Rear hub nut VAZ 2110. What is a rear hub bearing, how does it work and how to replace it? Installing a new bearing

while tapered bearings were used in VW cars, they were the most frequently replaced parts, consumables. Even with constant backlash control, any hole could damage the clip or rollers and provoke premature failure. Therefore, it will be useful to master the technology of replacing a bearing, perhaps, for every owner of an elderly VW 🙂

The hub into which the outer races of the bearings are pressed (and there are two of them for each wheel) are the drums (or discs) themselves. Therefore, the first step is to remove the drums. But over time, they wear out, and the resulting shoulder can interfere, so you need to bring the pads together first. To do this, it is necessary to raise the wedge of the self-breeding mechanism. If we had x-ray vision, it would not be so difficult to find it with our eyes.

To the touch, this is done as follows: in the upper hole for the wheel bolt facing the front of the car, you need to insert a flat screwdriver, feel for the connection of the spring and the wedge, and leaning on the drum itself, pry and lift it. Approximately it looks like this:

Now the drum spins easier and can be removed without problems.

Remove the cap covering the bearing. If we are talking about replacement, then in the kits of normal manufacturers there is always a new one, and the old one can be knocked off with a screwdriver or a chisel. If you plan to adjust or repair the brakes, it is advisable to remove the cap carefully.

There is a pin under it

Unclench the antennae and pull it out

We remove the crown retainer, unscrew the nut with a 24 wrench

We remove the puck

And now you can remove the drum, evenly pulling it towards you

Usually it is removed with both bearings, then they can simply be removed with a screwdriver and thrown away

But if you miss the moment when the backlash appeared, the bearing can start spinning on the trunnion and stick to it

To remove, you need to destroy the separator, remove it, rollers and stuffing box

After removing the grease, we will also find the inner clip

With a thin chisel it can be moved from its place

in extreme cases, you have to cut with a grinder

Now we can return to the drum. It still has two outer clips pressed in. After removing the remaining grease, you can find three recesses in the casting, through which the reverse sides of the clips are visible.

It is through them that you need to knock out the clips with a punch, a screwdriver and even a chisel

It is advisable to thoroughly wash the insides before pressing in new clips.

We open the box with a new bearing. According to my personal statistics, the best bearings are made by SKF. But a very worthy and more budgetary alternative can be considered FAG

We put a new clip in the drum (do not confuse directions!)

For precise pressing, I personally ordered special mandrels from the turner

They accurately repeat the shape and size of the clip

But for a one-time job, an old clip sharpened on a grinder will do.

Pressing, of course, preferably with a press. In extreme cases, the vise will come off. Some even manage to use a hammer 🙂 The main thing is that the clip should go in without distortions, and all the way. There should be no gaps

We wipe the clips again, and begin the assembly. Apply grease to the inner bearing race

on the bearing itself

Put it in the drum

The end part is also filled with grease.

Then we remove the grease from the part where the stuffing box will be pressed in. If this is not done, it may fall out over time.

We put the gland and press it into place with our fingers

We turn the drum over and repeat the procedure (excluding the oil seal) with a small bearing

Before installing the drum in place, we conduct an audit of the state of the brake mechanisms.

The wedge of the mechanism must be fully raised

The pads must have the same clearance from the edges of the anther

Holding the outer bearing with your finger, put on the drum

We put on a thick washer, controlling that the nose that prevents it from rotating falls into the groove

We bait the nut, tighten it first with our fingers, and then with a 24 key, while simultaneously rotating the drum

tighten the nut until it remains possible to move the thrust washer with a flat screwdriver

I have been doing it my own way for many, many years, and so far this method has not failed:

I tighten the nut with a wrench, while rotating the drum, until it stops. And from this position I loosen the nut 1/4 turn

We put a crown lock on the nut so that the hole in the hub and the slots coincide

We insert the cotter pin and push the ends apart

We put on a cap (there is no particular point in stuffing grease into it). I ordered a special mandrel for this purpose, so as not to deform it

We put on the wheel, twist, then stagger in a vertical plane.

It should spin easily, should not stagger :-)

And remember that backlash control lies with the owner of the car, and it must be done regularly, the first 500 km, and then every time the car, for whatever reason, ends up with the rear wheels hung out.

Many experts agree that on the VAZ 2109, like other domestic cars, the rear wheel bearing (ZPS) is a weak point. This is not due to the low quality of the products. It's all about the condition of the roads.

