Rear hub: functions and replacement instructions. How to change the front and rear wheel bearing with your own hands Change the rear hub of the VAZ 2110

The wheel bearing is one of the most important components of the running gear of a car. Sooner or later, every car owner faces the question of the need to replace this element due to its failure or the end of its service life. You should figure out how to diagnose a malfunction of the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ-2110 and replace it correctly.

The manufacturer recommends changing these parts every 100 thousand kilometers traveled by the car, but only in rare cases do they fully consume their resource. Much more often they come into a faulty state about 1.5-2 times faster. In many ways, the wear rate depends on the road conditions in which the car is operated, as well as on the driving style of its owner. Naturally, a lot depends on the quality of the bearing itself.

Symptoms

The wheel bearing has a large margin of safety, but since the loads constantly experienced by it during movement are very large, sooner or later it wears out to such an extent that it loses its performance. Tightening with the replacement of a faulty wheel bearing should not be done, as this threatens that it will fall apart while driving. This will inevitably lead to instant blocking of the wheel, which, when driving at a sufficiently high speed, very often becomes the cause of a serious accident.

Even if you are lucky not to get into an accident, operating the machine with a non-working hub bearing will gradually lead to the failure of the entire rack, and replacing it is a much more complicated and expensive process.

The malfunctioning condition of the wheel bearing can be judged by the appearance of extraneous sounds during movement - knocks or hums from the side where the faulty part is located, which after a while, if no measures are taken, turn into vibration, giving both to the steering wheel and to the body part . This sign is already fraught with a serious threat - if it comes to vibration, in the near future we can expect the collapse of the "killed" bearing with all the problems associated with it.

Diagnostic procedure

Self-checking the wheel bearing is carried out in the following order. It should, in turn, jacking up the left and right sides of the vehicle, spin the wheels.

Having found a wheel that makes a hum when rotating, it should be shaken in different directions. As a rule, backlash is quickly detected. In some cases this is caused by a loose hub nut. To exclude this possibility, it should be tightened with a torque wrench and locked. If the play and extraneous noise have not disappeared, the wheel bearing should be replaced.

Since the VAZ-2110 has been out of production for quite some time, it cannot be under warranty. This car is not equipped with too complex electronics, unlike many foreign cars. Therefore, having the right tool and some skills, you can replace the wheel bearing on the "top ten" yourself.

Selecting a new part

It is not difficult to buy a new wheel bearing now, but since the choice of any parts is very rich, it can be difficult to decide on the manufacturer. It can be advised to give preference to an element produced in Russia. The quality of bearings made in China is inferior to domestic ones, and you should refrain from buying them.

Replacement procedure

It should be noted that the hub nut is tightened very tightly, and it is difficult to move it. To facilitate this task, you can use a metal pipe as a lever. A chisel and pry bar may also come in handy - it's best to keep them nearby. It is very good if an experienced motorist helps to independently replace this element for the first time.

This procedure is performed in the following order. First of all, the car should be put in a garage equipped with a viewing hole. If this is not possible, then you need to find a flat area for repair work. Then turn on the first gear with the gearshift lever, and put wheel chocks under the front wheels (ordinary bricks will do). Having done this, using the “balloon” wrench, you should slightly loosen the wheel bolts and raise the side on which the wheel bearing will be changed with a jack.

Then the fixing bolts are unscrewed to the end, and the wheel is removed from the axle. The guide pins are unscrewed and the brake drum is removed.

If you can’t do it right away, you should take a hammer and, applying a small plank to the drum, knock it around the circumference.

If tapping does not work, you can try to wrap the pins in their place - sometimes the drum moves away after that. In the event that all methods are ineffective, the part must be dismantled with a puller, however, there is a serious risk of damage to it. If this happens, the brake drum will also need to be replaced with a new one.

The hub nut is unscrewed using a socket wrench and (if necessary) a metal pipe.

