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The most basic generator function – battery charge battery and power supply for engine electrical equipment.

Therefore, let's take a closer look generator circuit, how to connect it correctly, and also give some tips on how to check it yourself.

Generator- a mechanism that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. The generator has a shaft on which a pulley is mounted, through which it receives rotation from the engine crankshaft.

A car generator is used to power electrical consumers, such as the ignition system, on-board computer, car lighting, diagnostic system, and it is also possible to charge a car battery. The power of a passenger car generator is approximately 1 kW. Car generators are quite reliable in operation because they ensure uninterrupted operation of many devices in the car, and therefore the requirements for them are appropriate.

Generator device

The design of a car generator implies the presence of its own rectifier and control circuit. The generating part of the generator, using a stationary winding (stator), generates three-phase alternating current, which is then rectified by a series of six large diodes and the direct current charges the battery. Alternating current is induced by the rotating magnetic field of the winding (around the field winding or rotor). Next, the current is supplied to the electronic circuit through the brushes and slip rings.

Generator structure: 1.Nut. 2. Washer. 3.Pulley 4.Front cover. 5. Distance ring. 6.Rotor. 7.Stator. 8.Back cover. 9.Casing. 10. Gasket. 11.Protective sleeve. 12. Rectifier unit with capacitor. 13.Latch holder with voltage regulator.

The generator is located at the front of the car engine and is started using the crankshaft. The connection diagram and operating principle of a car generator are the same for any car. There are, of course, some differences, but they are usually associated with the quality of the manufactured product, the power and the layout of the components in the motor. All modern cars are equipped with alternating current generator sets, which include not only the generator itself, but also a voltage regulator. The regulator equally distributes the current in the excitation winding, and it is due to this that the power of the generator set itself fluctuates at a time when the voltage at the power output terminals remains unchanged.

New cars are most often equipped with an electronic unit on the voltage regulator, so the on-board computer can control the amount of load on the generator set. In turn, on hybrid cars the generator performs the work of the starter-generator; a similar circuit is used in other designs of the stop-start system.

The principle of operation of a car generator

Connection diagram for the VAZ 2110-2115 generator

Generator connection diagram AC includes the following components:

1. Battery.
2. Generator.
3. Fuse block.
4. Ignition.
5. Dashboard.
6. Rectifier block and additional diodes.

The principle of operation is quite simple: when the ignition is turned on plus through the lock, the ignition goes through the fuse box, light bulb, diode bridge and goes through a resistor to minus. When the light on the dashboard lights up, then the plus goes to the generator (to the excitation winding), then during the process of starting the engine, the pulley begins to rotate, the armature also rotates, due to electromagnetic induction, electromotive force is generated and alternating current appears.

The most dangerous thing for the generator is the short circuit of the heat sink plates connected to the “ground” and the “+” terminal of the generator by metal objects accidentally falling between them or conductive bridges formed by contamination.

Next, the diode passes plus into the rectifier block through a sine wave into the left arm, and minus into the right arm. Additional diodes on the light bulb cut off the negatives and only positives are obtained, then it goes to the dashboard assembly, and the diode that is there allows only the negative to pass through, as a result the light goes out and the positive then goes through the resistor and goes to the negative.

The principle of operation of a car DC generator can be explained as follows: a small direct current begins to flow through the excitation winding, which is regulated by the control unit and is maintained by it at a level of slightly more than 14 V. Most generators in a car are capable of generating at least 45 amperes. The generator operates at 3000 rpm and above - if you look at the ratio of the size of the fan belts for the pulleys, it will be two or three to one in relation to the engine frequency.

To avoid this, the plates and other parts of the generator rectifier are partially or completely covered with an insulating layer. The heat sinks are combined into a monolithic design of the rectifier unit mainly by mounting plates made of insulating material, reinforced with connecting bars.

