Can the engine smoke from the carburetor. Reasons why the engine began to smoke

Any car constantly sends exhaust gases into the atmosphere - and this is a normal situation. It's all about the amount of harmful emissions and their composition. With a properly adjusted and serviceable system, the gases from the muffler will be transparent and almost invisible (except in frosty weather). But what if the engine smokes very strongly, throwing out dense exhausts of a black or bluish hue? This means that not everything is in order with your power plant and the color of the gases will help to understand the causes of the “illness” of the car.

Causes of engine smoke

The increased release of gases from the muffler may be the result of an incorrect balance between fuel and air, not simultaneous or incomplete combustion of the mixture, oil or antifreeze getting into the engine cylinders. The main reasons why a car smokes can be summarized below:

• the occurrence of malfunctions in the fuel system;
• wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group;
• cooling system problems;
• improper functioning of the gas distribution mechanism.

Experienced car mechanics can pinpoint exactly why a car smokes a lot by examining the hue of the exhaust. And if the cause is known, then it is much easier to deal with the problem. The appearance of a bluish, white or black exhaust is often accompanied by "passing" troubles:

• Difficulty starting a cold engine.
• Unstable operation of the power unit in idle mode and under load (the tachometer needle jumps).
• Increased consumption of oil and gasoline (diesel fuel).

Here it is worth making a small digression. The fact is that some cars have a relatively high oil and fuel consumption provided by manufacturers. This applies to powerful and expensive machines. For example, a 4.7-liter Toyota 2UZ FE engine consumes 10 liters per 100 km on the highway, and all 16 in the city. At the same time, natural oil waste is 1 liter per 1000 km. Such parameters are especially striking after transplanting from economical middle-class cars.

• Loss of traction power of the vehicle.

It also happens that the smoke from the muffler pipe is the only sign of a malfunction of any part of the machine. You can more accurately diagnose a malfunction by the color of the exhaust.

transparent smoke

Inexperienced car owners sometimes take the steam coming out of the muffler for smoke and start to panic. However, this is quite normal. The liquid condenses on the exhaust pipe at low temperatures and after the engine starts, the water begins to actively evaporate, turning into steam. When the motor warms up to operating temperature, the "phenomenon" will stop. The amount of steam released is related to the humidity of the surrounding air: the higher it is, the longer the white "smoke". It is not a sign of a breakdown of the power unit, and no action is required in this case. To finally make sure that the engine is working properly and steam is coming out of the pipe, attach a clean piece of paper to the muffler pipe for a few seconds: the water will dry and leave no traces. If so, then everything is in order.

Black smoke exit

This trouble causes the most serious damage to the environmental situation and indicates serious problems in the power plant. At the same time, there is a strong smell of burnt oil or metal, sometimes it stinks of heated plastic in the cabin. Why is this happening? Probable causes when the engine smokes in this "mode":

• fuel system malfunctions: the composition of the air-fuel system is seriously unbalanced - an excessively enriched mixture enters the cylinders (a lot of gasoline or diesel fuel and little air);
• malfunctions in the electronic engine control unit (correct injection is broken);
• loss of injectors (they overflow) tightness in the injection engine;
• a drop in compression in the cylinders of the power unit: the cause is the wear of the rings, pistons as a result of long-term operation or poor-quality repairs.

These malfunctions lead to increased fuel consumption, next to the car there will be a smell of gasoline or diesel fuel. For a quick check, remove the spark plugs and evaluate them: a black coating confirms a malfunction in the ignition or fuel supply system.

Blue smoke

If it appears in a diesel or gasoline-powered car, then this indicates the penetration of oil into the cylinders. As a result, the lubricant composition burns out, forming bluish clouds of smoke, which are poorly dissipated. The blue tint can have a different intensity, which is associated with the brand of oil used, the ambient temperature. You can make sure that the lubricant is overused by measuring its level with a dipstick. A regular decrease in the amount of oil indicates its combustion or leakage. Another test is carried out using a sheet of clean paper attached to the muffler pipe with the engine running. Oily spots will only confirm the presence of a lubricant in the combustion chamber. Reasons why the engine smokes:

• breakage, wear or low quality of valve stem seals: when starting the engine on a “cold” after a long stop, the lubricant composition will burn out along with the fuel, which will immediately show smoke formation;
• occurrence of piston rings;
• - the use of a lubricant that does not meet the requirements of the manufacturer.

Blue smoke can also form with slight engine wear. After warming up, the elements of the power unit begin to expand, and the blue exhaust gradually becomes less strong, and then may disappear altogether.

White dense smoke

It differs from steam not only in its increased density. If the car smokes white smoke, then the latter will dissipate for a long time. At the same time, a burning smell is felt, which does not disappear after the engine reaches operating temperature. When starting the engine on a "hot" problem is also not solved. White smoke indicates the presence of serious problems in the cooling system: antifreeze getting into the oil. Exhaust shades depend on the type of antifreeze (coolant). Reasons for this problem:

• violation of the tightness of the cylinder head: the formation of cracks, severe deformation or burnout of the gasket;
• the use of low-quality coolant and: poor antifreeze can literally “eat through” the metal, sharply increasing corrosion, which can lead to the impossibility of restoring some parts of the cooling system.

When antifreeze and oil are mixed, the latter loses its qualities and becomes less viscous, which adversely affects the normal functioning of all power plant systems and leads to a decrease in its operational life.

What to do if white dense smoke appears

First, carefully inspect the candles: if they have scale, this indicates water has entered the cylinders. Then open the cap of the expansion tank of the cooling system: a low level of antifreeze, an oil film, a burning smell indicate a violation of the tightness of the cooling system. Next, you need to dismantle the head and check the integrity of its gasket, the presence of cracks. All restoration work must be carried out in a specialized car workshop.

Actions in the event of blue smoke

Oil penetrates into the chamber where the air-fuel mixture is prepared through a valve that has lost its tightness or “thanks to” worn piston rings and. Then you need to bore and honing the cylinders, move on to the next repair size. Sometimes (but not for long) it helps to replace the piston rings. The first option, when the amount of oil entering the cylinders exceeds all limits, implies either valves.

Sometimes whitish blue smoke is formed due to leakage of the lubricant and its contact with the exhaust manifold. Then check and, if necessary, install new gaskets and (or) the crankshaft oil seal.

Malfunctions of the engine with a turbocharger

If the machine is equipped with this unit, then the appearance of a white exhaust with a bluish tint may be due to an oil leak, which, instead of lubricating the turbine bearings, goes into the starting system. To check this, remove the turbo from a diesel or gasoline engine and see if there is oil in the air duct. If this is the case, then it is better to visit a car repair shop. When black smoke comes out of the pipe, test the tightness of the intake system. The exit of dark exhaust during regassing is especially noticeable.

Having a car has a huge number of various advantages - you can safely get to work or study without spending a huge amount of time on it, you can travel to any point on land without depending on buses, planes and other vehicles. You can always get out wherever you want, whether it's a shop, a cottage or a trip to the forest. However, it is necessary to understand that the car is not only pure pleasure. Like a pet that brings a lot of joy, a car needs to be looked after - and it can have its own problems, malfunctions and breakdowns. Naturally, at the first trifle, you can always take the car to a service station, but most motorists refuse to do this. Someone does not want to spend extra money, and someone simply believes that he must cope with all the problems of his own car on his own. It is for such people that this article was written, in which it is analyzed in detail why the engine smokes in your car. This problem is very common - the exhaust pipe constantly sends exhaust into the atmosphere, but this happens in small quantities and imperceptibly. But if you start the engine, and smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, it means that trouble has come. What to do if the engine smokes? First of all, you need to determine what the problem is. And you can do this already by the color of the smoke.

smoke color

So, if your engine smokes, then you need to either take the car for repair, or figure it out yourself. And the first step is to determine the color of the smoke coming from the motor. Most often it can be white, black and gray - naturally, each of these colors can have shades, but if you divide the smoke from the engine into main groups, then they will be just that. Also, sometimes literally transparent smoke can come out of the pipe, and this can also indicate some malfunctions, although most often there is nothing wrong with this situation. However, each of the colors of smoke will be discussed in more detail. You'll learn exactly what's wrong with your car depending on how your engine smokes, and you'll be able to figure out what you should do if you're having a problem.

transparent smoke

Many drivers are wondering why it smokes. They are wondering why smoke can come out of a gasoline engine. All these problems cause a real panic for a novice car enthusiast, but if the smoke does not come directly from your engine, which is burning before your eyes, there is no reason for it. Any malfunction can be identified and then corrected. And for starters, it’s worth looking at the most harmless moment - when you have transparent or whitish smoke coming out of your engine, which is practically invisible. In fact, this is not even smoke, but steam that forms in an unheated system. Most often this can be seen in the winter, when the engine starts after a night of inactivity. It constantly heats up, and with it the exhaust system heats up, from which steam comes out. You can make sure that this is by attaching any vessel to the exhaust pipe at any other time - condensate will form on its walls. The problem is simply that there is a lot of steam in the winter, and when water starts to drip from the exhaust pipe, many beginners start to panic and think that something terrible has happened. But in fact, everything is in order, and you have absolutely nothing to worry about. As soon as the engine and the entire exhaust system warms up, the steam will either disappear completely or be reduced to a minimum amount that you will no longer notice. As you can already understand, this case does not require any repair, however, there are other situations when you would like to know why it smokes or any other engine installed on your car. Indeed, in some cases, smoke can mean a serious problem.

Black smoke

As you could already understand, if your engine smokes, the reasons for this can be very diverse, and you yourself can install them if you analyze what color the smoke coming from the exhaust pipe is. The case with transparent smoke has already been considered, and now it's time to move on to its complete opposite - black smoke. This is a rather frightening sight, and it can be seen when, for example, a huge truck is driving on the road. Often, its exhausts are terribly black, which is why such exhausts are the most pursued in terms of environmental damage. However, what to do if black smoke comes out of your engine? In the first place, overload can be the cause - as is the case with trucks and tractors. But, given the fact that we are talking about a passenger car, this option is unlikely. Therefore, the most plausible is the problem of mixture formation. What does this mean? This means that the mixture that enters the engine contains too much of the fuel itself - and the result is not only unpleasant black smoke, but also excessive fuel consumption. So the problem most likely lies somewhere in the fuel equipment or in the engine management system. The first thing you should pay attention to is the air filter. If it is clogged, then the air supply is blocked, which leads to its shortage and, accordingly, to an excess of fuel in the final mixture. The next item is compression. You need to study your engine cylinders. If they are damaged, the combustion process will not correspond to the calculated one, resulting in a lack of power and, accordingly, an over-enrichment of fuel. Well, another common case is the incorrect operation of the engine control sensors. As a result, the systems work "blindly", which is why malfunctions appear. Most often, in this case, a light on your dashboard lights up, notifying you of the need to check the engine, but another failure may occur and the signal will not come - then you will have to check everything yourself. The easiest way to diagnose is to check the spark plugs. If black smoke from the exhaust pipe is the result, then you will find black deposits on the candles. This will mean that it's time to repair the car - it is also highly recommended to replace the candles themselves if they are covered with a coating due to the fact that your engine is smoking. The causes of black smoke should now be clear to you, so you can proceed to the analysis of the next color.

White smoke

You have already learned why the engine smokes in the cold season - transparent steam from the exhaust pipe appears when the engine and exhaust system have not had time to warm up, resulting in condensation. Now the case will be considered when steam also pours out of the exhaust pipe, but at the same time it is not transparent, does not dissipate so quickly, and warming up the engine does not solve the problem that has arisen. White smoke is the result of a malfunction in the cooling system. Depending on what kind of coolant you use, the puffs of white smoke may have different shades, but the cause will remain the same - the cooling system is not working properly. And you should not delay the repair, because, as you will understand further, this can cause serious damage to your car. So, the most common reason for the appearance of a large amount of white smoke from the exhaust pipe is the ingress of water into the cylinders of your engine. You can disassemble the cylinders and check the spark plugs to see if there is a problem. If water gets into the cylinder, then the candle will have the same coating as inside your electric kettle - in other words, scale. This is not the end of the world or a disaster - you just need to check all the cylinders, determine which ones have plaque, and then repair or replace them. And it is best to do this at a professional service station, since in most cases the cause of this malfunction is improper engine assembly, and low-quality spare parts that many motorists are trying to save on can also have their say.

