Bleeding the brake system: step by step instructions. Bleeding the brake system: step-by-step instructions For effective bleeding, while working with the brake system of the rear left wheel, the procedure must be corrected

Bleeding the brake system: step by step instructions. Bleeding the brake system: step-by-step instructions For effective bleeding, while working with the brake system of the rear left wheel, the procedure must be corrected

The Toyota Corolla car, despite the well-deserved trust and authority among car owners, requires an attentive and careful attitude. One of the main systems with which difficulties may arise during operation is the brakes.

The Toyota Corolla car, despite the well-deserved trust and authority among car owners, requires an attentive and careful attitude. One of the main systems with which difficulties may arise during operation is the brakes. They need to be pumped, but not all owners of this brand of car can do it technically competently.

Both new members of the auto community and experienced drivers will always need simple and timely reminders that:

  • all manipulations with brake fluid must be done very carefully;
  • avoid contact with human skin, especially protect the eyes;
  • do not allow contact with the paintwork of the car;
  • protect brake fluid from contact with hot elements and fire - it is flammable;
  • it is strictly forbidden to reuse the liquid;
  • only incompressible fluid will ensure smooth operation of the brakes, so it should not be allowed to become contaminated or clogged.

Troubleshooting by one person will be impossible, because brake bleeding toyota corolla requires a "play of 4 hands", with their 4-fold repetition (of course, according to the number of wheels).

The algorithm of all the necessary actions:

  1. Bleeding starts with the longest brake system.
  2. Set the car on a flat plateau. Stop the engine and place the gear lever in the reverse or 1st gear position. Fix the wheels, lower the handbrake.
  3. Pre-fill with a working mixture similar to SAEJ 1703, VSS116DOT3.
  4. Remove the master cylinder, be sure to pump out air from there (if it is empty or the liquid level has reached a minimum).
  5. Remove brake lines from cylinder.
  6. Press on the brake, and smoothly, without jerking, hold it.
  7. Clamp the cylinder outlets with your fingers, lowering the brake.
  8. Learn this repair procedure and repeat it 3-4 times.
  9. Connect the tube to the brake caliper.
  10. Press-squeeze the brake several times, loosen the bleeder screw and release the air. Lower the pedal.
  11. Repeat the process until the liquid stops flowing out (simultaneously with the appearance of air bubbles in it).

Manufacturing companies gave people (instead of improving the art of driving) the opportunity to enjoy a comfortable and enjoyable pastime. This is due to sensors, valves and an electronic control unit for changing the pressure in the brake system. This "smart" ABS system has features for bleeding the brakes:

  1. You need to look at the previous paragraph, point number 3.
  2. Place the end of the tube on the valve of the rear stupor, lower its other part into a clean container with liquid.
  3. Turn the ignition key to the second position, press and hold the brake. The pump will turn on by itself, raising the pressure in the rear brake circuit.
  4. Loosen the valve so that the liquid begins to come out. It is important not to release the brakes at the same time!
  5. When the air bubbles disappear, close the valve, release the brake, turn off the ignition.
  6. Top up the brake fluid level to the very top.
  • first, the front wheels are pumped (you need to follow the "brake" regulations);
  • the pump with hydraulics is turned on at one time for no more than 2 minutes;
  • after 2 minutes of operation, be sure to turn off the ignition and cool the pump for at least 10 minutes.

Good day, dear motorists! Among us, most likely, there is no driver who at least once did not experience a feeling of helplessness at the moment of braking. When the car continues its movement, and not at all in the direction in which the driver wants. Skid.

Fortunately, engineering thought does not stand still. The modern driver is armed with a system such as ABS. Let's take a closer look at the system and see if it is possible to bleed the brakes with ABS with your own hands.

What is car ABS

ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) is an anti-lock braking system that prevents the wheels from locking during emergency braking.

The main task of the ABS is to regulate the speed of rotation of all wheels. This is done by changing the pressure in the vehicle's brake system. The process occurs with the help of signals (impulses) from each wheel sensor, which enter the ABS control unit.

The principle of operation of the anti-lock braking system
The contact patch of the wheels of the car is in relative immobility to the roadway. According to physics, the wheels are affected by the so-called. static friction force.

