Lada Kalina 2. Causes of exhaust toxicity
Reasons and methods for reducing exhaust toxicity
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| The injectors are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty | Check the tightness and shape of the spray pattern of the injectors | Contaminated injectors can be washed on a special stand. |
| Replace leaking and heavily contaminated injectors. | Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | To check the high-voltage wires and ignition coil, replace them with known good ones. |
| Replace the faulty ignition coil and damaged high-voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frosts alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years | Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the heat cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Check the spark plugs |
| Replace defective spark plugs | The air temperature sensor in the intake manifold or its circuit is faulty | |
| Use a tester to check the serviceability of the sensor | Coolant temperature sensor faulty | Check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter at different temperatures |
| Replace the faulty sensor | The throttle position sensor or its circuit is faulty | Check the serviceability of the throttle position sensor |
| Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor | The oxygen concentration sensor or its circuits are faulty | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of its electrical circuit connections using diagnostic equipment |
| Restore damaged electrical circuits. Replace faulty sensor | The absolute air pressure sensor and its circuits are faulty | You can check the serviceability of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment |
| Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace the faulty sensor | The ECU or its circuits are faulty | To check, replace the ECU with a known good one. |
| Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace the faulty ECU | Inspection at medium crankshaft speed | Replace the defective gasket, tighten the threaded connections |
| Exhaust gas catalytic converter faulty | You can check the serviceability of the exhaust gas catalytic converter using diagnostic equipment | Replace the catalytic converter |
| Increased pressure in the fuel system due to a faulty pressure regulator | Inspection, checking the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) at idle | Replace the faulty regulator |
| Increased resistance to air flow in the intake tract | Check the air filter element, intake tract (no foreign objects, leaves, etc.) | Clean the intake tract, replace the dirty air filter element |
| Large amounts of oil entering the engine combustion chambers due to wear or damage to oil seals, valve stems, valve guides, piston rings, pistons and cylinders | Inspection after engine disassembly | Repair the engine |
In 80%, the toxicity of exhaust gases is influenced by several main factors: 1. Fuel (the first and main factor) 2. Engine condition (wear, amount of contaminants) 3. Engine oil (type, quality, cleanliness) 4. Air filter condition (resistance) .
1. Fuel. Before going for a technical inspection, a few days before, you should fill only high-quality gasoline with a high octane number. This approach will dramatically reduce the content of toxins in exhaust gases.
2. Engine condition. This is the most common factor that leads to changes in the composition of the exhaust. It is recommended to clean the fuel system twice a year and do not forget to periodically change the fuel filter. The condition of the spark plugs greatly affects toxicity; it is recommended to replace them before maintenance.
3. Motor oil. Oddly enough, the quality of motor oil also changes the composition of exhaust gases. Synthetic motor oil leads to a decrease in toxicity, while mineral oil leads to an increase. Therefore, before undergoing maintenance, it is recommended to replace the old engine oil with fresh one; you must use only high-quality oil purchased from official representatives.
4. Condition of the air filter. Everyone knows that air filter resistance (contamination) causes a decrease in power, excessive vacuum in the intake manifold and an increase in toxicity. Before undergoing maintenance, it should also be replaced with a new one!
The main reasons for the formation of toxic substances in internal combustion engines are imperfect processes for preparing the combustible mixture before supplying it to the cylinders and in the cylinders, which leads to incomplete combustion of fuel in the engine, as well as contamination of the fuel with various impurities and additives.
Ideally, with complete combustion of hydrocarbon fuel in an engine, this process should result in the formation of carbon dioxide and water vapor, which are not toxic substances.
But it is almost impossible to obtain an ideal fuel combustion process at various engine operating modes or to have ideally clean fuel in actual vehicle operation. Therefore, unpleasant emissions into the atmosphere always accompany the operation of an internal combustion engine.
The amount of toxic substances in the exhaust gases of diesel engines and spark-ignition engines has significant differences due to the different nature of the processes of mixture formation and combustion of fuel. The exhaust gases of diesel engines contain large quantities of soot and nitrogen oxides, and those of spark-ignition engines contain carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons. Therefore, the means of combating toxicity are different for these types of engines.
