What are stabilizer bars for? Review from a service station mechanic. How to change the rear stabilizer bar on your car? Making stabilizer bars

29.06.2020

Miscellaneous

Improving the dynamic characteristics of the car and improving the safety and driving comfort have led to the appearance of an anti-roll bar in the suspension design. It can be installed on both the front and rear axles. Its movable fixation is provided by stabilizer struts.

Description of the stabilizer bar

On most cars, the stabilizer struts are a rod whose dimensions are from 4 to 20 cm. On its two sides there are special hinges with a wide variety of designs. There are also hingeless designs. The photo below shows what a classic stabilizer bar looks like.

The design of the stabilizer bar is not solid. The hinge is welded to the stem. This technical solution is due to safety. The location of the weld is called the "neck".

It is slightly thinner than the rest and has less mechanical strength. When overloads occur in the "neck" a fracture occurs. If it were not for this constructive solution, then it was impossible to predict the place of breakage and the rack could break through the bottom.

Stabilizer link location

Racks are front and rear, depending on which axle the stabilizer is present on. They movably attach it to the suspension. In order to see the racks, you need to access the bottom of the car or remove the wheel.

Purpose of the rack

Racks are needed to ensure limited mobility of the stabilizer and steering knuckle, hub, arm or other suspension elements connected to each other, depending on the design. This improves machine stability when cornering, avoiding obstacles or braking.

The stabilizer bar, as well as polyurethane or rubber bushings, acts as a damper. It reduces the force transmitted to the body.

The influence of racks on the car

The most noticeable effect of the front and rear stabilizer struts on the car is when the owner decides to do the suspension tuning with his own hands. Change the comfort, handling and safety of the car. The various options that car owners often choose are discussed in the table below.

Table - The influence of the stabilizer struts on the car

Modernization	Impact on the car
Installation of the front stabilizer and standard struts on a car, in the basic configuration of which these elements are not available, but are on more expensive versions	Handling improves at high speeds. Banks are slightly less. There is no significant effect.
Installing the rear stabilizer and knuckles	Reducing the drift of the rear of the car on high-speed turns. Reduction of rolls by 20-30%. Occasionally there is a hanging of the rear wheels. Corner entries are smoother and can be done at higher speeds.
Installing only a rear stabilizer with struts without a front one or its significant strengthening	Strong roll of the front of the car in fast corners. Throwing a car out of the road.
Installation of more powerful racks, which have a significant difference from the standard ones	Increased cornering speed and a noticeable improvement in handling. Installed reinforced struts without upgrading the remaining suspension elements are sources of excessive loads on other chassis parts, which is why they quickly fail. For example, a stabilizer bushing may require replacement after 10-15 thousand km.
Installation of cheap / weak stabilizer struts	It mainly affects only the resource and reliability of the knuckles. Such a repair kit rarely goes for a long time. In most cases, reducing the mechanical strength of the struts does not affect the comfort, handling and dynamics of the car in any way.

Most car owners believe that reinforced struts negatively affect the car. It is impossible to achieve sports car handling characteristics with knuckle upgrades, and the comfort of overcoming bumps is reduced as the chassis becomes stiffer. Especially dangerous are homemade knuckles, which, according to the assurances of the owners, have no wear. Such perpetual posts cease to perform a "safety" function due to increased mechanical strength and do not meet safety requirements. Any excessive load causes significant damage to the suspension, which could have been prevented by the breakage of a standard knuckle.

Principle of operation

The struts, together with the stabilizer, minimize roll by raising or lowering the body, pressing or hanging the wheel. Thanks to them, the right and left side of the independent suspension axles work taking into account the influence on each other. The diagram below illustrates how the struts and stabilizer work.

Vehicle operation without stabilizer struts

The stabilizer link does not have much effect on the ability to continue driving the vehicle. Reviews of car owners who have experience driving cars without knuckles say the following:

entry into a turn should be performed at a lower speed, as there is a high risk of losing stability;
rolls become much larger;
the machine behaves unstably when overcoming irregularities;
there is oversteer.