The hub nut is removed from the trunnion using a puller

You can try to remove the hub without a puller. To do this, you need to put the removed wheel back in place, and then pull it sharply (but you don’t need to be too zealous, otherwise the car will fall off the jack)

In case of luck, the bearing is removed together with the inner ring. If it remains in place, then in order to dismantle it, you need to use a small puller.

If the ring is stuck, then it must be moved with a chisel and a pry bar, and then use a tie rod.

The retaining ring is removed using special tongs or pliers, after which the anther is knocked off (it can not be removed if the bearing is dismantled by knocking out).

Then the bearing is pressed out (or simply knocked out).

The old lubricant should be removed by laying in its place a new one. Then a new bearing is pressed in (according to the rules, this should be done using a puller, but if it is not available, the outer race of the element to be replaced is also suitable).

Sometimes, before the upcoming trip, passengers have to hear such expressions “the main thing is that the wheels do not fly off”, but in fact no one puts a serious meaning into these words, but in vain.

This may well happen! Poor fasteners and worn parts do not have the best effect on ensuring safe movement, so it is very important to identify and fix the problem in time, even if, at first glance, it seems insignificant. So, for example, many drivers do not treat wheel bearing diagnostics with due responsibility, despite the fact that this particular part is an important element of the rotating mechanism of an automobile wheel. About the characteristic signs of a broken hub and how to replace it, we will tell you in today's article.

1. How can I find out about problems in the hub?

The hub is an important part of any vehicle. It has a hole created to allow it to fit on an axle or shaft, and the main purpose of this part is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the wheel, due to which the latter starts to rotate and the car starts to move. Along with the hub, an equally important element of the chassis assembly is the hub bearing, presented in the form of a double-row ball or single-row roller bearing. Together they are aimed at maintaining safety measures in the process of driving a car, so it is clear that the failure of any of their parts cannot guarantee this.

Today, the rear wheel hubs of any car are subjected to significant vertical and axial loads, and on vehicles with rear or four-wheel drive, a lot of torque is added to this.

Unconsciously, the owner of the car himself in the process of replacing wheels can contribute to the rapid wear of the hub bearing. When tightening the fastening bolts, you can not calculate the force and break them, but this does not mean at all that you should not fix the rim well. In this case, it is important to find a "golden mean" and then you do not have to think about the possible consequences. To tighten the bolts, it is best to use an electric wrench, as it better "feels" the limit of permissible force.

Affects the rapid wear of the bearing assembly (rear wheel) and moisture with dust that enters it from the road. Penetrating into the hub, the dust works as an abrasive substance, gradually squeezing out the lubricant through the sealing parts, as a result of which the hub bearing is destroyed by heat.

It is not difficult to notice the need to replace the wheel bearing, this will be reported to you by a characteristic knock coming from the rear of the body, which intensifies when driving on rough roads or when hitting bumps and pits. If the car is moving on a flat surface, there is a hum and, although it is not noticeable, the brake drum is very hot. Also, when turning the steering wheel, uncharacteristic braking is quite often noticeable - another sure sign of a bearing malfunction.

Usually, to determine the cause of a bearing failure, only a visual inspection is not enough, the condition of neighboring parts, the amount (quality) of lubricant and the conditions of use of the vehicle should also be taken into account.

Among the main factors affecting the failure of the rear hub bearing, there are:

Reducing the resource of parts due to long-term operation in extreme conditions (the average service life of this type of bearing is calculated at about 1,000,000 km, which in reality often does not correspond to this indicator);

Unreliability of lubricants: their excess (lack) or poor quality (70% of cases);

Contamination, when moisture or solid particles of various debris get inside the part (18% of cases);

Incorrect wheel mounting: incorrect adjustment, use of excessive force, overtightening of the hub, overheating, inaccurate clearance, etc. To avoid costly breakdowns and take precautions, manufacturers recommend checking wheel bearings every time you change brake pads, regardless of the age of the vehicle.

