This article will discuss the diagnosis of poly-V-belts of drive mechanisms. There are different belts: gates, dayco, continental, ina, corteco, bosch, lynx. Choose according to your taste and color. In this article you will find information on how to check whether the belt is worn out or can it still work?
The driving force for driving auxiliary units is a poly-V belt. With its help, mechanisms such as power steering, water pump, air conditioning compressor, and generator are activated.
Drive belts come in single, 2, 3, 4 and even 15 V-belts, and there are also wedges on both sides.
The drive belt runs continuously while the engine is running. High temperatures in the engine compartment, and in addition bending, affect the condition of the timing belt. Over time, even the best belts can wear out and require replacement.
If you find even minor irregularities in the operation of a serpentine automotive timing belt, use the following methods and tips to troubleshoot and further troubleshoot.
- Random cracks across the ribs. Signs are small but visible cracks located across the ribs or ribs. Reasons: constant high thermal stress, bending stress around the pulleys. Cracks appear in the upper part of the rib and become more frequent towards the cord. In fact, this is not such a terrible malfunction; if the cracks are located far from each other, then the belt is still ok. Otherwise, replacement is necessary. The belt needs to be changed if the distance from the cracks is about 2-3 cm and they are deep.
- Rib detachment. Signs The belt rib shifts and begins to peel away from the base of the belt. Reasons: one of the ribs is outside the pulley groove, therefore the belt passes without the support of the pulley groove. The solution is to replace the belt, check that the new belt is installed correctly, start the engine, then turn off completely, check that the belt is positioned correctly on the grooves.
- Oil contamination. Signs: The surface of the belt is scaly, sticky or swollen. Oil and grease are the worst enemies of rubber materials. They weaken bonds in complex compounds. This makes the belt structure soft and spongy. Thus, such a belt will swell, overheat and malfunction. The solution is to eliminate the source of oil contamination, replace the belt, check that oil and any chemical compounds do not come into contact with the belt, and also do not use belt spray.
- Abrasive wear. Signs are that the back of the belt appears shiny or glossy, in later areas the cord is visible and the cord is damaged. The reason may be that when the belt moves, it comes into contact with any foreign objects (flange, bolt), or it may also be caused by incorrect tension, belt vibration on longer sections of the belt between the pulleys. The solution is to replace the belt and check the path of the belt as it rotates around the pulleys. Check the tensioner and make sure the belt is properly tensioned.
- Uneven belt wear. Signs include greater wear on one rib relative to the other. The cause may be a foreign object, such as a small stone, caught in the pulley. It can cause uneven wear and cut into the belt and break the cords. This kind of problem most often occurs in cars that are not equipped with engine protection. Solution to the problem: replace the belt, make sure it is installed on good pulleys and install engine protection.
- Chipping. Signs of this problem include pieces or crumbs of rubber coming off the belt. The timing belt can break at any time if you see signs of chipping. It can occur if several adjacent cracks run parallel to the cord. The main causes of this type of wear are high temperatures, bending stress and belt aging. The solution is to replace the belt.
- Gravel hit. There are small holes on the back of the belt, visible depressions where frayed fabric may form. The reason may be medium and fine gravel that gets into the groove between the belts. This problem most often occurs in cars that are not equipped with engine protection. Solution to the problem: install a new belt, check the condition of the pulleys and install engine protection.
- Badasses. Belt materials wear off the ribs and accumulate in the belt grooves. There are several reasons for this malfunction: misalignment, installation of the belt on worn pulleys, or insufficient tension. Seizures most often occur on diesel engines, but are not unique to them. Solution to the problem. If scuffing leads to increased noise and vibration, the belt must be replaced. Make sure that the new belt is installed on good pulleys, check the belt tension, check the tensioner.
- Damage to the outer ribs. The side walls of the belt have become glossy, the outer cord threads have worn off and the ribs look torn. Noticeable noise may occur. In the most serious cases, the belt can get caught in the timing belt drive, which can lead to serious problems. The reason most often lies in the misalignment of the pulleys, which leads to excessive tension and detachment of the side parts of the cord. The solution is to replace the belt with properly aligned pulleys. Also make sure that the pulleys and pulley brackets are not bent or broken.