A survey of car owners on whether driving without stabilizer struts is acceptable showed the result, which is shown in the diagram below.

Many car owners note that the chassis of the car becomes softer after dismantling the racks. Therefore, they advise removing them immediately after buying a car. There is indeed an improvement in knuckle-free comfort as the anti-roll bar stops working. However, because of this, a greater torsional moment is applied to the body. Because of this, cracks or other damage may appear in weak places.

In urban operation, the absence of stabilizer struts in the car is less noticeable. Driving at speeds of 20-60 km / h on a flat road is no different from driving a car with knuckles. Despite this, experienced car owners warn that by waving the wheel while driving around a hole, there is a risk of tumbling or losing control.

If the car does not have struts, then the load that occurs due to the displacement of the wheel is superimposed on other suspension elements. This significantly reduces their resource. Therefore, in the absence of knuckles, you should adhere to the most accurate driving style, since abnormal running gear can lead to critical breakdowns at the first increase in load.

The braking of the car, in which the front stabilizer struts are removed, is accompanied by swaying. This creates a risk of loss of control. Particularly noticeable is the deterioration in control over the car during intensive braking from high speed.

Another problem that arises from the lack of stabilizer struts is the difficulty of replacing a wheel with a jack. On some cars without knuckles, the car has to be raised more than half a meter.

There are cars in which, depending on the configuration, there is or is no anti-roll bar. Such machines are the least sensitive to the removal of racks. The increase in roll and other disadvantages of dismantling the knuckles is noticeable only at high speeds or in tight turns. Therefore, such cars can be safely operated without racks.

Or stabilizer struts (stabilizer links).

In this article, we will talk in more detail about what stabilizer struts are, what they are for and what function they perform. We will also look at what signs indicate the need to replace the stabilizer link and how the stabilizer link is checked, as well as how to change the stabilizer links, which stabilizer links are better to choose, etc.

Read in this article

Stabilizer links: what is a stabilizer bar in a car suspension device

The stabilizer link is the part that attaches the anti-roll bar to the vehicle's suspension. In turn, the anti-roll bar of the car is necessary in order to reduce horizontal body roll in corners and during other deviations in the horizontal plane.

So, the hinged stabilizer strut, stabilizer bar or stabilizer link (even in everyday life they are called stub struts, stabilizer bones) allows you to implement a movable connection of an elastic stabilizer with a hub or steering knuckle due to hinges.

Of course, in the device of different suspensions, the stabilizer struts will also differ somewhat in terms of design (front stabilizer struts, rear stabilizer struts). However, regardless of the type, the rack is always based on a rod (rod) in the form of a rod, which can be 5, 10, 15 cm long, etc. The ends of the rod often have hinges to make a movable connection.

As a rule, there can be 2 ball joints on the rack. There are also versions where 1 hinge and a stabilizer bushing are used, or a pair of bushings, as well as a hinge on one side, while the thread is made on the other. Often, hinges are welded to the stem at an angle close to a right angle.

In the place where the tip is attached to the metal rod, there is a refinement called the neck of the stabilizer link. This neck is insurance against too high loads. Simply put, the case will break exactly at the point of thinning. If the rack breaks in some other place, the element in this case can pierce the bottom of the car and cause damage to the car, etc.

As a rule, to increase the safety of the stub racks, they are not initially made as strong and thick as possible. Moreover, not so long ago, plastic racks began to be produced. They are light and durable, and even safer, because in case of an accident or heavy load they are destroyed without harm to the body, passengers and driver, etc.

At the same time, high loads and a deliberate reduction in the strength of the element in order to increase safety are considered the main reasons why these parts often fail, and also require regular diagnostics.

