Winter is just around the corner, and this indicates that another difficult period awaits motorists, because the operation of a car in the winter requires a special approach.
Modern cars are largely prepared for winter periods, although they still require intervention before this season. Owners of used Soviet cars are somewhat worse off; preparation for the winter period includes a larger set of measures. And yet there are still a lot of such cars, so we will consider what needs to be done before winter using the VAZ-2106 car as an example.
What you need to have in a car in winter
The preparation of the VAZ 2106 for the winter concerns almost all systems and mechanisms of the car, as well as the constant availability of a certain list of tools that will help in certain conditions. Let's start with this list.
So, the car should always have:
- A can of silicone grease and a can of WD-40;
- Means for removing snow and ice crust from glass;
- Means for defrosting locks;
- Scraper and brush for cleaning windows and car body from snow;
- Floor mats with high sides;
- Sapper or small bayonet shovel;
- Chains or anti-skid bracelets;
About some points. Always keep the tool for defrosting locks in the house, and not in the car, otherwise, if all the locks freeze, you can’t get it out of the car in order to use it simply won’t work.
It is better to always have a set of anti-skid bracelets in the trunk than chains. Installation of bracelets on wheels is possible even after the car is bogged down in the snow, this will not work with chains.
Another interesting tip from the seasoned: keep a bag of sand weighing at least 50 kg in the garage. If the road conditions are difficult, but you have to go, throw a sandbag into the trunk of the VAZ-2106. This car is rear-wheel drive, and the presence of additional cargo will ensure a more stable behavior of the car on the road.
Now let's go through the car itself. In 2106, winterization affects almost all engine systems.
Cooling system
Let's start with the cooling system, because the correct temperature regime of the engine depends on it. First of all, you should pay attention to the condition of the coolant. If it is cloudy, has long lost its original color, and even if water was used for topping up, then it must be replaced.
The radiator provides cooling of the working fluid, but in winter, during frosts, it will cool it very quickly, which will disrupt the temperature regime, so a shield should be installed in front of the radiator, behind its grille, which will block the flow of fresh air to the radiator when moving. Even ordinary cardboard paper can act as this shield.
Brake system
The brake system also needs to be examined and, if necessary, serviced. Worn pads will not be able to work efficiently enough, and if uneven wear is also noticed, this indicates that the brake mechanisms of the car are malfunctioning. And uneven braking force on the pads of different wheels will certainly lead to skidding during braking.
Lubrication system
The lubrication system before winter also needs to be diagnosed. Oil for the winter VAZ-2106 is better to use a new one. The oil that has spent almost its entire resource will greatly complicate the start-up. We usually use all-weather oil, but before winter, you need to take into account the properties of the filled oil. So, oil marked 15W40 is already at -15 degrees. will thicken greatly, but 5W40 at this temperature will still be quite liquid. When changing the oil, the filter must also be replaced.
| Minimum cold start temperature of the engine, deg. WITH | Viscosity grade according to SAE J300 | Maximum ambient temperature, deg. WITH |
| below -30 | OW-30 | 25 |
| below -30 | OW-40 | 30 |
| -30 | 5W-30 | 25 |
| -30 | 5W-40 | 35 |
| -25 | 10W-30 | 25 |
| -25 | 10W-40 | 35 |
| -20 | 15W-40 | 45 |
| -15 | 20W-50 | above 45 |
Winter tires
Now let's move on to one of the most basic conditions for the successful operation of a car - wheels. Rubber on the VAZ "winter" is now provided on the market by various manufacturers, from unknown to famous companies. It is only important to choose the right size.
It is quite difficult to answer the question of which tires are better for the winter VAZ-2106. Much depends on the weather conditions in winter, but they can change. One likes “studding” - effective on all surfaces, except for ice, on which the studs can slip. In addition, they are quite noisy. Velcro, which does not have steel spikes, shows itself perfectly on ice, but it is not very suitable for a snowy road.
In general, about the wheels - this is a matter of habit and driving experience, it is only important that the car is already equipped with winter tires by the beginning of winter, and of high quality, and you don’t have to remove the wheels and take them separately to tire fitting for “changing shoes”.