Taking into account the fact that the static friction force is greater than the sliding friction force, with the help of ABS, the rotation of the wheels is effectively slowed down at a speed that corresponds to the speed of the car at the time of braking.

At the moment of the beginning of braking, the anti-lock braking system begins to constantly and accurately determine the speed of rotation of each wheel, and synchronizes it.

Anti-lock system device
Here are the main components of ABS:

  • sensors installed on the wheel hubs of the car: speed, acceleration or deceleration;
  • control valves installed in the line of the main brake system. They are also components of the pressure modulator;
  • ABS electronic control unit. Its task is to receive a signal from sensors and control the operation of valves.

Bleeding brakes with ABS, taking into account the features of the system

Bleeding the ABS brake system will require you to have certain technical skills. In addition, it will not be superfluous to study the manual for the installation and maintenance of the brake system of your car.

Features of pumping brakes with ABS

  • in cars that have in one node: a hydraulic valve block, a hydraulic accumulator and a pump, changing the brake fluid and bleeding the brake system with an anti-lock braking system is done in the same way, you need to turn off the system by removing the fuse. Bleeding of the circuits is carried out with the brake pedal depressed, the RTC bleeder must be unscrewed. The ignition is turned on and the pump expels air from the circuit. The bleeder screw is tightened and the brake pedal is released. An extinguished malfunction lamp is evidence of the correctness of your actions.
  • Bleeding of the brake system with ABS, in which the hydraulic module with valves and the hydraulic accumulator are separated into separate units, is carried out using a diagnostic scanner to read information from the ABS computer. You probably don't have it. Therefore, bleeding brakes with ABS of this type, most likely, should be done by you at the service station.
  • Bleeding the brake system with ABS and with electronic activation systems (ESP or SBC) is carried out only under service conditions.

How to bleed ABS brakes

It is important! It should be remembered that the pressure in the brake system reaches 180 atm. Therefore, in order to prevent the release of brake fluid, before disconnecting the brake lines for any system with ABS, it is necessary to discharge the pressure accumulator. To do this, with the ignition off, press the brake pedal 20 times.

Technology of pumping the brake system with ABS

Bleeding brakes with ABS, like bleeding a conventional brake system, is performed with an assistant. Turn off the ignition (position "0"). Disconnect the connectors on the brake fluid reservoir.

Front wheel brakes:

  • put the hose on the bleeder fitting;
  • open the fitting for a turn;
  • the brake pedal is pressed to the stop and held in the depressed position;
  • we observe the exit of the "airy" mixture;
  • turn the screw on and release the pedal.

Rear right wheel brake:

  • put the hose on the bleeder fitting, unscrew it one turn;
  • press the brake pedal to the stop, turn the ignition key to position "2". In this case, the brake pedal is held in the depressed position;
  • a running pump will force air out of the system. That is, as soon as the brake fluid begins to come out without air bubbles, close the fitting and release the brake.

Rear left wheel brake

  • the hose is put on the fitting and unscrew it 1 turn;
  • DO NOT press the brake pedal;
  • a working pump pushes out the “airy” mixture;
  • press the brake pedal halfway and tighten the fitting;
  • release the pedal and wait for the pump to stop completely.

In the reverse order: turn the ignition key to "0", connect the connectors to the brake fluid reservoir, carry out a leak test of the brake system (see ABS fault indicator).

Good luck with bleeding your ABS brakes.

Bleeding the hydraulic system of the brakes

Brake fluid is poisonous. Rinse the affected parts with copious amounts of cold running water and seek immediate medical attention if the liquid gets into the mouth or eyes. Some types of brake fluid are flammable and may ignite on contact with hot components. Take appropriate fire safety measures. Brake fluid is aggressive to paint and plastics - if it comes into contact with such surfaces, immediately wash off the fluid with plenty of water. In addition, the fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) - old fluid may be contaminated with water and unusable. When adding or replacing fluid to the system, use the recommended type of fluid from a freshly opened sealed container.

