Toyota Corolla engine protection will help protect the lower part of the car from dirt, stones and dampness, as well as from mechanical damage. Protection can be supplied at dealers or installed after buying a car yourself. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, you should know the required dimensions of the engine crankcase for Toyota Corolla, the method of its fastening, as well as understand the types of crankcase protection and manufacturers.
Engine protection Toyota Corolla 150
Typically, auto parts stores indicate which make and model of car a particular item is intended for. Accordingly, Toyota Corolla 150 owners need to look for a shield whose name indicates their model.
Fits the following parts:
- Protection "AutoSHIELD", art. 6140 - aluminum 4 mm, closes the crankcase and gearbox.
- Alfeco protection, art. ALF.24.01 AL 5 - aluminum 5 mm, closes the crankcase and gearbox.
- Alfeco protection, art. ALF.24.01 st - steel, thickness 2 mm, closes the crankcase and gearbox.
- Rival protection, art. 333.5799.1 - aluminum 5 mm, closes the crankcase and gearbox.
- Protection "AutoARMOR", 111.05774.1 / 111.05799.1 - steel 2 mm
These are only the most popular options, you can buy others in the store. When choosing, be sure to pay attention to the model of the car and the engine - for the same model with different engines, the design of the crankcase protection will be different!
Suitable engine protection dimensions for Toyota Corolla 150
Engine protection Toyota Corolla 2008-2012 has standard dimensions 828x640 mm. If you decide to install crankcase protection on Toyota Corolla 150 from another car, it is important to pay attention not only to the length and width of the part, but also to the functional holes.
Plastic engine protection Toyota Corolla
Plastic protection will protect the crankcase from contamination, but it is ineffective in case of mechanical damage. Manufacturers recommend installing aluminum or steel. Composite protection with a strong impact will burst, and it will be impossible to restore it.
Why do you need engine protection?
- The engine crankcase guard securely covers the bottom of the car, protecting important engine and gearbox components from damage when hitting an uneven road section.
- In addition, the protection closes the elements from pebbles, dirt, sand flying from the road, which, accumulating in the lower part of the machine, cause premature aging and rapid wear of the elements.
- Finally, the third function of the spare part is to protect the car from theft. The fact is that in many cases, in order to start the car, attackers need to get to the wiring, which is located at the bottom of the car. The protective plate securely closes this area and eliminates the risk of intrusion.
Thus, if you purchase a new Toyota Corolla 150 engine protection, you do not need to know its dimensions. All you have to do is enter your car model and engine number. If you plan to install protection from another car, the Prius, Auris and Lexus CT200h protections are suitable for the Corolla 150 with a 1.6 engine.
Toyota Corolla is a modern, ergonomic and stylish car that has found its loyal fans in different parts of the world. Why is he so unique? Toyota Corolla has a thoughtful design to the smallest detail, which manifests itself in smooth lines and beautiful external curves of the body. Matte color with a slight gloss perfectly emphasizes the beauty and modernity of the vehicle.
This is the perfect model for both men and women. It has a compact size, but has the highest capacity. The interior salon is the result of a long-term work of a team of engineers, designers who managed to create perfection. Toyota Corolla dimensions are a separate topic for conversation. But, it is guaranteed that this car will not leave anyone indifferent.
Distinctive parameters of the vehicle
A distinctive feature of all cars of this line is the shape of the body, as well as the number of doors and seats for passengers. Toyota Corolla thanks to this turns into an ideal family car.
Another characteristic feature is the height of the car. Toyota Corollas are quite tall cars due to the raised suspension. In general, this only facilitates the operation of the vehicle. These are the main characteristics that distinguish the dimensions and dimensions of the car from other vehicles.
It should also be remembered that Toyota Corolla is a generalized name for a line of different models. Each of them has a range of features. For example, a striking example would be the Toyota Corolla E-120, whose production began back in 2000. Body type - sedan, has 5 seats.
The second example is the Toyota Corolla Fielder. This vehicle model appeared a year later. Body type - sedan. But this modification is characterized by a longer body when compared with all previous models. Thus, manufacturers at that time tried to comply with all modern trends and the wishes of customers. In general, the body dimensions of all Toyota Corolla models change. What is it connected with? All changes are associated with different vehicle configurations and generations.
The principle of development of the automotive industry is regular engineering improvement and full satisfaction of customer requirements. The Japanese concern Toyota follows this rule for more than one generation of cars. Toyota Corolla in 150 body is no exception. Technical characteristics of Toyota Corolla 2008 allowed the car to become the leader in sales in the world market. Toyota Corolla E150 took a strong position. The popular sedan was released in 2006 for its fortieth anniversary. In terms of technical equipment, the Corolla in the 150th body was very different from its predecessors.
Restyling Toyota Corolla 150
Toyota 1NR-FE engine
Toyota Corolla 2007 has been in great demand since the beginning of production, motorists prefer this car, which has reliability, safety and a good set of technical characteristics.
Toyota designers and engineers care about car drivers. The car is equipped with everything necessary to make travel at any time of the year comfortable and enjoyable.
To perform the main functions, the passenger car was equipped with 4-cylinder engines with low fuel consumption.
