To choose the right oil for a moped, it is not enough to consult a seller in a store. Moreover, many of them have only superficial knowledge in the characteristics and properties of motor oils.
Engine oils should be selected depending on the engine that is installed on the motorcycle.
It should be remembered that in the regulatory and technical literature there is no special term "scooter oil". However, there are often oils in the store that are specifically designed for motorcycle and moped engines. They can be purchased safely, paying attention only to what type of engine they are suitable for: two-stroke or four-stroke.
engine's type
When buying motorcycle oil, you need to pay attention to its classification, as well as the content of special additives.
To choose which oil to fill in a scooter, first of all consider the type of engine: products for two-stroke engines are not suitable for four-stroke ones, and vice versa. The fundamental difference in operation: oil for two-stroke engines is mixed with gasoline in a ratio of 1:25 or 1:50, depending on the manufacturer's recommendation. Replacing the lubricant in four-stroke engines occurs by draining the old product from the oil tank, flushing and filling with a new one.
Choosing between mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic moped and scooter oils is easy. For mopeds and economy class scooters, mineral or semi-synthetic is perfect. Mineral varieties are the cheapest, so they are more often purchased by poor scooter owners. But when using them, it should be remembered that they are chemically unstable, so the timing of their replacement must be strictly observed. Semi-synthetics are preferable to mineral, but noticeably more expensive. Synthetic oil is designed for high-speed forced scooters, whose engines place high demands on oil quality. It saves engine life better, has better viscosity, lower volatility, and a wider range of operating temperatures. For inexpensive mopeds, synthetics are just an unnecessary luxury.
Special attention should be paid: it is strictly forbidden to mix mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic oils!
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Marking and viscosity
Engine wear is affected by oil viscosity. The required viscosity depends on the operating temperature of the engine and is usually specified in the operating instructions. The generally accepted viscosity designation standard according to the American SAE methodology: 5W40, 5W30, 10W40, 10W50 or simply SAE 40, SAE 50. Moreover, the first digit indicates the viscosity of the oil in a cold engine, the second - in warmed up to operating temperature. The letter W indicates that the oil belongs to winter or all-season varieties. Summer varieties do not have this letter and first digit (SAE 30, SAE 40). The lower the first number, the better the engine starts in cold weather. But if there is no need to ride a moped in winter, there is no point in using liquid oil. In warm weather, high viscosity provides better lubrication of parts of the power unit, the oil film on rubbing surfaces is not destroyed, dry friction, overheating and destruction of parts are prevented.
For summer, viscosity 10W40, 10W50, SAE 30, SAE 40, etc. is more suitable. The higher the hot viscosity of the oil (second number), the better the oil is suitable for hot operating conditions. In mid-latitudes, SAE 30 or SAE 40 is fine. In hot countries, SAE 50 and even SAE 60 are used.
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Quality standards
Engine oils have different specifications indicating their quality: API, JACO and others.
The oil standard is indicated on the canister. After the letters API comes the letter designation of the quality of the oil: from SA to SM. The S scale indicates that the oil belongs to gasoline engines, the quality scale is indicated by letters from A (low quality) to M (high quality). A total of 11 quality classes are provided: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J, L and M. Products with specifications from SA to SE are almost never produced at present and are only suitable for older equipment manufactured in 80s or 90s. Modern mopeds and scooters consume at least SF quality oil, but it is better if it is SH, SJ or SL.
SH - products for engines manufactured after 1994. SJ - for engines manufactured after 1996. SL - for engines after 2000 of release. SM - for engines after 2006 release.
Two-stroke moped and lawnmower engines require API-TA. For large-capacity two-stroke engines of low power - API-TB standard. For powerful large-capacity two-strokes - the API-TC standard.
The Japanese JASO standard is intended for models of mopeds and motorcycles with a "wet" clutch, that is, a clutch operating in an oil bath. With this design, the powertrain and clutch use the same oil. Accordingly, the replacement of transmission oil on the scooter will occur simultaneously with the replacement of the engine. Therefore, the use of a high quality, low friction product may cause this clutch to slip. JASO is suitable for motorcycles manufactured before 1994 or copied samples of that time. For modern mopeds and scooters, choose JASO MA, JASO MA-1 with a high coefficient of friction. The JASO MA-2 standard has an even higher coefficient of friction, but is intended for sports mopeds and scooters. JASO MB has a low coefficient of friction and is not suitable for wet clutch applications.