2. Check if the rear wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced

Most often, there are only two reasons for the failure of the rear wheel hub bearing: the poor quality of the road surface (in some places it is generally difficult to call it expensive) and the poor quality of the materials of the part itself. In these cases, when signaling signs of the need to replace the rear hub appear, it is worth it. This process is simple, so you can do it yourself, at home. But before starting work, you should know for sure whether the whole thing is a faulty bearing, or perhaps there is another reason.

To do this, you will have to use a jack and raise the rear axle. After that, the wheel, in which the rumble is heard, is rotated and swayed to check the play. If it is detected, and when performing rotational movements, a dull tapping or crunching is heard, the bearing should be changed immediately, since falling apart during the movement of the car, it can damage the rest of the hub system.

One of the criteria for success when replacing a rear wheel hub bearing is the quality of the new part. All those who like to buy "cheaper" should remember the saying "The miser pays twice." Demanding from a cheap and low-quality bearing for many years of good service is definitely not worth it, and it is quite possible that you will soon have to make a similar purchase again (God forbid, that only this part).

3. Step by step instructions for replacing the rear hub bearing

At the preliminary stage of the replacement, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools. It includes: a jack, a set of screwdrivers, a wheel wrench, a hub nut puller, lithol, a pry bar and a chisel (the latter may not be useful, but it is better to have it on hand).

The immediate replacement phase includes the following points:

Having put the car in first gear, use a jack (lift) to raise its rear part and unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the desired wheel from the hub (in the case of using a jack, so that the car does not roll in front, special supports called “boots” should be placed under the front wheels »);

Having unscrewed the guide pins, they remove the brake drum (although they usually just knock it down), followed by the brake pads;

The hub fastening nut is unscrewed with a special puller (before that, the plug is removed from it), and the hub itself is knocked off the trunnion. It must be removed together with the bearing ring, and if this did not work out, then this part is dismantled with a chisel and a mount during gouging and pulling out. This process is quite lengthy, so be patient;

pressing out the old bearing. To do this, use special tongs to remove the retaining ring, and then knock down the metal boot. If, in the course of the “spiritual” work of the hammer and chisel, the edges of the hub were badly beaten off, then in addition to a new bearing, it is worth purchasing a new hub, so the further proper operation of the “crippled” is in doubt;

A new (or old) hub is lubricated with lithol and a replaced bearing is pressed into it using a special puller. Notice! It is very undesirable to hammer it with a hammer, in order to avoid damage.

The anther and retaining ring are installed in their original place;

The hub is put back on the trunnion, while tapping a little on the inner ring of the bearing, after which the trunnion is tightened, and its sides are jammed as best as possible;

Ultimately, the brake pads, drum, and finally the wheel itself are installed in their places. There are also a number of recommendations for obtaining the optimal result of the work:

To avoid damage to the rear hub bearing seat, use only professional pullers specially designed for this, taking into account the desired cage diameter.

Various types of presses are used to improve the process of installing a new bearing and seal. It is highly discouraged to use the impact method of pressing new parts (for example, with a hammer). This can damage the stuffing box seal and it will begin to leak lubricant, and will also create microcracks in the bearing cage, due to which it will heat up more and, accordingly, will fail faster.

The rear hub assembly should be assembled in the reverse order, after which, by bleeding, air is removed from the brake system and the parking brake is adjusted.

On some models, the rear hub bearing can only be replaced with the hub.

It is better to immediately change the wheel bearings of both rear wheels, since they are subject to the same load and wear out in the same way.

During the movement of the car, a specific hum may occur, changing the tone to low at low speeds or noise with a possible rattle at high speed. Such troubles can create a hub bearing. The performance characteristics laid down by the manufacturer should allow the driver not to think about this wheel element for a long time.

However, road realities make their own correction. The primary reason a rear hub bearing needs to be replaced is not physical wear, but mechanical deformation. The driver does not have time to notice all the holes on the road, and for the failure of vulnerable parts, it is enough to get into only one of them.