- Broken belt. The cause may be a foreign body getting between the pulleys, which leads to rupture of the cord threads and, accordingly, rupture of the belt itself. A rupture during tension is also possible, but this rupture may not be noticeable until the timing belt is removed. Another reason for rupture may be shock loading or blocking of the pulleys. Solution: Carefully check all belt components for foreign objects or damage. All drive pulleys must rotate freely. The solution is to replace the belt.
- The belt is noisy. Signs - the belt makes sounds (chirping, creaking, whistling). A crackling sound, the frequency of which increases with increasing speed, a strong squeal when the car starts moving - this indicates insufficient belt tension. If the tension is insufficient, the belt heats up and hardens, which leads to belt wear. To replace the belt, do not use a screwdriver, only a special tool.
- Loss of material. Belts made from a material known as chloroplyne show normal signs of wear over time. Belts are made from materials such as APDM, they do not always show these signs and have a good service life. They are more durable.
Remember!!! Do not use belt spray as it may cause the belt material to deteriorate and the belt may slip past the pulleys silently, the belt materials will absorb the spray causing the surface of the ribs to dry out.
Many motorists will be interested to know why the alternator belt breaks. There may be several reasons that initiate a break; the owner will have to be careful to determine why exactly it breaks. Otherwise, no budget will support constant purchases of belts, and no one will want to change it every time.
Pulleys and Alignment
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So, why do belts break? Experts say one of the main reasons is that the pulley is installed crookedly. Lack of mutual alignment leads to the fact that the belt rotates incorrectly, touches various mechanisms with its sides, and quickly wears out.
It happens that the pulley on the power steering pump is placed backwards, incorrectly. Again, no alignment. The pulley is rearranged, the problem disappears.
It doesn’t hurt to always check another pulley – the crank pulley – for runout. Lack of mutual alignment can also occur due to a crooked crank shaft pulley.
To check the runout, just use a dial indicator.
A simple inspection of the pulleys is the first thing a caring car owner does. First of all, it is determined whether they are coaxial to each other. This is done like this: if the belt is pulled straight with a string, then the pulleys are in the same plane.
Attention. For V-belts, skew is allowed, but not more than 1 mm per 100 mm.
Alignment is an important thing. Checking it is the first step! It happens that not only the pulleys, but also the units themselves are crooked. For example, a non-original pump may be installed on a car. You check it and see that the difference in size from the hub to the base is very large.
It happens that pulleys come across prefabricated ones. That is, they are made from two halves using spot welding. When the belt is tensioned, the welding may fail and fall off. The tension will push the pulley halves apart, the belt will begin to fall into the resulting gap and tear.
The pulley may also not be original. That is, with a smaller diameter. In this case, a large load will appear on the generator, the belt will begin to slip, and accordingly, its sides will wear out.
It is, of course, better to replace such a pulley, but there are craftsmen who add washers, etc. This technique can achieve alignment, however, not always. You straighten one element, and then you notice that the power steering has gone out of plane or something else.
For reference:
- Pulleys from VAZs are not suitable for many cars due to the smaller diameter of the mounting hole;
- GAZ vehicles often have different planes of rotation, although the diameter may be the same.
Another reason is burrs on the pulley plane. They greatly wear out the rubber material of the belt and can create a step on the product, thereby shortening the service life and causing a break. In some cases, due to burrs, it is not possible to drive even a week with a new belt.
Burrs are nodules in the form of metal points rising above the plane of the pulley. It is clear that this is not acceptable. You should go over them with a file, sand them, in a word. After this, the belt will serve its life, at least for at least 1 year (active operation of the machine).
Finally, the pulley itself may be too stiff. For example, this is observed on old domestic cars. You install new belts, but they are not designed for such metal - Soviet steel, stamped and non-separable design. It is better to replace such a pulley with a solid one made of some light alloy.
It is noteworthy that if the alignment is incorrect, the battery does not hold a charge for a long time, because the belt twists. That is, the gene no longer produces the required voltage, since it is not functioning correctly. All this can be determined by the battery, which quickly runs out.
So, the first reason why a belt can break is problems with the pulley and lack of alignment. Pulleys are often installed incorrectly; they may have differences in plane, burrs, etc. The pulleys themselves may not be original, prefabricated, or too hard.
Bearings have failed
The bearings that are installed in the generator can also cause a break. If they are not replaced in a timely manner, you will have to change not only them, but also the belt.
