The Toyota Corolla car, despite the well-deserved trust and authority among car owners, requires an attentive and careful attitude. One of the main systems with which difficulties may arise during operation is the brakes.
The Toyota Corolla car, despite the well-deserved trust and authority among car owners, requires an attentive and careful attitude. One of the main systems with which difficulties may arise during operation is the brakes. They need to be pumped, but not all owners of this brand of car can do it technically competently.
Both new members of the auto community and experienced drivers will always need simple and timely reminders that:
- all manipulations with brake fluid must be done very carefully;
- avoid contact with human skin, especially protect the eyes;
- do not allow contact with the paintwork of the car;
- protect brake fluid from contact with hot elements and fire - it is flammable;
- it is strictly forbidden to reuse the liquid;
- only incompressible fluid will ensure smooth operation of the brakes, so it should not be allowed to become contaminated or clogged.
Troubleshooting by one person will be impossible, because brake bleeding toyota corolla requires a "play of 4 hands", with their 4-fold repetition (of course, according to the number of wheels).
The algorithm of all the necessary actions:
- Bleeding starts with the longest brake system.
- Set the car on a flat plateau. Stop the engine and place the gear lever in the reverse or 1st gear position. Fix the wheels, lower the handbrake.
- Pre-fill with a working mixture similar to SAEJ 1703, VSS116DOT3.
- Remove the master cylinder, be sure to pump out air from there (if it is empty or the liquid level has reached a minimum).
- Remove brake lines from cylinder.
- Press on the brake, and smoothly, without jerking, hold it.
- Clamp the cylinder outlets with your fingers, lowering the brake.
- Learn this repair procedure and repeat it 3-4 times.
- Connect the tube to the brake caliper.
- Press-squeeze the brake several times, loosen the bleeder screw and release the air. Lower the pedal.
- Repeat the process until the liquid stops flowing out (simultaneously with the appearance of air bubbles in it).
Manufacturing companies gave people (instead of improving the art of driving) the opportunity to enjoy a comfortable and enjoyable pastime. This is due to sensors, valves and an electronic control unit for changing the pressure in the brake system. This "smart" ABS system has features for bleeding the brakes:
- You need to look at the previous paragraph, point number 3.
- Place the end of the tube on the valve of the rear stupor, lower its other part into a clean container with liquid.
- Turn the ignition key to the second position, press and hold the brake. The pump will turn on by itself, raising the pressure in the rear brake circuit.
- Loosen the valve so that the liquid begins to come out. It is important not to release the brakes at the same time!
- When the air bubbles disappear, close the valve, release the brake, turn off the ignition.
- Top up the brake fluid level to the very top.
- first, the front wheels are pumped (you need to follow the "brake" regulations);
- the pump with hydraulics is turned on at one time for no more than 2 minutes;
- after 2 minutes of operation, be sure to turn off the ignition and cool the pump for at least 10 minutes.
Good day, dear motorists! Among us, most likely, there is no driver who at least once did not experience a feeling of helplessness at the moment of braking. When the car continues its movement, and not at all in the direction in which the driver wants. Skid.
Fortunately, engineering thought does not stand still. The modern driver is armed with a system such as ABS. Let's take a closer look at the system and see if it is possible to bleed the brakes with ABS with your own hands.
What is car ABS
ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) is an anti-lock braking system that prevents the wheels from locking during emergency braking.
The main task of the ABS is to regulate the speed of rotation of all wheels. This is done by changing the pressure in the vehicle's brake system. The process occurs with the help of signals (impulses) from each wheel sensor, which enter the ABS control unit.
The principle of operation of the anti-lock braking system
The contact patch of the wheels of the car is in relative immobility to the roadway. According to physics, the wheels are affected by the so-called. static friction force.
Taking into account the fact that the static friction force is greater than the sliding friction force, with the help of ABS, the rotation of the wheels is effectively slowed down at a speed that corresponds to the speed of the car at the time of braking.
At the moment of the beginning of braking, the anti-lock braking system begins to constantly and accurately determine the speed of rotation of each wheel, and synchronizes it.
