The main enemy of the car body is metal corrosion. From this article you will learn what materials are used in the anti-corrosion treatment of a car, how to do it yourself and when to do it.
Why should you do it?
To keep the car resistant to rust, it is necessary to periodically do anti-corrosion treatment. Factory anti-noise mastics covering the bottom and wheel arches only protect the metal from mechanical stress. In addition, the composition is applied before painting, having previously covered numerous holes with technological stickers. When assembling the car, they are removed, simultaneously exposing sections of the bottom. In this case, after purchasing the machine, it is useful to check the condition of the coating.The frequency and volume of treatment depend on the operating conditions of the car, the completeness of the previous anti-corrosion protection, what preparations were used. In any case, it is recommended to conduct an audit every 2-3 years for a preventive examination and elimination of minor damage.
For new cars, anti-corrosion treatment is not required in the first three to four years. There is no need to "spill" the thresholds of a new car. An additional anticorrosive agent imposed by a dealer or made voluntarily is nothing more than reinsurance. As well as annual preventive maintenance. Treatment of hidden cavities should be carried out no more than once every three years.
What materials are needed?
To protect against corrosion (not counting primers, varnishes and enamels), the following are used: anti-gravel coatings, preservatives for hidden cavities, compounds for the bottom, materials for the inner surfaces of the wings and wheel arches. Their purpose is to prevent premature corrosion on the metal parts of the body.For the bottom of the car
They form a strong, elastic and sufficiently thick protective film on the bottom of the machine. These materials are applied to a clean or primed metal surface. The composition of these materials necessarily includes inhibitors (retarders) of corrosion. In garage conditions, they are applied to metal with a simple brush. Among domestic materials, the most accessible composition is bituminous mastic filled with crumb rubber.Another function of mastic is to improve the acoustic properties of the body as an alternative to soundproofing the car. To this end, crumb rubber is added to it, which makes the "armor" thicker and noise is reduced.
For wheel arches
They practically have the same properties as the materials for the bottom, with some exceptions. The fact is that the surface of the wheel arches is more susceptible to abrasive wear. Streams of wet mud, snow, ice, sand and stones, falling off the rotating wheels, constantly bombard the surfaces of the wheel arches. If they are not properly protected, corrosion will quickly take over.If you put plastic shields (“fender fenders”) in the wheel arches, then the problem is practically solved. There is a so-called liquid locker - durable elastic material. A thick layer of this material applied to the surface of the wheel arches will reliably protect them from abrasive wear. In some cases, applying a "liquid locker" may be preferable to installing plastic fender liner.
Wheel arches can be treated with underbody compound if applied in two coats. If you do it with your own hands, then the material can be applied with a brush.
For hidden cavities
The car has many hidden cavities. These are thresholds, racks, spars, floor amplifiers, trunk lid amplifiers. Access to them is possible only through special technological openings.Cavity preservatives are liquid, low-viscosity materials (similar to engine oil in consistency) that contain corrosion inhibitors. They form a semi-drying film on the walls of hidden cavities. They have a high penetrating ability - they are guaranteed to get into all the cracks and joints. Another important property is they are able to displace water from the surface of the metal.
The most famous auto cavity preservative is Movil. It has been produced for the fourth decade and has not lost its relevance. This non-environmentally friendly compound still shows the best protection. You can buy in any packaging, including aerosol.
It is not recommended to buy Waxoil brand preparations, because it contains only 13% of dry residue, everything else is a solvent. By the way, the absence of odor indicates a high degree of purification of solvents, and not good anti-corrosion properties.
Another composition of Rust Stop, made on the basis of mineral oil, has a high hygroscopicity (the property does not let water through). Therefore, the treatment of hidden cavities with this composition (or used engine oil with the same properties) must be repeated at least once every two years. Otherwise, instead of protection, the effect will be the opposite: excess moisture will contribute to corrosion.
How to do it yourself - the main steps
Washing. First you need to clean the treated areas from dirt. This must be done carefully, because. anti-corrosion materials will not hold tightly and will "fly off" after a while. For example, if you are going to process the bottom of the car, then you need to wash it from dirt with soapy water. Ideally, with a Karcher-type preparation or a minisink.Drying. After washing, it is necessary to dry the areas to be treated; not a single compound will hold on the "wet". You can speed up this process with a hair dryer. If you do it “in good conscience”, then you need to treat all places with white spirit or an ordinary solvent. Remember, the better you wash and dry, the longer the applied compositions will last.