Today, the most common type is the ball joint stabilizer link. The design includes a metal ball pin, a plastic seat filled with a special lubricant. The upper part of the pin is pressed in with a plastic or metal cap.

Connections of this type are protected from above with anthers, which are filled with grease to increase the service life and smooth operation of the mechanism. The grease does not lose its properties both at high and at low temperatures.

If we consider the principle of operation of the strut, first, the front stabilizer strut or the rear stabilizer struts do not have a rigid connection with the stabilizer itself. In turn, this allows you to get a connection with limited mobility.

The main problem is that during cornering the body heels. It is noteworthy that the body is affected by some forces, while the forces acting on the suspension will be directed in the opposite direction. If such efforts are not compensated, the risks of breakage of the mating parts (stabilizer and eyelet) increase significantly.

It turns out that the stabilizer strut is a damping element that is able to extinguish multidirectional forces. Naturally, from such loads, the swivel of the rack is quickly destroyed. When driving on bad roads, the effort increases noticeably. As a result, the stabilizer struts may require replacement after 10-15 thousand km.

We also add that on some cars you can find adjustable stabilizer struts, where the stabilizer can be completely turned off and connected using electronics. Although this solution is not widely used, however, some models are equipped with such systems.

Signs of malfunction of the stabilizer strut, check and replacement

So, having considered what the front suspension stabilizer link or rear suspension stabilizer bar is, let's move on to the main breakdowns. As a rule, if there are racks with a hinge on the car, often the following will indicate a problem:

An obvious knock when driving on rough roads. Knocking will be the side where the rack is worn. If the racks have bushings, the diagnosis is difficult, since the knock is not loud and is not always audible.
When driving, the car “throws”, the car does not keep the track, constant steering is required. In corners, strong rolls are noticeable, a strong buildup of the body appears, especially during acceleration and braking.

As a rule, the destruction of the connection leads to the fact that the anther of the stabilizer strut becomes unusable. The result is the accumulation of dust and moisture, which significantly reduce the life of the part. It also happens when the clip of the ball pin wears out during operation, the ball pin first knocks and dangles, after which it breaks.

Please note that it is possible to repair the stabilizer struts, but it is not economically feasible. It is easier to immediately purchase a new part, you can buy both the original and a high-quality analogue.

Now let's move on to how to check the stabilizer links. The easiest way is to swing the car in both directions in a direction that will be transverse to the movement. If the buildup is given easily, this indicates that the stabilizer is not working and there may well be severe wear on the stabilizer struts. Also, a characteristic knock may indicate a problem.

Another test method that allows you to diagnose problems with the front stabilizer bar is the method when you first need to turn the steering wheels and gain access to the racks. Next, you need to pull the traction and assess their condition for possible backlash, which are felt tactilely when the car body is swinging.

In the event that when turning the wheels, access to the stabilizer struts does not open or the rear stabilizer strut needs to be checked, the car must be driven into a pit or onto a lift. Further, the diagnostic process is the same as the methods discussed above (one person swings the body transversely, the second checks the stub racks).

It is also important to carefully inspect the anthers. If the boot of the stabilizer strut is torn, streaks of lubricant and other defects are visible, then the stabilizer struts are most likely out of order. Even if there are no knocks yet, it is better to change such racks immediately.

By the way, another test method is diagnostics with the removal of the wheels, when the car is jacked up, the wheel is removed, after which a stop is placed under the ball to relieve the load from the stabilizer itself. This allows you to check the stabilizer link mountings. To check, unscrew the nut or top mount and shake the stand to see if the sound is coming from the mount.

If there is sound, it needs to be replaced. If, on the machine, the racks are mounted on bushings, then it is enough to see if the rubber is damaged or deformed. If so, then metal will rattle against metal and this is the cause of the rattle.

If it is found that the strut has become unusable and you need to replace the stabilizer strut, you should know how to change the stabilizer struts with your own hands. Of course, the replacement of the stabilizer struts on different cars will be different, since the suspension design may be different. However, in reality, the procedure is not complicated.