Interior heating system
No one wants to freeze in a car, so you should audit the heating and ventilation system of the cabin. First of all, you need to evaluate the performance of the stove radiator. If, when the heating is on, it practically does not heat, it is better to immediately replace this radiator, since it is clogged.
You also need to evaluate the performance of the stove fan, it should turn easily, without third-party noises and squeaks, otherwise it will need to be removed, cleaned and lubricated.
It is also necessary to check the air ducts and, if necessary, clean them of dust, and also check the sealing gaskets on all dampers.
Ignition and power systems
Let's move on to the ignition system. Ease of start-up depends on its performance, so all maintenance work must be carried out in advance. All wires should be checked, especially high voltage wires for breakdown, if necessary, replace the candles, and make the correct adjustment of the ignition.
As for the power system, it is advisable to clean the carburetor before winter (if the engine is carbureted) or complete maintenance of the injector (if such a power system is installed on the engine).
One of the main problems in winter is the water in the fuel tank, which can freeze, blocking the fuel supply channels. Before winter, remove the tank, rinse it thoroughly and dry it. And in winter it is desirable to keep the tank as full as possible. The less air in the tank, the lower the chance of condensation.
Preparation of electrical equipment
The possibility of starting the engine in winter largely depends on the condition of the electrical equipment elements. If in the summer the starter functioned intermittently and did not always start the engine quickly, then in the winter it will not be able to do this at all, so the starter must be repaired.
Then you need to evaluate the performance of the generator. When starting a car, the battery consumes its charge significantly, and with a “jumping” generator, the battery may not fully restore its charge and the next time it will not work to start the power plant.
Particular attention should be paid to the battery, since without it it is impossible to start a car. Before the onset of cold weather, it is necessary to carry out a full range of maintenance work with the battery - check the state of the electrolyte and its density, measure the charge level, everything needs to be brought back to normal.
With the onset of severe frosts, it is advisable to remove the battery at night and keep it warm before a morning trip. In extreme cases, remove the "negative" terminal after putting the car in the parking lot.
It is also important to insulate the car for the winter. It is necessary to hang a heater on the hood so that the power unit warms up faster and keeps the temperature longer. It is necessary to check the condition of the seals of the doors, windows, trunk, and, if necessary, replace the damaged seals.
How to start the engine correctly
Now a few words about how to properly start the power unit of a car in the winter. Since the oil thickens in cold weather, it is difficult for the starter to turn the crankshaft, and a significant amount of energy is consumed.
To facilitate starting, before turning on the starter, you should “blink” the headlights several times. This simple action will "accelerate" the battery and provide full energy return. You should not turn the starter for a long time in winter, if the engine does not start within 10 seconds, you need to stop turning the starter and turn off the ignition. The next attempt can be made only after 1 minute.
The power plant is constantly connected with the transmission, and when the crankshaft is cranked, the gearbox shafts also rotate, which also complicate cranking. To facilitate starting, it is enough to depress the clutch pedal to disconnect the motor from the gearbox. And after starting the engine, release the pedal slowly so that the connection occurs smoothly and without jerks.
It is mandatory to use the air damper handle on the VAZ-2106. Before starting, use the handle to close the air supply, thereby increasing the amount of fuel supplied. Also, before starting, it will not be superfluous to pump up the carburetor a little with fuel using manual pumping.
Car storage
Not everyone uses their car in winter, but prefer to park it, but you also need to know how to do this. When parking a car on the street, it is not recommended to cover it with a tarpaulin or plastic wrap; it is better to make a canopy out of these materials.
The car itself must be raised on supports so that it does not touch the ground with its wheels. This will unload the suspension and the springs will not sag from a long standing car, and the wheels will not be damaged either.
You need to remove the battery from the car, while during the period of inactivity of the car, you will need to monitor the condition of the battery and periodically service it.
In order not to grab the pistons in the cylinders, before setting through the spark plug holes, pour 30-50 g of engine oil into each cylinder, then turn the crankshaft a couple of times to create an oil film on the cylinder mirrors.
