The wheel bearing, the brake drum and the wheel disk, there is a translational movement, braking, steering of the car wheels, ensuring the safety of the driver and passengers. Replacing the hub of the VAZ 2109 is quite possible with your own hands, if you have all the necessary materials and tools at your disposal.
The time for replacing the hub, according to the technical data for the VAZ 2109, is 27 minutes with the wheel removed. To change the rear hub, this instruction with a photo will help.
How to determine the failure of the suspension and hub
A sign of replacing a hub on a VAZ 2109 may be a loud noise or knocking while driving. But this is an unreliable source, since there can be several reasons for the occurrence of a knock: the handbrake strips, brake pads, silent blocks of the rear pillars can also knock. It's hard to guess.
To be more precise, you need to take a jack, lift, twist, sway and check. The wheel bearing usually does not knock, but it can give a buzz and vibration to the body. A knock, and a rather strong one, will only be emitted by a bearing requiring replacement.
Check bearing condition it’s not difficult - we raise the necessary side with a jack, twist and shake the wheel, if there is a hum - the bearing needs to be replaced. If there is play, check the tightness of the hub nut and wheel bolts.
It is not allowed to eliminate the play in the wheel bearings by overtightening the nuts. The tightening torque of the front and rear hub nuts should be: rear wheel hub bearing nut 186.3-225.6 (19-23) N * m (kgf * m), front wheel hub bearing nut 225.6-247.2 ( 23-25.2) N*m (kgf*m).
When replacing a wheel bearing, be sure to inspect the hub, if a new bearing is installed on it very easily, then such a hub must be replaced with a new one otherwise it will hang out. And, despite the replacement of the bearing, provoke vibration and knocking.
In the hubs of the front and rear wheels, double-row ball bearings with seals are used, which do not require relubrication and adjustment during operation.
When the wheel hubs are pressed out, the bearings are destroyed. Therefore, it is necessary to press out the hubs only in cases of increased bearing noise or a significant increase in the clearance in them: more than 0.015 mm in the front and more than 0.030 in the rear.
When choosing a wheel bearing, you should know its dimensions:
- rear hub bearing size VAZ 2109 - 60 mm (outer diameter), 30 mm (inner diameter), 37 mm (width), catalog number 6256706E1C17;
- the size of the front hub bearing VAZ 2109 is 64 mm (outer diameter), 34 mm (inner diameter), 37 mm (width), catalog number 2108310302001.
The price of a VAZ 2109 bearing is 600 rubles, relevant for Moscow and the region (spring 2017).
To replace the hub VAZ 2109 need this tool:
- jack and wheel wrench;
- socket wrench 30 mm and a long pipe on it;
- pliers for removing retaining rings;
- simple pliers or a 12 spanner wrench (for unscrewing the guide pins of the rear brake drum);
- wooden block and hammer;
- chisel and mount;
- universal puller for pressing out the hub or reverse hammer;
- new hub for VAZ 2109 with article 21083104014 or 21103104014.
First, with a chisel or screwdriver, it is necessary to unfasten the shoulder of the hub bearing nut.
Then we take the head "at 30" ...
... and loosen the hub bearing nut.
Loosen the wheel bolts.
We jack up the car. We tighten the hand brake, turn on the first gear and substitute the shoes under the wheels. Unscrew the 4 wheel bolts and remove it.
Using the “12” key, unscrew the two guides.
If the guide does not unscrew, use a hammer to “shake” it by lightly tapping it.
Remove the brake drum.
We install a reverse hammer on the hub ...
... and remove the hub.
We take a new hub assembly.
Replacing the rear hub bearing on the VAZ-2114 is quite difficult, but do it yourself. So, a motorist needs to know the design features of the car, as well as have some experience in repairing the suspension, but even a novice motorist will be able to understand the process by reading this material. The article will tell about all the features of the operations, and also show step by step how the procedure is done.
Video about a quick and easy replacement of the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ-2114
The video will tell you how to replace the front hub bearing, and also tell you about some of the nuances and subtleties of the process.
Rear suspension and running gear
Bearing manufactured by AvtoVAZ
Before proceeding directly to the replacement process, it is worth considering the rear suspension device in order to understand the location of the part, and also determine what needs to be removed in order to change the rear wheel bearing.
