LOOK AT THE THING!
Before buying a used car, and even more so washing the keys in champagne, it is useful to learn about its characteristic malfunctions. We will talk about the very popular "symbols" of the first and second generations. Sedans from Turkey (they are assembled there) differ in much the same way as the "frets" of models 21099 and 2115 - only externally. Our observations are also valid for the rarer Clio II hatchbacks of the French and Slovenian assembly - the platforms of the models, as well as part of the units, are also the same.
The prices of "Symbol" in the secondary market are very attractive. Cheaper than 156,000 rubles (which is where the bargaining starts) you can hardly buy another foreign car of 2003. Design played an important role in this: the car resembles a Zaporozhets with a curvy back, and this seems to scare off some potential buyers.
Under the unsightly appearance in places, a thing is hidden - a strong and solid body. He doesn't mind rust. Only in very old cars with high mileage does it appear on the leading edge of the hood. The wheel arches, although not protected by fender liner, hold firm. The front fenders are completely plastic, but, nevertheless, they endure frost and do not crack, unlike similar plumage in some other cars. Hence the conclusion: if there is rust on the body, this is most likely a legacy of the accident past.
Electrical faults are mainly caused by loose or oxidized pins in connectors. If, say, the engine does not start well, stalls for no apparent reason and the Check Engine lamp is on, then we clean and tighten the contacts of the crankshaft position sensor. Did not help - check the temperature sensor. He has one output common, the second goes to the instrument panel, and the third - to the engine control unit. The last contact is most often junk. Due to the increased transition resistance, the temperature signal is distorted. Recently, more reliable connectors have been installed at the factory, so far there have been no problems with them.
Do not press the brake pedal for a long time, for example, while standing in a traffic jam. The brake light switch is not designed for long-term operation: the contacts burn out in it. On machines with mechanics, use the handbrake, switch the machine to P mode, then you will not encounter such a malfunction.
After three or four years, ignition coils sometimes fail on 16-valve K4J engines. Be sure to bring a spare! Guilty is easy to calculate - by a wet candle. On 8-valve engines of the K7 series, a four-pin ignition module is installed, it is also not without a sin - it cracks. A sure sign that indicates the urgency of a replacement is an oil leak.
OIL DOES NOT SPOIL
Of all the variety (see Model History), only variants with 1.4 liter engines were officially supplied to the Russian market. Unlike the same type of logan motors, the “symbols” do not sweat with oil. However, much depends on the operating conditions. If you turn a cold engine in winter to the limiter, any oil seal will leak.
The timing drive is a belt drive, it needs to be replaced every 60 thousand km and is endowed with an unpleasant feature: there is no key in the connection between the pulley and the crankshaft! By unscrewing the central bolt, you can guess for a long time how to set the drive according to the marks. Without mandrels and skills, it is better to entrust this work to specialists. Make sure that not only the belt is changed, but also the rollers, and also check the pump and the generator pulley. As a rule, by 120 thousand km, the bearings in the pump wear out (play appears, balls roll over), and the pulley damper is destroyed - the rubber peels off the metal. Then both nodes will have to be changed. Every 60 thousand km we also replace the drive belt of mounted units. Here, too, there are nuances: in some configurations, the belt is pulled onto the pulleys of stationary units using mandrels, and there are versions where the number of streams on the belt does not match the tracks on the pulleys (unification costs). Entrust the specialists with this replacement.
The idle speed controller requires attention - it is found on some machines with K7M engines, where the throttle drive is mechanical. The first thing that indicates the need to purchase a "carburetor cleaner" is unstable idle. Rinse the regulator - the speed will return to normal. On more modern K4J and K7J motors, do the same with the electronic throttle assembly.
Engines treat the increased content of resins in fuel in different ways: 8-valve engines are indifferent, 16-valve engines are more sensitive - it happened that the valves stuck in the guides. And although there are negligible such cases, dealers advise not to tempt fate - regularly flush the nozzles without removing them from the engine. At the same time, the valve stems are also cleaned.
Keep an eye on the power steering pressure pipe, which, although rare, leaks. Worth a look and…. Not only will the expensive booster pump die for a long time, but you can’t turn the steering wheel either. By the way, the pipe is also, apparently, made of precious metal - almost 14.7 thousand rubles with a replacement.