Finally, you should check the tightness of the cabin so that moisture does not get into the cabin during parking.
These are the main recommendations on how to insulate the VAZ-2106 for the winter, prepare and how to start the engine correctly. Although there are still a lot of all sorts of nuances, despite the fact that almost every car requires its own individual approach.
Video - preparing the car for winter
Some owners of the VAZ 2106 and other "classic" models prefer not to operate their car in winter. But still, the vast majority of motorists prefer not to put their car in the garage for storage, and continue to drive in the same mode during the cold season. It is for such car owners that useful tips on winter operation, as well as competent engine start-up, will be given below.
It should be noted right away that all the recommendations that will be given are taken from the official manuals for the maintenance and operation of VAZ 2106 cars. Of course, in the latest books there is already very little information on this subject, but in the instructions issued when buying a car back in times of the USSR, much more was written.
Starting the VAZ 2106 engine in winter
Many, of course, are familiar with these useful tips, but it won’t hurt anyone to remind them once again.
- To improve starting at very low air temperatures, it is recommended to turn the crankshaft of the engine with a handle, if possible (since 1991, the starting handle has not been attached to the VAZ 2106 car).
- It is also recommended to turn on the headlights of the car for a few seconds, thereby allowing the battery to warm up a little.
- Be sure to depress the clutch pedal. This is necessary in order to free the engine from the gearbox, thereby lightening the load on it. Even after starting, do not rush to immediately release the clutch, as the oil in the gearbox is still thick and the engine may stall.
- Pull on the choke control handle (carburetor choke)
- Start the starter with the clutch pedal depressed.
- Gradually return the choke handle to its original place, but do this as the engine warms up so that it does not stall.
- Let the engine run for at least 5 minutes at a slight increase from the minimum crankshaft speed, pressing and releasing the gas pedal at intervals. This is necessary in order for the oil to better flow to the contacting rubbing surfaces of the unit.
The beginning of the movement of the car VAZ 2106 at low temperatures
It is extremely important in the winter season to monitor the car during the first kilometers of movement after starting.
- It is recommended to drive at least the first 1000 meters in first gear.
- At the same time, avoid too low and excessively high engine speeds. This is necessary so that the oil in all units, such as the internal combustion engine, gearbox and rear axle gearbox, acquires a normal viscosity.
- Pay attention to the brake system of the car. Make a few short presses on the brake pedal at low speed to dry the discs and pads, as in winter a thin layer of ice may form on the rubbing surfaces of the brake system, especially during parking.
It is also worth bearing in mind that in winter it is necessary to use oils with a different type of viscosity than in summer. Simply put, it should be less viscous and more fluid. To date, there are many synthetic oils that are equally suitable for both summer and winter operation, that is, they have a wide temperature range of application.
Do not forget about the condition of the battery. In the cold season, it needs to be monitored more carefully. Regularly check the level and density of the electrolyte in the banks, and also recharge the battery from a special charger, if necessary.
As soon as the cold sets in, most of the cars in all car parks categorically refuse to start, which, we agree, is not a normal phenomenon, because. any serviceable engine should start In any weather.
Here - initially frosty weather should not exceed the critical one for your car. And you must calculate this temperature only empirically. For example - carburetor classics (my VAZ 2106) starts up at a maximum of - 33, and the injection opel vectra - at - 25. The temperature is lower - without warming up, you should not even try.
But if your car does not start in clear frosty weather, then you should not panic in a desperate attempt to drive the starter, and of course, put the battery to zero.
To begin with, you still need to make sure that all the electrical appliances of the car - the stove, radio, sidelights, glass heating - are turned off. And only then you need to directly approach the most important thing - the engine plant in frosty conditions.
If your car has been in a cold car park all night, then the battery must be warmed up. How to do it? Does it really need to be brought into a warm room and put on recharging? Of course, this would be a good option, but if there is no warm room and no charger, then in the morning you just need to turn on the headlights for 15-20 seconds, which will allow the battery to warm up a little, but the engine should not be started yet.