For two-stroke engines, the JASO standard has completely different designations. JASO FA - designed for use in developing countries. JASO FB is the minimum quality standard for Japan. JASO FC is a smokeless oil for a wide range of Japanese-made two-stroke engines. JASO FD - for two-stroke engines with increased requirements for the quality of engine oils.
Often there is a European standard for designating the quality of ACEA oils. Grades from ACEA A1 to ACEA A5 are designed for gasoline four-stroke engines (two-stroke engines are not produced in Europe). Moreover, category A2 indicates the lowest quality oil, and A4 - the highest quality. For normal operating engines, category A2 is recommended. Category A3 is recommended to be poured into motors with high performance. Category A4 is used in motorsport. Separate categories A1 (with extra low viscosity) and A5 (the latest oils) are not suitable for all engines and are used only when it is expressly indicated by the manufacturer.
A lot of questions arise from people who for the first time independently service a moped.
The owner's manual says to use oil for four-stroke engines, API SE,SF, viscosity SAE 15W40. Let's try to figure out what this means.
Gearbox oil
The instructions say what kind of oil to fill in the engine, but there is not a word about the gearbox. Although we are all used to the fact that transmission oil is poured into the box, usually thicker than in the engine.
Owners of Alpha mopeds (and the like) need to know that gearbox, engine and clutch are in the same (common) crankcase and are lubricated with the same oil. Thus, you do not have to think about what kind of oil and where to fill it. It is one!
Oil for four-stroke engines
This phrase means that two-stroke oil must not be poured into the moped engine. The thing is that two-stroke engines have a completely different principle of engine lubrication: they have oil mixed with gasoline in certain proportions (either in a gas tank or using a special oil pump), and then, together with gasoline, it first enters the engine crankcase, lubricating the bearings crankshaft and connecting rod, as well as a cylinder mirror. The mixture then enters the combustion chamber, where the oil burns along with the gasoline and exits the engine through the exhaust pipe. Thus two-stroke oil is not designed for long-term operation, it is "disposable".
In most four-stroke engines (and the Alpha has a four-stroke engine), oil is poured into the crankcase and lubricates the rubbing parts either by splashing (due to rotating engine parts) or under pressure (which creates an oil pump). The oil also helps cool the engine. Therefore, the oil in a four-stroke engine must withstand a long service life at high temperatures.
Some owners ask: "Do I need to add oil to gasoline?". Remember: for Alfa mopeds (Delta, Sabur, Vento, etc.) there is no need to add oil to gasoline!
API classification
API is a system for classifying automotive oils by quality. The designation of oil in this system consists of Latin letters.
The first part can be either S (Service)- oil for gasoline engines, C (Commercial)- oil for diesel engines, EC (Energy Conservation)- energy-saving oils.
The next letter is the designation of the oil generation. The designation is in alphabetical order, i.e. the further the letter is from the beginning of the Latin alphabet, the higher the generation of oil (better performance).
The API categories SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG are now invalidated, the SH category is considered conditionally valid. Thus recommended in the instructions for the moped oil categories SE And SF not currently available for sale. What kind of oil to buy then? The answer is to buy any that follows alphabetically (SJ, SL, SM, SN), in any case it will be no worse than the recommended one.
SAE classification
The latest edition of the classification divides motor oils into 11 classes: 6 winter (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W) and 5 summer (20, 30, 40, 50, 60) viscosity grades. Letter W(Winter - winter) in front of the number means that the oil is adapted to work at low temperatures.
Most of the motor oils on the market today are all-weather, i.e. they meet the requirements for viscosity both at low and at high temperatures and have a double designation, for example, as in our case: SAE 15W-40. The first digit characterizes the pumpability of the oil at low temperatures. If you subtract 35 from the first digit, you get the minimum temperature at which a safe cold start of the engine is possible. The second number is the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees Celsius. If you add 5 to the second digit, you get the maximum allowable air temperature at which the oil can be operated.
Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral water?
It is generally accepted that synthetic oils are of the highest quality and almost extend the life of the engine. On the other hand, as I wrote above, now any oil that has been certified according to the API standard is suitable for use in the Alpha moped engine.
I chose the golden mean for myself: I pour semi-synthetics from imported manufacturers into the moped, because. the price of a liter of semi-synthetic oil is now not much different from the price of mineral oil.
But only now it is rare to find semi-synthetics 15W-40 on store shelves. With this designation, mainly mineral oils are sold. Therefore, I fill the engine with 10W-40 oil as the closest to the manufacturer's recommendations.