We note right away that the stub racks need to be changed in pairs on the same axis on the left and right, even if only one of them is in good condition. To replace, it is enough to buy stabilizer struts, prepare a jack, keys, hexagons, and a mount. By the way, when choosing racks, it is important to take into account that the front stabilizer bars and the building are different (the front stabilizer bar is longer, while the rear one is shorter).

To replace, hang out the axle where the work is being done. To do this, a stand is placed under the ball. If this is not done, even with the successful removal of the old rack, a new part cannot be delivered without hanging. Ignoring this rule leads to the fact that recently installed parts quickly fail again.

It is also very important when replacing the racks to prevent damage to the anthers. If the boot is damaged, it must be replaced. Finally, we note that replacing the stabilizer struts does not affect.

Which stabilizer links are better to choose

Given that the stabilizer link does not last long, many car enthusiasts seek to increase the life of the part by looking for the best and most reliable options. In practice, it is important to understand that a large number of factors affect the life of the rack: the quality of the part, the model and make of the car, the features of operation and the condition of the roads in the region, the general condition of the chassis, etc.

For example, the original on European roads may well go 50-60 thousand km, while in the CIS on bad roads the same part will last no more than 25-30 thousand km. At the same time, the expensive “original” is far from always going to last longer than high-quality analogues.

For this reason, Lemforder, CTR, SASIC or GMB stabilizer struts can be distinguished. Moreover, for many models, the mentioned companies supply parts to the conveyor. This means that buying analogues under your own brand allows you not to lose quality, but also not to overpay for the original.

The main rule is that the parts must be branded (there are many fakes on the market), and also exactly fit for a particular car model. Even the slightest change in length of 1-2 centimeters is not allowed when trying to install racks that at first glance may seem completely suitable. The fact is that such replacements will inevitably affect the operation of the entire suspension and the behavior of the car, and negatively.

Summing up

Given the above information, it becomes clear that even with relative simplicity in terms of design, the front stabilizer, rear stabilizer and stabilizer links are the most important elements in the arrangement of the chassis of the car. At the same time, in practice, the front stabilizer struts fail most often due to the poor condition of roads in the CIS.

One way or another, these elements greatly affect not only comfort, but also stability and handling. This means that regular diagnostics of the running gear and a separate verification of the stabilizer struts are necessary at each MOT. As a conclusion, we note that it is extremely important to maintain the suspension in good condition so that control over the car is complete. Only this approach allows you to get maximum safety when driving.

Stabilizer bar design

The stabilizer bar is a rod, usually from 5 to 20 centimeters long. Swivel joints are attached to both ends of the rod by welding at a right or slightly different angle from a right angle. Swivel joints consist of a cage and a hinged pin set into the cage. At the ends of the swivel joints there is a thread that allows you to attach the stabilizer struts to other elements using nuts. The pivot joints of the racks are protected by hermetic anthers, inside of which there is a medium-thickness lubricant, designed to maintain properties when the air temperature drops.

In the suspension design of some cars, for example, due to the use of a large-section stabilizer, struts are used with one swivel and simple fastening using a composite silent block at the end with which the strut is attached to the stabilizer. The stabilizer has an eye through which the threaded end of the strut is threaded. This design is used for reasons of reliability in a car designed to travel long distances.

Racks are asymmetrical (that is, the hinges at the ends are reinforced at different angles), left or right. There are suspension designs with symmetrical uprights that can be placed on either side and either end up or down.

The function that the anti-roll bar performs

The anti-roll bar link connects the stabilizer bar to the steering knuckle (or hub, in the case of the rear suspension), providing a non-rigid connection that implies limited mobility of the combined elements. This is necessary so that when driving, for example, in a turn, in the event of multidirectional forces acting on the body and suspension (the body tends to tilt, and the suspension must press the wheel to the asphalt), these forces do not break the conjugated elements - the hub lugs and stabilizer. The stabilizer bar takes over, in fact, the function of the damper, extinguishing the greatest efforts.