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Surprisingly, the infamous DP0 automatic works flawlessly here. But with the same machine gun on "megans" there is enough trouble. Obviously, the smaller mass of the "Symbol" in combination with a weaker motor is for the good. And in order to be quite confident in the health of the unit, we recommend changing the oil after 90 thousand km - it's not so expensive.
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There is no need to complain about the mechanical box. Keep an eye on the left drive cover, which cracks with age and stops holding oil. Without it, of course, the box is doomed to death. The clutch, with skillful handling, lasts quite a long time - 160–180 thousand km.
AT FOUR POINTS
The front hub bearings last 80-100 thousand km, and the rear life is very dependent on the load of the machine. If you stuff a full trunk with weight (its volume delights summer residents), the bearings can give up ahead of schedule, but if you carry it in moderation, without fanaticism, then up to 150-180 thousand km they are unlikely to bother.
In the front suspension of some cars in 2002, cracks appeared in the levers, so they were changed without fail during the recall campaign. There is no reason to fear that someone has been forgotten to notify, but for peace of mind, visit the nearest dealer and check in the database to make sure that the replacement has been made.
At least one of the four steering joints, knocking after 60-80 thousand km, will give a signal: it's time to change. The outer tips are sold separately, and if the inner tips are worn out, you will have to buy a pull rod assembly. It is not difficult to change the parts yourself, just do not forget to adjust the toe after. Ball bearings and silent blocks often live up to 200 thousand km, as well as stabilizer bushings. There are no stabilizer struts in the usual sense - they are replaced by bolts with rubber bushings, but they are very tenacious.
There seems to be nothing to break in the rear suspension with an elastic beam, however, silent blocks of levers may wear out by 200 thousand km. They are sold separately, inexpensive, and the work to replace is quite acceptable.
Front brake pads serve 25-35 thousand km (automatic / manual gearbox), discs - twice, and sometimes three times longer. The rear pads are enough for 80–90 thousand km, and the drums are completely “eternal” - dealers do not remember a single case of replacement due to natural wear and tear. By 100 thousand km, the rear brake cylinders begin to flow or wedge. It is worth making it a rule to change them along with the pads.
Although technically the model does not claim to be a symbol of progress, it proved to be excellent in operation and turned out to be one of the most cost-effective compared to the cars featured in this section.
HISTORY OF THE MODEL
2002 Restyling "Renault Clio Symbol" sample 1999. Having discarded the prefix "Clio", the model gained the status of the first generation of the "Symbol". In a number of markets, the car is referred to as "Renault Classic", "Renault Thalia" or "Nissan Platinum". Body: sedan. Engines (all - P4): gasoline 1.2 l, 55 kW / 75 hp; 1.4 l, 55 kW/75 hp or 72 kW/98 hp (8 or 16 valves respectively); 1.6 l, 77 kW / 105 hp; diesel with common rail injection and turbocharging, 1.5 l, 47 kW / 65 hp; 1.5 l, 62 kW/85 hp Front-wheel drive, M5 or A4 (for Russia - since 2005). Crash test according to the EuroNCAP method: 11 points for a frontal impact out of 16 possible. Bottom line: four stars.2006 Restyling, which is more appropriate to call facelift. The radiator grille, front and rear bumpers, trunk lid, instrument panel, center console, finishing materials and design of the inner sidewalls of the doors have changed. There were climate control, an on-board computer, rear electric windows, air conditioning radiator protection, soundproofing of the trunk and front shield.
2008 Second generation "Symbol" introduced. In fact, the model differs from the previous one only externally - other panels of the front, rear and sidewalls of the body, as well as glazing, bumpers and door handles. The K7J motor has been discontinued.
We thank Avtomir on Michurinsky for assistance in preparing the material.