Anti-lock system device
Here are the main components of ABS:
- sensors installed on the wheel hubs of the car: speed, acceleration or deceleration;
- control valves installed in the line of the main brake system. They are also components of the pressure modulator;
- ABS electronic control unit. Its task is to receive a signal from sensors and control the operation of valves.
Bleeding brakes with ABS, taking into account the features of the system
Bleeding the ABS brake system will require you to have certain technical skills. In addition, it will not be superfluous to study the manual for the installation and maintenance of the brake system of your car.
Features of pumping brakes with ABS
- in cars that have in one node: a hydraulic valve block, a hydraulic accumulator and a pump, changing the brake fluid and bleeding the brake system with an anti-lock braking system is done in the same way, you need to turn off the system by removing the fuse. Bleeding of the circuits is carried out with the brake pedal depressed, the RTC bleeder must be unscrewed. The ignition is turned on and the pump expels air from the circuit. The bleeder screw is tightened and the brake pedal is released. An extinguished malfunction lamp is evidence of the correctness of your actions.
- Bleeding of the brake system with ABS, in which the hydraulic module with valves and the hydraulic accumulator are separated into separate units, is carried out using a diagnostic scanner to read information from the ABS computer. You probably don't have it. Therefore, bleeding brakes with ABS of this type, most likely, should be done by you at the service station.
- Bleeding the brake system with ABS and with electronic activation systems (ESP or SBC) is carried out only under service conditions.
How to bleed ABS brakes
It is important! It should be remembered that the pressure in the brake system reaches 180 atm. Therefore, in order to prevent the release of brake fluid, before disconnecting the brake lines for any system with ABS, it is necessary to discharge the pressure accumulator. To do this, with the ignition off, press the brake pedal 20 times.
Technology of pumping the brake system with ABS
Bleeding brakes with ABS, like bleeding a conventional brake system, is performed with an assistant. Turn off the ignition (position "0"). Disconnect the connectors on the brake fluid reservoir.
Front wheel brakes:
- put the hose on the bleeder fitting;
- open the fitting for a turn;
- the brake pedal is pressed to the stop and held in the depressed position;
- we observe the exit of the "airy" mixture;
- turn the screw on and release the pedal.
Rear right wheel brake:
- put the hose on the bleeder fitting, unscrew it one turn;
- press the brake pedal to the stop, turn the ignition key to position "2". In this case, the brake pedal is held in the depressed position;
- a running pump will force air out of the system. That is, as soon as the brake fluid begins to come out without air bubbles, close the fitting and release the brake.
Rear left wheel brake
- the hose is put on the fitting and unscrew it 1 turn;
- DO NOT press the brake pedal;
- a working pump pushes out the “airy” mixture;
- press the brake pedal halfway and tighten the fitting;
- release the pedal and wait for the pump to stop completely.
In the reverse order: turn the ignition key to "0", connect the connectors to the brake fluid reservoir, carry out a leak test of the brake system (see ABS fault indicator).
Good luck with bleeding your ABS brakes.
Bleeding the hydraulic system of the brakes
Brake fluid is poisonous. Rinse the affected parts with copious amounts of cold running water and seek immediate medical attention if the liquid gets into the mouth or eyes. Some types of brake fluid are flammable and may ignite on contact with hot components. Take appropriate fire safety measures. Brake fluid is aggressive to paint and plastics - if it comes into contact with such surfaces, immediately wash off the fluid with plenty of water. In addition, the fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) - old fluid may be contaminated with water and unusable. When adding or replacing fluid to the system, use the recommended type of fluid from a freshly opened sealed container. |
MODELS NOT EQUIPPED WITH ABS
general description
The correct functioning of the hydraulic brake system is only possible if its components are free from air. Bleed the system to remove air.
During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, fresh brake fluid of the type specified in the Specifications. Never reuse liquid.
If there is any doubt about the type of fluid filled into the system, flush the system with clean fluid and replace all seals.
If the brake fluid level in the master cylinder has dropped, locate and repair the cause of the leak before proceeding.
Park the vehicle on level ground (not on a slope), turn off the ignition and select 1st gear or reverse. Block the wheels and release the handbrake.