The bearings must rotate easily without a belt. If this is not the case, then there is a spell. There should also be no jamming or noise. Whatever malfunction of the bearing there is, it all lies inside, and without analysis you can’t determine anything meaningful.
If the gene bearings are faulty, the belt begins to whistle. It is obvious that bearings are structurally designed to soften the unintended process of friction of parts. If they are faulty, then they cannot cope with their functions, and as a result, friction increases.
Replacing generator bearings is common. Many experienced motorists decide to replace it themselves, saving money for repairs.
Failure or inconsistent operation of bearings is the second reason why belts on the generator break.
Belt
It is also obvious that the gene belt breaks due to excessive overtightening. The crank shaft damper bends due to this, because it is rubber and cannot withstand heavy loads. After which all the belts begin to tear, new and old.
The belt is often installed incorrectly, backwards. The upper pulling branch is launched under the roller. It is recommended to check the correct installation using the book.
In general, choosing the right belt is a whole science. Beginners often do not pay attention to this and do not take the matter with the necessary degree of seriousness. In fact, a lot depends on the quality of the belt.
Here are just a few points that give reason to reconsider your views:
- Low-grade belts stretch faster and, accordingly, soon begin to slip (as a result, the belt wears out faster and the charge is lost);
- A cheap, low-quality belt produces an unpleasant squeak during operation (the noise is especially loud when starting the engine).
When choosing a belt, you should always remember an important rule - pay attention not so much to price as to quality. Due to the intense competition in the markets these days, manufacturers are forced to come up with different ways to get ahead of their rivals. Increasing the price of a cheap product is one of the options to attract attention (after all, many still believe in the stereotype that if it’s more expensive, it means it’s good).
There are quite a lot of stories about a low-quality product supplied by a greedy owner. For example. One owner of Renault Megane 2 decided to save money. Instead of Kontiteg I installed a belt from a left company at a cheap price. In the end, everything resulted in a major overhaul of the engine, although such large costs could have been avoided by spending a little more when buying a belt.
And what happened: the low-quality gene belt did not last even 10 percent of its service life and broke. Its branches were wound around the tensioner roller, the other end got under the timing belt, which also came off. As a result, internal engine components flew off and valves were bent.
It is important to understand that the belt is an important thing. It bends around and drives several rollers and pulleys, which increases the load on the element. Therefore, its quality must be at its best; this is obvious logic.
The conteg is known for its reliability. Of course, they make belts in Germany, and there the quality is all right. Poly V-belts from this manufacturer have long won the love and respect of motorists around the world. According to official data, the service life of products from Kontiteg is only 10 percent lower than that of original belts.
Attention. According to the service book, the original belt must be replaced every 80 thousand km. If these are Kontiteg belts, then you can safely keep them on the generator for 70 thousand km of the car.
Jites is a very popular brand, however, the price of the products is somewhat overpriced. The service life of the products is the same as that of Kontiteg.
Daiko is also a good choice, although you can also buy Bosch belts. The main thing is not to run into a fake. If the name on the product is printed crookedly, the size of the symbols is increased or decreased, it is better to refuse the purchase. In addition, each represented manufacturer regularly introduces its consumers to new features that are difficult to counterfeit. You just need to be aware.
Well, the simple reason is that the belt does not fit. It is possible to install it, but then problems begin and it breaks. If it is longer, it will begin to sag; if it is short, then it will also not be possible to tighten it properly.
Tension
Incorrect tension causes the gene belt to break.
You can check the tension like this:
- arm yourself with a 50-centimeter metal ruler;
- check the belt for deflection.
The deflection of the belt transmitting the CM from the crank shaft to the crankshaft should be approximately 15 mm, taking into account the effect of a load of 10 kg per 1 cm of product length.
A narrow metal ruler is placed on top of the crank and generator pulleys. An impact is applied from above - a load of 10 kg/cm. Another ruler measures the deflection. There should be no discrepancies with the readings, otherwise the belt is not tensioned correctly.
Tension adjustment is carried out with keys, a pry bar and a ruler. The setup instructions assume the following:
- the fastening nuts located on the tension bar of the generating unit are loosened;
- The lower bolt securing the generator with the internal combustion engine is loosened.
Now the gene can be moved, thereby adjusting the belt tension until the values converge with the normalized ones.
If after these manipulations it was not possible to adjust the belt, then the problem is most likely in the belt itself. It is better to replace such a product.