Given the condition of the road surface, as well as the need to always have a car ready for travel, a failed bearing should be replaced in a timely manner. Otherwise, the consequences of operating a car with a worn bearing threaten expensive repairs and an accident.

When to replace

The rear wheel bearing should be changed no later than every 100 thousand kilometers. But the realities of our roads and the quality of products are such that in fact the resource of the element is noticeably less than the specified period.

Practice shows that it is required to change the ZPS every 50-60 thousand kilometers, and in some cases even more often. It is best to focus not on mileage, but on signs of wear.

Symptoms

The car itself will tell you that it's time to change the ZPS, giving the appropriate signs:

• There is noise, a strong hum or knock in the rear of the car when driving;
• There is play in the bearing.

Status check

If one of the signs appeared on your VAZ 2109, you must definitely raise the rear wheels in turn and make sure that the problem is really in the bearings. For this:

• Raise the wheels and spin each one by hand;
• Listen for extraneous sounds when spinning the wheel;
• If you hear a characteristic hum, this indicates wear on the wheel bearing;
• Check the knot for play. The wheels must be hung out;
• Grasp the top of the wheel firmly and pull away from you and towards you;
• If the bearing is in good condition, the wheel will not move, that is, play, will not;
• If there is a buildup, then you will have to replace the ZPS.

ZPS selection

When choosing a rear wheel bearing, you should focus on the required characteristics and manufacturers who today produce suitable ZPS for the VAZ 2109.

Let's start with the characteristics. The choice should be made in favor of bearings with the following parameters.

For the rear hub, a ball, angular contact, double-row sealed type bearing is used.

Now let's talk about manufacturers. There are several of them, each of which has its own characteristics.

Bearing manufacturer	Peculiarities
VBF from Volgograd plant	Motorists consider this bearing factory to be quite reliable and proven. An important plus is that the fakes of the Volgograd manufacturer on the market are quite rare.
Bearings of the Saratov plant - SPZ	A close option to the Volgograd plant, which is famous for its reliability and has an impressive popularity among owners of domestic cars. Few more fakes
	These are products of the same Saratov plant, only for budget consumers. Sufficiently cheap bearings are characterized by less durability. Otherwise, there are no serious complaints about the quality.
20 GPZ. Kursk plant	Now it is very rare to meet the products of this plant, since the enterprise produced bearings back in the days of the USSR and for some time after the termination of its existence. Today, production is not carried out, but occasionally the remnants of bearings can be found. The quality is excellent (USSR, after all), but the stoppage of production will not allow you to easily find. Maybe they don't exist anymore.

Replacement

Since the results of the test showed that the old rear wheel bearing has already worked its way out, it will need to be replaced.

Many people ignore the noise and hum of the ZPS until a certain time. But if you do not make timely repairs, this threatens serious problems that can result in the following consequences:

• Initially, hum and noise will cause discomfort due to their unpleasant sounds. Many motorists are accustomed to comfort, so they will do everything to get rid of noise;
• If you continue to ignore the problematic bearing, you will soon have to change not only it, but the entire rear strut. And this is a serious financial loss;
• Bearing wear leads to a malfunction of the running system. From here, the car can behave in the most unpredictable way, increasing the likelihood of an accident.

Do not joke with a problematic ZPS, but it is better to start repairing it immediately if you find signs of its malfunction.

1. After checking, lower the machine to the ground, loosen the hub nut and wheel bolts.
2. Remove the decorative cap from the hub nut, then unlock the nut, loosen the tightening and remove the fasteners with a socket head with a lever to increase the force. Please note that these nuts are tightened with a large moment, so you have to sweat.
3. Loosen the wheel bolts.
4. Raise with a jack the side from which you will begin the repair. In this case, the car must be in the first gear position at the checkpoint.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Remove the brake shoes and drums, which will allow you to completely unscrew the hub nut and move it to the side along with the thrust washer.
7. Now you have got rid of all the excess, so you can arm yourself with a special puller to press the hub off the axle.

1. You will need a vise to place the dismantled hub in. Without them, removing the bearing will be quite problematic. Don't forget to remove the retaining ring before doing this.
2. Using a mandrel, a puller, press out the old bearing.
3. The hub is extremely important to process, rinse, removing all dirt.
4. Only after the hub has been cleaned can a new bearing be pressed in that meets the required VAZ 2109 parameters.
5. Replace the retaining ring. It is also better to replace it, rather than use the old ring.
6. Press the hub into its rightful place using a mandrel of a suitable diameter. The force applied is necessarily in relation to the inner ring of the new bearing, and not to the outer one.
7. It remains for you to assemble the knot, acting in reverse order. Serious difficulties should not arise in this case.
8. The last step is the mandatory replacement of the old hub mounting nut. It is undesirable to use the old nut. After installing the fasteners, lock the nut.
9. Perform a similar operation with the second hub. Experts recommend changing the rear hub bearings in pairs so that their wear is the same and uniform. In addition, if one bearing fails, the second will soon follow. Why postpone the already mandatory events.