From this it is clear that during operation the rack experiences a significant load, which leads to the gradual destruction of the hinged joints.

Typical damage to the stabilizer bar

Due to the constant multidirectional load, aggravated by the poor quality of the roads, the racks fail. As a rule, they have to be changed every 1-20 thousand kilometers: even if the anthers are preserved, the swivel joints after this conditional threshold no longer inspire confidence. Signs of destruction of the stabilizer bar struts:

When driving and, especially, the passage of speed bumps, a knock is heard.
The car begins to "float" - it spontaneously takes it to the side, especially in ruts, so you have to taxi, "catch the road."
In corners, there is increased roll.
The shock absorber struts are intact, but the body sways excessively in corners and/or when braking.

It is quite possible to diagnose the weakening of the hinges on your own - just take a mount and, turning the front wheel to the side, shake the rack left and right at the attachment point. If there is an opportunity to crawl, you can shake the rack with your hand, so it will be even clearer. If you do not have to make any effort, the hinge is close to uselessness. It is possible that you can even feel the play of the hinges with your hand. In addition, if you bought a car recently, you should pay attention to the condition of the anthers - surface cracks and traces of oil will help determine the advanced age of the stabilizer struts. If there is a person ready to help with the diagnosis, you can try to catch where the sound comes from, which is heard when moving over obstacles and holes. One person climbs into the inspection hole and puts his finger on the hinge. The second - swings the car back and forth. The knock can not only be heard, but also felt with a finger. Despite the fact that the car retains the ability to move, even if the hinge is still disconnected, it is not recommended to bring it to this point, since driving with a detached rack is an unpleasant and nervous exercise due to a serious decrease in controllability. Considering the fact that there are on the market, anyone can afford to buy replacement racks - there are many options for sale in any car market.

When making maneuvers with a sharp start or emergency braking, the car body begins to roll - change its position relative to the roadway. When entering turns, lateral rolls occur when the body receives a lateral tilt, and when starting and braking, a longitudinal roll occurs when the rear or front lifts up.

All these rolls can significantly affect handling. The multidirectional forces that act on the body lead to a deterioration in the controllability of the car, a decrease in the grip properties of the wheels with the road surface. And entering a turn at high speed provides a significant roll, which negatively affects the driver's psyche. A person begins to lose confidence that he fully controls the behavior of the car.

What is a stabilizer bar for?

To combat these rolls, an anti-roll bar is included in the suspension design. It looks like a bent U-shaped rod made of springy steel. Its ends are connected to the suspension elements, while in the central part it is screwed to the car body.

Its functioning boils down to the fact that when rolls occur, the stabilizer twists, which causes an anti-roll force, since the springy steel tends to return to its original position when twisting. That is, this suspension element cannot eliminate the occurrence of rolls, it only reduces it.

The stabilizer is applicable only on suspensions of an independent type. Therefore, on most cars, only one stabilizer is used - in the front suspension. This design, for example, is used on all cars of the VAZ family, starting from the VAZ-2101 model. Not so long ago, they began to install a stabilizer in the rear suspension on cars that use an independent look. The rear stabilizer is used on such foreign cars - Ford Focus 2 and higher, Mitsubishi Lancer 9, Nissan Primera, etc.

Stabilizer bar, its purpose

5 - stabilizer
6 - stabilizer bushings
3 - stabilizer struts

Now about mounting the stabilizer. It is attached to the body or subframe with metal brackets. To eliminate the appearance of knocks at the junction, rubber bushings are used, which are put on the rod at the attachment point.

On many vehicles, the ends of the anti-roll bar are connected directly to the suspension components, often to the lower control arm. For example, on the VAZ-2106, there is a special protrusion on the lower arm, to which the stabilizer is attached with a bracket through a rubber bushing. This method of fastening is very simple and does not require additional elements. But such a mount provides a slight twisting of the stabilizer in the normal position of the body. Because of this low preload, the rod has more twist, meaning it resists roll less.