The replacement itself must be carried out strictly according to the instructions. It is better to entrust the work to an experienced craftsman or to carry out the work yourself than to run into an amateur. Replacement errors can be costly!
A few important rules to follow during the replacement process:
- Before carrying out work, be sure to turn off the engine and disconnect the terminal from the battery;
- inspect and check the tensioner during replacement.
So, a bad belt and incorrect tension are the third main cause of breakage.
Other reasons
In addition to the main reasons, it is customary to take into account additional ones:
- The tensioner roller is another reason. For some reason, many people believe that it is eternal, but this is not so. If the roller fails, then expect problems, including a broken belt. After replacing the roller everything returns to normal.
- Another common case is when the fixation of the generator and power steering becomes loose. The fastening cracks due to something and the belts begin to tear. It could also be the gene bracket. It becomes crooked for some reason and problems arise.
- The reason is trivial - lack of generator protection. If it is not there, then everything that the headwind brings will begin to fly into the belt - stones, debris, branches.
- It often happens that a gene jams (on-board voltage drops) or a pump. You can check the gene lock using a voltmeter, and the pump lock - by testing the engine temperature readings.
- Automotive electrics are directly connected to the generator. Heater, headlights, emergency lights, multimedia system, wipers, etc. If the car owner does not treat the electrics with care (do not turn on several consumers at the same time), then under heavy load the gene will begin to rotate tightly, and the belt, accordingly, will turn.
If the alternator belt breaks, then the cause should definitely be determined. But how to do this if there are quite a lot of them. First of all, experts recommend looking at the wear side. Depending on whether the belt is worn on the side of the streams or the smooth plane, appropriate conclusions can be drawn. In other words, it is on this side that it rubs.
There are a lot of questions about the timing belt. The first most popular is - it’s torn, what to do, what the consequences may be. Where to run? Khan's engine? Mostly novice motorists write when the car gets stuck and doesn’t move anywhere. It is impossible to start it, and often this is not recommended at all in case of a break; in general, the driver panics. Today I will try to describe the action plan - both diagnosing and eliminating this malfunction. And you know, sometimes you can run into a decent repair! So read and delve into...
I hope there is no need to explain - what is a timing belt? Well, well - in short, it connects the engine shafts - the crankshaft and the camshaft in a certain sequence - so that when the pistons move up or down, only the necessary valves open or close. This creates the pressure inside the cylinders necessary to ignite the fuel mixture. Without a belt, the engine would not work - this is a fact, this is a very important link in the structure of the engine. Now let's talk about why there might be a break.
Why does the belt break?
1) Everything is banal and simple. The timing belt is a fairly strong “link” on foreign cars; it can last quite a long time, about 150,000 kilometers. However, everything has a limit! Over such a period of time it simply “wears out”, it becomes thinner and is no longer able to hold tension - that’s why it breaks. This is the most common reason - they simply did not replace it on time. It should be noted that on our VAZs, the belt runs much less, for example, from 30 to 50,000 kilometers. Personally, I had cases when it broke after 15,000 km. That is why the main complaints come from the owners of PRIOR, Kalin and other AvtoVAZ. If you bought our car, and even second-hand, then I advise you to replace the belt immediately! Otherwise there may be problems.
2) Another reason is the failure of the tension rollers. They are designed to tension the belt so that it does not slip or fly off the teeth. Essentially, rollers are bearings with a special layer on top, and as you and I know, bearings also have a service life. Towards the end of operation they begin to make noise and your engine begins to "". If you don’t change them, they will simply jam, which will literally erase the timing belt “canvas” in just hours.
3) Sometimes a break does not occur, but due to excessive wear, the rubber teeth that mesh with the shaft gears break. It’s also not very pleasant, you look - there is no break - but the car does not start, or it starts, but does not work correctly! The fact is that the ignition is faulty and needs replacement again.
4) On our cars, sometimes the pump jams. It can also wipe the timing belt, see the video below.
5) Well, the last reason is poor quality spare parts. This often happens, again with our VAZs. For example, you came to a service station, replaced the consumables, drove 5000 km, and it “BANG” and broke off. A “burnt part” is death for the engine, no matter what it is. So try to buy such components from trusted service stations, even if from an official dealer, they don’t skimp on the timing belt.
What will happen, what consequences await?