Also, the cause of this malfunction may be engine overheating - in this case, you should also contact a specialist so that he not only repairs or replaces the cylinders, but also makes a complete diagnosis to identify the causes of overheating. However, the situation can actually be much less simple, it can also have a much less pleasant outcome for the driver. The fact is that liquid entering the cylinders can lead to the appearance of clouds of white smoke escaping from the exhaust pipe. But you will only get by with a lot of steam if you use high-quality coolant. If you decide to save money here and bought cheap antifreeze, then it can literally “eat” the insides of your motor due to leakage. As a result, corrosion will spread to the vital parts of your engine, and it can only be sent for recycling - such damage cannot be repaired.

So if you are wondering why the engine is smoking, then you should not do it on the go. Deal with the problem, fix it, and then keep driving your car.

Bluish (gray) smoke

If you have smoke or a gasoline engine, and the smoke has a bluish tint, then the reason lies in the fact that too much oil gets into the cylinders. As a result, the puffs of smoke are very thick and take the longest time to dissipate compared to the previous cases described. Moreover, most often they have a characteristic smell of burnt oil. It is worth paying attention to the fact that it is far from always possible to determine at first glance that this smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe at all. Considering that a wide variety of factors can influence its appearance, from the quality of engine oil to the air temperature outside, shades of blue can also be very different. And in some cases, the blueness is so faint that it's almost impossible to distinguish such smoke from standard exhausts. However, the check is extremely simple - you need to carefully monitor the oil level, since if it leaks, it will be obvious that it is overused. As for physical factors, all you need is your nose and a piece of white paper. With your nose, you can easily smell the oil in the exhaust, even if they have a completely normal color, and quite noticeable oily spots will appear on a piece of paper that must be placed next to the exhaust pipe. Well, now you've confirmed that you have engine oil problems, you know why your engine is smoking blue smoke. It's time to deal with malfunctions, which in this case can be a wide variety.

Valve stem seals

As you have already seen, if your engine smokes white smoke, then there may be several reasons for this. But in the case of a bluish tint, the causes can be numerous, so you should carefully consider each of them, as any may be relevant in your case. The most common cause of bluish smoke is damaged. These caps should hold the oil until it needs to be supplied. But due to damage to the cap, oil leaks even when it is not needed, which is why it accumulates too much. That is why, if this part is damaged, then after a long stop at the first factory, you can see a huge cloud of bluish smoke escaping from your exhaust pipe. In most cases, it all depends on the quality of the caps themselves - if it is high, then the oil will not leak even after several years of operation, and if it is low, then leaks can begin almost immediately, let alone a year or even several years. By this time, the bad cap will most likely have already fallen apart. So if you have a bluish smoke in your cold engine, then first of all you need to pay attention to the valve stem seals, because due to the lack of tightness in damaged parts, even in an unstarted engine, the “supply” of oil continues, which then burns out at the factory.

Oil scraper rings

Also, if your engine smokes blue smoke, then the problem may also lie in, or rather, in their wear or occurrence. These rings are designed to remove excess oil film, and if they fail to do their job, then, as you might guess, excess oil gets into the cylinders. Of course, the effect is not the same as with severe damage to the valve stem seals, but the oil loss is still noticeable, and the engine still continues to smoke. You can solve this problem by decoking these rings, but you should not think that this procedure will solve all your problems at once. After the decarbonization procedure, the rings begin to fully function, but you will have to monitor the activity of your engine very carefully. After all, after this procedure, the spring properties of the rings are significantly reduced, which is why their occurrence can happen much more often, especially with careless handling. As you can see, if your diesel engine smokes black smoke, finding the cause of the malfunction and fixing it is much easier than if the smoke is blue. After all, caps and rings are not all that can be faulty in a car that causes blue smoke, there are a few more cases you have to consider.

Turbine

If you have a turbocharger installed in your car, then the reason may be in it, or rather, in its malfunction. What to do in this case, if your engine smokes? VAZ is one of the cars that can be taken as an example. It has a turbocharger installed, and if it is in poor condition, the result can be thick bluish smoke, which damages the environment, leads to excessive oil consumption, as well as an unpleasant smell and an unattractive appearance. What happens inside the engine? The fact is that the bearings of the turbine are automatically lubricated with oil for its further operation, however, in the presence of malfunctions, the oil that was intended for lubrication enters the intake tract. Well, the result of excess oil during combustion is the aforementioned bluish smoke. What to do in this case?

There are not many options here - you will have to repair the turbocharger turbine. If you have the skills and the necessary tools, then you can do it yourself. However, it is still recommended to leave this to specialists who will cope with the task faster and more efficiently. But before proceeding with the repair, you need to make sure that the problem really lies in the turbine - as you already understood, there can be a lot of reasons for the appearance of smoke, and it is always worthwhile to first deal directly with the causes of the malfunction, and then correct it pointwise. To do this, you need to remove the air duct that connects the turbine and the engine and check for oil inside. If it is there, then this means that the leak actually exists, and you will have to make serious repairs. However, in this case we are talking about a rather neglected situation, which can still be prevented if you take care of your engine in advance. When you have any suspicion that there is too much oil in the turbine, then you need to take a clean cloth (it should be light and easy to pass liquid and air, gauze is best) and stretch it on the nozzle at the junction with the throttle. After that, you need to start the car and depress the gas pedal several times, then turn it off and check the fabric that you previously stretched. If there are traces of oil on it, then you already have a problem - it's just at an early stage, and it will be quite simple to solve it, at least much easier than when you already directly notice oil accumulations in the duct.

As you can see, if your diesel engine smokes black smoke, then the problem can be solved much faster, but this does not mean that its solution will be less expensive - with proper car care, regardless of the color of the smoke, you can quickly find and fix any problem.

Poor oil quality

Naturally, there are a huge number of reasons why the color of smoke from the exhaust pipe can be blue, but it makes no sense to describe them all - here you will find only the most famous and common cases. For example, in no case should you forget about the oil itself - many motorists immediately start searching inside the car, but in fact, the cause of the problem may lie in what kind of oil you pour into the engine. If it turned out to be not of the highest quality, then its properties may differ from a quality product. Accordingly, it is impossible to clearly say anything about its behavior in the engine - you need to check what kind of product you purchased, and if its quality turns out to be far from ideal, it is better to change it immediately. After all, if you continue to use it because you have already spent money on it, you can cause even more serious damage to your car.

But there is another option - a similar problem can occur when you use the highest quality oil. The reason in this case may be overheating of the oil, as a result of which it will lose its properties. Naturally, in everyday life this happens extremely rarely, because in fact, extreme conditions are necessary for oil to overheat - which is why special sensors are always installed in racers' cars to check the temperature of the oil. But if you load up your car, put your whole family in it, and go on a hot day downhill to rest, then the combination of all factors can lead to overheating of the oil and, accordingly, the loss of all its functions. In this case, nothing can be done - you just have to change the oil prematurely and try to prevent such situations from occurring again.

Other cases

No matter what the circumstances are - your engine is spewing black smoke, puffs of bluish smoke, or just a huge amount of white steam - you should never rule out the possibility that something special has happened to you. Of course, first of all, you should use this guide and check all the most common cases, since most often the problem occurs in motorists more than once. But sometimes the reasons are not the most standard - causing smoke, for example, can cause a microcrack in the engine. There are even cases when the engine smokes black or blue smoke if the driver filled the fuel tank with the wrong type of fuel that is intended for a particular engine. Remember that there is a way out of any situation, and if you cannot find it yourself, then contact the experts.

After several hours of inactivity of the car and the subsequent start of the engine, in some cases, you may notice the appearance of thick smoke from the exhaust system. Such smoke can be white, gray or black. Smoke can either disappear or be present after further warming up. It should be noted that if the engine smokes after warming up, then this indicates a definite malfunction.

By the color of the exhaust, you can more accurately diagnose a breakdown, as well as identify the severity of the problem at various stages. In certain cases, the appearance of smoke is accompanied by:

• difficult starting of a cold engine;
• unstable operation of the motor at idle and under load;
• revolutions on the tachometer can float;
• there is an increased consumption of fuel and engine oil;
• the engine loses power, etc.

There are also situations when the smoke of a cold or hot engine is the only sign of a malfunction of the power unit.

Read in this article

Causes of engine smoke

In the list of the main malfunctions that cause increased smoke generation, there are:

1. problems with the fuel supply system;
2. wear of the cylinder-piston group;
3. malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism;
4. malfunctions of the engine cooling system;

The appearance of smoke can be caused by incomplete combustion of the fuel-air mixture, malfunctions in the combustion process, coolant from the cooling system or from the lubrication system into the combustion chamber. These faults are capable of painting exhaust gases in a certain color.

Additionally, it should be borne in mind that malfunctions of one system can lead to incorrect operation of other nodes and elements.

As an example, consider the inefficient operation of the engine cooling system. Insufficient cooling leads to overheating of the engine and the destruction of the piston rings. O-ring problems mean that oil starts to get into the cylinders and the engine smokes.

Engine emits white smoke

White smoke during warm-up is often just steam that condenses in the exhaust system. Steam will be visible until the exhaust heats up. You can also see drops of water at the end of the pipe. If the outside temperature is low, then steam will be visible even after the engine has warmed up and reached operating temperature. The density of such smoke is additionally influenced by air humidity. If the humidity is high, then there will be more smoke.

The appearance of a thick cloud of white smoke in the warm season after the internal combustion engine has warmed up often indicates that it enters the cylinders. A common cause of sudden white fumes is the previous overheating of the engine. Water is a component that is present in the composition of the coolant. It turns out that part of the water does not have time to evaporate in the combustion chamber. The ingress of coolant can occur as a result of the destruction of the gasket or cracks in the places where the channels of the cooling jacket pass through which the coolant moves.

White smoke is a vapor that dissipates easily into the air. To check the exhaust pipe, you can attach a sheet of clean paper. The water will gradually dry on the sheet, leaving no distinct greasy spots.

The next step in the diagnosis will be to check the cooling system for exhaust gases. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the radiator cap or the cap of the expansion tank with the engine turned off. If the smell of exhaust is felt, there is an oil film in the liquid itself and the liquid level is low, then the malfunction is obvious. Starting the engine in this case will lead to a significant increase in pressure and an increase in the coolant level in the tank. Also in the tank you can observe gas bubbles and even seething.

The subsequent stop of the engine will lead to the fact that the level will drop and the coolant will partially go into the cylinder. From the cylinder, fluid seeps through the piston rings, ends up in the oil pan, mixing with the lubricant and diluting the engine oil. It turns out a kind of emulsion, the color of the oil changes and the lubricant becomes cloudy.

The ingress of coolant into the lubrication system is diagnosed by analyzing the cylinder head cover and oil filler cap. A light foam appears on the inside of the lid, which has a yellowish tint. Also, the presence of emulsion in the oil can be seen on the dipstick.

A large amount of coolant in the lubrication system will indicate a serious crack or burnout. In some cases, fluid can accumulate in the space above the piston, which makes it difficult to start the engine. Separately, it should be added that in such a situation there is also a high risk of water hammer. With minor coolant leaks, the emulsion on the cap may be present, while other signs will not be immediately noticeable.

Troubleshooting

You can more accurately determine the problem cylinder in the following ways:

• Remove the spark plugs and check their condition. The coolant has the property of "washing out" the spark plug in the faulty cylinder.
• Align the crankshaft so that the intake and exhaust valves are closed. Next, you need to supply compressed air through the candle hole, and then look into the expansion tank. An increase in the coolant level as a result of air supply will directly indicate a faulty cylinder.
• Remove the cylinder head to inspect the gasket and the adjacent surface of the head. If no defects are found, then the tightness of the head is checked under pressure;
• Perform cylinder diagnostics. To do this, the piston must be lowered to the BDC and the walls checked for cracks;
• Check intake manifold gasket. This is done if, in a particular internal combustion engine, such a gasket structurally serves to seal the coolant circulation channels.

Engine emits blue smoke

The engine begins to smoke blue or gray smoke if an excess amount of engine oil enters the cylinders. Such smoke may be blue, blue or have similar shades. Engine oil smoke is thicker. If you bring paper to the exhaust pipe, then greasy stains will remain on it.

The first sign that will indicate the cause of smoking is a significant overspending of oil (from 0.5 liters of oil per 1 thousand kilometers). In some cases, it is difficult to identify the problem only by the color of the exhaust. Diagnostics is complicated by the presence of a catalyst that cleans the exhaust gases.