In Russia, Corolla E150 cars were officially sold only with gasoline engines and front-wheel drive. For Europe, cars were supplied with diesel engines.
The 10th generation Toyota Corolla sedan could officially be bought with three engines:
- 1.3 l, gasoline 1NR-FE 101 hp, manual transmission, cylinder diameter - 7.25 cm, piston stroke - 8 cm, compression ratio - 11.5 to 1, maximum torque - 132 Nm .;
- 1.4 l, gasoline 4ZZ-FE 97 horsepower, manual transmission, cylinder diameter - 7.9 cm, piston stroke - 7.1 cm, compression ratio as in the 1.3-liter modification, torque limit - 130 Nm. ;
- 1.6 l, gasoline, 1ZR-FE 124 horses, manual transmission, automatic transmission or robot, cylinder diameter - 8 cm, piston stroke - 7.8 cm, compression ratio - 10.2 to one, maximum torque - 157 Nm.
Moto Corolla
After restyling in 2010, only two engines of 1.3 and 1.6 liters remained. Models with both types of engines show good efficiency: 6-7 liters per hundred kilometers.
Gearboxes Toyota Corolla 150
In 2010, the Toyota Corolla in the back of the E150 was finalized in terms of some technical characteristics, the interior and exterior of the car. Cars with a six-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmission were delivered to the Russian market.
Stern Toyota Corolla 150
Separate Toyota Corolla models back in 2008 were equipped with a transmission - a robot. But the work did not suit motorists. Frequent complaints led to the transfer of the Corolla to an automatic transmission.
On the restyled Corolla E150 models, the robot was no longer installed.
Technical characteristics of Toyota Corolla on the machine (automatic transmission) differed from the mechanics of 2008, slightly increased fuel consumption per hundred kilometers.
Suspension
The basic technical characteristics of the 10th generation Corolla are of a high level, including the suspension. Front struts - McPheron, a torsion beam is used on the rear axle. The simple design guarantees comfort, reliability and durability on less than perfect roads. The technical parameters of the suspension add acceptable maneuverability to the Corolla sedan, as evidenced by numerous positive reviews from car owners.
Toyota Corolla 150 after the update
Toyota Corolla cars, released in 2011, stood out from the coming generations with a modified body, updated interior and semi-independent suspension. The front one is Macpheron struts of an L-arm shape, but already with an anti-roll bar installed. A beam was placed at the back with a device for absorbing bumps on the roads. The suspension of this car model is considered the most durable and can withstand more than a hundred thousand kilometers without expensive repairs.
Specifications Toyota Corolla 2011 in combination with high ground clearance (150mm) provide a comfortable ride on bumpy roads.
Tires and wheels
The compact car Toyota Corolla 2011 has three basic configurations: basic (CE), comfortable (LE) and sports (S).
The CE model includes the required standard set of specifications and options. In particular, the tire pressure monitoring system, steel rims 195/65 R15. Some modifications were equipped with steel alloy wheels 205/55R16. On the sports Corolla, 16-inch alloy wheels were installed.
And how do you like these wheels for the Corolla 150?
In Europe, wheels were installed in sizes R15, 16 and 17. The 10th generation Toyota Corolla was sold in the American market with 18-inch wheels.
Corolla 150 body
Toyota Corolla E150 is available only in a sedan body, the technical characteristics of which are slightly different from cars of previous generations. The rigidity of the body was increased, which increased the weight of the car. The weight of the 2008 Toyota Corolla is almost 1.3 tons, taking into account the internal equipment and in various trim levels. Rigidity allowed to increase the safety of the car, this was facilitated by the use of high-strength steel.
Dimensions Toyota Corolla 150
The dimensions of the tenth generation sedan were slightly increased in contrast to the previous E120 model: length - 4.54 m, width - 1.76 m, height - 1.47 m. The wheelbase of the Toyota Corolla (2008) is 2.6 m, road clearance (clearance) - 0.15 m. With an increase in the size of the car, the trunk volume also increased to 450 liters.
Cabin size Corolla in the back 150
If necessary, the clearance of the Toyota Corolla can be raised using spacers for shock absorbers. The ride height will increase, but the vehicle will no longer be stable when driving at high speed and will lose maneuverability. You can reduce the clearance by replacing the factory shock absorbers with tuning ones. In this case, the car will become more manageable.
Black Corolla on huge wheels.
Restyling Corolla E150 in 2010 made the car the safest for drivers, passengers and pedestrians. This is confirmed by crash tests. The machine is equipped with active and passive safety systems.
Fuel consumption
The fuel tank capacity of a 2008 Toyota Corolla is 55 liters. Most gasoline versions of the car use AI-95 fuel, previous generations also fill with 92.
Swift Toyota Corolla 150
Fuel consumption (in liters) of 3 variations of the Corolla E150 for various types of driving (extra-urban / urban / combined cycle) per hundred kilometers:
- 1NR-FE 1.3L: 4.9/7.3/5.8;
- 4ZZ-FE 1.4L: 5.7/8.6/6.7;
- 1ZR-FE 1.6L: 5.8/8.9/6.9;
- 2ZR-FE 1.8: 6/9.3/7.2.