Also, a protective suit for anti-corrosion treatment of a car or elementary safety equipment - gloves, a hat - will not interfere.
Application of anti-corrosion materials in hidden cavities (thresholds, wheel arches) occur with the help of air spraying - an airbrush (if you have special equipment) or from a can (if you do it yourself). The bottom of the car and other easily accessible places are treated with rollers or a paint brush (it is desirable to have several different sizes) - the preparation is applied manually. Apply in 3-4 layers at a temperature not lower than +15 C with intermediate drying of the layers (at least 30-60 minutes). Then leave to dry for at least a day.
It should be said that domestic bitumen-rubber mastic, in my experience, is of little use for application to pure metal. It flakes off and exposes the rusty iron it's supposed to protect. Therefore, it must be applied on a pre-primed surface. For the bottom of the car, a rubber mixture in a jar with crumb rubber is suitable. It not only protects the metal, but also works as soundproofing. For wheel arches, it is more convenient to buy anti-gravel in aerosol cans. It is easier to apply, and the time to complete drying is no more than 2-3 hours.
Internal cavities, for example, thresholds, spars and racks, must be treated with Movil-type preservatives. We do it as follows: apply mastic on the bottom (it is cheaper in a jar), and after 2-3 hours - anti-gravel in cylinders. The effect is super!
The anti-corrosion coating of the car protects it from the occurrence of rust, due to which its original appearance is preserved for a long time. Moreover, it is recommended to carry out additional anti-corrosion treatment regularly (every 2-3 years).
- Preparations intended for coating external surfaces. This group includes bituminous mastic, made on the basis of synthetic resins. Such a tool adheres well to the surface of the metal and protects it from shock and other damage. In addition, materials based on rubber and PVC are used as an anti-corrosion coating. They are considered the most durable, but due to their low availability, they are used mainly in automobile factories.
- Materials used to process hidden machine parts. If the question arose, what is the best way to treat the bottom of the car from corrosion, then the most effective remedy is non-drying anti-corrosion compounds that have an oil base. They do not harden, but remain liquid, due to which they fill all the microcracks, tightly adhering to the metal surface. Wax-based preparations are also suitable for processing hidden parts. After use, the compositions dry out, forming a thin film. Moreover, the resulting coating does not lose its elasticity when exposed to high temperatures.
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Advice. Another tool is liquid plastic. However, it has a low resistance to mechanical stress, so it is not recommended to use it as the main tool for anti-corrosion treatment of a car.
How to choose the best materials and products for anti-corrosion treatment of cars
For a complete anti-corrosion treatment of the body, you should not buy funds in aerosol cans. They can only be used for minor repairs, since they contain a low percentage of protective components. They include a solvent with a propellant.
On the advice of experts, do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the body should be carried out using anticorrosive, poured into containers of various sizes. When buying a drug, you must carefully study the data on the package. Information about the manufacturer, date of manufacture and expiration date, composition, instructions for use should be indicated.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice of the type of agent. Before that, you need to decide which part of the car will be processed: the entire car as a whole, hidden or external parts.
You also need to consider that the composition of the purchased product must necessarily include water displacers. Without them, the effectiveness of the drug will be many times lower. Corrosion protection will be most effective if it is carried out with the help of such means, which are considered the best of their kind:
- Dinitrol. Means are made from dinitrocomponents. In addition to high efficiency against the appearance of corrosion, the drug has excellent soundproofing properties. Moreover, the surface treated with it becomes airtight, is not damaged by moisture and high temperature. However, such a drug has a high cost - from 3000 rubles per unit of product.
- RunWay is an inexpensive and quite effective option for anti-corrosion treatment. Its cost is from 500 rubles per jar. It is better to treat the car body from corrosion with its help, because the product dries quickly, is applied in a thin layer. If you distribute 2 layers of the drug, this will be enough to protect against corrosion for 3 years. However, it does not have soundproofing properties.