Make sure all tubing and hoses are securely attached, couplers are tight, and bleeders are closed. Remove dust caps and clean dirt from bleeder fittings.
Unscrew the cap of the reservoir of the brake hydraulic system and bring the fluid level to the “MAX” line. Screw on the cap and be sure to keep the liquid level above the “MIN” line throughout the procedure, otherwise air will again enter the system.
On sale there is a number of devices for pumping the brake system by one person. It is recommended to use one of these kits, as they greatly simplify the work and also reduce the risk of air and fluid escaping from the system being pulled back into the system. If such a device is not available, use the basic bleeding method (for two people) detailed below.
If a tool is used, prepare the vehicle as described above and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions. The procedure can vary considerably depending on the type of device used, its main course is also described below.
Whichever method is used, follow the correct bleeding sequence.
Pumping sequence
If components of only one of the circuits were disconnected or removed (for example, a caliper or a working brake cylinder), only this circuit needs to be pumped.
If the entire system is to be bled, proceed in the following sequence:
a) Rear right brake.
b) Front left brake.
c) Rear left brake mechanism.
d) Front right brake.
Pumping - the main method (for two people)
PROCEDURE |
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Bleeding with non-return valve tool
Pumping under pressure
PROCEDURE |
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All Methods
PROCEDURE |
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MODELS EQUIPPED WITH ABS
Before bleeding the brake hydraulic system on models with ABS, it is necessary to perform preparatory procedures and take special precautions. These procedures vary depending on which part of the system has been disconnected.
The information regarding the conventional brake system (other than bleeding under pressure) applies to models equipped with ABS. However, on these models, a different bleeding sequence is used:
a) Left front brake
b) Right rear brake
c) Right front brake
d) Left rear brake
In addition to this, the following bleeding procedures are used.
Bleeding after disconnecting the wheel cylinder/caliper coupler
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PROCEDURE |
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Bleeding the separation field of pressure regulating couplings
PROCEDURE |
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Bleeding After Disconnecting the Hydraulic Unit Coupling
Toyota Ram. Manual - part 30
Brake system 119
d) Remove the trim panel
owls of the parking brake.
e) Loosen the locknut and turn
adjusting nut connector
cable bracket up to nominal
parking pedal travel
Moving the parking pedal
brakes on force
pressing 294 N 4 -6 clicks
e) Tighten the locknut.
Tightening torque 13 N.m
g) Press and release the pedal
parking brake several times.
Make sure the parking pedal travel is
foot brake has not changed.
h) Check that the parking brake cables are
the brakes are not overdriven.
i) Make sure the indicator is up
night brake works normally
but (the indicator lights up before the first
clicks).
j) Install trim panel
parking brake cables.
Thickness check
brake pads
Front brakes
1. Remove the wheel and temporarily fix
those brake disc wheel nuts.
2. Through the control hole into the soup
port, check the thickness of the pads"
brake pads.
Minimum lining thickness
brake pads 1.0 mm
Nominal lining thickness
brake pads 9.5 mm
Replace pads if necessary.
3. Install the wheel.
Tightening torque 103 Nm
Rear brakes
1. Remove the inspection hole plug
stia.
2. Through the hole in the brake shield
check the thickness of the brake pads
pads.
Minimum lining thickness
brake pads 1.0 mm
Nominal lining thickness
brake pads 4.0 mm
Removing the brake pedal. 1 - fork axle, 2 - cotter pin, 3, 4 - bushing, 5 - washer,
6, 8 - brake pedal stop, 7 - return spring, 9 - brake pedal,
10 - pedal pad.
Brake pedal
1. When removing and installing the pedal
mosa guided assembly ri
See "Removing the brake pedal".
Note: when installed on
surfaces indicated by arrows,
apply grease.
2. After installation, adjust according to
position of the brake pedal (see corresponding
current section).
Main brake
Removal and installation
follow the assembly pattern
"Removing the brake master cylinder
2. After installation:
a) Fill the brake fluid reservoir
bone and pump the brake system
brake distance.
Stem length adjustment
vacuum booster
1. Install a new gasket on
master brake cylinder.