Breakdown detection

Oil enters the combustion chamber both through the piston rings and through leaks between the valve stem and its guide sleeve. The first is wear and tear. The list of possible problems includes:

• worn out compression and oil scraper rings;
• the development of grooves of the rings in the piston itself;
• change in the shape of the cylinder walls, wear of the walls;
• the presence of scoring on the walls of the cylinders;

The wear of the CPG elements often coincides with the fact that the compression in the engine decreases. It is also possible to increase the pressure of crankcase gases. It should be added that in case of slight wear of parts, the engine will smoke blue smoke only when it is “cold”. With the heating of the motor and the thermal expansion of the parts, the gaps between the parts in the cylinder can become relatively normal. As a result, the motor smokes less noticeably or the smoke disappears completely. If the wear of the CPG is significant, then as the engine warms up, it will smoke more strongly, as the heated oil liquefies and enters the combustion chamber more actively. The thermal expansion of parts with heavy wear can no longer compensate for the increased gaps.

The appearance of black smoke indicates that the engine is running on a too rich air-fuel mixture. The color of the smoke can be from dark gray to black. This shade of the exhaust is given by soot particles, which appear due to violations in the efficiency of fuel combustion. If the engine smokes black exhaust, then problems with the fuel supply system are likely.

Such a malfunction has a number of direct and indirect signs:

• difficult start of the internal combustion engine;
• increased fuel consumption;
• power loss;
• failure of the catalyst, etc.;

Possible reasons

Use of anti-wear, anti-smoke and other additives to reduce oil consumption. Pros and cons after applying the additive to the engine.

Blue diesel exhaust, malfunctions and causes of blue diesel exhaust. Wear of the cylinder-piston group, compression, diesel fuel supply.

Newbie drivers often look for the answer to the question of why the VAZ smokes. There are several reasons that can cause copious emission of thick smoke-like vapor. But there are also breakdowns that are accompanied by smoke. What to do when the car began to smoke?

VAZ cars have many different problems, including the frequent presence of exhaust system and engine malfunctions. Most malfunctions of the ignition system, exhaust system and engine assembly are accompanied by smoke. This happens for a variety of reasons. First you need to sort out all the options when you should not worry about the integrity of any of the systems.

Here is the first and main one: the engine starts, the abundant release of white smoke from the exhaust pipe begins.

This is quite normal. The white color of the vaporous substance indicates that the mechanisms of the car began to work with a large temperature difference between cold parts and the environment. This usually happens after a long period of inactivity. When the engine starts, all internal systems immediately heat up, while steam, which is usually not visible, is released in huge quantities due to a sharp change in temperature. Many beginners may be intimidated by the large cloud that forms from the exhaust after starting the engine.

But this does not portend trouble if an increase in fuel, oil or cooling fluid consumption has not been noticed. Particularly thick vaporization occurs after cold winters and long machine downtime without work.

White vapor is not dangerous, so there is no cause for concern.

blue smoke

Smoke of any other color is a sign of a rather serious breakdown. One of the signs of damage is bluish smoke that appears after starting the engine. It can have all shades of color up to dark blue, which will mean extensive damage to the car's piston system. If bluish smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, some part of the cylinder is broken. Why is this happening?

Oil must flow into the cylinders to lubricate the mechanisms, partially cool them and improve their working condition. Normally, oil cannot get into other components, but if any part of the piston or oil distribution system has been damaged, it will leak into the engine chamber. The coolant washes away the oil, taking it with it into the cooling system, where it evaporates into the exhaust ducts. Because of this, the smoke gets a bluish color. The color will depend on the intensity of the engine - from transparent blue, almost white to almost blue.

Gas formation of this color is accompanied by a strong consumption of oil. The solution to the problem is to check the lubrication system of the pistons, valve stem seals or change the oil to another brand.

Such smoke in the VAZ-2105 can also appear from the side of the carburetor, not only in the exhaust. It can also be due to a long period of inactivity of the car or damage to the system. If the color of the smoke changes over time, then there is no need to worry, the leak goes away after the parts warm up.

Black smoke

One of the most dangerous types of breakdowns are engine and fuel system malfunctions, which are accompanied by black smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Here are other signs that may appear with this:

1. Fuel consumption increases significantly, the smoke is very thick and dark, therefore quite toxic.
2. The engine is unstable, sometimes stalls.
3. There is a loss of engine power.
4. The engine starts very badly.

Why is this happening? For VAZ, this malfunction is characteristic due to the presence of a carburetor. A faulty needle valve causes overflow in the float chamber. This problem also happens when the air jets are clogged. It is worth cleaning them and replacing parts, adjusting the fuel supply system or the entire engine.

Other sources of smoke

There are a number of other problems that cause smoke on the engine side:

1. Cooling system failure. Parts overheat and partially burn, smoke is emitted.
2. Breakdown of the fuel supply system. In addition, the fuel may not burn completely, resulting in exhaust gases of a different color.
3. Coolant or oil enters the engine cylinders due to damage in them.

It is impossible to list all the possible problems that may cause smoke to be emitted from the machine. Basically, replacing parts, oil or fuel is enough to fix the problem, but sometimes the cause of the breakdown cannot be found out on your own.

In this case, the only option is a trip to a car service for comprehensive diagnostics and repairs.

By the color of the exhaust, you can roughly determine the malfunction of the engine. Of course, only service station masters can make an accurate diagnosis. But you will determine the direction of the search for a breakdown yourself.

The material was prepared by the specialists of the site Skrutit-speedometr.ru, here you can professionally wind the speedometer on your car without any traces of interference and with a guarantee.

Why does a gasoline engine smoke?

The gas exhaust system is designed for certain parameters of the fuel mixture and the technology of its combustion. If everything is in order with this, the exhaust is cleaned in the normal mode, and it practically does not stink, at positive temperatures the smoke is almost not noticeable.

When any of their ecological systems in modern engines fails, a whole bunch of harmful substances enter the atmosphere. The process is accompanied by a change in the color and smell of the exhaust gases.

Such systems and elements include:

❶   Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Its operation does not affect the color of the exhaust. When broken, the smell will change slightly, and the level of nitric oxide and CO will increase.

❷  Catalysts. Most often they are not the cause of the discoloration of the exhaust, but the "victim". A broken catalytic converter causes a strong smell to come out of the exhaust pipe.

How does the engine smoke?

You can observe the following phenomena:

☛  Transparent smoke like steam(as from a kettle in the kitchen). Actually, this is water vapor. Partially formed during the combustion of fuel (school chemistry), partially they are carbon monoxide converted into steam (merit of a catalyst). Smoke is noticeable in cold weather and a cold engine. Accompanied by water condensate (drops from the muffler). This exhaust is not a cause for concern.

☛  Engine smoked black. If it is a diesel, look for a problem in the particulate filter. The gasoline engine has its own nuances. More precisely, there is only one reason - a rich mixture or the presence of fuel in the exhaust gases. Why is this happening? Perhaps the injector valves are not holding. Excess fuel enters the cylinders, which burns out in the exhaust system.

Important! Such a failure is quickly.

Also, poor compression (valves or compression rings) can be the culprit. As a result, the efficiency of the power plant decreases, the ECU enriches the mixture. Another possible cause is a clogged fuel fine filter. Again, the computer "sees" the problem and delivers more gas to the cylinders than it needs. Black smoke can also be caused by a clogged air filter. The lack of oxygen enriches the mixture, and the fuel burns out again in the muffler. And, finally, incorrect operation of sensors (for example, lambda probes). Receiving erroneous data, the ECU generates the wrong composition of the fuel mixture.

Indirect signs of all these malfunctions are soot on candles.

☛   (as on old motorcycles, in which the two-stroke engine ran on a mixture of gasoline and oil). The reason is the ingress of lubricants into the combustion chamber through oil scraper rings or caps. Indirect signs - high oil consumption "for waste".

If the engine smokes, how to understand rings or caps?

☛  If the engine smokes when starting, and as it warms up, the exhaust returns to normal, the valve stem seals on the valve necks have hardened. As the material warms up, it softens and the problem goes away.

☛  Constant blue smoke it happens if the oil scraper rings are stuck or broken. Oil enters the combustion chamber, its combustion products come out with blue smoke.

☛  After replacing rings(including compression ones) blue smoke may go until the elements of the piston group are lapped. After the break-in, the symptoms disappear.

A separate problem, why does the engine smoke with white smoke and stink?

This is a symptom of a more serious problem. The reason for the white exhaust is the coolant in the cylinders. Could be a blown head gasket. Coolant gets into the crankcase and cylinders (hence the pungent smell of antifreeze). Also, white smoke with a pungent odor comes if there is a crack in the cooling jacket of the cylinder block.

Not only is the coolant in the combustion chamber bad, but the antifreeze also leaks.

If the engine smokes, what should the owner do?

First of all, check the levels of technical fluids: oil and coolant. By indirect signs, you will determine the probable breakdown. Having assessed your capabilities (service station or your own garage), purchase consumables (gaskets, rings, caps, filters) and prepare the car for repair.

If a malfunction caught you on the highway, move to the place of repair at low speeds, periodically checking the oil and coolant levels.

On our roads you can meet cars in which literally pours out of the exhaust pipe
smoke. In some cases, this is a symptom of a serious engine problem. Moreover, both gasoline units and diesel engines are subject to this. Experienced motorists are already able to diagnose the car by the color and nature of the exhaust. However, in some cases
smoke of the same color has different causes. Why did the engine start to smoke heavily?
What could be the reasons? Let's try to figure it out.

Exhaust color troubleshooting

First of all, it is necessary to fix all the accompanying circumstances, whether it is a deterioration in dynamics, increased fuel consumption, a large waste of oil, and others. Together with the color of the smoke, they can give a more or less clear picture of the malfunction.
The color of exhaust gases from a "sick" engine is:

1. White;
2. Blue;
3. Black.

White smoke

In this case, it is important to distinguish the smoke itself from the usual white vapor that does not promise any trouble. Such steam appears in perfectly serviceable cars at low ambient temperatures. The fact is that water vapor is always inevitably present in the exhaust. They enter the cold exhaust system, condense and become visible, and even droplets of water appear on the exhaust pipe. As it warms up, the degree of condensation decreases and the steam becomes less. In colder weather, the white vapor is stronger. In no case should you be afraid of this.
In a situation where the weather outside is not very cold, and the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, but the exhaust comes out of the pipe with white steam, the coolant that has entered the cylinders is most often to blame. This happens when the head gasket is leaking. This fluid contributes to the formation of exhaust with a thick white vapor and a pungent odor. In order to make sure that the diagnosis is correct, you can resort to a simple old-fashioned method. It is necessary for some time to close the hole in the exhaust pipe with a sheet of plain paper. Drops form on it. Then, you should wait until they dry. Water droplets without oil will evaporate and leave no greasy marks. In addition to a leaky gasket, a crack in the block head can also be to blame for the ingress of coolant into the cylinders. There are times when fluid enters the cylinder through the intake system, in particular, through a leaky intake manifold gasket. It must be understood that both a gasoline engine and a diesel engine can have such troubles.
All malfunctions that are associated with white exhaust require immediate elimination. Moreover, it is necessary to eliminate not only direct causes, but also possible malfunctions in the cooling system. Quite often, direct causes are generated by engine overheating. In this case, it is necessary to check the operation of the thermostat, the fan and the sensor for turning it on, the tightness of the radiator, the plug of the expansion tank and the hoses of the cooling system.

blue smoke

Why did the engine start to smoke a lot of blue exhaust? This question often worries owners of new cars. If bluish smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe, this indicates that engine oil has entered the engine cylinders. The color itself can have shades from slightly blue to deep blue, and sometimes white-blue. This smoke, unlike steam, slowly disappears into the air. If you carry out the old-fashioned test mentioned above with paper, then greasy drops will definitely remain on it. A motor that smokes heavily with such smoke inevitably consumes a lot of oil. Often, oil consumption increases so much that more than a liter is required per hundred kilometers.
The main reason for the appearance of blue smoke is the high wear of the cylinder-piston group. In this case, oil enters the cylinders through the piston rings or through gaps between the valve stems and guide bushings. Most often, cylinders have the most wear at the point where the top ring stops when the piston is at top dead center. The cylinder takes the form of an oval. This greatly impairs the operation of the rings. Although there are other situations. For example, after a long parking of the machine, corrosion can form on the cylinders and rings. Perhaps it will be cleaned off, and the details will run in again, but this will take quite a long time.
If a diesel engine smokes like this, it means that the diesel does not completely burn out in the cylinders, but evaporates in the exhaust system, which is under high temperature. In this case, malfunctions in the equipment that is responsible for fuel injection are likely. A malfunction of one of the cylinders or a breakdown of the injection pump is also likely. If the diesel smokes blue when warmed up, then the channel candles are most likely faulty or the compression in the cylinders is very low.