Generator connection diagram for VAZ 2107

The VAZ 2107 charging scheme depends on what type of generator is used. To recharge the battery on cars such as VAZ-2107, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, which have a carburetor engine, you will need a G-222 type generator or its equivalent with a maximum output current of 55A. In turn, VAZ-2107 cars with an injection engine use a generator 5142.3771 or its prototype, which is called a high-energy generator, with a maximum output current of 80-90A. It is also possible to install more powerful generators with an output current of up to 100A. Absolutely all types of alternating current generators have built-in rectifier units and voltage regulators; they are usually made in the same housing with brushes or are removable and mounted on the housing itself.

The VAZ 2107 charging circuit has minor differences depending on the year of manufacture of the car. The most important difference is the presence or absence of a charge indicator lamp, which is located on the instrument panel, as well as the method of connecting it and the presence or absence of a voltmeter. Such circuits are mainly used on carburetor cars, while on cars with injection engines the circuit does not change, it is identical to those cars that were manufactured previously.

Generator set designations:

1. “Plus” of the power rectifier: “+”, V, 30, V+, WAT.
2. “Ground”: “-”, D-, 31, B-, M, E, GRD.
3. Excitation winding output: Ш, 67, DF, F, EXC, E, FLD.
4. Output for connection to the serviceability lamp: D, D+, 61, L, WL, IND.
5. Phase output: ~, W, R, STA.
6. Output of the stator winding zero point: 0, MP.
7. Output of the voltage regulator for connecting it to the on-board network, usually to the “+” of the battery: B, 15, S.
8. Voltage regulator output for powering it from the ignition switch: IG.
9. Voltage regulator output for connecting it to the on-board computer: FR, F.

Generator circuit VAZ-2107 type 37.3701

1. Accumulator battery.
2. Generator.
3. Voltage regulator.
4. Mounting block.
5. Ignition switch.
6. Voltmeter.
7. Battery charge indicator lamp.

When the ignition is turned on, the plus from the lock goes to fuse No. 10, and then goes to the battery charge indicator lamp relay, then goes to the contact and to the coil output. The second terminal of the coil interacts with the central terminal of the starter, where all three windings are connected. If the relay contacts close, then the control lamp lights up. When the engine starts, the generator generates current and an alternating voltage of 7V appears on the windings. A current passes through the relay coil and the armature begins to attract, and the contacts open. Generator No. 15 passes current through fuse No. 9. Similarly, the excitation winding receives power through the brush voltage generator.

Charging diagram for VAZ with injection engines

This scheme is identical to the schemes on other VAZ models. It differs from the previous ones in the method of exciting and monitoring the serviceability of the generator. It can be carried out using a special control lamp and a voltmeter on the instrument panel. Also, through the charge lamp, the generator is initially excited at the moment it starts working. During operation, the generator operates “anonymously,” that is, excitation comes directly from pin 30. When the ignition is turned on, power through fuse No. 10 goes to the charging lamp in the instrument panel. Then it goes through the mounting block to pin 61. Three additional diodes provide power to the voltage regulator, which in turn transmits it to the excitation winding of the generator. In this case, the indicator lamp will light up. It is at that moment when the generator operates on the plates of the rectifier bridge that the voltage will be much higher than that of the battery. In this case, the control lamp will not light up, because the voltage on its side on the additional diodes will be lower than on the side of the stator winding and the diodes will close. If the control lamp lights up while the generator is running, this may mean that additional diodes are broken.

Checking generator operation

There are several ways to use certain methods, for example: you can check the output current of the generator, the voltage drop on the wire that connects the current output of the generator to the battery, or check the regulated voltage.

To check, you will need a multimeter, a car battery and a lamp with soldered wires, wires for connecting between the generator and the battery, and you can also take a drill with a suitable head, since you may have to twist the rotor by the nut on the pulley.

Basic check with a light bulb and multimeter

Connection diagram: output terminal (B+) and rotor (D+). The lamp must be connected between the main output of the generator B+ and contact D+. After this, we take the power wires and connect the “minus” to the negative terminal of the battery and to the generator ground, the “plus”, respectively, to the plus of the generator and to the B+ output of the generator. We fix it on a vice and connect it.

“Ground” must be connected very last so as not to short-circuit the battery.