Reducing the toxicity of vehicle exhaust gases is carried out in various ways by improving the design and operating process of engines, equipping vehicles with systems for capturing and neutralizing harmful emissions, as well as improving the environmental properties of the gasoline used.
Other causes of engine toxicity
Losses during fuel combustion (losses from the entry of unburned fuel into the exhaust system);
losses due to a rich air-fuel mixture;
losses as a result of oxidation and combustion of fuel in the compression phase (due to the presence of an injection advance angle or ignition advance angle);
losses in the combustion chamber due to the gap between the pistons and the walls of the cylinder block;
friction losses of piston rings on the cylinder block;
losses due to inertia forces arising in the internal combustion engine (as a result of “shifting” of pistons and other internal combustion engine elements);
friction losses due to asymmetrical reactions of connecting rods;
losses due to asymmetric combustion;
losses as a result of collision of pairs of articulated parts of the crankshaft and cylinder head;
losses for the operation of units installed on internal combustion engines.
You should not uselessly turn the engine with the starter for a long time;
Do not start the engine by towing. You should use the “lighting” method from another car;
It is prohibited to check the operation of the cylinders by disconnecting the spark plugs.
If there are interruptions in the operation of the ignition system, do not allow the engine to operate at high crankshaft speed until the malfunction is eliminated;
Do not fill engine oil above the maximum level. Excess oil entering the catalytic converter can damage the coating or completely destroy it.
Lada Kalina cars of the second group are equipped with mechanical or. Regardless of the type of design, gearboxes for LADA Kalina are characterized by high quality and, when used correctly, do not cause trouble for drivers. Automobile manufacturers declare that there is no need for mandatory oil changes in manual transmissions and automatic transmissions during the operating period. But, as practice shows, such a need exists. A full or Lada Granta has to be carried out after a mileage of 75,000 km.
Design features of the Jatco automatic transmission
Lada Granta cars are equipped with a four-speed automatic (AY-K3). The characteristics of the new car are as close as possible to international standards. The Lada Granta gearbox is equipped with a reliable hydraulic unit.
The technical capabilities and operational properties of this automatic transmission are excellent for modern domestically produced cars. The gearbox is protected from overheating; reliable protection is triggered when it reaches +114°C. Sensor readings below this parameter are considered normal for further movement. Grant's gearbox is controlled by an ECU.
The main purpose of lubricants for automatic transmissions
The condition of road surfaces on Russian highways is not of high quality, so when driving a Grant on our roads, you will have to change the oil in the gearbox much more often.
- reduction in the volume of lubricating fluid in the crankcase;
- increased wear of the lubricant;
- oil filter clogged.
Before checking the fluid level, you need to:
- Start the engine.
- Apply the brake.
- Switch on each gear alternately.
- With the engine running, check the lubricant level using the dipstick.
If the oil in the system is cold, you need to look at the “COLD” mark, when warming up - “HOT”, respectively. These inscriptions are located on the probe on different sides.
Tip: The dipstick will be accessible after removing the air filter housing.
Checking the oil level in the automatic transmission is carried out at intervals of one and a half to two months. If the oil volume has sharply decreased, you need to add the required amount of lubricant into the box.
Oil for Lada Granta automatic machine
Automakers provide clear recommendations on the choice of lubricant for each specific vehicle. To understand which oil to buy for the automatic transmission of your Lada Grant, the car owner needs to carefully study the service book. It also indicates how many liters of oil you need to purchase to fill the tank to its full capacity.
Everyone knows that the oil change in the Lada Granta automatic transmission is carried out only at a service center. In general, such a replacement is not required according to the regulations, since the service interval is 100 thousand km. But changing the oil in an automatic transmission will not be more difficult than in a car with a manual transmission. The problem is that it will be impossible to control the level, although a probe for control is provided in the design of the “automatic machine”.
The volume of drained oil can be estimated from the video.