When the starter is turned on |
POSSIBLE REASONS |
WHAT TO DO |
Signal lamps on the instrument panel do not light up, the starter does not turn on. |
The battery cable is disconnected or the terminals and cable lugs are oxidized. |
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The battery has failed. |
Replace battery. |
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The signal lamps on the instrument panel are dim, the starter rotates the engine crankshaft very slowly. |
Tips of wires of the accumulator battery are badly tightened, oxidized. |
Check the reliability of the contact of the wire lugs. If they are oxidized, clean them and tighten them. |
The battery is empty. |
Connect a healthy battery to a discharged one. |
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Starting the engine is difficult when the air humidity is high or after washing the car. |
Ignition system fault: Moisture in the ignition system. |
Dry the high voltage wires and the ignition coil. |
Starting a warm engine is difficult. |
Poor mixture formation (gas bubbles in the system). |
Let the engine cool down. |
Weak compression. |
When the starter is turned on |
POSSIBLE REASONS |
WHAT TO DO |
The engine "sneezes" but does not start, or a cold engine is difficult to start. |
The system of electronic blocking of start of the engine works. |
See chapter "Electronic engine immobilizer system". |
Erroneous actions at startup engine. Interruptions in the supply of fuel or a faulty ignition system. As a result of a strong blow, the fuel cut-off system was triggered. |
see section "Starting the engine". Do not make repeated attempts to start the engine. Contact the manufacturer's service station. Contact the manufacturer's service station. (See the chapter "Fuel cut-off system in the event of a severe vehicle impact"). |
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Vibration. |
Insufficient air pressure in tires, incorrect wheel balancing or damage to them. |
Check tire pressure; if it is correct, contact the manufacturer's service station. |
White smoke at the outlet or liquid boiling in the expansion tank. |
Mechanical damage: damaged cylinder head gasket, faulty water pump. |
Stop the engine. Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
Smoke is coming from under the hood. |
Short circuit or leak of the cooling system. |
Stop, turn off the ignition, move away from the vehicle and call the manufacturer's service station. |
in move |
POSSIBLE REASONS |
WHAT TO DO |
Oil pressure warning light on: |
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When cornering or braking |
Reduced oil level. |
Add engine oil (see "Engine Oil Level, Adding/Changing Oil", Chapter 4). |
Idle |
Low oil pressure. |
Contact the nearest service station of the manufacturer. |
It does not go out immediately or continues to burn with an increase in the engine speed. |
Insufficient oil pressure. |
Stop and contact the manufacturer's service station. |
The engine does not develop full power. |
Air filter clogged. |
Replace filter element |
Fuel system malfunction. |
Check fuel level. |
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Faulty candles, broken adjustment. |
Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
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Engine idling erratic or engine stalling |
Insufficient compression in the engine cylinders (faulty spark plugs, ignition system, air leaks). |
Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
In move |
POSSIBLE REASONS |
what to do |
Hard rotation of the steering wheel. |
Broken drive belt. Lack of oil in the power steering pump. |
Replace drive belt. Add oil to the power steering pump reservoir (see "Oil Level in the Power Steering Pump Reservoir", Chapter 4). If the problem persists, contact the manufacturer's service station. |
Power steering faulty. |
Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
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The engine gets very hot. The coolant temperature warning light is on (or the temperature gauge needle is in the red zone of the scale). |
Loose or broken water pump drive belt. Faulty engine cooling fan. |
Stop driving, stop the engine and contact the manufacturer's service station. |
Coolant leak. |
Check the condition of the hoses and tightness of the clamps. Check the expansion tank: there should be coolant in it. If it is missing, add to the normal level (after the engine has cooled down). Be careful not to burn yourself. For the final elimination of the malfunction, it is necessary to urgently contact the service station of the manufacturer. |
Radiator: when topping up a large volume of coolant, remember that you should not fill in cold liquid if the car engine is very hot. After any operation on the car that requires even partial draining of the coolant from the cooling system, it should be filled with a fresh mixture prepared in appropriate proportions. Remember: you can only use those brands of coolant that are recommended for use by the technical departments of the manufacturer.