Cross section of the rear undercarriage
1. Rear wheel hub; 2. Rear suspension arm; 3. Bracket of fastenings of the suspension arm; 4. Rubber bushing of the hinge of the lever; 5. Spacer sleeve of the hinge of the lever; 6. Bolt of fastening of the rear suspension arm; 7. Body bracket; 8. Support washer for fastening the shock absorber rod; 9. Upper suspension spring support; 10. Spacer sleeve; 11. Suspension spring seal; 12. Rear suspension spring; 13. Pillows of fastening of a shock-absorber rod; 14. Buffer compression stroke; 15. Shock absorber rod; 16. Protective casing of the shock absorber; 17. Lower support cup of the suspension spring; 18. Shock absorber; 19. Lever connector; 20. Hub axle: 21. Cap; 22. Wheel hub nut; 23. O-ring; 24. Bearing washer; 25. Hub bearing; 26. Brake shield; 27. Retaining ring; 28. Dirt deflector; 29. Flange suspension arm; 30. Shock absorber bushing; 31. Lever bracket with an eyelet for attaching a shock absorber; 32. Rubber-metal hinge suspension arm;
Bearing replacement process
Now that we have dealt with the design features, we can proceed to the direct replacement process. First you need to collect the tools. What you need: a jack, a set of open-end and box wrenches, a balloon wrench, rags, a 30 socket wrench, round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings, VD-40 (if necessary), as well as a new bearing.
When everything is assembled, you can consider step-by-step instructions for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ-2114 car:
- We install the car on a flat surface.
- We install the first gear at the checkpoint and put counter-recoils (shoes) under the front wheels.
We put the first
- We dismantle the protective cap of the hub.
- Using a 30 head and an extension cord, we tear off the wheel bearing tightening nut.
- We tear off the bolts of the wheel disk.
- We jack up the car.
- We dismantle the wheel.
View of the removed wheel from the car
- We unscrew the fasteners of the rear drum.
- Remove the front cover of the brake drum.
Remove the top cover of the brake drum
- Dismantle the hub nut.
Unscrew the hub nut
- We install the puller for the hubs and begin dismantling the part.
Rear hub puller classic
- When the hub with the bearing is removed, you can proceed directly to the dismantling of the internal element.
- Using pliers, remove the circlips.
Remove the hub
- There are two ways to remove the bearing from the hub. The first one is to knock out the product from the seat. The second, less barbaric, is to use a bearing press. As practice shows, all motorists use the first, since the press is not stored in every garage.
We press out the bearing
- Now that the old product has been dismantled, you can proceed to install the new part.
- Before pressing, it is necessary to lubricate the inner surface of the hub with oil. This is necessary so that the spare part fits better into the seat.
- Once the bearing is in place, the circlips can be installed.
- Now, with light blows of the hammer, we install the hub in its place.
- The rest of the assembly process is carried out in reverse order.
Part selection
Not original Kroner rear hub bearing
The choice of a spare part is always not an easy task, because there are many factors that influence it. It is worth noting that the product must be of high quality and check the availability of certificates, original packaging, as well as holograms. In addition to the main original product, there are a number of analogues that are recommended for installation. Consider all possible options for purchasing a spare part.
Original
2108-3104020 And 2108-3104020-02 - original catalog numbers of the rear hub bearing VAZ-2114. The spare part under this article is produced at the AvtoVAZ plant. Perfect for seating. The average cost is 2000 rubles.
Analogues
Rear hub bearing
In addition to the original, there are a number of substitutes recommended for installation. As practice shows, most motorists choose them, since the workmanship and service life are much higher.
So, consider all the options for buying a wheel bearing:
| Manufacturer's name | Catalog number | Cost, in rubles |
|---|---|---|
| Weber | BR 2108-4020 | 500 |
| Master-sport | 2108-3104020-ST-PCS-MS | 500 |
| Finwhale | HB321 | 750 |
| Coram | CR001 | 750 |
| Hola | NB722 | 750 |
| meyle | 214 633 0001 | 750 |
| SCT | SCP-1307 | 750 |
| Cx | CX 081 | 750 |
| Kroner | K151208 | 850 |
| Optimal | 802 658 | 1000 |
| Pilenga | PW-P 1307 | 1000 |
| mapco | 26081 | 1100 |
| Flennor | FR891547 | 1200 |
| Herzog | H10 1206 | 1200 |
| ABS | 200068 | 1300 |
| Patron | PBK1307 | 1300 |
| Moog | LA-WB-11604 | 1400 |
| trialli | CS 256 | 1500 |
| GKN-Spidan | 26727 | 1500 |
| Torque | DAC 30600037 | 1500 |
| EGT | 554312EGTk | 1500 |
| SNR | R172.04 | 1500 |
conclusions
As can be seen from the article, replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ-2114 car is not so difficult as it seems at first glance, but not all motorists are able to cope with this task, so they often turn to a car service. It is worth noting that special attention should be paid to the choice of product, because the service life of the hub itself depends on the quality of the spare part.