MODELS NOT EQUIPPED WITH ABS

general description

The correct functioning of the hydraulic brake system is only possible if its components are free from air. Bleed the system to remove air.
During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, fresh brake fluid of the type specified in the Specifications. Never reuse liquid.
If there is any doubt about the type of fluid filled into the system, flush the system with clean fluid and replace all seals.
If the brake fluid level in the master cylinder has dropped, locate and repair the cause of the leak before proceeding.
Park the vehicle on level ground (not on a slope), turn off the ignition and select 1st gear or reverse. Block the wheels and release the handbrake.
Make sure all tubing and hoses are securely attached, couplers are tight, and bleeders are closed. Remove dust caps and clean dirt from bleeder fittings.
Unscrew the cap of the reservoir of the brake hydraulic system and bring the fluid level to the “MAX” line. Screw on the cap and be sure to keep the liquid level above the “MIN” line throughout the procedure, otherwise air will again enter the system.
On sale there is a number of devices for pumping the brake system by one person. It is recommended to use one of these kits, as they greatly simplify the work and also reduce the risk of air and fluid escaping from the system being pulled back into the system. If such a device is not available, use the basic bleeding method (for two people) detailed below.
If a tool is used, prepare the vehicle as described above and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions. The procedure can vary considerably depending on the type of device used, its main course is also described below.
Whichever method is used, follow the correct bleeding sequence.

Pumping sequence

If components of only one of the circuits were disconnected or removed (for example, a caliper or a working brake cylinder), only this circuit needs to be pumped.
If the entire system is to be bled, proceed in the following sequence:
a) Rear right brake.
b) Front left brake.
c) Rear left brake mechanism.
d) Front right brake.

Pumping - the main method (for two people)

PROCEDURE

1. Prepare a clean glass reservoir, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tube that fits tightly on the bleeder fitting. You will need the help of a second person.
2. If not already done, remove the dust cap from the bleeder fitting and fit a tube prepared for bleeding onto the bleeder. Immerse the other end of the tube in the brake fluid previously poured into the reservoir.
3. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full and keep the fluid level above the “MIN” line throughout the procedure.
4. Ask an assistant to press the brake pedal to the stop several times, and then keep it pressed.

6. Repeat this procedure (paragraphs 4 and 5) until the escaping brake fluid is free of air bubbles. If all fluid has drained from the master cylinder when bleeding the first brake, fill the master cylinder and bleed the brake again, taking approximately five seconds between cycles.
7. Tighten the bleeder screw, remove the plastic tube and install the dust cap.
8. Repeat procedure on other brake mechanisms in the sequence specified above.

Bleeding with non-return valve tool

Pumping under pressure

PROCEDURE

1. These devices are powered by compressed air contained in the spare tire chamber. However, note that the air pressure must be reduced (see the instructions supplied with the tool).
2. Attach the container filled with brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir and spare wheel. Bleed by opening the fittings one by one (in the order shown) and draining the liquid until it is free of air bubbles.
3. This method has advantages because a large amount of liquid in the installed reservoir prevents air from entering the main cylinder during pumping.
4. Bleeding under pressure is especially effective when pumping "problem" systems (an air lock is stuck in a place where it is difficult to expel it) or when completely bleeding the system during the next fluid change.

All Methods

PROCEDURE

1. Upon completion of pumping, wash off spilled liquid, tighten the pumping fittings to the torque given in the Specifications and install their dust caps.
2. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and top up if necessary (refer to Section ).
3. Pour out the brake fluid released during pumping, it is not suitable for reuse.
4. Check up elasticity of a brake pedal. If dips are felt during its movement, there is still air in the system and further pumping is required. If re-priming is not satisfactory, the master cylinder seals may be worn.

MODELS EQUIPPED WITH ABS



Before bleeding the brake hydraulic system on models with ABS, it is necessary to perform preparatory procedures and take special precautions. These procedures vary depending on which part of the system has been disconnected.
The information regarding the conventional brake system (other than bleeding under pressure) applies to models equipped with ABS. However, on these models, a different bleeding sequence is used:
a) Left front brake
b) Right rear brake
c) Right front brake
d) Left rear brake

In addition to this, the following bleeding procedures are used.