- noxudol. With its help, the underbody of the car is most often processed, although it is suitable for protecting any internal cavities. The tool has high soundproofing properties. However, it has a significant drawback - it takes at least 3 days to dry it.
Everything is mixed until a homogeneous mass, and then it is heated in a water bath. The drug will be ready immediately after it turns black. Such anticorrosive do-it-yourself is only suitable for the bottom of the car. It must be applied with a brush in a thick layer - at least 1 cm.
Preparing a car for anticorrosive
Protecting a car from rust involves several stages. First of all, the car must be prepared for the process. To do this, you need to clean it from the existing rust. Most often, it accumulates in the bottom area, so special attention is paid to its cleaning. To do this, you should:
- Thoroughly wash the surface of the machine. It is advisable to go to a car wash, where the car will be qualitatively cleaned of any contaminants.
- To remove rust, it is better to use special brushes for metal. A drill will help you quickly clean the bottom.
- You should first remove the fender liner from the car, since very often rust forms under them.
After that, you can treat the bottom of the car with an anti-corrosion compound.
Usually it is applied in a thick layer, which takes several days to dry. It is forbidden to operate the machine during this period.
Production and application of anticorrosive on a car with a gun
Anti-corrosion treatment of a car is an expensive service in a car service. Therefore, many people do it at home. To do this, you need to know several features of the ongoing process.
Processing of internal and hidden cavities (spars, pillars, thresholds)
Do-it-yourself processing of hidden cavities of a car body is carried out using liquid materials with a low degree of viscosity containing corrosion inhibitors. For their application, a special air spray (can or aerosol) is used.
These devices help to process the thresholds of the car from the inside. It is recommended to proceed to the protection of other parts after these elements have dried.
Anticorrosive on the bottom and arches of the car
Protecting the bottom of the car from corrosion is one of the most important steps. It must be carried out on a lift, due to which full access to the lower part of the machine is opened. At home, the lift can be replaced with a viewing hole (in extreme cases, the car is turned on its side). Anticorrosive is evenly applied to the bottom and arches.
Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car is carried out using a roller, brush or brush. The process is carried out manually. It is necessary to process the bottom of the car from corrosion at least 3-4 times. In this case, after applying each layer, you should wait a while until the coating dries.
Complete anticorrosive treatment of the car interior
Inside the cabin, only the floor needs to be treated, since it is most vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, remove all seats, rugs, and then proceed to the process. The mixture is applied with a brush or roller. If it's cold outside, warm up the car interior. The air temperature must be at least 15 degrees Celsius. Apply the substance evenly, in several layers.
Door and body work
When processing doors, special attention should be paid to welds. Apply the drug to the seams in 2 layers, using a special device - a construction gun. Corrosion treatment of the car body includes protection of the hood and trunk. The mixture is applied only to the inside, so as not to damage the paintwork.
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If it is possible to paint the car, then it is recommended to apply an anti-corrosion compound on its entire surface with at least one layer. Depending on the type of anticorrosive, its service life may vary. Cheap options hold for about 2-3 years, after which they need to be updated. More expensive mixtures for anti-corrosion treatment retain their properties for up to 5 years.
Many owners of Premasey and not only are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it in the initial stage, preventing the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a transplant of a donor organ in the form of a repair lining of the wing will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and looks something like this:True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can immediately go to the end, where you will learn how to protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disc and clean off the swollen paint, we carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will rise later:You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if successive layers of primer and paint are visible:
The skin for rooting the process can first be taken coarser - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk is coarser than 220 with soil, so do not climb far. The rest of the surface is matted with sandpaper 600. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that you need to dry the professional well. with a hairdryer, especially corrosion cavities, you can heat up to 60-80g., The paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttying is that they smear with a thick layer in the hope of later cutting off the excess with sandpaper. It will be correct to apply successively 3-4 layers, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should turn out something like this:
If through holes are nevertheless found out, all is not lost. Small holes are covered with putty with fiberglass, large holes - with fiberglass with the same putty. Putty on top with ordinary putty. If the metal is well dried and then cover these places on the inside of the wing with anticorrosive, so that moisture does not get in, then it will walk for many years.
