this concept.

Most likely, if your car belongs to expensive models of foreign manufacturers, then you have never thought about such a thing as decarbonization. Perhaps you are accustomed to simply transfer your car into the hands of specialists and then pay for their services.

This article is aimed at those who, for all sorts of reasons, cannot afford such maintenance.

Engine decoking video

What is engine decoking?

This definition refers to the process of removing deposits in the form of soot or coke in the engine. The formation of such deposits cannot be avoided, because this is a natural process when the motor is running at certain intervals.

Everyone knows that an internal combustion engine functions through the use of fuels and lubricants during its operation, which are most often represented by gasoline and oil. It is these fuels and lubricants that are the sources of deposits. These include oil, gasoline and diesel fuel.

The main causes of engine coking

The main sources of engine coking are oil and fuel.

Little can enter the combustion chamber through small gaps in the oil scraper rings. Thus, the oil enters the combustion chamber, settles on the cylinders and pistons, where, under the influence of high temperatures, it cokes after a while. The speed of the deposit formation process is affected by how new the oil and engine of the car is.

In turn, the fuel enters the combustion chamber through the intake valve stems - it enters during the suction of the air-fuel mixture by the piston into the cylinders. Using this method, only a small amount of fuel enters the engine, but over time it also cokes and affects the operation of the engine.

used engine

At the beginning of the article, we considered the coking of the new engine. But if you are the owner of a car with a mileage of 90,000-100,000 kilometers, then not only oil scraper rings are worn out, the entire cylinder-piston group is worn out. Thus, the rate of coke formation becomes much faster.

The same principle applies to the gas distribution mechanism. In general, the first symptoms of a coked engine are smelly smoke and oily spark plugs. In this case, you need to decoke the engine as soon as possible.

In order to reliably find out the cause, it is necessary to think about the following factors:

1. If the oil consumption exceeds 300 grams at 1000 kilometers; at the same time, the mileage of a domestic-made car does not exceed 100,000 kilometers, and a foreign one - 200,000.
2. If, when inspecting the car, you find oil on the thread of the candles or the exhaust pipe smokes during a sharp regassing, this is a sure sign that the valve stem seals are leaking oil.

Oil seals cannot be repaired - they only need to be replaced. But if you are doing this for the first time, then it is better if you are supervised by a specialist.

There are other signs of engine coking:

1. The engine often overheats.
2. The motor often runs at idle.
3. Vehicle operation only in the urban cycle.
4. Use of low-quality or unsuitable engine oil for the engine.
5. Prolonged idle time of the car (in winter, after a traffic accident, long-term repairs, and so on).

Cylinder piston group

Let's take a closer look at the cylinder-piston group.

If your car has a worn-out cylinder-piston group, then you have only 2 options: the first option is to overhaul the engines with a complete replacement of rings, pistons, and so on. The second option is to decarbonize the engine - after that, your engine will be able to "run" an additional 50,000, 60,000 or even 70,000 kilometers. This value is affected by the degree of engine wear.

Is it necessary to do the decoking?

The short answer is no. But if you don't, your car's engine will need to be overhauled much sooner.

In turn, decarbonization cleans pistons, cylinders and other parts of the cylinder-piston group from coke and carbon deposits. Since the most important parts in this group, in addition to the piston, are also compression and oil scraper rings, a thorough decarbonization should also be carried out there.

In this case, do not forget about the grooves under these rings. Why? Because the soot that forms in them will “grow” over time to such a level that the rings will not be able to lie tightly in their place, which in turn will lead to poorer removal of oil from the cylinder walls, and may even stick there .

The more engine oil enters the combustion chamber, the more coke is formed in the cylinder, which leads to the occurrence of rings. Thus, if you are not yet able to overhaul the engine, but want to extend its life, then the brace process is a must.

We start decoking the engine

We will consider two ways of decoking the engine.

The first method involves the use of a chemical composition to soften and further remove soot. This chemical composition must be poured through spark plugs or injectors. This is a very effective method if the rings are completely covered with soot and it is almost impossible to start the engine. Before proceeding with the decoking of the motor, it is recommended to measure the compression.

Decoking the engine according to the first method:

1. Warm up the engine to 70-90 degrees.
2. Remove the spark plugs or, in the case of a diesel engine, the injectors.
3. Jack up the wheels and put chocks under them.
4. Shift to the last gear.
5. Rotate the drive wheel until the pistons are approximately in the middle position (a long screwdriver can help you measure this).
6. Depending on the volume of the cylinder, put 25 - 80 milliliters of a special chemical compound to decoke the engine.
7. Reinstall spark plugs or injectors.
8. Wait 1-2 hours. During this period, a chemical reaction will occur that will break down the soot. To improve the quality of this process, it is necessary to turn the drive wheel to the right and left by 15 degrees every 20 minutes, while performing 5 strokes in each direction. In this way, you contribute to a better flow of liquid into the rings. If you want to achieve maximum results, you can leave the car like this all night.
9. Remove spark plugs or injectors.
10. Pump out the dirty liquid remaining in the cylinders (using a syringe, for example).
11. Switch off the ignition system.
12. Check again if the wheels are jacked up and the last gear is engaged.
13. Crank the engine with the starter for 10 seconds - this way you will get rid of the remaining fluid.
14. Install the spark plugs and injectors, connect the ignition system and start the car.