Black smoke

It is they who smoke the engine with a re-enriched air-fuel mixture. This indicates a malfunction in the fuel supply system. At the same time, particles of soot are noticeable in the exhaust, which remains due to incomplete combustion of the combustible mixture. Along with black smoke comes high fuel consumption, high toxicity, unstable engine operation, loss of power and starting problems. On modern injection vehicles, the re-enrichment of the air-fuel mixture occurs due to the breakdown of various sensors or leaks in the injectors.
Quite often, a diesel engine smokes like this. The reasons may be different. Possibly poor quality diesel is being used. In addition, the air filter is likely to be very dirty. Wear of injectors, a faulty speed controller in the fuel pump, and failure of the high-pressure fuel pump are also possible. In particular, for high-pressure fuel pumps, the constant presence of lubricant, which contains a diesel engine, is necessary. However, our gas stations do not always offer high quality diesel. This leads to a breakdown of the high-pressure fuel pump before the allotted time.

Conclusion

To understand why the engine smokes, find out the reasons and find ways to eliminate them with proper experience, a motorist can do it himself. But if there is no confidence in your knowledge and strength, it is better to turn to highly qualified specialists.

When you start the engine on a cold, thick smoke often comes out of the exhaust system. Smoke can have different shades from white to blue and even black. The smoke stops after the engine warms up, and may continue afterwards.

If a warm engine smokes, this means that the power unit has specific malfunctions. The color of the exhaust gases indicates the stage of development of the breakdown and its severity.

A brief description of the symptoms accompanying the exit of smoke

In some cases, smoking may be accompanied by the following symptoms:

• difficulty starting a cold engine;
• unstable operation of the motor both at idle and under load;
• inconstancy of tachometer readings (revs float);
• boost and engine oil;
• power loss of the power unit.

There are often situations in which engine smoke is the only alarm signal.

The device of the car is designed for a constant, unobtrusive release by the system of exhausting the atmosphere of exhaust gases in specified volumes. But if, when starting the engine, smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe in large quantities, it is urgent to look for the cause of the alarming symptom that has appeared.

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the color, shades and density of the smoke coming from the engine. The most common are the following colors of the emitted gases:

1. White.
2. Black.
3. Bluish gray.

Each of the listed smoke colors can have different shades, but it is this division into groups that is the main one.

Causes of engine smoke

Why, car owners are often interested in this. The main malfunctions that cause increased smoke output from the exhaust pipe:

• damage in the fuel supply system;
• wear of parts included in the cylinder-piston group;
• violations in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism;
• problems in the cooling system.

Smoke can appear when there is a violation of the quantitative air-fuel balance, uneven mixing and incomplete combustion of the air-fuel mixture, failures that occur when coolants or lubricants enter the combustion chambers.

Each of the reasons described can affect the shade of the ejected smoke cloud.

An experienced master is able to take into account the influence of defects in one system on the incorrect operation of other components of the power unit. For example, malfunctions in the cooling system lead to overheating of engine components. Under the influence of ultra-high temperatures, the piston rings are destroyed, the tightness is broken, oil and coolant penetrate the cylinders, burn out, forming smoke of a certain color.

After the capital, as a rule, the smoking of the motor stops.

Clear smoke from the exhaust

The steam coming out of the engine can be mistaken for white smoke. Steam is generated by the evaporation of accumulated fluid in cooled engine systems. Most often, the accumulation of liquid at the end of the exhaust pipe and the release of steam are observed in the cold season after starting the engine.

Elements of the engine and exhaust system heat up, water evaporates intensively. After the engine and exhaust system are fully warmed up, the amount of steam is reduced to a minimum or disappears altogether.

The amount of steam that comes out depends on the humidity in the environment, the higher they are, the longer its traces will be visible. The release of steam is not a sign of a breakdown of engine parts and assemblies; if this effect occurs, repairs are not required.

Black smoke exit

The greatest damage to the environment is caused by puffs of black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe of a car or directly from the power unit. The most likely causes of such smoke lie in the following violations:

• malfunctions of the engine management system;
• disorder of adjustments in the fuel equipment;
• decrease.

An imbalance between the amount of components of the air-fuel mixture in the direction of increasing fuel causes not only the formation of black smoke, but also significantly increases fuel consumption. Failure of the normal mixture formation process may be caused by a dirty air filter. The lack of air entails an excess of fuel in the preparation of the air-fuel mixture.

A decrease in the compression level can be caused by mechanical damage to the cylinders, which significantly reduces the power of the power unit and contributes to an increase in the concentration of fuel in the mixture.

For accelerated diagnostics, it is necessary to examine the condition of the spark plugs. A black coating indicates that it became necessary to replace the candles with new samples, followed by the repair of deformed elements and the regulation of power unit systems.

Appearance of white smoke

A smoking engine with white gas does not always release harmless water vapor. White smoke is distinguished from steam by the following features:

1. increased density of smoke;
2. long dispersion;
3. the presence of a persistent smell of burning;
4. does not disappear when the engine warms up.

White thick smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe of the car indicates a malfunction in the cooling system. The variety of shades of white smoke depends on the type of coolants used, but in any case, with such exhausts, it is necessary to urgently repair the engine cooling system.

Incorrect operation of the elements of the cooling system can lead to serious disruptions in the functioning of the power unit as a whole.

Causes of white smoke:

• cracks in the cylinder head (cylinder head);

• the ingress of coolant into the cavity of the engine cylinder;
• motor overheating;
• use of low quality coolant.

If the cylinder head is leaking, the coolant penetrates into the cylinders, into the crankcase of the engine sump. When lubricants are diluted with antifreeze or antifreeze, the viscosity of the oil decreases, which significantly affects its functions.

What to do if white dense smoke is detected

When disassembling the cylinders, it is necessary to analyze the condition of the candles. The formation of scale on candles indicates the ingress of water. After examining all cylinders and glow plugs located in them, it is necessary to repair or replace the cylinders and candles. These activities are recommended to be carried out with the help of qualified craftsmen at the nearest service station.

Often, low-quality coolants in contact with the working elements of the engine cause increased corrosion of the components and parts of the power unit. Cheap grades of antifreeze can literally corrode the internal parts of the engine in the event of leaks. After such an impact, it is not possible to repair damaged parts.

To make sure that coolant enters the combustion chamber, you must remove the cap from the expansion tank. A sharp smell of burning, a decrease in the level of antifreeze in the tank, a floating oil film indicate the identification of this defect.

Smoke with a bluish (gray) tint

If a diesel or gasoline engine smokes heavily with blue gas, then this means that engine oil is leaking into one or more cylinders. During combustion, thick clouds of smoke are formed, which have a persistent smell of burnt oil and do not dissipate for a long time.

Depending on the type of engine oil used, the ambient temperature conditions, the color of the smoke may have a different intensity of blueness. To give a more accurate assessment of the nature of the smoke coming out and to distinguish it from standard exhaust, it is necessary to check the oil level regularly. Excessive consumption of machine lubricant indicates the presence of leaks.

In addition to visual analysis of the color of the exhaust gases, a check is made using paper attached to the exhaust pipe. If distinct oily spots remain on the sheet, then the reason for the bluish smoke exiting the chimney becomes clear: the presence of oil in the combustion chamber.

Description of the causes of white smoke with a blue tint

Why does the engine smoke with white gas with a gray or blue tint? When studying the origin of a bluish or blue exhaust, the following reasons are most often called:

1. Damaged valve stem seals.
2. The occurrence of rings designed to remove residual oil from the cylinder walls.
3. Turbocharger failure.
4. The oil used is of poor quality.

The purpose of the caps is to hold the oil before it is dispensed. Poor quality and malfunction of these elements lead to loss of tightness, grease constantly leaks and accumulates in the cylinders. It is worth starting a cold engine after a long break, the accumulated oil will burn out along with the fuel in the chamber, blue or blue smoke will escape from the exhaust pipe of the car in a huge cloud.

The wear and tear of the oil scraper rings leads to the ingress of an excess amount of lubricant into the engine cylinders and subsequent combustion. The use of the ring decarbonization method temporarily solves the problem, but at the same time the rings lose their elasticity, and the bedding can resume. To avoid serious damage to the power unit, it is necessary to constantly monitor the color of the exhaust gases.

With little wear of the engine elements, a short-term release of blue smoke is observed during cold operation. As the motor heats up, the parts expand as a result of an increase in their temperature, which favorably affects the gaps between the mating surfaces of the elements. The smoke output is reduced or completely disappears.

Turbocharger and causes of blue smoke

If the car is equipped with a turbocharger, then the output of thick bluish smoke may be due to its unsatisfactory condition. As a result of a malfunction of this unit, engine oil is leaking, designed to lubricate the bearings of the turbine. Lubricant penetrates into the starting system of the motor.

During the combustion of turbocharger oil, thick bluish smoke is formed, causing irreparable harm to the atmosphere.

To diagnose the turbine, you must perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the turbine from the engine.
2. Check for oil accumulation inside the air duct.

The accumulation of a large amount of oil in the air duct and turbine is a serious defect. If such a situation is detected, it is necessary to immediately seek qualified assistance from the service center.

The influence of the quality of the oil used on smoke generation

Engine oil must have certain characteristics. The quality of the lubricant used directly depends on its properties. If the car engine contains low-quality oil, the viscosity coefficient of which does not match the brand of the car, or when the temperature inside the engine rises, a sharp loss of the useful properties of the lubricant occurs, this leads to serious damage to the elements and systems of the power unit. If blue smoke appears, check the oil for compliance and, if necessary, replace it completely.

The appearance of smoke can be caused by a number of other reasons - from the appearance of microcracks in the engine housing to the use of an inappropriate type of fuel intended for this brand of engine. Each specific situation always has a solution when seeking help from qualified specialists.

So, I will tell you about the reasons why the car smokes. But first I’ll tell you what happened in my case, and later on in general about common possible problems, there are a lot of standard articles on the Internet!

My car, viburnum 1.4 16 valve, smoked blue smoke, and when it just started, you sharply give gas. After a while (a couple of minutes) the smoke passed. And sometimes it smoked at a traffic light when it gasped sharply.

The problem with blue smoke is when oil gets into the fuel and burns - that's how blue smoke is produced.

In my case, the situation was pretty scary… They made the head of the engine, changed the oil, removable caps, exhaust valves, piston and rings. All this turned out to be quite expensive ... Who cares about the prices: the rings from the piston to the viburnum 1.4 are special, not killed and seem to be German and it is very difficult to get them ... I got them for 7000r. Head repair 5000r. Well, plus the little things ... It cost me so, because. my family's car service. After that, my machine stopped smoking completely and now it flies, well, or almost ... I haven’t done everything on it yet ...

Now for the possible reasons:

Why does the car smoke blue smoke (color).

The main reason for the appearance of blue or gray smoke is the combustion of oil, which means that oil enters the engine cylinders. So, if there is blue smoke, it means that your machine decently eats oil! Check his level! Oil can enter through the gaps of the piston, rings, between the valve stem and guide bushings.

The main reason for the appearance of such a haze is the wear of the piston, rings and cylinders. Often in this case there is a loss of compression! Here you have to be very careful, because. there are times when there is no loss of compression and it is difficult to determine the cause of blue smoke.

If it smokes only on a cold one, it means that the wear is not great and there is little oil ... Here you can wait a little with replacing the piston and climb into the head of the car. The reason may be too thin oil! Or there was not much wear on the engine. In order to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber in such cases, try replacing the oil with a thick one. Also try using additives that keep oil from entering the combustion chamber at small gaps.

If the wear is small, blue smoke appears on a cold start and disappears after a while.

If the wear is excessive, blue smoke may only appear on a warm engine or increase along with an increase in warm-up.

Blue smoke and oil consumption very often also appear when one of the cylinders is turned off due to an ignition malfunction (for example, if the ignition coil burned out) or if the valves are not tight. Also, candles will have black soot and possibly with growths!

When starting a car in the cold season, you can often see smoky clouds coming out of the exhaust pipe. Smoke is white, bluish and even black. When the engine reaches operating temperature, smoke exhaust may disappear, sometimes it remains even after warming up.

It is known that a serviceable gasoline engine running on high-quality gasoline will not produce visible exhaust. Diesel gives a barely visible dark smoke. But at low temperatures, all types of engines will smoke, regardless of condition. This is due to the fact that during the combustion of fuel, quite a lot of water vapor is formed, which condenses in winter, creating a whitish cloud around the exhaust pipe.

It is important to know that if the engine continues to smoke even after warming up, it is faulty. By the color of the smoke, you can first understand the state of the power unit and quickly identify the problem that has arisen even without in-depth diagnostics.