To increase the preload, that is, to make the stabilizer more rigid, additional elements have been added to the suspension design - stabilizer struts (they are also traction or links). On domestic cars, they began to be used starting with the VAZ-2108 model.

This rack performs two tasks at the same time - it provides a non-rigid movable fastening of the ends of the stabilizer to the suspension elements and ensures the preload of the rod. That is, in the assembled state, the stabilizer is already slightly twisted, which increases its rigidity, as a result, it fights roll more effectively.

Design features of the front pillars

The front struts are available in different types, but they are structurally similar. They are a metal rod with a length of 5 to 25 cm with fasteners at the ends. On the same "Eight" it is made in the form of a small rod 5 cm long, at the end of which there are lugs with rubber bushings installed in them. In one eyelet - the upper one, the end of the stabilizer enters. The second eye - the bottom one - is used to fasten the rack to the suspension arm.

But on the Ford Focus, the rack has a considerable length, and ball joints are installed at its ends, and they are multidirectional. On the one hand, the hinge pin is turned 180 degrees. relative to the set element from the other end.

But not necessarily all racks on foreign cars are like that. Racks with hinges at the ends may differ not only in length, but also in the position of the hinges. They may not be multidirectional, but have a parallel position, or they can be installed at some angle relative to each other.

Mounting to the suspension of the rack may also be different. It is not always connected to the levers, there are cars in which it is connected to the steering knuckle or wheel hub. In the same Ford Focus, the stabilizer bar is attached to the suspension strut, for which it has a special landing pad.

Rear racks

On those cars where there is an independent rear suspension, there are also racks, and of different shapes. For example, on the Ford Focus, it is a regular bolt with a nut on which rubber bushings are put on. This bolt is installed in the rear lower control arm. The stabilizer is fastened by means of an eye made at its end. To eliminate the appearance of knocks and the transmission of vibration between these elements, damper bushings are needed.

Some cars use L-shaped rear pillars (Mazda 3). In general, the design of the rack and its shape directly depend on the layout of the suspension itself and the position of the stabilizer in it. It doesn't matter if it's front or rear suspension.

It is noteworthy that on some cars non-interchangeable racks are used, that is, for example, the right element cannot be installed on the left side. But there are also universal ones, and such a rack can be installed on any side.

That is, the stabilizer struts have a very different shape, overall parameters, attachment points, but they all perform the same tasks.

Something else useful for you:

Stabilizer malfunctions, their symptoms, status check

Video: Knocking in the front suspension is the most common cause

But the stabilizer struts are additional elements in the suspension, and not of a simple design. Therefore, they are an additional place where malfunctions can occur.

If you look at the VAZ-2108 element, then rubber bushings are used in the design. During operation, rubber is exposed to various negative influences, which leads to its “aging” (decrease in vibration properties, shrinkage, cracks).

On the same racks where ball joints are used, they are the weak point. Over time, a development appears between the ball pin and the hinge body, due to which a gap is formed between them.

All of these malfunctions have clear signs:

The appearance of knocks when overcoming bumps in the road;
Increased roll of the car when cornering;
The car "floats" on the road (spontaneous withdrawal of the car to the sides).

It is not difficult to check the condition of the stabilizer struts, and it does not matter what design it is. To do this, you only need the presence of a mount and a viewing hole. If you check on the VAZ-2108, then it is enough to swing the stabilizer near the rack with the mount. Its significant amplitude of oscillations, knocks, indicate severe wear and the need for replacement.

As for the test for Focus 2, it is necessary to swing the rack itself. Ease of movement, knocks in the hinges will be a signal of their strong wear. But on the back of this car, you need to swing the stabilizer itself.