We put the gearshift knob in neutral, squeeze the clutch - the oil in the gearbox thickened from the cold - and turn the ignition key. If the car has a so-called. choke, then pull the choke handle completely towards you. This will allow the carbureted engine to start faster. If the engine could not start the first time, then you need to try again after 30-40 seconds. If after 3-4 attempts it is not possible to start the engine, then you need to proceed to the next step.
We open the hood, remove excess moisture from the battery terminals, as a rule - it is sure to form there in the morning, with a special dry rag. We unscrew the battery terminals, turn them back and forth several times, twist them again and try to start everything. If it doesn’t work after several attempts, then it’s better to stop doing it, otherwise there is a risk that you will simply flood the spark plugs with fuel. If you have already filled in, then you need to wait a bit and try again. If this does not work out, then you need to unscrew the flooded candles, and instead of them, twist the candles with a large glow number, which are ideal for winter conditions. Of course, they will not be able to serve for a long time, but they are just right for the winter season. If you want the spark plugs to last as long as possible, it would be right if you unscrew them from time to time, take them home, fry them properly from soot on an ordinary household gas stove, adjust the gap between the anode and cathode with a special probe, etc. .d. Only in this case, you can hope that the spark plugs will serve you for a long time and properly.
As soon as you start the engine, you must definitely work hard on the gas pedal - this will allow the engine to warm up faster and start charging the battery. As a rule, at idle, engine speed does not exceed 800 rpm, and battery charging begins only when engine speed begins to exceed 1200 rpm. And only when the car engine warms up properly (80-85 ° C), then only in this case it will be possible to turn on the stove. If your car has an automatic transmission, then it must also be warmed up before driving, because. cold thickened oil will not allow the car to go far, and you risk permanent damage to the automatic transmission.
The first commandment for any car enthusiast is to be familiar with your car. When cold weather sets in, most cars refuse to start, so many people want to know how to start a VAZ 2106 in winter. Of course, the fact that the car does not start is not normal, a serviceable engine should start in any weather.
- Frosty weather should not exceed the critical temperature for your car. Such a value can only be calculated empirically and the car owner himself should know it. For VAZ 2106, this temperature is 33, if the temperature is lower, then do not try to start it without warming up.
— The battery must be warm. For a cold start, you need to bring it home in the evening or leave it overnight in a warm place, for example, arrange with a car park watchman. If this is not possible, turn on the headlights for twenty seconds in the morning. The battery will warm up a little, but do not start the engine yet.
- Put the gear knob in neutral, depress the clutch and turn the ignition key. With a carburetor engine, it is imperative to pump up fuel by suction to the carburetor. The choke on the VAZ 2106 is fully extended, when it starts to grab, slightly gas up the pedal. If you don't get it right the first time, try again in a minute. If after four attempts nothing comes up, move on to another method.
- Open the hood and use a dry cloth to remove excess moisture from the battery terminals. Unscrew the terminals and turn them back and forth several times. Spin it up and try to start the car. If it doesn't, then don't do anything, or you'll just flood the spark plugs with fuel.
- If all else fails, then get started from the pusher. Attach a special cable to another car, accelerate and turn on the second speed and then slowly release the clutch. This method is the most reliable.
If you have not prepared your car for it yet, hurry up. We do not insist that you follow all our advice and recommendations on your own. If there is no desire to mess around, there are service stations and professional masters. But you have to imagine what exactly needs to be done with the car, clearly explain it to the master, and sometimes make sure that everything is done right.
Tires
They don’t walk on snow and ice in sandals - the car also needs to be changed for the winter. We wrote about winter tires more than once, so we will briefly recall only the main points.
Winter tires are marked M + S (Mud + Snow - "Mud + Snow"), Winter ("Winter") or W. These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or cloud.
It is better to choose tires that are narrower than those that you drive in the summer - naturally, within the size range allowed for your car. The tread has to push through the snow and mud to a hard surface, and narrow tires do it better.