We sand the putty. Since we don’t use bourgeois grinders and planers today, we take a not very clumsy wooden block, wrap it with 120 sandpaper and rub the putty, washing off the waste with a sponge and water. For curved surfaces, instead of a wooden one, we take a rubber block. You can first take the skin to take it rougher, the same 80-ku, but very carefully, changing it then to 120, which we then change to the 240th. The meaning of this whole dance with abrasiveness is that the bumps from puttying are removed with a rough sandpaper (80-120), and the risks from it are 240. Here lies the mistake of many craftsmen, or maybe their conscious action: quickly make the form a rough abrasive and then fill the resulting risk with a thick layer of soil. The result of this is the same - after 1-2 months, subsidence of the soil and the appearance of an angry client at the door. The putty is hygroscopic, so we dry it well with a hairdryer (not higher than 50-60g!), wipe it with a degreaser, cover the car with a film, paste over with newspapers and primer in two layers:On top of the ground with a thin layer, apply a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a can. We rub the dried soil with sandpaper 600-800 with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water with sandpaper 1000 and then with scotchbright. The result is a smooth matte surface:
Paste, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about colors. I do not advise you to consider spray cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture well. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist will match the color 100%. As it is considered in narrow circles, hitting the color by 70-80% depends on the colorist, the rest - on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, the paint is tinted. A good painter will never paint parts end-to-end, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part you have to paint two, or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire fender, make the transition to the door and bumper:As a result, there will be no difference in tone even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and in the evening under a lamp, as if the parts are from different cars?
We protect against corrosion.
Arch corrosion begins with damage to the edge by small pebbles flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, this place must be protected. We buy rubber bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for the VAZ-08. Trimming off the excess:
We well coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, we get this beauty:
What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow you to reduce repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on diligence and skill. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Subject to technology, it provides quite sufficient quality:
Here is such a repair, nothing particularly complicated, go for it!
Anticorrosive- a protective agent against the formation of rust. Earlier we already, now we will touch on this topic in more detail.
Before applying anti-corrosion compounds, it is imperative to remove rust from any metal surface being treated. Typically, an anti-corrosion compound is used to prevent the formation of rust on a car.
In order to save money, you can make anticorrosive with your own hands, or you can buy it ready-made at a car service. At home, the remedy is effective, but its preparation takes a lot of time. When working with a self-produced anticorrosive, you should follow the safety rules and instructions for treating a car from corrosion, and we will talk about choosing a ready-made anticorrosive a little lower.
Types and features of anticorrosive
Anti-corrosion for cars can be made from an aggressive chemical composition that can damage the paintwork of the car. Depending on this, it is necessary to select the components of the solution in such a way that they safely eliminate corrosive deposits without damaging the coating.
Anticorrosive is applied to wheel arches, the bottom of the car, welding spots, and the trunk lid. Each anticorrosive composition contains particles that provide good adhesion. The protective layer covers the metal and protects it from the effects of temperature extremes:
- The bottom of the car is treated with a water-repellent composition, since condensation forms in these places.
- In places of welding seams and loops, an anticorrosive agent with especially pronounced mechanically stable properties is applied. Since these areas are the most exposed to use, they wear out quickly. In addition to the protective composition, you can add anti-gravel, which will serve as a reliable shield against stones and fine dirt. Applying anti-gravity with your own hands is a fairly simple task.
What anticorrosive agent is better to treat the car with? Bitumen and wax are usually used as anticorrosive components. Such a base is ideally combined with zinc, bronze, various types of rust retarders and material hardeners. There are anticorrosive agents based on paraffin and polymers with the addition of rubber, ebonite, silicone and even plastic.
The main feature of anticorrosive is the possibility of unlimited application of the composition to any car parts. A similar principle applies when painting and polishing a car. It all depends on how caring the car owner is. If you correctly apply the product to all elements, there will be no noticeable trace of rust.
The choice of anticorrosive for cars
Anticorrosive aerosol is considered the most ineffective agent against the formation of rust. Its use will only slightly strengthen the metal coating. Anticorrosive in spray cans is used for small rusty spots.
In order for the car to be reliably protected from oxidation, it is necessary to select compositions for specific parts: internal or external. For example, for the treatment of hidden cavities, anticorrosive is selected, which repels moisture well and allows air to pass through.