How often do you need to change the oil in a moped?
In the operating instructions, the first oil change (on a new moped) is after 500 kilometers (TO-1). The second replacement is at 1500 km (TO-2). The third replacement is at 3000 km. (TO-3). Then every 2000 km. But there is an indication that if the moped is operated under increased loads and in dusty conditions, you need to change the oil (do maintenance) more often.
Personally, I change the oil every 1500 km.
Today, scooter motor oil is produced by many companies, both foreign and Russian. On the one hand, this is not bad - there is plenty to choose from, given the technical characteristics of the “two-wheeled friend”, the driving style and financial capabilities of its owner, as well as the climatic features of the area. But on the other hand, which brand should you give preference to? For those who wondered: “What scooter oil to buy?” our review of the products of the main manufacturers will help.
Motul
Motul is a popular French company that has been producing lubricants since 1853. Motochemistry of this brand is chosen by many teams participating in sports racing F3, MotoGP Le and Mans Series. Of course, the prices for such quality are appropriate. If you don’t feel sorry for the money to maintain your equipment, choose Motul, just beware of fakes, because the more expensive the brand, the more active the attackers. Motul Scooter Power 4T 5W-40 can be recommended to owners of 4t scooters, who prefer to “undermine” and “tumble”, Motul Scooter Power 2T is available for two-stroke speed lovers. It is 100% synthetic, designed for sports and racing performance vehicles. For everyday use, the “semi-synthetics” Motul Scooter Expert 4T 10W-40 and Motul Scooter Expert 2T, respectively, will be optimal.
Liqui moly
Motor oil for a Liqui moly scooter, of course, is not a cheap pleasure, but thanks to the notorious German quality, exhaust smoke, as well as engine noise, it noticeably reduces, and its low ash content dramatically increases the mileage between cleaning the combustion chamber. The lubricant shown in the picture is dedicated to two-stroke engines, for the rest Liqui moly Scooter Motoroil Synth 4T 10W-40 - HC is ideal.
Ipone
A fancy French brand whose materials were actively used by such athletes as Richard Sainct, R?gis Laconi, Cyril Despr?s. Quality at a high level, it is consistent with a solid price. 100% synthetic oil iPone SCOOT 4T 10W40 will provide the engine with high wear resistance at the limit of 4t. And for two-stroke drivers, a “perfume” has been developed that allows you to gas with strawberries: City Oil 2, Scoot City, Scoot Run.
Castrol
Evo X-tra Scooter 4T 5W40 (1) "height="150" width="120"> Castrol is an English company that has been producing high-tech lubricants since 1899. The reputable brand took care of the long service life of 2-stroke engines and released the "semi-synthetics" Castrol Act>Evo Scooter 2T, in our opinion, is not inferior in quality to the products of previous manufacturers, but wins in price. The product with high engine protection Castrol Act>Evo X-tra Scooter 4T 5W40 for 4t scooters also showed itself well.
Mannol
The German brand with this name is not as promoted as the above, and in terms of product quality it is slightly inferior to them. He has a small assortment for scooters, but, in addition to the fairly good and affordable semi-synthetics Mannol 4-Takt Plus and 2-Takt Plus, there is also a special synthetic engine oil for a scooter with a 2t Mannol 2-takt Snowpower engine, saving equipment in harsh winter conditions.
Valvoline
Valvoline is a solid American company with a glorious history of almost a century and a half. Valvoline SynPower Scooter 4T is a decent 4t scooter engine oil that facilitates cold starts and protects the engine in the process. 100% synthetic, but more affordable than similar brands at the top of the list.
Ravenol
The German brand Ravenol has noticeably lost its prestigious position in the ranking of motor oils in recent years, however, the semi-synthetic product for 4t scooters Ravenol 4T Scooter is still listed among users today. Protects the engine under harsh driving conditions and sudden short-term loads.
ZIC
ZIC is a Korean oil manufacturer that has existed since 1962. Its products have gained worldwide popularity due to the balanced price-quality ratio. Scooter engine oil Zic 4T 10W-40 shows quite tolerable results, provided it is replaced in a timely manner.
Lukoil
For two-stroke engines, there is also a domestic, budget option: mineral oils with additives Lukoil MOTO 2T (MGD-14M). For everyday driving around the city and country roads, such an oil is quite suitable, but it should be remembered that it should be changed more often than synthetics and semi-synthetics (for 4t engines). A big plus of this product: the minimum risk of running into a fake.