We turn on the tester in DC mode, attach one probe to the battery to “plus”, and the second one too, but to “minus”. Next, if everything is in working order, then the light should light up, the voltage in this case will be 12.4V. Then we take a drill and start turning the generator, accordingly, the light bulb will stop burning at this moment, and the voltage will already be 14.9V. Then we add a load, take an H4 hologen lamp and hang it on the battery terminal, it should light up. Then we connect the drill in the same order and the voltage on the voltmeter will show 13.9V. In passive mode, the battery under the light bulb gives 12.2V, and when we turn it with a drill, it gives 13.9V.

Generator test circuit

1. Check the functionality of the generator by short circuit, that is, “to spark”.
2. It is also undesirable to allow the generator to operate without consumers turned on; it is also undesirable to operate with the battery disconnected.
3. Connect terminal “30” (in some cases B+) to ground or terminal “67” (in some cases D+).
4. Carry out welding work on the car body with the generator and battery wires connected.

3.3.1 The “+” terminal of the generator is connected to the “+” terminal of the battery, designed to provide energy to the electrical consumers of the machine and charge the battery. The “+” terminal of the generator is connected with an M8 bolt. The generator housing is the negative terminal and is connected to the ground of the machine.

3.3.2 Terminal “D” is the anode terminal of the additional rectifier of the semiconductor rectifier block. The presence of constant voltage at the output can be used to signal the start of operation of the generator, for which pilot lamps, starter blocking relays, etc. can be connected to it. The maximum load current at pin “D” is no more than 1.5A at a voltage relative to ground of no less than 26.5V. Terminal “D” of the generator is connected to pin 6.4, mounted on an M5 screw.

3.3.3 Terminal “W” is the output of one of the generator phases. The output is intended for connecting a tachometer and other devices (starter blocking relay, ABS, etc.) that use alternating voltage to determine the rotation speed of the generator shaft and, with a certain gear ratio (determined by pulleys on the engine and generator shafts), the engine shaft. The amplitude of the pulse voltage at terminal “W” relative to “ground” with a load current of no more than 1.5A must be at least 25V. The pulse signal frequency f w (Hz) is related to the generator shaft rotation frequency n g (min -1) by the following relationship:

f w =0.1n g.

Terminal “W” of the generator is brought out with an M4 bolt. If there is a “T” terminal, the “W” terminal of the generator may be absent.

3.3.4 Pin “T” is the output of a filter that provides the formation of rectangular voltage pulses from an alternating signal (“W”) of one of the generator phases. The output is intended for connecting a tachometer and other devices (starter blocking relay, ABS, etc.) that are critical to the shape of the phase signal. The signal from the “T” terminal, as well as from the “W” terminal, can be used to determine the speed of the generator shaft and, with a certain gear ratio (determined by the pulleys on the engine and generator shaft), the engine shaft. The voltage at terminal “T” relative to “ground” must be at least 2.0 V at a rotation speed (2000 + 100) min -1 and the load current in the “T” output circuit is no more than 5 mA. The signal frequency f t (Hz) is related to the generator shaft rotation speed n g (min -1) by the following relationship:

f t =0.1 n g.

Terminal “T” of the generator is brought out with an M4 bolt. If there is a “W” terminal, the “T” terminal of the generator may be absent.

3.3.5 Terminal “B” of the generator is designed to turn on the electromagnetic excitation of the generator by turning on the voltage regulator. Terminal “B” of the generator is connected through the ignition switch to the positive terminal of the battery.

The current consumption by the regulator at terminal “B” of the generator should not exceed 50 mA at a voltage of 26.5 V.

Terminal “B” of the generator is brought out with an M5 bolt.

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A xenon lighting system is not only lamps, but also additional components, the relevance and importance of which is very high. One of these components is the ignition unit, without which the lamps simply would not work. Standard high-quality devices include a Bosch xenon ignition unit. This equipment is made in Germany and belongs to the second generation. The block was used regularly on cars in 2008.