Electrical equipment |
POSSIBLE REASONS |
WHAT TO DO |
The windshield wiper does not work. |
The wiper blades are frozen to the glass. |
Release the wiper blades before turning on the wipers. Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
The windshield wiper does not stop. |
Electrical control failure |
Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
The direction indicators flash at an increased frequency. |
The lamp has burned out. |
Refer to Headlights: Changing Bulbs or Taillights: Changing Bulbs, Chapter 5. |
The direction indicators and hazard warning lights do not work. |
Electrical circuit malfunction. |
Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
Headlights won't turn on or off. |
Faulty electrical circuit or switch. |
Contact the manufacturer's service station. |
Traces of condensation in the headlights. |
This is fine. The presence of condensation on the headlight reflectors is a natural consequence of changes in the outside air temperature. When you turn on the headlights, the condensation quickly disappears |
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Rooftop antenna installed incorrectly. |
Tilt the antenna so that its end is about 28 meters from the roof of the vehicle. |
In certain driving situations, a normally working car horn helps to avoid a traffic accident. Therefore, every driver of a Renault Symbol car ( Renault Symbol) must be aware of the most common faults in the not very complex electrical circuit of the sound signal so that they can be found and eliminated in a timely manner.
After sound signal stops working, it is necessary to check the condition of the fuse that protects this electrical circuit. To do this, you will need to open the left front door and the cover of the mounting block at the end of the front panel. Further, guided by the hint, in the form of symbols located on the back of the cover, we look for, and then we pull out and check the blue F8 (15A) fuse, which was installed on the Renault Symbol of the first years of production or the F12 (15A) fuse, which began to be installed on more later releases of this car.
If the fuse is intact, then you should remove the plastic covers of the steering column lining that close under the steering switches. This is done in order to check if the wire that supplies voltage to the horn button at the point of its connection to the contact of the left under the steering switch has broken off. If the wire breaks, it will hang freely as soon as you remove the steering column trim. To fix this problem, you will need a soldering iron and the ability to use it.
The next malfunction is related to the failure of the sound signal itself due to the ingress of water into its body. Initially, after it dries, the sound signal starts working again, but if water gets into it often enough, then due to corrosion of two spring-loaded contacts, signal stops working at all. To restore the signal, you need to remove it from the installation site, which is located behind the bumper on the left side of the car and disassemble it. Then, using sandpaper, clean these contacts.
When the sound signal is working, the bracket on which it is attached to the car body vibrates, as a result of which its fastening weakens and the “mass” disappears, which leads to the refusal to turn on the sound signal. Some owners of Renault Symbol cars, in order to get rid of these problems, reinstall the horn under the hood of the car and attach it to the battery guard.
A malfunction of the heater (heater) may be hidden by the engine cooling system. This is the only heat source that is used to heat the passenger compartment at low outside temperatures.
Search for a stove defect on Renault Simbol
The search for a possible defect in the stove begins with expansion tank cold engine. It starts when the liquid mark is maximum or minimum. After a few minutes of operation, the radiator hose leading to the thermostat is checked. It is cold to the touch until the engine warms up to operating mode.
Stove Renault Symbol
Thermostat failure
This is what the thermostat looks like
Parallel heating of the hose and motor indicates about a thermostat malfunction . This happens if the valve is stuck (jammed) open, which forces the coolant to circulate in a circular system.
In winter, the temperature of the distilled antifreeze does not reach the required degree. The interior of the car does not warm up to a comfortable level, which indicates the need to replace the thermostat.
The cooling system is also checked for leaks. To do this, the tank cap is turned off enough to release an air cushion and vapors of heated antifreeze.
The absence of the sound of escaping gases indicates a leak, that is, a lack of pressure. The situation leads to passive circulation through the heater core.
The motive is the failure of the furnace fan to enter the operating mode. This restricts (reduces) warm air flow.
The stove does not heat up - eliminating the causes with a photo
- Faulty thermostat should be replaced because this unit regulates the temperature of the engine while simultaneously controlling the flow of coolant.
Changing the thermostat
The serviceability of the fan is checked by applying voltage directly from the battery. The procedure is accompanied by the removal of the grille (right) of the air intake, disconnecting the plug and applying current to its terminals. It is desirable to restore in a car service.
- Clogged oven radiator should be removed:
Drain the antifreeze first. Fill with distilled water, driving it with an engine for 10 minutes. Drain and repeat the process until clean water appears. If there is hard scale on the walls of the tubes, it is better to replace the radiator.
We wash the radiator
- When the coolant temperature is low, topping up and bleeding the system .
Add antifreeze
- Shutter malfunction - the cause of its jamming is eliminated.
- The cabin filter is replaced if clogged.