A constant rumble from the rear wheels should alert the driver, and it is necessary to stop in the nearest place and check the bearing's performance. The term of its high-quality work is usually about 100 thousand kilometers. While approaching such a parameter, you need to start diagnosing their condition.

For this to work, you will need to do the following:

• required lock the wheels located diagonally to the ones being diagnosed, because you need to check on both sides, since in the cabin it is not always clear where the noise is coming from;
• jacked up spin the wheel as much as possible hands until a familiar rumble is heard, usually a characteristic problematic sound is noticeable almost immediately, because a high-quality bearing works without rattle, crunch and buzz;
• on a doubtful wheel, it is worth checking the transverse play using a simple procedure, holding the wheel, you need to shake it away from you and towards you, and the presence of a noticeable movement is an indication for replacing the bearing.

You need to know that most car dealerships offer a hub assembly with a bearing, but if the bore diameter has no wear or deformation, then you can not change the hub, but buy a separate repair bearing.

Replacement procedure

Before changing the rear wheel bearing, we block the car with the help of wheel chocks. We loosen the fasteners on the diagnosed wheel. Also, having got rid of the central cap, we release the central nut by 1-2 turns. Now you can jack up this side.

We install safety racks under the body and remove the wheel. The seat of the brake drum can be filled with WD-40 to facilitate dismantling. In some cases, brake fluid or diesel fuel is used. Before unscrewing the guide bolts, they are usually tapped with a copper hammer so that the “sticky” thread “succumbs”.

Dismantle the brake drum. In problematic cases, a special remover is used for such an operation, and for easier situations, bolts are screwed into the thread intended for them, with their help an interference is created for removal.

Step 1. Remove the cap Step 2. Unscrew the nut with a puller Step 3. Remove the hub with a puller Step 4. We take out the ring and prepare the bearing Step 5. Press the bearing with a puller Step 6. Mount the hub back Step 7. Rolling the Nut

Remove the central nut and stretch the entire hub along the axis. Sometimes a bearing race remains on the shaft, then using a puller or chisel, dismantle it separately after the hub. We carry out the operation so as not to damage the landing surface.

We inspect the axle to detect rotation of the bearing cage. If there are such traces (the presence of grooves on the landing diameter), then the hub will also have to be changed.

You need to know that the formation of serifs with a chisel or a breakdown on a worn surface for a more rigid fit of the bearing race is strictly unacceptable! It is necessary to change the worn hub completely in such a situation!

The current replacement of the rear wheel bearing can be carried out with concomitant diagnostics of other elements. It is worth simultaneously checking the brake cylinder for leaks, and the brake pads are monitored for wear.

Using a removable tool, we take out the retaining ring, and if necessary, fill in special cleaning fluid under it to make the bearing easier to press out. It is customary to use one of three popular methods for dismantling the outer race from the hub:

1. using a hydraulic press, which is not found in every garage;
2. reusable puller, its cost is affordable, and you can use the unit in the future;
3. with a hammer or sledgehammers 2-3 kg, for this method a special spacer of the appropriate diameter is required.

We install the hub on a hard surface and apply a couple of blows on the prepared mandrel with a hammer. This is done carefully so as not to damage the seating surface with a mandrel or other parts with a heavy hammer.

The surface freed from the clip can be cleaned with fine sandpaper from possible corrosion spots and then lubricated with oil (working off is allowed). It will facilitate the installation of a new bearing, which must first be assembled using two washers and a bolt. The outer diameter of the washers should be 2-3 mm smaller than the bearing diameter.

Lubricants can be added to the double row separator before assembly. With the help of a hammer, preferably with a copper or bronze ending, lightly tap on opposite sides to "plant" the bearing.

You need to know that bearings are made from high-alloy steel, which can crumble under strong dynamic loads (sharp impacts), so it is recommended to use a “soft” copper or bronze spacer so as not to damage the cages.

If at the initial stage the entry turns out to be tight, then there is probably a bias, so it is worth leveling it with light blows, and not applying unnecessary force. When the new clip comes in half, the old one can be used as a spacer. We continue until the groove for the retaining ring appears. We fix the bearing with a ring.