At first, the car will be very difficult to start. Also, do not think about the unpleasant smell from the exhaust pipe - this is completely normal. Work in this mode for 10 minutes and then ride. The first 20 kilometers after your trip will emit acrid smoke. After such a short "mileage" it is necessary to replace the spark plugs with new ones. After the next 40-50 kilometers, it is imperative to change the engine oil, as the old one will adversely affect the performance of the car. The next stage of the test will come after 300 kilometers - you need to measure the engine compression again and compare the current readings with the past. The most important thing in this is the absence of a big difference in the performance of the cylinders.

The main disadvantages of this method are the large waste of money associated with the purchase of engine oil and new spark plugs. Another risk is the bursting of the rings - this happens if the rings were heavily coked. Also, you are wasting a lot of precious time.

There is also second way, with which you can decoke the engine. Its main advantages are less labor input, lower financial cost and it is not time-consuming at all.

The principle of this method is the gradual addition of special additives to fuel or engine oil. Subsequently, these chemicals will affect the coked areas of your engine. If you decide to add them to engine oil, then it is best to do this during an oil change - you will flush the oil system, and special additives will enter the engine along with the new oil. Also, this drug can be poured directly into the fuel tank, while the mode of operation itself will not change in any way. Once again, we emphasize the advantages of the second method:

1. There is no need to change the engine oil.
2. There is also no need to replace spark plugs or injectors.
3. Significant time savings.

Another important factor is the gradual decoking of the motor.. Thus, carbon deposits are removed on oil scraper rings, in their seats, on valves, candles and even on a catalyst. The only drawback of this method is that after such decarbonization it is necessary to flush the fuel system with special means.

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The life of a car is incomparable to that of a human. Simple arithmetic: at idle, a diesel engine makes at least 600 revolutions per minute - that is, 10 per second. In this case, the piston "strokes" 20 times. We press on the gas - the number of revolutions exceeds a thousand. Add here the constant action of high temperatures and cold when starting in winter ... A man could not even dream of such an extreme! Therefore, forgetting about such a procedure as decoking the engine with the help of LAVR ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR preparations is a real crime.

Background

When cars first appeared in the USSR, everyone knew that periodically it was necessary to clean the piston rings from contamination. Fuel in those days burned much worse than now. Lacquers and sludge quickly formed on the surface of the parts.

The oil was also so-so and even worse. What happened to him in the engine? It oxidized on the cylinder walls, turning into a film, and fell into the piston grooves. Also, during the combustion of the fuel, soot was formed, which mixed with the oil film. Over time, all this turned into a single monolith - persistent hard deposits that blocked the work of the piston rings.

Soviet motorists struggled with pollution by all means available at that time: they filled the engine with kerosene for the night, and later they began to add solvents. Desperate motorists were not stopped by the risk of being left without a car at all and the almost zero efficiency of such trains. However, even now the owners of "iron horses" do not hesitate to experiment to their own detriment. And some even forgot about the decoking of the engine - they relaxed, relying on additives in modern oils and conditionally high fuel standards.

Since that time, modern autochemistry in the face of our products ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR has stepped far forward. However, it is still not omnipotent, as some people think. Therefore, we decided to debunk the most popular myths about engine decoking.

Myth 1. Modern engines do not need decoking

Nothing like this! Of course, in 10-15 years the situation with fuel and oil has changed for the better. In Soviet times, it was impossible to start at all without a blowtorch in winter (we will keep silent about how dangerous it was to heat up the lubrication system pan in this way: the slightest smudge, and burnt legs and horns were left from the Zhiguli), and now an easy cold start is something by itself taken for granted.

Despite this, the problem of coking has not gone anywhere and even worsened. Thanks to progress: technologies are more perfect, the gaps between piston rings and grooves are smaller, the system is more vulnerable. Even a thin layer of deposits leads to the fact that the engine is disturbed. Over time, deposits become larger, problems become more serious - a drop in compression, pre-ignition, detonation, accelerated wear, and then a serious breakdown. If you don’t want to fork out for a major overhaul, don’t forget about decoking.

Myth 2. Engine decoking is a universal cure for all misfortunes.