What problems can there be with the motor if there is smoke

If the engine smokes excessively, as a rule, this is accompanied by other problems, including:

• difficult;
• floating idle;
• unstable operation under load or at idle;
• an increase in the consumption of gasoline or diesel fuel;

To determine what exactly happened to the motor, you need to carefully look at the smoke, determine its color and density by eye. The exhaust comes in various colors and shades - whitish, black or dirty gray, gray.

Possible causes of smoke

The appearance of excessive smoke is a harbinger of more serious problems that can worsen engine performance up to failure. There are such breakdowns, a symptom of which is noticeable smoke:

1. Violation of the adjustment or malfunction of the fuel supply system, carburetor, injector, fuel filters.
2. and pistons, leading to loss of compression.
3. Problems with the adjustment of the gas distribution system.
4. Deterioration or failure of the engine cooling system.

White smoke from the exhaust

Excess water vapor gives the whitish tint to the exhaust. It often appears when the car warms up, because during idle time it condenses in the exhaust system and actively leaves it, forming a cloud during condensation. At low temperatures, it continues to come out even after the engine has warmed up. The intensity of white smoke increases with increased humidity.

In cases where white smoke is visible in warm weather, this is a signal that there are problems with the cooling system and antifreeze enters the engine cylinders. To verify this fact, with the engine running, you need to look into the expansion tank with coolant. Seething in it will say that it is in the cylinder block or the block head itself, in which a crack has appeared.

Another possible reason is a crack right in the cylinder. To determine where the problem is, you need to turn off the engine and unscrew the candles. In those cylinders where the candles look like new, antifreeze gets in and further diagnostics are carried out by other methods.

Video: White smoke from a muffler, troubleshooting method

Fault definition

If white smoke has gone, you can determine the problem yourself. To do this, you need to do several operations:

1. Check the appearance of the candles by unscrewing them from the side. Antifreeze or antifreeze washes the candle when it enters the cylinder, and it looks better than working.
2. Rotate the crankshaft until both valves are closed. After that, the candle is unscrewed from the cylinder and air is supplied under pressure through the candle hole. If at the same time the coolant in the tank rises, then there are problems in its integrity and functionality.
3. and check the integrity of the gasket visually. If there are no problems with this, it is required to check the condition of the head of the block assembly under pressure, it may warp, sometimes cracks appear in the metal.
4. Check the condition of the cylinders. To do this, the piston is lowered to bottom dead center and the cylinder walls are checked for cracks.

It happens that when the engine is running, there is no seething in the tank, and the engine is running with white smoke. Often this indicates a depressurization of the gasket in the intake manifold on a carburetor engine. On machines with direct injection, this problem indicates a breakdown in the throttle heating system. White smoke from a diesel engine in the absence of seething in the tank indicates that the block head is damaged.

With any of these breakdowns, the coolant level will necessarily decrease, as it seeps into the cylinders, passes through the piston rings and ends up in the sump. This dilutes the oil, which is another negative factor for any engine. One of the signs of this problem is the formation of an emulsion and clouding of the oil.

To understand whether water or antifreeze has entered the engine lubrication system, you need to carefully examine the cylinder head and the oil filler plug. On parts in contact with oil, a light yellowish foam appears. Turbidity of the oil can also be seen on the dipstick, which is recommended to be inspected regularly.

A rapid drop in the coolant level indicates serious damage - or a crack. It often accumulates in the cylinders above the pistons, which makes it difficult to start the engine, while significantly increasing the risk of destructive water hammer. With a slight leak, the problem can only be determined by the presence of an emulsion, there will be no other symptoms for some time, but this does not mean that they will not appear soon.

Blue smoke from the exhaust system

The appearance of blue smoke indicates that the oil burns out in the cylinders. Sometimes the shade of smoke is bluish or bluish, while it has a sharp characteristic smell of burnt oil. In this case, a thick cloud is formed, bringing an ordinary sheet of paper to the exhaust pipe, you can make sure that greasy traces remain on it.

Something else useful for you:

One of the main signs that burning oil is the cause of the bluish smoky cloud is its high consumption, reaching 500 ml per 1000 km. At the same time, it is almost impossible to make a final diagnosis only by the shade and intensity of the exhaust.

In gasoline atmospheric engines, oil seeps into the cylinders through valve seals, or piston oil scraper rings.

The condition of the engine is checked in this way: it is started, warmed up at idle to operating temperature. After that, you need to sharply press the gas, bringing it up to 4 thousand revolutions. If the gray smoke starts to fly out immediately after pressing the accelerator pedal, and disappears after half a minute, the problem lies in the oil seals. The cause of the problem is that at idle, the pressure in the intake manifold decreases, as a result of which oil accumulates in it, escaping through the oil seals that pass it. When you press the gas pedal, the throttle opens, the pressure rises and the oil is squeezed out into the combustion chambers. After that, the situation returns to normal and the exhaust becomes almost transparent.

In cases where the intensity of the smoke is proportional to pressing the accelerator - the higher the speed, the greater the amount of smoke, with a high degree of probability we can say that the oil scraper rings have fallen on the pistons and failed.

With little wear of the engine parts, blue smoke appears only during a cold start, after reaching the operating temperature, the elements expand and everything returns to normal, the exhaust becomes almost transparent again. If the piston system is worn out badly, then after warming up, the intensity of the blue smoke only increases. This is due to the fact that the viscosity of hot oil decreases, and it enters the cylinders more actively, and expansion during heating cannot remove the resulting gaps.

black exhaust

The presence of black or dark gray smoke indicates that the air-fuel mixture entering the combustion chambers is excessively enriched. The dark shade of the exhaust indicates that it contains a high proportion of soot, which is formed when the combustion mode of the fuel mixture is violated. The main reason leading to this effect is problems with the fuel supply system.

Gasoline carburetor engines give out black smoke when the fuel in the float chamber overflows. The problem is solved by cleaning the jet system to facilitate the air supply to increase its proportion in the mixture and adjusting the needle valve.

Violation of the proportions of the mixture in the direction of increasing the proportion of fuel in most often lies in the failure of the electronics. The second reason is the depressurization of the fuel injection nozzles if they overflow and it does not completely burn out.

Excess fuel washes away the oil film from the walls of the combustion chamber, which leads to accelerated wear. In addition, it enters the sump, diluting the oil and degrading its performance.

One of the main signs that the fuel has gone into the oil is its persistent smell, which can be heard even in the cabin. If the problem is serious, a significant increase in the level of oil diluted with fuel will be noticeable on the dipstick.

Seal

Oil consumption largely depends on its viscosity and quality. If everything is more or less clear with viscosity, the thinner the oil, the more it flows through various seals, then the quality is a little more complicated. The fact is that most car owners prefer to buy engine oil for their engine for reasons of "cheaper". But so that all labels, markings, packaging, the name of the company - everything is in stock. With such an installation, they easily "fall" on a fake. And it’s not even in such cases, they are quite rare, when somewhere in the basement cheap industrial oil is poured into packages from branded motor oil. It is enough to re-stick labels already on finished products so that an ordinary Lukoil turns into an elite Castrol. And it will also be a fake!

But let's say you managed to buy a really branded and relatively cheap product. Let's say. But the fact is that the vast majority of modern Japanese engines are highly accelerated units. There are four valves per cylinder, which means the engine is already boosted. Not to mention VVTi, Super Charge, Turbo systems, etc. And a high degree of forcing, in turn, means that all the "pieces of iron" inside the engine have a very high temperature. And for normal operation, all these "pieces of iron" require only high-quality and by no means the cheapest engine oil. Otherwise, overheating of the oil and its destruction follows. Ugar, as they say in some manuals.

For example, open the filler neck on your engine's valve cover. What do you see inside? That's right, black soot. Where is the soot from? Yes, oil. From too high a temperature, cheap engine oil is destroyed and deposited on the walls. Oil burnout occurs, and its level in the crankcase decreases. This, in turn, among other negative consequences, leads to a decrease in the oil level in the engine, which again does not have the best effect on its ability to cool in the oil pan. This means that in the future there will be even more overheating of engine oil. The durability of an engine with such (cheap) motor oil, alas, is expected to be very low.
So, the first disadvantage of bad oil is that it is destroyed by high temperature and, in fact, ceases to be oil. That high-quality product that manufacturers recommend.
The second disadvantage of low-grade oils is that, when they break down, they pollute the engine with their decay products (soot). As a result, the piston rings barely toss and turn in their grooves due to this soot, but should “play”, continuously monitoring, alas, no longer ideal, the cylinder profile. The result is the occurrence (coking) of the piston rings. And the first, as follows from practice, the oil scraper rings will stop moving. As a result, unremoved oil will remain on the walls of the cylinder, which will burn out. A car with a gasoline engine will smoke with a bluish smoke. Diesel - no. Any remaining oil in a diesel engine will burn without any smoke. The most curious thing is that if compression is measured with this defect (the occurrence of oil scraper rings), the results will be excellent. The oil not removed from the cylinder walls will seal the gaps in the compression rings, and the pressure gauge will show pressure even better than that of a new engine.
And the third thing that the use of low-grade oils will lead to is the destruction of all "rubber bands". The rubber of all oil seals, seals, valve stem seals, after overheating, will lose its elasticity and turn into some kind of plastic. Naturally, after this, an oil leak will appear. And all these problems arise from the desire to win something by servicing your iron friend by buying cheaper oil for him.
When a car arrives with excessive engine oil consumption, three items are checked in turn: oil leakage, oil quality, and engine smoke.

Oil leak. We start the engine, it runs on the spot for about 30 minutes, then we turn it off. If there is at least one drop on a newspaper previously spread under the car, you need to fight the leak. If there are no drops, do not “load”, a wet sump is not good, but this is not the reason for the increased oil consumption. By the way, increased oil consumption is when, during the run from replacement to replacement, engine oil has to be topped up. That's what most car dealers think. Although the instructions for domestic automotive vehicles, meaning trucks, are called increased consumption of about 1 liter per 100 km. Only in this case the engine is sent for repair. For Japanese cars, this is, of course, cool, but as a criterion for assessing excessive oil consumption, this figure is suitable. Quite often, during the operation of the car, the bumps in the road are touched by the engine oil pan. Usually the pan remains intact, there are not even noticeable dents that could lead to deformation of the oil receiver and subsequently create serious problems. But after such a touch, the pallet moves slightly from its place and the sealant on which it was planted is undermined. After that, of course, there is a leak.