Bleeding after disconnecting the wheel cylinder/caliper coupler

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PROCEDURE

1. Connect a container to the bleeder port and top up the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Remember to keep it above the “MIN” mark throughout the procedure.
2. Open the bleed valve, then ask an assistant to depress the brake pedal all the way and hold it in this position. Tighten the fitting and have an assistant release the pedal slowly and wait approximately 3 seconds. Repeat this procedure at least ten times until the liquid flowing from the bleeder is free of air bubbles.
3. Again, ask the assistant to press the brake pedal several times and keep it pressed. Open the bleed valve and let the pedal drop to the floor. Tighten the fitting and ask an assistant to slowly release the pedal and wait at least 3 seconds. Repeat this procedure and make sure that the fluid that flows out is free of bubbles.
4. Check the elasticity of the brake pedal, then remove the container and bring the fluid level to normal (refer to Section Schedule of ongoing maintenance). Make sure the bleeder screw is tightened to the specified torque, then install the dust cap.

Bleeding the separation field of pressure regulating couplings

PROCEDURE

1. Bleed both rear brakes as described above.
Bleeding After Disconnecting the Master Cylinder Coupling
2. If the master cylinder has been disconnected, it must be bled before connecting to the hydraulic line to prevent air from entering the hydraulic unit. This will require two plugs that are screwed into the holes of the master cylinder.
3. Screw the plugs into the master cylinder ports and tighten them.
4. Fill the cylinder reservoir, then open the rear plug / fitting (primary circuit) and have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it in this position. Tighten the plug, then have an assistant release the brake pedal slowly and wait approximately 3 seconds. Repeat this procedure 5-6 times.
5. Repeat the procedure for the front of the master cylinder (second circuit).
6. To prevent fluid from escaping from the cylinder and, therefore, the penetration of air into it, before removing the plugs, ask an assistant to lightly depress the brake pedal (approximately 30 mm) and hold it in this position.
7. Remove the plugs from the brake pipes and make sure both pipes are filled with fluid; if not, add liquid to them. Quickly remove one of the master cylinder plugs (the brake pedal is held as described in the previous paragraph), connect the brake pipe and tighten the connecting nut to the torque given in the Specifications. Repeat the procedure on the second channel of the master cylinder, then wash off the spilled liquid.
8. Refer to the paragraphs above and completely bleed the brake hydraulic system in the above sequence.

Bleeding After Disconnecting the Hydraulic Unit Coupling

Toyota Ram. Manual - part 30

Brake system 119

d) Remove the trim panel

owls of the parking brake.
e) Loosen the locknut and turn

adjusting nut connector

cable bracket up to nominal

parking pedal travel

Moving the parking pedal
brakes on force

pressing 294 N 4 -6 clicks

e) Tighten the locknut.

Tightening torque 13 N.m

g) Press and release the pedal

parking brake several times.

Make sure the parking pedal travel is

foot brake has not changed.
h) Check that the parking brake cables are

the brakes are not overdriven.

i) Make sure the indicator is up

night brake works normally

but (the indicator lights up before the first

clicks).
j) Install trim panel

parking brake cables.

Thickness check

brake pads

Front brakes

1. Remove the wheel and temporarily fix

those brake disc wheel nuts.
2. Through the control hole into the soup

port, check the thickness of the pads"

brake pads.

Minimum lining thickness

brake pads 1.0 mm
Nominal lining thickness

brake pads 9.5 mm

Replace pads if necessary.

3. Install the wheel.
Tightening torque 103 Nm

Rear brakes

1. Remove the inspection hole plug

stia.
2. Through the hole in the brake shield
check the thickness of the brake pads
pads.
Minimum lining thickness

brake pads 1.0 mm
Nominal lining thickness

brake pads 4.0 mm

Removing the brake pedal. 1 - fork axle, 2 - cotter pin, 3, 4 - bushing, 5 - washer,

6, 8 - brake pedal stop, 7 - return spring, 9 - brake pedal,

10 - pedal pad.

Brake pedal

1. When removing and installing the pedal

mosa guided assembly ri

See "Removing the brake pedal".

Note: when installed on

surfaces indicated by arrows,

apply grease.
2. After installation, adjust according to

position of the brake pedal (see corresponding

current section).

Main brake

Removal and installation

follow the assembly pattern

"Removing the brake master cylinder

2. After installation:

a) Fill the brake fluid reservoir

bone and pump the brake system

brake distance.