The igniting principle for xenon Turan, Cadillac and Golf. The block transforms the voltage from 12 V to 25000 V at the start, which ensures almost instantaneous ignition of the xenon source and further glow. the unit supplies current and maintains a voltage of 85 V for the operation of Renault Megane and Range Rover lamps

Also, if you are not sure that this unit model is suitable for your BMW 3 e92 e70 e83 e90, you can seek help from highly qualified specialists online who will help you select a device specifically for the make and model of your vehicle.

Standard serial block code for BMW and Audi:
1307329074 130732915602
1307329076 130732923900
1307329153 1 307 329 153
1k0941329 63117182520
a1669002800 a2048203285 golf

The Mercedes ignition unit (models 221 w204 w221 w211 W216 W218) also provides control of xenon equipment, preventing short circuits and failure of the entire system. The device must be installed only on those cars on which it was previously used, so as not to interfere with the operation of the electronics of French Peugeot and Citroen cars.

This original device, which serves to ensure the operation of xenon, is mainly used by the Mazda 6 company. Also, this model of the second generation of the unit is often used on Volkswagen Passat (b6 b7 ss) and Audi A4 A3 a6 cars. The electronic system for igniting a xenon lamp is still used on cars of these brands, without losing its relevance and popularity even after the release of new generation units with expanded functionality.

Main characteristics of the xenon unit for the D3S, D4S lamp:

Combination with xenon lamps. This model of ignition units is used exclusively with xenon lamps that have D1S/D1R and D2S/D2R sockets (if we are talking about Land Rover c-class e46 x3 x5). Please note that it is necessary to use only original lamps from well-known manufacturers, so as not to damage the unit in a matter of days.

Power and installation on a Mazda 6 2008. The block of the German company is installed exclusively on passenger cars with a mandatory match of the original Mercedes gh c350 codes (except for the ignitor). The voltage in the on-board network should be 12 Vt. The unit itself, under such conditions, consumes only 35 W of vehicle power, thereby not negatively affecting the vehicle’s electronics and generator.

Technical specifications

Maximum recoil force (at 13 V and 6000 min -1), A.....80

Adjustable voltage limits, V.....13.2–14.7

Engine-generator gear ratio..... 1:2.4

Device Features

Generator type 94.3701 – alternating current, three-phase, with built-in rectifier unit and electronic voltage regulator, right rotation (drive side).

An AAK-5102 generator made in Slovenia can be installed on some vehicles. In terms of its characteristics and installation dimensions, this generator is interchangeable with the 94.3701 generator, but has some differences in the design of components and parts. This chapter describes the 94.3701 generator.

Rice. 7–5. Generator 94.3701: 1 – casing; 2 – output “B+” for connecting consumers; 3 – noise suppression capacitor 2.2 μF; 4 – common terminal of additional diodes (connected to the “D+” terminal of the voltage regulator); 5 – holder of positive diodes of the rectifier unit; 6 – holder of negative diodes of the rectifier unit; 7 – stator winding terminals; 8 – voltage regulator; 9 – brush holder; 10 – back cover; 11 – front cover; 12 – stator core; 13 – stator winding; 14 – spacer ring; 15 – washer; 16 – conical washer; 17 – pulley; 18 – nut; 19 – rotor shaft; 20 – front rotor shaft bearing; 21 – beak-shaped pole pieces of the rotor; 22 – rotor winding; 23 – bushing; 24 – tension screw; 25 – rear rotor bearing; 26 – bearing sleeve; 27 – slip rings; 28 – negative diode; 29 – positive diode; 30 – additional diode; 31 – pin “D” (common pin of additional diodes)

Stator and covers 10 and 11 ( rice. 7–5) are secured with four screws. The rotor shaft 19 rotates in bearings 20 and 25, which are installed in the covers. Power is supplied to the rotor winding (excitation winding) through brushes and slip rings 27.

The three-phase alternating current induced in the stator winding is converted into direct current by a rectifier unit attached to the cover 10. The electronic voltage regulator 8 is combined into one unit with a brush holder and is also attached to the cover 10.