You know, sometimes you can get away with it, that is, without suffering any damage. Just install the new one, set up the car and that’s it – let’s move on! But sometimes you end up with very expensive repairs.
When the timing belt breaks, it is mainly the valves that suffer - if we “exaggerate the picture”, it turns out that the upper camshaft does not work due to a break, the valves are frozen in one position, but the crankshaft pushes the piston up - this is where the piston and valve meet , and the weak link suffers – very often.
Less often, but again it happens - the camshaft pastel breaks, or the upper part of the piston breaks.
This is a very unfavorable situation, at a minimum you need to change the valves, which means disassembling the engine - buying a new gasket, lapping the valves correctly, etc. ON some foreign cars, repairs reach 30,000 rubles. But if the pastel and pistons are damaged, then it’s even more expensive.
“But wait,” you say, what about “getting away with it”?
Yes, this also happens - many manufacturers make special recesses in the upper part of the piston. The bottom line is this: when a break occurs, the piston goes up - the valve is in place - but when the piston reaches the top point, it falls into the hole and no “jam” occurs. You just need to put on a new belt, set the marks and start the engine. ALL!
“Just wonderful,” you say. But why shouldn’t all manufacturers do this?
Again, it’s simple - if we exaggerate, the indentations do not have a particularly good effect on the compression of the fuel mixture, which means you will lose power, which all manufacturers are now fighting so hard for. That's why they install pistons with a straight top! Not very comfortable! BUT remember, manufacturers plan the service life of all parts, so if you are told to change the belt at 100,000 km, this means it will not break at 100,200 km, it will last for a long time, but why take such a risk? Change it as written - there will be no problems.
How to determine a break and what not to do
For an inexperienced motorist, identifying a break is not so easy. Your car will simply stall and will not start.
To begin with, I will say this - if the timing belt breaks, the car will not start under any pretext, because the compression is broken. Beginners often “turn” the engine until the battery is seated, but it does not start - this is not correct! You are only aggravating the situation - the piston, like an “anvil,” hits the already bent valve, and you add more. Should not be doing that!
The second sign is that the engine rotates too easily, if you can identify it, it feels like no one is holding the pistons - of course!
Well, and probably the last thing - open the hood and look at the timing system, if possible, sometimes it is closed, if you see pieces of the belt - urgently go to the service station. We call a tow truck.
In conclusion, I would like to add that the entire timing system needs to be changed, and this includes the rollers and tensioners as a complete set. Then the operation will be stable and safe - your engine will last for many years.
Now a short but useful video.
I hope you liked the article, read ours, it will be interesting.
Just 20 years ago, almost all cars had a timing chain drive. The use at that time caused confusion among many car enthusiasts. And no one could have thought that in a few years this particular design would be used on all modern cars. Manufacturers explain this by the fact that the belt, unlike the chain, is less noisy, has a simpler design and is lightweight. However, nothing lasts forever. What to do if the timing belt breaks? More about this and more in our article.
Differences from chain drive
During operation, the chain drive practically does not wear out. It lasts as long as the engine itself. Yes, it is noisier, sometimes it stretches, however, unlike a belt, it will never slip or break. should not be produced. In the case of a belt, it must be tightened periodically. And incorrect tension can cause misalignment of the teeth. Because of this, the motor will not work properly, and the life of the element will be significantly reduced.
Are the valves bent?
There is an opinion among motorists that if the Renault timing belt breaks, immediately Partly this is true. But not always. It all depends on the complexity of the engine design. If it is a “gear”, there will definitely be a bend in the valves.
Cars with 2 valves per cylinder (intake and exhaust, respectively) are considered more reliable in this regard. But again, there are exceptions (take, for example, the Soviet G8, 1.3-liter carburetor). In the case of a chain, things are much simpler. It starts to ring loudly. And this noise can continue for quite a long time - one, two, three thousand kilometers. Until the car owner gets tired of this sound and comes to the conclusion that something is wrong here. The chain, unlike the belt, is very “tenacious” in this regard.
What does this lead to?
If your timing belt breaks, the consequences can vary. As we said earlier, it all depends on the design of the power unit. Here you can be guided by the principle “the simpler the motor, the more reliable it is.” When the engine is in the TDC position, the valve does not reach the bottom of the piston, nothing will happen. In this case, if the timing belt breaks, only the purchase of a new product can be included in the expense item. All valves will remain intact without damage to the stem geometry.