Diesel cars consume 4.4 liters, 7 liters and 5.3 liters, respectively. Such parameters are typical for a Corolla with a manual transmission. Automatic machines in such modes consume more, which indicates the cost-effectiveness of modifications with a diesel unit.
Corolla 150 might look epic)
For comparison, the 2007 Toyota Corolla has 9.9 liters of gasoline per 100 km when driving in the city, and 6.5 liters on the highway.
Dynamics
Released in 2010, Toyota Corolla cars demonstrate high quality, like previous generations. But they differ in new technical characteristics: modern design, comfortable interior and excellent dynamics.
Toyota Corolla 150 dorestyle
Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Basic car malfunctions - part 2
ENGINE TAKE LONG WARM UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Faulty thermostat | Check the thermostat | Replace defective thermostat |
| Low air temperature (below -15 °С) | - | Insulate the engine: cover the slot on the front bumper with windproof material |
Knocking and clicking when turning the car
| Worn outer drive joint | Remove the drive and check the hinge. Replace pivot or drive assembly if necessary. |
| Lack of lubrication in the joint | Examine the cover. Remove the drive, check the hinge. Fill the hinge with new grease in sufficient quantity, replace the damaged hinge boot. If there is play, replace the pivot or actuator assembly. |
| Badly worn intermediate bearing | Remove the bracket of the intermediate support, check the play in the bearing. Replace intermediate bearing if necessary. |
Vibrations during acceleration and deceleration
Battery faults
| The battery is discharged The starter does not crank the engine or cranks slowly, the lamps are dim | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| The car has not been used for a long time | Charge the battery with a charger or in another car |
| Loose belt tension | Tighten the alternator drive belt. |
| When the engine is off, many consumers of electricity are working (head unit of the sound reproduction system, etc.) | Reduce the number of consumers running on batteries |
| Damage to the insulation of electrical circuits, leakage of current on the surface of the battery | Check the leakage current (no more than 11 mA with disconnected consumers), clean the surface of the battery. Watch out, acid! |
| Faulty generator | See diagnostics generator malfunctions |
| Short circuit between the plates (“boiling” of the electrolyte, local heating of the battery) | Replace battery |
The indicator of lack of a charge of the rechargeable battery burns
| The indicator of the absence of a battery charge is on. The voltage of the vehicle's on-board network is below 15 V | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Loose alternator drive belt | Pull up the belt |
| Faulty voltage regulator. | Replace Regulator |
| Damaged rectifier diodes | Replace rectifier |
| The connection of the terminals of the field winding with slip rings is broken, short circuit or open circuit in the winding | Solder leads, replace alternator rotor or alternator assembly |
| An open or short circuit in the stator winding, shorting it to ground (when the generator is shorted, it howls) | Check the winding with an ohmmeter. Replace stator or generator assembly |
The voltage of the car's on-board network is above 15.1
Generator noise
| Generator noise | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Damaged generator bearings (squeal, howl). The noise remains when the wires are disconnected from the generator and disappears when the drive belt is removed | Replace rear bearing, front bearing cap or alternator assembly |
| Short circuit in the stator winding (howling). The noise disappears if you disconnect the wires from the generator | Replace stator or generator assembly |
| Short circuit in one of the diodes. The noise disappears if you disconnect the wires from the generator | Replace rectifier |
The low battery indicator does not light up
| The low battery indicator does not light up when the ignition is turned on | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Blown fuse F1 of the mounting block in the car | Find out and eliminate the cause of the burnout. Replace fuse |
| Open in the circuit "ignition switch - instrument cluster" | Check the wires from the ignition switch to the mounting block and from the mounting block to the instrument cluster |
| Ignition switch contacts not closing | Check the contact closure with a tester. Replace contact part or switch assembly |
The battery charge indicator does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running. The voltage of the vehicle's on-board network is below 14.4 Volts
| The battery charge indicator does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running. The voltage of the vehicle's on-board network is below 14.4 V | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Wear or sticking of brushes, oxidation of slip rings | Replace the brush holder with brushes, wipe the rings with a clean rag soaked in gasoline |
| Damaged voltage regulator | Replace voltage regulator |
| Faulty rectifier unit | Replace rectifier |
| The connection of the wire with the output of the brush holder is broken. | Reconnect the wire to the brush holder terminal |
| Soldering the field winding leads from slip rings | Solder leads or replace alternator rotor or alternator assembly |
When you press the gas pedal all the way to the floor, the kickdown mode does not turn on
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Low transmission fluid level | |
| Test the engine management system (at a service center). Replace defective items | |
| Selector lever cable misadjusted, selector lever position sensor or circuits faulty | Adjust the drive (in the service center), if necessary, replace the defective cable. Check the sensor (in the service center), replace the faulty sensor |
The engine starts in other modes except "P" and "N"
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| The adjustment of the engine start permission sensor is violated | Adjust the position of the sensor (in the service center) |
| Faulty engine management system | |
| Gear selector cable misaligned | Adjust the drive (in the service center), if necessary, replace the cable |
Jerks when shifting gears, the car does not move when you turn on the "D" or "R"
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Low liquid level in the box | Check the fluid level according to the pointer, add fluid if necessary |
| Faulty selector lever position sensor | Diagnose the sensor (in the service center), replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty engine management system | Diagnose the engine management system (at a service center), replace faulty elements |
Lighting and light signaling
The lamps of the block headlights, lanterns do not burn
| The lamps of the block headlights, lanterns do not burn | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Bulb filament burnt out | Replace lamp |
| Blown fuse | Check the circuit protected by the blown fuse for a short to ground, replace the fuse |