The generator connection diagram is shown in rice. 7–6. The voltage to excite the generator when the ignition is turned on is supplied to the “D+” terminal of the regulator (terminal “D” of the generator) through a control lamp located in instrument cluster 5. After starting the engine, the excitation winding is powered by three additional diodes installed on the generator rectifier block.

The “W” output of the generator is not used on vehicles of the VAZ-2110 family.

The operation of the generator is controlled by a warning lamp in the instrument cluster. When the ignition is turned on, the lamp should be on, and after starting the engine, it should go out if the generator is working. A brightly burning lamp or glowing at full intensity indicates a malfunction.

WARNINGS It is not allowed to operate the generator with the battery disconnected. This will cause short-term overvoltages to occur at the “B+” terminal of the generator, which can damage the generator voltage regulator and electronic devices in the vehicle’s on-board network. It is prohibited to check the functionality of the generator “for spark” even by briefly connecting the “B+” terminal of the generator to ground. In this case, significant current flows through the valves and they are damaged. The generator can only be checked using an ammeter and voltmeter. The generator valves are not allowed to be checked with a voltage of more than 12 V or with a megger, since it has a voltage too high for the valves and they will be broken during testing (a short circuit will occur). It is prohibited to check the vehicle's electrical wiring with a megger or a lamp powered by a voltage of more than 12 V. If such a check is necessary, you must first disconnect the wires from the generator. The insulation resistance of the generator stator winding with increased voltage should be checked only on a stand and always with the terminals of the phase windings disconnected from the valves. When electrically welding components and parts of the car body, you should disconnect the wires from all terminals of the generator and battery.

Control checksgenerator

Checking the generator on the stand

Testing at the stand allows you to determine the serviceability of the generator and whether its characteristics correspond to the nominal ones. The brushes of the generator being tested should be well ground to the contact rings of the commutator, and the rings themselves should be clean.

Place the generator on the stand and make connections as shown in rice. 7–7. Turn on the electric motor of the stand, set the voltage at the generator output to 13 V using rheostat 4 and increase the rotor speed to 6000 rpm. Let the generator operate in this mode for at least 10 minutes, and then measure the output current. For a working generator it should be at least 80 A.

If the measured value of the supplied current is significantly less, then this indicates a malfunction in the stator and rotor windings or damage to the valves. In this case, a thorough check of the windings and valves is necessary to determine the location of the fault.

The voltage at the generator output is checked at a rotor speed of 5000 rpm. Using rheostat 4, set the output current to 15 A and measure the voltage at the generator output, which should be 13.2–14.7 V at the ambient and generator temperature (25±10) C.

If the voltage does not fall within the specified limits, then replace the brush holder with the voltage regulator with a new, known-good one, and repeat the test. If the voltage is normal, then the old voltage regulator is damaged and needs to be replaced. And if the voltage still does not fall within the above limits, then it is necessary to check the windings and valves of the generator.

Generator check electronic oscilloscope

An oscilloscope allows you to accurately and quickly check the serviceability of the generator and determine the nature of the damage using the shape of the rectified voltage curve.

To check, assemble the circuit according to rice. 7–8. Disconnect the common terminal wire of the three additional diodes from the “D+” plug of the voltage regulator and take measures to ensure that the tip of the disconnected wire does not short circuit with the generator ground. Connect the wire from the battery to the “D+” plug of the regulator via switch 3. Thus, the excitation winding will be powered only from the battery.

Turn on the electric motor of the stand and increase the rotor speed to 1500–2000 rpm. Using switch 6, disconnect the battery from the “B+” terminal of the generator and using rheostat 4, set the output current to 10 A.

Using an oscilloscope, check the voltage at the “B+” terminal of the generator. When the valves and stator winding are in good working order, the rectified voltage curve has a sawtooth shape with uniform teeth ( rice. 7–9,I). If there is a break in the stator winding or a break or short circuit in the valves of the rectifier unit, the shape of the curve changes sharply: the uniformity of the teeth is disrupted and deep depressions appear ( rice. 7–9, II and III).