A competent approach to replacement, the correct choice of the rear hub bearing in accordance with the declared parameters are a guarantee of a successful repair of your VAZ 2109. Do not delay solving such a problem, otherwise it will cost you serious financial costs or, God forbid, an accident.

No vehicle component is subjected to such a load as the chassis. Hence the large number of faults. A good example of this is the rear wheel bearing. According to the plan and calculations of the designers, it must serve regularly for at least 100,000 km. run. But domestic roads and improper operation make their own adjustments. Very often the bearing fails without having served even half of the resource.

In this case, you can not pull with a replacement. It's not even that a bad bearing will cause an even more serious malfunction. In this case, we are talking about security. No need to think that such complex repairs can only be done in a car service. It is quite possible to replace the rear wheel hub bearing yourself.

Consider how to check the rear wheel hub bearing. Unlike many others, this fault can be localized with almost 100% accuracy. And by virtue of this, it is not only experienced, but also novice motorists, if you know the characteristic signs. The main ones are:

• Extraneous noise while driving. It is often mistakenly confused with the "howl" of the box, but in this case the sound does not disappear even when switching to neutral.
• An unpleasant sound is especially noticeable in the back seat, from the side of the faulty wheel;
• When cornering, a clear braking of the faulty side is felt, and in especially severe cases, clicks are heard;
• Wheel heating while driving.

All these are indirect symptoms, upon hearing which the motorist should be alert and conduct a more detailed check. To do this, using a jack, hang a supposedly faulty wheel. Now you need to unroll it well.

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A rumble is heard - bad, but not yet fatal. Grasping the wheel with your hands from above and below, you need to shake it vertically. If there is play - the bearing is in a landfill.

What is it coming from? Surprisingly, only a third of the bearings "die" from the natural wear of metal parts. The remaining two-thirds are due to the following reasons:

• Manufacturing defects;
• Severe operating conditions. For example, constant driving on country roads at high speed;
• Lack of timely service. As a rule, lack of lubrication and dust and dirt on the bearing;

In addition, there is another reason - incorrect installation during a previous repair. However, this can be easily avoided if, before self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing, study the sequence of work in advance and focus on some details.

Do-it-yourself rear wheel hub bearing replacement

Any repair of the running gear of the car cannot be called simple. Not because it requires special education and special skills. The difficulty, first of all, lies in the complexity of the repair. Removing some parts requires decent effort and a lot of patience.

We must be prepared for this in advance. You can’t drive a car with a half-disassembled rear hub into a service. If the determination is not lost - first of all, you need to stock up on a tool.

Tools and accessories

To change the rear wheel hub bearing with your own hands, you will need:

• Jack and suitable wooden support;
• The socket wrench, as a rule, is 30 and a suitable piece of pipe, as an amplifier for the crank;
• Key 12, for disc guides;
• balloon wrench;
• Round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Universal puller. You can do without it, but this requires some experience. Therefore, it is better to buy it, it is also suitable for the front hub bearing.
• Mount.
• And, of course, a new bearing. It does not need to be taken out of the package ahead of time to prevent dirt from entering.

How to change the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110: sequence of actions

First you need to break the wheel bolts, and raise the car with a jack.

Attention, in no case should work be carried out on a car installed on one jack, it is imperative to additionally use a wooden stand of suitable dimensions.

This is due to the great effort that will have to be applied in the process of work. A car on a jack will be very unstable. The further course of action is as follows:

• The bolts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed;
• Now you can remove the hub boot.
• The wheel guides are unscrewed. Sometimes this is not easy to do, they "sour" in aluminum. The main thing here is not to disrupt the edges, so there is no need to rush;
• Next, the brake drums are removed. It all depends on how long they haven't been filmed. Sometimes they are dismantled "by hand", and sometimes you have to knock with a hammer, through a tree, from the back. There is another way. The guides are screwed into special holes. It must be borne in mind that the pins cannot be used to remove the discs, this will lead to the destruction of the aluminum thread. You can only twist them to a slight stretch, and then try to knock the disk through the tree. Should help.
• The hub nut is unscrewed. You'll have to try - it is twisted very tightly. Therefore, the collar is reinforced with a piece of a suitable pipe. Care must be taken as the vehicle will wobble.
• The hub is removed. Here, of course, it is better to use a three-legged puller. However, not everyone has it, so you have to use the "proletarian" method. It consists in the following. A wheel is installed on the hub and bolted, but not completely, but so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the disk and the hub. Thus, a kind of reverse hammer is obtained. With a few sharp jerks of the wheel, the hub can usually be removed. And that's already half the battle.
• Using round nose pliers inserted into the corresponding holes, the retaining ring is removed.
• The old bearing is pressed out or simply knocked out with a universal puller;
• The axis of the hub is carefully examined. Sometimes the clip of the old bearing remains on it. It needs to be removed. The bearing is removed, you can proceed to install a new one. But first you can inspect the working brake cylinder. If it has leaks, you will have to change it so as not to remove the drum again later.
• The axle and hub are inspected for damage, cleaned of dust, dirt and rust, and lubricated with Litol type grease.
• The new bearing is pulled out of the package, its cage is also easily lubricated along the seat;
• Using a universal puller, the bearing is installed in place. In the absence of a tool, the bearing can be pressed in with a vise. In this case, the clip of the old one is used as a mandrel. It is not recommended to hammer the bearing with a hammer, this can lead to its destruction.
• Now you can install the retaining ring;
• Carefully, using a mandrel or a pipe of suitable diameter, with light blows, the hub is put in place;
• Fixed with a nut;
• The brake drum is put in place, the guides are twisted;
• The wheel is spinning. For the sake of interest, it is worth trying to shake and twist it. There will be no extraneous sounds and backlash.

How to change the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2110 video

Outcome

After removing the car from the stands and the jack, you can test it on the go. The enjoyment of silence and satisfaction from the work done will be provided. And most importantly, now there is confidence in the reliability and safety of your car.

The service life of wheel bearings should have a fairly high mileage (at least 100,000 km). But the condition of our roads can lead to a rather early replacement of the hub bearing on the VAZ 2109, 2110.

How to determine the need for replacement?

Strong noise, the rumble of the bearing of the rear hub VAZ 2109, 2110, the “howl” from behind, which intensifies when cornering, clearly indicates the need to check the condition of the rear hubs. The verification methods are quite simple:

• be sure to lock the wheel, diagonally opposite from the side of jacking, it is necessary to hang out each rear wheel in turn. (Why each? The fact is that very often there are errors with determining the side of the hum, and even more often there is a need to replace both bearings).
• with the wheel raised, you need to try to spin it as much as possible. If at the same time you hear extraneous sounds similar to a hum, you can not check further - a replacement is necessary.
• if in doubt, you can still check the lateral play of the bearing by taking the edges of the wheel and shaking it towards you - away from you. If at the same time you feel the movement of the wheel on the axle, the bearing needs to be replaced.

In car dealerships, you can be offered both a separate bearing and a complete hub. We see no point in purchasing a complete assembly (except in the cases described below), where replacing the bearing is not at all a difficult matter.

A phased method for replacing the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2109, 2110

1. stop the car in front;
2. tear off the wheel bolts;
3. we tear off the central nut (7) of the hub, having previously removed the cap (9);
4. we jack up the side and expose the “tragus”;
5. remove the wheel
6. fill the landing site of the WD-40 brake drum or other special liquids (you can use diesel fuel or brake fluid);
7. unscrew the guide bolts (preferably lightly tap with a hammer);
8. we are trying to carefully remove the brake drum (if it doesn’t work, we screw the appropriate bolts into a special thread on the brake drum, make an interference fit and try not to knock it out with a hammer. In most cases, the result will be positive. There are special drum pullers on sale, this is just in case if all else fails);
9. we completely unscrew the central nut (there is, of course, the possibility to unscrew it immediately, and even remove the hub along with the wheel and drum, but then there is a high probability of damage to the brake pads);
10. we tighten the hub (if one of the inner races of the bearing remains on the axis, it is necessary to use a puller or just a sharpened chisel to try to move it);

• we inspect the axle for traces of turning the bearing (if there is, we change it, it is advisable to replace the hub assembly);
• inspect the brake cylinder for leakage, pads for wear;
• remove the retaining ring from the hub using round nose pliers and/or screwdrivers.

• be sure to clean the edge from rust, moisten it with WD-40 or whatever is at hand.