Replacing racks on different cars

Video: Replacing the anti-roll bar

One of the positive qualities of stabilizer struts, in addition to their main tasks, is the ease of replacement, and they are not expensive. Note that these elements change in pairs, on both sides at once.

Replacing this element with a VAZ-2108 is very simple, having only a basic set of tools - a set of keys and a jack. The whole operation is done like this:

Jack up the front wheel. In this case, the suspension will go down, which will remove the preload of the stabilizer;
We unscrew the two bolts securing the lever to the ball joint. It's easier that way, and you don't need a puller to remove the support. At the same time, the lever will go down, completely removing the preload;
We unscrew the nut securing the stabilizer strut, then remove the strut from the lever bolt, and then from the end of the stabilizer (the strut cannot be attached to it);
We put a new element and collect everything back;
We are replacing it on the other side.

It is easy to change these elements to Ford Focus 2. The same tools are used, but you will additionally need a set of hexagons. The replacement is done like this:

we hang out and remove the wheel, which will provide access to the support;
we unscrew the nuts of its fastening - first from the suspension strut, and then - from the stabilizer;
we create a jack force on the suspension (raise it) to remove the worn element;
put a new support, wind and tighten the nuts;
make a replacement on the other side;

The last to consider is the replacement of the rear L-shaped support, which is used on the Mazda 3:

We put the car in the pit;
With the keys, we unscrew the two nuts for fastening the support: one - at the place where the stabilizer is attached, the second - on top of the lower arm;
We remove the worn element and install a new one in its place. To do this, you have to slightly press the stabilizer up with your hand, and after;

Replacing the stabilizer links, wherever they are installed and whatever shape they have, is not difficult. And it’s better to spend a little time assessing the condition of these elements and replacing them than to experience discomfort when cornering due to a strong roll of the car and knocks from the suspension.

The stabilizer bar, or rather the stabilizer bar, are important parts that make up the suspension of a car. They have quite a lot of names and titles - stabilizer bars, bones, stabilizer rods and even ... links! In catalogs and technical manuals, the first name is most often used - it is considered the most correct and professional. But those who call the stabilizer link LINKA clearly demonstrate a certain "undereducation" and ignorance. A stance cannot be called a link, in extreme cases, you can say "link". This will be true because it comes from the English. LINK - link, connection, connection.

What are stabilizer bars for?

The function of the stabilizer links is to provide a connection between the anti-roll bar and suspension elements (for example, control arms and shock absorbers). The presence of such a connection increases the stability of the car to side rolls and improves the responsiveness of the suspension when driving on rough roads. By design, the stabilizer struts can be different - this is a pin with ball tips along the edges, and an element with two lugs and silent blocks in them. There are several more versions, but the functions performed remain the same.

Malfunctions of the stabilizer struts and their consequences

During operation, the stabilizer struts experience huge dynamic loads. Due to its connection with the suspension, most of the impact energy when driving over bumps and bumps is perceived by the racks. The driving style of the car owner, of course, also affects the technical condition and service life, but the quality of the road surface is perhaps the main harmful factor.

The stabilizer struts of modern cars can theoretically "walk" about 100 thousand kilometers, but in our reality they rarely reach 50 thousand kilometers. Signs of a malfunction of the stabilizer struts are quite obvious and tangible:

unpleasant and intrusive tapping in the front suspension when driving on rough roads or cornering;
excessive buildup of the car when cornering;
pulling the car to the side when driving on a flat road;

Not all of the listed signs clearly indicate problems with the racks, but each of the signs should be a reason to contact a car service - as this is not normal car behavior. In principle, you can try to pre-check the condition of the stabilizer struts yourself. To do this, in the parking lot, turn the steering wheel all the way to each side and, holding the stabilizer bar, sway from side to side. Perceptible beating and play will indicate the need for replacement!

Only one thing calms in this situation - the cost of racks and services for their replacement is quite low. Buying original parts or high-quality analogues will not hit your budget much.