Hub mounting

We get rid of the tightening device from the bolt and two washers. Now you can return the hub to its place. Be sure to install a new central nut, having previously lubricated the thread with "lithol" or other lubricant.

We install the brake drum on the fasteners. We put the wheel and fix it with fixing bolts. We turn the wheel "by hand" and listen to extraneous noise. The absence of a hum or rattle, as well as free rotation, indicates the correct assembly.

We lower the wheel with a jack, and only after that we carry out the final tightening of the central nut. It is recommended to use a torque wrench for this operation. The preload value should be close to 20 kg/m. This value is quite large, so without a special key, you will need to increase the key length. Now the hook can be centered and the mounting bolts on the wheel can be tightened to the required torque.

The rear hub bearing VAZ 2109 can be changed in several ways. The quality of the repair depends on the "correct" choice. Below you will find detailed instructions describing each method. You can decide for yourself which is closer to you. At the service station you will not be asked what is best, and they will do it their own way. This is a good reason to delve into the "topic" and make a replacement yourself, especially since such repairs are within the power of everyone.

Causes and symptoms of the need for replacement

The rear wheel doesn't need to turn, so the mounting system is quite simple. The bearing, tightly pressed into the hub, rotates on the shaft. Backlash is not allowed in the design, and rotation must be smooth.

A good wheel bearing usually lasts at least 100 thousand km, but the quality of the roads makes its own adjustments. The main enemies are holes and dirt. A strong blow can damage the part very quickly. Do not forget about natural wear and tear.

Such damage is hard to miss. While driving, you will hear a clear howl or hum in the rear of the car (intensifies in turns). For a more “targeted” check, you need to jack up the rear wheel and spin it strongly (if possible). If you hear noise during rotation, it's time to change. Knocks during transverse "stirring" mean an extreme degree of wear. In the latter case, do not delay the repair.

Check both wheels. By ear, it is not always possible to correctly determine the side. We found a breakdown, now we move on to preparation.

Necessary tool for work on the VAZ 2109

The complexity and speed of repair directly depend on whether you have a special tool. There is a minimum required set:

• a hammer (where would it be without it) and a wooden block or a small board;
• pliers for removing retaining rings (an alternative is an awl or a thin screwdriver);
• key or head for 12;
• head 30 with a knob (to unscrew it easier, extend the knob with a pipe).

To speed up additionally use:

• three-legged puller for the hub;
• two-legged puller for the inner race of the bearing;
• universal puller for pressing in / pressing out;
• chisel.

For alternative methods without the use of pullers, see further in the instructions.

When choosing a bearing, pay attention to the Saratov bearings with the SPZ marking and the Vologda bearings (VBF). Bearings from Samara are notorious, and imported ones are not worth the extra money. Therefore, the first two options are the best combination of price and quality.

How to replace the rear hub bearing: instructions

1. We will not describe the removal of the wheel. Most importantly, do not neglect your safety - substitute an additional stop under the threshold of the car (an unscrewed wheel, a stump, a special stand). Before removing, you need to remove the central plug and align the locking “shoulder” on the mounting nut (a flat screwdriver or a chisel will help). Now “tear off” the nut with a 30mm socket (turn counterclockwise). At this point, the wheel must be on the ground or an assistant is needed to press the brake pedal hard.

   "Tear off" the nut Straighten the bead Remove the cap

2. The next step is to remove the brake drum. There are possible complications here. During operation, it often "sticks". Immediately unscrew the guides, then screw them into adjacent holes of the same diameter and continue to twist until the disk moves.
3. If it “does not go” or the thread is broken, then knock down the drum with blows from the back side. Use a rubber mallet or a mallet along with a block of wood to avoid chipping.
4. Now you have direct access to the hub. Unscrew the nut completely and remove the washer from under it.
5. There are three ways to remove the hub from the seat:
   • If you're lucky, you can take it off with your hands. Pull jerkily towards you or use the pry bar as a lever. Bad luck? See below.
   • Screw two long (15–20 cm) bolts into the wheel mounting points. Screw them in until the hub moves from the “dead” point (in the fourth step, you removed the brake drum in a similar way).
   • Use a special three-arm puller.
6. If you screw the drum to the hub with the reverse side (photo below), then you can apply more force.