| Relay contacts are oxidized, relay windings are burned out, switches are faulty | Clean contacts, replace relays, switches |
The turn signal indicator flashes at double the frequency
The turn signal switch lever does not return to its original position, the steering column switch lever does not lock
Fogging headlight lens
windshield wiper
The cleaner motor does not work, the circuit protection fuse in the mounting block is good
| The cleaner motor does not work, the circuit protection fuse in the mounting block is good | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Steering column switch malfunction | Replace faulty purifier switch |
| The brushes of the electric motor are stuck, the collector is very dirty or burnt | Eliminate stuck brushes, clean the commutator or replace the geared motor |
| Break in the motor armature winding | Replace gear motor |
| Auxiliary relay defective | Replace relay |
The cleaner motor does not work, the cleaner circuit protection fuse in the mounting block blows
| The cleaner motor does not work, the cleaner circuit protection fuse in the mounting block blows | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Brushes stuck to glass | After turning off the cleaner, carefully separate the brushes from the glass, check the integrity of the rubber scraper, restore the mobility of the brush joints |
| Wiper brushes touch body parts | Check the correct installation of the levers, straighten the deformed levers or replace the cleaner |
| Short circuit in the motor winding | Replace gear motor |
Wiper motor not intermittent
Wiper motor does not stop intermittently
| Wiper motor does not stop intermittently | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Faulty purifier relay | Replace relay |
| The petals of the limit switch are poorly pressed against the gear of the gear motor | Bend the contact petals of the limit switch |
| Limit switch contacts oxidized or burnt | Clean the contacts or replace the purifier gear motor |
Brushes stop at random position
The brushes are out of sync
Wiper motor runs but brushes do not move
Separate threads of the heating element of the rear window heating do not heat up
Not a single thread of the heating element heats up
| Not a single thread of the heating element heats up | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Faulty switch, relay, rear window heating fuse, damaged wires, oxidized or poorly connected tips, disconnected contact from the glass heating element | Faulty switch, relay, fuse, wires replace. Clean, crimp the tips. Replace glass with heating element |
Heater fan motor does not work
| Heater fan motor does not work | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Damaged wires, oxidized or loose ends | Crimp and strip ferrules, replace faulty wires |
| Wear, freezing of the motor brushes, open or short circuit in the armature winding, oxidation or wear of the collector | Clean manifold or replace motor |
| Faulty switch | Replace Switch |
Heater fan motor does not run at low speed
Coolant temperature gauge or fuel gauge not working
| Coolant temperature gauge or fuel gauge not working | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Bad pointer | Replace instrument cluster |
| Faulty sensor | Replace pointer sensor |
| Damaged wires, oxidized or loose ends | Crimp lugs, replace faulty wires |
The fuel reserve indicator is constantly on
The fuel gauge needle twitches and often deviates to zero
Warning lights do not light up
Speedometer not working
| Speedometer not working | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Faulty speed sensor | Replace speed sensor |
| Faulty speedometer | Replace instrument cluster |
Tachometer not working
Horn malfunctions
| The horn does not work | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| The signal is faulty, its switch, relay, fuse blown, wires are damaged, their tips are oxidized or poorly connected | Try restoring the sound by turning the screw on the signal housing. Strip, crimp the tips of the wires. Faulty signal, switch, relay, wires, blown fuse - replace |
| Weak, hoarse signal sound | |
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| The signal is faulty, the wires are damaged, their tips are oxidized or poorly connected | Adjust the sound by turning the screw on the signal housing. Strip, crimp the tips of the wires. Faulty signal, switch, wires - replace |
Moving the vehicle away from straight ahead (on a flat road)
| Moving the vehicle away from straight ahead (on a flat road) | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Inconsistent air pressure in tires | |
| Violation of the angles of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation and / or camber of the front wheels | Adjust the angles of inclination of the axis of rotation and / or camber of the front wheels |
| Replace worn tire | |
| Replace both springs | |
| Deformed parts of the suspension and / or car body | Straighten or replace deformed parts and body panels |
| Displacement of the rear axle due to wear of the silent blocks of the rear suspension beam | Replace silent blocks |
| Braking of the wheel due to jamming of the piston of the wheel cylinder | Replace cylinder |
| Braking of the front wheel due to the loosening of the bolts securing the guide pads to the steering knuckle (caliper displaced) | Tighten the bolts |
| Braking of the rear wheel due to weakening or breakage of the return spring of the rear brake pads | Replace spring |
| Increased front wheel imbalance | Balance the wheels |
Rapid tire tread wear
| Rapid tire tread wear | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| High speed, starts with wheel spin, skid braking, cornering with skidding or skidding | |
| Tire pressure out of range | Set normal pressure |
| Contact with rubber-aggressive materials - bitumen, oil, gasoline, solvents, acids, etc. | Change tire |
| Uneven tire tread wear | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Increased wheel imbalance | Balance the wheels |
| Tire deformation, rim | Change wheel |
| Different tire pressure | Set normal pressure |
| Front wheel alignment misaligned | Adjust wheel alignment |
| High speed in corners, their passage with skidding or drifting of wheels | Observe normal speed limits |
| Deterioration of hinges, deformation of suspension or body parts | Replace hinges, deformed suspension parts, spars, body panels |
| Steering play (see also "Increased steering wheel play") | Replace worn joints, tighten threaded connections, adjust the clearance between the gear and the rack in the steering mechanism |
| Defective shock absorber | Replace both shock absorbers |
| Increased steering wheel play | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| The tightening of the nuts for fastening the ball pins of the rods has loosened | Tighten nuts |
| Increased clearance in ball joints, wear of rubber-metal joints of rods | Replace tie rod ends |
| Large gap between rail stop and nut | Adjust steering clearance |