2. Install the adjuster
sewing on the gasket, and then opus
turn the adjusting screw until light
piston touch.
3. Turn the adjuster over
tool and install it on your
vacuum amplifier.
4. Measure the gap between the end of the
vacuum booster and head
adjusting screw.
Nominal clearance 0 mm
5. If the clearance does not match
given, adjust the stem length,
as it shown on the picture.
Brake system
Removing the brake master cylinder. 1 - the main brake cylinder in
assembly, 2 - gasket, 3, 4 - bracket.
Master brake cylinder. 1 - cover, 2 - mesh filter, 3 - tank,
4 - rubber bushing, 5 - gasket, 6 - locking bolt, 7 - piston No. 2,
8 - piston No. 1, 9 - retaining ring.
Note: when assembling on the surfaces indicated by the arrows, on the
use a special grease that does not damage the rubber.
vacuum booster
brakes
Checking the vacuum
brake booster
1. Press the brake pedal without
how many times with engine off
lem and make sure that the power reserve is not
dali does not change.
2. Press the brake pedal and
start the engine. If the pedal
the mosa will smoothly go down, then the vacuum-.
ny amplifier is operational.
3. Check airtight
bridge of the vacuum booster.
a) Start the engine and stop
after one or two minutes of work.
Slowly press the pedal
moz several times.
If the first time you press the pedal
will fall lower than in the second and
third, vacuum booster ger
Serviceable Faulty
b) Press the brake pedal while
running engine and stop
those it at the pressed pedal. If
distance between floor and pressed
pedal for thirty seconds
will not change, vacuum booster
sealed.
4. Check with pressure gauges.
a) Connect pressure gauges and vacuum
ummeter as shown in the picture, and
remove air from the system.
b) Check for tightness.
Start the engine. stop
engine when the vacuum is
approximately 500 mm Hg. Art.
For 15 seconds, the vacuum does not drop.
V) Check tightness without
Start the engine and press
brake pedal with a force of 200 N. OS
rev the engine when less often
nie will be approximately 500 mm Hg. Art.
After stopping the engine for
15 seconds vacuum drop
will be no more than 25 mm Hg. Art.
d) Checking when the unit is not working
Stop the engine. Make sure
that the vacuum is 0 kPa.
Check if the pressure is correct
brake fluid
our values with an effort on ne
brake distance 196 N and 294 N (see
table "Permissible values given
brake fluid when you
running engine").
e) Checking the operation of the amplifier.
Start the engine. Create times
cutting 500 mmHg Art. Check
pressure at different forces on
pressing the brake pedal (see tab.
face "Permissible pressure values
brake fluid when starting
puppy engine").
Table. Valid values
off engine.
Pressing force
on the pedal
brakes, N
Pressure
brake
liquids, MPa
Table. Valid values
brake fluid pressure at
running engine.
Pressing force
on the pedal
brakes, N
Pressure
brake
liquids, MPa
2,51
4,93
6,92
7,40
Brake system 121
Verification of the reverse
Remove check valve and make sure
those that the air passes to the side
engine (and does not reverse
side. Replace if necessary
Removal and installation
vacuum booster
brakes
1. When removing and installing the vacuum
brake booster guide
assembly drawing "Vacuum Removal
brake booster".
2. After installation:
a) Bleed the brake system
b) Check for leaks.
c) Check and adjust the
brake distance.
Stem length adjustment
vacuum booster
(See section "Main brake qi
Front brakes
Removal and installation
1. When removing and installing the manual
follow the assembly drawing "Pe
red brakes.
2. Installation is done in order,
reverse withdrawal.
3. After installation, fill the tank
brake fluid, pump
brake system and check for
leaks.
Brake Fluid Type.... SAE J 1703
or FMVSS 116 DOT3 or DOT4
Replacing the dust
1. Install the caliper bracket in a vise.
Attention: when installing the bracket in
vise, use pads made of soft
some metal on the vise jaws.
2. Using a screwdriver and a plastic
hammer, remove the dust cover
hall as shown in the picture.
3. Install a new dustproof
a) Apply grease
on the inside of the case.