After checking the shape of the voltage curve at the “B+” terminal of the generator and making sure that it is normal, check the voltage at the “D” plug of the generator with the wire disconnected from the “D+” plug of the voltage regulator. Plug “D” is the common terminal of three additional diodes (see. rice. 7–6), supplying the excitation winding during generator operation. The shape of the voltage curve here should also have a regular sawtooth shape. An irregular curve shape indicates damage to the additional diodes.

Checking the rotor field winding

The field winding can be checked without removing the generator from the car by removing only the protective casing and the voltage regulator along with the brush holder. After cleaning the contact rings with sandpaper, if necessary, use an ohmmeter or a test lamp to check whether there is a break in the field winding and whether it is shorted to ground.

Stator check

The stator is checked separately, after removing the rectifier unit.

First of all, check with an ohmmeter or using a test lamp and a battery to see if there are breaks in the stator winding and if its turns are shorted to ground.

The insulation of the winding wires must be without signs of overheating, which occurs when there is a short circuit in the valves of the rectifier unit. Replace the stator with such damaged winding.

Finally, after disassembling the generator, it is necessary to check with a special flaw detector whether there are any short-circuited turns in the stator winding.

Checking valves rectifier unit

A working valve allows current to flow in only one direction. Faulty - it can either not pass current at all (open circuit), or pass current in both directions (short circuit).

If one of the rectifier valves is damaged, the entire rectifier unit must be replaced.

A short circuit in the valves of the rectifier unit can be checked without removing the generator from the car, after first disconnecting the wires from the battery and generator and removing the casing from the back cover of the generator. The wire is also disconnected from the “D+” terminal of the voltage regulator. You can check with an ohmmeter or using a lamp (1–5 W, 12 V) and a battery, as shown in rice. 7–10 .

First, check if there is a short circuit in the “positive” and “negative” valves at the same time. To do this, connect the “plus” of the battery through the lamp to the “B+” terminal of the generator, and the “minus” to the generator housing ( rice. 7–10,I). If the lamp is on, then the “negative” and “positive” valves have a short circuit.

To check for a short circuit in the “positive” valves, connect the “plus” valves of the battery through a lamp to the “B+” terminal of the generator, and connect the “minus” valve to one of the phase terminals of the stator winding ( rice. 7–10, II). The lamp will indicate a short circuit in one or more “positive” valves.

A short circuit of the “negative” valves can be checked by connecting the “plus” of the battery through a lamp to one of the phase terminals of the stator winding, and the “minus” to the generator housing ( rice. 7–10,III). The lamp burning means a short circuit in one or more “negative” valves. It should be remembered that in this case, the burning of the lamp may also be a consequence of the short circuit of the turns of the stator winding to the generator housing. However, such a malfunction is much less common than valve short circuits.

A break in the valves without disassembling the generator can be detected either with an oscilloscope or when checking the generator on a bench by a significant decrease (by 20–30%) in the value of the supplied current compared to the rated one. If the windings, additional diodes and the generator voltage regulator are working properly, and there is no short circuit in the valves, then the reason for the decrease in the output current is a break in the valves.

Checking additional diodes

The short circuit of additional diodes can be checked without removing and disassembling the generator according to the diagram shown in rice. 7–11. Just like for checking the valves of the rectifier unit, it is necessary to disconnect the wires from the battery and the generator, remove the protective casing of the generator and disconnect the wire from the “D+” terminal of the voltage regulator.

Connect the “plus” of the battery through a lamp (1–3 W, 12 V) to terminal “D” of the generator, and the “minus” to one of the phase terminals of the stator winding.

If the lamp lights up, then there is a short circuit in one of the additional diodes. You can find a damaged diode only by removing the rectifier unit and checking each diode individually.

A break in additional diodes can be detected with an oscilloscope by the distortion of the voltage curve on plug “D”, as well as by low voltage (below 14 V) on plug “D” at an average rotation speed of the generator rotor.

Checking the voltage regulator

The operation of the voltage regulator is to continuously and automatically change the generator excitation current so that the generator voltage is maintained within specified limits when the generator speed and load current changes.

