the report was made during the maintenance of the Passat B6 with a motor BMP. But this instruction is suitable for the vast majority of cars on the same platform.
replacing a timing belt on a diesel engine is a very responsible job, and mistakes are fraught with expensive consequences. However, there is nothing in this procedure that a person with arms growing from the right place could not do. With a tool, of course 🙂
It displays the synchronization of the shafts, their position relative to each other. Ideally (and from the factory) the discrepancy is " 0 “But it can change. Not because the belt is stretched (this is a myth), but as a result of its wear, wear of the rollers and gears. VAG approval determined in +/- 6 degrees, in fact, at 3, anomalies in the operation of the motor are already beginning to be observed. All this I mean is that without special clamps it is better not to start.
The replacement procedure is as follows:
Disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter housing
Unscrew the bolts and remove the filter
We snap off the latch, unscrew the clamp of the air line, remove it
Loosen the bolt securing the washer bottle neck
Disconnect the connector from the expansion tank, unscrew the two screws
Set the tank aside
Remove the right wheel, remove the lower fender liner
If a pump replacement is also planned, remove the lower pipe from the radiator, drain the antifreeze
When carrying out work at the service station, the motor must be hung on a special traverse. But it can also be replaced with a large wooden block placed under the pallet.
Raising and lowering the body itself (for example, with a jack), you can also change the tilt of the engine relative to the body.
We unscrew the bolts of the engine mount, remove it
Having lowered the motor, we unscrew the lower bolt of the bracket, the counterpart of the support.
Raising the motor, unscrew the two upper bolts
Remove the bracket may interfere with the pipes of the air conditioner
So that they do not interfere, you can unscrew one self-tapping screw that fixes these pipes relative to the body
The bracket can now be removed
With a key of 17 we cock the auxiliary belt tensioner
You can fix it in this position with a pin or drill with a diameter of 5.9 mm
We unscrew the bolts securing the tensioner, remove it
We pre-set TDC. To do this, rotate the crankshaft until the risk on the ribbed belt pulley matches the mark on the casing
- unscrew the accessory belt drive pulley
We remove the pulley, under it we see the bolts of the casing
Another bolt a little higher
We remove the casing, we see the belt and all the rollers
Insert fasteners:
Insert the retainer into the slot located in the lower left third of the camshaft gear
It must pass through the gear and fall into the reciprocal recess in the head of the block
We put a toothed lock on the crankshaft gear. We make sure that the arrows on the latch and the gear coincide
And the protrusion on the back of the latch fell into the reciprocal recess
We unscrew the three bolts on the camshaft gear for a couple of turns
We unscrew the nut of the belt tension roller, weaken the tension
Now the belt can be removed
unscrew the bottom roller
We unscrew the three bolts securing the pump (if it is planned to be replaced)
We take out the pump, along the way, antifreeze is drained from the block.
It is advisable to lower the engine itself in order to merge more
Clean and degrease the pump bore prior to reassembly.
We install the pump, screw in the bolts and tighten with force 20Nm
We fasten the lower roller, and tighten it with force 20 Nm
Before installing the tensioner pulley, pay attention to where the latch nose should go. This is a recess in a plastic casing, under the camshaft gear
We put the roller on the hairpin, but do not rush to insert it all the way, approximately to the middle
We turn the camshaft gear in the grooves counterclockwise until it stops
We put on the timing belt, but not immediately on the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe gears, but on the edge
With your fingers, we press the belt alternately deeper onto the gears, while moving the roller on the pin closer to the block
With a flat screwdriver, preferably with a slot, we rest against the nose, designed to fix the roller,
And push it counterclockwise
When the protrusion is opposite the recess, push the roller to the stop and screw on the nut
-(on a completely cold engine!) inserting the hexagon 6 into the recess on the roller, we begin to rotate it clockwise
First, with a few reciprocating movements, we seat the belt, then we make sure that the indicator arrow is opposite the slot
Tighten the nut with force 20Nm
Now you need to tighten the nuts on the camshaft gear. But at the same time, the gear must be held. For example, for these purposes I welded such a device
Holding the gear from displacement, tighten the bolts with force 25 Nm
We take out the clamps, turn the crankshaft a few turns, insert the camshaft clamp again
And make sure that the lower retainer falls on both the teeth and the hole in the cover
If there are discrepancies, we unscrew the three bolts on the camshaft gear, and, without removing the upper retainer, we shift the crankshaft so that the retainer nose still falls into the recess
Having achieved complete coincidence, we check again the belt tension indication
We take out the clamps
Screw the bottom of the belt cover
We fasten the ribbed belt drive pulley
Attaching the bracket to the block
We fasten the support first to the bracket, following the old tracks (the motor is slightly raised)
We lower the engine (we fasten the support to the body)
We collect the rest of the little things, start the engine
We warm up, connect the VAG-com, check the synchronization of the shafts
VAG itself gives a tolerance of +/-6 °. But practice shows that it is necessary to strive for "0". Then the start is the best, and the flow rate is optimal. Even the original latches do not guarantee hitting "0" the first time. You should not be afraid of this, even after starting the motor for fine adjustment, you will not need to disassemble everything again. It is only necessary to get to the camshaft gear, and using the gear indicator
to achieve the need to shift the gear relative to the hub
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a few words about the need to replace the pump. On Golfs of the 4th generation, on pumps driven by a timing belt, plastic impellers often collapsed. And this happened approximately on runs of about 150,000m, aakurat between belt changes. Therefore, a preventive measure appeared - replacing the pump with the belt removed, and a substitute with a steel impeller was chosen.