It is undesirable to drive in winter on all-season tires - those that are marked with the indices AS (All Seasons - "All Seasons") or AW (Any Weather - "Any Weather").
Their "winter" opportunities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia. This applies to a lesser extent to rubber for SUVs. It is in the all-season version significantly "more wintery" than the passenger one. If you have an SUV, AS and AW tires in winter are acceptable. But, of course, worse than M+S or Winter.
Studded tires grip better on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean pavement, when braking on spikes, the likelihood of wheel blocking, skidding and stopping distance increase: steel spikes glide well on asphalt. The danger also lies in the fact that drivers blindly believe in spikes and, braking on asphalt, expect the same stranglehold from them as on ice. By the way, non-studded winter tires of new generations on slippery surfaces behave almost no worse than studded ones.
Some put studded tires for the winter only on the drive wheels. And on the followers they leave ... summer. Don't do it, it's dangerous. On a slippery road, the probability of demolition of a non-studded pair of wheels is very high, even in relatively harmless situations - the coefficients of adhesion and resistance to side slip are too different.
Do not hiss tires anywhere. This is a responsible process that requires good equipment and specialists. Skewed, insufficiently or excessively recessed studs in the rubber increase tire wear. And, of course, they do not contribute to safety.
Engine
The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. More often it occurs in carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an injection engine can also encounter it. The reasons are known - thickened oil, a drop in battery capacity and poor evaporation of gasoline. We will consider oils and batteries separately, but for now - a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, where pre-start electric heaters are widely used - a kind of "boiler" in the engine cooling system. I drove up to the house or office, plugged the plug into the socket, turned on the timer ... By the right time, the engine will be warmed up, and some designs also provide interior heating.
Electric heating devices have been presented on the Russian market for several years. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers. The cost including installation is about $250. For about $100 you can buy a domestic heater (for VAZ and Volga models), but there is no timer for it.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is that a house or office needs to have a special shield with a socket. This is good for the Finns, but we have the appropriate infrastructure, if it appears, then not soon and not everywhere. Another way out is an autonomous liquid fuel heater, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of a hot water boiler. Fuel for it is gasoline or diesel fuel, depending on what your car engine is running on.
Autonomous heaters manufactured by Eberspacher, Webasto, as well as products of the Shchadrinsk Auto-Aggregate Plant (ShAAZ) are presented on the Russian market.
You can install the heater at specialized stations, of which there are already quite a few both in Moscow and in Russia as a whole. Warm-up time - no more than 15 minutes, while only 200 g of gasoline or diesel fuel is spent. Such heaters (in addition to the timer) can be equipped with a remote control device. The cost of an autonomous heater in the Russian market is about $1000.
The benefit of heating systems also lies in the fact that when they are used, the engine resource increases. For reference: each start of a cold engine at a temperature of 20 ° C is equivalent to a run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views, the motor will reach operating temperature faster, and its wear will be less if, after starting, you do not stand still, but start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.
Oil
Oil changes are usually made in relation to the mileage of the car, and not to the season. But since oil is changed on average every six months, why not do it in anticipation of winter?
The vast majority of modern motor oils are, to one degree or another, multigrade. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the car's operating instructions. But winters are different - both slushy-warm and bitterly frosty. And it is not at all clear whether the manufacturer assumed that his car would be operated in the conditions of the Russian winter, and that he would need oil “cooler”.
If you decide to deviate from the instructions, when choosing an oil, you can use a simple trick to determine its temperature suitability - for safety. Let's call this technique "Rule 35".
The marking of engine oil must include the designation of its viscosity class according to the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. This means that this oil, in terms of viscosity at sub-zero temperatures, meets the requirements for winter oils of class 15W, and at positive temperatures - for summer oils of class 40.
Remember the number 35. If you subtract the "winter" viscosity index from it, in our example it is 15, you get a value called the limiting pumpability temperature, that is, the temperature at which the oil still retains fluidity.
35 - 15 = 20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to -20 ° C.
Accordingly, the lower the "winter" viscosity index, the "colder" the oil. 10W - up to -25° C; 5W - up to -30°C.