   Improving the grip Three-arm puller Using long bolts

7. After the withdrawal, you will also have several options for the development of events. Good - the bearing was removed completely, bad - the inner race remained on the shaft. In the latter case, you will have to fool around additionally. It is necessary to remove the brake pads and use a chisel to break the metal ring from its place. Now you can hook it with a puller with two paws or mounts (depending on what is available) and dismantle it. If notches remain after the chisel, they must be smoothed out with a file, otherwise the new bearing may not completely “sit down” in place.

   Repairing damage Mounting option Two-arm puller Using a chisel

8. To install a new part, you need to free up space. You can remove the defective bearing with a special puller or simply knock it out. In the second option, you need to choose a suitable emphasis.
   

   Do not forget to remove the retaining ring before "knocking out" or pressing out.

   You can beat without regret Use a special tool Pull out the retaining ring

9. If at the previous stage there was no point in protecting the bearing, then a new spare part should not be subjected to shock loads. Choose one of three pressing methods:
10. The hardest part is already over, it remains only to collect everything in the correct order. In order not to forget, immediately put the retaining ring in place. To fit the hub onto the shaft, use a spacer that fits the inner race of the bearing. With light blows of the hammer, “put” it in place. Just do not hit hard, the hub should "go in" easily. If not, clean and lubricate the seat.
11. Put the washer in place and tighten the nut by 30. Finally tighten it and tighten it when the wheel is on the ground. The rear hub is not adjustable, so you need to clamp hard, but with the presence of common sense (the wheel should spin freely).

No vehicle component is subjected to such a load as the chassis. Hence the large number of faults. A good example of this is the rear wheel bearing. According to the plan and calculations of the designers, it must serve regularly for at least 100,000 km. run. But domestic roads and improper operation make their own adjustments. Very often the bearing fails without having served even half of the resource.

In this case, you can not pull with a replacement. It's not even that a bad bearing will cause an even more serious malfunction. In this case, we are talking about security. No need to think that such complex repairs can only be done in a car service. It is quite possible to replace the rear wheel hub bearing yourself.

Symptoms and Causes

Consider how to check the rear wheel hub bearing. Unlike many others, this fault can be localized with almost 100% accuracy. And by virtue of this, it is not only experienced, but also novice motorists, if you know the characteristic signs. The main ones are:

• Extraneous noise while driving. It is often mistakenly confused with the "howl" of the box, but in this case the sound does not disappear even when switching to neutral.
• An unpleasant sound is especially noticeable in the back seat, from the side of the faulty wheel;
• When cornering, a clear braking of the faulty side is felt, and in especially severe cases, clicks are heard;
• Wheel heating while driving.

All these are indirect symptoms, upon hearing which the motorist should be alert and conduct a more detailed check. To do this, using a jack, hang a supposedly faulty wheel. Now you need to unroll it well.

We are looking for the most passable crossover - 10 applicants. Look

A hum is heard - bad, but not yet fatal. Grasping the wheel with your hands from above and below, you need to shake it vertically. If there is play - the bearing is in a landfill.

What is it coming from? Surprisingly, only a third of the bearings "die" from the natural wear of metal parts. The remaining two-thirds are due to the following reasons:

• Manufacturing defects;
• Severe operating conditions. For example, constant driving on country roads at high speed;
• Lack of timely service. As a rule, lack of lubrication and dust and dirt on the bearing;

In addition, there is another reason - incorrect installation during a previous repair. However, this can be easily avoided if, before self-replacing the rear wheel hub bearing, study the sequence of work in advance and focus on some details.