Check on the car.

To check, you must have a DC voltmeter with a scale of up to 15–30 V, accuracy class no worse than 1.0.

After 15 minutes of engine operation at medium speed with the headlights on, measure the voltage between the “B+” terminal and the generator ground. The voltage should be between 13.2–14.7 V.

If there is a systematic undercharging or overcharging of the battery and the regulated voltage does not fall within the specified limits, the voltage regulator must be replaced.

Checking the removed regulator.

The regulator assembly with brush holder, removed from the generator, is checked according to the diagram shown on rice. 7–12 .

Between the brushes, turn on a 1–3 W, 12 V lamp. Connect a power source, first with a voltage of 12 V, and then with a voltage of 15–16 V, to the “D+” and “ground” terminals of the regulator.

If the regulator is working properly, then in the first case the lamp should light up, and in the second case it should go out.

If the lamp lights up in both cases, then there is a breakdown in the regulator, and if it doesn’t light up in both cases, then either there is a break in the regulator, or there is no contact between the brushes and the terminals of the voltage regulator. The latter can be checked by connecting the wires from the lamp not to the brushes, but directly to the “D+” and “DF” terminals of the voltage regulator.

Capacitor check

The capacitor serves to protect the vehicle's electronic equipment from voltage surges in the ignition system, as well as to reduce interference with radio reception.

Rice. 7–13. Generator parts: 1 – pulley; 2 – washer; 3 – front cover; 4 – spacer ring; 5 – rotor; 6 – stator; 7 – back cover; 8 – casing; 9 – rectifier unit with capacitor; 10 – brush holder with voltage regulator

Remove the casing 8 ( rice. 7–13), releasing the latches that connect it to the back cover. Unscrew the screws securing the back cover of the brush holder 10 assembled with the voltage regulator and remove it. Disconnect the wire from the “D+” terminal of the voltage regulator.

Remove the rectifier unit with the capacitor from the back cover by unscrewing the screws securing the phase terminals of the stator winding and the screw securing the capacitor to the cover. After this, if necessary, you can disconnect the capacitor from the rectifier unit by unscrewing the nut securing the capacitor wire to the “B+” terminal of the rectifier unit.

Remove the four tightening screws and disconnect the rear cover 7 with stator 6 from the front cover 3 with rotor 5. Disconnect the stator from the rear cover. If necessary, remove the bushing with the rear rotor shaft bearing from the rear cover.

Clamp the rotor in a vice and use a socket wrench to unscrew the nut securing pulley 1. Remove the pulley, washer 2, front cover and spacer ring 4 from the rotor shaft.

The generator is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly. The convex side of the pulley spring washer should be in contact with the nut. Tighten the pulley nut to a torque of 38.22–61.74 N·m (3.93–6.3 kgf·m).

Replacing the voltage regulator or brushes

The voltage regulator assembly with brush holder is a non-separable unit. Therefore, if the voltage regulator fails or the brushes are worn out (protrude less than 5 mm from the brush holder), the entire assembly is replaced.

Replacing rotor bearings

The front rotor shaft bearing is pressed and rolled into the front cover. Therefore, if it fails, it is necessary to replace the front cover assembled with the bearing.

The rear bearing is pressed onto the rotor shaft. To replace it, you need to remove the bearing from the rotor shaft with a puller and press on a new bearing using a press.

Replacing additional diodes

To replace, unsolder the leads of the damaged diode and carefully remove it from the plastic holder, avoiding sharp impacts on the rectifier unit. Then clean the diode installation area of ​​any remaining epoxy resin, install and solder the new diode.

Solder the diode output with a color mark to the common bus. After soldering, glue the diode body to the holder with epoxy resin.

Adjusting the tension of the generator drive belt

– by rotating adjusting bolt 3, move the generator away from the engine;

– turn the crankshaft two turns and check the belt tension;

– after completing the adjustment, tighten the generator mounting nuts.

Avoid over-tensioning the belt so as not to cause increased load on the generator bearings.