But the belt does not always break so easily. If your car uses 2 intake and exhaust valves per cylinder (and this is most cars younger than 2000), there is a high probability that they will bend. The use of such a timing belt design is aimed at increasing power. However, if the timing belt breaks, the consequences will be very sad. In this case, the camshafts (of which there are two) stop in the position in which the breakdown occurred. The flywheel, spun by inertia, rotates the crankshaft, causing the rod to collide with the piston.
If the breakdown occurs at idle and in neutral, deformation of 2-3 elements will occur. If the timing belt (16 valves) breaks while driving (and at high speed, which happens in 90 percent of cases), it bends all elements without exception. In order to replace them, the cylinder head must be dismantled.
But even if several elements are bent, experts recommend replacing the entire valve assembly. Also, at speed, the guide bushings become deformed. As a result, replacement or expensive repair of the cylinder block will be required. If the speed and revolutions are too high, this will be enough to deform the piston in contact with the valve. There is no point in repairing it - only replacing it.
Which motors are the most unreliable when they break?
According to statistics, DOHC engines, as well as units from Japanese manufacturers (Nissan, Toyota, Subaru), are highly prone to deformation and damage. The simplest and therefore most reliable are eight-valve engines with a single camshaft (SOHC). Installed on Nexia, Lanos and Lacetti.
Diesel
No matter what horror stories are told about eight- and sixteen-valve gasoline engines, the most serious consequences still occur with diesel units.
Due to their more complex design, the valves have almost no travel in the TDC position. Therefore, if the timing belt of a diesel engine breaks, deformation of a number of components will occur. These are camshafts with bearings, connecting rods (as shown in the photo above) and tappets. The cylinder block must also be replaced.
Causes
There are many factors that cause a break:
- Contact of oils and dirt on the rubber coating. To prevent this from happening, this unit is carefully closed with a plastic case, which is secured with bolts on both sides. When an element breaks or is replaced, this casing is often deformed, which is why foreign objects can re-enter the surface of the mechanism.
- Natural wear and tear of the element or a manufacturing defect.
- pump, or in common parlance “pump”. It is closely interconnected with the operation of this mechanism.
- Wedge of tension roller, camshaft or crankshaft. It is very difficult to cause a breakdown of the latter two, which cannot be said about the pump or the roller.
Replacement
If the timing belt breaks (whether it’s a VAZ or a foreign car, it doesn’t matter), the first step is to install a new element. There are two reasons for the impending replacement:
- Natural wear and tear. Manufacturers recommend replacing the element at least once every 80 thousand kilometers. However, it is not uncommon for a belt to “nurse” for 150-200 thousand without deformation or whistling. But this does not mean that the replacement can be postponed indefinitely. This can lead to expensive repairs.
- Mechanical damage. The belt structure may be damaged due to gross errors during installation. This is a mismatch of marks, insufficient or excessive tension of the element. Also, the belt breaks (more often than not it simply falls off) during active driving “before the cut-off”, which is accompanied by sharp braking. If the car is “chipped” with a cutoff offset, there is a high probability of a belt break. Therefore, you should not often operate the car under heavy loads.
During long-term use, it is important to pay attention to the degree of tension of the element and, if necessary, tighten it. The presence of various tears and cracks on its surface is unacceptable. By the way, an under-tightened belt can fly off the marks. In this case, the spread between the point on the camshaft housing and its sprocket will be more than one centimeter.
Prevention
To prevent the timing belt (8 valves) from suddenly breaking, it is necessary to monitor its external condition and listen to the operation of the engine. If you have the slightest doubt, pay attention to
Remember that replacing a belt is much easier and cheaper than repairing an engine. If it makes characteristic squeaks or sags when the engine is turned off, this is the first sign indicating its replacement. Some drivers believe that it is “breaking in” like this. This is a lie - the belt should work properly from the first seconds of starting the engine. There is no need to tighten it often - the cord tends to stretch, thereby losing strength. Because of this, the belt bursts or falls off the marks. If there are frequent loosenings, most likely you have installed a defective part. To avoid shaft and pump wedges, do not overheat the engine and try not to use it in hard sports mode.
Cost of work
If the timing belt breaks (including 2112) without bending the valves, the cost of replacing it will be about 500 rubles. But if you have certain skills, you can do it yourself. Thus, the breakdown budget will be no more than a thousand rubles.
