Many owners of Premasey and not only are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it in the initial stage, preventing the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a transplant of a donor organ in the form of a repair lining of the wing will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and looks something like this:

True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can immediately go to the end, where you will learn how to protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disc and clean off the swollen paint, we carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will rise later:

You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if successive layers of primer and paint are visible:

The skin for rooting the process can first be taken coarser - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk is coarser than 220 with soil, so do not climb far. The rest of the surface is matted with sandpaper 600. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that you need to dry the professional well. with a hairdryer, especially corrosion cavities, you can heat up to 60-80g., The paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttying is that they smear with a thick layer in the hope of later cutting off the excess with sandpaper. It will be correct to apply successively 3-4 layers, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should turn out something like this:

If through holes are nevertheless found out, all is not lost. Small holes are covered with putty with fiberglass, large holes - with fiberglass with the same putty. Putty on top with ordinary putty. If the metal is well dried and then cover these places on the inside of the wing with anticorrosive, so that moisture does not get in, then it will walk for many years.
We sand the putty. Since we don’t use bourgeois grinders and planers today, we take a not very clumsy wooden block, wrap it with 120 sandpaper and rub the putty, washing off the waste with a sponge and water. For curved surfaces, instead of a wooden one, we take a rubber block. You can first take the skin to take it rougher, the same 80-ku, but very carefully, changing it then to 120, which we then change to the 240th. The meaning of this whole dance with abrasiveness is that the bumps from puttying are removed with a rough sandpaper (80-120), and the risks from it are 240. Here lies the mistake of many craftsmen, or maybe their conscious action: quickly make the form a rough abrasive and then fill the resulting risk with a thick layer of soil. The result of this is the same - after 1-2 months, subsidence of the soil and the appearance of an angry client at the door. The putty is hygroscopic, so we dry it well with a hairdryer (not higher than 50-60g!), wipe it with a degreaser, cover the car with a film, paste over with newspapers and primer in two layers:

On top of the ground with a thin layer, apply a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a can. We rub the dried soil with sandpaper 600-800 with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water with sandpaper 1000 and then with scotchbright. The result is a smooth matte surface:

Paste, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about colors. I do not advise you to consider spray cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture well. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist will match the color 100%. As it is considered in narrow circles, hitting the color by 70-80% depends on the colorist, the rest - on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, the paint is tinted. A good painter will never paint parts end-to-end, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part you have to paint two, or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire fender, make the transition to the door and bumper:

As a result, there will be no difference in tone even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and in the evening under a lamp, as if the parts are from different cars?

We protect against corrosion.

Arch corrosion begins with damage to the edge by small pebbles flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, this place must be protected. We buy rubber bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for the VAZ-08. Trimming off the excess:

We well coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, we get this beauty:

What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow you to reduce repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on diligence and skill. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Subject to technology, it provides quite sufficient quality:

Here is such a repair, nothing particularly complicated, go for it!