Stem length adjustment

vacuum booster

1. Install a new gasket on

master brake cylinder.

2. Install the adjuster

sewing on the gasket, and then opus

turn the adjusting screw until light

piston touch.

3. Turn the adjuster over

tool and install it on your

vacuum amplifier.

4. Measure the gap between the end of the
vacuum booster and head
adjusting screw.
Nominal clearance 0 mm

5. If the clearance does not match

given, adjust the stem length,

as it shown on the picture.

Brake system

Removing the brake master cylinder. 1 - the main brake cylinder in

assembly, 2 - gasket, 3, 4 - bracket.

Master brake cylinder. 1 - cover, 2 - mesh filter, 3 - tank,

4 - rubber bushing, 5 - gasket, 6 - locking bolt, 7 - piston No. 2,

8 - piston No. 1, 9 - retaining ring.
Note: when assembling on the surfaces indicated by the arrows, on the

use a special grease that does not damage the rubber.

vacuum booster

brakes

Checking the vacuum

brake booster

1. Press the brake pedal without

how many times with engine off

lem and make sure that the power reserve is not

dali does not change.
2. Press the brake pedal and

start the engine. If the pedal

the mosa will smoothly go down, then the vacuum-.

ny amplifier is operational.
3. Check airtight

bridge of the vacuum booster.

a) Start the engine and stop

after one or two minutes of work.

Slowly press the pedal

moz several times.

If the first time you press the pedal

will fall lower than in the second and

third, vacuum booster ger

Serviceable Faulty

b) Press the brake pedal while

running engine and stop

those it at the pressed pedal. If

distance between floor and pressed

pedal for thirty seconds

will not change, vacuum booster

sealed.

4. Check with pressure gauges.

a) Connect pressure gauges and vacuum

ummeter as shown in the picture, and

remove air from the system.

b) Check for tightness.

Start the engine. stop

engine when the vacuum is

approximately 500 mm Hg. Art.

For 15 seconds, the vacuum does not drop.

V) Check tightness without

Start the engine and press

brake pedal with a force of 200 N. OS

rev the engine when less often

nie will be approximately 500 mm Hg. Art.

After stopping the engine for

15 seconds vacuum drop

will be no more than 25 mm Hg. Art.

d) Checking when the unit is not working

Stop the engine. Make sure

that the vacuum is 0 kPa.

Check if the pressure is correct

brake fluid

our values ​​with an effort on ne

brake distance 196 N and 294 N (see

table "Permissible values ​​given

brake fluid when you

running engine").

e) Checking the operation of the amplifier.

Start the engine. Create times

cutting 500 mmHg Art. Check

pressure at different forces on

pressing the brake pedal (see tab.

face "Permissible pressure values

brake fluid when starting

puppy engine").

Table. Valid values

off engine.

Pressing force

on the pedal

brakes, N

Pressure

brake

liquids, MPa

Table. Valid values
brake fluid pressure at
running engine.

Pressing force

on the pedal

brakes, N

Pressure

brake

liquids, MPa

2,51
4,93
6,92
7,40

Brake system 121

Verification of the reverse

Remove check valve and make sure

those that the air passes to the side

engine (and does not reverse

side. Replace if necessary

Removal and installation

vacuum booster

brakes

1. When removing and installing the vacuum

brake booster guide

assembly drawing "Vacuum Removal

brake booster".
2. After installation:

a) Bleed the brake system

b) Check for leaks.

c) Check and adjust the

brake distance.

Stem length adjustment

vacuum booster

(See section "Main brake qi

Front brakes

Removal and installation

1. When removing and installing the manual

follow the assembly drawing "Pe

red brakes.

2. Installation is done in order,

reverse withdrawal.
3. After installation, fill the tank

brake fluid, pump

brake system and check for

leaks.

Brake Fluid Type.... SAE J 1703

or FMVSS 116 DOT3 or DOT4

Replacing the dust

1. Install the caliper bracket in a vise.

Attention: when installing the bracket in

vise, use pads made of soft

some metal on the vise jaws.

2. Using a screwdriver and a plastic

hammer, remove the dust cover

hall as shown in the picture.