The wheel bearing is one of the most important components of the running gear of a car. Sooner or later, every car owner faces the question of the need to replace this element due to its failure or the end of its service life. You should figure out how to diagnose a malfunction of the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ-2110 and replace it correctly.
The manufacturer recommends changing these parts every 100 thousand kilometers traveled by the car, but only in rare cases do they fully consume their resource. Much more often they come into a faulty state about 1.5-2 times faster. In many ways, the wear rate depends on the road conditions in which the car is operated, as well as on the driving style of its owner. Naturally, a lot depends on the quality of the bearing itself.
Symptoms
The wheel bearing has a large margin of safety, but since the loads constantly experienced by it during movement are very large, sooner or later it wears out to such an extent that it loses its performance. Tightening with the replacement of a faulty wheel bearing should not be done, as this threatens that it will fall apart while driving. This will inevitably lead to instant blocking of the wheel, which, when driving at a sufficiently high speed, very often becomes the cause of a serious accident.
Even if you are lucky not to get into an accident, operating the machine with a non-working hub bearing will gradually lead to the failure of the entire rack, and replacing it is a much more complicated and expensive process.
The malfunctioning condition of the wheel bearing can be judged by the appearance of extraneous sounds during movement - knocks or hums from the side where the faulty part is located, which after a while, if no measures are taken, turn into vibration, giving both to the steering wheel and to the body part . This sign is already fraught with a serious threat - if it comes to vibration, in the near future we can expect the collapse of the "killed" bearing with all the problems associated with it.
Diagnostic procedure
Self-checking the wheel bearing is carried out in the following order. It should, in turn, jacking up the left and right sides of the vehicle, spin the wheels.
Having found a wheel that makes a hum when rotating, it should be shaken in different directions. As a rule, backlash is quickly detected. In some cases this is caused by a loose hub nut. To exclude this possibility, it should be tightened with a torque wrench and locked. If the play and extraneous noise have not disappeared, the wheel bearing should be replaced.
Since the VAZ-2110 has been out of production for quite some time, it cannot be under warranty. This car is not equipped with too complex electronics, unlike many foreign cars. Therefore, having the right tool and some skills, you can replace the wheel bearing on the "top ten" yourself.
Selecting a new part
It is not difficult to buy a new wheel bearing now, but since the choice of any parts is very rich, it can be difficult to decide on the manufacturer. It can be advised to give preference to an element produced in Russia. The quality of bearings made in China is inferior to domestic ones, and you should refrain from buying them.
Replacement procedure
It should be noted that the hub nut is tightened very tightly, and it is difficult to move it. To facilitate this task, you can use a metal pipe as a lever. A chisel and pry bar may also come in handy - it's best to keep them nearby. It is very good if an experienced motorist helps to independently replace this element for the first time.
This procedure is performed in the following order. First of all, the car should be put in a garage equipped with a viewing hole. If this is not possible, then you need to find a flat area for repair work. Then turn on the first gear with the gearshift lever, and put wheel chocks under the front wheels (ordinary bricks will do). Having done this, using the “balloon” wrench, you should slightly loosen the wheel bolts and raise the side on which the wheel bearing will be changed with a jack.
Then the fixing bolts are unscrewed to the end, and the wheel is removed from the axle. The guide pins are unscrewed and the brake drum is removed.
If you can’t do it right away, you should take a hammer and, applying a small plank to the drum, knock it around the circumference.
If tapping does not work, you can try to wrap the pins in their place - sometimes the drum moves away after that. In the event that all methods are ineffective, the part must be dismantled with a puller, however, there is a serious risk of damage to it. If this happens, the brake drum will also need to be replaced with a new one.
The hub nut is unscrewed using a socket wrench and (if necessary) a metal pipe.