Design features of the Jatco gearbox
We are talking about an automatic transmission installed on Lada cars. The automatic transmission design has a dipstick that allows you to control the oil level. But the control is carried out when the engine is running, and it will be impossible to get to the dipstick without removing the filter.
This dipstick is even more convenient than on a manual transmission
Consider that instead of a dipstick, only a plug is installed. In fact, this is the case for many - if you remove the filter, you can see the “plug” and not the dipstick.
Checking the oil level in the automatic transmission on Lada Granta
Let's look at how to check the oil level in the automatic transmission of Lada Grants, following the regulations:
Both inscriptions are applied to different sides of the probe. But to get to it, you need to remove the engine air filter housing.
Preparing for partial or complete replacement
Open the hood and disconnect the battery (key “10”, terminal “minus”). Next, remove the filter housing:
Now that there are no unnecessary parts, changing the oil in the Lada Granta automatic transmission can be done quickly.
Partial replacement
Don't forget to return the dipstick to its rightful place. Reassemble the remaining components.
After all the steps, the old oil in the automatic transmission will be mixed with the new one. But this process will end after 100-200 km. The “partial replacement” is then repeated, and a total of 3-4 liters of “old” material will be replaced.
Complete automatic transmission oil change on Lada Granta
It is possible to completely change the oil in the automatic transmission of Lada Granta. Plug 2 is screwed into the crankcase from below (key “19”). Underneath it there is tube 3, which is unscrewed with a “6” hexagon.
Two plugs at one point
The algorithm will be simple:
Of course, the car itself is placed on an overpass (pit).
- An automatic transmission is more sensitive to dust than any manual transmission. This must be remembered even when changing the oil in the automatic transmission of Lada Grants. All funnels and tubes must be perfectly clean.
- There is no need to increase the temperature of the box too much. The optimum is 45 degrees, but in general, if we are talking about an “automatic”, you can replace it with a “cold” one. But for greater efficiency, the box is “heated”, and then the “new” oil must also be heated.
- When measuring the volume of liquid being drained, take into account the temperature - heated liquid expands.
Material selection
Let us remind you that a partial replacement requires up to three liters of oil, but in general the crankcase holds 5.1 liters. The “old” material is mixed with the “new”, and there are only two options to choose from:
- Nissan ATF Matic-S;
- Genuine EJ-1 ATF.
Jatco itself uses the second option.
Standard Packaging, Nissan Transmission Fluid
Articles
In the Nissan catalog you can find the following designations:
- 31390 – automatic transmission pan (metal black);
- Z1394– external pallet plug;
- Z1394C– pallet plug washer (must be changed!);
- 31329 N– sump tube;
- 31390A– fastening screw;
- 31390 J– washer for screw;
- 31397 – gasket on the pallet.
Add “3MX0A” to each number and you will find what you need.
Theory - watch the video!
You will need: gearbox fluid, funnel, clean cloth, wrench “19”.
The manufacturer provides for checking the fluid level for the automatic transmission every 15,000 km, and fluid replacement is not regulated. And yet, for preventive purposes, the working fluid should be replaced every 60,000 km. In addition, the need to replace the working fluid may arise when it is contaminated or a burnt smell appears. In this case, you should contact a service center, where you will not only change the working fluid, but will also conduct diagnostics for the gearbox, because the signs listed above may indicate its damage.
WARNING
The manufacturer recommends the use of Genuine EJ-1ATF working fluid from the manufacturer JX Nippon Oil and Energy Corporation. The use of other oils or liquids may lead to malfunctions or gearbox failure.
The working fluid level indicator (dipstick) is located in the front part of the engine compartment under the air filter (for clarity, the air filter has been removed in the figure). The level of working fluid in the gearbox is checked with the mechanism warmed up after movement.
1. Topping up and checking the working fluid level was described in section 4 on maintenance (see the article on how to check the level and topping up the working fluid for an automatic transmission).
2.To replace the working fluid, it must be warmed up by driving in the urban cycle for approximately 5 minutes...