What to choose is up to you, the main thing is to follow the recommendations of both the machine manufacturer and the oil manufacturers.
It would seem, what could be easier? I drained the old oil and filled it with new, but no ... There are people who manage to mess up here too.
I won’t go far for examples: I had a chance to repair several scooters in which the oil filter was simply clogged with debris. As a result, the oil could not flow through it to the rubbing parts and the engine wedged. To my fair question to the owner: why didn’t I clean the filter when I changed the oil ??? A typical answer followed, which honestly killed: “why clean it?” “What is the filter there?” (???).
I sometimes get the impression that many scooter owners compete among themselves for who among them will kill their device faster. And then they complain on every corner that the “Chinese” are shit a priori.
So, the most common mistake that is made when changing engine oil is when, out of ignorance or on purpose, the oil filter is not cleaned.
Look, the owner never cleaned the filter of this scooter, and at the same time he changed the oil regularly: every 2000 km. As a result, the filter became clogged and the engine seized.
The second most common mistake I have encountered is when the oil is drained not through the drain plug, but through the filter plug. By and large, this is not critical, but if you drain the oil through the plug, the oil does not completely leave the engine, and when you fill in fresh oil, it will mix with the old one, which will greatly worsen its performance.
With the change of oil in the gearbox, the situation is no better. Many owners do not even suspect that the scooter has a gearbox and the oil in it needs to be changed as often as in the engine. That is, every 2000 km of run.
Sometimes you open the gearbox of some old scooter, and instead of oil there is some kind of slurry. What can I say - goo. There, as at the factory, oil was poured, so no one has changed it there yet.
I recently dismantled the gearbox of an old Honda and instead of oil there turned out to be a slurry very similar to dung ... The bearings are naturally "taken away", it's good that I looked there in time, otherwise the rear wheel would roll along with the axle in front of the scooter, and the owner would fall into a ditch ...
Look at what kind of slurry is in this gearbox ... I won’t be surprised if it’s still native, factory oil ...
Actually, the oil change itself, both in the engine and in the gearbox, consists of two main stages: preparatory and, in fact, the replacement itself.
Preparation
In order for the used oil to glass from the engine without any residue, the engine should be warmed up before changing the oil. Or, what would be best, start changing the oil immediately after a trip of 5-10 km.
The second preparatory stage is that we need to prepare in advance a flat area on which the scooter should be installed in the most even position and prepare a suitable container for used oil.
The tools that you will use also play an important role. Do not be stingy - buy a new head with a collar. You will need only two of them: for 17 and 10. Those who neglect this moment pay dearly later, and from their own pocket.
Changing the engine oil in the engine
Waste oil drain
We put the scooter on the central stand, if it is crooked, we align it. On the left side in the direction of the scooter, at the very bottom of the engine - we are looking for a drain plug, we substitute a pre-prepared container under the plug and unscrew the drain plug with a 17 head.
While the oil is draining - go to the right side of the scooter - unscrew the control dipstick and the oil filter plug, which is located at the very bottom of the engine.
We put a good head on the cork at 17, turn it off and take it out with all the contents from the engine.
This is the oil filter. Immediately after unscrewing it, while the bottom line is - throw all this junk into clean gasoline, chat it there well, and then blow it out and dry it.
After the oil filter plug is removed from the engine. In order to drive the remaining oil out of the engine, pump the engine several times with a kickstarter.
Then we wait five minutes - we wipe the drain holes dry, for greater reliability we apply sealant to the plugs and wrap them in their places.
Filling the engine with new oil and checking its level
Depending on the design of the canister, pour oil into the neck either directly from the canister itself or through a funnel. The funnel must be clean!
Oil level control
The oil level is checked as follows: pour the first portion of oil into the engine, approximately 600-700 ml, wait a couple of minutes until the oil spreads evenly over the crankcase without twisting, insert the dipstick all the way into the filler neck, remove it and look at the level.
The oil level must be within the control area.
- If the level is lower, add a little oil, wait a couple of minutes and take a measurement.
- If the oil level is above the norm, we drain it or, better, we pump it out using a syringe with a tube from the neck.
The control area is marked with red arrows. In my case, the oil level is exactly in the middle of the control area and is indicated by a blue arrow. Ideally, the oil level should be in the region of the upper boundary of the control area. But this is ideal, but in practice - the average level is quite acceptable and does not affect the reliability and durability of the engine.