Removing the vacuum brake booster. 1 - control cable clamp
throttle valve, 2 - throttle control cable,
3 - wiring harness, 4 - brake pipe No. 1, 5 - brake pipe No. 2,
6 - brake pipe No. 3, 7 - bracket, 8 - brake master cylinder in
assembly, 9 - gasket, 10 - vacuum brake booster, 11 - clamp,
12 - gasket, 13 - cotter pin, 14 - fork, 15 - return spring, 16 - axis
forks, 17 - vacuum hose, 18 - air hose fitting, 19 - pro
masonry, 20 - clamp, 21 - air hose, 22 - bracket for brake pipes.
Note: when installing on the surfaces indicated by the arrows, on
carry grease.
b) Using a suitable mandrel,
install a new dust cover
Note: if necessary, replace
thread at least one brake
boat, then replace everything, for obes
baking uniformity of braking.
When replacing pads, anti-squeal
gaskets also change.
Examination
1. Measure the thickness of the pads
brain pads.
Minimum lining thickness
brake pads 1.0 mm
Nominal lining thickness
brake pads 9.5 mm
Replace the pads if the thickness is
clutches are less than the minimum or if
pads worn unevenly.
2. Check plate liners.
a) Clean with special liquid
liners and their places of installation.
Make sure the earbuds are
in normal condition.
b) After installing the lamellar
earbuds, make sure they are not
fall out.
3. Using a caliper, measure
the thickness of the brake disc.
Nominal thickness
brake disc 18 mm
Minimum Thickness
brake disc 16 mm
122 Brake system
4. Measure brake disc runout
at a distance of 10 mm from the outer
edges.
Max runout 0.05mm
If the beating of the brake disc pain
less than or equal to the maximum value
nii, then check the axial clearance under
spike and hub runout.
5. Adjust if necessary
disc beat.
a) Loosen the two screws and remove
caliper bracket.
b) Unscrew the nuts and remove the torus
brain disk.
c) Reinstall the disk
returning it 1/4 of a turn from
initial position on stu
pizza, measure the runout of the disc during
all installation options. Select
the smallest value obtained
nyh. Compare it with max.
admissible.
d) If the value obtained is less
less than the maximum, install the disk
in this position, install the bracket
caliper and tighten bolts
e) If the resulting pain value
then, replace the disc and repeat step
you are "v" and "g".
finger, 5 - anti-creak pad No. 1, 6, 13 - brake shoe,
7, 8, 11, 12 - retaining plate insert, 9 - wear indicator
pads, 10 - caliper bracket, 14 - anti-creak gasket No. 3, 15 - anti
violin gasket No. 2, 16 - bleeder cap, 17 - pro
pitching, 18, 19, 23, 24 - boot, 20 - brake caliper,
21, 22 - guide pin bushing, 25 - cuff, 26 - piston, 27 - che
hall, 28 - retaining ring.
Note: when assembling, on the parts indicated by the arrows, apply:
- special grease that does not damage rubber,
- special grease for brake mechanisms.
Rear brakes
1. Remove the inspection hole plug
and check the thickness through it
brake pads.
Minimum thickness 1.0 mm
If the lining thickness is less than
the least admissible, replace the torus
brain pads.
2. Remove the rear wheel.
3. Remove the brake drum.
Note for 2WD models: see
relevant section of the chapter
"Suspension".
Note: if the brake bar
ban is not removed easily, follow
the following procedures:
a) Remove the service plug from
b) Insert a screwdriver into the service
opening of the brake shield and
move the auto adjust lever
torus from the regulator.
c) Using another screwdriver, turn
turn on the automatic regulator
to reduce its length.
Removing the front brake pad.
a) Using a special tool, remove
connect the return spring.
b) Using the special tool, remove
press the holder spring, seat
springs (2WD) and holder.
c) Disconnect the fixing rod
zhine from the front brake shoe
ki and remove the front brake
block.
d) Remove the fixing spring from
rear brake pad.
Removing the rear brake pad.
a) Using the special tool, remove
press the holder spring, seat
springs (2WD) and holder.
b) Using pliers, remove
automatic re lever spring