Meanwhile, VAG itself, I think, took action and made changes either to the design or to the material of the impeller, but in practice I personally have never had to change faulty pumps on Golfs 5.6 or 7th generation, and cars with one base .
At the same time, I cannot but note a sharp drop in the quality of pumps from third-party manufacturers. Whom to give preference to is a big question. Therefore, if you still have only the first timing change, you can not touch the pump, if the second and further - try to find money for the original 🙂
For the operation of the car to be effective, it is necessary to regularly carry out routine procedures to examine its condition. In the list of these procedures, a special place is occupied by an examination of the state of the timing mechanism in general and its drive in particular. When the belt runs out of its resource, it must be changed. Sometimes this is done a little earlier than the deadline established by the regulations. This procedure can be performed at any car service. But we recommend doing it yourself, in order to gain the necessary experience. In this article, we will talk about self-replacement of the timing belt drive for the Volkswagen Passat b6 2.0.
When replacement becomes necessary
The manual provides for the replacement of the belt drive on this brand of car after 90,000 km. But do not forget to check its condition, as it may break. If this happens, then get ready for the fact that the car will have to be seriously repaired, while spending a lot of money. As a result of a broken belt, the synchronization of the movement of the shafts will no longer be performed, and this almost always leads to a collision of valves and pistons. In this case, the valves will inevitably bend, and the pistons and cylinders will also be damaged.
How is the belt made? This is a rubber hoop, on the inside of which there are teeth. With their help, the drive engages with the sprockets. Quality rubber reinforced with durable fiberglass threads. But what reasons should definitely prompt the car owner to replace the old belt with a new one:
- the surface is cracked or obvious traces of scuffs are visible;
- the teeth are worn and worn;
- the ends were disheveled and individual threads became visible;
- the structure of the belt began to delaminate;
- traces of engine oil are visible on the surface.
By the way, some other consumables will have to be replaced along with the belt. In particular, if oil stains are visible on the belt, then the oil seal should definitely be replaced, because the presence of oil smudges indicates that it no longer provides sealing. Oil is very dangerous for the belt, as it corrodes its structure. Gaskets should also be replaced immediately. Assess the condition of the tension roller. This consumable will need to be replaced if there is a backlash on it.
We change the drive ourselves
So, make sure that all the necessary consumables are purchased and working tools are prepared. It is best to place the car on a viewing ditch and put it on the brakes. Work should only be carried out when the engine is completely cold or warm. It is better to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery so that the car is completely de-energized. But what tools we need to carry out repairs of this complexity:
- a set of keys;
- heads;
- screwdrivers with different types of tips;
- rags;
- jack;
- wrench, with which the crankshaft pulley is removed.
When everything is prepared, you can proceed to the phased implementation of work.
1. The first step is to remove the air purifier.
2. Remove the right wheel. After that, we put a support under the car body.
3. We dismantle the drives of the air conditioner and generator. In order not to be mistaken when you install these products, it is better to put marks on them that will indicate the direction of movement. This is important, because if you put the belts on the contrary, then their teeth wear off very quickly.
4. Using a spanner wrench, loosen the tension of the tension roller. We are looking for the combined holes of the tension and bypass rollers and insert a metal rod through them.
5. Now we dismantle the upper part of the cover that closes the timing mechanism. It is held on by two latches that will have to be snapped off.
6. Scroll the bolt securing the crankshaft pulley to the right until the marks are completely aligned. The marks on the crankshaft pulley and casing, on the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley, on the cylinder head and camshaft pulley, and also on the flywheel and casing should converge.
7. We proceed to remove the crankshaft pulley. To do this, you will have to unscrew the bolt of its fastening.
8. Scroll the tensioner to the left and remove the timing drive. Note that the shafts must not be rotated after the drive has been removed. Otherwise, labels will fail.
9. Change the tension roller to a new one. Of course, this should only be done when necessary. If you yourself cannot assess his condition, then invite a specialist for this purpose.
10. We begin to pull on a new belt.
11. Now we stretch the new drive with the help of a tension roller, after which we check the alignment of the marks again.
12. The remaining assembly work must be carried out in reverse order.
It will not be superfluous to remind once again about the need for accurate alignment of marks. If you cannot guarantee this, then it is better for you not to undertake this work, since improper alignment will certainly lead to engine malfunctions.
When the work is completed, it remains only to check its implementation. To do this, turn on the engine and listen to how it works. If there are no extraneous noises, then everything is done correctly.
Video option
The instruction is suitable for petrol engines 2.0 l FSI (BLR/BLX/BLY), 2.0 TFSI (AXX/BWA) and 1.6 (BSE).