This is "Rule 35". Simple and useful.
Battery
The frost has hit, and the battery, which had been briskly turning the starter yesterday, refuses to do it flatly. No wonder - when was the last time you charged it?
If the battery is relatively young (up to 3Р4 years old), then in anticipation of winter it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge it - if the car was constantly used in the city, the battery charge is probably far from nominal. If the battery is old and does not charge to its nominal capacity, change it without hesitation, otherwise it will surely let you down in winter - the capacity drops so much with decreasing temperature, and then there is also increased energy consumption - a heater, heated seats, lights, wipers, rear window heater. ..
By the way, according to experts, the average duration of a "full life" of a battery is about twelve months, then gradual fading begins. And the peak of sales of starter batteries, according to sellers, falls just in the fall.
The times when the car owner was knocked down in search of a new battery are long gone - the variety of brands and models on store shelves dazzles the eyes. Which one to choose is a personal matter for everyone. We only note that two price groups can now be distinguished on the market - batteries costing over $60 (usually up to $100), for example, "Bosch", "Steco", "American", "Fiamm", and batteries priced below $60 ("Mutlu ", "Inci", "Centra", "SAEM", etc.).
The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally categorized as maintenance free. Special types of electrolytes and hermetic design of such batteries increase their service life and provide high starter currents that guarantee engine cranking even in severe frosts. Leading manufacturers now make it mandatory to use wafer stacking technology, which avoids short circuiting the battery in the event of a battery failure.
Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level. Recall that the electrolyte density for the winter period should not be lower than 1.29.
Often, when buying a new battery, they try to choose it with a larger capacity, just to fit into the space allotted for it. But capacity is not the point. Much more important is the starter current provided by the battery. Indeed, even for a battery with a large capacity, this indicator (due to the large intrinsic resistance) may be lower than for a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a battery with a larger capacity requires a higher charging current, which your car's alternator will not provide, and the battery will be discharged more and more during operation, which will have a deplorable effect on its service life.
By the way, if you buy a battery that differs from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals - there are “reverse polarity” batteries, the terminals of which the wires of your car may not reach.
Ignition system
If you have a new foreign-made car, and even with an injection engine, you don’t have to read further. But if the car is used, with a carburetor engine, then it's a different matter. Actually, the power supply and ignition systems are not connected with each other. But on modern injection engines you will not find either the memorable mechanical distributor or the breaker contacts. And on carburetors - as much as you like. And in order not to mess around later in the cold, the contacts must be cleaned, the distributor cap too (or better replaced). Even better is to replace the classic ignition system with an electronic one (if there are still car owners who have not done this).
Don't forget high voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our "salty" roads, it is advisable to change them, and it is better to use wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, frost does not form on them, which is often the reason for the absence of a spark. By the way, a common cause of ignition problems can be corrosion or poor tightening of the battery terminals.
Separately - about candles. Usually they are changed after 15-20 thousand kilometers, that is, once every one and a half years (we do not take ultra-modern ones that can withstand 100 thousand km or more). No need to save on candles - ignite, clean and adjust gaps. Change at least once a year - it's inexpensive. And put new ones on the eve of winter. Fuel system
Often it is the cause of unsatisfactory engine operation in winter. And all - because of the accumulated water condensate in the fuel tank. If there is a drain plug in the tank, the water can simply be drained; if not, it can be "neutralized" using the so-called "moisture displacers". Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemicals present on the Russian market (STP, Loctite, WynnXs, Aspokem) offer similar preparations that are poured into the fuel tank and gradually clean the power system.
It will not be superfluous to put in a new fine fuel filter, clean the carburetor, and if the engine has an injection system, make sure the injectors are clean.
Owners of diesel foreign cars, especially if the car was previously operated in a country with a mild climate, should take care of equipping the fuel system with special heating devices. Practice shows that it is difficult to start a diesel engine at -20 ° C, as the fuel loses its fluidity (one can only guess how “winter” the diesel fuel that we sell in winter is). One of the effective measures is the use of heated fuel drives and filters. At the same time, it is possible to start a diesel engine even at -40 ° C. Heating is carried out by elements that are powered by a standard battery.