The outer surface must be covered with a protective agent that is resistant to mechanical stress: impacts of small stones, sand and dirt. If the composition is purchased from the manufacturer, then it is important to check the availability of the standard number, batch, storage period and conditions, instructions for safe work.
The video below provides an overview of anticorrosives and describes in sufficient detail how to choose an anticorrosive for your purposes and not overpay.
Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion
Rust treatment of a car is carried out in specialized car services, but this is also possible at home. The service station has all the necessary tools and components for high-quality manufacturing and application of anticorrosive.
Before you do the anti-corrosion treatment of the car yourself, you need to prepare tools and compositions for the protective mixture:
- "Cordon" is a vibration-absorbing mass necessary for treating a car from rust.
- "Body-950" - 400 ml of soundproofing solution is enough.
- Anticorrosive "Movil-NN" - 2.7 liters.
- Degreaser (acetone or white spirit).
- Cannon fat brown.
- Any protective agent resistant to mechanical damage.
- Adhesive sealant or any similar material for filling cracks in metal structures.
- Plasticine - 2 packs.
These ingredients are used to create a homemade anticorrosive, but for the workflow you will also need different brushes, a drill, napkins, a spray gun, screwdrivers (to remove particularly resistant rust), and protective gloves. Do-it-yourself anticorrosive sprayer can harm the skin of the hands, so it is important to ensure their reliable protection.
Preparing a car for anticorrosive
Preparatory work includes the following items:
- Removal of insulation, soundproofing materials so that they do not interfere with processing.
- Dismantling wipers.
- Complete trunk cleaning.
- Protection of the car interior from anticorrosive: it is necessary to put on tight covers on the seats and the pedal, through which the liquid slippery substance cannot penetrate.
After these works, the car must be thoroughly washed with warm water. The cleaner the car is, the better the anticorrosive treatment will be. Wash with pressure, directing a jet of water to especially dirty places. Then wash the entire surface of the car with soapy water, including hard-to-reach places.
In the end, you need to rinse the car well. Processing should be started only after the car has completely dried, not earlier. All drainage holes must be perfectly clean.
To provide access to the internal cavities of the car, you must use a drill. Drill diameter - 13.5 mm.
“It is advisable to make holes in the body where there are already technological ones, and only on a single-layer sheet. In places with corrosion, drilling is undesirable.
Anticorrosive: manufacturing and application
How to do anti-corrosion treatment? From a clean car, you need to remove the wheels and arched plastic protection, and only then proceed to applying several layers of the future anti-corrosion coating:
- The under-wheel area must be treated with a degreaser, and then with a soundproofing compound. 3-4 layers are enough with an interlayer interval, the main thing is to observe the complete drying of the previous sound insulator.
- Now you need to mix cannon fat, plasticine and "Cordon" in a metal container. The mixture must be heated in a water bath - placed in a container of boiling water. As soon as the composition turns black, it is necessary to turn off the fire. The resulting mixture must be applied with a brush on the bottom of the car. The layer must be thick.
- Anticorrosive agent "Movil-NN" needs to process all the screws of those parts that were removed. You can mount them in place only after 3 hours have elapsed from the moment the bottom of the car was smeared.
In order for do-it-yourself anticorrosive treatment to be successful, you need to follow several important rules:
- preparation for processing is just as important a part as applying anticorrosive;
- the composition of the protective mixture should include only professional products and the above ingredients; it is undesirable to use components based on the slander of acquaintances;
- conditions during processing must match the mode that is usually set in car services.
Treatment of internal cavities
How to treat a car with anticorrosive? For these purposes, you will need an anti-corrosion agent and a spray gun with a flexible nozzle. The nozzle of the sprayer should be inserted deep into the cavity until it stops. Pulling the device back, you need to spray the protective composition without stopping.
The thinner the anticorrosive, the more often it should be sprayed. If anticorrosive drops begin to seep out of the hole, then the work has been done successfully. In the absence of such a phenomenon, it is necessary to clean the cavity with a metal nozzle, and then repeat the procedure again.