Withdrawal
2. Switch off ignition and disconnect a negative wire from the storage battery.
3. Remove the engine top cover (see )
6. Remove the hood stops, and hang the engine with a special lifting device.
8. Remove noise insulation and locker of the right front wheel.
10. Turn out 4 bolts of fastening of a pulley of a cranked shaft with a vibration damper.
15. Separate the lines of the A/C system from the body (do not open the lines!).
16. Raise the engine so that you can unscrew the bolt 2 (see illustration 22. 12 above), and then even more so that you can remove the engine support.
18. Mark the direction of the belt if it is to be reused.
19. Loosen the tension roller and remove the timing belt.
20. Slightly turn a cranked shaft back.
Installation
Note: On TFSI engines, the diamond plate behind the crankshaft sprocket must be replaced after removal.
21. Put the timing belt on the crankshaft pulley. Note: If a belt that has already been used is installed, pay attention to the mark indicating the direction of its movement.
22. Attach the lower timing belt cover with the two lower bolts.
23. Establish a pulley of a cranked shaft and tighten new bolts of its fastening.
25. Put the timing belt on the tension roller, on the camshaft gear, water pump and finally on the intermediate roller. Note: Make sure that the tension roller is correctly positioned on the cylinder head.
27. Then slightly loosen the belt tension so that the mark (see illustration 22.26 above) lines up with the indicator.
28. Tighten the fixing nut to 25 Nm.
29. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full turns, returning it to the position corresponding to the TDC of the piston of the first cylinder. It is important that at least 1/8 turn (45") of rotation is continuous (non-stop).
30. Again check the tension of the toothed belt (the mark must be aligned with the indicator) and the timing phase. If the TDC marks do not match, repeat the adjustment.
31. Install the timing belt top cover.
34. Tighten the bottom bolt to 45 Nm and lower the engine.
35. Install the engine support assembly and remove the lifting tool.
36. Install the accessory drive belt (See Section 21).
37. Install the expansion tank of the cooling system, dock its connector.
38. Connect a ventilation hose and a fuel hose.
39. Install a locker and noise insulation.
40. Install the hood stops, connect the negative cable to the battery, and install the engine top cover.
The list of regulated operations that must be performed for the efficient operation of the car includes replacing the timing belt. This operation will be performed at any car service, but if you want to save money, it is better to master it yourself. The article provides step-by-step instructions on how to replace the timing belt with a Volkswagen Passat B3 and B5, as well as a photo gallery and a corresponding video.
When is it time to change?
Replacing the timing belt with a Volkswagen Passat B5 and B3 is carried out according to the recommendations specified in the manual, after 60,000 - 90,000 km of run. But at the same time, you should regularly monitor its condition, as a belt breakage is possible. This can have dire consequences in the form of bent valves and damaged pistons, as they meet and damage each other when they break.
The timing belt has the form of a rubber rim with an inner surface in the form of teeth that serve for better grip. The decision on the need to replace the belt is made after a visual inspection. The product must be replaced if the following defects are found:
- cracks and abrasions on the surface;
- teeth are worn, torn, have signs of wear;
- sidewalls are frayed;
- the material is stratified;
- there are oil marks on both surfaces.
During the inspection, attention should be paid to other details of the timing, if any shortcomings are identified, they must be changed. Together with the timing belt, it is advisable to change the tensioner.
Replacement consumables
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Replacement process
Before changing the timing belt for the Volkswagen Passat B5, B6 and B3, it is necessary to prepare a place for work. It is more convenient to carry out the replacement on the inspection ditch. The car must be set to the handbrake.
Required Tools
To work, you need to prepare the following tools:
Stages
- Turn off the power to the car by disconnecting the negative terminal.
- Next, the air cleaner is dismantled.
- Having raised the front of the car with a jack, you need to remove the right front wheel and support it with a support.
- Then you need to remove the belts of the air conditioner and generator. On the removed products, you need to put marks of the direction in which they rotated in order to install them in the same way during installation.
- Having taken the tensioner as far as possible to the side with the ring wrench, the tension should be loosened. Then you need to insert the rod into the aligned holes of the tension and support rollers and remove.
- Next, snap off the two latches and remove the upper part of the timing cover.
- Then you need to set all the labels correctly. To do this, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt clockwise until the marks on the crankshaft pulleys and the timing cover, the promshaft gear and the crankshaft pulley, on the cylinder head and the camshaft pulley, as well as on the crankshaft flywheel and housing are aligned.
Flywheel mark alignment - Next, the crankshaft pulley is removed.
- After turning the tensioner counterclockwise and loosening the fixing nut, remove. After that, the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated so as not to knock down the marks.
- Now you can change the tension roller.
- A new consumable is installed sequentially on the pulleys, first the crankshaft, then the wash shaft, and lastly on the camshaft pulley. After installation, tension is performed using a tension roller and the marks are checked for coincidence.
- When the belt is installed, assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Details of the gas distribution mechanism
It is important that the marks are correctly set, otherwise the valves can be bent when the engine is turned on.
After the final assembly, you need to check the operation of the engine. Replacement on Passat B6 is carried out similar to B5.