| Steering wheel is hard to turn | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Faulty electric power steering | Replace electric booster |
| No power to electric power steering | Check the power supply of the electric amplifier, its control unit (fuse F31, F5) |
| Front suspension strut top bearing damaged | Replace bearing or support |
| Support bushing or rack stop damaged | Replace damaged parts, apply lubricant |
| Low pressure in the tires of the front wheels | Set normal pressure |
| Damaged tie rod joints | Replace tie rod ends |
| Damaged steering gear bearings | Replace bearings |
Creaking, squealing when braking
| Creaking, squealing when braking | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Limit wear of brake pads | Replace brake pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
| Inclusion of foreign particles (sand) in the lining material | As a rule, does not require intervention (the lining can be cleaned with a wire brush) |
| Poor quality lining material | |
| Severe corrosion of the brake disc (due to poor quality disc and/or lining material) | Replace brake discs |
| Replace the pads (all on the same axle at the same time) | |
| Replace spring | |
| Wheel lock braking | Do not overbrake, use tires suitable for driving conditions |
Vibration when braking
| Vibration when braking | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Brake disc warp | Replace both disks |
| Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the front wheel bearings or loosening of the hub nut) | Tighten the wheel hub nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Stuck piston in rear wheel cylinder | Replace cylinder |
| Brake pad has peeled off the base | Replace the pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
| Weak or broken rear brake pad return spring | Replace spring |
| Car pulling or skidding when braking | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Replace cylinder | |
| Clogged brake lines: tubes or hoses | |
| Detachment of the lining from the base of the brake pad | Replace the block (preferably all on the same axis at the same time) |
| Lubrication of brake discs, drums, linings | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
| An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the overlays (in winter). Wet pads | At the beginning of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly depressing the brake pedal. |
| Different pressure in the tires of the left and right wheels | Set normal pressure |
| Significant difference in tire wear | Replace worn tire |
| Pressure regulator drive misadjusted | Adjust drive |
| Replace Regulator | |
| One of the circuits of the service brake system does not work (braking efficiency is significantly reduced) | Eliminate fluid leakage from the brake system, bleed the system |
| Brake disc warp | Replace both disks |
| Axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the front wheel bearings or loosening of the hub nut) | Tighten the wheel hub nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Ovality of the brake drum | Turn or replace the drum |
| Strut shock absorber defective | Replace both shock absorbers |
| Unequal settlement of front suspension springs | Replace both springs |
| Wheel alignment misaligned | Adjust wheel alignment |
Increased brake pedal travel
| Increased brake pedal travel (pedal "soft" or "falling through") | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Air in the brake system, leakage of brake fluid through leaks in the hydraulic drive connections, damage to the cuffs in the main brake cylinder, pressure regulator, damage to the brake pipes and hoses | Inspect all lines, their threaded connections and cylinders, eliminate leaks. Restore the normal fluid level in the brake reservoir and bleed the system. If any damage to the brake hoses (cracks, swelling or traces of brake fluid) is found, replace the hoses. If you suspect defects in the master brake cylinder, replace it with a serviceable one. |
| The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to the ingress of oil, gasoline, etc. into the brake fluid. | |
| Overheating of the brakes | Let the brakes cool down. Use only DOT-4 brake fluids in the system. Replace brake fluid promptly |
| Increased gap between pads and drum (automatic gap adjustment device does not work) | Replace wheel cylinder, bleed system |
| One of the circuits of the working brake system does not work | Eliminate fluid leakage from the brake system, bleed the system |
| Increased (more than 0.15 mm) runout of the brake disc | Replace both disks |
Car slows down badly
| The brake pedal travel is within the normal range (the pedal is hard), but the car brakes badly | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Jamming of the piston of the wheel cylinder | Replace cylinder |
| Replace damaged tubes and hoses | |
| Lubrication of brake discs, drums, linings | |
| Complete wear of the brake linings (brake grinding) | Replace brake pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
| Poor quality lining material | |
| Severe corrosion of the brake disc (due to poor quality disc and/or lining material) | Replace disks |
| Brake pad has peeled off the base | Replace the pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
| Pressure regulator drive misadjusted | Adjust drive |
| Defective pressure regulator | Replace Regulator |
| The vacuum booster is faulty or the hose connecting the booster to the receiver is leaky | Check the integrity of the hose, its fit on the fittings, tightness of the clamps. Check the operation of the amplifier |
| Incomplete release of all wheels | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| No free play on the brake pedal | Adjust pedal free play |
| Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain the brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and pump | |
| Jammed master cylinder piston (due to corrosion, broken return springs) | Replace master cylinder, bleed system |
| Braking of one of the wheels with the brake pedal released | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Jamming of the piston of the wheel cylinder | Replace cylinder |
| The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to the ingress of oil, gasoline, etc. into the brake fluid. | Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain the brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and pump |
| Clogged brake lines: tubes (due to dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of rubber) | Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
| Jamming pads due to severe contamination of the supporting surfaces of the caliper | Remove the pads, clean the bearing surfaces of the pads and caliper |
| Detachment of the lining of the rear brake pad | Replace the pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
| Weak or broken rear brake pad return spring | Replace spring |
| Deformation of the spacer bar, misalignment of the pads due to deformation of the brake shield | Straighten or replace spacer bar, brake shield |
| Weak fastening of the guide pads to the steering knuckle | Tighten the bolts |