The second reason for the leak is bad frontal seals, which can be replaced without any problems. But when replacing them, when you take everything apart, you need to be very careful about the oil pump cover. A leak from under this cover very often outwardly looks like a leak in the windshield seals. For Toyota 4A engines, a dipstick shaft that is not tightly inserted into the engine block also causes oil to leak, which is quite difficult to detect. Painfully at the same time, the picture looks like a leak of oil seals or an oil pump. Therefore, it is easier to disconnect the shaft, pull it out, lubricate the sealing ring with sealant and insert it back. The oil leak, if it was there, will stop. A leak in the rear crankshaft oil seal is a rather rare occurrence. Usually, the rear oil seal overrides a couple of sets of front ones. To replace the crankshaft rear oil seal, the gearbox must be removed. After that, put marks and remove the flywheel. After replacing the stuffing box, you need to carefully inspect the cover that holds this stuffing box, it is possible to leak through it. If so, you need to remove the cover, lubricate the seat with sealant and reinstall it. Also, until the flywheel is installed, it is necessary to inspect the oil plugs on the rear wall of the cylinder block and cylinder head. If necessary, unscrew these plugs and, after lubricating with sealant, install them back. There are cases when a leak from under the rear of the valve cover is taken for a leak in the rear oil seal. Therefore, before starting to remove the gearbox, you need to put your hand in and touch the back wall of the valve cover. If the hand is in oil, maybe it's easier to first eliminate the leak from under the valve cover and see in a week? How to remove the gearbox. However, if you like turning nuts, remove the box. Then you will see everything with your own eyes. And a number of minor (in terms of the amount of work to be eliminated) causes of engine oil leaks: an oil pressure sensor leak (by the way, very dangerous; there are cases when a minor leak of this sensor unexpectedly ended with all the oil dumped on the asphalt in a few minutes), a leak from under the distributor (this one, without noticeable consequences for oil consumption, can flow forever), etc. Very rarely, but such cases occur, a leak is found from under the cylinder head. The head of the block in this case, as a rule, is warped due to overheating of the engine and, after removal, it must be given for grinding.
Separately, I would like to talk about crankcase ventilation. Very often, our turbine specialist comes to our box and complains that his clients have tortured him. They come in their turbocharged diesel engines and report that their turbine drives oil. Repair please. And they poke their fingers into the drips of oil on the turbine and air ducts. Although in fact the turbine (turbocharger) has nothing to do with it. When a seal (oil seal) leaks in this unit (turbo) for some reason, it will be a seal that works in the worst conditions. That is, of the two seals, the seal on the turbine side will flow first, and on the compressor side, where the temperature of all the glands is several hundred degrees lower, the seal will still hold. At least, if the shaft in the turbocharger has not burst. In other words, if the turbocharger is destined to drive oil, then it will do it in the exhaust pipe. And after warming up, such a machine will smoke with a bluish smoke with a characteristic smell of unburned oil. In some modern tanks, a smoke screen device works on the same principle: diesel fuel is fed into a hot exhaust manifold. And there is enough smoke for everyone. Both ours and the enemy. And oil leaks at the joints of the air duct are simply due to the fact that the compressor is forced to compress air with oil. Where does oil come from? Yes, from the ventilation system. During engine operation, some amount of exhaust gases will inevitably enter the crankcase. There, these gases will mix with oil mist and become known as crankcase gases. And then through the valve cover (most often) they will be sucked into the intake manifold. Or, if the engine is turbocharged, into the duct before the turbocharger. True, all the oil in these gases should “beat off” in the oil separator and drain back into the engine crankcase, but sometimes this, for various reasons, does not happen. For example, simply because there are too many crankcase gases. Because of the burned-out firing belts at the pistons. Then the oil does not have time to separate from the gases and mixes with the sucked air through the ventilation tube. Further, compressed air (with oil vapor) slightly inflates (after all, the turbine creates pressure) rubber hoses, and those, being not quite tightly compressed at the joints, begin to “sweat”. This is a problem with all older diesel engines. When another car comes for repair with a stubborn desire to “repair” the turbine, we disconnect the ventilation for it and, using an additional rubber tube, we bring it into a plastic bottle, which we fix right there in the engine compartment. The hole in the duct, of course, is covered with something. After that, we wash off all the oil leaks on the air ducts and tell the client that he needs to drive 200 kilometers. And he himself will make sure that the air ducts have become dry, and oil has appeared in the bottle at the bottom. In this situation, it is necessary to check the ventilation system and, if it is in order, plan the repair of the piston group. True, you can still try to decoke the oil scraper rings with additives in fuel and engine oil, maybe this will help, otherwise, there are two ways. The first is to ride with a bottle, periodically pouring oil out of it into the engine. The second is the repair or replacement of the engine.
Now about what we do with the oil separation system, which is located in the valve cover. We are talking about diesel engines, since the ventilation system in gasoline engines, as a rule, does not cause problems. In general, all oil separators work in the same way. They carry out a sharp change in the direction of the flow of gases, as a result of which the oil settles on the walls. Along the walls, it flows into the “pan” of the oil separator and through a special hole into the engine (into the block head). This is where the design differences and problems begin. Most engines use the following scheme. The oil flows down through the hole in the “sump” (in fact, it is a hole in the tin), and through the same hole more and more crankcase gases go, which carry new oil. In theory, the “beaten off” oil should drain along the edge and not interfere with the gases. But if there are a lot of gases? The engine is old and worn out. Then the oil flowing down the walls (already “beaten off”) is picked up by gases and fed back into the oil separator. As a result, with this design, “unbeaten” oil flies from the ventilation tube. What is the output? Make another hole in the tin? In general, it is possible, but who prevents the gases from going now not through a regular hole, but through a newly made hole? And in it again to pick up the "beaten off" oil? However, in this situation (with an increase in the through hole), the speed of the crankcase gases will be lower, and they will pick up the broken oil with less intensity. But in some designs there is a separate hole for “beaten off” oil, through which gases do not go, since this hole is closed by a valve with a plastic ball. When oil accumulates in the oil separator pan, the ball floats and the oil flows out. This design is used in some Isuzu models and, as practice shows, is not very good for our worn out cars. The problems are the same. Soot on the ball and too much crankcase gases. As a result, the engine again "drives" the oil through the ventilation. For some time now, Japanese designers have been using a water seal instead of a plastic ball. Then the oil flows not just through the hole in the oil separator pan, but through a tube that is lowered into the oil. To do this, a cup is fixed at the end of the tube, in which there is always oil. When this cup overflows from the dripping drops of "beaten" oil, the excess oil simply flows out into the head. Engines with this design for oil removal have practically no problems with excess engine oil in crankcase gases. At least that's how it has been so far. We also regularly make a similar design if there is a suspicion that too much engine oil “drives” through the ventilation. A lot or not, we define it as such. We remove the ventilation tube and cover its end with one layer of ordinary thin fabric (of those used for sheets). After that, we start the preheated engine and light a cigarette. If, after the cigarette is smoked, the fabric is not completely black, we consider that the oil separation system is working satisfactorily. If a piece of fabric turns black, and even more so if a drop forms on it, then ventilation definitely does not cope with its task. And we begin its repair by removing the valve cover and organizing a drain for broken oil. And so that crankcase gases do not go through this drain (hole), we make a water seal. Cigar cases are excellent for this, the aluminum material of which makes it easy to make any design.

Oil quality. It's easy to check. Take the valve cover off and have a look. If everything under it is black, with thick deposits of fuel oil on all parts, then oil consumption is largely due to its waste. Second option. If a week after the oil change, it turned black again (we are not talking about diesels, where the blackening of the engine oil still does not mean anything), then one of two things: either the engine is terribly dirty and the new oil successfully dissolves this dirt in itself, or the new oil is intensively destroyed and, naturally, decreases, being heavily polluted with the products of its waste. By the way, this is a very common cause of engine failure. The owner of a forced Japanese engine, showing his commercialism, buys the cheapest engine oil. Yes, it's imported and works great. For example, in the engine of a GAZ-21 car from a neighbor. But this engine does not heat up above 90 degrees in its entire life. While the temperature of Japanese engines almost constantly exceeds 110 degrees. This is where branded oil begins to break down. It's just that it was not created for modern forced Japanese engines.

Engine smoke. Let's talk about petrol engines first. The normal condition of any gasoline engine is that there is no smoke from the exhaust pipe. However, there is one caveat. The fact is that when gasoline is burned, water is formed, this is said even in chemistry lessons at school. Therefore, according to all the laws of physics and chemistry, steam must come out of the exhaust pipe. It goes if the temperature of the exhaust gases is not high. This happens in the morning, while the exhaust tract has not warmed up and in winter, when it is cold outside, and the tract is simply not able to warm up. But, if the engine and exhaust system are warm, there will be no steam from the exhaust pipe, or rather it will not be visible. By the way, this is a note. If in the morning there is no steam from the exhaust pipe after starting the engine, then this indicates a malfunction of the engine, in particular that the engine is running on a rich mixture. However, here it is necessary to make one clarification. The starting system for carburetor engines, as a rule, turns off after 3-5 seconds. During these seconds, until the vacuum servo motor is forced to open the choke, the motor may emit black smoke and this is not considered a fault. But if, after a few seconds after starting the engine, black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, but there is no steam, then we can assume that the engine is faulty and it has a too rich fuel mixture. If the engine is working, there should be steam. We will not consider black smoke from the engine. Normal cars should not have it (abnormal cars, those that, in order to increase power in order to successfully participate in sports competitions, have the so-called “chip tuning”, well, faulty cars). And the appearance of black smoke seems to have nothing to do with oil consumption. And the gray (or blue) smoke is related. There are three main options for its appearance.

First option. The car with a warm engine stands still and works. There is no noticeable smoke from the exhaust pipe. But if, after about five minutes of running the engine at idle, you sharply press on the gas pedal, a cloud of blue smoke will fly out of the exhaust pipe. If you immediately accelerate again - again a cloud. Accelerate a third time - the cloud of smoke will become smaller. Once again, even less. For the tenth time, when you sharply press the gas pedal, there will be almost no blue smoke. All this is a typical manifestation of such a nuisance as current valve stem seals. While the engine was idling, the oil through the defective sealing gums (valve seals) along the valve stem slowly flowed to the back of the valve cap and remained there in the form of a film, the air flow rate at idle speed was not very high, so the oil had the opportunity to accumulate.

Rice. 1. With worn valve stem seals, engine oil flows down the intake valve stems and is drawn into the combustion chamber. Through the exhaust valves, the oil also tries to get into the exhaust manifold and burn out there, but due to the pressure in the exhaust manifold, this only happens when the guides are very worn. However, at idle speed, when the pressure in the exhaust manifold is pulsating, oil can leak even if the guide is not badly worn. While on the intake valves, the vacuum literally draws the oil into the combustion chambers.

Until the airflow speed increases. You pressed on the gas, the air flow rate increased and all the oil accumulated earlier on the valve stem and the inner surface of the plate of the same valve was immediately sucked into the cylinders. New oil will, of course, run in again, but in small quantities, it will not lead to a noticeable change in the color of the exhaust gases. This oil has the ability to accumulate only at low intake air velocities, i.e. at idle, or when the engine is stopped and the liquid oil (engine is hot) that remains on the valve stem does not completely drain down.

Read also:

All about oil consumption and loss

It should be noted that often the cause of engine oil getting into the intake (and exhaust) manifold is not only bad valve stem seals, but also worn valve guides. In this case, replacing the valve stem seals may not give a noticeable reduction in oil consumption (or give a short-term positive effect). In this case, it is necessary to remove the block head and replace the guide bushings, with all related operations. We had cases when we changed the caps and the blue smoke disappeared. But after 4-6 months, he appeared again. Simply because new caps (24 pieces) were bought for 300 rubles for the entire set. While branded caps cost around $ 5 apiece. In addition, many cars have different caps for intake and exhaust valves. Therefore, the sale of the entire set of new caps in one package raises serious doubts about their quality. Externally, the valve stem seals for the intake and exhaust valves are the same, but due to the different composition of the rubber, they have a slightly different color and different catalog numbers. Also, an illiterate replacement of caps will not give a positive result. For example, if the master puts on caps with a hammer, he can very easily sink the cap further than normal and break it.

Second option. There seems to be no blue (gray-gray, depending on the degree of engine warm-up and the degree of color blindness of the observer) smoke from the exhaust pipe - neither when idling, nor when driving, if you look through the rear-view mirror. But remember how you are driving uphill, where almost all drivers are pressing on the gas pedal. There is no smoke at all behind one car in front, and blue smoke curls from the exhaust pipe of another. Moreover, the driver sitting in that car in the rear-view mirror does not see this smoke: there is too little of it. But you, who are following, can see this smoke. And he says that the car in front has problems with the piston group, as a result of which there is an increased consumption of engine oil. The same can be true for your car.