No doubt, LAVR preparations are almost legendary. But they are far from the “living water” from folk tales. Decarbonization of the engine is primarily a repair and preventive operation. Like an examination by a hygienist, if we draw parallels with medicine. If there are cylinder cleanliness issues, the ML202 and 203 will fix them. But if the engine is badly worn, no procedure other than a bulkhead and replacement of parts will help the system.

Myth 3. The procedure for decoking is the same for all engines.

The principle is the same for all motors. However, engines are different - in-line, boxer, V-shaped ... Each has its own nuances. If in doubt, check with our experts by phone or email. But the general rule is one: if the engine has cylinders at an angle, it is better to fill them with more fluid. Details on the decoking of boxer and V-shaped engines,

Myth 4. I constantly use gasoline additives and flush the injectors with a liquid with a decoking effect. Doing more and decoking is useless

The most effective way to remove deposits is by the "immersion method" - that is, by pouring the decoking compound directly into the cylinders. So one does not interfere with the other. But at the same time, nuances arise: crawling to technological holes is not always easy - special tools and comfortable conditions are needed. On the street, in the rain or snowfall, this procedure is better not to carry out. That is why we advise you to combine engine decoking with a scheduled oil or spark plug change.

Myth 5. The more decoking fluid, the better the cylinders are cleaned.

There should be enough liquid so that the pistons are well moistened with it. The volume of preparations is calculated in such a way that there is enough liquid for decoking to process all cylinders. 50-60 ml in excess of the required amount will not harm the engine, but it is also not worth pouring the drug in buckets.

Myth 6. Decoking fluid should clean white

Our preparations are for those who have an average and higher degree of cylinder coking. It often happens that in older engines, deposits "hold" parts, like cement mortar holds bricks together. Therefore, it is not recommended to clean white such systems. In addition, too caustic solutions can damage engine parts. However, our formulations are much stronger than many analogues and traditional solvents.

Myth 7. After decoking, the car always smokes a lot

The car will smoke anyway, but not always much. The piston has technological recesses in which liquid is retained. In addition, deposits are impregnated with vapors of the drug and swell, preventing the liquid from seeping further. These excesses of the drug begin to burn off when the engine is started after the procedure, turning into white smoke from the exhaust pipe.

To reduce smoke, we recommend removing the liquid remaining in the cylinders. This can be done using a tube with a syringe that comes with the drug. If necessary, it can be extended with any plastic tube. Also, if the fluid is not pumped out, starting may be difficult, and thick white smoke will last longer. You should not worry about the catalyst - the drug burns out gradually and does not harm it.

Myth 8. After decarbonizing, you can drive to a car service and change the oil there

Basically, you can. But the unequivocal answer to this question depends on how much oil you have in the system, what quality it is, how long it takes to get to the car service, at what speed, what will be the load on the car, etc., etc. Therefore, we recommend changing the oil without leaving the cash register - that is, immediately after decarbonizing, and not embarking on risky voyages.

Myth 9. After decoking, it will only get worse because the compression in the cylinders will drop.

As a rule, old engines are literally overgrown with deposits. Because of this, pistons and rings wear out a lot. If you carry out decarbonization on such a car, it turns out that over the years of operation, the parts have been pretty worn out. Therefore, compression drops, and starting becomes difficult. If the treatment of the engine with ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR preparations did not give good results, then it is time for the engine to be overhauled.

Myth 10. After the procedure, the engine will not start

During the decoking of the engine, the cylinders are wetted with liquid. If they are not properly dried, the motor may not start the first time, but only after several attempts. Therefore, after the procedure, it is recommended to wipe the candles dry and remove excess drug from the cylinders.

And sometimes the matter is not at all in the decarbonization procedure. It happens that the procedure was carried out with the help of our drug in accordance with all the rules. But the car still won't start. It turns out that the high-voltage coils are reversed on the car. If you return them to their places, the engine will start with a half turn!

That is why we insist that you follow the instructions strictly. And the phrase that a motorist who decides on a decarbonization procedure must have elementary skills in engine maintenance also flaunts on the box for a reason. So be careful, follow the recommendations of experts, and then your engine will delight you with quiet and impeccable operation!

The EP6 engines, which incorporate the best developments of the “egghead” engineers of BMW and PSA, are certainly good. However, as it is not surprising, on many even quite “young” Peugeot and Citroen EP6 engines operate unstable and noisy, do not develop the required power, “choke” during acceleration, consume too much fuel and oil. After a relatively short run, the timing phases “run away”, the “antipollution system faulty” error lights up on the dashboard ... On a practically new car, the coolant temperature sensor can “turn off”, which leads to improper engine operation and thermostat replacement. Frequent oil leaks add their own drop of tar. The main potentially dangerous places are the valve cover gasket (especially if oil flows into the candle wells and corrodes the tips of the ignition coils) and oil filter housings, the vacuum pump gasket, the oil pump electric valve.