The hub nut is removed from the trunnion using a puller
You can try to remove the hub without a puller. To do this, you need to put the removed wheel back in place, and then pull it sharply (but you don’t need to be too zealous, otherwise the car will fall off the jack)
In case of luck, the bearing is removed together with the inner ring. If it remains in place, then in order to dismantle it, you need to use a small puller.
If the ring is stuck, then it must be moved with a chisel and a pry bar, and then use a tie rod.
The retaining ring is removed using special tongs or pliers, after which the anther is knocked off (it can not be removed if the bearing is dismantled by knocking out).
Then the bearing is pressed out (or simply knocked out).
The old lubricant should be removed by laying in its place a new one. Then a new bearing is pressed in (according to the rules, this should be done using a puller, but if it is not available, the outer race of the element to be replaced is also suitable).
The rear wheel hub bearing is designed to ensure its free rotation on the trunnion (hub axle), as well as the uniform distribution of shock loads that occur during the movement of the machine. VAZ-2114 cars are usually equipped with rear wheel bearings model 256706, which have a closed double-row ball angular contact design. They are characterized by a high rotational speed, but they are not designed for high loads. Some craftsmen, in order to increase the carrying capacity of their cars, install roller bearings (model 537906). They are, in a sense, stronger, although they have a relatively low rotation speed. Outwardly, these two types of bearings are practically the same, just as they do not differ in price and characteristics, although ball bearings, for some reason, have gained great popularity.
How to identify a bad wheel bearing
The original bearings of the VAZ-214 rear hubs "run" for a long time, and can withstand up to 70-100 thousand kilometers. And even in the event of a malfunction of one or two of them, they immediately continue to work. This does not mean at all that you can continue to ride on obviously faulty bearings, but if you find problems with them, you will always have a chance to reach a service station or your own garage.
Signs of a bad rear wheel bearing include:
- hum, howl, rustle in the area of the corresponding wheel while driving;
- crunching when passing small irregularities;
- hub heating;
- wheel play (detected by loosening a jacked wheel).
Spare part selection
To replace the rear hub bearing, you will need not only the bearing itself, but also the hub nut. At least that's what the manufacturer of the machine requires. When going to an auto shop or market for a new wheel bearing, it doesn't hurt to be aware of which parts are right for your car and which manufacturers you can trust.
The table below shows verified brands with catalog numbers for the bearings for the VAZ-2114 rear hub produced by them.
| LADA | 21083104020 |
| LEMFOERDER | 2006801 |
| SKF | VKBA 559 |
| ZKL | 2108-3104020 |
| TRISCAN | 853070201 |
| A.B.S. | 200068 |
| SPIDAN | 26727 |
| SNR | R17204 |
| Mastersport | 2108-3104020 |
| MEYLE | 2146330001 |
| SCT GERMANY | SCP-1307 |
| SBS | 1401762312 |
| AUTOKIT | 1,28 |
| OPTIMAL | 802658 |
| FLENNOR | FR891547 |
| NK | 762312 |
| MOOG | LA-WB-11604 |
| MGA | KR3106 |
| IPD | 309110 |
| LONGHO | 8751615 |
| FIAT | 4178737 |
| marketoem | 2108-3104020 |
| LSA | 21083104020 |
| FEBEST | DAC30600037 |
| FINWHALE | HB321 |
| FIRST LINE | FBK468 |
| Kemp | 77644281 |
| KAWE | FR891547 |
| CORTECO | 19017731 |
| BREDA LORETT | CR 2552 |
| BORG&BECK | BWK468 |
| Complex | CX 081 |
| CORAM | CR001 |
| Euroex | 2108-3104020 |
What will be required from the tools and means
To replace the rear wheel bearing yourself, you will need:
- balloon key;
- jack;
- head on "30" with the longest handle;
- stops for the front wheels;
- emphasis for securing the jack (strong stump, bricks, etc.);
- hammer;
- round nose pliers;
- beard or small slotted screwdriver;
- special puller for the hub (if any);
- a small mount, a chisel, a pair of wooden blocks, a vise (if there is no puller);
- gas burner (a gas stove burner is also suitable);
- wrenches on "10", "12", "13";
- grease;
- dry rag;
- assistant (optional).
Work order
1. Put the car on a horizontally level ground, turn on the first gear.
2.Lock it with the parking brake and front wheel chocks.
3. If caps are installed on the wheel disks, remove them.
4.Using a screwdriver, remove the appropriate wheel hub nut cap.
5. There is a self-locking hub nut under the cap. To “unlock” the nut, use a hammer and a beard (screwdriver) to align the two dents on its side.