At the same time, it is recommended to check the condition of the pump impeller and tension roller - they should rotate smoothly, without sounds or play. If a wedge occurs and valves need to be replaced and the cylinder block repaired, the cost of the work can reach 40-50 thousand rubles. If it is an old foreign car, it is easier to install a contract engine from disassembly - in some cases it is actually cheaper than repairing the old one. Well, in order to prevent such a situation, monitor the tension of the element and its external condition, and most importantly, observe the replacement frequency of 60-80 thousand kilometers. Even if after this period the belt does not pose a danger (without deformations or extraneous sounds), it would not be superfluous to play it safe by installing a new element in its place.
So, we found out what to do if the timing belt breaks.
During everyday trips, drivers begin to forget about such things as checking oil, antifreeze and belts. The result is constant breakdowns. If we talk about belts, they simply break.
What function does the alternator belt play?
The newer the car, the more different electronics it contains. In older cars, the only electrical equipment was the ignition system and lighting. Nowadays, almost all elements and accessories in a car consume electricity. The biggest consumers are air conditioning, on-board computer, radio, alarm system. If many accessories are turned on, then the load on the network increases and more energy is consumed. They are all powered by a battery and a generator, which restores the battery charge. The generator is driven from the crankshaft using a belt.
Why does the belt break?
As practice shows, the belt breaks only due to severe wear. During engine operation, the belt experiences heavy loads. Despite the modern manufacturing technology of the accessory, cracks and abrasions may appear on it. It is also very common for the edges to become frayed and teeth to wear away.
If it so happens that you looked under the hood to check the condition of the belts and found at least one of the signs there, then you should think about replacing the belt. Soon he will make himself known. If there is something wrong with the belt, it may “whistle”. Also, a characteristic squeal can be heard in wet weather. Sometimes the whistle disappears, but this only means that the tension has weakened. You can tighten the belt tighter, but you shouldn't. Better to replace it. Replacing the alternator belt yourself is not a difficult task. But you can also contact the station.
If the belt breaks, do not panic. There is nothing critical about this. It’s just that now, while driving, the battery will not receive a charge, and all turned on systems will simply begin to “eat up” its energy.
What to do in such a situation?
If there is no spare belt, then you can resort to radical measures. You need to loosen the tensioner and install something else in place of the belt. For example:
- Tie.
- A belt made from pants (but it needs to be connected with wire staples).
- Nylon tights.
- Rope.
It is important that the replacement item is durable. If necessary, then you can fold the material in half. But it is worth saying that this is a RADICAL MEASURE. You can't move like this all the time.
The installation of the belt replacement is complete; now you need to tighten it. There is a special tensioner for this. Move the generator as far away from the cylinder block as possible. Next, use wrenches to tighten the nuts. Now you need to measure the amount of deflection. It should be no more than a centimeter.
This is where our inventions end. You can move out. The nearest service station should be enough. This design has been saving car owners in trouble for decades.
If a belt breaks on the road, this does not mean that you need to stop and panic. You can drive, but you won't get far. The car will work until the battery dies. Therefore, it is important to immediately go to the nearest service station for repairs.
What should you do to get to the station without a seat belt?
It is necessary to turn off all energy consumers: radio, stove, climate control, air conditioning and everything else. If the need arises, it is better not to turn off the car, because there is an additional load on the battery.
What are the consequences of driving without an alternator belt?
To be honest, nothing bad will happen. The engine and everything else will be intact. There is only one caveat - you will completely discharge the battery. In some cars, the alternator belt also drives the power steering pump. Therefore, if the belt breaks, the power steering stops working. This must be remembered when driving around turns and intersections. Be that as it may, the best solution is to immediately replace the belt with a spare one.
It’s not easy to say exactly how long a car can travel on battery power alone. Factors such as car make, battery capacity and battery charge level play a role. If time is running out, it is better to go to the nearest place where you can buy a belt. Many car enthusiasts will agree with me that in this case there should always be an old belt in the trunk. That is, after replacing it, it is better to throw it in the trunk. By installing such a belt, you can travel much further than with an elastic band from your panties. You only need to install a belt that matches the factory parameters. If the spare part is too long, then it will not be possible to tension it properly, and it will begin to slip in the grooves of the pulleys.