There are three options for pressing the bearing:

1. Special press (not everyone has it).
2. Puller (it is not expensive, you can buy it, it will come in handy for the future).
3. Using a heavy hammer (at least 2 kg) or a sledgehammer. At first glance, the method may seem a little aggressive, but it is practiced by the vast majority of craftsmen and service stations, and we will consider it.

• the hub must be well installed on a hard surface, and with a few sharp blows through the mandrel to move the bearing from its place. When this happens, you need to install the hub, for example, on a yew (so that there is an emphasis for the hub and free space for the bearing to exit)

• a few more blows and the bearing will come out (do not rush to throw it away);
• we inspect the landing plane for the bearing, clean the rust with sandpaper, lubricate with ordinary engine oil (you can work out);
• the new bearing must be twisted with any suitable bolt through the washers (the washers must be selected according to the inner races, the bearing is double-row and it is likely to be disassembled during installation);
• install the hub on a hard surface.

- we put a twisted bearing on top, lightly lubricate its mounting plane with oil (a new good bearing inside usually does not need to be lubricated, but if you have doubts and a little experience in assembling and disassembling, you can put Litol grease -24)

- with an ordinary 500-gram hammer, very lightly, we are trying to align the bearing in the plane;

- we take a suitable mandrel (for example, a mount), and try to press in the bearing with gentle blows.

The basic rule is no strong blows, if it doesn’t go, then it’s crooked

- after the bearing has passed halfway, you can already apply a little force, since it can no longer skew it.

When we reach the cut of the hub, it is necessary to use the old clip as a mandrel (no strong blows, the metal is high-carbon, with a strong blow it can burst and cause a very serious injury)

- we finish it all the way and put the stopper (if there are problems with installing the stopper, then most likely you did not finish it to the end) the stopper should easily spring in the groove;

Assembly

- that's it, we begin the process of assembling the rear hub bearing on the VAZ 2109, 2110. To do this, we put the hub on the axle (by removing the bolt with which we tightened the clips);

- we twist and tighten the central nut (we must install a new one), not forgetting to put the thrust washer;

- dress and fasten the brake drum and wheel;

- check the rotation (there should be no extraneous noise);

- if everything is fine, we lower the car from the jack;

- tighten the wheel and the central nut (the tightening torque of the hub is about 20 kg / m, this is a rather strong tightening, if there is no torque wrench, you need to tighten the nut with a lever of at least a meter with a force twice that of the wheel tightening force);

- tighten the hub nut, tighten the wheels.

Sometimes, before the upcoming trip, passengers have to hear such expressions “the main thing is that the wheels do not fly off”, but in fact no one puts a serious meaning into these words, but in vain.

This may well happen! Poor fasteners and worn parts do not have the best effect on ensuring safe movement, so it is very important to identify and fix the problem in time, even if, at first glance, it seems insignificant. So, for example, many drivers do not treat wheel bearing diagnostics with due responsibility, despite the fact that this particular part is an important element of the rotating mechanism of an automobile wheel. About the characteristic signs of a broken hub and how to replace it, we will tell you in today's article.

1. How can I find out about problems in the hub?

The hub is an important part of any vehicle. It has a hole created to allow it to fit on an axle or shaft, and the main purpose of this part is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the wheel, due to which the latter starts to rotate and the car starts to move. Along with the hub, an equally important element of the chassis assembly is the hub bearing, presented in the form of a double-row ball or single-row roller bearing. Together they are aimed at maintaining safety measures in the process of driving a car, so it is clear that the failure of any of their parts cannot guarantee this.

Today, the rear wheel hubs of any car are subjected to significant vertical and axial loads, and on vehicles with rear or four-wheel drive, a lot of torque is added to this.

Unconsciously, the owner of the car himself in the process of replacing wheels can contribute to the rapid wear of the hub bearing. When tightening the fastening bolts, you can not calculate the force and break them, but this does not mean at all that you should not fix the rim well. In this case, it is important to find a "golden mean" and then you do not have to think about the possible consequences. To tighten the bolts, it is best to use an electric wrench, as it better "feels" the limit of permissible force.

Affects the rapid wear of the bearing assembly (rear wheel) and moisture with dust that enters it from the road. Penetrating into the hub, the dust works as an abrasive substance, gradually squeezing out the lubricant through the sealing parts, as a result of which the hub bearing is destroyed by heat.

It is not difficult to notice the need to replace the wheel bearing, this will be reported to you by a characteristic knock coming from the rear of the body, which intensifies when driving on rough roads or when hitting bumps and pits. If the car is moving on a flat surface, there is a hum and, although it is not noticeable, the brake drum is very hot. Also, when turning the steering wheel, uncharacteristic braking is quite often noticeable - another sure sign of a bearing malfunction.