Do-it-yourself rear wheel bearing replacement

Any repair of the running gear of the car cannot be called simple. Not because it requires special education and special skills. The difficulty, first of all, lies in the complexity of the repair. Removing some parts requires decent effort and a lot of patience.

We must be prepared for this in advance. You can’t drive a car with a half-disassembled rear hub into a service. If the determination is not lost - first of all, you need to stock up on a tool.

Tools and accessories

To change the rear wheel hub bearing with your own hands, you will need:

• Jack and suitable wooden support;
• The socket wrench, as a rule, is 30 and a suitable piece of pipe, as an amplifier for the crank;
• Key 12, for disc guides;
• balloon wrench;
• Round-nose pliers for removing retaining rings;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Universal puller. You can do without it, but this requires some experience. Therefore, it is better to buy it, it is also suitable for the front hub bearing.
• Mount.
• And, of course, a new bearing. It does not need to be taken out of the package ahead of time to prevent dirt from entering.

How to change the rear wheel bearing on the VAZ 2110: sequence of actions

First you need to break the wheel bolts, and raise the car with a jack.

Attention, in no case should work be carried out on a car installed on one jack, it is imperative to additionally use a wooden stand of suitable dimensions.

This is due to the great effort that will have to be applied in the process of work. A car on a jack will be very unstable. The further course of action is as follows:

• The bolts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed;
• Now you can remove the hub boot.
• The wheel guides are unscrewed. Sometimes this is not easy to do, they "sour" in aluminum. The main thing here is not to disrupt the edges, so there is no need to rush;
• Next, the brake drums are removed. It all depends on how long they haven't been filmed. Sometimes they are dismantled "by hand", and sometimes you have to knock with a hammer, through a tree, from the back. There is another way. The guides are screwed into special holes. It must be borne in mind that the pins cannot be used to remove the discs, this will lead to the destruction of the aluminum thread. You can only twist them to a slight stretch, and then try to knock the disk through the tree. Should help.
• The hub nut is unscrewed. You'll have to try - it is twisted very tightly. Therefore, the collar is reinforced with a piece of a suitable pipe. Care must be taken as the vehicle will wobble.
• The hub is removed. Here, of course, it is better to use a three-legged puller. However, not everyone has it, so you have to use the "proletarian" method. It consists in the following. A wheel is installed on the hub and bolted, but not completely, but so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the disk and the hub. Thus, a kind of reverse hammer is obtained. With a few sharp jerks of the wheel, the hub can usually be removed. And that's already half the battle.
• Using round nose pliers inserted into the corresponding holes, the retaining ring is removed.
• The old bearing is pressed out or simply knocked out with a universal puller;
• The axis of the hub is carefully examined. Sometimes the clip of the old bearing remains on it. It needs to be removed. The bearing is removed, you can proceed to install a new one. But first you can inspect the working brake cylinder. If it has leaks, you will have to change it so as not to remove the drum again later.
• The axle and hub are inspected for damage, cleaned of dust, dirt and rust, and lubricated with Litol type grease.
• The new bearing is pulled out of the package, its cage is also easily lubricated along the seat;
• Using a universal puller, the bearing is installed in place. In the absence of a tool, the bearing can be pressed in with a vise. In this case, the clip of the old one is used as a mandrel. It is not recommended to hammer the bearing with a hammer, this can lead to its destruction.
• Now you can install the retaining ring;
• Carefully, using a mandrel or a pipe of suitable diameter, with light blows, the hub is put in place;
• Fixed with a nut;
• The brake drum is put in place, the guides are twisted;
• The wheel is spinning. For the sake of interest, it is worth trying to shake and twist it. There will be no extraneous sounds and backlash.

How to change the rear hub bearing on a VAZ 2110 video

Outcome

After removing the car from the stands and the jack, you can test it on the go. The enjoyment of silence and satisfaction from the work done will be provided. And most importantly, now there is confidence in the reliability and safety of your car.