6. Put the 30 socket on the hub nut and try to unscrew it. If this does not work the first time, treat the accessible part of the trunnion thread with WD-40 or similar. If it is possible to involve an assistant, ask him to sit in the passenger compartment and press the brake pedal to completely immobilize the car. To increase the force of impact on the head, lengthen its handle as much as possible. To do this, you can use a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter.
7. Having torn off the nut, do not unscrew it completely.
8. Using a balloon wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the desired wheel.
9. Raise the machine body with a jack on the appropriate side. Unscrew the wheel bolts completely, dismantle the wheel.
10.Using a 10 wrench (maybe 12 as well), unscrew the drum guide pins.
11.Disengage the parking brake. If possible, release the handbrake cable. This will make it easier to remove the drum.
12. Try to remove the drum by holding it with both hands, and, loosening, pull it towards you. If it doesn't work out, take a block of wood and tap the drum around the circumference with it. The place where the inner rim of the drum is on the hub, treat with WD-40. Remove the drum.
13.Unscrew the hub nut completely. Remove the washer on it.
14. If there is a puller, fix it as shown in the photo and remove the hub.
15. If you don’t have a puller in your arsenal, use a small pry bar. Rest its end against the brake shield, and pry off the protruding part of the hub with the working part. You can also take the wheel and, turning it to yourself with the back side, screw it to the hub. Now grab it with both hands and, swinging, pull it towards you with sharp movements. If this option does not work either, find two long bolts and screw them into the hub holes. For this purpose, the bolts that secure the cylinder head of VAZ 2108, 09, 14, 15 engines are perfect.
16. Having removed the hub from the axle, pay attention to whether the bearing has been removed completely, or whether the inner race has remained on the trunnion. If it remains, gently knock it down with a small chisel, hitting its back.
17. Take round nose pliers and use them to remove the bearing circlip.
18. Fix the hub in a vise or between two bars and carefully knock out the bearing using a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter, another old bearing, or the same head on "30".
19. Having knocked out the bearing, clean the seat in the hub with a dry cloth, apply grease to its side surfaces.
20.Heat the hub with a gas burner. This will make it easier to install the new bearing.
21. While the hub is hot, place it on a piece of wood, place the new bearing over the seat, place another piece of wood on top of it. Hit the block with a hammer until the bearing is seated. It is desirable that the blow falls on the inner race of the bearing (it is much thicker and stronger than the outer one).
22.Install the bearing circlip.
23. Put the hub on the axle, and using a block of wood as a spacer and a hammer, drive it onto the trunnion.
24. Replace the washer, screw on a new nut.
25. Assemble the wheel in reverse order.
26. Tighten the hub nut fully on the wheel already installed and on the ground. If there is a torque wrench, tighten to 186.3-225.6 Nm. Don't forget to crimp the nuts.
For more clarity, watch the thematic video:
The rear hub bearing is a very important element of the rear wheel rotation mechanism. The main task of the bearing is to ensure that it smoothly ensures the rotation of the wheel. In this article, we will look at how to replace the rear hub bearing with our own hands, so as not to go to a service station, where they will take normal money for work.
When an unpleasant knock appears in the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear wheels, mainly on bumps or small pits, and on a flat road a characteristic hum is a message to the motorist that the rear hub bearing is faulty and needs to be replaced. I do not recommend delaying the repair, as this breakdown can pull the rest of the components and assemblies of the car.
Video. Do-it-yourself rear wheel bearing adjustment
Note that in the previous article we considered its work and do-it-yourself replacement. Due to improper idle adjustment, the car has problems with increased fuel consumption, so I recommend paying attention to this article.
How to determine if the rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced?
The main cause of rear wheel bearing failures is our most beloved domestic roads, which are simply in a terrible state. Road bumps and pits simply knock out the bearing, it quickly goes into disrepair. Another reason, quite popular in recent years, is the poor quality material from which the bearing is made. Self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing on a car is a fairly simple repair that can be done in a garage.
Video. Do-it-yourself installation of rear wheel hub bearings
How to determine if the problem is in the rear hub bearing? Everything is very simple, you need to raise with a jack the side where the knock or rumble is pronounced, take the wheel with your hands and swing it. Thus, we will check the wheel play and if it is found, an immediate replacement is required. A bad bearing can damage the rest of the system in the hub.