Helpful Hints:
- in the absence of technological holes, it is necessary to make them yourself, but very competently and in a minimum amount;
- if there are a large number of mechanical devices, electric drives in the car, it is advisable to remove the trim completely;
- if processing is carried out in the internal cavities of the door, it is necessary to spray the material without removing the upholstery;
Anticorrosive on the bottom and arches of the car
When processing the hood and engine compartment, cover the generator and radiator, otherwise the slippery anticorrosive material that has fallen on them will cause the engine to heat up. Do-it-yourself anticorrosive of the bottom of the car must be applied to the hood cover and welding seams.
In the trunk, it is important not to miss the hidden seams. Here you can experiment with different nozzles in order to best clean rusted parts. A thin layer of anticorrosive should be applied to the bottom of the trunk and the rear walls of the lamps to prevent rust between the contacts. Processing the arches of the car with your own hands and the bottom is as follows:
First you need to remove the fenders. Then, on the bottom with a flexible nozzle, process:
- thresholds;
- crossbars;
- amplifiers;
- eyelets, inside the front suspension, levers;
- suspension springs;
- welding seams;
- fasteners, details;
- ball bearings;
- the inner part of the flanging;
- bottom surface.
In order for the material to be used sparingly, you can slightly increase the temperature of the anticorrosive to 30 degrees.
Car interior anticorrosive treatment
Work inside the machine can only be carried out after all foreign objects have been removed and the seats are securely covered. The fixation areas of the seat crossbars must be processed from the inside and outside.
The first - through the technological holes, the second - through the welds. The doorway is also subject to oxidation, so it is necessary to apply anticorrosive to the lower seams and seals. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the overhead guard.
In its place, there will be technological holes leading to the internal parts of the car. In the same way, you need to insert the spray gun all the way and spray anticorrosive. When working with internal cavities, it is important not to exaggerate the amount of solution, otherwise it can get inside and stain the entire interior of the car.
Do-it-yourself car anticorrosive is a viscous, oily liquid and, moreover, difficult to wash. Once on the pedals, it will break the grip of the foot and the surface of the device.
Door processing
The internal cavities of the doors must be treated with anticorrosive. It will not harm electrical contacts. The only thing is that if the nozzle is inaccurately inserted into the technological holes, it is possible to touch important elements and damage them.
The atomizer must be inserted slowly, without touching structural details: servos, wiring, audio systems. In the case when many mechanisms are located in the inner cavity of the door, it is possible to carry out processing using a short nozzle at the bottom of the door. A few rules when working with anticorrosive in the car door:
- Providing access through 2 holes: next to the outer panel (above the lock) and at the bottom of the end 5 cm from the extreme level.
- Using a long nozzle, it is necessary to process the welding seam under the window opening.
- Using a short nozzle, spray the material on the rear end of the door, lock and internal seams.
- If anticorrosive is applied to large vehicles, such as a pickup truck, van, then a hole should be made in the middle of the end. If the internal cavities are deep and more than 15 cm from the end of the nozzle, then another nozzle of a greater length must be inserted. The fact is that oil drops of anticorrosive do not pass further than 15 cm, but dust settles, which is not as effective as large drops;
- The pressure of the material in the spray gun when processing the internal cavities of the doors must be at least 60 atm., Air - 7 atm.
Anticorrosive: effectiveness or futility
It all depends on the quality of the components used, compliance with the rules of spraying and work with repair equipment, the condition of the car and its operating conditions. In case of violation of the integrity of the coating of the machine, it is better to start restoration immediately to avoid metal oxidation.
Any anti-corrosion agent serves no more than 3 years, however, even a few months after treatment, “red” spots may appear. The main reason for their spread is unpleasant weather conditions and high humidity.
In the hot season, it is better not to use wax-based anticorrosives, because at high temperatures it begins to melt and spread over the car. Compounds based on bitumen, which cannot withstand severe frosts, behave in the opposite way.
In order for anticorrosive treatment to be really effective, you must not skip external operations:
- Using a special nozzle with a 45-degree bend, you need to go through the emblems, seals, mirrors, handles and locks.
Upon completion of the repair work, it is necessary to clean the car windows contaminated with stains, mount the wipers back, remove the protective covers and nozzles from the pedals, rinse the handles and locks throughout the car.