Problems with the piston group may be as follows.
1. Wear of piston rings. The reason, as a rule, is savings on air filters and engine oil. "Treated" by replacing filters and oil.
2. Wear of the groove for the piston rings. The groove has become too wide and because of this, a "pumping effect" occurs when the engine is running. "Treated" by replacing the pistons. But, according to "poverty", options are possible. See point 6.
3. The occurrence of oil scraper rings. It is “treated” either with additives in fuel (or in oil) or mechanical cleaning during disassembly.
4. Wrong position of compression rings. When the piston moves, the ring is pressed against the wall of its groove and constantly “plays”, tracking the profile of the cylinder. If there is carbon deposits on this wall, then the ring, pressing against it, will barely move in its groove, the thickness of the carbon deposit is not uniform and, therefore, the ring will warp and seal the “piston-cylinder” gap incorrectly. It is "treated" by adding an additive to fuel or engine oil. Or, if there is a desire to disassemble the engine, mechanical removal of carbon deposits.
5. Cylinder wear. The wear process is always uneven and begins with the first start of the engine. Piston rings, "playing" in their grooves, when the piston moves, constantly monitor the profile of the cylinder and everything is more or less decent. But in the end, the wear of the cylinder profile becomes so great that the rings are no longer able to do their job (seal the piston-cylinder gap). If the operation of the rings is also hindered by carbon deposits or too thick engine oil, this occurs with much less wear on the cylinder. Engine compression is reduced. "Treatment" by boring the cylinder to the repair size or sleeve. But there is a serious problem here. Both of these operations (both boring and sleeve) involve the use of abrasive tools, for example, for honing. The use of an abrasive tool, in turn, leads to the fact that part of the abrasive particles is embedded in the material being processed. And it is very difficult to remove these particles. In large enterprises, ultrasonic washing is used for this, but what should auto repair shops do? Wash as best they can. Accordingly, the engine resource after such a repair is unlikely to exceed 100 thousand km. True, owners of cars with engines that have liners from birth, such as the Mitsubishi 4D-56, Mazda RF, etc., have an ingenious way out. The worn sleeve is pressed out, turned over and pressed again. In practice (not from a good life, of course), it has been verified that even if a “step” of 1 mm has formed during the wear of the cylinder (sleeve), the sleeve can still be used “upside down”. With such wear, in order to remove the pistons, it is necessary to “smooth out” the step with a drill. Otherwise, the compression rings, resting against the shoulder, will not allow the piston to be knocked out. As a result, a pit forms on the surface of the sleeve, but, nevertheless, just below the pit, traces of honing are already visible, a symbol of the absence of wear. Therefore, such an engine, with inverted sleeves, works quite well - there is no oil consumption. We know the old "Delica", which has already traveled 130 thousand km with inverted sleeves without noticeable signs of wear of the piston group.
6. Wear and destruction of pistons. "Cure" by replacement. Although you can melt. The result will be “not very”, it strongly depends on the qualification of the welder, but still. At one time, when there were almost no spare parts for Japanese engines, we welded the destroyed bridges between the grooves for the piston rings. But after that, it was necessary to carry out heat treatment and machining of the entire piston so that its dimensions corresponded to decency. The jumpers burst with very high wear of the grooves and with constant impacts of the rings against the walls, which leads to a significant decrease in compression and increased consumption of engine oil. This breakdown is more likely if the ignition is too early and when using low octane fuel. Jumpers almost do not burst on old Nissan engines (they are just very wide) and on 2-liter in-line "sixes" of all companies. There, the piston diameter is small and the detonation wave, which hits the rings (and they already break the jumpers), does not have time to accelerate much. Fused firing belts on pistons (mainly in diesel engines due to a lean fuel mixture at high engine speeds) can also be welded on, but in this case there are usually scuffs on the skirts. Therefore, it is more reliable to find other pistons. Well, or start making new ones. On this subject in the book by A.E. Khruleva "Repair of engines of foreign cars" of the publishing house "Behind the wheel" is described in some detail and convincingly.
So, if from the exhaust pipe blue (or bluish) smoke, and the higher the speed of the car, the more this smoke; It won’t help - you can remember the “old-fashioned” way: turn out the candles and fill in full cylinders of acetone. To prevent this acetone from pouring straight down, dilute it with kerosene and engine oil. A ratio of 1:1:1 is usually recommended. After that, the very next day, it is necessary to drain all the fluid from the engine sump and fill in fresh oil. Sometimes these activities help. If this does not give a positive effect, disassemble the engine. By the way, measuring the compression at the occurrence of the rings does not give anything. The fact is that the oil scraper rings are the first to lose their mobility and, naturally, this leads to the fact that unremoved oil remains on the cylinder walls. And when there is oil on the walls of the cylinder, the compression will be excellent. Even with heavily worn compression rings and pistons.
In fact, the old masters have a rule: if the oil consumption is more on the highway than in the city, then the piston is to blame. If there is a greater oil consumption in the city, then the valve stem seals are most likely to blame.
Third option. There is a lot of smoke from the exhaust pipe, or there is no pattern under which operating modes it is more, and under which it is less. We will not consider cases where a large amount of smoke from the exhaust pipe is associated with the flow of coolant into the cylinders (the smoke is whiter and has a sweetish smell), we will not consider here, since this is related to the cooling system and is a separate topic. A large amount of blue (gray) smoke from the exhaust pipe can be if the turbine is broken (for turbocharged engines), the crankcase ventilation system is faulty, the intake manifold geometry change system and late fuel injection (for diesel engines) are faulty. Let's consider these cases in more detail.
The turbine broke. If an oil seal (oil seal) is destroyed in a turbocharger, then the oil that is supplied to this turbocharger under pressure to lubricate the shaft will begin to flow into the exhaust pipe and, naturally, burn there. But only after the exhaust pipe heats up. On this sign - the machine begins to smoke intensively after warming up - and they build the assumption that the turbine seal is faulty. Usually in these cases, the flow of oil into the exhaust pipe is so abundant that it oozes along the joints (flanges) of the exhaust tract and even drips from the muffler.
Faulty ventilation system. When using low-quality grades of engine oil in high-powered engines, which are mostly Japanese engines, this low-grade oil quickly breaks down. The internal surfaces of the engine, in particular the valve cover, are covered with oil decomposition products, that is, soot. When there is a lot of this soot, it clogs the oil separator, and after that the crankcase gases are no longer cleaned of oil. Let's take a case from our practice as an example. Suzuki Escudo car with a six-cylinder V-engine H20A. The car could smoke blue smoke with the smell of burnt oil, or it might not smoke. And there was no regularity or pattern. It is standing, idling, and there is almost no smoke from the exhaust pipe. It takes several minutes (even tens of minutes) and suddenly smoke comes out of the chimney. Two - three minutes, and again everything is decent. There is no smoke.

Removed the intake manifold, and it is full of oil. By oil streaks on the inner walls, we traced where the oil came from - from the ventilation hole. We remove the valve cover, and there everything is in black oil "stalactites". After that, the valve cover was washed from the outside and drilled out (it is riveted) fastening the oil separator cover. We remove the cover - everything inside is clogged with asphalt. Including oil drain holes. Next, we go to the hardware store and buy a few dozen screws, the shortest ones. After that, in place of the rivets, we drill holes for these screws and, as expected, fasten the cover onto the sealant. The aluminum material of the valve cover allows the screw to be screwed in like a self-tapping screw, i.e. without thread cutting. It is enough just to make a hole for the self-tapping screw a few "tens" less. If with this malfunction (completely inoperative oil separator) there was a simpler engine, for example, the 3S series, then it would not be possible to calculate the malfunction so easily. And the “abstruse” intake manifold of the “Eskudovsky” V-shaped model allowed the oil to accumulate in various cavities and then flow into the cylinders in one gulp. After such "volley" discharges of engine oil, there was a sharp increase in smoke from the exhaust pipe. If a diesel engine came with such a problem, then, of course, there would be no smoke. After all, engine oil, once in the cylinders, burns out, as you know, no worse than diesel fuel. And only by oil leaks at the junctions of the intake manifold and air ducts one could suspect that not everything is in order with the ventilation system. If all the joints are sealed ... But this is rarely the case, especially if the engine is equipped with a turbocharger. The fact is that in the presence of a turbocharger, the pressure in the intake manifold changes periodically. All rubber spacers, when the boost is “turned on”, are slightly inflated and “fidget”, which is why the seal is broken. As long as the “gum” is “fresh”, there are no leaks. But as soon as they “zadubet” a little, oil streaks appear.
Changing the geometry of the intake manifold. For some engines, the drive of the flaps that block the air channels in the intake manifold is made inside the engine. For example, in engines of the 1S series, this drive is located under the valve cover. Moreover, even the vacuum servomotor communicates with the space under the valve cover. And there, of course, oil mist. If the diaphragm of the servo motor breaks, then every time it is triggered, oil from the engine, together with crankcase gases, will flow through the vacuum control tubes into the intake manifold. The engine will emit blue smoke. If the damper shafts "break" in their guides, engine oil will also flow into the intake manifold. And the engine will again smoke and “eat” oil. When we encounter such a problem, we turn off the servo motor and disconnect the actuating damper actuators. After that, the dampers become “downwind”, there is no geometry control system, and the engine does not “eat” oil. The damper shafts stop rotating back and forth, and the flow of oil along them, and, consequently, the flow rate, is reduced. Apparently, this is simply due to the fact that the gaps between the axles and the block head housing are clogged with soot and the oil flow decreases. The decrease in power after such a “modernization” is not even noticed by normal drivers. Moreover, this reduction occurs in a narrow range of engine speeds.

Kornienko Sergey Vladimirovich
Vladivostok

Any car constantly sends exhaust gases into the atmosphere - and this is a normal situation. It's all about the amount of harmful emissions and their composition. With a properly adjusted and serviceable system, the gases from the muffler will be transparent and almost invisible (except in frosty weather). But what if the engine smokes very strongly, throwing out dense exhausts of a black or bluish hue? This means that not everything is in order with your power plant and the color of the gases will help to understand the causes of the “illness” of the car.

Causes of engine smoke

The increased release of gases from the muffler may be the result of an incorrect balance between fuel and air, not simultaneous or incomplete combustion of the mixture, oil or antifreeze getting into the engine cylinders. The main reasons why a car smokes can be summarized below:

• the occurrence of malfunctions in the fuel system;
• wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group;
• cooling system problems;
• improper functioning of the gas distribution mechanism.

Experienced car mechanics can pinpoint exactly why a car smokes a lot by examining the hue of the exhaust. And if the cause is known, then it is much easier to deal with the problem. The appearance of a bluish, white or black exhaust is often accompanied by "passing" troubles:

• Difficulty starting a cold engine.
• Unstable operation of the power unit in idle mode and under load (the tachometer needle jumps).
• Increased consumption of oil and gasoline (diesel fuel).

Here it is worth making a small digression. The fact is that some cars have a relatively high oil and fuel consumption provided by manufacturers. This applies to powerful and expensive machines. For example, a 4.7-liter Toyota 2UZ FE engine consumes 10 liters per 100 km on the highway, and all 16 in the city. At the same time, natural oil waste is 1 liter per 1000 km. Such parameters are especially striking after transplanting from economical middle-class cars.

• Loss of traction power of the vehicle.

It also happens that the smoke from the muffler pipe is the only sign of a malfunction of any part of the machine. You can more accurately diagnose a malfunction by the color of the exhaust.

transparent smoke

Inexperienced car owners sometimes take the steam coming out of the muffler for smoke and start to panic. However, this is quite normal. The liquid condenses on the exhaust pipe at low temperatures and after the engine starts, the water begins to actively evaporate, turning into steam. When the motor warms up to operating temperature, the "phenomenon" will stop. The amount of steam released is related to the humidity of the surrounding air: the higher it is, the longer the white "smoke". It is not a sign of a breakdown of the power unit, and no action is required in this case. To finally make sure that the engine is working properly and steam is coming out of the pipe, attach a clean piece of paper to the muffler pipe for a few seconds: the water will dry and leave no traces. If so, then everything is in order.

Black smoke exit

This trouble causes the most serious damage to the environmental situation and indicates serious problems in the power plant. At the same time, there is a strong smell of burnt oil or metal, sometimes it stinks of heated plastic in the cabin. Why is this happening? Probable causes when the engine smokes in this "mode":

• fuel system malfunctions: the composition of the air-fuel system is seriously unbalanced - an excessively enriched mixture enters the cylinders (a lot of gasoline or diesel fuel and little air);
• malfunctions in the electronic engine control unit (correct injection is broken);
• loss of injectors (they overflow) tightness in the injection engine;
• a drop in compression in the cylinders of the power unit: the cause is the wear of the rings, pistons as a result of long-term operation or poor-quality repairs.

These malfunctions lead to increased fuel consumption, next to the car there will be a smell of gasoline or diesel fuel. For a quick check, remove the spark plugs and evaluate them: a black coating confirms a malfunction in the ignition or fuel supply system.

Blue smoke

If it appears in a diesel or gasoline-powered car, then this indicates the penetration of oil into the cylinders. As a result, the lubricant composition burns out, forming bluish clouds of smoke, which are poorly dissipated. The blue tint can have a different intensity, which is associated with the brand of oil used, the ambient temperature. You can make sure that the lubricant is overused by measuring its level with a dipstick. A regular decrease in the amount of oil indicates its combustion or leakage. Another test is carried out using a sheet of clean paper attached to the muffler pipe with the engine running. Oily spots will only confirm the presence of a lubricant in the combustion chamber. Reasons why the engine smokes:

• breakage, wear or low quality of valve stem seals: when starting the engine on a “cold” after a long stop, the lubricant composition will burn out along with the fuel, which will immediately show smoke formation;
• occurrence of piston rings;
• - use of a lubricant that does not meet the manufacturer's requirements.

Blue smoke can also form with slight engine wear. After warming up, the elements of the power unit begin to expand, and the blue exhaust gradually becomes less strong, and then may disappear altogether.

White dense smoke

It differs from steam not only in its increased density. If the car smokes white smoke, then the latter will dissipate for a long time. At the same time, a burning smell is felt, which does not disappear after the engine reaches operating temperature. When starting the engine on a "hot" problem is also not solved. White smoke indicates the presence of serious problems in the cooling system: antifreeze getting into the oil. Exhaust shades depend on the type of antifreeze (coolant). Reasons for this problem:

• violation of the tightness of the cylinder head: the formation of cracks, severe deformation or burnout of the gasket;
• the use of low-quality coolant and: poor antifreeze can literally “eat through” the metal, sharply increasing corrosion, which can lead to the impossibility of restoring some parts of the cooling system.