The current consumed by them is about 5A, the inclusion of heaters for 5–10 minutes has practically no effect on the battery capacity.
Body
Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving through streets heavily sprinkled with salt. It is during this period that the body is exposed to corrosion to the maximum extent, and its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to the employees of some authorized service centers, for a number of new foreign cars, especially those with a galvanized body, factory processing is quite enough. But if you have, say, a new Skoda (not to mention domestic cars), then experts recommend a complete anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom, wheel arches and body cavities.
It will also be useful to install fender liner.
The cost of a complex of these services averages $250-300 and depends mainly on the type of protective drugs used. There are a lot of them on our market now. But first of all, it is probably worth paying attention to those that are used in countries with a climate similar to ours. These can be Finnish Mercasol AL with aluminum additives, Swedish Noxudol on a metallized basis, Canadian Rust stop or Tektyl.
Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for domestic use, it is still preferable to carry out the treatment in a specialized service center. It is worthwhile to find out in advance by what technology it is produced. In any case, before applying a protective coating on the bottom and arches, the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.
Since you have been doing anticorrosive treatment for several years, it is better to be present near the car and personally observe this process.
Winter is a difficult test for body paintwork. Sudden temperature changes, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The surface of the body can be protected with a special compound suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these preparations is carried out approximately once a month - after the obligatory washing of the car and drying it.
The question of where to keep the car in winter is actually usually not worth it - those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who do not have it on the street. Oddly enough, from the point of view of the safety of the body (from corrosion, not from theft), between trips and at night it is better to leave the car on the street - with a cold body, the corrosion process is slower. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt are actively doing their dirty work for some time. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the car from salt from below, it will stand wet all night ...
glass
Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it is hardly worth recalling that the windshield wipers, blowing and heating the windows must be in good order. Throw away brushes that leave matte stripes on the glass. And when buying new ones, try to choose branded ones - Bosch, ITE, Champion ... Residents of the northern regions can try heated brushes that are connected to the on-board network - they have recently appeared on sale.
Another element of active safety is the side rear-view mirrors. In winter, they have to be cleared daily of ice crust or snow. At the same time, their initial installation is lost, which causes additional trouble. With an extra $250, you can install electrically heated and power mirrors that will make communication with the car more enjoyable.
Now directly about glasses. It is better to entrust their examination to a specialist, but personal control will not hurt either. After all, even a small chip on the windshield in the first frost after the autumn rain will turn into a full-fledged crack. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It's easier and cheaper than glass replacement - repair (removal of a crack) 10 cm long will cost $50, and new glass and its "insert" - at least $350.
Another "winter" problem is fogging of glasses. With a good ventilation system, it rarely occurs, but ... It helps to use anti-fogging fluids, for example, Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which are enough to be applied to the glass once a week.
Consumables
All consumables, including antifreeze and brake and clutch hydraulic fluids, have a life span. If even the slightest doubt arises, it is not necessary to take a portion of the antifreeze that has turned brown or green from old age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace antifreeze. And do not save money by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates - it will cost more.
No less careful should be approached to the choice of non-freezing glass washers. This is in the countryside at -20 ° - dry and clean snow under the wheels. And in Moscow, even in severe frost - a dirty greasy slurry, which the brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, the supply of fluid in the washer reservoir is an indispensable condition for safe driving. But when buying a liquid with a freezing point of -20 ° C, do not flatter yourself and do not try to dilute it, even if it is -10 ° C outside. Practice shows that liquids with a freezing point of -40 ° C freeze on the windshield even in ten-degree frost if the glass is not heated (again to the question of the health of the ventilation and heating system).
Anti-freeze washer fluids usually contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean glass. Some of them, it is true, foam too much, but they are also much better than cheap vodka, which many people preferred to pour into a tank last winter. She only smells in the combat cabin, and she doesn’t clean the glass well ...
Well, that's probably all. If you follow at least some of these recommendations,