Usually, to determine the cause of a bearing failure, only a visual inspection is not enough, the condition of neighboring parts, the amount (quality) of lubricant and the conditions of use of the vehicle should also be taken into account.

Among the main factors affecting the failure of the rear hub bearing, there are:

Reducing the resource of parts due to long-term operation in extreme conditions (the average service life of this type of bearing is calculated at about 1,000,000 km, which in reality often does not correspond to this indicator);

Unreliability of lubricants: their excess (lack) or poor quality (70% of cases);

Contamination, when moisture or solid particles of various debris get inside the part (18% of cases);

Incorrect wheel mounting: incorrect adjustment, use of excessive force, overtightening of the hub, overheating, inaccurate clearance, etc. To avoid costly breakdowns and to take precautions, manufacturers recommend checking wheel bearings every time you change brake pads, regardless of the age of the vehicle.

2. Check if the rear wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced

Most often, there are only two reasons for the failure of the rear wheel hub bearing: the poor quality of the road surface (in some places it is generally difficult to call it expensive) and the poor quality of the materials of the part itself. In these cases, when signaling signs of the need to replace the rear hub appear, it is worth it. This process is simple, so you can do it yourself, at home. But before starting work, you should know for sure whether the whole thing is a faulty bearing, or perhaps there is another reason.

To do this, you will have to use a jack and raise the rear axle. After that, the wheel, in which the rumble is heard, is rotated and swayed to check the play. If it is detected, and when performing rotational movements, a dull tapping or crunching is heard, the bearing should be changed immediately, since falling apart during the movement of the car, it can damage the rest of the hub system.

One of the criteria for success when replacing a rear wheel hub bearing is the quality of the new part. All those who like to buy "cheaper" should remember the saying "The miser pays twice." Demanding from a cheap and low-quality bearing for many years of good service is definitely not worth it, and it is quite possible that you will soon have to make a similar purchase again (God forbid, that only this part).

3. Step by step instructions for replacing the rear hub bearing

At the preliminary stage of the replacement, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools. It includes: a jack, a set of screwdrivers, a wheel wrench, a hub nut puller, lithol, a pry bar and a chisel (the latter may not be useful, but it is better to have it on hand).

The immediate replacement phase includes the following points:

Having put the car in first gear, use a jack (lift) to raise its rear part and unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the desired wheel from the hub (in the case of using a jack, so that the car does not roll in front, special supports called “boots” should be placed under the front wheels »);

Having unscrewed the guide pins, they remove the brake drum (although they usually just knock it down), followed by the brake pads;

The hub fastening nut is unscrewed with a special puller (before that, the plug is removed from it), and the hub itself is knocked off the trunnion. It must be removed together with the bearing ring, and if this did not work out, then this part is dismantled with a chisel and a mount during gouging and pulling out. This process is quite lengthy, so be patient;

pressing out the old bearing. To do this, use special tongs to remove the retaining ring, and then knock down the metal boot. If, in the course of the “spiritual” work of the hammer and chisel, the edges of the hub were badly beaten off, then in addition to a new bearing, it is worth purchasing a new hub, so the further proper operation of the “crippled” is in doubt;

A new (or old) hub is lubricated with lithol and a replaced bearing is pressed into it using a special puller. Notice! It is very undesirable to hammer it with a hammer, in order to avoid damage.

The anther and retaining ring are installed in their original place;

The hub is put back on the trunnion, while tapping a little on the inner ring of the bearing, after which the trunnion is tightened, and its sides are jammed as best as possible;

Ultimately, the brake pads, drum, and finally the wheel itself are installed in their places. There are also a number of recommendations for obtaining the optimal result of the work:

To avoid damage to the rear hub bearing seat, use only professional pullers specially designed for this, taking into account the desired cage diameter.

Various types of presses are used to improve the process of installing a new bearing and seal. It is highly discouraged to use the impact method of pressing new parts (for example, with a hammer). This can damage the stuffing box seal and it will begin to leak lubricant, and will also create microcracks in the bearing cage, due to which it will heat up more and, accordingly, will fail faster.

The rear hub assembly should be assembled in the reverse order, after which, by bleeding, air is removed from the brake system and the parking brake is adjusted.

On some models, the rear hub bearing can only be replaced with the hub.

It is better to immediately change the wheel bearings of both rear wheels, since they are subject to the same load and wear out in the same way.