When antifreeze and oil are mixed, the latter loses its qualities and becomes less viscous, which adversely affects the normal functioning of all power plant systems and leads to a decrease in its operational life.

What to do if white dense smoke appears

First, carefully inspect the candles: if they have scale, this indicates water has entered the cylinders. Then open the cap of the expansion tank of the cooling system: a low level of antifreeze, an oil film, a burning smell indicate a violation of the tightness of the cooling system. Next, you need to dismantle the head and check the integrity of its gasket, the presence of cracks. All restoration work must be carried out in a specialized car workshop.

Actions in the event of blue smoke

Oil penetrates into the chamber where the air-fuel mixture is prepared through a valve that has lost its tightness or “thanks to” worn piston rings and. Then you need to bore and honing the cylinders, move on to the next repair size. Sometimes (but not for long) it helps to replace the piston rings. The first option, when the amount of oil entering the cylinders exceeds all limits, implies either valves.

Sometimes whitish blue smoke is formed due to leakage of the lubricant and its contact with the exhaust manifold. Then check and, if necessary, install new gaskets and (or) the crankshaft oil seal.

Malfunctions of the engine with a turbocharger

If the machine is equipped with this unit, then the appearance of a white exhaust with a bluish tint may be due to an oil leak, which, instead of lubricating the turbine bearings, goes into the starting system. To check this, remove the turbo from a diesel or gasoline engine and see if there is oil in the air duct. If this is the case, then it is better to visit a car repair shop. When black smoke comes out of the pipe, test the tightness of the intake system. The exit of dark exhaust during regassing is especially noticeable.

I get asked a lot about car exhaust. Often, beginners, and even experienced drivers, do not like how the car “smokes”. More precisely, sometimes white smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, it can manifest itself both in the morning (when the engine was just started) and during the day. And there are two different reasons. But everything is in order ...

What is an exhaust?

If your power unit and the systems adjacent to it are serviceable and operating normally, then the exhaust is nothing more than a combination of water vapor, nitrogen and carbon dioxide. They are practically colorless, during the operation of a working unit, an invisible stream of these gases comes out of the pipe, it also works in purification, which removes various gases at the outlet of the exhaust manifold.

But why does white smoke sometimes come out of the muffler? Is it especially in the mornings in cold weather? It's not always a malfunction, it's simple physics.

Cold weather

The first reason for this phenomenon may be cold weather. As we explained above, there is water vapor in the exhaust, there is no hiding from it, because it is in the air that is sucked in by the engine to create a fuel mixture. In cold weather, hot steam comes out of the muffler, cooling instantly, here you have a whitish tint - or rather steam! Moreover, the lower the temperature, the stronger it will be noticeable. It's like steam coming out of your mouth.

I would also like to note that sometimes condensation forms in the muffler due to temperature differences. And when you start the engine, the muffler heats up, and the water begins to evaporate. Thus, even in warm weather, white smoke can come out.

Condensation forms in the exhaust pipe due to frequent short runs, for example, you live close to work. The exhaust system does not have time to warm up to evaporate all the water, and when it cools down, evaporation does not occur. Thus, the water level is rising, I personally saw it when they poured about a liter. In order for it to evaporate and not form again, you need to drive at least once a week for long distances, from 30 minutes or more. Or just warm up the car in the yard, then the concentration of "steam" will decrease significantly.

As you understand, this is not a fatal cause, it does not indicate a breakdown. But there is one in which there is very serious damage to the system.

Breaking

Usually the symptoms are: - no matter what the weather and temperature, whether the engine is warm or not, a very thick white exhaust comes out of the exhaust pipe, and the coolant level is constantly dropping (how can you know it), you add a new batch of liquid almost every day. Turnovers constantly "dance", from 800 to 1200.

I'll tell you guys right away - nothing good. You need to go to the service station and the sooner the better. If you stretch it, you can ruin your unit, here it’s not far to “”.

The reason: - the whole point is that the coolant enters the combustion chamber, after which it exits the muffler with the exhaust. This is very dangerous, because there is also mixing with oil, its properties are falling, after fixing the problem, it is advisable to change it.

Why is this happening? And how can she get there?

It's all about the design of the engine. As you know, it consists of a block and an upper head (where the “camshaft” is located), there is a gasket between them, the design must be tight - since coolant circulates in the block and the “head”, which removes excessive overheating. It should be noted that the liquid also passes through the gasket (there are special grooves there).

If everything is normal, there are no leaks - antifreeze cannot get into the cylinders. But if the head of the block is improperly mounted (poorly twisted) or if it is damaged, small deflections are possible through which liquid begins to ooze. It is she who enters the combustion chambers, immediately evaporating and turning into a thick white vapor.

Therefore, you need to clearly know what is happening with your engine - the usual steam or all the antifreeze is leaving. Watch a helpful video.

You can diagnose the breakdown yourself, there is one "old-fashioned" method.

1) We warm up the engine to operating temperature, it would be nice after a short run.

2) We take a blank piece of paper and apply it to the exhaust pipe. Not covering it completely, about half. Hold for 10 - 15 seconds.

3) We look at the paper, if it is wet as from water, there is nothing to worry about. It's just water. If the paper is oily, as after oil, this is bad! So, antifreeze or antifreeze goes into your system. You need to go to the service station, do not delay.

Let's watch a short video.

Filters

You know the last reason, there may be failed (clogged) engine filters for air purification. I also thought that this is not possible - but it's a fact! The thing is that there is less air (dirty filters do not allow it to pass), but there is more fuel, while the “smoke” increases. But here it can also show not only white but also black exhaust. But this is a topic for another article, be sure to follow our blog.

In the end, I want to say - if you have such a “whitish fog” effect in winter, the liquid level does not drop, then this is normal! You shouldn't even pay attention to it.

After several hours of inactivity of the car and the subsequent start of the engine, in some cases, you may notice the appearance of thick smoke from the exhaust system. Such smoke can be white, gray or black. Smoke can either disappear or be present after further warming up. It should be noted that if the engine smokes after warming up, then this indicates a definite malfunction.

By the color of the exhaust, you can more accurately diagnose a breakdown, as well as identify the severity of the problem at various stages. In certain cases, the appearance of smoke is accompanied by:

• difficult starting of a cold engine;
• unstable operation of the motor at idle and under load;
• revolutions on the tachometer can float;
• there is an increased consumption of fuel and engine oil;
• the engine loses power, etc.

There are also situations when the smoke of a cold or hot engine is the only sign of a malfunction of the power unit.

Read in this article

Causes of engine smoke

In the list of the main malfunctions that cause increased smoke generation, there are:

1. problems with the fuel supply system;
2. wear of the cylinder-piston group;
3. malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism;
4. malfunctions of the engine cooling system;

The appearance of smoke can be caused by incomplete combustion of the fuel-air mixture, malfunctions in the combustion process, coolant from the cooling system or from the lubrication system into the combustion chamber. These faults are capable of painting exhaust gases in a certain color.

Additionally, it should be borne in mind that malfunctions of one system can lead to incorrect operation of other nodes and elements.

As an example, consider the inefficient operation of the engine cooling system. Insufficient cooling leads to overheating of the engine and the destruction of the piston rings. O-ring problems mean that oil starts to get into the cylinders and the engine smokes.

Engine emits white smoke

White smoke during warm-up is often just steam that condenses in the exhaust system. Steam will be visible until the exhaust heats up. You can also see drops of water at the end of the pipe. If the outside temperature is low, then steam will be visible even after the engine has warmed up and reached operating temperature. The density of such smoke is additionally influenced by air humidity. If the humidity is high, then there will be more smoke.

The appearance of a thick cloud of white smoke in the warm season after the internal combustion engine has warmed up often indicates that it enters the cylinders. A common cause of sudden white fumes is the previous overheating of the engine. Water is a component that is present in the composition of the coolant. It turns out that part of the water does not have time to evaporate in the combustion chamber. The ingress of coolant can occur as a result of the destruction of the gasket or cracks in the places where the channels of the cooling jacket pass through which the coolant moves.

White smoke is a vapor that dissipates easily into the air. To check the exhaust pipe, you can attach a sheet of clean paper. The water will gradually dry on the sheet, leaving no distinct greasy spots.

The next step in the diagnosis will be to check the cooling system for exhaust gases. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the radiator cap or the cap of the expansion tank with the engine turned off. If the smell of exhaust is felt, there is an oil film in the liquid itself and the liquid level is low, then the malfunction is obvious. Starting the engine in this case will lead to a significant increase in pressure and an increase in the coolant level in the tank. Also in the tank you can observe gas bubbles and even seething.

The subsequent stop of the engine will lead to the fact that the level will drop and the coolant will partially go into the cylinder. From the cylinder, fluid seeps through the piston rings, ends up in the oil pan, mixing with the lubricant and diluting the engine oil. It turns out a kind of emulsion, the color of the oil changes and the lubricant becomes cloudy.

The ingress of coolant into the lubrication system is diagnosed by analyzing the cylinder head cover and oil filler cap. A light foam appears on the inside of the lid, which has a yellowish tint. Also, the presence of emulsion in the oil can be seen on the dipstick.

A large amount of coolant in the lubrication system will indicate a serious crack or burnout. In some cases, fluid can accumulate in the space above the piston, which makes it difficult to start the engine. Separately, it should be added that in such a situation there is also a high risk of water hammer. With minor coolant leaks, the emulsion on the cap may be present, while other signs will not be immediately noticeable.

Troubleshooting

You can more accurately determine the problem cylinder in the following ways:

• Remove the spark plugs and check their condition. The coolant has the property of "washing out" the spark plug in the faulty cylinder.
• Align the crankshaft so that the intake and exhaust valves are closed. Next, you need to supply compressed air through the candle hole, and then look into the expansion tank. An increase in the coolant level as a result of air supply will directly indicate a faulty cylinder.
• Remove the cylinder head to inspect the gasket and the adjacent surface of the head. If no defects are found, then the tightness of the head is checked under pressure;
• Perform cylinder diagnostics. To do this, the piston must be lowered to the BDC and the walls checked for cracks;
• Check intake manifold gasket. This is done if, in a particular internal combustion engine, such a gasket structurally serves to seal the coolant circulation channels.

Engine emits blue smoke

The engine begins to smoke blue or gray smoke if an excess amount of engine oil enters the cylinders. Such smoke may be blue, blue or have similar shades. Engine oil smoke is thicker. If you bring paper to the exhaust pipe, then greasy stains will remain on it.

The first sign that will indicate the cause of smoking is a significant overspending of oil (from 0.5 liters of oil per 1 thousand kilometers). In some cases, it is difficult to identify the problem only by the color of the exhaust. Diagnostics is complicated by the presence of a catalyst that cleans the exhaust gases.

Breakdown detection

Oil enters the combustion chamber both through the piston rings and through leaks between the valve stem and its guide sleeve. In the first case, wear occurs. The list of possible problems includes:

• worn out compression and oil scraper rings;
• the development of grooves of the rings in the piston itself;
• change in the shape of the cylinder walls, wear of the walls;
• the presence of scoring on the walls of the cylinders;

The wear of the CPG elements often coincides with the fact that the compression in the engine decreases. It is also possible to increase the pressure of crankcase gases. It should be added that in case of slight wear of parts, the engine will smoke blue smoke only when it is “cold”. With the heating of the motor and the thermal expansion of the parts, the gaps between the parts in the cylinder can become relatively normal. As a result, the motor smokes less noticeably or the smoke disappears completely. If the wear of the CPG is significant, then as the engine warms up, it will smoke more strongly, as the heated oil liquefies and enters the combustion chamber more actively. The thermal expansion of parts with heavy wear can no longer compensate for the increased gaps.

The appearance of black smoke indicates that the engine is running on a too rich air-fuel mixture. The color of the smoke can be from dark gray to black. This shade of the exhaust is given by soot particles, which appear due to violations in the efficiency of fuel combustion. If the engine smokes black exhaust, then problems with the fuel supply system are likely.

Such a malfunction has a number of direct and indirect signs:

• difficult start of the internal combustion engine;
• increased fuel consumption;
• power loss;
• failure of the catalyst, etc.;

Possible reasons

Use of anti-wear, anti-smoke and other additives to reduce oil consumption. Pros and cons after applying the additive to the engine.

Blue diesel exhaust, malfunctions and causes of blue diesel exhaust. Wear of the cylinder-piston group, compression, diesel fuel supply.