If the overlay is dirty, it must be wiped well. Residual work - checking the cleanliness of the car interior is an important process, since excess anticorrosive on the surface of pedals, levers, door handles can lead to serious consequences.
Preferably use car shampoo to remove grease stains, and after washing, rinse the car well. After treatment, the car must be constantly checked for the formation of new rust in order to remove minor corrosion spots in time.
Video on working with anticorrosive
1. Bottom anti-corrosion treatment:
2. Car anti-corrosion treatment (two parts):
Any material undergoes a change in its structure due to the combination with various aggressive substances. For a metal, oxygen (O2) is an aggressive substance, upon contact with which the metal structure is destroyed. Car bodies are now trying to protect to the maximum from the formation of foci of corrosion, the so-called metal bloom.
Anti-corrosion treatment: what is it and what is it for
To extend the service life and beautiful appearance of your favorite car (pasted), there are special tools and technologies that should be done by hand or by specialists.
There are places in the car that corrode faster, rust and rot. This is, first of all, the bottom of the car. The bottom of the machine is impacted by pebbles, gravel, sand, water, snow, reagents. The primer and paint itself could protect against salt and reagents, but with mechanical action, stones hit, the paint cracks and the aggressive environment penetrates the metal surface itself.
It happens even worse when the paint remains intact, but peeled off. In this case, the formation of corrosion centers occurs much faster, since the surface is not ventilated and is always wet.
Comparison of the bodies of a new Russian car and a foreign car
The above listed corrosion formation factors are exposed to both new cars and used foreign or domestic cars.
Domestic automobile plants do not treat their products with anti-corrosion agents. Therefore, after buying a Russian car, it is imperative to do the processing of both the bottom and the arches of the wings and other invisible areas that are significantly exposed to aggressive substances.
As for foreign cars, the body of foreign cars is processed by the plant itself, they have production facilities for this. Processing is carried out by anodizing and zinc coating. The factory anticorrosive agent easily protects the car body for up to 5 years. Of course, it depends in which climatic zone the car was operated, in a humid one near the sea or dry.
In case a dent appears on the body, then there is a new device for removing dents, which even a beginner can work with.
Many are mistaken that all used foreign cars are well protected from corrosion. Of course, there are foreign passenger cars that are 30 years old and do not even “bloom”. Therefore, when buying a used foreign car, you should inspect the car completely, on a flyover, from where it will be clearly visible what condition the bottom and wing arches of the body are in.
Metal fatigue is...
Metal fatigue is a change in properties as a result of the long life of a material. Old metal can no longer easily resist the effects of various aggressive substances and this destroys even faster.
economic benefit
Assessing the financial viability of the procedure for protecting the body from corrosion, we can conclude that the cost of money, time and effort to process the body is much less than the cost that would have to be spent on replacing rusted parts, if they can be replaced at all.
If the body begins to rot, the price of the car will drop dramatically.
How to make anti-corrosion treatment with your own hands?
Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the body is not so difficult and, perhaps, the work will be done much better than by a hired specialist.
Types of tools for metal processing.
Classification of means for treating metal from corrosion:
- wax-based substances;
- bitumen based materials.
Classification of anticorrosives according to the method of application:
- Means for the treatment of hard-to-reach places:
- Non-drying anticorrosive. The name corresponds, because this substance does not dry out at all. Its state in liquid form allows all the time to fill new emerging microcracks from mechanical or thermal influences.
- Paraffin anticorrosives on a wax basis. This type of anticorrosive creates a paraffin protective film, which also protects the metal from contact with oxygen, water and other substances. Paraffin film is resistant to temperature changes.
- Means for protection of open surfaces.
- Bituminous mastic in synthesis with synthetic oils. Processing with such a tool will create a double protection: against corrosion and against mechanical influences (gravel, sand, etc.). The layer thickness should be from 0.25 to 0.4 mm. One of the means of protecting the body from mechanical shocks with small pebbles, etc., is, which happens to be painted, and sometimes, which does not need to be painted.
- Mastic polyvinylchloride (PVC) on a rubber basis. This substance is superior in strength to others. Lasts a long time. It is used, as a rule, in factories, because its application requires special technologies.