3. Install a new dustproof

a) Apply grease

on the inside of the case.

Removing the vacuum brake booster. 1 - control cable clamp

throttle valve, 2 - throttle control cable,

3 - wiring harness, 4 - brake pipe No. 1, 5 - brake pipe No. 2,

6 - brake pipe No. 3, 7 - bracket, 8 - brake master cylinder in

assembly, 9 - gasket, 10 - vacuum brake booster, 11 - clamp,

12 - gasket, 13 - cotter pin, 14 - fork, 15 - return spring, 16 - axis

forks, 17 - vacuum hose, 18 - air hose fitting, 19 - pro

masonry, 20 - clamp, 21 - air hose, 22 - bracket for brake pipes.

Note: when installing on the surfaces indicated by the arrows, on

carry grease.

b) Using a suitable mandrel,

install a new dust cover

Note: if necessary, replace

thread at least one brake

boat, then replace everything, for obes

baking uniformity of braking.

When replacing pads, anti-squeal

gaskets also change.

Examination

1. Measure the thickness of the pads

brain pads.
Minimum lining thickness

brake pads 1.0 mm
Nominal lining thickness

brake pads 9.5 mm

Replace the pads if the thickness is

clutches are less than the minimum or if

pads worn unevenly.

2. Check plate liners.

a) Clean with special liquid

liners and their places of installation.

Make sure the earbuds are

in normal condition.

b) After installing the lamellar

earbuds, make sure they are not

fall out.

3. Using a caliper, measure

the thickness of the brake disc.

Nominal thickness
brake disc 18 mm
Minimum Thickness
brake disc 16 mm

122 Brake system

4. Measure brake disc runout

at a distance of 10 mm from the outer

edges.
Max runout 0.05mm

If the beating of the brake disc pain

less than or equal to the maximum value

nii, then check the axial clearance under

spike and hub runout.

5. Adjust if necessary

disc beat.

a) Loosen the two screws and remove

caliper bracket.

b) Unscrew the nuts and remove the torus

brain disk.
c) Reinstall the disk

returning it 1/4 of a turn from

initial position on stu

pizza, measure the runout of the disc during

all installation options. Select

the smallest value obtained

nyh. Compare it with max.

admissible.

d) If the value obtained is less

less than the maximum, install the disk

in this position, install the bracket

caliper and tighten bolts

e) If the resulting pain value

then, replace the disc and repeat step

you are "v" and "g".

finger, 5 - anti-creak pad No. 1, 6, 13 - brake shoe,

7, 8, 11, 12 - retaining plate insert, 9 - wear indicator

pads, 10 - caliper bracket, 14 - anti-creak gasket No. 3, 15 - anti

violin gasket No. 2, 16 - bleeder cap, 17 - pro

pitching, 18, 19, 23, 24 - boot, 20 - brake caliper,

21, 22 - guide pin bushing, 25 - cuff, 26 - piston, 27 - che

hall, 28 - retaining ring.

Note: when assembling, on the parts indicated by the arrows, apply:

- special grease that does not damage rubber,

- special grease for brake mechanisms.

Rear brakes

1. Remove the inspection hole plug

and check the thickness through it
brake pads.
Minimum thickness 1.0 mm

If the lining thickness is less than

the least admissible, replace the torus

brain pads.

2. Remove the rear wheel.

3. Remove the brake drum.

Note for 2WD models: see

relevant section of the chapter

"Suspension".

Note: if the brake bar

ban is not removed easily, follow

the following procedures:

a) Remove the service plug from

b) Insert a screwdriver into the service

opening of the brake shield and

move the auto adjust lever

torus from the regulator.

c) Using another screwdriver, turn

turn on the automatic regulator

to reduce its length.

Removing the front brake pad.

a) Using a special tool, remove

connect the return spring.
b) Using the special tool, remove

press the holder spring, seat

springs (2WD) and holder.

c) Disconnect the fixing rod

zhine from the front brake shoe

ki and remove the front brake

block.
d) Remove the fixing spring from

rear brake pad.

Removing the rear brake pad.

a) Using the special tool, remove

press the holder spring, seat

springs (2WD) and holder.

b) Using pliers, remove

automatic re lever spring

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