Changing the oil in the gearbox
At the very bottom of the engine on the left side in the direction of travel - we are looking for a drain and filler plug of the gearbox. The fill plug is on the side or top, and the drain plug is always on the bottom.
We substitute a container under the drain plug, unscrew both plugs.
We wait ten minutes until the old oil drains from the gearbox.
We wipe dry the drain hole and plug, apply sealant to the plug and wrap it in its place.
We take oil. I take a liter canister so more profitable and enough for about 10 replacements. If you change the oil infrequently, buy a special tube of branded oil for scooter gearboxes. There is more than enough of it for one replacement, and without any headaches, pump it into the filler hole using a special spout.
like this
For those who prefer to save money, one thing remains: pump oil into the gearbox in small portions using a conventional syringe. Otherwise, unfortunately, you cannot fill the gearbox with oil, since the filler hole is too small.
Checking the oil level in the gearbox
We pump it into the filler hole, it is also a control one - the oil is exactly until it starts to flow out of it. As soon as the oil starts to flow, stop filling, wait a couple of minutes until the excess drains and wrap the cork.
On some models of scooters, there is no control hole through which we can determine the required oil level and instead of it there is a filler located on top of the gearbox and a drain. In this case, the recommended oil level must be marked on the engine crankcase. Which simplifies the work: measure the required amount of oil and fill it through the filler hole into the gearbox.
Of all the possible modes of transport on our roads, today we can safely single out the scooter as the winner in the category "most economical", "most maneuverable", "most easily accessible" ... and there will be no end to these "very" nominations.
Indeed, what kind of transport boasts so many fans, of all ages, all over the world? Probably no one else. Realizing the need to shed light on a number of vital issues in the maintenance of scooters, let's start.
What kind of gasoline should be filled in?
This is the first problem that absolutely all scooter owners face. According to the passport, you need to fill it with an octane number above 90. In our area, you can most often find it - 92 or 95. In principle, the 92nd will be enough (it has the least additives that “catch up” the octane number to the required one). The exception will be those scooters in which any gasoline below the 95th is contraindicated, so it’s worth sorting it out once for your particular model. From incorrectly selected gasoline, a number of problems can appear: from contamination of the carburetor and fuel level sensor, and even up to the failure of the entire fuel system.
What oil for scooter?
2 stroke engine:
In a two-stroke engine, the oil is dissolved in the poured gasoline. The main task of which is: to give an oil film for rubbing parts and burn out - leaving behind a minimum amount of combustion products.
Don't overdo it with your choice. Among the relatively inexpensive oils, you can easily find fairly high-quality specimens that can be safely poured. 
4 stroke engine:
When choosing oil for a four-stroke engine, consider:
- scooter mileage
- The climate in which the engine will be used
- Engine speed
In the first case, if the engine resource has been exhausted and the time for a major overhaul is approaching, experts recommend a mineral base and thicker oils.
I would combine the second and third options, and draw the following parallel: if the motor constantly suffers from high speeds or temperatures, a thicker lubricating product should be poured, which will retain its properties when heated. Conversely, "low-viscosity" oils are poured into engines with a temperate climate and unsportsmanlike characteristics. The indisputable advantage of such a lubricant will be its high penetration ability (penetration into the metal at the molecular level). This property will give your scooter a longer life, and you will have a minimum of hassle with repairs.
All-weather oils include those that in the SAE classification are denoted by two digits through W.
Oil additives:
In fact, there are not so many varieties of additives used in the production of oils for 2 and 4-stroke engines. Some can be listed:
Corrosion protection- special attention to protection during downtime, and, of course, during operation.
Oxidation protection- we are dealing with the obtained property of the oil to level the effects on the lubricant of high-temperature and chemical. processes occurring inside the engine, preventing the oil from "aging" ahead of time.
Reduced dispersion- saves rings from sticking by reducing the concentration of resins and, as a result, no pollution of candles.
Overpressure and wear converter- include a detergent additive that will contain burnt particles in suspension (preventing them from settling on the walls throughout the entire period of oil operation), adds strength to the oil film, thereby reducing friction.
Conclusion:
Leaving from the above (incomplete) list of additives used in two and four-stroke scooter engines, we can conclude that it is very unreasonable to add additives in addition. There is only one reason - everything that the oil needed for good performance properties was included in the recipe by the manufacturer. 
Fans of 4-stroke scooters often use regular SAE 10W-40 automotive semi-synthetics. their formula is largely identical, the benefit is that there is no need to buy different oils for a car and separately for a two-wheeled pet.