With a rare oil change, and especially when operating the EP6 engine with a low oil level, the valve lift mechanism fails. There may be options here. Either the motor itself is “covered”, which moves the valve lift shaft, or the worm pair of the motor with the shaft is mechanically worn out. Look at the photos, this is how the mechanical wear of the worm drive and the gear of the valve lift shaft looks like.

Deterioration of the worm drive of the valve lift motor of the EP6 Peugeot 308 engine, pay attention to the thickness of the teeth in the middle

Peugeot 308 engine valve lift shaft gear wear EP6, in the middle of the gear “propylene” track

A small resource has a single-row timing chain. It just stretches. Add to this the oil changes recommended by the French at one time after 20,000 kilometers, and just in time for the end of the warranty period, you will get a motor fouled with black substance and phases shifted. The oil channels in the cylinder head and the valves of the phase regulators, which supply oil to the phase regulators, are clogged with slag from rarely changed oil. Phase regulators themselves can also suffer from oil slag. On the engines of the first releases, metal sealing rings of the camshafts “saw through” the tracks on the beds of the camshafts, because of which, again, the required oil pressure is not supplied to the phase regulators. The engine starts to “get rich” and error P2178 appears. More about this.

Error P2178, indicating an excessively rich mixture, can appear for many reasons. But basically, of course, this is pollution of the oil channels of the cylinder head.

EP6 valves are covered with thick soot, especially on. This is due, first of all, to the rapid wear of the valve stem seals, especially on the exhaust valves. Exhaust valves get hotter and the caps on them die faster. Oil flies into the cylinders, its combustion products settle in greasy black growths on the valves, prematurely disable the catalyst. Nagar hinders the normal operation of the valves and impairs gas distribution, but also additionally “pulls off” the already bad valve stem seals, from which the latter completely stop performing their function. To eliminate carbon deposits on the valves, you have to act drastically, cleaning the valves manually. Until the process has gone that far, you can preventively. It's not particularly expensive and should be done if your EP6 has gone over 50,000 and is starting to eat up oil. Oil consumption, as a rule, is also associated with a torn oil separator membrane, which is located in the valve cover. In this case, you should not fool around with Chinese repair kits, they are simply of terrible quality, but it’s better to “wave” the entire cover. They are always original. Another problem with EP6DT turbo engines is the pipe clogged with the same deposits of old oil, through which oil is supplied to the turbine. When the oil stops flowing to the turbine, it “shuts down”.

As for the problems with the timing phases, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the source of the problem. And then - either with a tensioner and dampers, or replacing the “stars” of the camshaft phase regulators or valves supplying oil to them, or cleaning the oil channels in the cylinder head, or all of the above at once. “Drinking blood” can also be a valve lift mechanism or worn camshaft beds. It should be noted that in a multi-brand service you are unlikely to properly repair or adjust EP6 and EP6DT motors. Almost any intervention in the engine requires subsequent adaptation using a computer and specialized software. Lexia is not in every car service. There are even fewer people who know how to use it normally.

Of course, the first thing to do is to check the oil level! The EP6 engine, due to its complex timing system, is very sensitive to oil level and “sausages” if “just a liter” is missing. Most often, the timing phases are shifted simply due to a stretched chain. Nothing surprising. You won’t look at the chain itself without tears, the impression is that it is intended for the Druzhok bicycle. Could not put at least a two-row ... For EP6 engines, the worst thing is the rare change of engine oil, which is widely practiced at dealerships. My heart bleeds when some nice girl comes to us in a Peugeot 308, who underwent maintenance at dealers, whose service book is neatly filled out, but at the same time, not just used oil is drained from her engine, but 2-3 liters of thick blackening a substance more reminiscent of fuel oil ... It is possible that the oil was not changed at all. Or changed over time.

In our humble opinion, 10,000 kilometers is the limit of engine oil life, no matter how good it is. In the conditions of driving in Moscow traffic jams, it is advisable to change the oil in general in thousands after 8 runs. Spark plugs should be changed at least once a year. There are a lot of living examples when people “scored” for a guarantee and often changed the oil on their own. One of our grandfather-customers on the 308th fawn, who is engaged in changing the oil in his own garage according to an old habit, has already traveled 170 thousand in this way, and, surprisingly, his engine is still running like clockwork!

The conclusion from all of the above is simple. If you bought a new car with an EP6 engine and want it to last for a long time, “hammer” the warranty (nothing will happen during the warranty period anyway) and change the oil every 8-10 thousand kilometers . It is advisable to fill in the oil in the EP6 engine only with TOTAL 5w30 ENEOS.