| The parking brake is pulled, the cables are wedged in the shells | Adjust the tension of the cables, lubricate them with engine oil if the sheath is damaged or the wires of the cable are frayed, and also replace the cable if severe corrosion |
| Insufficient efficiency of the parking brake system | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Adjust drive | |
| Drive cables stuck in sheaths | Lubricate the cables with engine oil if the sheath is damaged or the cable wires are frayed, and if the cable is severely corroded, replace the cable |
| Greased brake drums, linings | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
| An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the overlays (in winter). Wet pads | At the beginning of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly depressing the brake pedal. |
When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels do not brake.
| When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels do not brake. | |
|---|---|
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination Methods |
| Incorrect drive adjustment | Adjust drive |
| After a long parking of the car, the pads stuck (or froze) to the drum | Pulling the lever or cables, try to carefully (so as not to rip off the brake linings) to turn the wheel. When parking the car, if possible, do not apply the brake, but shift into gear |
Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Basic car malfunctions - part 1
LOWER COOLANT LEVEL IN THE EXPANSION TANK
| Diagnostics | Elimination Methods | |
|---|---|---|
| Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, weakening of their fit on the nozzles | Inspection. The tightness of radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar | Replace damaged parts |
| Fluid leakage through the coolant pump seal | Inspection | Replace pump |
| Cylinder head gasket damaged. Block or cylinder head defect | The oil level indicator shows an emulsion with a whitish tint. There may be abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine | Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for climatic conditions |
ANOTHER NOISES AND KNOCKS IN THE ENGINE
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Check clearances | Adjust gaps | |
| Repair the engine | ||
| The timing belt is worn out. Faulty drive idler or support rollers | Inspection | Replace belt. Replace defective timing idler or idler rollers |
| Wear of bearings and camshaft cams, connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, pistons, piston pins, play or seizing in the bearings of the generator, coolant pumps and power steering | Examination | Repair or replacement of parts |
| Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more supports of the power unit | Inspection | Replace support |
| Low pressure in the oil line (at minimum idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 1.0 bar) | Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting a pressure gauge to the oil line by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor | Troubleshoot the lubrication system |
| Wear of the oil pump drive chain | Checking the chain tension after removing the oil pan | Replace oil pump drive chain |
STRONG ENGINE VIBRATION
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven compression across the cylinders more than 2.0 bar: gaps in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings | We check the compression. Compression must be at least 11.0 bar | |
| Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or “breakdown” of the ignition coil windings and high-voltage wires | Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years | |
| The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected | Inspection | Connect the wires in accordance with the markings on the ignition coil |
| Check candles | Replace defective spark plugs | |
| Open or short circuit in the windings of the injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter | |
| The support of the power unit has lost elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened | Inspection | Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
INCREASED CONTENT OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES IN EXHAUST GASES
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty | Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern | Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Replace leaky or heavily soiled injectors. |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | To check the high-voltage wires and ignition coils, replace them with known good ones. | Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the center electrode | Check candles | Replace defective spark plugs |
| Faulty air temperature sensor in the intake manifold or its circuit | Tester check the sensor | |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor | Replace defective sensor | |
| Check throttle position sensor | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor | |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor or circuit | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment | |
| Faulty absolute air pressure sensor and its circuit | You can check the health of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace faulty ECU | |
| Leakage of the exhaust system in the area between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe | Inspection at medium speeds of the crankshaft | Replace defective gasket, tighten threaded connections |
| Faulty catalytic converter | You can check the serviceability of the catalytic converter of exhaust gases using diagnostic equipment | Replace catalytic converter |
| Increased pressure in the fuel system due to a malfunctioning pressure regulator | Inspection, checking with a manometer the pressure in the fuel system (no more than 3.5 bar) at idle | |
| Increased resistance to air flow in the intake tract | Check air filter element, intake tract (for foreign objects, leaves, etc.) | Clean the intake tract, replace the dirty air filter element |
| Entry of a large amount of oil into the engine combustion chambers due to wear or damage to valve stem seals, valve stems, valve guides, piston rings, pistons and cylinders | Inspection after engine disassembly | Repair the engine |
Clutch does not fully engage (slips)
| Pads of a conducted disk are strongly worn out | Replace driven disk |
| Lubrication of the flywheel, drive plate, friction linings | Rinse the driven and driving discs with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace oil seals) |
| Drive disk failure | Replace driven disk |
| Faulty drive plate diaphragm spring |
Clutch won't disengage (drives)
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Air in hydraulic clutch release | Bleed the hydraulic clutch release |
| Distortion or distortion of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Wear of the petals of the diaphragm spring at the point of contact with the release bearing | Replace Drive Disc Assembly |