- Liquid plastic. This form of plastic protects only from contact with water, salts, reagents, oxygen. As protection against mechanical contact, liquid plastic is not suitable. It is used as an additional layer for both cosmetic and partial processing.
Differences in the formation of corrosion of open and closed places of the car body: open ones rust from mechanical damage, and closed ones from chemicals (salts, acids, oxygen).
How to handle wheel arches and underbody:
In order to produce high-quality processing of the body, it is required to observe the proportions of substances, the sequence of work.
The sequence of work
- Put the car on a flyover or in a viewing hole.
- Clean the bottom: remove dirt, wash, degrease. The quality of this work is very important. If the surface of the metal is greasy or dirty, then the substance will not sit tightly on the metal. Washing ambassadors, preferably with high pressure from a hose, must be dried with a compressor.
- Inspect the paintwork (LPK) of the bottom. If bubbles, cracks are found, they should be cleaned with a metal brush, chisel, knife, grinder with coarse sandpaper. Clean to a shine and treat with a rust converter.
- When the bottom is completely cleaned, it is necessary to degrease again. To do this, you can use white spirit, gasoline, alcohol, acetone.
- After degreasing, the surface must be dried completely.
- Next, apply a zinc primer. A high-quality zinc primer (a small metal bucket) costs about 6,000 rubles.
- After priming, dry again.
- Now it's time to apply the mask. It should be applied in layers, not all at once. Before applying the next layer, the previous one must be kept for about 6 hours. The temperature during drying should not be lower than +16 degrees. The thickness of all applied layers should be within 1.5-2 mm. The consumption of mastic, approximately, will be 5 kg. In the presence of aerosol cans, to save money, you can use them for small areas, for large areas, their use will be expensive.
- The wheel arches are processed in the same sequence, only the wheels must first be removed. Wheel arches are most exposed to pebbles and other hard substances, so after metal processing, it will be good to install protective plastic wheel arch liners.
Recommendation: to create a reliable protection of the body metal surface, it is better to use bitumen mastic. The rubber layer provides better protection against stones and is a good soundproofing barrier. Such rubber-bitumen mastics are produced, for example, by companies:
BODY (Body)
Waxoyl (Vaksoil)
MOVIL
Dinitrol (Dinitrol)
Before use, the mastic must be well stirred until a homogeneous mass is formed. If it is thick, then it should be diluted with turpentine, solvent or xylene.
Stone chip protection
Spoilers (lower part), sills, bottom of doors are treated with antigravel. The anti-gravity agent consists of:
- rubber
- resins;
- bitumen.
They are usually black and grey. After processing the visible areas, you will have to paint.
Processing hidden areas
For corrosion treatment of hard-to-reach hidden places, it is necessary to use a special bending long nozzle. The tube is inserted into special holes for fastening. If they are not there, you can drill, but after processing, muffle.
To process the inner surfaces of the metal of the car body, it is necessary to introduce and slowly pull out a long nozzle, while spraying the substance. For example, you can use a Walmec pistol (Valmek). This gun has a long tube for spraying the substance into hard-to-reach places.
Anticorrosive agents for the treatment of internal surfaces: Rust Stop A, Testyl Zinc ML. They have a strong odor that disappears after a week.
Mistakes in corrosion protection
To avoid mistakes during metal bodywork, you need to know them. So, the popular common mistakes are:
Do not use materials that are not intended for such work. These are, for example: used oil (working out), ordinary bitumen, etc. Such substances do not contain elements that slow down the formation of corrosion. Such products can even do harm by creating a greenhouse effect due to which the paint peels off.
Do I need to process the body a second time
Useful information - re-treatment, in order for it to be beneficial, must be done with drugs that were not used to protect the first layer. The second layer must penetrate the first layer. If their composition is the same, then it will not be able to reach the surface of the metal.
For the second and subsequent treatments, oil anti-corrosion agents are used. They dissolve the first layer and penetrate to the center of corrosion. Based on this, it is not necessary to prepare the bottom of the car body, as before applying the first layer.
Video
This video talks about how anticorrosive treatment of the car body.
Video advice: how to process body fenders.
How to protect thresholds with liquid rubber.