3...and unscrew the plug to drain the liquid.
NOTE
The hole plug for draining the working fluid is sealed with a copper washer. An overcompressed washer should be replaced.
4.Pour through the hole for the dipstick the same volume of liquid that was drained (approximately 7.7 liters).
5. Start the engine, let it idle for about 5 minutes, then check the level again (see the subparagraphs on checking the level and adding working fluid to the automatic transmission), as well as the quality of the fluid. If contamination of the liquid is detected, it is necessary to repeat operations 3 and 4 points.
The gearbox is the most important component of any vehicle. The quality of the lubricant used directly affects the correctness and service life of the gearbox and the entire engine as a whole. Failure to promptly replace the transmission fluid in the gearbox can cause serious damage to the unit.
According to the instructions, the lubricant is replaced every 75 thousand kilometers. Under conditions of intensive use, this figure should be reduced to 50 thousand km.
Which lubricant should you choose?
Today there is no shortage of choice of transmission fluids; the main thing is to purchase the original, and not the Chinese analogue. Many users, having used a Lada Kalina car, recommend Lukoil semi-synthetics, TNK Magnum - oils that allow you to travel up to 300 thousand km. without major repairs. At the same time, the manual transmission behaves much quieter, switching gears more smoothly in cold weather.
Those who operate a Lada Kalina 2 car should be guided by the type of transmission (manual transmission or automatic transmission) and the attached documentation when choosing oil. It should be remembered that when using oils other than those recommended by the manufacturer, failures and malfunctions in the functioning of the automatic transmission are possible. These faults are not subject to warranty repair.
Do-it-yourself gearbox oil change: required skills and equipment
If you plan to replace MTF (manual transmission lubricant), but you don’t want to go to a service station, you can carry out all the activities yourself. In this case you need:
- 17mm wrench (better to make sure you have a spanner wrench);
- Funnel with a tube, no longer than 50 cm;
- Lubricating fluid;
- Canister for used oil, volume 5 liters;
- Flushing oil (about 1.5 liters);
- If you need to flush the manual transmission, use a jack.
Procedure
First, you need to take care of the presence of a hole or overpass, check the position of the fluid level (not a single lubricant change in the gearbox should be done without this):
Draining waste
If dark-colored metal dust is found in the waste, this is a sure sign that the box needs to be washed. The flushing liquid is poured into the box, the drive wheel is raised using a jack, the engine is started and first gear is engaged. After 10 minutes, the engine is turned off, and the flushing MTF located in the gearbox is drained.
Replacement steps
- Remove the dipstick and install a funnel in the hole;
- Pour approximately 3 liters of MTF into the manual transmission, check the level with a dipstick (if you frequently use 5th gear, it is better to fill it a little more than the average value, closer to the upper value).
In the automatic transmission of Lada Kalina 2, the content of transmission lubricant more than prescribed is not permissible, as this can lead to ignition.
Necessary equipment:
- Key for 8 and key for 10;
- Socket wrench or wrench for 17 and 19;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- Canister for processing;
- For manual transmission - a medical bulb (plunger syringe);
- With automatic transmission - filling hose, funnel;
- Gloves;
- Lubricant suitable for this box.
Instructions:
Regardless of the type of box, a heated Lada Kalina car must stand on a flat surface, overpass, or pit.
- In manual transmission, remove the protective boot;
- Using a key number 17, unscrew the drain plug, after draining the liquid into the substituted container (about 15 minutes), tighten it again;
- Unscrew the filler plug (located just above the drain hole) and pour in lubricating fluid. The optimal indicator is at the bottom mark of the filler hole. You can use a syringe or bulb;
- Tighten the plug and return the protective boot to its place.
Transmission lubricant: replacement rules
And a little about the author’s secrets
My life is not only connected with cars, but with repairs and maintenance.
But I also have hobbies like all men. My hobby is fishing.
I started a personal blog in which I share my experience. I try a lot of things, different methods and methods to increase my catch. If interested, you can read it. Nothing extra, just my personal experience.