| Jamming of the hub of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox | Inspect the splines, if the hub is significantly damaged, replace the driven disk. Before assembly, apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines of the gearbox shaft |
| The driven disk is “glued” to the flywheel or the drive disk (after a long stop) | Chock the wheels, engage first gear and apply the parking brake. While depressing the brake and clutch pedals at the same time, turn the engine crankshaft with the starter |
Clutch pedal "fails" or is pressed very easily
Jerks when starting
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Oiling the working surfaces of the friction linings of the driven disk | Remove the driven and driving discs, wash the parts with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace the oil seal of the gearbox or engine) |
| The friction linings of the driven disk are badly worn | Replace driven disk |
| Settlement or breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Deformation of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Loss of elasticity of springs of a conducted disk | Replace driven disk |
| Jamming of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox, severe wear of the splines of the disk hub | In case of severe wear of the splines of the hub, replace the driven disk. Apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox |
| Clutch diaphragm spring failure | Replace Drive Disc Assembly |
| Faulty powertrain mounts | Inspect supports, replace faulty ones |
Noise when disengaging or engaging the clutch
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn clutch pedal bushings | Remove the pedal, replace the bushings of its axis |
| Strong draft, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations | Replace driven disk |
| Loose fastening or breakage of the friction linings of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Severe wear or damage to the clutch release bearing | Replace the bearing assembly with the working cylinder |
Noise in the gearbox (noise disappears when the clutch is released)
Noise in the gearbox (noise when driving in a certain gear)
Transmissions are hard to turn on
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Faulty clutch | Carry out troubleshooting with clinging |
| Defective (broken, frayed, stuck in sheath) select cable or shift cable | Replace defective cable |
| Replace mechanism | |
| Worn or damaged gear shift mechanism | |
| Worn gear synchronizers | Repair or replace gearbox |
Transmission randomly turns off
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Gearshift mechanism worn out | Repair or replace gearbox |
| Worn or damaged gearbox control mechanism | Carry out troubleshooting "Transmissions are difficult to turn on" |
| Worn gearbox synchronizer gear clutches | Repair or replace gearbox |
Oil leak from the box
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn input shaft seals, gearshift or wheel drive shafts | Replace defective seal |
| Oil leakage through crankcase joints | Repair the gearbox |
| Oil leakage through reverse sensor and vehicle speed sensor | Install the reverse sensor on the sealant. Replace speed sensor rubber o-rings |
Automatic transmission fluid leak
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Transmission fluid leaking through oil pan seal | Fluid leaks on the gearbox housing. Tighten the sump fixing screws, replace the sump gasket |
| Fluid leak from under the level indicator | Insert the pointer all the way, replace it if necessary |
| Fluid leaking from coolant fittings | Tighten fittings |
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT DRIVE. JERKS AND DISPENSES DURING MOVEMENT
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter (back pressure) (SRT) | ||
| Intake of foreign air into the intake tract | Inspect the joints, check the fit of the throttle assembly, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors. Disconnect the vacuum brake booster for a short time by plugging the inlet pipe fitting | Replace gaskets, O-rings, parts with deformed flanges, faulty vacuum booster |
| Incomplete throttle opening | Determined visually on a stopped engine | Adjust throttle actuator |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Replace defective parts |
| The gaps between the electrodes of the candles do not correspond to the norm | Check clearances | By bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles |
| Strong soot on the electrodes of the spark plugs; ingress of soot particles into the gap between the electrodes | Inspection | Check and replace spark plugs if necessary |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits | Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires | |
| There is not enough fuel in the tank | According to the level indicator and fuel reserve indicator | Top up fuel |
| The fuel filter is clogged, the water that has entered the power system has frozen, the fuel pipes are deformed | Check the pressure in the fuel system | Replace fuel filter. In winter, put the car in a warm garage, blow out the fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes |
| The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system | Check the pressure in the fuel system, make sure the strainer of the fuel module is clean | Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace |
| Poor contact in the fuel pump power circuit (including ground wires) | Checked with an ohmmeter | Strip contacts, crimp wire lugs, replace faulty wires |
| Faulty injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit or short circuit) | Replace faulty injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
| Faulty air temperature sensor or its circuit | Check the sensor and its circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty absolute air pressure sensor or its circuit | You can evaluate the performance of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor | ||
| Faulty computer or its circuits | To check the ECU, replace it with a known good one. | Replace faulty ECU |
| Valve clearance not adjusted | ||
| Strong wear of the camshaft cams | Inspection when disassembling the engine at the service station | Replace a worn camshaft at a service station |
| Sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly | |
| Faulty throttle position sensor or circuit | Check Throttle Position Sensor | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor | Check the resistance of the sensor with a tester at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
POP IN THE INLET LINE
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearance not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve clearances |
| Inlet valves sticking in the guide bushings: gum deposits on the surface of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly (SRT) | Repair the engine (SRT) |
| Valve timing broken | Check valve timing | Set the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft. Check compression |
SHOTS IN THE SILENCER
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearance not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve clearances |
| Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly | Repair the engine at the service station |
| Valve timing broken | Check valve timing | Set the correct relative position of the shafts. Check compression |
| Candles are checked at a special stand (SRT). The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs | |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or “breakdown” (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (when disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Faulty injectors | Check the operation of the injectors |
INCREASED OIL CONSUMPTION (OVER 500 G PER 1000 KM)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft seals; gaskets of the oil pan, cylinder head; oil pressure sensor; oil filter sealing ring | Wash the engine, then after a short run inspect for possible leaks | Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets |
| Wear, loss of elasticity of oil seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings | Inspection of parts when disassembling the engine | Replace worn parts |
| Wear, breakage or coking (loss of mobility) of piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders | Inspection and measurement of parts after engine disassembly | Replace worn pistons and rings. Boring and honing cylinders |
| Use of oil of the wrong viscosity | - | Change oil |
| Clogged crankcase ventilation system | Inspection | Clean the ventilation system |
INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Clogged air filter element | Check the condition of the air filter element | Blow out or replace the air filter element |
| Leakage of the power system | Gasoline smell, fuel leaks | Check the tightness of the connections of the fuel system elements; if a malfunction is found, replace the corresponding components |
| Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Candles are checked on a special stand at the service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs |
| Throttle Actuator Malfunction | Check the stroke of the “gas” pedal, the gap in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
| Faulty idle speed controller or its circuits | Substitute a known-good regulator. | Replace failed regulator |
| Throttle not fully closing | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the housing is visible through the light | Replace Throttle Assembly |
| Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) | Replace failed regulator |
| Nozzle leakage | Check injectors | Replace faulty injectors |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor or circuit | Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Substitute a known-good ECU to test. | Replace faulty ECU, repair damaged electrical circuits |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): gaps in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts |
| Faulty throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits | Check sensors and their circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (sensors) |
| Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged exhaust system components |
| Malfunctions of the running gear and brake system | Check chassis components and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment, replace the faulty parts of the chassis, repair the brake system |
ENGINE KNOCKING (HIGH-STROKE METAL KNOCKS, GENERALLY OCCURRED WHEN THE ENGINE IS WORKING UNDER LOAD, ESPECIALLY AT LOW RPM, FOR EXAMPLE, LOAD ACCELERATION, ETC., AND DISAPPEARING WHEN THE LOAD REDUCES)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| - | ||
| Engine overheating | According to the coolant temperature gauge | Eliminate the cause of overheating ( "The engine gets very hot") |
| Inspection after removal of the cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation ( Carry out troubleshooting "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oils of the recommended viscosity and low ash content if possible. | |
| Using spark plugs with the wrong glow rating | - | Use spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer |
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE (LOW OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL ON)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Little oil in the engine | According to the oil level indicator | Add oil |
| Defective oil filter | Substitute a filter with a known good one. | Replace defective oil filter |
| Auxiliary drive pulley bolt loose | Check bolt tightness | Tighten bolt to specified torque |
| Clogging of the oil receiver screen | Inspection | clear the grid |
| Misaligned, clogged oil pump relief valve or weakened valve spring | Inspection when disassembling the oil pump | Clean or replace faulty relief valve. Replace pump |
| Oil pump gear wear | Replace oil pump | |
| Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals | It is determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) | Replace worn liners. Replace or repair crankshaft if necessary |
| Faulty low oil pressure sensor | We unscrew the low oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known-good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty | Replace faulty low oil pressure sensor |
ENGINE OVERHEATS (ENGINE OVERHEAT LIGHT ON)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Faulty thermostat | Check the thermostat | Replace defective thermostat |
| Insufficient amount of coolant | The fluid level is below the "MIN" mark on the expansion tank | Eliminate leaks. Add coolant |
| A lot of scale in the cooling system | - | Flush the cooling system with a descaling agent. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water. |
| Radiator cells dirty | Inspection | Flush the radiator with a high pressure water jet |
| Faulty coolant pump | Remove the pump and inspect the assembly | Replace pump assembly |
| Cooling fan does not turn on | Check fan circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits. Faulty fuse, relay, cooling fan, temperature sensor, ECU - replace |
| Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline | - | Fill your car with fuel recommended by the manufacturer |
| A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates | Inspection after removing the engine cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation (see. "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use recommended viscosity oil with low ash content if possible. |
| Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket | The expansion tank smells of exhaust gases and bubbles pop up | Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness of the cylinder head |
ENGINE COOLING FAN IS CONSTANTLY RUNNING (EVEN ON A COLD ENGINE)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| An open in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit | The sensor and circuits are checked with an ohmmeter | Restore contact in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Fan relay contacts not opening | Check by tester | Replace faulty relay |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Check the ECU or substitute with a known good one | Replace faulty ECU |
